The Green Traveller Digest Welcome to my latest round up of news, features and comments on green travel. This newsletter is written by me, Richard Hammond, the founder of Green Traveller. Please do forward this newsletter to anyone you think might be interested in receiving it or ask them to subscribe via the link on the button below: How bans on short-haul flights might transform rail travel in Europe Elissa Garay reports in Condé Nast Traveller on how a growing number of countries in the European Union have proposed bans on regional flights where a rail route exists and that the European Union "is aiming to double high-speed rail traffic by 2030". Still available at Easter: Family-friendly glampsite, Monmouthshire Family-owned Penhein Glamping, in South Wales, still has plenty of space over Easter for families. On a 450-acre farm, in the heart of the Monmouthshire hills, it's in a secluded woodland 850ft high – on a clear day you can see both Severn bridges, and beyond to Bristol. The site’s Persian high-domed tents each have their own toilet, kitchen, wood-burning stove and shower, and the owners have ensured sustainability runs right through the site’s day-to-day operations, from the local crafting of the tents to the spring-fed filtered water. Winner of the itravel Staycation Awards in 2019, the glampsite has added two more 'Alachigh' tents for 2022, and is now running a 'private lambing live' experience as well as the chance to go ‘tree foraging’ with Adele Nozedar, author of recently published book ‘The Tree Forager’. Introducing room2 – a net zero 'hometel' The website of a new hotel in London claims it is 'the world's first whole life net zero hometel'. In Chiswick, West London, room2 is forecast to use 89% less energy per m2 compared to a typical UK hotel, and a statement released by the hotel says that "both embodied and operational carbon have, and will be, rebalanced throughout the entire hometel’s lifecycle... All emissions associated with the hometel’s production and construction, materials used, operations, maintenance, refurbishment, and including the eventual clearance of the building will equal zero." "The pioneering new opening sets a new global industry standard for environmental responsibility in the fight against climate change and proves sustainability doesn’t mean sacrificing style, convenience or comfort." Margaret Hussey went along to the hotel to check it out, you can read her article in the Guardian. Sawday's sustainable stars Accommodation specialist Sawday's has created a collection of about 30 of its most eco-friendly listings - places "where you’ll meet owners who farm, build, grow, power and source with the utmost care for their impact on nature and their communities". These Sawday's Sustainable stars include one of my favourite places to stay, Hôtel les Orangeries in Lussac les Châteaux, France. Other picks range from Quinta da Cancela in Northern Portugal, to Red Kite Barn, in Powys. James McVey to support 30 Days Wild The Wildlife Trusts have announced that The Vamps' guitarist, James McVey, will be supporting this year's 30 Days Wild programme. Every year The Wildlife Trusts invite people to do one wild act every single day during the month of June, with the aim of bringing people closer to nature. Last year a record 760,000 took part (two million people have participated since 30 Days Wild began in 2015) completing over 16 million "acts of wildness" between them. According to the organisation, the most popular activities were wildlife-watching, eating outdoors, planting wildflower seeds and listening to birdsong. Most participants said their favourite activities were those that directly helped nature, or those that expanded their knowledge of the natural world. Natural England issues new Countryside Code for land managers The Guardian reports that the government conservation agency Natural England, in partnership with Natural Resources Wales, has issued new advice for farmers designed "to help the public enjoy the countryside responsibly" while protecting livestock and maintaining the usability of rights of way. The new guidance advises farmers and land managers on how to make land more accessible - for example by adding self-closing gates instead of stiles where possible and using better signage - and how to correctly report anti-social behaviour, fly-tipping, littering, livestock worrying and other offences. Town centre to be pedestrianised on 'Green Breather Days' The Frome Times reports that Frome Town Council is proposing to pedestrianise the centre of the town once a month between May and September, "to cut air pollution and use the town centre in innovative ways to encourage people to explore it". The selected days, proposed to be over a series of five Saturdays, will be known as Green Breather Days. How green are electric cars? Automotive classified advertising business, Autotrader has compiled an in-depth article about the impact and sustainability of electric vehicles (EVs). This, it says, will help the public "better understand the key challenges and impact of the shift towards driving electric". The piece includes a few interesting facts and figures such as: 57% of consumers are willing to change their purchasing habits to help the environment Shifting to electric reduces a vehicle's overall lifetime Greenhouse Gas (GHG) footprint by as much as 37% A survey of 18,000 drivers found that 47% are considering an electric vehicle for their next car Bordeaux & Valencia awarded European Capitals of Smart Tourism The French city of Bordeaux and the Spanish city of Valencia have launched their joint year as European Capitals of Smart Tourism after being awarded the title towards the end of last year. The European Commission initiative aims to recognise the excellence of tourism destinations in "accessibility, sustainability, digitalisation, and cultural heritage & creativity". Bordeaux and Valencia impressed the jury "with the outstanding programmes of activities they intend to execute during 2022, as well as their notable capacity to act as a role model for other cities". Valencia’s Mayor Joan Ribó said: "Six years ago we decided to change the city's tourism model and transform it into a sustainable, integrated, competitive model that respects its citizens and its natural and cultural heritage". Examples of the types of initiatives the cities are implementing include the Bordeaux Tourist Office creating a special guide for visitors with reduced mobility, and Valencia working to measure and certify the carbon footprint of its tourism activity. How to find hidden train journeys to ski resorts Have you ever tried to book train travel between the UK and the Alps and not been able to find the journey you were looking for? Daniel Elkan, founder of ski train website Snowcarbon, has produced a video showing how to deal with the complexities of booking rail holidays to the slopes, in particular how to find rail routes that might not show up in search results. Daniel explains that train booking websites "don’t hide journeys on purpose... It’s just the result of a system that doesn’t always work well." In his 12-minute video (below), he provides a step-by-step guide to researching two sample journeys – London to Oulx (at 0:55 into the video) and London to Bourg St Maurice (at 6:40), so that you can see how to find hidden journeys yourself all over Europe, and he recommends several rail booking agents that you can book through. This Week Bad news for... The koala, which the Guardian reports has been listed as endangered following a decline in numbers resulting from shrinking of its habitats due to land clearing and bushfires. Good news for... The staycation boom in Wales, which tourism bosses say is likely to continue, despite the easing of pandemic restrictions, according to a report by the BBC. My Tip of the Week Check whether the train you or your friends are on (or hoping to catch) is running to schedule with this handy real-time map of Great Britain's rail network. And finally: I've written a book! The Green Traveller It's a book about low carbon travel and eco holidays in the UK, Europe and beyond. Whether you want to holiday in an off-grid glampsite, see conservation in action, or you’re trying to decide whether to travel by train or ferry to Europe, it’s packed with tips and suggestions for how and where to go green. Published by Pavilion Books on 5th May, I'll be writing more about it nearer the time, but if you want to be one of the first to get your hands on a copy, you can pre-order a copy now.

The Green Traveller Digest Welcome to my latest round up of news, features and comments on green travel. This newsletter is written by me, Richard Hammond, the founder of Green Traveller. Please do forward this newsletter to anyone you think might be interested in receiving it or ask them to subscribe via the link on the button below: Call for 20,000 volunteers to create artworks in UK landscapes A call has gone out for 20,000 volunteers to create large-scale outdoor artworks in some of the most iconic landscapes in the UK. The ambitious initiative is part of a Green Space Dark Skies project, which aims to create the artworks from April to September 2022 in 20 of the UK’s National Parks and Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONBs) in England, Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland. The gatherings will be created at dusk by participants, referred to as 'Lumenators'. They will be guided along pathways or waterways carrying smart lights (specially developed for this project by Siemens) that will enable digital choreography to be captured on film (while also being sensitive to the night-time environment). Each short film will incorporate the stories of the people and places featured and will be broadcast online after the event. The first gathering will be created in the Peak District National Park on 23 April. Other locations for the artworks include Dartmoor National Park, North York Moors National Park, The Chilterns AONB, Lagan Valley AONB; Sperrin AONB, Causeway Coast AONB, Cairngorms National Park, Gower AONB, Brecon Beacons National Park, and Anglesey AONB. The organisers say that Green Space Dark Skies "will be a carbon net-positive project combining exemplar low-emissions production with climate investments." Green light for Eden Project North Councillors in Lancashire have granted planning permission for a new £125m ticketed visitor attraction in Morecambe known as 'Eden Project North'. The Lancashire Post reports that securing funding from central government is now the major focus of the Eden team after the plans for the tourist attraction were given the go-ahead by Lancaster City Council. The report says that Eden has asked for a £70m public investment in the £125m project and that this investment "would be paid back many times over in economic benefit for the region". Eden Project North says it would directly employ more than 400 people, with an additional 1,500 jobs supported in the region, and inject £200m per year into the North West economy. Subject to funding being secured, it is due to open in 2024. The website of the Eden Project lists several other 'new Edens', including Eden Project Foyle – a new riverside cultural and environmental attraction in Derry-Londonderry in North Ireland, as well as other 'Eden Projects' in Scotland, Australia, Costa Rica, New Zealand, USA, and China. National Trust plans 20 'green corridors' connecting city centres to countryside Steven Morris, writing in the Guardian, reports on the National Trust's plan to establish a three-mile ‘green corridor’ that will link the historic city centre of Bath with the surrounding countryside. The initiative is the first of 20 proposed projects that the National Trust is planning in England, Wales and Northern Ireland by 2030, knitting together patches of green space to create accessible "green corridors" to rural areas. Paris plans to be "completely cyclable" by 2026 Visitors to Paris will soon be able to cycle around the entire city according to The World Economic Forum, which reports that France is investing 250 million Euros to make the French capital entirely bikeable, adding an additional 130 km (80 miles) of cycle pathways by 2026. The Return of Direct Rail Services to the French Alps After a six-week delay to the launch of the inaugural Travelski Express train service from London to the French Alps (delayed because of the pandemic), the service finally got underway on 29th January. Iain Martin from Ski Flight Free went along to try it out. Eurostar ticket sale Eurostar is offering a week-long seat sale until 8th February with seats from £35 (39€) one way for travel between 21st February and 19th May 2022. The operator says it is providing 48,000 tickets on offer for travel between London and Lille, Paris and Brussels, and has ramped up its timetable during the promotion period with up to nine daily returns between London and Paris and five daily returns between London and Lille and London and Brussels. NB. All Eurostar tickets – including sale fares – are flexible, with no exchange fee up to 7 days before departure. Changes to Highway Code for safety of walkers, cyclists and horse-riders Nicholas Hellen reports in The Times on the changes that have been introduced to the Highway Code to improve the safety of people walking, cycling and riding horses. Among the updated guidance includes encouraging cyclists to ride "in the centre of their lane on quiet roads, in slower-moving traffic and at the approach to junctions or road narrowings" and keeping "at least 0.5 metres (just over 1.5 feet) away from the kerb edge (and further where it is safer) when riding on busy roads with vehicles moving faster than them". The guidance also asks motorists to leave "at least 1.5 metres (5 feet) when overtaking people cycling at speeds of up to 30mph, and giving them more space when overtaking at higher speeds". Hybrid boats to revolutionise sustainable river travel Uber Boat by Thames Clippers says it is building the UK’s first hybrid high speed passenger ferries, set to launch in autumn 2022 and spring 2023. The two new vessels, which are being built at Wight Shipyard on the Isle of Wight, will operate solely on battery power while transporting commuters and sightseers through the Capital – throughout the Central Zone, between Tower and Battersea Power Station piers – and recharge while using biofuelled power outside of central London. The company says the technology is not reliant on shore-based charging; the new boats will use excess power from the biofuelled engines to re-charge their batteries for the central London stretch. Electric flying taxis The Economist has published a future-gazing podcast examining a range of scenarios about the emerging technologies to watch in 2022, including the rise of interest in electric flying taxis and considering whether they are close to lift off. Ca’ di Dio joins the 'Considerate Collection' Ca’ di Dio, a new Venetian house in the VRetreats collection, has been announced as one of the seven hotels to become part of the ‘Considerate Collection’ of Small Luxury Hotels of the World. Other hotels in the collection include a "biodiversity-promoting rainforest lodge" in Costa Rica and a "culture-preserving Provençal château". SLH says the hotels are often repurposed or renovated properties - reinvigorated and revived - rather than large scale new-builds and that "people are the heart of our hotels". It says that the criteria for becoming part of the Considerate Collection is that they are aligned with the UN’s Sustainability Development Goals (SDGs) as well as Global Sustainable Tourism Council (GSTC) framework. Each property has either achieved a GSTC recognised certification or passed an assessment by the SLH Sustainability Advisory Panel, with independent and impartial review by the GSTC. It says "They’ve been visited, vetted, and verified against these criteria and many other SLH quality measures." Ten startups shaping the mobility sector EU-Startups reports that 2021 saw a "breaking record for investment in European mobility startups" and provides a look at some of the most promising, including Dance - a Berlin-based startup that runs an e-bike subscription service, Zeelo – a London-based startup that has developed "an innovative staff commuting platform offering electric commuter bus services for people living in rural areas or in ‘public transport deserts", and Voi (which I reported on in last week's newsletter), which it says "has set an ambition to take one billion car trips off Europe’s and UK’s roads by 2030". Coventry to become first city to host all-electric buses Next time you visit the West Midlands, keep an eye out for all-electric buses that are soon to be commonplace across Coventry. Zap Map, the digital platform for EV drivers, reports that Coventry is on track to become the UK's first all-electric bus city. It says that early next year, 130 zero-emission double decker buses will be introduced to National Express Coventry’s fleet as part of a £140 million project "in order to improve air quality and reduce carbon emissions in the city." Citizen Science - The Big Garden Birdwatch The final date for reporting your results for the RSPB's Big Garden Birdwatch is 20 February, so there's still time to tell them what you saw. The information gives the organisation a valuable snapshot of how birds in the UK are faring – even if you saw nothing it counts! Solar-powered camper van The World Economic Forum reports on students in the Netherlands who have built a solar-powered camper van, designed for two people (with a kitchen, bed, shower and toilet), which can drive up to 740km on a sunny day reaching speeds of up to 120 km per hour. The students drove 3,000km to southern Spain to demonstrate the solar energy's potential. Off-grid supper club in Hay on Wye The innovative Off Grid Gourmet supper club that's powered by solar, wind and wood is up and running again in its beautiful rural setting just outside Hay on Wye. It's currently taking bookings, including a feast during Hay Festival, for parties from 1 to 20. In praise of wetlands This week the world has been celebrating the world's wetlands for World Wetlands Day (Weds 2 Feb). From saltmarsh to streams, peat bogs to ponds, wetlands are hotspots for biodiversity and help sustain all life on the planet. The Wildfowl & Wetlands Trust (whose 75th birthday was last year) manage ten wetlands in the UK, including the London Wetland Centre, Steart Marches and one of my favourites - Arundel Wetland Centre in West Sussex. Further afield, here's a feature Catherine Mack wrote for RailEurope on Nine wetlands in Europe reachable by train. And finally: How to change railway stations in Paris One for Valentines: Ireland's most romantic green hotel and How to reach Ireland without flying

The Rooms: Set on the Trelowarren estate, which is made up of 1000 acres of woodland, there are 18 different cottages with planning permission for a further 32. From 17th century thatched cottages renovated with a careful eye for eco-design, to timber-framed new builds made from local and sustainable materials, all of them are carefully spaced out so you never feel crowded. Most impressive is a vast woodchip boiler which provides hot water and heating for the entire estate, including an all-year-round, chlorine-free swimming pool. Inside my cottage – Tregenna - it was easily as plush a top hotel, but care had been taken to consider the environmental implications of everything, from the water, which comes from the estate’s borehole and appears from aerated taps to ensure that less is used, to the organic linen and green cleaning products. The Food: At the heart of the estate is the award-winning New Yard restaurant that sources 90 per cent of its ingredients from a ten mile radius. Try clams from Helford River, local fish and game, and fruit and vegetables from the estate. There’s also a farm shop promoting local goods, as well as a community food scheme, enabling guests to choose from a wide-range of local produce, which will be waiting for you in your fridge when you arrive. The Activities: You are spoilt for choice with all the beaches, walks and cycling routes. The Lizard Peninsula is a dream for anyone who enjoys being outdoors. I must admit, I barely left the estate, so much did I enjoy walking in the grounds, through orchards, walled gardens and organic vegetable patches, but I would have liked to do some sailing if I'd stayed longer. There’s also an all-weather tennis court, a swimming pool and plans for a sauna and Jacuzzi. The Green: Sir Ferrers Vyvyan has established a green holiday model that manages to be both luxurious and eco-friendly. The concept, which he calls “eco-timeshare”, is a reminder that buying a stake in a holiday home is a socially responsible thing to do. What’s greener than sharing a home with other owners? Especially in a part of the UK that suffers from second-home syndrome, where nearby villages have declined to the point that only a handful of residents live there full-time, and where there are disappearing local shops and services. It also means that properties are occupied for most of the year helping to sustain businesses in the region without pushing up property prices. The other green triumph is the woodchip boiler, fuelled by waste wood from a local sawmill as well as trees from the estate. It is one of the biggest pieces of biomass technology in the South West, contributing to an estimated 240 tonnes of CO2 that the estate saves by employing green technology. There’s also endless little eco touches in the cottages, from natural wool insulation to low energy lights. Top tip: The beaches are among the best in the UK, see here for a list of nearby coves: www.trelowarren.com. And don’t leave without trying the home-made ice cream at the restaurant. Verdict: So long as you can manage the journey down there, Trelowarren is an ideal spot for those who don’t want to compromise on luxury. The accommodation and grounds are gorgeous - I'm sure that being able to build up a long-term relationship with the place would be deeply rewarding. It’s fantastic for families, too, as children can explore the woods and run wild together, while their parents relax by the pool. --- Getting there: By Train: the nearest station is Falmouth train station from where you'll need to take a taxi to get to Trelowarren. The station doesn't have either a taxi rank nor a cab office so advance booking is essential. Taxi hire firms include: Victor: 01326 312887; Abacus: 01326 212141; Donalds: 01326 313123. By Car: From Falmouth take the A394 to Helston, follow signs to Culdrose, after Culdrose turn left at the roundabout. Follow signs to Garras, turn right at the Mawgan memorial and left almost immediately after Garras School. By car approx 40mins.

The Green Traveller Digest My digest of green travel in the news Green travel is all over the news! Receive our free digest of all the latest news in your inbox sign up here >> Some English cities could be given national park status The Guardian reports that Government body Natural England is considering giving some English cities national park status under new proposals in response to the Glover report on protected landscapes. The Independent to focus on sustainable travel The Independent has announced that it will be putting sustainability at the forefront of its coverage. The newspaper’s new travel editor, Helen Coffey, describes why it is pledging to do things differently. Readers may also be interested to read the Guardian’s Head of Travel article that he wrote in 2019 about the Guardian's climate pledge. In case you missed it: In the previous issue of The Green Traveller Digest, we reported that The Times has launched a new ‘Green Travel’ section, saying: "Consumer, industry and media sentiment finally seem aligned on the urgent need to prioritise sustainability... Here at Times Travel, we pledge to keep green travel at the very top of our agenda". Blue Earth Summit Inland surf centre The Wave in Bristol is to host the inaugural Blue Earth Summit, 13-14 October, a two-day live event “for thinkers, explorers, and storytellers with a shared mission to make a positive change and act in the interests of the environment”. E10 petrol A "more eco-friendly petrol" – the E10 - is being introduced to filling stations in UK, according to the BBC. It reports The Department for Transport (DfT) says “it could cut carbon emissions by 750,000 tonnes a year”. Drivers can check whether their car will run on E10 on DfT’s site: Check if your vehicle can run on E10 petrol. Slow Travel in North Wales The Guardian has written about a slow travel break to North Wales organised by the new low carbon specialist travel agent Byway. Opportunities for women in travel The FT has written about a gastronomical tour of west London organised by Intrepid Urban Adventures whose new partnership is creating opportunities for women in the travel industry: Postcard from Shepherd’s Bush — a taste of Ethiopia Venice set to charge tourists for entry Bloomberg reports on an article in the newspaper Stamp that Venice is set to charge tourists for entry from next summer. According to the newspaper, visitors will have to reserve access in advance. Electric passenger planes RNZ reports that electric passenger planes are set to fly in New Zealand within five years. Only small cuts in flying needed to tackle climate change, says think tank The Times’ Environment Editor Ben Webster reports on a findings by Tony Blair’s think tank the Blair Institute for Global Change, which says that only small cuts in flying and driving are needed to tackle climate change Tusk Lion Trail Life-sized lion sculptures, designed and made by some of the planet’s foremost artists, musicians, and sportspeople, have been installed on the streets of London, Bristol and Edinburgh to highlight the threats currently faced by ‘the King of Beasts’, and to raise funds to support community conservation and livelihoods impacted by Covid-19 across Africa. See: Tusk Lion Trail Funding provided to decarbonise transport Smart Transport reports on the news that four projects “aiming to find solutions to decarbonise commercial transport and tackle electric vehicle (EV) range anxiety” have been given a share of £91.7million from Government and industry. A bus odyssey across the UK The BBC reports on a bus trip made by a civil servant from Ealing who wanted to see how far he could travel from London in one day using only public bus routes (he got as far as Morecambe). The trip has had a lot of attention on social media with lots of people sharing their own favourite bus journeys – see the Twitter account of @politic_animal Cycling the Swiss Alps by electric bike The Guardian has published an article by Alf Alderson about what it’s like cycling the Haute Route - a week-long, 250 kilometre from Chamonix to Zermatt on an electric bike. Taking bikes on trains in Scotland Scotrail has announced it is working with Transport Scotland “to bring the UK’s first active travel carriages to Scotland’s west coast”. The carriages are being specially designed to take bikes, skies and other sporting gear. Read more about Class 153. Hydrogen buses in Liverpool Smart Cities World reports that the Liverpool City Region Combined Authority has placed an order for 20 zero-emission hydrogen double-decked buses. Seaside heritage sites given listed status Six heritage sites in England have been Grade II listed status by Historic England. The sites are Blackpool’s seafront promenade shelters as well as the city’s Middle and Lower Walk Colonnades, a boathouse in Devon, Hythe Pier in Hampshire, Skegness town Hall, the Crow Stone in Leigh-on-Sea, Southend. Utrecht – the cycling city The Times reports on how the Dutch city of Utrecht “became the world’s best city for cycling” thanks to urban planners combining “flat streets with creative thinking”.

The Green Traveller Digest My digest of green travel in the news compiled by Richard Hammond Green travel is all over the news! Receive our free digest of all the latest news in your inbox sign up here >> Launch of new overnight train from Paris to Vienna A new overnight train sleeper service has launched from Paris to Vienna. The Paris Nightjet sleeper train departs from Gare de l'Est - just a 5-10 minute (500m) walk from where the Eurostar arrives in at Gare de Nord (see our handy guide to how to transfer across stations in Paris that provides step-by-step instructions for how to transfer from Gare du Nord to Gare de l'Est). The sleeper train leaves Paris Gare de l'Est just before 8pm three times a week (Tuesday, Friday and Sunday), arriving at Vienna Hbf at just after 10am the following morning, how civilised! You can use this service to go by train from London all the way to Vienna with one easy change in Paris. The Nightjet train service is operated by ÖBB (Austrian Railways), which has recently ordered a fleet of new Nightjets that it says are on track for departing in Spring 2023, here's a glimpse of what they'll look like: World’s first UNESCO trail launched in Scotland The world’s first ever UNESCO trail, bringing together some of Scotland’s most iconic, diverse and culturally significant sites, has launched. Scotland’s UNESCO Trail brings the country’s 13 place-based UNESCO designations, including World Heritage Sites, Biospheres, Global Geoparks and Creative Cities together to form a dedicated digital trail that aims to take visitors "on a cultural journey across the country experiencing everything from history to science, music, design and literature to nature and cityscapes". According to a release from Visit Scotland, the initiative is designed "specifically to support ambitions to make Scotland a world-leading responsible tourism destination" encouraging visitors to "stay longer, visit all year round, make sustainable travel choices, explore more widely and at the right time of the year, and in turn, contribute to the sustainable quality of life of those communities surrounding the designated sites". The full list of designations included in Scotland’s UNESCO Trail are: The Galloway & Southern Ayrshire UNESCO Biosphere, Wester Ross UNESCO Biosphere Dundee UNESCO City of Design Edinburgh UNESCO City of Literature Glasgow UNESCO City of Music Shetland UNESCO Global Geopark North West Highlands UNESCO Global Geopark Forth Bridge UNESCO World Heritage Site Frontiers of the Roman Empire: Antonine Wall UNESCO World Heritage Site New Lanark UNESCO World Heritage Site Heart of Neolithic Orkney UNESCO World Heritage Site Old and New Towns of Edinburgh UNESCO World Heritage Site St Kilda World Heritage Site. Electric vehicles take nearly 20% of UK new car market in November According to the latest data from the Society of Motor Manufacturers and Traders, battery electric vehicles (BEVs) took 18.8% market share for UK new car registrations in November, according to an article in Smart Transport, which reports that almost 22,000 BEVs were sold last month in the UK, more than double compared with November 2020 – while plug-in hybrid vehicles’ (PHEVs) share grew to 9.3% or 10,796 units. The Copenhagen neighbourhood that's leading the way for sustainable cities Shilpa Ganatra writes in the Independent about the Nordhavn district, 20 minutes from central Copenhagen that's positioning itself as a "model sustainable community". Waterside Wanderer Ticket South Western Railway and the Three Rivers Community Rail Partnership, in partnership with other local public transport providers, have launched a new ticketing product that is set to make integrated travel in Hampshire much simpler and easier. The new one day integrated travel ticket in the Southampton area, covering rail, bus and ferry services, known as the Waterside Wanderer, costs just £13.50 and allows customers to access areas from Winchester to the New Forest. Launch of the Glasgow Declaration The World Tourism Organisation (UNWTO) launched the Glasgow Declaration at COP 26. The declaration aims to defines a clear and consistent sector-wide approach to climate action in the coming decade: "The Glasgow Declaration is a catalyst for increased urgency about the need to accelerate climate action in tourism and to secure strong actions and commitment to support the global goals to halve emissions over the next decade and reach Net Zero emissions as soon as possible before 2050". Green Traveller was one of the launch partners of the Declaration and we produced this video for UNWTO for the launch: Birdfair cancelled Leicestershire and Rutland Wildlife Trust has announce that it will no longer run the annual Rutland Water Birdfair. Working with co-promoter, the RSPB, the Trust has run the popular event for over 30 years, raising millions for overseas projects run via the Birdlife International group of charities, but it cited the climate crisis as a key factor in its decision to stop running the event. In a statement released by the organisation, it said: "the current format of Birdfair is heavily influenced by travel and tourism with exhibitors travelling from 80 different countries to attend. The carbon footprint generated both by the event itself and the activities it promotes does not now fit well with our own strategy towards tackling the climate crisis". The global pandemic was also cited as another key factor. Jamie Perry, Head of Engagement for LRWT, explained: “The global pandemic has had a significant effect on our day-to-day operations as a charity. Like many other similar institutions, we have seen income streams lost or reduced, with a resultant impact on our financial reserves and thus the delivery of our charitable work. Birdfair operations have contributed to these financial concerns.” “Birdfair proceeds have always been donated in full to Birdlife International. LRWT has never received any part of this, but we have nevertheless borne 100% of the risks and liabilities, and have supplied the staff and volunteer effort of running the event. This is a significant burden for any organisation, let alone a small, local charity such as ourselves.” He continued: “We must now turn all of our attention and efforts to our core mission of saving, restoring and connecting people with wildlife and habitats across Leicestershire and Rutland with the aim of aiding nature’s recovery.” Airbnb publishes host's guide to sustainable tourism Accommodation online marketplace Airbnb has published a Host's guide to supporting sustainable tourism, which it says it has compiled from its global community of Hosts, and by working the United Nations Environment Programme and World Wildlife Fund. The guide includes tips on helping guests find their way with public transport and informing guests about local environmental issues. Airbnb has also partnered with green energy supplier OVO to help hosts power their homes with renewable energy and has announced 'off the grid' as one of four new categories of homes; the others are: 'offbeat', 'luxe' and 'skin-in/ski-out'. Tips for businesses on how to go green The National Coastal Tourism Academy has produced a guide for businesses on how to go green offering "the first steps on your road to green recovery". A recent consumer survey by NCTA showed that 86% said reducing their carbon footprint or making more sustainable choices on holiday was very (34%) or somewhat (52%) important to them. Community Rail Awards Community rail initiatives, delivered by community groups, partnerships and volunteers across Britain – supporting social inclusion, sustainable travel, empowered communities and economic recovery – have been celebrated at the 17th Community Rail Awards. The Outstanding Contribution to Community Rail Award was jointly awarded to Southeast Communities Rail Partnership (which coordinates activity on eight rail lines across Sussex, Kent, Surrey, and Berkshire, including education and sustainable travel programmes reaching thousands of children, helping adults with additional needs to build rail confidence, and promoting green leisure travel) and Friends of Buxton Station (a volunteer group that has cemented its place at the heart of its community during the pandemic via hugely varied initiatives from arts projects at the station and run digitally, to raising awareness about biodiversity, to improving integrated transport, to supporting local businesses). How flying went from luxury aspiration to a contested practice Sara Ullstrom's PhD looks at how holiday flying in Sweden since the 1950s has shifted from luxury aspiration to a normal mode of transport to a "contested practice". And finally... On board the Climate Train to COP 26 in Glasgow, I filmed this short video about the activists of Youth for Sustainable Travel (Rail to the Cop) determined to hold politicians to account:

The Green Traveller Digest My digest of green travel in the news compiled by Richard Hammond Green travel is all over the news! Receive our free digest of all the latest news in your inbox sign up here >> Google to label hotels as “Eco-Certified” in global search results Google has launched an 'Eco-Certified' badge for hotels that now shows in its search results. Hotels certified for meeting "high standards of sustainability" from a range of certification schemes, such as Green Key and EarthCheck, will have an eco-certified badge next to their name. In addition, when you click on the “About” tab on a hotel's listing, you'll now see a list of what they’re doing regarding sustainability, from waste reduction efforts to energy efficiency and water conservation. Hotel owners can add their eco credentials via their Business Profile on Google My Business facility. Google has also announced it is joining the Travalyst coalition, headed up by CEO Sally Davey. As part of this group, Google says it will help develop a standardised way to calculate carbon emissions for air travel to "provide an industry framework to estimate emissions for a given flight and share that information with potential travelers". Read more: Building a sustainable future for travel Introducing the Glasgow Declaration The World Tourism Organisation (UNWTO) has held two introductory sessions about the Glasgow Declaration. The declaration aims to defines a clear and consistent sector-wide approach to climate action in the coming decade. The official launch of the Glasgow Declaration on Tourism and Climate will take place at COP26 this November. EasyJet calls for co-ordinated action over zero-emission flying Phil Davies writing in the travel trade newspaper Travel Weekly, reports on a speech given by Easyjet boss Johan Lundgren at an Airbus summit at its Toulouse base. He said co-ordinated action was necessary to bring about the vision of zero-emission flying, calling on the aviation industry and governments to work closely together to deliver the technology needed to transform the industry over the coming decade and beyond. Boost to high speed rail in France as Macron hails ‘decade of the TGV’ The International Railway Gazette reports on a speech given by Emmanuel Macron at Paris Gare de Lyon (during an event held on September 17 to mark 40 years since the launch of TGV services), in which the French President announced the revival of plans to expand the high speed network, describing the 2020s as ‘the decade of the TGV’. Eurostar to restore second London-Amsterdam service Business Traveller reports that Eurostar is poised to restore a second London-Amsterdam train service boosting the minimal schedule is has been running on this route for almost a year (since winter 2020 there has been just one through train a day to Amsterdam). The report says that a second direct train will commence on 25 October, which will operate daily except Sunday. David Attenborough's epiphany on climate change In a week when Boris Johnson admitted that he used to be a climate sceptic, readers may be interested to read about the 2004 lecture that finally convinced David Attenborough about global warming - in this article by Carbon Brief Attenborough's "epiphany on climate change" is traced back to a lecture he attended by the late American scientist Ralph Cicerone in Liege. Coal, Cars, Cash and Trees, the focus says Johnson The BBC reports that Boris Johnson has said that Coal, Cars, Cash and Trees should be the focus for climate change commitments. ‘Amazon of Europe’ is first UNESCO biosphere to cover five nations Euronews reports that UNESCO has designated a new biosphere reserve – dubbed the 'Amazon of Europe' – that spans across five different European countries: Austria, Slovenia, Croatia, Hungary and Serbia. All aboard The Travelski Express train Direct rail based ski holiday packages from Travelski that I reported on in the previous Green Traveller Digest are now on sale. The trains will leave St Pancras on Friday evenings arriving into Moutiers and then Bourg St Maurice the following morning. Transfers will then be waiting at the stations to take guests direct to their accommodation in Tignes, Les Arcs, La Plagne, Meribel, Les Menuires or Val d’Isere. Seven-day lift passes are also included in the package to enable skiers to get on the slopes on arrival day. CEO of Travelski, Guillaume de Marcillac said: “As well as being environmentally advantageous, the direct train is easy, comfortable and delivers you to the heart of the mountains with minimal fuss. The holiday begins as soon as you get on the train in London and when you arrive in Bourg or Moutiers you are already surrounded by the mountains.” Prince Charles launches TV channel about the climate crisis The Independent reports that The Prince of Wales has launched a television channel on Amazon Prime that is dedicated to promoting programmes about the climate crisis. Going green in Denmark The i newspaper says that Denmark's sustainability credentials make it an ideal green-list city break. And finally... We need to talk about aviation Campaigning organisation Flight Free has published a guide to how to have climate change conversations. Its guide to 'how to talk about aviation' is available to download here: We need to talk about climate change

Shell has opened its first solely electric vehicle charging station in the UK. The petrol and diesel pumps at the existing fuel station in Fulham, London have been replaced with ultra-rapid electric charge points. A global pilot, this is the first time the company has converted one of its existing sites to cater solely for electric vehicles. The station features nine high-powered, ultra-rapid 175kW charge points which Shell says can charge most vehicles from 0-80% within 10 minutes – three times faster than more widely used 50kW rapid chargers. The station has a timber canopy with built-in solar panels, a seating area, free Wi-Fi, a Costa Coffee cafe and a Little Waitrose & Partners. Shell has previously stated an ambition to install 50,000 on-street chargers in the UK by 2025 through Shell-owned company ubitricity, and in July 2021 announced that up to 800 Shell electric vehicle charging points would be installed in as many as 100 Waitrose sites across the UK by 2025. Commenting on the new site, István Kapitány, Shell’s Global Executive Vice President for Mobility said, “EV drivers are looking for a charging experience that is as fast, convenient and comfortable as possible. This is exactly what Shell Fulham aims to offer. It joins our growing network of Shell Recharge sites at forecourts and other locations, our ubitricity on-street charging network, and our Shell Recharge Solutions for homes and businesses as we increasingly help EV drivers to charge wherever they need it. It also gives us all a glimpse into the future of mobility.”

In producing our Green Travel Guides, we've produced over 100 short films about green tourism businesses, from B&Bs to self-catering cottages and hotels, tourist information centres and visitor attractions, pubs, cafes, and activity providers, such as walking & cycling operators. Here's a short video explaining why video is such a good tool to get across the green ethos of an accommodation and bring sustainability alive: In our green travel videos, we ask the owners to tell their stories of how they came to run their businesses. The videos provide the owners with the opportunity to share their knowledge of their local landscapes providing guests with a genuine sense of place. Owners can show off what it is that attracts customers to their locality. The owners can also demonstrate their efforts to reduce their impact on the environment, enhance biodiversity, support their local economy, and encourage guests to arrive by sustainable transport, such as by bus or on foot or by electric car. Videos are also a great way to drive online enquiries and bookings as they're a great way to show potential customers what the business is all about. Best of all, the videos show how green experiences can make for better experiences. Below are some sample videos of specific green tourism businesses:

Green Traveller's Lucy Symons visits The Balebarn at Wheatland Farm and is charmed by creative up-cycling, the gorgeous Devon countryside, impressive sustainability and the joys of electric bikes. In a nutshell: Four lodges and cottage on nature reserve in beautiful central Devon, within easy reach of the Tarka Trail, the Granite Way, Dartmoor, and North Devon's beaches. Rooms: 4 lodges (sleep 8,6,4,4); 1 cottage (sleeps 4) Price: From £160-£722/week. Shorter stays possible on request Meals: Self-catering. Farm shop 0.5 mile, pub 1.5 mile Open: year round Facilities: Babies & Children welcome Good for Green: Walkers welcome; Cyclists welcome; Electric bikes; Reachable by both train and bus; Natural Swimming Pool; Electric Car Charger ======= Our Review of Wheatland Farm: The Setting: Wheatland Farm is just outside Winkleigh right in the heart of Devon. Half of the land of the farm is set aside as a conservation reserve. Owner Maggie, a PhD ecologist and science communicator, has always been passionate about conservation and being able to cultivate her own little corner of nature, Popehouse Moor (officially designated a Site of Specific Scientific Interest), is her idea of heaven. The farm has a fishing pond, a swimmable wildlife pond and a tree plantation, as well as fields for you to explore and for the wild orchids, stoats and voles to thrive. Green Traveller's Video of Wheatland Farm: The Rooms: I stayed in Balebarn Lodge, which has two double rooms with double beds and two twin with two single beds (one a set of fabulously rough hewn bunk beds). There's a giant sized kitchen/dining room opening on to a wrap around porch complete with private hot tub (optional, and heated with 100% renewable power) which overlooks the gorgeous pond and conservation area. There are two bathrooms (one a wet room which combined with the wheelchair ramp makes this spot accessible for everyone), and a sitting room with glass sliding doors allowing you to open it to the elements on one side; a wood burner lurks in the background, all pot bellied and friendly should you need it. The barn was built by hand - mostly Ian's it seems, a jack-of-all-trades he popped it up in his spare time. It is ultra-low carbon, uber-insulated and energy efficient. Once just a tin-roofed cow shed it’s now a sleek and exclusive holiday rental accommodation built mostly from recycled materials, from the walls (bales of hay from a local farmer) up. Maggie was in charge of the decorating and it is this that is really the USP – everything is recycled: creative, imaginative, subtle and delightful with just enough of a sense of humour to have you chuckling with glee. The Food: We had supper at a local pub, and generated an appetite by cycling the two miles. It was packed on a week-night out of season. We soon realised that this was totally understandable due to the excellent food. Local food is available at Fiona's Farm Shop, half a mile up the road. Fiona sells cakes, veg and high welfare meat raised on the farm. Winkleigh's Down Farm organic market garden sells its produce via the butcher in Winkleigh square. Groceries supplier Local Farm Box, based in Barnstaple, can usually deliver a next day order. Lots of pubs pride themselves on serving local food, and you can find a fully vegan restaurant in Okehampton, and even a vegan cream tea in the centre of Exeter! The Activities: 'Farm' bikes are available to borrow - or Wheatland Farm will help you hire electric bikes. The Tarka Trail makes a brilliant day out, following the River Torridge on an old railway track. It's great for families and takes in some of the most astonishing Devon countryside. If you fancy something a little less energetic, or the weather is inclement, pop over to the Plough Arts Centre in the centre of Great Torrington where you will find a variety of art, workshops, films theatre and music as well as a lovely cafe. Or head south to Exeter (by bus, train or even car) for the cathedral, tours of the city's underground passageways, and lunch at the historic quayside. For the kids, there are swings and a slide at the farm, and boats and boards for the wildlife pond. For those who like to fish, there's a separate pond with carp and tench. There are rods to borrow and a catch is pretty much guaranteed for novice anglers! There were binoculars left in the barn for us, wifi and internet-connected telly or you may choose to just decompress in the peace and quiet of the bucolic surroundings. The barn has loads of information about day trips and Ian and Maggie are only too happy to give you a guided tour of the farm, or suggest fabulous things to do either in the bicycle saddle or out. Eco-friendly initiatives: Maggie and Ian are quietly passionate about sustainability but have no interest in converting you through anything other than showing you another possible path. As well as installing solar hot water and becoming ‘nearly carbon neutral’ with an 11kW turbine, they have photo voltaic panels and lots of other less obvious energy management measures. Here are few of the stand out initiatives: Electricity 100% renewable, mostly site generated. Sustainability is at the heart of all purchasing decisions Waste is carefully sorted and recycled - over 80% is recycled; food waste collected for biodigestion, any residual waste going for energy reclamation. Wheatland Farm goes beyond minimising its impact; it's a 21 acre conservation project and nature reserve, so your stay leaves Devon even more lovely than you found it. It has won more than 10 awards for sustainable tourism over the past decade. Getting to Wheatland Farm the low carbon way: It's 4 miles to Wheatland Farm from Eggesford Railway Station on the scenic Tarka Line (Exeter to Barnstaple) - approx 45 min walk with some hills. Bus is 315 Stagecoach Exeter to Barnstaple service (stop is Winkleigh Turn). Wheatland Farm can collect and return you from and to local public transport. Once you're at the farm you can borrow free 'farm bikes' for local journeys, or hire fully equipped electric bikes from a local business (arrange in advance). Top Tip: Hire some electric bikes and take off exploring Devon! I was joined by a cycling refusenik of twenty years, almost as surprised as me, he was actually a convert by the end of a two mile jaunt to the pub. You genuinely see things from a saddle that you don't see from a car. This is a perfect spot for a quiet week or two of revision or rewriting for the studious or a perfect midweek romantic getaway. Verdict: You get a true sense from Ian and Maggie that it was inspiring, exciting to create this space - to invent new things with second hand stuff and make it stylish and something for anyone to aspire to. They are not banging the eco-drum, instead they have left it handily nearby with the sticks all ready for you to have a little beat, should you feel like it. Check Availability and Special Offers at Wheatland Farm >> Or call Ian/Maggie on: 01837 83499 or 07780 708747. Mention 'Green Traveller' to Ian/Maggie when you book and receive receive some freshly baked scones during your stay!

Lucy Symons visits Can Marti and finds it a peaceful spot, just perfect for a self-catering escape in quiet, rural, north Ibiza. In a nutshell: A beautiful, authentic and organic farmhouse in a quiet and idyllic spot in the unspoilt north of the island. Rooms: 2 suites and 3 doubles Price: Self-catering from €215/night Meals: Onsite shop (organic groceries); restaurants close by in St Joan/Portinatx village Open: year round Facilities: Babies and Children welcome; Yoga; Good for Birdwatching; Beaches nearby Good for Green: Walkers & Cyclists Welcome; Natural Swimming Pool; Owners grow & sell own organic fruit & vegetables in permaculture garden; Get there by bus (owners will pick up from nearby St Joan/Portinatx village) === Lucy's Review of Can Marti: The Setting: In the North of the Island of Ibiza, just inland from the port town of Portitxol you will find the family run agriturismo: Can Marti. This tiny oasis is a ten-minute walk from the nearest village, Sant Joan and located in the very heart of the Área Natural de Es Amunts, yet close to the fabulous beaches notched into the rugged coast line in tiny bays covered with white sands. Ibiza has a reputation as a scantily clad party town, with the garish parade of dance clubs and bars of St Antonio haunting most lasting impressions, but don’t be put off! The rest of the island is a terrific place – tiny villages and rich agricultural land. The island’s salt plains (Las Salinas) assured the island of independence and self-sustaining industry long before the mad parties started in the 70’s. It is a perfect place for a family holiday, as long as you stay away from strip with its hen parties and stag dos. The Rooms: The original farmhouse and surrounding out buildings at Can Marti have been thoughtfully converted in to five separate self-catering apartments each with their own style. Sleeping from 2 people in the studio, Algarrobo, to five people comfortably accommodated in the slightly more remote loft apartment Granado, each place is totally self-contained and has a private outside area, as well as use of the shared space in the farmland surrounding. The Food: A great deal of what is available for sale in the on-site honesty shop is grown on the land itself – the farm is largely self-sufficient, so you can find pretty much everything you need here as the family raises its own livestock as well as growing organic fruit, vegetables and crops all year round for sale to their punters and also many outside restaurants, including lemons, grapes, strawberries, beans, tomatoes, potatoes, saffron, almonds, olives and carrots. They have their own vineyards and herbs are available in the cleverly designed permaculture garden for you to pick as you need them, although the saffron is highly prized and rather heavily guarded. Figs and almonds also grown in abundance and you can find homemade jams and marmalades for sale. On the shelves of the shop you’ll also find free range eggs from the resident chickens (who have their own dedicated yurt to live in!) as well as legumes, cereals, organic wines and an assortment of fair trade products. Including chocolate. You really could live quite happily on what you can find in the shop or pick yourself, but the local town of St Joan also has a weekly market (Sunday) and several good restaurants and bars. Activities: Enjoy a dip in the stunning natural pool - it was the first in Ibiza. If you yearn to explore the coast, there are some gorgeous beaches within a few minutes drive. Yoga and pilates are taught locally, you can hire horses, go kayaking, do some diving and there is local museum if you crave some culture. Visit the Punic tombs and see the ceramics found in the nearby cave of Es Cuieram, which was one of the Carthaginians' most important places of worship. Local operator 'Walking Ibiza' has regular guided walking tours (Wednesday and Friday) of the lesser known corners of the Island and can include you in a group of mostly international residents, although everyone is welcome (43 walkers when I went in mid April). They will show you places you wouldn’t necessarily find on your own, explaining about native flora and fauna as you stroll. The endlessly fascinating Sheila can even be talked in to giving your group a private guided tour and prevailed upon to provide a delicious picnic for you to devour at the end of your trek. The Green: As well as growing their own food, the farm is run on the principle of permaculture, reflecting their dedication to finding a responsible way to interact with the environment and protect nature. Sustainable on all levels, they generate their own solar energy through photovoltaic cells and solar panels, which produce more than 50% of the electricity and 85% of the hot water consumed in the agroturismo. (and strangely discouraged by the Spanish government – undaunted, the family have successfully managed this feat). They have also installed a complex, natural system of wastewater treatment. It includes various mechanisms and a series of ponds with aquatic plants that filter the water and allow reuse for trees irrigation. In addition rainwater is collected in a traditional cistern and used to water the orchards and other crops. Tom explained that the old ways are possibly the best ways when it comes to living symbiotically at Can Marti. Getting to Can Marti the low carbon way: It's possible to reach Can Marti by public transport from the UK. See our guide to London to Ibiza by train and ferry. Once you've arrive in Ibiza, hop on the 400 bus to Sant Joan/Portinatx and the owners are happy to collect guests in the village. During your stay at Can Marti, you can use the local buses (nb. there are no trains on the island at all). Top Tip: Grab yourself a bottle of Tom’s organic and homegrown and pressed olive oil – quite the most delicious thing you will ever dunk your bread in. Verdict: Can Marti is perfect for an escape. In such a tranquil place you can’t quite believe you are in Ibiza if your impression of Ibiza is a really busy, noisy place – come here and see a completely alternative side to the island. When I stayed the wifi was a bit patchy, but maybe this is a message to switch everything off and just be in the moment – pick some figs, commune with the ducks, geese and donkeys and relax by the pool, watching the dragonflies swoop across the glassy surface to the song sung by the native frogs. Book a Holiday at Orion Treehouses: Email Tom: canmarti@canmarti.com or call him on: +34 971 33 35 00. Mention 'Green Traveller' when you book and receive a bottle of Tom's excellent olive oil during your stay!

The latest news on travel during the climate and nature emergencies Great things are happening in green travel. To receive our free digest of the week's news in your inbox every week, sign up here. In The News All Aboard the Climate Train to COP26 Eurostar has announced it will be running a special service from Amsterdam, Rotterdam and Brussels to Glasgow via London for delegates to travel to COP26. The 'Climate Train' Eurostar service will depart Amsterdam Central on 30th October travelling to London St. Pancras International via Brussels-Midi. From here passengers will travel to London Euston to board an Avanti West Coast service to Glasgow Central. New IPCC report on Climate Change This week the UN’s Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change published its latest assessment of the “physical science basis” for climate change. The last time it published this kind of full scale assessment was 8 years ago and it makes for sober reading. The report runs to 3,000 pages and references more than 14,000 scientific papers. As Carbon Brief explains, "While this can be a bruising ordeal for the IPCC scientists, it means that no government can turn around later and say they don’t accept the science." Read Carbon Brief's in-depth Q&A about the report, which says that the scientists couldn’t really be any clearer – "climate change and weather extremes are being driven by human-caused emissions and, if that continues, the global warming experienced to date will only get worse." New Juliana Trail in Slovenia The Guardian reports on "the latest addition to the country’s sustainable tourism plan" – a 270km walking trail across one of Europe’s oldest national parks: Slovenia’s new Juliana Trail reveals a land of water, rock and forest Supporting Women in Travel The Financial Times travel section sent writer Chris Allnutt to sample a new Intrepid Urban Adventures trip in London - The Ethiopian Flavours in Shepherd's Bush All - whose guides are all women - a portion of ticket sales goes to social enterprise Women in Travel. Read the article: Postcard from Shepherd's Bush - a taste of Ethiopia. "Green Savvy" Brits willing to switch planes for trains Omio – the German online multi-modal travel comparison and booking website – reports on research it has commissioned by YouGov that it says shows almost half of Brits are willing to take the train over the plane. The data, which is based on an online survey of 2,153 people between 30 June and 4 July 2021, reports that 45% of Brits surveyed said that they would choose trains over planes "for travel based on greater sustainability", although pricing continues to be a key motivator: 49% would be more likely to switch to rail travel purely if the ticket price was cheaper than flying. Almost a third of UK respondents would happily accept a slightly longer journey if it had a positive impact on the environment with almost a third willing to spend up to an additional 30 minutes travelling, and 16% are content to double that to up to 60 minutes longer. Omio's Boris Radke said: “Our recent survey shows there has been a shift in the ways Brits choose to travel pre and post Covid. As we emerge from a global pandemic and travel resumes, we hope to encourage consumers to consider they can support sustainable travel whilst potentially saving time and money.” “The common perception that flying is always the fastest way to get from A to B doesn’t necessarily hold true once you consider the additional time required to get to the airport, queue at check-in or security and wait to board or retrieve baggage. In fact, travelling by train or even coach can be just as quick or quicker. Add to that the high quality accommodation onboard long-distance trains and coaches across Europe, which are generally equipped with comfy seats, refreshments, WiFi, tables and plug sockets, the benefits to the environment and the bigger baggage allowance and it becomes a highly attractive alternative”. Trains far greener but much more costly than planes, analysis finds The Guardian and inews.co.uk both report on a Which? investigation, which compared the train and plane fares on popular UK routes. It found that half of train fares are more expensive than plane fares despite rail journeys causing 80% lower carbon dioxide emissions. A new green cycling route with the cycle hire scheme in Glasgow Nextbikes cycle hire scheme’s new sponsor, OVO Energy, have given the Glasgow bikes a new look and with the launch of the rebranded OVO Bikes is a new “bike green” route, which takes visitors to sustainable businesses throughout the city by bike. See the Green Route map. A ride costs £1 per 30 minutes, or a maximum of £10 per day (less for members). E-bikes are also available at the rate of £2 per 20 min. Sustrans unveils new murals The nationwide walking and cycling organisation Sustrans has unveiled new murals created by local artists along the National cycle Network Route 77 between Perth and Almondbank. Cycle Rail map A new map has been produced highlighting cycling and rail routes connected to the Kingfisher Trail, which features 22 beautifully adorned kingfishers, created by locally and internationally respected artists, perched across the Cotswolds National Landscape. The map has been produced by the Gloucestershire Community Rail Partnership (GCRP), which aims "to improve accessibility to public transport and contribute to peoples’ positive experiences of sustainable tourism across Gloucestershire". As part of that, they are involved in a number of community projects to highlight and promote the rail network and access to railway stations across the region. The Times launches Green Travel section The Times has launched a Green Travel section on its website, pledging to "keep green travel at the very top of our agenda,". It first few articles offer plenty of ideas and inspiration for travelling ethically and sustainably, including a guide to 'how to green up your travels post-pandemic' and a feature on '9 ethical travel companies going the extra, eco-friendly mile'. New Treehouse Holiday in Northumberland A luxury new treehouse has opened at Beacon Hill Farm Holiday Cottages in Northumberland. Dundreggan Rewilding Centre to open in 2022 Trees for life, the organisation that is rewilding areas of Scotland, in particular to reintroduce the native Caledonian pines, is planning to open the Dundreggan Rewilding Centre to visitors in 2022 "to engage with a larger and more diverse audience". Architectural plans have been finalised, planning permission has been granted, and the building contractor has been selected. Loganair to trial electric planes Loganair, the Scottish airline, is developing electric planes to join their fleet, possibly by 2024. The first one should be running the very short connection between Westray and Papa Westray, the shortest commercial flight route in the world. Read more about Project Freeson. Green Traveller Feature of the Week How to travel to Glasgow COP26 by public transport COP26 is being held from the 31st October to 12th November 2021 at The Scottish Event Campus (SEC), which is in Glasgow's west end not far from the city centre and has its own railway station, so it's pretty easy to reach by public transport. Here is our round up of some of the many options for low carbon travel to COP26, whether you've travelling a short distance by train, bus or bike, or long distance, by train, yacht or even cargo boat.

A tour operator has launched a series of holidays where you can learn the craft of wildlife filmmaking. Inspired by David Attenborough's latest natural history blockbuster The Green Planet? Specialist operator Wildlife Worldwide has for many years offered photography-focused wildlife holidays and now, for 2022, it has introduced two new workshops on videography, helping guests to capture the natural world on film too. The two trips, to the Cairngorms and Finland’s Boreal forests, are based from lodges where guests have the best chance to see a range of wildlife. The daily workshop sessions concentrate on different techniques, including time-lapsing, camera trapping and drone filming, with one-on-one tuition. Both workshops are led by professional videographer Neil Aldridge. On the five-night visit to the Cairngorms in the heart of Scotland’s rewilding country, the company says it "aims to film some of Britain’s most scenic landscapes and exciting wildlife, including fishing ospreys, leaping red squirrels and hunting dolphins". Wildlife Worldwide says the workshop is ideal for anyone "who feels inspired or intrigued to learn how to film wildlife, to capture more than just photographs or to build their video portfolio". The five-night visit to Finland visits the vast untouched forest along the Finnish-Russian border that is a stronghold of the brown bear. Europe’s other large predators – wolverines and wolves – live here too and specialist hides will be used to film and watch them.

I took the ferry from Portsmouth across to Santander in Northern Spain to visit the inspiring Posada del Valle 19th-century stone farmhouse. In a nutshell: A tranquil in quiet family-run hotel on an organic farm near Arriondas by the Picos de Europa national park - between the sea and the mountains. Rooms: 12 rooms Price: Self-catering from €63.20/night Meals: Breakfast €9 per person; Dinner €28.50 per person Open: year round Good to know: Babies and Children welcome; popular with walkers & birdwatchers; close to beaches of eastern Asturias; nearby towns Cangas de Onis & Llanes Good for green: Walkers & Cyclists Welcome; Owners provide produce from their organic orchards and vegetable garden for breakfast and dinner; EEC registered organic farm; Good for vegetarians. Watch a video of Posada del Valle: === Richard's Review of Posada del Valle: The Setting: Posada del Valle is a 19th-century stone farmhouse near Arriondas by the Picos de Europa national park. It was once the home of a parish priest, which the English owners have turned it into a certified organic farm where rare breed sheep graze among 18 acres of wild meadow and the electricity is bought in from renewable sources. There's juice from the apple orchard, fresh home-baked bread and veg from the terraced garden for evening meals in a glass-fronted dining-room. The Rooms: The 12 bedrooms are ensuite with stone walls and windows that originate from the building’s past role as a priest’s farmhouse. The Food: Homemade apple juice and bread for breakfast, while in the evening the imaginative daily changing set menu (based on seasonality and availability) includes a soup, salad (much of it picked just hours before it is served), main course (with a vegetarian option), dessert or a selection of local cheeses. About a third of the food is produced from the farm, another third from a specialist organic distributor and 15% of the rest is from certified-organic local small producers. The owners also bake all their own bread, cakes and desserts.Over 98% of all the products used in the hotel restaurant are certified organic. Activities: Read about the locality in the small library or curl up in front of an open fire in the comfortable lounge that was converted from the farm's original stables. Listen to the distant sound of the mountain goat bells and admire the views from the large gallery windows of the lush valley below. This is prime walking country - there are 40 self-guided walks in the area from gentle strolls to mountain treks. The posada is close to the sandy beaches of the Cantabrian coast, but go to the many inland rivers for canoeing and canyoning, or into the mountains for horse-riding and mountain-biking. The farmhouse is a 3km walk from Arriondas, which is four hours by bus from Bilbao, two hours from Santander. For more ideas of what to do in the area, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Green Spain. The Green: Solar panels for hot water and central heating Low energy appliances throughout Rainwater is used to irrigate crops Use of water is minimised using low flow rate showers and taps and water-efficient toilets Recycling of paper, glass and plastic, and compost available for organic waste Get to Posada del Valle the low carbon way: It is possible to reach Northern Spain by public transport from the UK. See our guide to London to Santander by train and ferry. From Santander, you can either get a bus (about 2 hours with Alsa) or hop on the FEV train to Ariondas (about 3 hours) from where it's a short taxi ride to the hotel (about €6-7.) Verdict: There's a country inn feeling to this family-run organic farmstay that the owner Nigel has carefully developed over many years. Large airy stone rooms with wonderful views over the lush valley. While the accommodation is comfortable (and the organic food delicious), it's the location that will take your breath away - in a terrific position between the mountains of the Picos de Europa and the beautiful beaches of eastern Asturias. Top Tip: Watch our video of Green Spain to see some of the things you can do in the region (we visited Posada del Valle while we filmed this!): Book a Holiday at Posada del Valle: Email Nigel: hotel@posadadelvalle.com or call him on: +34 985 84 11 57. Mention 'Green Traveller' when you book and receive some fresh organic produce during your stay!

My wife and I travel to the spa town of Cauterets in the Hautes-Pyrénées for our boys' first ski trip Hiking, cycling, skiing and nature-watching may be the major tourism draws in the Pyrenees – the mountain range that runs for 430km between Perpignan and San Sebastian, drawing a saw-toothed line between the Iberian Peninsula and the rest of Europe – but the region is also the geographical equivalent of comfort food. If you're hankering for a holiday that's rooted in local culture, easy to navigate and free of pretension, you'll find it here. In place of big-brand international supermarkets, coffee shops and hotel chains are ancient meadows, traditional stone farmhouses and small businesses run with love. For my family there was one other compelling attraction of an Easter break in the French Pyrenees: it promised the perfect ingredients for a first family ski trip, with a good snow record, warm weather, good deals on ski passes and accommodation and plenty to do off-piste (there was a chance, after all, that our two young boys wouldn't take to skiing). Watch the video of the trip, including the journey by train from London to Toulouse: Just over ten years ago I wrote a short feature in the Guardian about an 18th Century inn in the Pyrenees, and wrote: "The Pyrenees may be less popular than the Alps but they're no less dramatic and for me they tick all the boxes for a festive green break - fresh mountain air, family-sized crepes and an unassuming atmosphere where no one gives a vin chaude whether your sunglasses match your salopettes. And what they lack in altitude, they make up for in low-impact mountain activities." A decade later, we found the same is still true. Basing ourselves in the historic spa town of Cauterets in the Hautes-Pyrénées, two hours' drive from Toulouse, meant we would be able to tap into all the benefits of a town (rather than a more ski-focused resort) since the town is not directly on-piste but connected to the slopes by a 12-minute cable car ride. Enjoying warm sunny weather during our visit we duly headed up to the slopes each morning fully kitted out for the Narnia-like temperatures higher up then zipped back down to the town each afternoon to enjoy hikes, swimming and trips to the local play park in warm, flipflop-friendly sunshine. What to do on-piste Cauterets's ski bowl, the Cirque du Lys, benefits from its high altitude (the peak is 2,415m) and north-facing orientation to produce reliably good natural snow cover. Our visit, in a year when the Easter holidays were relatively late and during a long period of blue-sky conditions, meant that the snow wasn't powder-perfect for more advanced skiers but our two small first-timers knew no different (and, we guessed, were happier in the sunshine than they would have been in chillier, snowier conditions). In fact, we felt the 'stickier' snow at this time of year made learning slightly easier for them. We booked private lessons for the boys on two mornings while we went off to explore some of Cauterets' 36km of pistes (despite the sunshine 80% of Cauterets' pistes were open during that first week of April), and these worked well. Our three year-old asked to duck out of lessons on the second morning in favour of a few runs on the nursery slopes with his parents (and a cup of hot chocolate) but, under instructor Clement's gentle guidance, our four year-old enjoyed the skiing so much that he asked to join a group class on our third morning and happily swooshed off to meet them. The Cirque du Lys is also home to an impressive terrain park, a designated sledging area and a fully staffed, bi-lingual crèche, the Mini Club; we paid for a couple of hours in the latter one day so that we could do a few longer runs on our own and the boys were perfectly happy there, drawing and playing with toys. One other benefit of travelling during the Easer holidays is that Cauterets offers good deals on the last couple of weeks of the season for lift passes and ski hire (family ski passes normally cost from €176.40 for two days but are free for children during this period) so it's a good time to test the water with beginners. We kept our skis at our hotel as it was close to the cable car station but we could have paid a few euros to leave them overnight at the hire shop (just below the cable car station) if our accommodation had been further away, or slightly more to leave them with the ski concierge service at the top of the cable car station (a useful service, with small children, if you don't want to carry two extra pairs of skis back to your accommodation each day). Finally, for on-piste snacks and meals, the Restaurant Le Lys, up at the top cable car station, has recently been renovated in industrial mountain style (think white metal bistro chairs set against timber-clad walls) and makes a great spot to grab lunch or a hot chocolate overlooking the slopes. There's a nice nod to local cuisine on the menu, too, with a range of local craft beers from the Brasserie des Gaves, organic beef burgers from regional farms and garbure (a local slow-cooked duck stew) served in miniature cast-iron casserole pots. If your budget doesn't stretch to eating out the space also includes a large indoor picnic area with tables, chairs, microwaves and panoramic windows looking over snowy peaks. What to do off-piste Much grander than its small population of 1150 suggests, with majestic belle époque hotels, thermal baths, a former casino and an immaculately preserved wooden railway station (now used solely by buses), Cauterets owes its impressive architecture to its thermal springs; in the mid-19th century a flood of wealthy spa tourists prompted a flurry of development. Apart from eating out (see below), shopping and trips to the town's play park, we spent most of our afternoons indulging in some restorative après-ski in the town's Bains du Rocher, a spa complex with indoor and outdoor pools. Surprisingly family-friendly, with a dedicated toddler pool, this was a hit with everyone. Particularly the outdoor pool where, at one end, we could sit in a circular hydrotherapy tank, peacefully soaking up its balmy bubbles and views of the mountains, while the boys spent what felt like hours playing in the jets of water around the tank as though they were on a water park ride. Another popular excursion was the nearby Pont d'Espagne, where you can walk along a well-marked trail though beautiful protected forest to an ancient stone bridge connecting France and Spain (and then stop off for an ice cream on the terrace at the rustic hotel beside the bridge). One afternoon we also drove down to the Parc Animalier des Pyrenees, in nearby Argeles-Gazost. An alternative, seven-hectare zoo, it houses around 120 species and focuses largely on smaller animals native to France including vultures, wolves, otters, ibex, roe deer and marmots (though there are also some larger animals like bears and lynx, and some creatures from French Guiana such as squirrel monkeys and red ibis birds). For a more immersive experience the parc also has two lodges where visitors can stay overnight: one looks out over the bear enclosure and is just for couples, the other sleeps four and looks out over the wolves. At the smaller end of the animal scale, the parc is also home to a giant insect hotel so grand we dubbed it the chateau des insectes. Where to stay The Hotel Lion d'Or is a true one-off, a small-town French hotel that's family-owned (in this case the fourth generation of the Lasserre family) and moderately priced but operated with flair. Set on one of Cauterets' more modest streets its windows are framed by cheery blue shutters, its wrought-iron balconies decorated with carefully tended windowboxes and its rooms furnished with antiques, collectables and toile de jouy fabrics rather than factory-made hotel furniture. As there were four of us, we stayed across a little lane from the main building, in an apartment. Decorated in the same style as the hotel bedrooms, and with access to all the hotel facilities, this had the added benefit of a self-catering kitchen. The Lasserre family live and breathe hospitality, welcoming us with freshly picked lilacs and a loaf of homemade gingerbread cake when we arrived and making up beds that felt as close to sleeping in a nest as is humanly possible, layered with sheets, duvets and eiderdowns that could be added or removed to suit. Though we made the most of our self-catering kitchen during our stay we did have one breakfast in the hotel, and one dinner, and both were just right for ski trip indulging – excellent home cooking served with care, in generous amounts. For dinner, we started with a blueberry liqueur, served over ice as an aperitif, before making our way through a creamy vegetable soup, a stellar tartiflette with green salad, pan-fried trout topped with almonds and homemade meringue with fresh blueberry coulis and whipped cream (or, to the boys' delight, vanilla-speckled ice cream with mini smarties and homemade star biscuits). Breakfast was no less princely – a buffet of homemade cakes, homemade yoghurts, gateaux mytrille (a local speciality rather like a giant blueberry muffin), apple and cinnamon compote, homemade jams, eggs, cheeses, rich hot chocolate and 'merveilles' – little rectangular doughnuts dusted with icing sugar and made to Grandmother Lasserre's special recipe. Where to eat If you're self-catering you'll find everything from cheese and charcuterie shops to bakeries, specialist wine stores, an organic grocery, a small market and numerous shops making the berlingots (boiled sweets) that Cauterets has long been associated with. Le Refuge du Sens is another must-visit. A dainty chocolate shop higher up the same street as the Lion d'Or, it sells delicious Valrhona chocolates plus a homemade version of Nutella. For sit-down meals, we tended to make the most of our apartment's kitchen and eat in more than out since most local restaurants don't open until 7pm and, especially after a day on the slopes, that was too late for our under-fives. One place that bucked that trend was La Creperie Basque, two doors up from the hotel, a gorgeously retro spot run by the indefatigable Jeannine and open all day (for slightly more upmarket crepes we also liked the town's Creperie du Molleau. Other hits in Cauterets included Giovanni Pizzeria, for simple wood-fired pizzas, the Jardin d'Oh! for soups and gourmet hotdogs and Chez Gillou patisserie for giant blueberry tarts. For a decadent dinner out, we hired a babysitter through the hotel and drove down the road to L'Abri du Benques, a smart but relaxed restaurant in a magical waterfall setting on the road to the Pont d'Espagne. Order chef Julien Canton's three-course 'flavours of the southwest' menu and work your way through elegant plates of smoked trout with bitter herbs, ham with baked endive and beef served, dramatically, with a side of bone marrow. Or drive down the valley in the other direction, to Le Viscos, in Saint Savin, for classic French cooking and charmingly old-fashioned hospitality. Chef Jean-Pierre Saint-Martin's take on garbure – a meaty terrine served with a tiny, pretty, salad - is a world away from the conventional rustic stew. And don't miss his Noir de Bigorre (pork from a rare breed that's endemic to the Pyrenees) - a huge, slightly pink chop topped crispy ham and served with an ambrosial, creamy sauce and a dainty little train of pasta parcels stuffed with truffles. Getting there By train from London to Toulouse via Eurostar and TGV, then hire a car from the station at Toulouse (avis.co.uk). The apartment at the Lion d'Or costs from €800 per week for four people (hotel-cauterets.fr). More information: cauterets.com; www.pyrenees-holiday.com Disclosure: Richard Hammond and family were a guest of the Cauterets and Hautes-Pyrénées tourist offices. Voyages SNCF provided the rail tickets for two adults from London to Toulouse. Richard has full editorial control of the review, which is written in his own words based on his experience of visiting Cauterets in the winter of 2017. All opinions are the author’s own.

by Richard Hammond The Travel Foundation is to help the tourism sector in the Pacific Islands 'rebuild better' as the region recovers from the Covid-19 pandemic. The Pacific Tourism Organisation (SPTO), which represents 20 Pacific Island governments (and also enlists a large private sector membership base) says the partnership will focus on “smart recovery”: maximising the value tourism brings to communities in the Pacific, supporting Pacific Island governments and businesses to rebuild tourism on strong foundations based on sustainable, managed growth, enhanced quality of life, and protection of natural and cultural resources. The organisations will develop and deliver together a programme of work focused on: Developing new products and experiences based on the uniqueness of each island, stimulating local entrepreneurship and strong local supply chains. Enhancing tourism governance with new standards, research to better understand social, environmental and economic impacts, and new measures of success. Training and skills development for governments, small businesses and other organisations. Facilitating engagement and participation from residents, community groups and other stakeholders to develop a strong shared vision for the future of tourism The work will be a multi-year partnership between the organisations. Jeremy Sampson (right), CEO of the Travel Foundation, said: “We have high hopes for a fruitful collaboration where innovation and best practice will combine to demonstrate the true potential of tourism to benefit communities. The Pacific has the opportunity and ambition to lead the way in developing a new model for tourism which will inspire others globally”. Christopher Cocker, CEO of the Pacific Tourism Organisation, said: “We welcome the experience and expertise that the Travel Foundation brings to our team, and look forward to working in close collaboration to support our members with the tools, resources and programmes that will support smart and swift recovery, and ensure the region’s tourism offer is future fit.  We know we have a huge task ahead as we begin the process of recovery, and it is important that we do things that are right not just for now, but for the long term.” The partnership will be formally launched to SPTO members at a virtual event on 8 July, and one of the first joint activities, 'Smart Recovery Planning Workshops' for SPTO’s members, will be delivered over the coming months. See the video Green Traveller produced in 2017 about the work of the Travel Foundation:

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to the Brecon Beacons, here is our guide to travelling to and around the Brecon Beacons National Park without a car. Travelling to the Brecon Beacons without a car By train The main gateway station to the Brecon Beacons is Abergavenny, in the south east of the Brecon Beacons from where there is bus service into the National Park (see below). Abergavenny is reached via a 25-minute train journey up from Newport in South Wales, which has connections (operated by Transport for Wales, previously Arriva Trains) from much of the rest of the country, including Swansea, Cardiff, the West Midlands and Manchester. A second gateway station is Llandovery, to the north west, on the Swansea-Shrewsbury 'Heart of Wales' line. By coach or bus Cardiff and Swansea have a range of National Express and Megabus connections. There are regular buses and trains from the two cities into the Brecon Beacons. The principal long-distance bus service connecting the Brecon Beacons is the TrawsCymru T4 bus from Newtown to Cardiff via Brecon. Touted as the 'Route with a View', it offers free wifi and comfortable leather seats, and puts the Beacons within striking distance of much of South and Mid Wales. Travelling around the Brecon Beacons without a car Whilst it is simple enough to take a train to reach the Brecon Beacons, railway travel is not really a viable option for getting around the National Park. However, its rugged terrain and many sites are well-connected by a bus network, which is augmented during the peak summer months. Bus Services There is a network of year-round weekday bus services across the park. For timetables and more information see Traveline Cymru before you set out! Key routes for visitors include the following: 30: Blaenavon - Cwmavon - Pontypool - Cwmbran X75: Merthyr Tydfil - Hirwaun - Glynneath - Neath - Swansea X4 Hereford - Abergavenny - Merthyr Tydfil - Cardiff X43: Brecon - Crickhowell - Abergavenny X55 – Swansea – Glynneath via Neath Cycling The Brecon Beacons National Park is a fantastic cycling destination. Its rugged scenery is complemented by a network of well-maintained roads, and is criss-crossed by long distance trails, bridleways and canal towpaths, meaning even those who don’t want the challenge of rocky upland terrain have plenty of options. The Monmouth and Brecon canal in particular winds through the lovely Usk valley between the Black Mountains and the Brecon Beacons themselves, and offers easy, flat cycling with wonderful views. Some of the roads and paths do have steep inclines, so it is definitely worth checking this out – and packing lightly – before heading out on your bike. You can bring your bike on trains, but mainline services normally require you to reserve a space for your two-wheeled friend in advance; local services have more limited space but you usually don’t need to reserve – be sure to check this out with the train company to avoid problems. If you’re arriving by bus, most services do not, unfortunately, carry bicycles, so bear this in mind when planning your trip. Should you wish to hire a bike upon arrival, the Brecon Beacons Mountain Biking website has an extensive list of cycling providers in and around the Brecon Beacons. For more detailed information, routes and inspiration for your Brecon Beacons biking experience, check out the MTB Brecon Beacons. They have graded the 16 major cycle routes across the National Park according to difficulty, from yellow (easiest), through green, blue, and red to black (most challenging). You can also find out what Sustrans is doing for cyclists across the Brecon Beacons and Wales at Sustrans Cymru. There are also five biking centres in the National Park, at Brecon, Crickhowell, Sennybridge, Talgarth, and Talybont-on-Usk. Maps and Further Information There are two excellent visitor information centres for the Brecon Beacons: The National Park Visitor Centre (Mountain Centre) at Libanus plus the Llandovery Museum and Visitor Gateway. The Brecon Beacons National Park Authority has also published useful leaflets for days out and travelling without your car. They also have guides to family walks by bus and more challenging mountain walks accessible by bus. For more information about where to stay, eat, local attractions and outdoor activities, see: Green Traveller's Guide to the Brecon Beacons National Park.

Our guide to travelling to and around Loch Lomond and the Trossachs without a car. Within easy reach of Glasgow (which has excellent transport links from the rest of the UK), Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park has good rail, bus, and boat services and plenty of provision for cycling. A. Getting to Loch Lomond and the Trossachs without a car: By Train: From England, Wales and southern Scotland, the first part of the journey can be made by a huge number of mainline rail services to Glasgow or Edinburgh. Glasgow is located closer to the National Park, however services from both cities (and central/northern Scotland) run to Balloch, on Loch Lomond; Stirling, for bus connections to the Trossachs; and via the West Highland Line to Arrochar and Tarbet, Ardlui, Crianlarich and Tyndrum (also runs from Mallaig and Fort William to the north). For the Cowal area of the National Park, you can take a train from Glasgow to Gourock, then a ferry to Dunoon for onward bus connections. For more information, tickets and timetables for train services, have a look at Scotrail (for travel within Scotland), Virgin Trains and East Coast (for mainline services from England, Wales, and southern Scotland). By Coach or Bus: CityLink is the premier long distance bus operator in Scotland, and links many destinations across the country to destinations in and around Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park. Key routes include Glasgow – Callander (on the western side of the Loch) and the Dundee – Oban route, which passes through St Fillans, Killin, and Crianlarich. Additionally, there are National Express services from across mainland Britain to Glasgow and Edinburgh, as well as services to Stirling, Callander and Balloch, and Megabus services to the principal Scottish cities. Getting around without a car: By Train: Railway services are more adapted for getting to, rather than around, Loch Lomond and the Trossachs, however if you do find yourself travelling between Balloch, Helensburgh, and Dumbarton; or Arrochar, Crianlarich, and Tyndrum, you could choose to take the train: for more information, see Scotrail. By Bus: There is a network of buses across the National Park, to plan your journey head to the Traveline Scotland website, and be sure to check timetables are current – especially if you’re heading to a more remote location. Many buses on the eastern side of the Park are run by TacTranConnect; whilst McGills runs services 206 from Balloch to Dumbarton and 309 from Alexandria to Balmaha; Citylink’s service 976 runs up the western side of Loch Lomond; and First operates services in the eastern part of the National Park, including the 59 from Callander to Stirling, and the C13 from Balfron to Balloch. The Ring of Breadalbane Explorer offers a hop-on, hop-off service, on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays, until the 20th of October, allowing you to explore the beautiful scenery of the Breadalbane area, between Killin, Crieff, Aberfeldy and Comrie (for transport connections). By Boat: Perhaps one of the most appealing ways to travel around the National Park, and across the very waters of Loch Lomond itself, is by boat. Conveniently linking in with the rail network at Balloch, Loch Lomond Water Bus connects numerous points around the loch, including Balloch, Luss, Balmaha, and Tarbet; plus Loch Katrine (on the Walter Scott steamship) – have a look at their full route and timetable listings. You could also travel across Loch Lomond with Sweeney’s Cruises and Cruise Loch Lomond, whose routes link the principal centres of Balloch, Balmaha, Luss, and the West Highland Way: they also offer circular cruises. For walkers heading to the West Highland Way, specific information and links to timetables for transport to the route are available on the West Highland Way website. Whether you want to cycle on well-maintained roads that skirt the coasts of the Park’s great lochs or really challenge yourself on dramatic off-road mountain terrain, Loch Lomond and the Trossachs is great for cyclists, and offers some of the UK’s finest views. Be sure to check the difficulty level of your intended route, and the weather forecast, before heading out to avoid getting into trouble. If you want to bring your two-wheeled friend along, all mainline train services (and many local ones) have spaces for bikes, but to avoid problems or disappointment, it is always best to reserve your spot in advance. To do this, you can either call the train operator, or head to your local railway station’s ticket office. It is also possible to take bikes on the Loch Lomond Water Bus - none of the operators have a limit on how many bikes can be brought, but if you are a large group it is advisable to call up in advance, particularly on weekends and public holidays. Only the Ring of Breadalbane Explorer and long distance buses are equipped to carry bicycles, and conditions apply, so it is always best to call up (Citylink or West Coast Motors) before setting out. Bike hire is available at many points across the National Park, including the docking ports of the Loch Lomond water bus (for details see the Water bus leaflet). Welcome to Scotland recommends a couple of bike hire and cycle providers in Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park, too. Some of the main cycle hire centres in the National Park are: Wheels Cycle Hire, Callander Loch Katrine Cycle Hire (run by Wheels of Callander) Go Country, Aberfoyle Killin Outdoor Centre and Mountain Shop Mounter Bikes, Callander Cruise Loch Lomond, Tarbet A classic, and not too challenging, route is to trace the seventeen miles between Balloch and Tarbet along the western coast of Loch Lomond (download the West Loch Lomond Cycle Path leaflet here); and National Cycle Route 76 offers a great way into the eastern part of the National Park near Stirling and Alloa. For more cycle information and inspiration around Loch Lomond, the Trossachs and beyond, head to the Sustrans website; and for more cycling information see the Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park cycling page, including some route ideas. Trossachs.co.uk also has a selection of cycle routes to and around the National Park. Maps and further information The National Park website offers both an interactive map of Loch Lomond and the Trossachs and a more traditional, but clear and useful map of the National Park. If you want to get hold of more maps, guides, leaflets, and information, head to one of the National Park’s useful visitor centres – where you can also stock up on expert advice from friendly locals. The main National Park Visitor Centre is located in Balmaha, and you can access a list of all the visitor and tourist information centres around Loch Lomond and the Trossachs here. To plan a trip to Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park, see: Loch Lomond and the Trossachs

As part of our series on car-free guides to beautiful places in the UK, here is our guide to how to travel to Stonehenge and Avebury without a car - by train, bus, bike and on foot. Stonehenge By Bus to Stonehenge: There's an excellent bus service 'The Stonehenge Tour' that goes from Salisbury railway station (the nearest railway station to Stonehenge) direct to the main visitor centre at Stonehenge. The journey to Stonehenge takes about half an hour and departs every 30 minutes in the summer and every hour in the winter (Stonehenge Tour Timetable). Tickets cost £16 return for adults, £10 for children aged 5-15. A family ticket (2 adults and up to 3 children) costs £43. You can also buy a combined ticket, which includes access to the Stonehenge stones without having to queue for a ticket once you arrive, plus you can "hop on, hop off" at Old Sarum en route to Stonehenge and visit Salisbury Cathedral in Salisbury either before or after visiting Stonehenge. Tickets cost £38 for adults, £25 for children aged 5-15. A family ticket (2 adults and up to 3 children) costs £113. Here's our video about the Stonehenge Tour: There are also two other bus services from Salisbury to Amesbury - the Activ8 (which goes on to Andover) and the X5 (which goes on to Pewsey, Marlborough and Swindon), so you can use these services to get to Amesbury if you're coming from those destinations. By train to Stonehenge: The nearest railway stations to Stonehenge are: Salisbury (12 miles) - from where there's a bus to Stonehenge (see above); Grately (12 miles); Warminster (17 miles); and Andover (18 miles) from where there's a bus to Amesbury (from where it's a 2-mile walk to Stonehenge - see below). On foot to Stonehenge: It's 2-mile walk from Amesbury to Stonehenge along byways and bridleways, either across Countess Farm or Coneybury Hill. You can also walk under the underpass to get under the A303 roundabout, then use the pavements along the A345 (Countess Road) to Stonehenge. When you arrive at Stonehenge main visitor centre, it's a mile's walk to the actual stone circle. By bike: It is possible to cycle from Salisbury to Stonehenge. Here's an useful map showing the route (see page 2): Salisbury to Stonehenge cycle map. Printed copies are available from Salisbury’s Tourist Information Centre (in Fish Row, just off the Market Place). Here's our video of how to travel to Stonehenge without a car Avebury By Train: The nearest rail stations to Avebury are Pewsey (10 miles); Swindon (11 miles - from where there's a bus to Avebury); Chippenham (14 miles); Great Bedwyn (13 miles); Trowbridge (21 miles - from where there's a bus to Avebury). By Bus: There are two bus services to Avebury (they both stop outside the lovely Red Lion pub at the edge of Avebury village): The 49 Stagecoach service from Swindon, which departs hourly and travels on to Trowbridge and Devizes; and the 42 Thamesdown Transport service from Calne, which travels from departs infrequently and travels on to Marlborough. On foot: Avebury is at the end of the Ridgeway National Trail - an 87-mile walking route through the Chilterns and North Wessex Downs - both are classified as 'Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty. The route explores ancient landscapes, through downland, secluded valleys and woodland. How to travel to Avebury without a car For the latest information about journeys in Wiltshire, use Connecting Wiltshire's up-to-date Journey Planner. which compares the journeys by train, bus, bike, on foot and by car.

Yvonne Gordon visits West Sweden to explore the car-free island of Styrsö, in the Gothenburg Archipelago, by bike and discovers pretty harbours, nature reserves and some wonderful spots for swimming “You’ll find a Bronze Age grave up there,” says Ola, pointing to Stora Rös in the centre of the island map. On the same map, he has also marked the best swimming spots, the most scenic harbours and the nicest cafés. We’re on Styrsö Island in the Gothenburg Archipelago, at Ola’s guesthouse, Pensionat Styrsö Skaret. I’ve just arrived off the ferry, a two-minute walk away, and I’m already torn between curling up beside the open fire, candles and books in the cosy B&B, or going exploring on one of the free bikes. The bike wins of course, and I am soon off up the stony path, armed with the map full of notes. The gravel path turns into an uphill forest trail and as I park the bike and walk up, I notice how quiet and calm it is – there’s just distant birdsong and the swish of a gentle breeze in the trees. I see why the Stora Rös viewing point is a good place to get your bearings before exploring the island. As the clearing opens up at the summit, I can see nearly the whole island, as well as all the tiny islands, islets and skerries surrounding Styrsö. There are wooden houses with red roofs, and below, a harbour. There’s a lone yacht moored in the sound, and in the distance a ferry slowly moving along. There’s an ancient cairn here too. Back on the road, it’s still very quiet. That’s because islands are car-free and locals get around the narrow island roads by golf cart – or bicycle. At just 1.58 square kilometres in size, it makes Styrsö a great place for walks, cycling and swimming – the water can be up to 26°C in summer. As I cycle past the tiny Halsvik harbour, a man is tying a small boat to the jetty. Behind, there’s a neat row of red wooden fishing sheds. Along the roads, there are pretty wooden houses with colourful window boxes and immaculate gardens, some containing upturned boats, others with bicycles painted in bright colours. The slow pace of island life makes it a relaxing place to explore. I reached the Gothenburg Archipelago by ferry – around a 20-minute journey from Saltholmen and it’s free to bring a bike on board. To get to Salholmen from Gothenburg city, you can take a tram (around 40 minutes) or cycle – there’s a scenic bike route, or a more direct commuter bike path along the 12km route. There’s a regular ferry between all the islands of the archipelago so the next day, I take a bike on the 15-minute journey to Vrångö, the southernmost island in the archipelago. Vrångö has a large nature reserve, a population of around 400 and a long tradition of fishing, especially for crayfish. There are actually two nature reserves on Vrångö, one north and one south, and the area is an important breeding ground for seabirds and seals. I walk through the southern nature reserve, taking the 4km trail. Here, there’s a Stone Age Cairn, and quiet paths wind past honeysuckle and orchids, with the calls of different songbirds in the warm breeze and views of anchored ships far off out to sea. There’s just enough time for tea and cinnamon cake in the garden of the harbour café, Skargardens Café, before hopping on the ferry back to the guesthouse on Styrsö in time for a crayfish dinner, a browse of the books beside the fire and a sound night’s sleep. Further information: Yvonne stayed at Pensionat Styrsö Skäret, where doubles start at £130 per night. Bicycles are provided free to guests and can be taken free on the ferry. On Vrångö, the self-catering noathouse apartments at Kajkanten start from £60 per night per person. From Gothenburg, bike rental costs from £15 per day with Cykel Kungen. Cycle or take the tram from Gothenburg to Saltholmen and from here take the ferry to Styrsö. For ferry times, see Vasttrafik.se or Styrsobolaget.se. Words and photos by Yvonne Gordon

12 April 2001: The UK Government has announced that self-contained accommodation can now stay open for overnight stays in England for those travelling with their household or support bubble: "You can stay overnight in a campsite, caravan, boat, second home, or other self-contained accommodation. This should only be with your household or support bubble. You must not stay overnight with anyone not in your household or support bubble, unless a legal exemption applies. Self-contained holiday accommodation may reopen. This is accommodation in which facilities are restricted to exclusive use of a single household/support bubble. Such facilities include: kitchens sleeping areas bathrooms indoor communal areas such as lounges, sitting areas and any lifts, staircases or internal corridors for entry and exit into the accommodation 10 March 2021: The latest advice from the UK Government is that "It is illegal to travel abroad from the UK for holidays. Follow current COVID-19 rules where you live". Tuesday 5 January 2021: The UK Government has updated its travel advice: International travel is increasingly restricted. In the UK, different rules apply in England, Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland. For example, in England you must not leave home including to travel abroad, unless you have a legally permitted reason to do so, such as for essential work purposes. If you are legally permitted to travel, check our advice for the country you are visiting. Other countries have closed borders, and may further restrict movement or bring in new rules including testing requirements with little warning. Before you return to the UK you must provide your journey and contact details. Also check if you need to self isolate. Wednesday 23 December 2020: An updated tier system is now in place in the UK. If you are planning to travel in the UK or abroad, do plan carefully in advance and keep to the guidelines see out by the Government. You can check which COVID tiers different areas are currently in using the Governments' postcode tracker. The Government has also issued the following advice: Following identification of a new variant of the virus, international travel from your area may be increasingly restricted because of domestic regulations. Different rules apply in England, Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland. For example, those in tier 4 areas in England will not be permitted to travel abroad apart from limited exceptions, such as work purposes. Follow all the rules that apply to you. For the latest Government advice on travelling in the UK and abroad, see: Covid-19 travel guidance. Thursday 5 November 2020: The British Government has issued the following advice for travelling after 5 November: From 5 November to 2 December 2020, travelling away from home, including internationally, is restricted from England except in limited circumstances such as for work or for education. Different rules apply in Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland. You must follow all the rules that apply to you. The Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office (FCDO) provides guidance on COVID and non-COVID risks overseas. The FCDO currently advises against all but essential travel to many countries and territories on the basis of COVID risks. You should check the travel advice for your destination. Travel disruption is possible worldwide. Other countries may bring in new measures with little notice such as border closures, movement restrictions or quarantine rules. Travellers should be prepared to stay overseas longer than planned. Tuesday 6 October, 2020: The UK Foreign & Commonwealth Office of the UK Government offers this advice for travelling abroad: While the global coronavirus pandemic continues, no travel is risk-free, and your travel abroad may be disrupted. If you plan to travel: • read the coronavirus travel guidance to make sure you are prepared for your travel • read the Travel Advice for your destination, for information on current entry requirements and any local coronavirus measures that you will need to follow • sign up for email alerts for Travel Advice to ensure you are informed of any changes while you are travelling Saturday 4 July 2020: The UK Foreign & Commonwealth Office of the UK Government has today updated its travel advice today to say: "On 4 July our travel advice changed, with exemptions for travelling to certain countries and territories that no longer pose a high risk  for  British travellers. View the  list of exempted destinations.  We continue to advise against non-essential international travel, except to countries and territories listed." For more information, see the FCO's guidance: Plan your travel: checklist. Many of the accommodations, attractions and activities featured on greentraveller.co.uk are now beginning to open up again in light of the current situation but please check directly with the relevant accommodation provider, activity provider, venue or tour operator for the most up to date information. If you are currently travelling, or planning a visit, to any of the accommodations, events, locations or trips featured on greentraveller.co.uk, please abide by the current government guidance in regards to the developing COVID-19 situation: Staying Alert and Safe Coronavirus outbreak FAQs: What you can and can't do and here's the latest government advice on walking, cycling, and travelling in vehicles or on public transport (NB. these two links are for guidance that applies in England – people in other parts of the UK should follow the specific rules in those parts: Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland ) The latest NHS information and advice about coronavirus (COVID-19) 23 March 2020: We want to update you about the latest UK Government advice related to the Coronavirus (COVID-19) pandemic. On 23 March 2020, the UK Government directed that people must stay at home apart from essential travel or they may face penalties. This came into effect immediately and included all non-essential travel within the UK. The UK Government has also issued further guidance to businesses and premises to close, which covers accommodation and other travel and tourism businesses. This step follows the advice issued by the The UK Foreign & Commonwealth Office of the UK Government on 17 March, advising against all non-essential overseas travel, for an initial period of 30 days. For the latest travel advice from the UK Government, visit their website: https://www.gov.uk/guidance/travel-advice-novel-coronavirus Please read this guidance and consider how it applies to your personal circumstances. Many of the accommodations, attractions and activities featured on greentraveller.co.uk have taken the decision to postpone trips, performances and events or to temporarily close their doors in light of the current situation. Please check directly with the relevant accommodation provider, activity provider, venue or tour operator for the most up to date information.

As part of our celebration of the eight Welsh Protected Landscapes, David Atkinson follows a food trail in the Clwydian Range AONB It’s winter over the Clwydian Range. The mist rolls down from the mountains and trees shed their last leaves of the year. I am here to meet Anna Taylor, founder of Chilly Cow Ice Cream in an outbuilding on a rural-idyll dairy farm outside of Ruthin. Inside her dairy it’s time for two scoops of sticky toffee fudge - you see, whatever the weather, every day is an ice cream day for Anna. Resplendent in chef whites with a dainty white mesh hat covering her hair, Anna explains how Chilly Cow is a true artisan cottage industry. "All the ingredients are added by hand - there is a lot of trial and error and," she adds with a smile, "a lot of tasting to be done." The two-women team at Chilly Cow produces 160 litres of ice cream per day during peak production periods, taking their milk from the farm’s 70-head herd of Brown Swiss cows and adding ingredients drawn from a 30-mile radius.The ice cream company is just one of the producers in the Clwydian Range and Dee Valley AONB that is part of a burgeoning food trail that highlights the connections between the unique geology of Northeast Wales and the natural produce it yields. The landscape is lush and well watered with rainfall while the tops of the hills offer a rich pasture for animals to graze. The abundance of heather moorland is even said to lend the mutton and lamb a slightly sweeter flavour. By tracing a self-drive itinerary around a rural heartland of verdant pasture, sturdy market towns and history-touched hilltops, I’m planning to taste my way around the protected area. I start my journey at Café R, located at the Ruthin Craft Centre, chatting with the trail’s chairman, David Jones, over cups of Owen & Edwards organic coffee — produced just eight miles away in Denbigh. “I like the fact I know where my food comes from. I know the people who make it,” says David, a former teacher who now runs a B&B outside Ruthin. He explains the Clwydian Range Food Trail was founded in 2012 and now has 25 members, mostly small-scale producers and business owners, some of which offer tours and tastings to visitors by arrangement. In the year ahead, the group plans to open a pop-up shop to take branded samples to food festivals and launch a Clwydian Range breakfast for local guesthouses and cafes to showcase the variety of local goodies. There are also plans for a Clwydian Range branded picnic box for summer. “There’s a real sense of pride locally,” adds David. “We have chosen to live and work in this place as the landscape is special to us.” On the Road Over the next couple of days I work my way around the trail, taking in traditional cheese at the Little Welsh Cheese Company, sinking a pint of Moel Famau Ale at the Hafod Brewery and stopping for fortifying Welsh Rarebit and hot chocolate at Caffi Florence at the Loggerheads Country Park. Finally, I stock up on Clwydian Range lamb — perfect for Sunday roasts — from Williams Butchers in Denbigh. The range of branded produce from the Clwydian Range Graziers Association helps the conservation of the AONB’s heather moorland. By fostering grazing pasture for their sheep, the graziers support the natural diversity of the moorland habitat. The lamb has a low-food-miles ethos. “You’re buying from the farmers who actually maintain the landscape,” says sheep farmer Rob Hammond of Glyn Arthur Farm. “I like the way the trail encourages everyone to work together to make the most of the local produce available.” New Flavours Back at Stryt Fawr Farm, Chilly Cow Ice Cream is preparing a new Honey and Lavender flavoured ice cream using ingredients from other producers along the trail. This adds to the existing range of 12 flavours, plus three limited editions, now selling in over 50 shops, cafes and hotels across the AONB. The picnic tables wait patiently for summer in the back garden but the small-scale production facility is a hive of activity as Anna gets to grips with the chemistry of perfect ice cream. “The secret ingredient in ice cream is air. The lack of air in our produce ensures a higher quality with a denser, smoother texture,” explains Anna, who turned her back on a career in banking to run her own business in the shadow of the Clwydian Range. “It’s just so beautiful here,” she smiles. “We are self sufficient and we look after the land.” “The same landscape now shapes the flavour of our ice cream,” she adds. “It tastes of home.”

As part of our series on the eight Welsh Protected Landscapes, Sian Lewis walks along the glorious coastal path of Gower Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty in South Wales The Welsh Coastal Path is a glorious achievement. A huge ribbon of 870 miles of trails across some of Britain's most epic coastline, the path was completed in 2014 and now gives walkers the chance to lace up their hiking boots and tramp over green cliffs, through peaceful villages, past wild ponies and above the incoming waves. And there's nowhere better to sample a bite size piece of the path than in Gower Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. There are over 38 miles of walking routes on the peninsula, beginning in the bustling city of Swansea and ending in the wild marshes of Crofty in North Gower. The peninsula may be small but it is a land of great natural beauty and historical gems, all inextricably linked to the sea that encircles it, and just a few days of walking will give you a taste of life in this unique corner of South Wales. Start in Swansea and take a stroll along the promenade. Then pass Mumbles' ice cream shops and pretty pastel houses - soon you'll escape into the empty open spaces of Gower itself. The coastal route meanders through astonishing places - 32 Sites of Special Scientific Interest, 24 Wildlife Trust reserves, 10 nature reserves and five Special Areas of Conservation. For the walker this translates into stumbling across prehistoric burial sites, spotting seals at play in the swell and walking through nature reserves teeming with life. It's no wonder Gower was named Britain's first Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty in 1956 for its natural diversity and the beauty of its limestone coast, sparking the creation of Britain’s other 46 AONBs. There are many gems along the the route, but one of my favourite places is Whiteford Burrows Nature Reserve. This peaceful spot couldn't be further from the bucket-and-spade beaches by Swansea - here are only wild birds and grazing ponies. Follow footpaths from Cwm Ivy Woods and see if you can spot the rare fen orchids sometimes found here. Lonely in the landscape is Whiteford Point Lighthouse (above), a Victorian cast-iron creation built in 1865 that is half-swallowed by the sea at every high tide. As you head towards Crofty and the end of the road, you'll pass the cockle beds where local women once picked the bounty of the sea barefoot, a reminder of how elemental and tough life once was for those who tried to eek out a self-sufficient existence here. For those that aren't looking to take on all 38 epic miles of the Gower Coastal Path at once, there are many stretches that are well suited to smaller explorers or for gentle afternoon strolls. For a family-friendly walk head from Langland Bay up and over the cliffs. After a few hours of easy walking with bright yellow gorse on your right and the booming ocean on your left you'll arrive in gorgeous Caswell Bay, where you can have a well-deserved cuppa in the Surfside Cafe and watch wetsuit-clad paddle boarders ride the waves. For views to take your breath away there's nowhere like Three Cliffs Bay. Start from Penmaen church and soon you'll have your destination in sight, the three green peaks that give this beach its name looming above the far-off sand. If you can resist running out onto the beach as soon as you get there turn back to the dunes and climb up to the ruins of Pennard Castle overlooking the sea. Built in the 12th century by Henry de Beaumont, first Earl of Warwick who obviously had a thing for a nice vista, the castle is now a romantic ruin. I love to stand in one of the remaining archways and look down at the bay; on a clear day you can see all the way to the Devon coast. If you only have time to visit one part of this unchanged coastline, make it iconic Worm's Head. Dictated to by tides and weather, the landscape here is never the same - at low tide there's a causeway to follow and at high tide the Head becomes an enigmatic island, the one that so entranced the Vikings they named it after a sea serpent, or 'Wurm'. Stride past the hardy sheep grazing here and you can look across at the miles of empty sand of Rhossili Bay, broken only by the wooden skeleton of a shipwreck - the Helvetia, lost here in 1887 and now being slowly reclaimed by the ocean. Before you leave have a well-deserved pint in Worm's Head Hotel terrace and watch the waves breaking on the beach below. Find more information on Gower section of the Wales Coast Path. Visit Swansea Bay lists walks along Gower path, graded by length and difficulty.

Paul Miles visits Castell Henllys Iron Age fort in the heart of the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park, for some ancient Celtic fun... “Are you going to get your faces painted!?” teased the bus driver, when we boarded the 412 bus at Fishguard and asked to be dropped off at the turning for Castell Henllys. We were two men in our 40s, interested in learning about how the Celts lived. Would the only iron-age fort in Britain where roundhouses of mud and thatch have been constructed on the original site be overrun with unruly schoolchildren daubed in woad? Just 35 minutes later, we were wandering down a country lane edged with orchids, campion and violets. After half a mile, beyond an abandoned cottage, a small church presents a curiosity in the form of a window shaped as a Star of David. A note in the porch explains that it was a gift from a local Jewish family that used the building as a synagogue. Next, we passed a wooden totem pole carved with beasts and men, topped with a set of large antlers. We were leaving our world of modern religions and entering one where nature is worshipped but not before going through a car park to reception and paying an entrance fee. As we had arrived by public transport, we qualified for concession rate, just £3.50 each rather than £4.75. Each thatched roundhouse can fit a surprising amount of people! © Crown Copyright (2012) Visit Wales A gurgling stream – Nant Duad – passes through the site, overhung with trees and more wildflowers. Otters have been seen here and we sat for a while, sipping coffee (nettle tea wasn’t an option from the drinks’ machine). Appropriately enough, there is little in the way of modern marketing: a few books on the Celts and some wooden toy swords in the reception but no café or multi-media experience, just a grass-roofed education centre and some audio-information points that are powered by winding a handle. The first ‘talking sculpture’ is near reception. Between squeaks of the mechanism, a lilting Welsh voice informs us that there was no electricity 2,600 years ago and that people would look after things well. “If you wanted a coat, you would have to sheer a sheep and then spin the wool before weaving it, or get your mum to help you.” On top of a low hill, a circle of five beautifully thatched roundhouses look like something you might stumble across in the Amazon jungle, but surrounded by verdant pastoral land instead of impenetrable forest. We peek into a house, inside are bundles of thin wooden stems. This turns out to be willow, as, in another house, we watch as a woman dressed in a rustic brown jumper and long woollen skirt teaches a dozen children how to weave a basket and explains how the willow is first soaked in the stream. In another house, children are being taught how to make bread. They grind the wheat between stones, mix the flour with water and place it on a skillet over the fire in the centre of the smoke-darkened house. Then their Celtic ‘mum’ begins to paint their faces. “I give you the power of Cerenunnos, the god of hunting,” she says to the first boy, while tracing a delicate blue pattern over his forehead. The children are entranced and it is delightful to watch. For adults, who are shy of getting their face painted, there are guided tours, twice a day (11.30am and 2.30pm) where incredibly knowledgeable guides such as Roger Anglezarke-Tyrer will enthuse about anything and everything to do with the people we now call the Celts, a word that means ‘hidden’ and lent its name to the kilt. You can even have a go at weaving your own kilt, using wool, from rare breed sheep (like the ones grazing in a meadow below the fort) and coloured with vegetable dyes. From this vantage point on the hilltop, which is where the warrior caste would have lived, we can see the Preseli hills through the mist. “They were an enormously important trading route”, explains Roger. “Gold would have come from Ireland, brought ashore at what is now Fishguard and been carried over the hills to Foeldrigarn, a huge iron age hill fort with some 200 houses, where there is also a bronze age cemetery.” One of the strangest tales he tells, is not just how the stones that make up Stonehenge were dragged from a quarry at the base of the Preseli hills, but that a new twist on the theory proposes that this ancient stone circle was relocated from a site just an arrow’s flight away. “We’re not sure if it’s true, but it’s good news for us,” he says, with a smile. Castell Henllys appears in the Visitor Attractions section of our Guide to the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park. The guide also includes a range of green (and gorgeous!) accommodation, the best places to find local food and some of the region's most sustainable activity providers. >> Castell Henllys is owned and managed by the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park Authority. From more information, visit www.castellhenllys.com or call 01239 891319

As we launch our Green Traveller's Guide to the New Forest, Philippa Jacks meets with Anthony Climpson OBE, the man in charge of the New Forest, to hear how the management of the ancient forest park is at the forefront of sustainable tourism in the UK. What makes a great place for tourism in England is a place where, as soon as you arrive, you know you're somewhere different. With the New Forest, it's physical, and it's spiritual too. There’s a sense of peace and tranquillity and renewal. It's one of the only places in the country where you don't have to go to a museum to see what England was like hundreds of years ago. [Three donkeys saunter past the window of the Beaulieu pub, mid-interview]. Look at that! Where else are you going to see that? How many visitors come here? It's very hard to measure how many visitors we now get, but we estimate around 10 million 'days visited' each year. The vast majority of our visitors are couples. It's romantic, an exotic place where you can lose yourself. We used to get mainly older visitors but there’s lots of younger people coming now – that’s the area we want to grow. Do local people embrace tourism? When I started 20 years ago, I was told, "don't do any marketing - that'll bring more people". I wrote a report called Living With The Enemy that tried to help residents understand the benefits that tourism could bring. We’ve resolved a lot of the conflict now. We’ve launched a campaign called 'Brand New Forest', to encourage support of local businesses. The campaign helps local people to ‘see’ the visitor experience, and understand the economic contribution tourism makes. I see tourism as the new agriculture - it's a way of earning a living from the landscape without farming the landscape. The opening of Lime Wood Hotel was one of the key turning points in the development of the New Forest.What have been turning points in the New Forest’s development? Creating the New Forest Tourism Association (NFTA) in 1989 to promote and manage the destination was crucial. We’ve seen RDAs (regional development agencies) and DMOs (destination marketing organisations) come and go, but the NFTA is still alive and kicking and growing stronger every minute. Secondly, the foot and mouth crisis in 2001, which was the first time there was a definite camaraderie between the tourism industry and the commoners. We stuck by the commoners and shut the forest to tourists, rather than killing all the animals. Third, the opening of Lime Wood Hotel in 2009 – it was such an exciting project. Are New Forest tourism businesses on board with sustainability? Yes - our Green Leaf accreditation scheme has been very successful, and we’re raising the bar each year, as it evolves to become the norm. It’s better to have 100% of suppliers doing 10% more, than to have 10% of suppliers doing 100% more. A lot of the green message is so desperate that it repels people, but once suppliers realise it’s good for business, they’re sold. What does sustainability mean to you? A lot of people get very highfaluting about it but at it's most simple, it's taking account of people's interests. You have to show them that sustainability and consuming less is in their best interest. I used to drive at higher speeds, but now I drive at 50 mph and I consume half the diesel – it’s a very simple proposition. How geared-up for green travel is the New Forest? It’s a difficult issue – how do you get people to go around a place like this without a car? It’s so easy by car, and you can put so much stuff in it. But every hotel will pick you up from the train station, and Brockenhurst station is as well-served by trains as most cities in the country. The New Forest is also an excellent destination for cycling. There's nowhere else in England with 150 miles of interlinked cycle track and there are several cycle-hire places in the forest. One of my little dreams is to bring back pony and traps – it’s a great way to reinforce agriculture, create jobs, and calm traffic and it’s a lovely way to see the forest. What’s your favourite time of year in the forest? Autumn and spring are exceptionally fulfilling. From the end of April, the colour of green is psychedelic for about a month. Last year we had the brightest autumn colours for 80 years here in the New Forest. And where’s your favourite spot? Mark Ash Wood – a beech wood in the centre of the forest near Bolderwood. There’s a mile-wide crater with trees all around, and in autumn the beech leaves are five inches thick. It’s really magical and spooky, just amazing. More information: thenewforest.co.uk/information

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to the New Forest, Philippa Jacks gets a duck's eye view of the New Forest by canoeing along the Beaulieu River. I admit, I am partial to a venison steak. But when my instructor Sam explains to me the difference between a canoe and a kayak, I wonder exactly what kind of river-borne I’ve signed myself up for. "Canoes are designed for deer-hunting on rivers, and kayaks are better for hunting seals,” he says. “You can't carry a deer carcass on a kayak," he points out. I had rather hoped to avoid slaying any large mammals today. But it soon becomes clear that the only thing we're likely to do to deers on this tour is take photos. Sam’s company, New Forest Activities, offers both canoeing and kayaking on the peaceful Beaulieu River. It’s easy to see how this little pocket of the New Forest earned the name of ‘beautiful place’. The water is cool and calm and the only noise is the splash of my badly-coordinated paddling, and the calls of moorhens and coots. Sam is as much a tour guide as he is an instructor, and he gives us a crash-course in Beaulieu history and New Forest flora and fauna as we paddle gently up the river. I learn that Beaulieu was home to an important shipyard in the 18th and 19th centuries, even building warships for Admiral Nelson. During the Second World War, there was a large airfield here, and this sleepy village was to be the last line of defence if the enemy ever sailed up the river from the coast. Beaulieu River is the only privately-owned river in the country, and Lord Montagu owns the surrounding countryside too. From my canoe, I can just about make out the bright red doors of those cottages that still belong to his estate. It’s a very exclusive stretch of riverbank, and the land here is some of the most expensive in the country. You don’t need to be a millionaire to enjoy canoeing or kayaking though – a standard two hour tour costs £28 per person which includes equipment and tuition. All carcass-carrying aside, the key difference between the canoes and the kayaks used by New Forest Activities is that the canoes are open, while the kayaks have a closed-cockpit. The canoes are perfect for families and pairs to share, while the kayaks are paddled solo. Where to stay The four-star Montagu Arms at Beaulieu is one of the smartest hotels in the New Forest. With oak paneled rooms, log fires and ivy-covered walls, it’s the quintessential country house retreat. There are 26 individually-styled rooms, ranging from a standard double to a spacious deluxe suite with its own living area. I loved the chunky wooden keyrings that make it impossible to lose your room-key, and the fenced seating area at the front of the hotel which means you can enjoy a pint or a glass of wine and watch out for passing New Forest donkeys. The Montagu Arms is a member of the New Forest’s Green Leaf scheme, and recently created a kitchen garden which now grows much of its own seasonal produce. There is casual dining in Monty’s Inn, or fine-dining in the Michelin-starred restaurant called The Terrace, where I enjoyed a deliciously-rich roast saddle of venison (of course). The waiter even brought our petit-fours up to my suite so we could enjoy them tucked under the duvet on the sofa. If your budget doesn’t stretch to staying here, treat yourself to afternoon tea served in the pretty gardens or conservatory at the back of the hotel.