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- Green Traveller's Guide to Lake Garda, Italy
Lake Garda (Lago di Garda), in Northern Italy, is the largest lake in Italy and a mecca for activity holidays. It's about half-way between Milan and Venice, is surrounded by mountains, often snow-capped, and, thanks to its micro-climate, it is internationally known for its production of olive oil and wine. Popular towns included Bardolino, Malcesine and Brenzone on the eastern shore and Limone, Tremosine, Gargnano and Salò, to the west. Desenzano, Sirmione, Peschiera lie towards the south of the lake and are the most accessible by train from Verona. Here is my green guide to Lake Garda based on my recent trip to the region as part of our SprInterRail Sporting Adventure around Europe with RailEurope, plus a selection of the many tips that have been sent in by readers via our twitter account: @greentraveller and via the Green Traveller Facebook page. See our Video Guide to Lake Garda: Where to stay Lefay Resort & Spa A stylish, sustainable sanctuary in the beautiful “Riviera dei Limoni”, on the West Coast of Lake Garda, half way between Milan and Venice. The resort is surrounded on all sides by vineyards, woodlands, and olive and lemon terraces. Each room has sweeping watery views and is designed to make the most of the natural light: wide spaces, natural fabrics, huge picture windows fill the rooms with light. In terms of sustainability, this place really stands out from the crowd. Our room had a whole book dedicated to the various state-of-the-art initiatives the hotel has done to reduce it's draw on energy and reduce waste. There’s a biomass system fed by wood chips, micro-turbines, complex insulation systems, and lots more. The food here is fabulous too; not just at dinner, where you'll enjoy classic high standards of Italian cuisine, but also the breakfast was just about the best we've yet come across... everything from cereals, to pastries, cakes, meat, cheese, yogurts, cooked breakfasts... there was even a huge juicer with a table laid out of various fruits and vegetables for you to select. We found it hard to leave! Hotel Elda Named after Andrea’s grandmother Elda (who opened the restaurant here in 1949), this is a genuine, honest place to stay with stylish, designer interiors, grassy meadows views, affordable rates, and – best of all - perfect Italian hospitality. It may be a bit off the beaten track, but this only adds its charm – an ideal choice if you’re looking to escape the hustle and bustle of modern life. The smart glass-fronted restaurant serves up creative yet traditional grub, and there’s a spa with Turkish bath, sauna and treatments available for guests too. This is a relaxing place to stay, but the hotel does have a serious side too – Andrea is a staunch believer in protecting the natural environment and has created a hotel with eco principles. Scuderia Castello Scuderia is a great place to go just for a few hours horse-riding (see below), but you can also stay overnight in comfortable but basic rooms - at just 35 per person a night. The farm is pretty much self-sufficient for its energy needs: on the roof there are 60 square meter photovoltaic panels that produce 5,500-6,000 kW annually. Plus the food is largely home-made or locally sourced. We have a fantastic lunch of local cheeses, salami washed down with local Rose and finished with Giovanni's grappa. Where to eat Antico Brolo High in the hills of Gardone Riviera, and tucked away in a quiet courtyard with walls covered in ivy, is this smart little place. A glass of prosecco on arrival is a welcome offering from the friendly owners. Portions are generous, and the food fabulous - it’s worth going for the bread basket ‘ship’ alone. Try the truffle pasta and finish off with the sambuca parfait or Fragolini Selvatici con vanilla (wild strawberries with vanilla). Simple, straight-forward cuisine, an unpretentious setting, and relaxed staff. La Tortuga This elegant, intimate Michelin-starred restaurant is just steps from the lapping shore of Lake Garda. Not surprisingly, the menu is filled with rustic fish dishes. The restaurant also has a comprehensive wine cellar. What to do Sirmione Peninsula The fallen columns and crumbling ancient walls hint at this Sirmione’s historical past – affluent Romans flocked here to enjoy the thermal springs. Two thousand years on and little has changed – Sirmione continues to be a popular destination for holidaymakers in search of a bit of R&R. The peninsula, which juts out into the lake on the southern side, is guarded by Rocca Scalgera, a medieval castle built by a wealthy family from Verona as an expression of their wealth. It makes an interesting place to wander around after a relaxing time in the thermal baths. Horse-riding You can’t really beat Lake Garda as a spot for horse-riding; saddle up and set off to explore enchanting valleys, wildflower meadows, quaint Italian villages, and steep mountain trails; and wherever you are, you’ve got that beautiful expanse of blue water glistening in the distance. Scuderia Castello, a farm immersed in 60 hectares of chestnut woods and pastures, is one of the original horse-riding centres in the area and it offers various different options, from treks by the hour to week-long courses. From €25 per hour. The farm also has B&B rooms and food if you are after the full experience (see below). www.scuderiacastello.it Centomiglia Regatta Every September, hundreds of boats take to the water for the oldest regatta in Italy – the Centomiglia. The first race took place in 1951 with just 17 boats; these days over two hundred boats take to the water in an exciting and colourful display. If you’re planning to be in the area at this time of year, it’s well worth heading down to Gargnano to watch the nautical procession leave the port. Canyoning If you’ve haven’t yet experienced the thrills and delights of canyoning – of scrambling over slippery rocks and being pummelled by waterfalls, diving into pools of ice-cold water and being swept downriver by natural currents – then Lake Garda is a good place to try it out. There are lots of outdoor centres dotted around the lake and over 30 different routes, so whether you’re new to this watersporting craze or you're a bit of a pro, there is something to keep everyone happy. Parco Natura Viva is a nature park and centre for protection of fauna at risk on our planet, which houses more than 1,500 animals belonging to 200 different species in large open spaces surrounded by countryside. Parco Natura Viva is located in Bussolengo, 43 miles from Gargnano. Open from March to November. Parco Natura Viva is a nature park and centre for the protection of endangered animals, in Bussolengo, 43 miles from Gargnano. It is home to about 200 different species. Open from March to November. Popular Food and Wine Festivals 28-31 May: Festival of Garda Classico wine in Polpenazze 5th and 6th June: "Italia in Rosa", Moniga del Garda & Lazise, Festival of Chiaretto wine and olive oil on the two shores of the lake. Boats provide transport between the two festivals. August: Festival of Wine in San Martino della Battaglia, Desenzano del Garda September: Centomigilia Sailing Regatta: Lake Garda becomes the setting for one of the most important sailing regattas in Europe. The Centomiglia is the longest regatta on internal waters in Europe. The action starts from the small port of Bogliaco. Getting to Lake Garda We travelled to Desenzano station at the southern end of the lake. There are several ways to travel there, thanks to the new Thello sleeper service from Paris to Verona. Alternatively, you could take the high-speed TGV train from Paris to Turin or Milan, stay overnight, then continue in the morning to Verona. For more information about travelling by train to Italy, see our unique journey planner: Train from London to Italy. -- This green guide to Lake Garda was researched and compiled by Florence Fortnam, Richard Hammond and Andy Hix. Thanks to Tiggy Dean and Lefay Resort & SPA Lago di Garda for hosting Green Traveller.
- Green Traveller's Guide to Antwerp, Belgium
Belgium's second city is probably best known as the country's fashion capital. Despite its long and rich history, it is the city's present day dynamism that gives it an edge over other medieval towns in Belgium, packed with trendy bars and cafes, modern art exhibitions and festivals. The juxtaposition of the old and the new make it a great city break destination, especially as it's just under three hours by train from London St Pancras International Train Station. Here are a few of things I saw on my recent trip to the city as part of our Great InterRail Adventure with Rail Europe, plus a selection of the many tips that were sent in by readers via our twitter account: @greentraveller and via our facebook page. Thanks to all those who sent in recommendations. Next stop is Cologne! What to do 1. Antwerpen Centraal Train Station: Before heading into town, it’s worth admiring the magnificent architecture of the late 19th century train station, one of the city’s main landmarks. 2. Fashion: The Fashion Department of the Royal Academy for Fine Arts of the Hogeschool Antwerp is one of the worlds leading fashion design schools. If fashion is your thing, don't miss the Fashion Museum on Nationalestraat, home to the famous Antwerp fashion designers, Dries Van Noten and Ann Demeulemeester, and a host of designer labels. I spent a few hours here and visited the fair trade and environmentally conscious fashion shop Today is a good day. There are several other ethical trading shops on Nationalestraat, such as Rewind and Hadhi. There's also a wide range of shops and many more chi-chi boutiques on Schutterhofstraat. 3. Museums and galleries Head to Kloosterstraat for antiques and galleries and stroll along the river to the contemporary art museum, Muhka. The mansion where Rubens lived between 1610 and his death in 1640 , at Wapper 9-11 (rubenshuis.be) has 10 of the artist's works and gives an absorbing insight into Flemish fine living in the 17th century. 4. Admire Europe's oldest printing presses The home of 16th century bookbinder and printer Christoffel Plantin is now the UNESCO listed Plantin Moretus Museum. It is believed to be one of the world's finest printing museums; housing an extensive collection of books and some of our oldest printing presses. If printing doesn't float your boat it is still worth a visit, the grounds and house are a beautiful place to wander around and there are often rotating art exhibitions and events. Info: The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10am to 5pm. Tickets are available until 4.30pm. Admission is 6 Euros, which includes an audio guide. www.museumplantinmoretus.be 5. Step into the extravagance of Belgium's past At the end of the 19th century, two wealthy entrepreneurs, Joséphine Cogels Osy and her brother Baron Edouard Osy decided to develop a new area for the rich residents of Antwerp. This extravagant design is still on full display today as you wander through the Cogels Osy area stumbling upon a French Chateau, a Venetian Palazzo, a Greek temple and eccentric Art Nouveau buildings. While in the area stop off at Dageraad Plaats, a huge square full of bars and cafes. Info: The Cogels Osy area is in the Zurenborg district, in the south east of Antwerp, near the railway station Antwerpen Berchem. Where to eat and drink 1. Mama Matrea serves fusion food that they call 'soul food', because of their eco philosophy alongside hosting a range of cultural and musical performers. For groups of five or more it is worth booking and ordering the 'table matrea', which offers a communal feast of appetisers, followed by a meat, fish and tasty salads. Info: Every Wednesday evening the restaurant offer a starter and a main for an incredible 5 Euros. www.mamamatrea.com/Dagverse-creatieve-fusion-wereldkeuken 2. Café-restaurant Zuiderterras resembles a moored ship in both design and position. Sat on the River Scheldt, near the cruise terminal, this is the perfect spot to watch the comings and goings from Europe's largest port. The building, created by Bob van Reeth, has large window frames and mirrors to create a spacious environment and a closer connection to the river. In summer a terrace makes this the perfect place for a sunny brunch. The menu offers a variety of dishes from breakfast to dinner, all prepared with fresh ingredients on site. Info: A main meal costs between 19-32 Euros. www.zuiderterras.be 3. Kulminator is the best place to go for a famous Belgian beer in Antwerp. With a beer menu 30 pages long, there must be a pint to suit everyone! The rustic bar is fully equipped with board games and cards so you can happily while away a few hours. Info: A beer here is average price for the city. You can find Kulminator on Vleminckveld 32, near the Latin quarter and Kathedraal. Where to stay Green Traveller stayed at the Radisson Blu Astrid Hotel conveniently located directly opposite the Antwerpern Centraal train station. The breakfast room has wonderful views overlooking Astrid Sqaure and the magnificent 19th-century station. Over 1,600 reviewers who have rated this hotel with our booking partner, booking.com, gave it a score of 'Very good, 8.4'. For more hotels near the main train station, see: Hotels near Antwerp Train Station. Boulevard Leopold , a luxury B&B in Antwerp’s traditional Jewish quarter. What the locals say For local insights from an Antwerp resident and fashion enthusiast see the blog Faces and Places of Antwerp or check out the Antwerp postings on Spotted by Locals How to get there There's a direct train from St Pancras to Brussels where you change and 45 minutes later arrive at Antwerpen Centraal. If you leave London at 11am you can be enjoying moules et frites in Antwerp by 3pm. For more information on the journey to Antwerp by train see our Overland Journey Planner: Train from London to Antwerp. == By Richard Hammond with help from Holly Tuppen. Thanks to Stad Antwerpen for hosting us and to Visit Flanders for helping organise our visit to Belgium. We'll be back!
- Green Traveller's Guide to La Rochelle, France
In combination with our guide to Ile de Ré, Ginny Light provides a guide to La Rochelle, with tips where to stay, eat and visit based on her visit to the west coast of France this summer. If La Rochelle sounds familiar and you are not exactly sure why, perhaps it is taking you back to the clatter of the classroom and a stern "asseyez-vous". For generations of British schoolchildren, French lessons and La Rochelle became synonymous thanks to the illustrious series of French language textbooks, Tricolore. A short ferry, train or plane ride and the daily comings and goings of a bakery-owning family in the port city can become a reality and a chance for ‘les rosbifs’ to brush up on their long-lost French. La Rochelle is on the Atlantic coast in the Charente Maritime region. Its proximity to the UK has long made it popular day trip destination as well as offering a stopping off point for the islands of Ré, Aix and Oléron. It has a large marina so welcomes cruise ships and yachties in addition to Parisians in search of some sea air and fresh seafood. The most striking and enduring feature of La Rochelle is its elegant pale facades. The limestone buildings and arched pavement arcades have aged gently and elegantly and are especially magnificent at sunset when they glow in the long, low light. Indeed, for centuries, writers and artists have spoken of the light in this part of the Atlantic coast, and the luminous effect it has on this ancient port city. Rain or shine, the arches are an effective cover for shoppers drawn to the boutiques and cafes of the city’s historic centre. Many visitors while away a few hours hunting a souvenir stripy t-shirt or pot of sea salt from nearby Ile de Ré (more below on what to buy). Rather like Pisa’s leaning tower, parts of the substrata beneath the city are soft, so in places the buildings gently list to one side as the foundations slowly subside into the mud below. Despite the sinking foundations and years of salt-weathering, a huge amount of medieval architecture remains, notably the medieval timber frame buildings that clad in slate to protect the wood from the elements. This is mixed with ornate Renaissance houses and mansions of the 18th ship owners who profited from trade links with Canada. What to do The hub of the city remains Vieux Port and it is here that most visitors begin their trip. The mis-matched entry towers of St Nicholas and the shorter Tour de la Chaine, whose top was blown off by some badly stored ammunition in the 17th century, are a starting point for visitors. The chain that used to hang between them to prevent ships from entering the port at night without paying their taxes, now hangs, weatherworn and gnarly, between some bollards on the quayside. While the café-lined streets and two medieval towers remain unchanged, development is afoot to bring about more broad promenades to the port. The quayside was pedestrianised in 2015 and now the hope is that the ambling tourists of Vieux Port can be encouraged to explore more of Le Gabut and the area around the former fishing docks. When the work to what will be known as Square Valin is complete in July, the two harbours of Vieux Port and Chalutiers will be joined by wide pavements, a playground and trees. The fishing boats that once docked in Chalutiers now use Chef Baie-La Rochelle harbour outside the town. It was not a popular move among all quarters. While some residents and visitors complained of the ‘mauvaise odeur’ from the fishing boats that brought the oysters, langoustines and sea snails to the café tables, the fishermen were reluctant to give up their city-centre spot, but the former were victorious and regeneration of Chalutiers continues apace. There’s still a fresh maritime smell in the air but it hints more at garlic from the local cafes than fish guts. What was the fish market is now a conference and events space and next to it is a vast glass building housing a state-of-the-art aquarium. The harbour is also home to the Maritime Museum, which incorporates a Météo France frigate for a chance to learn about meteorology as well as a tug boat and trawler to climb aboard. The area provides a good day’s entertainment, especially for families, who can skip the five-minute walk from Vieux Port to Chalutiers by taking the solar-powered boat from the foot of Tour de la Chaine. Le Gabut is a stark contrast to the rest of the city with its brightly painted clapboard buildings that were conceived by a Danish architect inspired by his homeland. A scroll through online travel forums reveals mixed reviews for the area but much is being done to address this, starting with a new initiative for this year. In a patch of unused land the city authorities have given the green light to an experimental arts and dining venue called Belle du Gabut. The courtyard space looks like something out of Copenhagen’s boho Christiania district with its fairy lights, graffiti and salvaged furniture. It is open everyday from midday to midnight and is host to a varied programme of film, music and art. There’s outdoor drinking and dining, a children’s play area in the shade and a dance floor, should the mood take you. The space is expected to be open until the autumn. Where to stay Hotel Le Champlain is handy for Vieux Port, market and shopping streets, just off Place de Verdun, where the buses terminate from the airport and from Ile de Ré. It is a sensitively refurbished Best Western with plenty of charm - antiques, a sunny courtyard for breakfast and a rather grand stone staircase. Rooms from E89 per night. Where to eat L’Entracte is a chic little eatery one street back from Vieux Port in the restaurant-lined rue Saint-Jean du Pérot. The E19 ‘formule express’ menu is excellent value for a dish and dessert, or pay E22.50 to add a glass of wine and coffee. The food is fresh and locally sourced with an emphasis on clean, simple flavours and a range of classic and more quirky dishes. My haddock tartare on the more expensive Menu Plaisir (E32 for three courses) was delicate and fresh, although it is the beef tartare, prepared at the table, for which this restaurant is better-known. Le Bar André in the shadow of the Tour de la Chaine is a La Rochelle institution popular with residents, yacht sailors and tourists alike. The E23 daily menu is good value for three courses or there is a choice of lavish seafood platters with the most extravagant, The Royal Andre (E59), including lobster, langoustines, prawns, oysters, clams and winkles. My cod brandade, a sort of fish pie in which the mashed potato is mixed with the fish and then grilled, was simple and tasty. Where to shop For self-catering holidaymakers, the most affordable grocery shopping is in the large supermarkets on the outskirts of the city. However, a more immersive shopping experience can be had at the daily market in Place du Marché. Do as the La Rochelle residents do and ask to try before you buy. The selection of cheeses, breads, ham, fish, wine, fruit, vegetables and tarts include a great deal of regional delicacies that would make a good picnic. Most of the produce will not travel, but salt makes a good souvenir, packaged in little jars with a tiny wooden spoon. Salt is one of the main local products in La Rochelle. Photo: Ginny LightSea salt businesses have undergone a resurgence on Ile de Ré with two main types produced. The most expensive, fleur de sel, is the pure white sea salt that is gently raked off the top of the salt that is left behind once the seawater has evaporated. The cheaper sel de marin is coloured grey by the clay that mixes with it when it is collected from the bed of the salt marshes. Esprit de Sel on rue Bletterie has outlets across the region and sells elegantly packaged salt as well as herby salt mixtures for marinades. While the odd chain store is represented in La Rochelle’s historic shopping streets, many of the retailers are independent, with holiday fashion such as sandals, beach bags and cotton t-shirts aplenty. Rue des Merciers seems to specialise in smart French childrenswear, meanwhile the further one gets towards the port, the more stripes appear, with shops such as Esprit Marin on Cours des Dames offering Breton tops of every colour and style. Getting around La Rochelle was one of the first French cities to introduce free bicycles in 1976 and ever since has embraced a low-impact public transport system. Like other free schemes, the bikes soon disappeared, with sightings reported from as far afield as South Africa. Now a payment scheme is in place with 49 bike stations dotted around the city and a deposit system in place to deter souvenir hunters. The Yelo scheme is free for the first 30 minutes and costs E1 per 30 minutes up to two hours and E3 per 30 minutes beyond two hours. The same branding exists across the bus network, which is part-electric and the sea bus, which operates from the old port to the former fishing port and marina courtesy of a solar powered boat. Getting there By train: There's a direct train from Paris to La Rochelle, which is just over 3 hours, but from this July the LGV fast train will launch between Paris and La Rochelle reducing the journey time to 2.5 hours. >> See Greentraveller's journey planner: Train from London to La Rochelle By ferry: The closest ferry port, St Malo, is about 3.5 hour’s drive away. It is served from the UK by Brittany Ferries. By plane: Direct flights to La Rochelle Airport are operated by Easyjet from Gatwick and B More information: holidays-la-rochelle.co.uk ==== Disclosure: Ginny Light was a guest of the French Tourist Office, Atout France. She has full editorial control of the review, which is written in her own words based on her experience of visiting Ile de Ré in June 2017. All opinions are the author’s own.
- Green Traveller's Guide to Ile de Ré, France
In combination with our guide to La Rochelle, here is Green Traveller's blogger Ginny Light's guide to the idyllic island of Ile de Ré on the west coast of France, with tips where to stay, eat and visit based on her visit there this summer. Until a bridge joined the Ile de Ré to the mainland in 1988 it was accessible only by boat and was a holiday spot primarily for wealthy Parisiens who did their best to keep it a secret. Nowadays, a 3km bridge spans the stretch of Atlantic Ocean across from La Rochelle so it's much easier to reach this island idyll. The local authorities have done a fabulous job maintaining Ile de Ré as a gentile island backwater thanks to some stringent construction regulations. If you're looking for a tranquil island retreat, this is the place to come (although August is best avoided when the French descend en masse for their ‘grandes vacances’). There are ten villages on the island and any would work as a base for a family, couple or group looking to explore the island. Twin centre breaks are possible, but given the size of the island, most explore from one point. Saint Martin de Ré, the capital, La Flotte and Ars-en-Ré are centred around pretty harbours, meanwhile Le Bois Plage en Ré has the most seaside resorty-feel and Ste Marie de Ré is the oldest village on the coast. These are the slightly larger centres with more accommodation and shops, and most have play areas, tennis courts, spas, daily markets and other services. The south side of the island has the largest sandy beaches, and while the north-west still has spectacular beaches, it tends to be less well visited. Here the beaches are backed by forests and salt marshes, both easily explored by bike. Comparisons with the Riviera abound, presumably because of the nature of the visitors from France’s political and social elite. As far as this writer is concerned, there is no comparison - ok, the Atlantic is a little fresher than the Mediterranean, but the Ile de Ré is less stuffy, from a meteorological and attitude sense, less expensive (a harbourside moules frites can be had for 12€), and far more accessible thanks to the network of flat cycle paths, open to... Any age With the highest point above sea level at a lofty 19 metres, and with electric bikes, child seats and trailers widely available, there is nothing to stop visitors of any age enjoying the Ile de Re by bicycle. This is most definitely not a destination for the lycra-clad crowd. For children, it is a great chance to get to the beach under their own steam. The next village, offering refreshment, sun cream, beach buckets or just a sit down, is never too far away. It is also a chance to give the map to your kids and let them guide you to the next stopping off point, which brings me to… Getting lost There are 100km of cycle paths across the island and not all of them are clearly signposted. The cycle map, while helpful to a point because it has a table showing distances between all of the villages, does not have road names so needs to be combined with a street map or smart phone mapping app to find one’s way around. That said, it is the getting lost down hollyhock-lined cobbled streets that is one of the great pleasures of cycling the Ile de Ré. Get lost among the whitewashed houses and blue, green and grey shutters with just the rattle of the bicycle frame for company and the resplendent... Blooms The Ile de Ré is festooned with flowers throughout the summer. The most notable is the rose trémières, or hollyhock, which establishes itself in every pavement crack and blooms all summer with its crepe-like flowers of pink, purple and cream. In places great care has been taken to cultivate flowerbeds along parts of the cycle track where hollyhocks mix with salvia, sea lavender and garlic. Nature lovers should take the time to visit the Lilleau des Niges nature reserve in the north-west. Samphire and mustard plants grow among its salt marshes in the summer, meanwhile the birdlife is boosted by migrant visitors such as the Brent Goose and Great Plover. Tables offer self-service salt shops with produce harvested the old fashioned way from basins dug into the marshes that fill with sea water that evaporates leaving behind crystals of salt. It is here that the donkeys in pyjamas once plied their trade, their legs dressed in stripey fabric to protect them from mosquitoes. The legend is kept alive for the benefit of young visitors to the island, but nowadays donkeys just help out with soap production, which utilises their milk. Maison du Fier museum on the reserve has a number of interactive exhibits about the flora and fauna which are great for families. Most of the exhibits are still in French but gradually more is being translated into English. The museum sells cold drinks, nature-centred souvenirs and offers various tours of the reserve. Entrance costs 5€. Most visit by bike or car, but it’s also possible to paddle board around the salt marshes, one of the island’s many other sporting offerings... Beyond bikes Beyond cycling, the beaches, great seafood and historic streets, the Ile de Réé offers a huge range of sports. The Atlantic breeze makes for superb sailing be it scenic boat trips or sailing lessons, windsurfing and kitesurfing, meanwhile there are a number of paddle boarding, kayak and fishing outlets (www.iledere-nautisme.com). Most of the villages have tennis courts, playgrounds and the obligatory minigolf, while there’s also horse riding and Nordic walking. Speed junkies might prefer jetskiing, wakeboarding, waterskiing and ‘donut’ rides where an inflatable ring is pulled behind a boat at high speed. But mostly life on the island is serene, thanks in part to... Rules and Regulations Rustic, rural tranquility does not happen on its own - there are countless rules and regulations that ensure that the Ile de Ré does not become a victim of its own success. Buildings over two storeys and large-scale hotel developments are banned, no construction work, private or commercial can be carried out over the summer, all shutters and doors on the island must be painted one of 16 authorised shades of blue, green and grey, and cyclists should not cycle on the main roads, and conversely many roads bear a ‘no entry’ sign with the exception of ‘sauf cycles’. There are no overhead cables, no traffic lights, no billboards, no rubbish, and no construction is allowed on the beach unless a building existed previously. No laws can stop the traffic stopping... Ice cream One of the major causes of traffic jams in the Saint Martin de Ré harbour each summer? La Martinière ice cream shop. So famous is this ice cream maker that it is spoken of on the streets of Paris, despite not having any shops beyond the Ile de Ré. Disciples come for the 66 flavours, with new additions each year (apple and honey or pine nut were new this year) and staples such as salted caramel which incorporates the fleur de sel that is collected in the island’s salt marshes. It is the caviar of salts. For the brave there is ice cream made using the local potato or oyster flavour, also of Ile de Ré provenance. One of the latest outposts is at Le Phare des Baleines, a lighthouse popular for its epic views of the island. Also best viewed from the air are the fish locks, an ancient way of catching fish by flooding a pool with seawater then filtering the outgoing water to leave behind the catch. Magnificent in their scale and simplicity, they arc out elegantly from the foot of the lighthouse and adjoining museum. Where to shop The shopping is rather sophisticated for an island of Ile de Ré’s size, perhaps a reflection of its cosmopolitan visitors. There are countless clothing and antique shops among the souvenirs, homewares and local produce shops. La Sardine in Saint Martin de Ré sells well made leather goods, meanwhile Chapellerie Comme au Marché does an excellent line in Panama style hats, fishermen’s hats and caps and Esprit du Sel is the place to go for marsh-harvested sea salt. Most of the villages have daily markets every morning, with La Flotte and Le Bois Plage en Ré offering the most extensive range of local food from pineau, the popular wine-meets-cognac aperitif to baguettes, cheese, strawberries and pate - everything you need for a picnic. If the surroundings bring out the artist in you there is an excellent art supplies shop, Atelier Denis Raulet in Ars en Re selling paper, canvas, paints and brushes. The fashionable village is also host to Marie & Benoit a trendy clothes and interiors shop that sells retro homewares and elegant French linen. Meanwhile Migration in Saint Martin de Ré offers more affordable homewares such as glasses, rugs and ceramics. The village of Loix has an artisans village where you can see sculptures, soap and honey being made among other crafts. Where to stay Most visitors to Ile de Ré rent holiday houses or apartments, but there are also many ‘hotel du charme’ on the island and a huge variety of campsites from rustic and basic to glamping. Hotel Le Galion: This pretty hotel overlooks the Atlantic and the Vauban ramparts in Saint Martin de Ré. Of the 29 pretty bedrooms, 22 have sea views and all have private bathrooms with a bath and separate toilet. There’s a little outdoor terrace, a few parking spaces beneath the hotel that need to be booked in advance (15€/night), free disabled parking outside and free wifi. Double cost rooms from 115€ between April and September. Where to eat La Cible is one of two restaurants on the beach in Ile de Ré (La Cabane de La Patache is the other one). It flows onto the beach in the day with a simple coffee and pastries breakfast served from 8.30am and offers atmospheric, casual dining in the evening. The changing menu utilises local ingredients as well as reflecting global influences. I ate a superb tuna tartare with lime and basil that was fresh and piquant. Mains such as octopus of Galicia with semolina in cuttlefish ink reflect Mediterranean influences meanwhile the playful cocktail menu and free shuttle bus to a La Pergola nightclub that departs at 1.30am suggests a party atmosphere descends once plates have been cleared. A two course meal costs around 22€. There are countless family-run oyster shacks or ‘cabane’ along the coast offering freshly plucked seafood and sometimes cooked dishes alongside local wine. Ré Ostréa just outside Saint Martin de Ré offers bar stool dining alongside the oyster beds. For the oyster addict, there is now a vending machine at L’Huitriere de Ré in Ars en Ré that dispenses oysters 24/7, thought to be a world-first. Le Bistrot du Marin is a portside institution in Saint Martin de Ré that stays open all year, unlike many restaurants, and is consequently popular with residents as well as visitors. The Daily specials are a reasonable 6.90€ for starters and desserts and around 16€ for a main course. I had a simply prepared but delicious plate of langoustines and followed with a steak with the restaurant’s famous homemade chips. The service is happy and relaxed and the comings and going of the harbour make for great entertainment. O Parloir feels like walking into a brocante with its mismatched furniture and courtyard hung with quirky art. The vibe is Balearic thanks to the dance music backdrop and experimental dishes. It costs between 18.70€ and 29.50€ for two courses. I had a fresh and flavoursome tartare of seabass with mango followed by beef onglet with confiture red onion. Cote Jardin has a terrace shaded by grapevines away from the hustle of Saint Martin de Ré harbour. My monkfish brochette with homemade tagliatelle and pesto was delicately cooked and delicious, although tartare of beef was evidently the most popular dish looking at the other diners. The bill comes to around 28€ for two courses a la carte or 17€ from the daily menu. Getting around There are electric and fuel buses between the villages and connecting the island with the mainland, or as some residents call it, the continent. The buses around the villages are free and cost a few euros?? for a longer journey around the island. Neither buses nor cars are immune to the stifling traffic jams that dog the island in August so the best option is to leave the car in one of the many free public car parks, such as the one just outside Saint Martin de Ré and take to two wheels for the bulk of the holiday. Bar a cross-island trip of around 30km, most journeys by bike are less than 10km. There are bike rental shops in every village which offer bicycles, trailers, child seats, locks, helmets, electric bikes, tandems, tricycles, mountain bikes, fat tyre bikes (for riding on sand) and child bikes. Taxis are few and need to be booked in advance (get taxi numbers from the tourist board webiste, below) but new to the island is Re Tuktuk, an electric tuk-tuk that seats six and offers tours or just pick-ups. Getting there By train: There's a direct train from Paris to La Rochelle then you can board a bus just outside the train station for the short journey over the bridge to Ile de Ré. Currently the journey from Paris to La Rochelle is just over 3 hours, but from this July the LGV fast train will launch between Paris and La Rochelle reducing the journey time to 2.5 hours. >> See Greentraveller's journey planner: Train from London to Ile de Ré By ferry: The closest ferry port, St Malo, is about 3.5 hour’s drive away. It is served from the UK by Brittany Ferries. Crossing the 3km bridge to the Ile de Ré by car costs 16.50€ in summer (half price in winter) and is free on foot or by bicycle. Taxis from the airport cost around 40€ or there is a bus from the airport or from La Rochelle train station. The website of the lle de Ré tourist board has a well translated English version and is a good place to start planning a trip with detailed information about transport as well as accommodation and what to do on the island. ==== Disclosure: Ginny Light was a guest of the French Tourist Office, Atout France. She has full editorial control of the review, which is written in her own words based on her experience of visiting Ile de Ré in June 2017. All opinions are the author’s own.
- Grand Tour of Switzerland
Richard Hammond's blog and video of his 7-day 'Grand Tour of Switzerland' by train and boat, departing from London St Pancras International Railway Station by Eurostar then boarding trains and boats in Switzerland, including the Glacier Express, Gornergrat (for views of the Matterhorn and then the Lauterbrunnen Valley), the Jungfrau - the highest railway in Europe, and Mount Rigi railway - the first ever mountain railway (to Mt. Rigi Kulm) - and the boat across Lake Lucerne, before returning by train via Geneva and Paris and to London. Thanks to all those that sent us tips for Richard's trip via Twitter (hashtag #agrandtour), Green Traveller's Facebook Page, or via the 'add a comment' facility on this blog (now disabled as the competition has now ended). The winner, Anthony Lambert, was given 2 x First Class 4-day Swiss Passes that cover unlimited travel on consecutive days throughout the Swiss Travel System network that Richard used. You can read the rolling blog of Richard's trip below as well our Green Traveller's Guide to Zermatt and Green Traveller's Guide to Lucerne. For a holiday that incorporates something similar to Richard's trip by train in Switzerland, see: Inntravel's Across the Roof of Europe Here are Richard's updates from the trip (nb. all timings are local): 8.15pm Arrived London St Pancras International. That's it! The end of our Grand Tour of Switzerland. Thanks to everyone who sent in tips on where to visit, we're have some terrific recommendations and it's been a fantastic week, topped off by the celebrations in Lucerne for Swiss National Day. Thanks also to Rebecca Bruce at Inntravel who expertly organised our itinerary and to Heidi Reisz and Julie Melet at Swiss Tourism for their help with our train tickets. The entire trip was filmed and the video will be posted up on greentraveller in the next few weeks. 12.53pm Arrived Geneva, lunch at the station cafe (just outside the station) then caught the 13.41. to Paris Gare de Lyon, arrived 16.53 and crossed by metro (RER D) to Gare de Nord to catch the 1843 to London. For more information about crossing metro stations in Paris, see our guide to How to transfer between train stations in Paris. The boat back to Lucerne to spend our final night celebrating Swiss National Day. Photo Richard Hammond Day 7: 8am Breakfast at Hotel Wilden Mannm, then caught the 10am train to Geneva. Lucerne Lido on Swiss National Day. Photo Richard Hammond. Day 6: Monday 1 August (Swiss National Day) 8pm Dinner at Scala Restaurant in the Art Deco Hotel Montana, high up in the hills overlooking Lake Lucerne 16.10 Boarded the boat back to Lucerne and headed for the Lucerne Lido. Taking the boat across Lake Lucerne. Photo Richard Hammond 12.09 Arrived Vitznauand caught the first ever mountain railway to Mt. Rigi Kulm, 1800m above sea level. Then walked down to Rigi Kaltbad and had lunch at Rigis Berggenuss then caught the cable car down to Weggis. 9am-11am Walked around the old quarter of Lucerne, then caught the 11.12 boat (from just outside the main train station) to Vitzau. Day 5: 8am Breakfast at Hotel Wilden Mann. Photos: Snow-trekkers departing from the Jungrau Railway Station; Inside the Jungfrau's Ice Palace. Photos: Richard Hammond. 18.30 Arrived Lucerne and checked in to Hotel Wilden Mann. 4pm Train back to to Meirangan to catch the train to Lucerne. 11am Train to Interlaken then Meirangan to catch the local train to the Aareschlucht Gorge - as suggested by Anthony Lambert (see comment at the foot of this page). Day 5: 8am Breakfast at Hotel Alpenrose then took the cable car up to Mannlichen to see the mountain trio of the Eiger, Monch and the Jungfrau. Day 4: 8am Breakfast at Hotel Alpenrose then caught the 09.12 train up to Kleine Scheidegg to catch the Jungfrau railway up towards the Jungfrau - the highest railway in Europe. 20.00 Dinner at Hotel Alpenrose. 14.00 Train to Wengen via Lauterbrunnen. Arrived and transfer by eletric taxi to Hotel Alpenrose, one of the oldest hotels in the town. It's in a fabulous setting - setting high up in the mountains overlooking icy peaks of the Breithorm and Tschingelhorn, and the lush Lauterbrunnen valley. Photo: The view of the Lauterbrunnen Valley on the train from Wengen. Photo Richard Hammond 9am-12pm: Train up to Gornergratt. We were given access to the driver's cabin, so watch out for the 'driver's view' of the Gornergratt in the video we produced. The journey up to Gornergratt departs from the centre of Zermatt (at the foot of the town's main thoroughfare) and winds its way through the town then climbs uphill providing magnificent views of the Matterhorn (Monte Cervino, in Italian) above Zermatt. The route goes via Riffelalp and Rotenboden then arrives at Gornergratt. after about 40 minutes; here's map of the Gornergratt route. We passed through some clouds, but as we arrived at the top, there was a break in the swirling mist and the majestic sight of the Matterhorn came into view, in all its glory. Day 3: Breakfast at Hotel Ginabelle then we're taking the famous Gornergrat train up to 3089m for hopefully some stellar views of the Matterhorn... On the way up to the Gornergrat, the mist cleared to reveal the Matterhorn, in all its glory. Photo Richard Hammond ==== 1752 Arrived Zermatt and took an electric taxi 5 mnins to Hotel Ginabelle. Zermatt is car-free so there are only electric vehicles in the town. Had dinner at the hotel then walked into town to Cafe du Pont, as recommended on twitter @mattewteller. The famous Glacier Express goes from St Moritz to Zermatt. ==== Day 2: 0800 Breakfast at Hotel Engiadina then caught the 0956 train to Samedan (arr 10.11) to board the 10.17 Glacier Express to Zermatt. The train actually starts at St Moritz so there were already quite a few passengers on board. The journey lasts just over 7 hours and passed through some of the most spectacular scenery in the Swiss Alps via the Landwasser viaduct, Chur (the oldest town in Switzerland), the Rhine gorge, Disentis, the Oberalppass -the highest point of the journey (here the engine pulls the train up to 2,033 metres above sea level with the help of a cog wheel), Andermatt, Brig (the centre of German-speaking Valais) and finally it passes through wild larch woods along a valley to Zermatt. == 23.26 Arrived Zuoz and a short (2-min taxi ride) up a steep hill into Zuoz and checked in to Hotel Engiadina. That's quite a slog by train in a day, but the idea is that tomorrow we can board the world-famous Glacier Express to Zermatt. 19.00 Arrived Zurich and caught the 19.37 train to Klosters and Sagliains. 14.26 Caught the high speed TGV to Zurich. Brasserie Flo at Gare de L'Est, Paris. Photo: Richard Hammond 12.47 Arrived Paris Gare du Nord, walked about 5 mins to Gare de l'Est and had lunch at the wonderful Brasserie Flo. For tips on how to cross Paris, see our guide to How to transfer between train stations in Paris. Day 1: Wednesday 27 July 09.22 Departed London St Pancras to the sound of the tannoy announcing it is one year exactly until the start of the London Olympics. == Disclaimer: This trip was organised with the cooperation of Inntravel and Swiss Tourism. Green Traveller retained all independent editorial control over the work, which has been written by Richard Hammond in his own words based on his own experience of the trip.
- Greentraveller's Winter Grand Train Tour of Switzerland
By Sian Lewis I'm now back from my wonderful Grand Train Tour of Switzerland, using the Swiss Travel Pass to visit a huge range of places in 5 days by train, including the Swiss National Museum in Zurich, Montreux's Christmas Market, the wonderful GoldenPass train journey from Luzerne to Interlaken, the magnificent Grand hotel Suisse Majestic by the lake at Montreux, glacial skiing at Les Diablerets, the cheese train to Chateau D'Oex, and much more... Thanks to all those who tweeted tips to Greentraveller on Twitter (using the hashtag #grandtraintour) and followed the trip on our other social media channels: Facebook, Google+ and Instagram (#grandtraintour). Below is the timeline of my rolling blog of the trip: Timeline of our Grand Tour of Switzerland: Day 5 (Final day), Friday 4 December 1.30pm I leave for Geneva on the final train journey of my trip. It's raining heavily outside but the train is warm and cosy, and the restaurant carriage, lit by orange lamps, is a wonderful place to have a coffee and watch Lake Geneva, wreathed in fog, fly by. 11.30am: Mariki and I head to the Museum of Horology (entrance is free with my Swiss Travel Pass) in the centre of town. It's surprisingly well curated and lovely to explore, the gentle ticking and chimes of over 4,500 exhibits lulling the visitor into a sense of calm. The collection is a treasure trove, ranging from ancient water clocks used by the Egyptians to the very first pocket watches, wonderful automata and bizarre oddities like a pocket watch chain made of hair and an astronaut's time piece. 10.00am: I arrive Le Chaux De Fonds and meet Marikit Taylor, a historian based in the town who will be my guide today. The town is completely different anywhere else I've been in Switzerland. Built from scratch in the 19th century after a fire destroyed the original village, it was designed with its principle industry, watchmaking, in mind. It's a fascinating and unique place, and one which deserves its status as a Unesco World Heritage site. It's also the birthplace of architect Le Corbusier. The town is built on a grid system, carefully designed to make the most of the light, a key feature when making the delicate, intricate clock parts Le Chaux De Fonds is famous for. This is the birthplace of Swiss watchmaking, now world-famous for its excellence. 8.44am: I leave Lausanne as the sun is coming up. Last night I walked around the beautiful city centre, which climbs up the hill above the lake, passing chocolate shops and the beautiful church of St Francois on my way to L'Etoile Blanche pub in the centre for a drink with friends. The centre is buzzing with people, drinking wine in the little Christmas market and walking under strings of fairy lights. Day 4, Thursday 3 December: 5pm: I check in to Hotel Continental, which is conveniently just across the street from Lausanne's station and a 10-minute walk from the Old Town and shopping area. Modern and sleek, it's a conveniently central place from which to explore the city. I can't wait to wake up tomorrow and see the sights then seek out Lake Geneva... 3.15pm: Lorena and I board the train to Lausanne via Montreux. As the train winds back down to the valley we see a cloud inversion covering Lake Geneva, with just the mountains and tallest pine trees peeking out from it. We're high above the clouds and it feels more like being in a plane than on a train. 2pm: Across the street is the charming Museum of the Pays D'Enhaut. A collection of the trappings of daily life from centuries past sit in themed rooms, giving a real insight into how villagers once lived. I love the wooden skis, massive cow bells and special carved spoons used for cream. There are also examples of paper cutting art, a local tradition in which intricate scenes are cut from delicate paper. You can also buy paper art created by local artists here, which make a lovely souvenir. Stomachs groaning, we pop upstairs before we leave the restaurant - here lives the town's pride and joy, a model version of the Swiss trains in the surrounding countryside. At a flick of a button it comes to life and a tiny version of our train chugs past little wooden chalets and teeny trees, over miniscule bridges and into a station. It's utterly delightful. 1pm: We have a bubbling cheese fondue for lunch, and Jessica, the train hostess, teaches me how to tear bread into little pieces and smother it in the cheese. Her top fondue tip is to only have warm drinks with fondue, to stop a cold cheese ball forming in your tummy. Lovely! 12.15pm: The train pulls in to pretty Chateau D'Oex. We walk through the peaceful village, flanked on all sides by mountains, and head to Chalet Restaurant (you guessed it, it's a restaurant in a Chalet), stopping to cuddle the gorgeous resident Bernese dog on our way in. Inside is cosy and warm, with bells hung on the walls and ladies in dirndls walking around serving appetizing-looking plates of cheese and meat. On one side of the room a huge wood fire is crackling away, and next to it an enormous copper pot full of curds is being stirred, ready to make the Chalet's famous cheese. We head over to watch and are quickly roped in to stir the pot - the curds need constant stirring over heat before they're sieved and set in a cheese mold. 10.44am: The train leaves the station and we settle into the supremely comfy seats. I feel like I'm in a period drama. I'm travelling with Lorena, who works for GoldenPass, and we sit and chat as we climb into the mountains, the sun turning the snowy peaks gold. Lorena tells me about the descent of the cattle from the high mountains in September, which is celebrated as a festival in the Pays D'Enhaut, where we're headed. Farmers brush their cattle and wreathe their horns with flowers before they are paraded down from the mountains to spend the winter in the valleys. She also tells me all about yodelling, which you sometimes still hear at traditional festivals and which was once a way to communicate between the valleys. I ask her if any yodellers still active and she chuckles. "A few, but we tend to use iPhones now". 10.30am: Platform 5 of Montreux's pretty station is the starting point for two of the coolest modes of transport I have ever heard of: the summer Chocolate Train (or Train du Chocolat) and the winter Cheese Train (Le Train du Fromage). I'm taking the Cheese Train, which runs from December to April along the Golden Pass line in its own, stunning train carriage - an original from the Belle Epoque, complete with plush seats and gold-trimmed interiors. If you have a Swiss Travel Pass then a Cheese Train ticket is just 39CHF, which includes cheese and wine on the platform, a fondue lunch and entry to the Museum of the Pays D'Enhaut in Chateau D'Oex, the train's destination. 8.45am: As Villars Sur Ollon is waking up and the sun is rising over the mountains I catch the bus (free with my Swiss Travel Pass) down the mountain to Montreux. Day 3, Wednesday 2 December 5.30pm: I check in at the Hotel Du Golf, a warm, cosy chalet-style hotel in the middle of the village of Villars Sur Ollon. Everything is made of wood. The downstairs bar is a particular highlight - the perfect place for a hot drink after a hard day's skiing. From my balcony I can see warm yellow lights glittering all over the valley. 4.50pm: Onto a bus to Villars Sur Ollon, a mountain village high in the hills and in the heart of skiing and hiking territory. 3.04pm: I tear myself away from the pistes and catch the bus back to Les Diablerets, drop off my skis and hop on the ASD train back to Aigle. The sun is starting to set and sends shards of light through the pine trees. I don't think I've ever wished a train journey wouldn't come to an end before. 12.30pm: I can feel a goggle tan coming on, so I stop for lunch at restaurant in Botta station. Next I take a wander along Glacier 3000's famous and terrifying suspension bridge, which bobs about in the wind between two peaks. It's worth the clumsy walk across in ski boots for the miles of mountain ranges stretching out below you from the lookout point. Watch a short clip of the beautiful conditions today on Les Diableret's Glacier 3000: Paul, who works in the Botta restaurant, tells me: "Now is definitely the best time to ski on the Glacier. The snow is fantastic and there are no crowds or queues for the chairlifts. You've got to come back and ski our famous Ouden run, too." 10.04am: It's a little early in the winter seasion to ski in most of Switzerland but the incredible Glacier 3000 is so high that it opens from October, giving ski fans their hit of powder early. A quick bus ride (free with your Swiss Travel Pass) takes me to Col Du Pillon, and from here I take two cable cars high up into the mountains. The scenery is spectacular - a panoramic view of the Swiss Alps, white peaks stretching out as far as the eye can see. And the skiing proves wonderful too - a few runs are opening, including an exhilarating red run, chilled-out blue runs and an enormous snow park. The famous 7km long Olden ski run is scheduled to open on Friday, too. I spend a few hours tearing around on the pistes and stop in the snow park to watch a gaggle of snowboarders performing huge jumps on the kickers - they turn out to be the youth squad of the Swiss snowboarding team, here to train. 9.07am: I arrive at the tiny station in the mountain village of Les Diablerets, a cluster of more picture-perfect old wooden chalets for me to admire. The cold air immediately hits me and snow crunches under my feet. I pop into the friendly tourist office to pick up a piste map and then hire skis and boots from Jacky Sports in the centre of the village. 8.19am: In Aigle I change trains, onto the ASD (Aigle-Sepey-Diablerets line). Running for over 100 years, this mountain train may be small and simple, but the line it runs along is something very special. Quickly you leave pretty Aigle and the surrounding farmland and climb up into craggy, snow-capped peaks, the tracks hugging the side of the mountains, and plunge into shady pine forests. The train crosses a narrow bridge which gives me vertigo when I look down into the gorge as we trundle above. I spot a few fairytale wooden chalets in the valleys but most of the time the view from the window is just nature at its finest and wildest. 8.04am: I have breakfast in the Grand Suisse Hotel's lofty dining room, watching the sun rise over the lake through the huge windows - a lovely way to wake up. They do nice pain au chocolat, too. I head to the station and catch a train to Aigle. Day 2, Tuesday 1 December 6.00pm: Back in Montreux, the sun has set so I take a stroll through Montreux's pretty Christmas market, stretched along the seafront. Each stall sells a different handmade trinket, from wooden toys to delicate glass ornaments - the perfect place to do your Christmas shopping. I try some oozing raclette cheese, served with potatoes, and warm up with a cup of steaming mulled wine. 3.15pm: I tear myself away from the delights of the Grand Hotel and catch the bus to nearby Chateau Chillon. The Swiss Travel Pass gives you free travel on buses and boats as well as trains, and the 201 line reaches the castle, a few miles along the shore, in a speedy ten minutes. My Swiss Travel Pass gives me free entry to the castle (along with over 450 other museums across Switzerland). 2.15pm: We arrive in the resort town of Montreux, which is gorgeous in the sunshine, hotels as ornate as wedding cakes line the shore of glittering Lake Geneva. They don't call this the Swiss Riviera for nothing. I'm staying at the Grand Hotel Suisse Majestic, which has lots of white marble, the cosiest beds ever and an incredible view of the lake from the balcony. Watch a short clip of Sian's train trip today on the scenic GoldenPass Train: 12.19pm-2.15pm: The GoldenPass Line The sun comes out in Zweisimmen, where I board the huge, shining GoldenPass Panoramic train. For an extra 15 Francs on top of your Swiss Travel Pass you can book a VIP ticket and sit right at the front of the train, with the tracks spread out before you and a stellar view as you cross Switzerland's snow-clad valleys. This is definitely the way to travel. The lovely Swiss couple sat next to me tell me they regularly take this journey just to see how the landscape changes with the seasons. They also give me regular Lindt chocolates during the journey, and are thus my new favourite people. 9.00am-12.19pm: The Luzern-Interlaken Express In Luzern I board my next train, heading to Interlaken. Today's journey is taking me through three regions and into French-speaking Switzerland - and past no less than eight pristine lakes. The train climbs sharply up into the mountains and suddenly there's snow on the ground. Looking out the window I can see the front of the train curving round vertiginous hillsides, with story-book villages of wooden chalets spread out below us and the lofty peaks of the mountains across the valley. This is definitely the most beautiful train journey I've ever taken. 8.04am: I'm up early to catch a series of trains to Montreux. Swiss trains really are a pleasure to use - I get childishly excited about the fact that there's an upper level, and they run like clockwork, taking any travel stress away. You can check the platform your train leaves from ages in advance, too, making changing trains a breeze. Day 1, Monday 30th November 7.00pm: Back to the hotel: I'm staying at the relaxed, quiet Hotel Bristol (one of Greentraveller's recommended hotels near Zurich main railway station). I'm still buzzing from a lovely afternoon in Zurich. 6.00pm:Call off the search - we have a winning Christmas market. At Sechselautenplatz the warm orange glow of myriad lamps draws you enticingly into the loveliest market I've ever wandered in, full of delicious food and handcrafted gifts. There are lightbulbs strung up everywhere, decorated trees, iceskaters and families in woolly hats - it's like being in a fantasy version of what a Swiss Christmas market should be like. I spend ages wandering around happily, trying to decide which amazing-smelling street food to try and eventually give in and have a fondue burger. And it tastes as good as it sounds. >> More on shopping in Zurich. 5.45pm: I keep walking down Bahnhofstrasse (Zurich is a fantastically easy city to walk around, and it's hard to get lost because the canal is always nearby) until I reach the Zurichsee where the canal opens up into the city's lake. Lights twinkle back at me from across the shore. It's absolutely beautiful. 5.15pm: Halfway down the street I come across the delightfully named Singing Christmas Tree and Wiechnachtsmart, a cluster of cabins selling delicious things to eat next to an enormous Christmas tree filled with singing children. Seriously. Inside the massive construction are schoolkids dressed as elves, jingling bells and lustily singing carols (in at least four languages, because we're in Switzerland). It's the cutest thing I've ever seen. I buy a potent mulled wine from one of the stalls and watch in the midst of a crowd of proud parents and happy shoppers. 5.00pm:As night falls I walk down Bahnhofstrasse, Zurich's main shopping street. I love the clanging trams whizzing up and down. There aren't many cars in the city, instead it's bustling with pedestrians and cyclists. The whole centre is lit with garlands of fairy lights and glowing Christmas trees, and it I quickly realise that I don't need to hunt out the different Christmas markets - the whole city has become one, and little wooden stalls are dotted everywhere selling hot chestnuts, honey wine and handmade toys. 4.30pm:The city is looking very inviting, with the sun setting over the Bahnhofbruke bridge and reflecting off the Zurichsee. Across from the main station is the Swiss National Museum, and I pop in for a wander around the exhibits and a look at the museum's fascinating temporary photography collection of people at work throughout Switzerland's history. My Swiss Travel Pass gets me in for free - it includes entrance to 450 museums across the country. 4.00pm: I use my Swiss Travel Pass to catch a train to Zurich HB. You know you're in Switzerland when the train stations are beautiful, shiny and full of chocolate shops. As I leave through the soaring main archway I'm suddenly immersed in a winter wonderland - one of Zurich's biggest Christmas markets is actually inside the station, complete with wooden huts, a faux alpine chalet serving gluwein and an enormous Christmas tree wreathed in crystal stars. Monday 30 November: Sian begins her Grand Train Tour of Switzerland... Background info: The Grand Train Tour of Switzerland includes the most attractive panoramic rail routes across the country, and can be booked at any time of the year. The entire tour can be travelled with a single all-in-one ticket – the Swiss Travel Pass. The Grand Train Tour of Switzerland can best be booked for either four or eight days. The Swiss Travel System therefore recommends the 4-day or 8-day Swiss Travel Pass. Here are the 8 Routes: Zurich–St. Gallen St. Gallen–Lucerne (Pre-Alpine Express) Lucerne–Montreux (GoldenPass Line) Montreux–Zermatt Zermatt–St. Moritz (Glacier Express) St. Moritz–Lugano/Locarno (Bernina Express) Lugano/Locarno–Lucerne (Wilhelm Tell Express) Lucerne–Zurich == Disclaimer: This trip was organised with the cooperation of Swiss Travel System and Swiss Tourism. Greentraveller retained all independent editorial control over the work, which has been written by Sian Lewis in her own words based on her own experience of the trip in the winter of 2015.
- Green Traveller's Grand Train Tour of Switzerland
Follow our 5-day Grand Train Tour of Switzerland on this daily blog from Green Traveller's Florence Fortnam as she travelled around Switzerland by train, bus, boat and cablecar. Florence travelled from Zurich to St Moritz and Lucerne via some of the most scenic train rides in the world, including the Bernina Express, the Glacier Express and the cog railway up Mount Rigi. In between the train rides, she visited world class museums, climbed mountains on an electric bike, crossed Lake Lucerne by paddleboat, and recuperated in some of Switzerland's best mountain spas. The Montebello curve near Morteratsch station at the Bernina Pass against the famous backdrop with Morteratsch glacier, Piz Palue and Piz Bernina. Switzerland. Photo: swiss-image.ch/Renato Bagattini Florence's trip was recorded on Twitter, Instagram (hashtag #GrandTrainTour) and Pinterest, as well as through her daily updates on Facebook. A rolling blog of the trip was also recorded on this blog page. We also filmed the trip and posted media clips daily throughout the tour, and produced the following summary video of the trip: Map of Florence's Grand Train Tour of Switzerland Timeline of our Grand Tour of Switzerland Friday 6th May: Heading home after a fantastic 5 days! DAY 5: Friday 6th May, 10am It's the final leg of my journey, catching the Voralpen Express from Lucerne back to Zurich. This is a much gentler side of Switzerland, a far cry from the dramatic, snow-capped scenes I've become used to over the past few days. We pass farms with acres of orchards, their trees already heavy with blossom, and valleys filled with neat rows of vines. Florence's final view of Lake Lucerne before she boarded the train home Photo: Florence Fortnam/Green Traveller Watch a short video clip of Florence's Day 4, Thursday 5th May: Thursday 5th May, 4.30pm Hard to believe that just 30 minutes ago I was trudging through snow and bracing myself against a bitter wind at the top of Mount Rigi. The cablecar brings me to Weggis, a pretty port filled with happy holidaymakers stretched out under shady trees along the waterfront. I've got 25 minutes before my boat leaves for Lucerne – I find a quiet jetty and dangle my feet in the clear water. If only I'd brought my swimmers... Wooden jetty on Lake Lucerne. Photo: Florence Fortnam/Green Traveller Descending back down to the lakeside by cablecar Photo: Florence Fortnam/Green Traveller Thursday 5th May, 2pm There are various stations towards the top of Mount Rigi that you can jump out at but I head straight to the top. I scramble up to the panoramic lookout point for some magnificent views, but the wind quickly gets the better of me and I make my way down to a more sheltered spot. You can explore the top of Mount Rigi whichever way you like, either hiking your own way around or catching the regular trains in between the various stations. The terrain is gentle and there are lots of cafés and restaurats so you're never too far from a steaming cup of coffee. I decide to take the cable car down the mountain (included in my Swiss Travel Pass). Thursday 5th May, 12.15pm We're fortunate to have access to the front part of the cogwheel train travelling up the mountain, and are treated to some awesome views of the lake and snowy peaks beyond. We pass hikers and hill runners on the steep ascent, and it's not long before the green mountainside gives way to a winter wonderland and our train is trundling through a thick layer of snow. As the view opened out to the right there are gasps from the carriage – a truely spectacular sight. Swiss flag flying on our way to Vitznau. Photo: Florence Fortnam/Green Traveller Thursday 5th May, 11.12am Throughout this whole journey I've been incredibly impressed by how joined up the Swiss travel network, and hopping from train to boat at Lucerne was no exception: the boats dock right in front of the station. We leave Lucerne (for the moment, I'm heading back there later) and it's an hour's crossing to Vitznau. I spend the time sussing out my map of Mount Rigi and watching the sailboats bob past from the sun deck. On the Wilhelm Express to Lucerne. Photo: Florence Fortnam/Green Traveller DAY 4: Thursday 5th May, 8am It's the penultimate day of my Grand Train Tour. It kicks off with a breakfast fit for a king at The Chedi, with fresh figs and pastries, platters of smoked fish and local hams, and a choice of about twenty different cheeses from the wonderful cheese room. It's a wrench to leave the hotel but continue I must. I board the Wilhelm Tel Express and travel through a beautifully sunny valley to Lucerne, past sparkling lakes and villages just waking up to a new day. Watch a short video clip of Day 3, Wednesday 4th May: Wednesday 4th May, 3.35pm After all that train travelling it 's time to get the blood pumping with a couple of hours out and about on some bikes. Fortunately they are of the electric variety and are able to take the strain when the going gets tough (which, this being the Alps, is pretty often). One of our Twitter followers suggests heading to the Andermatt protected forest. Unfortunately the trails there are closed due to last night's snowfall but I find some lovely, gently undulating low mountain paths just outside the town centre. It's incredibly quiet on the roads and cold, cold, cold – wish I'd packed my gloves. Enjoying the Swiss mountain scenery from the comfort of an e-bike. Photo: Florence Fortnam/Green Traveller Wednesday 4th May, 2.11pm I'm delighted to find The Chedi is literally just over the road from the station (you can see the trains coming and going from the bar, it's that close). You'd never guess the hotel was just two years old – it blends in beauifully (I tried but failed to spot it during our descent to Andermatt). Despite its size and grandeur (and it IS incredibly grand), it's a surprisingly laid-back place to stay, with cosy, low-lit corners, lovely staff and an endless supply of wonderful things to nibble on throughout the day– there's even a special cheese room with towers of cheese wheels ripening in glass cabinets. From my terrace I watch the Glacier Exp down the series of hairpin bends from the Olberalp Pass. Photos: Right: Endless supply of delicious things to nibble on at The Chedi Above: Super comfy Swedish hessian beds (both photos: Florence Fortnam/Green Traveller). The Glacier Express. Photo: Florence Fortnam/Green Traveller DAY 3: Wednesday 4th May, 8.04am I wake to a sky of brilliant blue. I make sure I have enough reading material for the Glacier Express – it's a 5-hour journey, after all. But no – not a single word read, too busy am I darting around the train cooing and oohing at the huge valley views. This is arguably the greatest train journey of them all – I've done a fair bit of train travel and I'd find it hard to contest that claim: it's truely epic. Two of the most memorable bits (besides the cuddly ibex refreshments trolley, right) are crossing the awesome 6-ached, 213 ft-high Landwasser Viaduct (just one of the 291 bridges the train passes as it crisscrosses the valley between St Moritz to Zermatt), and climbing the Olberalp Pass, a point so high (2,033 metres) we require a push to the top from a cogwheel train. Emerging from the tunnel we are greeted by a scene of thick, thick snow, temporarily blinding the entire carriage. Right: Cuddly ibex refreshment trolley. Photo: Florence Fortnam/Green Traveller Here's a short 20-second clip of Day 2, Tuesday 3rd May: Tuesday 3rd May, 6.55pm I get back on the next train from Preda and continue all the way to St Moritz, where I check into Hotel Laudinella. No time for a nose around town – it's an early start tomorrow and the falling snow makes my cosy chalet-style room a far more tempting place to be. Tuesday 3rd May, 3.45pm Further up the line, I jump off the train again, this time at Preda and pick up the Albula Railway Adventure Trail – a wiggly hiking path that traces the railway line for 7km linking this sleepy hamlet with Bergün. Every so often I hear a whistle in the distance, followed moments later by a flash of red as the Bernina Express thunders through the valley just metres above my head. Even those without a shred of love for locomotives can't fail to be impressed by this awesome sight. The railway-inspired café. Photo: Florence Fortnam/Green Traveller Tuesday 3rd May, 1.13pm I'd heard about the Bahnmusuem Albula Railway Museum (above) from a fellow traveller so I decide to break the journey halfway at Bergün and give my legs a stretch. I know, train museums may not have the best reputation in the world, but I'd definitely recommend stopping off here. For starters, it's right next to the train station (in a converted station building), and with the Bernina Express running every hour, jumping off and on is super easy. Everything about this place is fun and interactive, from the mock waiting room with lockers piled high with fancy dress hats, to the railway-inspired café complete with carriage seats and platform clock (above). The real star of the show, however, is the miniature railway with wonderfully intricate model villages. And I get in for free with my Swiss Travel Pass! The Bernina Express snaking through the valley. Photo: Florence Fortnam/Green Traveller View from my bedoroom across Chur's jumble of roofs towards the mountains. Photo: Florence Fortnam/Green Traveller Day 2: Tuesday 3rd May, 7.10am No sooner has the sun broken over the mist-covered mountains, I'm off on the next leg of my Swiss train adventure, catching the bullet-red Bernina Express train to St Moritz via some of the county's most spectacular scenery and awesome sights. It's my first journey on a panoramic train (the windows curve round the top of the carriage so you can see above you too) and I pass herds of cows grazing in wildflower meadows, green mountainsides dotted with neat wooden chalets and groups of children waving wildly to us as we roll past. The 500 year-old Ambiente Hotel Freieck. Photo: Florence Fortnam/Green Traveller Monday 2nd May, 9.35pm My bed for the night is the pale pink, 16th-century Ambiente Hotel Freieck – one of Chur's oldest and finest buildings, slap bang in the city's old town. The medieval quarter is entirely pedestrianised and I am genuinely delighted to be woken the next morning by the sound of the bells of St Martin's Tower chiming out over the rooftops and the gentle clatter of bicycles bumping along the cobbled streets below. Getting to know Chur with audio guide and map. Photo: Florence Fortnam/Green Traveller Monday 2nd May, 5.15pm My first port of call is Chur, Switzerland's oldest city and just a 2-hour zip by train from Zurich. Chur is a picture-pretty place of fairytale turrets, lots of leafy, meandering alleyways and rows of pastel-hued townhouses, surrounded by forested mountains which rise majestically just beyond the city walls. I spend a couple of hours getting to know the compact little town with an audio guide which I download onto my phone Maps, passport, iphone at the ready. Photo: Florence Fortnam/Greentraveller DAY 1: Monday 2nd May, 11am And we're off! Bags packed, e-tickets downloaded and smartphone at the ready...we're going on the Grand Train Tour of Switzerland! The Swiss Travel Pass is an all-in-one ticket which gives me unlimited travel throughout Switzerland by train, boat, bus and cable car, including public transport in more than 75 towns and cities and free entry to nearly 500 museums! Monday 2nd May: Florence begins her Grand Train Tour of Switzerland Florence's trip follows Sian Lewis's Winter Grand Train Tour of Switzerland during which she used the Swiss Travel Pass to visit a huge range of places in 5 days by train, including the Swiss National Museum in Zurich, Montreux's Christmas Market, the wonderful GoldenPass train journey from Luzerne to Interlaken, the magnificent Grand hotel Suisse Majestic by the lake at Montreux, glacial skiing at Les Diablerets, the cheese train to Chateau D'Oex, and much more. The scenic route on the Wilhelm Tell Express. Photo: Swiss Travel System/Oliver Sander-Gogalla Background info: The Grand Train Tour of Switzerland includes the most attractive panoramic rail routes across the country, and can be booked at any time of the year. The entire tour can be travelled with a single all-in-one ticket – the Swiss Travel Pass. The Grand Train Tour of Switzerland can best be booked for either four or eight days. The Swiss Travel System therefore recommends the 4-day or 8-day Swiss Travel Pass. Here are the 8 Routes: Zurich–St. Gallen St. Gallen–Lucerne (Pre-Alpine Express) Lucerne–Montreux (GoldenPass Line) Montreux–Zermatt Zermatt–St. Moritz (Glacier Express) St. Moritz–Lugano/Locarno (Bernina Express) Lugano/Locarno–Lucerne (Wilhelm Tell Express) Lucerne–Zurich === Disclaimer: This trip was organised with the cooperation of Swiss Travel System and Swiss Tourism. Green Traveller retained independent editorial control over the work, which has been written by our writer Florence Fortnam in her own words based on her own experience of the trip.
- How to travel to Glasgow COP26 by public transport
by Richard Hammond COP26 is being held from the 31st October to 12th November 2021 at The Scottish Event Campus (SEC), which is in Glasgow's west end not far from the city centre and has its own railway station, so it's pretty easy to reach by public transport. Here are some of the many low carbon travel options, whether you've travelling a short distance by train, bus or bike, or long distance, by train, cargo boat or yacht. By Train From within Glasgow: There's a dedicated railway station actually right outside SEC, called the 'Exhibition Centre', so it's really easy to travel there by train from Glasgow's city centre and suburbs: there are six trains an hour (around every 10 minutes) from Glasgow Central station, departing from Platform 17 (low level), the journey takes just 3 minutes. If you're staying in Glasgow, you can take the subway from 15 points across the city to St. Enoch stop, from where it's a few minutes’ walk to Central Station for onward transfer to The SEC; see the Glasgow Subway map. For the latest news about local transport in Glasgow leading up to and during COP26, see this page on Transport Scotland. There is also lots of useful information on the dedicated website: Get Ready Glasgow. From outside Glasgow: There are more than 20 direct trains per day to Glasgow from London Euston station on the West Coast Line via Warrington Bank Quay, Wigan North Western, Preston (Lancs), Lancaster, Oxenholme Lake District, and Carlisle with Avanti West Coast - the fastest train is just less than 5 hours. Other main railway hub cities connect with the West Coast Line, for example, from Birmingham you'd go to Preston (Lancs) and from Manchester you'd go to Wigan North Western. Important: Trains from London Euston arrive in to Glasgow at Glasgow Central. Trains from Edinburgh arrive in to either Glasgow Queens Street or Glasgow Central, so do check which one before you get on the train. The good news is that it's just a short walk from Glasgow Queens Street to Glasgow Central, or you could take the short bus ride; see the bus timetable from Glasgow Queens Street to Glasgow Central. You can also take the train from London to Edinburgh on the East Coast Line with LNER (again there are multiple trains every day from London to Edinburgh - the fastest train from London King's Cross to Edinburgh is just 4 and 19 minutes on its new electric Azuma trains) then change at Edinburgh railway station (confusingly, it's also known as Edinburgh Waverley station) and take the fast intercity train across to Glasgow. There are multiple trains from Edinburgh station running every 15 minutes on weekdays - the fastest train takes just over 45 minutes. Travelling in a Group: If you're travelling as part of a delegation, or just with a few other colleagues, there are group discounts of up to 20% available, see: Group travel with Avanti West Coast and Group Travel on LNER. If there are just two travelling, there's the 'Two Together' railcard, see Avanti West Coast Railcards. Eurostar is also running a dedicated service from Amsterdam, Rotterdam and Brussels to Glasgow via London for delegates travel to Cop26, see: All Aboard the Climate Train For travel from further afield, there has been renaissance of rail in Europe over the last few years and there are plenty of high speed trains through the continent as well as overnight services that will save you on the expense of a hotel. The best place to find information about international train travel is the website seat61.com. It's possible to travel from China by train on the Trans Mongolia Express to Moscow from where you can take trains to Paris and then take the Eurostar to London, see: Moscow-Paris train. From Africa, you could travel to Morocco and then take the ferry over to southern Spain and from there the train to Paris to catch the Eurostar to London. By Cargo Ship If you're coming from a long distance outside of Europe and trains are not possible, you could travel on a cargo ship as a paying passenger, though you will need to allow for several weeks travel. Facilities are pretty limited, you’ll get a room and access to a dining room and lounge (there can be basic gyms and a swimming pool). The Cruise People can arrange passenger trips on board cargo boats run by shipowners from the UK, France, Germany and Italy, for trips all over the world, including the Far East and China. Most arrive into the UK at Southampton from where you can get the train up to London and follow the information given above for how to travel by train up to Glasgow. By Yacht Another way of travelling long distance to COP26 without flying is to join someone's passage to Europe by yacht. There are plenty of unpaid opportunities for recreational crew on leisure boats or yachts that are used for non-commercial activities, such as amateur sailing, racing, sports, fishing, and diving. In return for your passage, you’ll have to follow instructions from the skipper to help out with the safe running of the vessel. Just make sure you find out before you hit the high seas what exactly will be expected of you, whether you need to contribute to costs, such as food, fuel, and mooring, and whether there are any reimbursed expenses for pre-agreed expenses. There are several websites that pair up crews with yachts, including findacrew.net and cruiserlog.com. By Coach From within Glasgow: The Riversider 100 service operates from George Square in Glasgow city centre directly to the SEC; see the timetable for the Riversider 100 service. From outside Glasgow: National Express Coach services run from cities throughout the UK to Glasgow's main coach depot - Glasgow Buchanan. From London the quickest journey takes 8.5 hours, from Manchester the fastest is just over 5 hours, from Birmingham the fastest is 6 hours 40 mins. From several other cities you have to change in Birmingham, e.g. from Bristol (total travel time 11 hours), from Cardiff (total travel time 11 hours 50 mins). By Bike There are several routes to The SEC by bike, see this handy map of cycling routes in Glasgow. Plan your route using the excellent cyclestreets.net, which allows you to select the quickest route, the quietest route, or a balance of the two. The city has a bike hire scheme similar called Nextbike, which has 700 bikes and e-bikes in over 50 locations, available 24/7. It is available to use via an Android and iPhone App, via the on-bike computer, or by phoning +44 (0) 20 816 69851. Rental starts at £1 for the first 30 minutes. Please note: there may be disruption to cycle routes close to the venue at SEC so do check the latest information on the dedicated website: getreadyglasgow.com/cop26 == By Plane If there is no other option for you to get to COP26 than to fly and you feel your attendance at COP26 is worth the flight (remember some of the long-haul planes burn a gallon of fossil fuel a second*), then below are the ways to travel on public transport to the venue from the main airports in Scotland. If you fly into one of the main airports in England, such as Birmingham, Manchester or any of the London airports, then follow the information provided above for travelling by public transport to Cop26. There are a few direct trains from both Birmingham International and Manchester airport to Glasgow Central, though do check before you book as there are also some services that require a change of train (e.g. at Wigan North Western from Manchester, and at Preston from Birmingham). From Glasgow Airport: Airport buses run to Glasgow city centre near to Glasgow Central station every 10 minutes, 24 hours a day, and take about 25 minutes. From Prestwick Airport: There are three trains per hour on weekdays and the journey to Glasgow Central Station takes about 50 minutes. There is also an early morning and late evening Express Bus Service, the X99/X100, which takes an hour. From Edinburgh Airport: Scottish Citylink provides bus services from Edinburgh Airport to Glasgow’s Buchanan Bus Station every 30 minutes. Alternatively you can take a bus to Edinburgh Haymarket and then catch a train to Glasgow Queen Street station. * For more information on the huge amount of carbon emissions associated with flying, see Atmosfair’s Airline Index and the associated document Flight Emissions Calculator, which explains its methodology. == More information: For all the latest information about COP26, see: ukcop26.org and sec.co.uk/cop26
- Green Traveller's Great InterRail Adventure
Here's the blog of my week-long Interrail adventure around Europe with RailEurope. The route was via Belgium, The Netherlands, Germany, Switzerland and France. The trip was filmed (see below) and as I travelled around Europe I blogged, tweeted and updated the photo status on our Green Traveller's Facebook page (using an i-phone). Each morning, I found out where I was going next by opening a sealed envelope for my seat reservations. Rail Europe also gave me a mission to track down a particular tourist souvenir from each city (these goodies have since been donated as a prize). >> Watch the video of my Great InterRail Adventure: The Route: Click on the Google Map below for a larger interactive version of the route I took: Here are my updates from the trip (nb. all timings were local): Day 7, Monday 9 May 9.45pm The End! Arrived back on London St Pancras Station after 7 days of InterRailing via Utrecht > Antwerp > Cologne > Basel >Valence. Thanks to everyone who suggested tips for where I should eat, drink, visit at each destination either on the greentraveller facebook page or those who sent us a Direct Message on twitter: @greentraveller. It has been a terrific week, fabulously well organised by Rail Europe in collaboration with all the various local tourist boards. Please see the individual blog posts for our green guides to each city: Utrecht | Antwerp | Cologne | Basel | Valence. Plus the entire trip was filmed so please keep an eye out for the video in the next week or so. 3.44pm Caught the TGV from Valence TGV train station to Lille to catch the 19.35 Eurostar back to London. >> Read about my visit to Valence in my blog post: Green Traveller Guide to Valence, France 1.30pm Lunch at the organic restaurant 'Un tablier pour deux' which specialises in organic food from local producers. 10am Cycled over to Le Parc Jouvert then on to L'Eperviere - the first river Marina in France - from where it's a day's sailing to the Med. Has had the Blue Flag eco certification since 2005. 8am Breakfast at Hotel de France then picked up bikes from one of the nearby cycle share stations for a guided tour of the old town with local guide Stefan who works for the Valence Tourist Office. Day 6, Sunday 8 May 8pm Dinner at Bistro des Clercs in the old quarter of Valence. The tourist office of Valence La Drome gets the prize for the most web2-savvy of all the tourist boards we've met this week - when Bruno Domenach, MD, posted a pic of us eating at the restaurant on La Drome facebook page, it got over 50 likes and 15 comments within a couple of hours. Looking forward to seeing more of the town tomorrow. Definitely going to visit La Maison des Tetes and the Jouvet Park. 6pm Checked into Hotel de France. 5.15pm Arrived Valence TGV station and caught the local train to Valence Ville. 11.03am Caught the local ICN (tilting) train to Geneva to change to the high speed TGV to Valence. Had lunch in the excellent restaurant carriage. 9am Opened the last envelope and our final mystery destination is Valence in the south of France. Any recommendations for where to go? >> Read about my 2 days in and around Basel in my blog post: Green Traveller Guide to Basel, Switzerland Day 5, Saturday 7 May 10.30pm Back in Basel - the train station is packed with students using the cute trams that date back to the 1920s. Heading back to the hotel for an early boat trip tomorrow on the Rhine. 7.30pm After-swim dinner by the small lakeside harbour in Spiez. 6.30pm The water at Lake Spiez looks clean and pretty tempting. A local women recommends heading round the bay down to secluded spot on the waterfront for a dip. It's about 18-20 degrees, perfect swimming temperature. 12.30pm Train to Bern to catch the over the mountains of the Swiss Alps from Bern-Brig via Lake Spiez. This is rated one of the best train journeys in the world... gorgeous bright blue skies, seeing this trip at its best. Temperature in the mid to late 20s, yet still plenty of snow/ice on the majestic mountain peaks. Had lunch at a lovely little auberge in the mountains. 10am Heading out to explore Basel using the city's new 'mobility' ticket, which allows you to use any public transport in the city - the trams, trains and buses. Day 4, Friday 6 May 9pm Dinner in the old town at Rubino, which specialises in local, seasonal dishes. Not given a menu, in the evenings it's a 'menu surprise'... simply asked if I want meat, fish or vegetarian. I get crab for starter, pork (and nettle!) for main and a whopping 5 platter dessert, including basil and pineapple ice-cream and chocolate fondant. 8.15pm Walk over to the Munsterplatz for wonderful views of the Rhine. My local guide - Dr Rose Schulz-Rehberg - tells me there are over 40 museums in the city. She's writing a book on the architecture of the city. First impressions of Basel is that it's much more cosmopolitan than Zurich, not as spick and span yet more laid back. 7.30pm Arrived in Basel (train was delayed), feels 5 degrees warmer here, apparently it's a balmy 27 degrees. Checking in to the Basel Hilton just a few minutes from the station. 14.55 Caught the ultra modern high speed Intercity (ICE) train to Basel where I'll be spending two nights and heading into the mountains using the very useful Swiss Rail Pass. >> Read about my 36 hours in Cologne in this blog post: Green Traveller Guide to Cologne. The Cathedral in the background is German's most visited tourist attraction.1pm Lunch by the station: Schweineschnitzel mit frischem Standgenspargel sauce Hollandaise und Salzkartoffeln. Souvenir number 3: Beer Stein from Cologne11.45pm Off to Cologne's Chocolate Museum. 8.30am Breakfast at Souppresso organic café. Day 3, Thursday 5 May 9pm Dinner at Früh am Dom, which specialises in Sour roasts. I went for the pickled herring and potatoes, washed down with the local Früh beer. 7.30pm Headed over to see Cologne's magnificent Dom cathedral at sunset, now at the Riesling Lounge. 5.30pm Off to Hernando Cortez - a coffee/chocolate shop on Gertrudenstrasse. Just like Utrecht and Antwerp, the public transport networks are impressive... cyclists and trams everywhere. 4.30pm Arrived in Cologne and there are free hugs on offer from students outside the station. Midday: Arrived back at Antwerp Centraal train station to catch the 12.06 train from Antwerp to Cologne via Brussels (the leg Brussels to Cologne is a high speed line, and as per the rules of InterRailing, I had to reserve a seat on the train). >> Read about my 36 hours in Antwerp in this blog post: Green Travel Guide to Antwerp. 11.30am Picked up today's souvenir - Belgian Chocolates. 10am Met with the owner of a fair trade shop 'Today is a good day', great to see so many other fair trade shops, such as Rewind and Hadhi 9.30am Heading to the fashion district of the city 8am The breakfast room at Radisson Blu Astrid Hotel has wonderful views of Astrid Sqaure & the magnificent 19th-century Antwerp train station. Day 2, Wednesday 4 May 11.30pm: Blimey, Belgian beers are strong, 12% proof, rich and dark, brooding beverages. The beer menu ran to over 30 pages. Thanks for the tip Robin. Now heading back to the hotel to get some sleep before tomorrow's jaunt over to Germany. 10pm: Stopped off en route back to the hotel at Kulminator - according to Robin Felton who commented on Rail Europe's facebook page, it has the best selection of Belgian beers in Antwerp. 7pm: Off for dinner at the handsome and other-worldly Zuiderterras riverside restaurant in the west of the city 13.45 Heading back to Utrecht train station to catch the 14.02 train from Utrecht to Antwerp via Rotterdam. NB the train from Rotterdam to Antwerp is a high speed train so - as per the rules of Interrailing - I had to reserve my seat on the train. We've arrived into Antwerp at 15.35 (slight delay due to faulty engine) in glorious sunshine. Off to check in to our hotel for the night - Radisson Blu. 13.00 Picked up today's souvenir - Miniature Clogs. 10.30am: Suggestions are already rolling in on twitter for where to go in Antwerp... but that's for later today, right now I'm heading out to the centre of Utrecht by bike from Hotel Mitland to go canoeing along one of the main canal systems that bisect the city. Glorious morning on the suburban waterways - canoeing is a really great way to experience the city's canals. We'd hope to visit the renowned Botanical Gardens, but we ran out of time. >> Read about my 24 hours in Utrecht in this blog post: Green Guide to Utrecht. 9.30am Having a guided tour of Hotel Mitland with the hotel manager, she explains they're applying for eco certification with the Green Key scheme 8am: Just opened the envelope and today's destination is... Antwerp! Day 1, Tuesday 3 May: 8pm Off to have dinner at Restaurant deeg. 4pm Spent the afternoon on a guided tour of the city with local guide Edwin van den Berg, who works for Toerisme Utrecht. 14.58 Arrived in to Utrecht and caught bus out to Hotel Mitland, about 15 minutes from the train station. 12.18 At Brussels I caught the local train to Rotterdam where I'll changed to another local train to Utrecht. 8.45am Have just opened the first envelope which has revealed that the first destination is Utrecht... The Netherlands here I come! 7.30am Left home to get to London St Pancras International Train station to catch the 08.27 Eurostar to Brussels Midi station The Adventure Begins...
- Green Traveller's SprInterRail Sporting Adventure across Europe
That's it! We're back from our 'SprinterRail' sporting adventure with RailEurope. 11 Days and 1,991 miles... by train! We've cycled La Loire à Velo, Nantes, sailed a dingy on Lake Bourget, Aix Les Bains (France), went horse-riding in the hills above Lake Garda (Italy), and swam in a natural lake and hiked to the waterfalls in the mountains around Interlaken (Switzerland). We filmed the trip, provided daily updates on facebook and twitter (hashtag #SprInterRail) and updated a rolling blog with images of each sporting activity and where we eat, drink and sleep on the 'mobilytrip' app. To see the entire trip (all 45 places across 1,991 miles by train), click on the mobilytrip screen grab below. >> Watch the video of our trip: The Route During the trip, I compiled the following green travel guides: Green Travel Guide to Nantes Green Travel Guide to Aix Les Bains Green Travel Guide to Lake Garda Green Travel Guide to Interlaken Timeline: Monday 30 April: Back home! Took train from Interlaken back to London St Pancras via Basel and Paris. Sunday 29 April: Hiking around Interlaken. Saturday 28 April: Train from Lake Garda to Interlaken, Switzerland Friday 27 April: Horse-riding overlooking Lake Garda, Italy. Thursday 26 April: An hour's run alongside the lake at Aix les Bains then train from Aix les Bains to Lake Garda Wednesday 25 April: Dingy sailing on Lac Bourget followed by a spa at Aix Les Bains Thermal Spa Tuesday 24 April: Train from Bourg St Maurice to Aix Les Bains (via Chambery) Monday 23 April and Tuesday 24 April: Gave a presentation on sustainable tourism at the Association of British Tour Operators to France annual conference at Les Arcs Sunday 22 April: Train from Nantes to Bourg St Maurice and then up to Les Arcs Saturday 21 April, pm: Cycled out from Nantes along the long-distance cycle path, La Loire à Velo Saturday 21 April, am: Kayaked along Nantes waterways. Friday 20 April, pm: Arrived Nantes and headed over to the Villa Hamster to try out the famous Hamster Wheel. Friday 20 April, am: Departed London St Pancras on Eurostar to Nantes. Friday 20 April: The adventure begins! Photos left to right: Standing on the bridge by the raging torrent of Geissbach Falls, Switzerland. Horse riding in the hills overlooking Lake Garda, Italy. Morning swim in the salt water swimming pool at hotel Lefay, Lake Garda. Dingy sailing on Lac Bourget, Aix Les Bains Canoeing along the waterways of Nantes. Cycling out of Nantes along La Loire à Velo. --------- Thursday 20 April: How time flies! This time last year I was packing my passport and iPhone and heading off on our Great InterRail Adventure, a whirlwind tour of five European cities in eight days that took me through Belgium, The Netherlands, Germany, Switzerland and France. The adventure included canoeing along the 13th-century waterways of Utrecht, shopping in Antwerp’s famous fashion district, visiting the chocolate museum and magnificent Dom Cathedral in Cologne, taking the train through the Swiss Alps to Basel and cycling around Valence, the gateway to Provence. As I travelled between each destination by train, I blogged, tweeted, updated Greentraveller's Facebook page (using an iPhone) and wrote green travel guides to each city, describing some of the most exciting places to eat and drink along the way. Using the InterRail ticket was a fast, efficient and comfortable way to travel between these great cities. So now I'm heading off again. This time the trip is taking on an even more adventurous element: I'm taking part in a range of outdoor sporting activities as I travel by train between the mountains and lakes of central Europe. You can find out where I go and which activities I try, by following the trip on Facebook, Twitter (hashtag #SprInterail) on our Mobilytrip journey record and also on RailEurope's blog.
- Green Traveller publishes Guide to Green Brighton
Building on the success of last year's publication of Green London, today we launched a Green Brighton Guide, featuring a selection of the city's local independent traders and green-minded businesses. The new handy, pocket-sized map features places to eat, sleep and shop, and give tips on how best to get the most out of the city's green vibe while contributing to the local economy. Produced in association with the national tourist board, VisitEngland, and with support from VisitBrighton, the guide features a range of businesses, from well-known, centrally-located hotels, like the Holiday Inn Brighton, to hidden gems such as the FARM café and market, which sells seasonal produce from its own Sussex farm (squashes and pumpins are on their way!). There are also tips to encourage visitors to explore the city's 'villages', such as Kemptown, Montpelier and Cifton Hill, on foot and by bike. Caroline Lucas, MP for Brighton Pavilion, who attended the launch on Thursday, said: “Thanks to the success of our green industries, the strong character of our local communities and the wealth of natural beauty on our doorstep, Brighton & Hove has a well-earned reputation as one of the greenest places in England. This beautiful guide from VisitBrighton and Greentraveller will help to put the city even more firmly on the map for green tourism, and hopefully encourage even more people to come and sample all that Brighton & Hove has to offer.” “Sustainability is an integral part of our industry,” says James Berresford, VisitEngland Chief Executive. “Following the enormous success of London 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games – the most sustainable Games the world has seen – we are growing more accustomed to seeing ‘green’ credentials combined with great beauty, with functionality, fun and success. "We are delighted to be launching the Green Brighton Guide, which makes it easy for travellers to discover all that Brighton has to offer as a city. It highlights recognisable brands with excellent sustainable practices such as Thistle and Mercure hotels alongside smaller, innovative businesses that specialise in offering locally-sourced and Fairtrade goods.” You can get your free copy of the Green Brighton Guide at the city’s Tourist Information Centre or at any of the map’s featured businesses. Alternatively, see VisitEngland's new section on sustainable tourism. The guide is printed using waterless offset on 100% recycled paper with vegetable oil based inks. It is also downloaded as a PDF - Green Brighton PDF (9mb). Richard Hammond, founder of Greentraveller, who has presented a video of Green Brighton, which will be released next week Richard Hammond, Chief Executive of Greentraveller, says "Everyone knows Brighton rocks, but there’s so much more to the city than the beach and the shopping. Hopefully, this guide will help visitors discover the greener side to the city from the local perspective: the dozens of parks and gardens, the proud cultural heritage, and the many local, visionary independent traders that give Brighton its edge." See also VisitBrighton's Eco facebook page for all the latest green news, tips, photos and competitions.
- Green Traveller publishes map of Green London
Today we've launched a guide to Green London - a handy pocket-sized map that features eco-friendly restaurants, hotels, cafes and attractions in the capital. The idea of the leaflet, which we've produced in association with the national tourist board VisitEngland, is to illustrate that a ‘green’ weekend in London is accessible and affordable for all visitors, regardless of budget . “Green London makes it easy for travellers to discover all that our amazing capital city has to offer,” says James Berresford, VisitEngland Chief Executive, “mixing luxury brands such as The Savoy with smaller, innovative businesses that run on ethical principles and specialise in offering locally-sourced and Fairtrade goods. “Sustainable tourism is an increasingly integral part of our industry and we are delighted to be launching Green London, the first map to exclusively highlight green businesses around the capital.” On the reverse of the leaflet is a guide to how to use public transport in London, how to hire a Barclays 'Boris' bike, as well as a few green facts about the capital, such as:"London has the first gastropub certified by the Soil Association" and "There are 5 buses powered by hydrogen fuel on the route RV1 between Covent Garden and Tower Gateway station". The leaflet is downloadable here as a pdf: Green London. Copies of the leaflet are also available free of charge at eight Tourist Information Centres in and around London, including the Britain and London Visitor Centre on 1 Regent Street (from Weds, 23 March). The Green London leaflet has been launched to coincide with the first-ever Climate Week, and is officially launched at The Savoy on Tuesday 22 March. Debra Patterson, Environmental Ambassador for The Savoy, says: “This map represents a wonderful opportunity to share with our guests the very best initiatives taking place in the hotel and throughout the capital and we are delighted to support it.” Livia Firth, owner of Eco Age said: "There is no excuse anymore not to be aware of how to be more environmentally friendly in London or not to know where to shop for your eco lifestyle! This guide is a treasure!" The launch of Green London map. Left to right: Andrea Nicholls, Green Tourism Business Scheme; Jason Freezer, VisitEngland, Lady Penelope Cobham, VisitEngland, Richard Hammond, greentraveller.co.uk; Deborah Patterson, The Savoy hotel. Photo: VisitEngland The launch of Green London map. Left to right: Andrea Nicholls, Green Tourism Business Scheme; Jason Freezer, VisitEngland, Lady Penelope Cobham, VisitEngland, Richard Hammond, greentraveller.co.uk; Deborah Patterson, The Savoy hotel. Photo: VisitEngland
- Hiking on Cairn Gorm Mountain
As we launch our Green Traveller's Guide to the Cairngorms, Paul Bloomfield discovers there’s more to Cairn Gorm than skiing and spectacular views, as he hikes up a little-known route in Britain's largest National Park. I’m a bit confused about colours. Andy of Scot Mountain Holidays, my expert guide for a day walking on one of Scotland’s highest peaks, is trying to clarify how this iconic summit acquired its name. “Well, the Gaelic Càrn Gorm literally translates as ‘Blue Hill’,” he tells me. “But gorm also relates to the green of plants, so some people think it means ‘Green Hill’. And yet the original local name for these mountains was Am Monadh Ruadh – the Red Mountains, describing the russet hue of the rocky peak in the evening sunlight.” Blue, green, red – with views of lochs dotted all around, pinewoods of racing green carpeting the northern glens, our path lined with verdant mosses and dwarf tundra plants, and pinkish granite littering the slopes, they all seem appropriate. And I’m discovering a lot more local colour – history, wildlife and, especially, rocks and flowers – thanks to Andy’s insights. We’re tackling the less-trodden northern ridge of Cairn Gorm, partly to avoid the crowds (such as they are) and enjoy better chances of spying birds and beasts, and partly just because it’s a wonderful route in itself. As we tie our bootlaces in the mountain’s lower carpark, a playful wind tugs at our jackets and the mountain’s rounded summit is cloaked in cloud. This July morning is brisk and breezy, but the haul east up to the first ridge soon has me stripping off my fleece, and the views back north across Glen More and Abernethy Forest to Loch Morlich are enough to warm the cockles. We pick our way past 3,000-year-old tree roots exposed as soil erodes – the white skeletons of ghostly, half-buried forests. But there’s plenty of life around, and Andy points out the diverse flora en route – though as this is effectively tundra habitat, nothing grows tall and we have to bend down to get a good look at much of it. “This one is bog asphodel,” Andy says, pointing out spikes of vivid yellow star-shaped flowers. “It used to be known as ‘bone breaker’, because it was believed that if sheep ate it, they’d be prone to fractures. It grows on poor, acidic soil, so livestock grazing here would struggle to get the nutrients they needed for strong bones.” Our climb is punctuated by this kind of gem. We see tiny insects trapped on the sticky leaves of the carnivorous (but pretty purple-flowered) butterwort or ‘bog violet’, admire the cartographic squiggles of map lichen on pathside boulders, and delight at the orchids dotted through the grasses and mosses. One of Andy’s missions – other than showing visitors the varied faces of the Cairngorms – is to make geology sexy. Trained in that field, his passion and knowledge might just be enough to convert me. It helps that this region has such a fascinating history. “400 million years ago, where we’re standing would have been under thousands of metres of rock,” he explains. “This was the central part of a huge mountain range spanning from what’s now Greenland to Scandinavia, and since eroded by the vast glaciers that scoured this area.” We walk between enormous pink granite boulders and sift sparkling gravel, glistening with feldspar, mica and quartz. I spot a movement out of the corner of my eye: a family of ptarmigan, their brindled summer plumage providing superb camouflage. Impossibly cute chicks follow their mother as they bob away through the scree. Though Cairn Gorm is hardly the Masai Mara, there’s a surprising number of species to spot: wheatears chinking among the rockfields, snow buntings darting across lingering patches of ice, the skittering flight of mountain hares. The clouds lift long before we reach the summit, where we encounter humanity for the first time since setting off – clusters of satisfied walkers munching cereal bars and gazing across to Ben Macdui, at 1,309m Scotland’s second-highest point, just to the south. We head in that direction, and within minutes leave the handfuls of peak-baggers behind. At the edge of the plateau the land simply falls away. Between pancake-piles of granite we peer down at Loch A’an wiggling through a steep-sided valley; across from us rises a snow-laden plain, with the flat-topped outcrop known as the Anvil to our right and the ribbon of a waterfall glistening on a distant cliff. I recall Andy’s comments about the mountain’s names. It doesn’t really matter who calls it what, in whichever language, I think. There aren’t words enough to describe this kind of lonely majesty. Plan your holiday Scot Mountain Holidays offers a range of itineraries in the Cairngorms and further afield, focusing on guided walking, family adventures, cycling and winter mountain activities including building and sleeping in snowholes; Andy also runs mountain skills courses. Participants stay at Fraoch Lodge, a homestay where Andy, partner Rebecca and young son Gregor welcome guests with comfortable accommodation and delectable cooking – Rebecca’s innovative dinners, mouthwatering cakes and ice cream (try the rhubarb crumble flavour) are a treat, and sales of her home-made jams and chutneys help fund local mountain rescue services.
- Visitor Attractions named in the Guardian Green Travel List 2011
A solar-powered music festival in Wales, a museum topped with a living roof, and the "world's first farm in a shop" in London - here are the five visitor attractions listed in this year's Guardian Green Travel List. >> For more information on the kinds of projects that made it onto the list, see: Graham Miller's introduction to this year's annual Green Travel List. Centre for Alternative Energy, Powys Whether you want to learn how to turn old fabrics into bags, find useful hedgerow herbs, learn eco buildings skills or organic gardening, the Centre for Alternative Energy is the go-to place, offering short courses and accommodation in the on-site eco-lodge which sleeps 18. CAT has evolved from a 1970s outdoor laboratory to an internationally renowned family friendly visitor centre, explaining the green way of life and what is possible with dozens of exhibitions that cover just about every eco technology under the sun. There’s a playground too, but it’s an interesting place to visit even if you’re not planning to live in a straw bale house any time soon. Come by train (the nearest station is Machynlleth) and entry is half price. Entrance £8.50 per adult, £4 per child. Car Free Walks, UK Car Free Walks is a website on which users share walking routes in the UK that can be reached by bus, train, coach or ferry. Each is given a grid reference, elevation profile and link to the relevant OS map, with information on nearby accommodation, pubs, cafes and other nearby walks. Users can rate walks and add their own routes to the growing database. Prizes are offered for the best submissions. Party Neuf, Monmouthshire Party Neuf has pioneered the solar-powered music scene, providing non-fossil fuel energy to power lights, PA systems and stages for the last 26 years, at venues including Glastonbury. It now runs its own festival, the Croissant Neuf Summer Party near Usk, Monmouthshire in August, generating all its power on-site from solar panels and instigating green initiatives such as biodegradable beer glasses and a post festival recycling clear up. Last year’s biggest name was Ed Shereen, but there are craft and healing areas, yoga and other workshops, and it’s very family friendly. According to Party Neuf, an environmental audit showed that, on average, festival goers at last year’s Summer Party generated less than 50% of the CO2 they would have done if they’d stayed at home. Adult tickets (2011 prices) £88, children £35. FARM:shop, Dalston, London "The world’s first farm in a shop", as FARM:shop Dalston describes itself, is an experiment in urban agriculture that combines a cafe and arts venue with a mini fish farm, rooftop chicken coops, indoor allotments and a polytunnel, to grow as much food as possible in what was once a derelict shop. While the space plays host to regular talks, tastings, parties and events (from a ho-down dance in the polytunnel to an olive oil tasting), the produce grown on the site is also served in the cafe, in dishes such as fresh tilapia with a dollop of hydroponic chilli and tomato chutney. Devised by Something & Son, an eco-social design practice, it aims to roll out the concept around the UK so is calling for anyone with a spare rooftop, balcony or vacant land to get in touch. Open Monday-Saturday 10-5. California Academy of Sciences, US Over recent years no city worth its salt has failed to construct a major new museum or art gallery. But among all this show-stopping architecture, San Francisco’s California Academy of Sciences stands out. Set in Golden Gate Park, and designed by Pritzker Prize-winning architect Renzo Piano, this natural history museum went for sustainability rather than spectacle when it was rebuilt in 2008. Partly powered by solar panels and insulated with recycled jeans, the building is home to the world’s largest all-digital planetarium, its deepest living coral reef exhibition and a four-storey rainforest. But its prize exhibit is overhead; the museum is topped by a 2.5 acre living roof, the largest swathe of native vegetation in San Francisco, and one that provides a habitat for local insects and birds as well as insulation for the building below. Entrance $29.95 per adult, $19.95 per child. Read about the other initiatives that made it onto the Guardian Green Travel List in these categories: Community tourism >> Sustainable Holidays >> Accommodation >> Transport >>
- Community Initiatives named in the Green Travel List 2011
Here are the top five community initiatives that made it in the Guardian Green Travel List 2011, including a good food guide helping travellers pick up only the freshest, home-grown local produce in northern Spain and a unique volunteering project in Uganda. >> For more information on the kinds of projects that made it onto the list, see: Graham Miller's introduction to this year's annual Green Travel List. Ewaso Lions Warrior Watch, Kenya In Kenya’s northern Samburu region, young men – warriors – are trained to work in wildlife conservation as part of the Ewaso Lions Warrior Watch program, to address the imbalance that the people who spend the most time out in the bush among wildlife are the ones who have least input in decision making that affects that environment. Following training on data collection, basic wildlife ecology, GPS use, conservation, security issues, the value of wildlife, English, Kiswahili and basic arithmetic, the so-called “warriors” report back on wildlife sightings, incidents of poaching, community meetings and livestock issues. In return, Ewaso Lions pays them a small monthly stipend and provides meals. Nearby Sasaab Lodge, within the Westgate Community Conservancy, supports two warriors from the programme. Suites at Sasaab Lodge cost from $545 per person per night, including full-board accommodation and most activities. Great Gorilla Project Tour, Uganda One of several similar projects run by Way Out Experiences – a UK-based tour operator that specialises in volunteering holidays – the Great Gorilla Project tour puts a neat twist on the usual conservation holiday. Volunteers here don’t record data or monitor animals directly. Instead it’s all about spreading the message on gorilla conservation by paying to join a two-week trip to Uganda and help screen conservation documentaries donated by National Geographic and the BBC via a pedal-powered cinema. Volunteers take the cinema to remote rural regions, pedalling a stationary bicycle to generate the electricity needed to show the films, then on days off you’ll visit Ngamba Chimpanzee Sanctuary, go on a gorilla trek and visit the equator. More than 10,000 Ugandans watched the films in 2011. A 14-day volunteering on the Great Gorilla Project based at Mgahinga Gorilla National park, costs from £2,150 per person, including 13 nights’ accommodation, transport and most meals but not international flights. Tripbod The website that put travellers in touch directly with a vetted local with similar interests who, for a small fee, offer pre-trip advice and local knowledge for anything from a foodie weekend to a week’s surfing. The Tripbod team have developed a knack for finding knowledgeable people with a passion for local culture and the environment, including local guidebooks authors, photographers and bloggers. Experiences range from £2.50 for a trip-planning chat over coffee in South Africa to £172.50 for a one-day “culinary discovery” of Italy’s Oltrepò Pavese area. Wilderness Guide Training Programme A 10-day outdoor training initiative set up by Scottish tour operator Wilderness Scotland for its own professional outdoor guides to learn how to inform clients about nature conservation, environmental issues and communicating sustainability to clients. Training modules include 'leave no trace', natural and cultural heritage interpretation, and story telling. Experts from around the UK contribute to the programme. For programme dates contact Wilderness Scotland, tel: 0131 625 6635. Part of the programme has taken its inspiration from the Colorado-based ‘Leave No Trace’ centre for outdoor ethics (lnt.org). Regional Good Food Guide, Spain We were impressed by a guide to local food produced by holiday operator, Casas Cantabricas, that draws upon its experience of more than 25 years of selling holidays to northern Spain. The aim is to help its customers find where to buy local ingredients from shops and markets, and to point the way to the best local restaurants, from simple seafood tapas bars and country tavernas to the famous Michelin starred restaurants of the Basque Country. Each review includes recommendations and personal insights by its clients as well as the company’s staff who live and work in Spain. Food guide free to clients. Read about the other initiatives that made it onto the Guardian Green Travel List in these categories: Sustainable Holidays >> Accommodation >> Visitor Attractions >> Transport >>
- Accommodation named in the Guardian Green Travel List 2011
Here are the top six green accommodations, as featured in the Guardian Green Travel List 2011. From luxury group self-catering accommodation in the heart of the Cornish countryside to a collection of cosy eco-pods suspended high in the treetops on Vancouver Island... >> For more information on the kinds of projects that made it onto the list, see: Graham Miller's Introduction to this year's annual Green Travel List. Little White Alice, Cornwall Little White Alice is a seriously gorgeous collection of six new self-catering holiday cottages in Carnmenellis, Cornwall. Most impressive is the stunning natural chemical-free swimming pool, emerald green and surrounded by huge lumps of local granite, with a reed bed filtration system. Beyond lie 25 acres of the property’s own land, left wild, for fun rambling and nature-spotting, helped by the addition of a barn owl house and bat loft. The houses are a mix of wood and stone, sleeping 2-8; some have wood-burners, private decks, wet rooms and bespoke willow work, plus there’s an art studio offering lessons. With a grant from the Low Carbon Buildings Programme, the owners invested in a wind turbine that produces most of the cottages’ electricity, ground source heat pumps that use boreholes drilled 90m down into the granite bedrock to provide underfloor heating and solar thermal panels for hot water. They have a licence to host civil ceremonies in their green-oak arbour by the pool. From £220 per week for two. Fattoria San Martino, Italy If this Tuscan B&B, set on an organic farm, seems a little more stylish than your average agriturismo, there’s good reason – Dutch-Italian owners Karin Lijftogt and Antonio Giorgini gave up their jobs in the fashion industry in Milan to go into farming. That was 20 years ago, and since then, they’ve come a long way. The farm now covers five hectares and produces olives, saffron, wheat (they make their own organic pasta) and honey. Having restored the 18th-century farmhouse at the property’s heart using only natural and organic building materials, the couple now run it as a four-room guesthouse. Breakfasts and dinners are organic, locally sourced and vegetarian; heating and hot water are solar-powered; and, in summer, guests can relax in the property’s natural pool. From €130 per double, B&B. The Green House is a refurbished seaside hotel in Bournemouth that boldly claims to be “the greenest hotel in the UK” while maintaining contemporary style. Rooms are decorated in mauve and cream, have flat screen TVs and Bose sound docks, and yet its eco credentials are impressive. Solid wood furniture has been made using trees felled by storms or tree surgeons, there’s rain water harvesting for irrigation, and the restaurant has local, seasonal, organic food, and only organic and biodynamic wines – there’s a vegetarian tasting menu too (£45), featuring dishes such as roast pumpkin with curry oil, or mushrooms on toast. It has a rating of “excellent” from the environmental assessment system for buildings, Breeam, solar panels help heat the water and much of the electricity and heating is generated on site using a combined heat and power unit. Doubles from £140, B&B. The Green House, Dorset The Green House is a refurbished seaside hotel in Bournemouth that boldly claims to be “the greenest hotel in the UK” while maintaining contemporary style. Rooms are decorated in mauve and cream, have flat screen TVs and Bose sound docks, and yet its eco credentials are impressive. Solid wood furniture has been made using trees felled by storms or tree surgeons, there’s rain water harvesting for irrigation, and the restaurant has local, seasonal, organic food, and only organic and biodynamic wines – there’s a vegetarian tasting menu too (£45), featuring dishes such as roast pumpkin with curry oil, or mushrooms on toast. It has a rating of “excellent” from the environmental assessment system for buildings, Breeam, solar panels help heat the water and much of the electricity and heating is generated on site using a combined heat and power unit. Doubles from £140, B&B. Circus Hotel, Berlin A 230-bed hostel and hotel located across the Rosenthaler Platz in Berlin’s Mitte district that has few of the energy intensive trappings associated with large city-centre hotels, such as wellness areas and mammoth breakfast buffets; instead you’re encouraged to arrive by public transport (there’s no car park), rent bikes and see the city like a local by using nearby facilities, such as local gyms, swimming pools, restaurants and cafes. Rooms are subsequently much cheaper and range from dorm style beds to private apartments with kitchen, bathrooms and terrace with roof-top views of the city. It runs free off-the-beaten-track tours of Berlin, rents out bikes, segways and smart cars, plus you can download a free self-guided city tour from its website. From €19 per night for a dorm bed. Free Spirit Spheres, Canada Nest-like spherical wooden capsules suspended from the forest canopy of giant Douglas firs, cedar and maples trees near Qualicum Beach on Vancouver Island, British Columbia. Inventor Tom Chudleigh drew his inspiration for the design of the pods from the principles of bio-mimicry, treehouse architecture and sail boat rigging. Each has a hard, nut-like outer shell that’s hung by a web of ropes so that it gently sways with the movement of the trees. Inside these cocoons of comfort, there’s a double bed and table and more mod cons than you might expect given their minimalist exterior, including an electric heater, sink, microwave and built-in speakers. Back on terra firma, a short walk from the pods are washrooms, showers, a sauna, kitchen and a covered deck for barbecues. From $135 per night for one or two people. Read about the other initiatives that made it onto the Guardian Green Travel List in these categories: Community tourism >> Sustainable Holidays >> Visitor Attractions >> Transport >>
- Sustainable Holidays featured in the Guardian Green Travel List 2011
From kayaking around Sweden'sJämtland Triangle to fascinating village-to-village walking holidays throughout India and Ethiopia, here are the five sustainable holiday providers featured in this year's Guardian Green Travel List. >> For more information on the kinds of projects that made it onto the list, see: Graham Miller's Introduction to this year's annual Green Travel List. Nature Travels, Sweden Kayaking around the Koster Islands, ski touring on the Jämtland Triangle, and timber rafting down the Klarälven are among the adventure holidays available with Nature Travels, a UK tour operator that focuses exclusively on small-scale, low-impact eco-tourism. It is operated by locally owned partners in Sweden using only local guides and services, particularly those vetted by the Swedish Ecotourism Society. Holiday packages don’t even include flights, customers are encouraged to take alternative transport from the UK, such as by ferry from Harwich to Esbjerg, Denmark, or overland by train via Germany. More than 90% of its clients travel within Sweden by public transport. Five days self-guided ski touring on the Jämtland Triangle costs from £286 per person for including four nights’ self-catering accommodation and maps but not transport or equipment. Sicilian Experience, Italy Renovated traditional stone cottages in the laid-back seaside village of Sant’Ambrogio near the beautiful Madonie National park on the northern coast of the island are available to rent through a unique community tourism initiative that has breathed new life into this ancient corner of Sicily. The scheme encourages locals, especially the young people, to become more environmentally savvy, to take pride in their heritage and promote local traditions, so traditional Sicilian organic gardening is flourishing and you can expect to find local olive oil, preserved vegetables and organic jams in your apartment. A mezzanine apartment for two in one of the first stone buildings in the village, with a large terrace and views of the sea, costs from €300 for a week (a green flower icon singles out those accommodations that are part of this initiative). La Ruta Moskitia, Honduras Jungle trekking, tubing, crocodile spotting and miskito dancing are just some of the actitivities included on these action adventure ecotourism holidays in the heart of the Río Plátano Biosphere Reserve, a two-million acre Unesco world heritage site in north-east Honduras that’s home to jaguars, monkeys, manatees and more than 300 bird species. La Ruta Moskitia is an alliance of six indigenous communities that have joined together to host travellers in palm-thatched ecolodges and transport you expertly by dugout canoes through the rainforest as you tick off each adventure. Profits from this enterprise have gone directly back to the villages, which has generated economic opportunities for locals as alternatives to overfishing and illegal logging. From $425 per person for a seven-day “overland adventure,” including full-board accommodation and activities but not international flights or transfers. Traidcraft Meet the People tours Witness spectacular sunrises and sunsets over the snow-capped peaks of the Himalayas at Nagarkot, then explore the ancient city of Kathmandu, ride on an elephant back safari in Chitwan National Park then chill out in the lakeside city of Pokhara. This is just one of the whistle-stop itineraries on Traidcraft’s novel sightseeing trips to developing countries. Others trips include Sri Lanka, Bangladesh, Cuba, Peru and Vietnam. En route to exploring some of the country’s best attractions, you get to stay with the smallscale farmers who make fairtrade products. There are currently 14 tours a year. Prices start from £1,325 per person for a 13-day tour of Nepal, including all accommodation, most meals, transport and activities but not international travel. The Himalayas offer countless treks and challenges. Photo: Holly TuppenVillage Ways If you’ve ever dreamed of walking in the Himalayas but have been put off by high altitude, energy-sapping mountain treks, then a Village Ways trip could be for you. Beginning at Based Binsar, a wildlife sanctuary in the Himalayan foothills, in sight of the great peaks of Nanda Devi, Trisul and Panchachuli, you’ll go on gentle, privately guided walks from village to village staying in specially built guest-houses in the heart of the communities with delicious home-grown vegetarian food and picnic lunches. You’ll get to see the spectacular views and still have the energy at the end of the day to enjoy the fabulous home cooking and age-old rhythms of traditional village life. The Village Ways formula is has been to introduce small-scale tourism to rural communities to help sustain their communities and to offer tourists the chance to engage with people and cultures they wouldn’t ordinarily be able to. Village Ways has established village-to-village walking holidays in five locations across India and two locations in Ethiopia; another project is scheduled to launch in Kenya next year. Prices for a typical nine-night trip to the Binsar region of India start from £610 per person, including transport, full-board accommodation and guiding but not international travel. Read about the other initiatives that made it onto the Guardian Green Travel List in these categories: Community tourism >> Accommodation >> Visitor Attractions >> Transport >>
- Transport Initiatives named in the Guardian Green Travel List 2011
The four green transport initiatives that made it into the Guardian Green Travel List, including an innovative electric buggy in the Brecon Beacons, Germany's national rail eco programme, and Glastonbury's discount for travellers arriving on foot, by bike or by public transport. >> For more information on the kinds of projects that made it onto the list, see: Graham Miller's Introduction to this year's annual Green Travel List. Deutsche Bahn Germany’s national railway has launched a Climate Protection Programme, which by 2020 aims to have reduced its CO2 emissions by 20% compared to 2006. Included in this is an ‘Eco Programme’ that offers businesses the ability to ensure the energy for their staff’s rail trips is sourced exclusively from renewable power. Accrington Eco-station, Lancashire The first truly “green” railway station building on the UK’s national rail network, Lancashire’s Accrington Eco Station opened in December 2010. The stone used was recycled, photovoltaic cells provide a percentage of the station’s electricity, hot water is solar-powered, and harvested rain water is used for flushing toilets. Though the building houses a ticket office (currently operated under lease by Northern Rail), its purpose is also to spread the message, and the basement houses an education resource centre where school groups can learn about sustainable transport and other green issues. Glastonbury Festival, Somerset Ticket holders who arrived at the festival by public transport or bike this summer were given a Green Traveller lanyard which gave them vouchers for discounts on meals, sole access to solar showers and compost toilets, and a discount on a festival T-shirt. The organisers admit “these are reasonably small gestures”, but as transport emissions account for more than 50% of Glastonbury’s carbon footprint, this initiative raised awareness of the environmental impact of one of the world’s largest outdoor gatherings. Glastonbury's 'green traveller' initiative contributed to their being 5,000 less cars at the festival this summer. B-bug, Brecon Beacons, Wales After winning the Green Dragon’s Den competition at Hay Festival in 2010, the owners of the ., where visitors could test them. The cute b-bugs are open-sided but have a little fabric roof, and have a top speed of 30mph and a range of 20 to 25 miles. They’re charged using electricity generated by local micro-hydro schemes and use only 3kWh for every 20 miles, which the owners say compares to only three miles in a standard petrol car. For every 20 miles, a b-bug saves 5kg carbon. Hire prices not yet available for 2012. Read about the other initiatives that made it onto the Guardian Green Travel List in these categories: Community tourism >> Sustainable Holidays >> Accommodation >> Visitor Attractions >>
- Introducing the Green Travel List
The Green Travel List has generated some tremendous examples of how it is possible to travel with a reduced impact. But what does the list say about the state of the tourism industry and its commitment to sustainability? I think that most in the industry would accept that tourism has been pretty slow in recognising its impact on people, places and the planet. It was not so long ago that some of the largest tour operators in the UK and across Europe lobbied for the removal of the ‘eco-tax’ that the Balearic Islands imposed, which was an attempt to provide a fund from which sustainability could be enhanced on the islands. It may be that should another core tourism destination try to introduce a similar tax, then the same tour operators would fight against it again. However, for the moment, the very largest tour operators such as First Choice are making considerable efforts to understand what their impact is, and what they can do about it. In that regard, the companies identified on the Green Travel list are ahead of the game. These companies have identified where they have an impact, and have taken steps to address these problems. Further, these companies are measuring the effect their actions are having in order that they can be sure they are making a difference. The companies go beyond what we would now expect all companies to offer, such as recycling waste, using low energy lightbulbs, turning off lights etc. Instead, we have companies installing reed beds, green roofs, heat-pumps, re-foresting large areas of land, micro-generation of power and becoming energy self-sufficient. The companies also go beyond just telling guests about the need to only wash towels every second day, but offer discounts to customers that come by public transport, or have found ways to design the need for private transport out of the product. The companies have sustainability at their core, and are not merely trying to reduce the impact of their business, but to fundamentally redesign their business to be more sustainable. The big question that follows these examples of excellence is ‘will this be enough’? Will it be enough to continue to consume holidays, albeit consume holidays that have less impact than others? Arguably since the Rio Earth summit in 1992 we have adopted an approach to sustainability that is really characterised by us continuing to do exactly as we want, but trying (to a greater or lesser extent) to find a less impactful way of doing this. Of course, this is the logical progression of our actions, but increasingly it becomes obvious that there is a separation of what scientists tell us needs to happen, and what politicians feel able to commit to (on our behalf). This was clearly illustrated by the Copenhagen accord, which fell significantly short of even the minimum agreement necessary to put us a more sensible path forward. If our current approach to sustainability (keep consuming, but consume differently) does not have the effect necessary, then the next stage of sustainability is likely to demand a change in the amount of things we are able to consume. For some resource-intensive industries this could mean big problems. Tourism is such a resource-intensive industry. Hence, we could reach a point where the introduction of personal carbon allowances mean that if we want to holiday on the other side of the world, then we need to collect (or purchase) our annual allowances in order to make the trip. Yet, our holidays have become central to our lives and the way we express our self-identity. So, I would argue that we all need to support those companies that have begun the transition to a greener economy. Hopefully, changing the kind of holidays we take will mean that we do not have to face a future where our freedom to take holidays is curtailed. Dr Graham Miller is Director of International Studies at the University of Surrey and Chair of Judges of the Green Travel List, which was published in the Guardian newspaper, Saturday 20 February 2010.
- Judges of the Green Travel List
Over 200 travel and tourism companies were asked to complete an online questionnaire, which asked for specific information about any actions that have been taken to reduce carbon impact as well as other aspects of sustainability, such as water preservation, waste management and biodiversity conservation. A panel of travel and tourism experts, chaired by Dr Graham Miller, director of International Studies at the University of Surrey, read the completed questionnaires and decided on the final list. The aim was to identify companies that have introduced significant changes to their business, the products they offer and the way they perform. Any measures that are highly replicable and scalable weighed in their favour, particularly where a transparent degree of monitoring was demonstrated. The panel of judges for the Green Travel List: Dr Graham Miller, Chair of Judges Dr Graham Miller is Director of International Studies and a Senior Lecturer in Management at the University of Surrey, England, where he teaches issues relating to business ethics, sustainability and the tourism industry. Graham’s main research interest is in the forces that enable and prevent the drive towards a more sustainable tourism industry, publishing the first book to address the monitoring of sustainable tourism in 2005. Graham has just completed a major study for the UK government Department for the Environment on public awareness of sustainable tourism and leisure. Other recent clients have included the Department of Trade and Industry, EU, Association of British Insurers, National Audit Office, TUI-AG and Ipsos-Mori. Graham is a consultant and qualified accreditation officer for the United Nations World Tourism Organisation and their Tourism Education Quality Programme, and a judge for the World Travel and Tourism Council’s Tourism for Tomorrow Awards, which seek to establish the tourism company making the greatest contribution to sustainable tourism each year. Graham sits on the editorial board of the Journal of Sustainable Tourism, and is the Tourism editor of the journal Tourism and Hospitality Research. Graham is vice-chair for the Research Ethics Committee of Hammersmith Hospital, and a member of the Faculty of Management Ethics Committee at the University of Surrey. Read Graham's introduction to the Green Travel List Tim Smit Tim Smit was born in Holland on 25 September 1954. He read Archaeology and Anthropology at Durham University. Tim worked for ten years in the music industry as composer/producer in both rock music and opera. In 1987 Tim moved to Cornwall he and John Nelson together ‘discovered’ and then restored the Lost Gardens of Heligan. Tim remains a Director of the gardens to the present day. Tim is Chief Executive and co-founder of the Award winning Eden Project near St Austell in Cornwall. Eden began as a dream in 1995 and opened its doors to the public in 2000, since when more than 8 million people have come to see what was once a sterile pit turned into a cradle of life containing world-class horticulture and startling architecture symbolic of human endeavour. Eden has contributed over £800 million into the Cornish economy. Eden is proud of its success in changing people’s perception of the potential for and the application of science, by communicating and interpreting scientific concepts through the use of art, drama and storytelling as well as living up to its mission to take a pivotal role in local regeneration. It demonstrates once and for all that sustainability is not about sandals and nut cutlets, it is about good business practice and the citizenship values of the future. Tim is a Trustee, Patron and Board Member of a number of statutory and voluntary bodies both locally and nationally. He has received a variety of national awards including The Royal Society of Arts Albert Medal. In 2002 he was awarded an Honorary CBE in the New Years Honours List and he has received Honorary Doctorates and Fellowships from a number of Universities. Tim was voted ‘Great Briton of 2007’ in the Environment category of the Morgan Stanley Great Britons Awards. Tim has taken part in a quantity of television and radio programmes and has been the subject of ‘This is Your Life’ and a guest on ‘Desert Island Discs’. He is a regular speaker at conferences, dinners and other events. Tim is the author of books about both Heligan and Eden and he has contributed to publications on a wide variety of subjects. He lives in Fowey, Cornwall and in his free time he enjoys reading, film, music and art. Alastair Sawday Alastair Sawday is the chairman and founder of Sawday's Special Places to Stay series of guide books recommending over 5,000 inspected hotels, B&Bs and self-catering properties across Europe and beyond. He is committed to all things 'green' and endeavours to promote 'slow' living, sustainable travel and environmental awareness to all his readers. Alastair has had a remarkably miscellaneous and varied career, which has taken him to the most far-flung corners of the globe: he headed up a VSO programme in Papua New Guinea, worked in St Lucia, ran a disaster relief team for Oxfam in Turkey, has taught French and has run a small travel company, conducting walking tours throughout Europe. It was this that inspired him to publish his first travel guide, French Bed & Breakfast, after discovering various 'special' B&Bs and the extraordinary people that run them - away from the impersonal, robotic nature of the large hotel corporations. The books were lapped up, and the initial 10,000 copies sold out within six months, and so, in 1994, Alastair Sawday Publishing was born. Now 30 staff work on 20 titles in the Special Places to Stay travel series and the Fragile Earth imprint. The company work from converted eco-barns in Long Ashton just outside Bristol. Alastair ran as parliamentary candidate for the Green Party in 1992, and was vice-chair of the Soil Association. He was the founder Chairman and Director of Avon Friends of the Earth. He has contributed to The Guardian, The Telegraph, The Observer, The Times, Daily Mail, Observer Food Monthly and many magazines. He has appeared on both Open Country and the Today programme on Radio 4. Stephanie Draper Stephanie Draper is a Director of Forum for the Future. She has over 12 years experience working with business and other organisations on sustainability development, strategy and change. Stephanie is responsible for ensuring that Forum drives the change needed to create a sustainable future as effectively as possible using futures, leadership and innovation. She uses her expertise is in leadership, strategy and change to help organisations and sectors benefit from a sustainable approach – and challenge them a little too. She works with a range of companies on creating strategies that are fit for the future including PepsiCo, Tui Travel plc and Shell. Stephanie leads Forum’s work on travel and tourism. Forum is supporting the sector to be successful and sustainable at the same time through projects such as Tourism 2023, Overland Heaven and Paradise Found. She is one of Travel Weekly’s ones to watch in the industry and is a regular columnist for them. She is a trustee of the Travel Foundation and chair of its activities committee. Kate Rew Kate Rew is a writer and swimmer who founded and runs the world's biggest collective of wild swimmers, the Outdoor Swimming Society. Number two on Monocle's global hotlist of people who deserve a bigger stage in 2010, Kate is described as ‘the driving force behind Britain’s wild swimming movement’ (Triathlon 220). Kate has adventures as often as possible, just as delighted by the undiscovered nearby as skiing, hiking, biking and kayaking her way around the globe. ‘For me, a good adventure is one that challenges you and transports you, that delivers a feeling of newness and untamed happiness. For me it’s not about going further or faster, but about experiencing things more closely. One of the things I love about swimming is that you get that newness right on your doorstep’. In the name of adventure Kate has recently been seen hammering at any icy tarn in her bikini in the Lake District (it didn’t break), taking a surfboard down some grade 3 rapids, and flying off her bike into a small bog on an 18km descent of New Zealand Mountain range The Remarkables. Kate is author of Wild Swim (Guardian, £12.99). Dan Linstead Dan Linstead is the editor of Wanderlust, the UK's leading magazine for independent and adventurous travellers. Prior to joining Wanderlust in 2006, he gained ten years' experience as a magazine editor and journalist, focusing on in-flight and consumer lifestyle titles. He has written extensively on overseas volunteering and community-based tourism, and appears regularly on TV and radio as a travel industry commentator. His most recent travels for the magazine have been to Rajasthan, Romania and Borneo. Miranda Krestovnikoff Miranda is one of the resident wildlife experts on the BBC1’s popular The One Show and award winning Coast. She has also presented How to Holiday Greener – UK for the Travel Channel and Thames Wildlife Superhighway and Country Lives for ITV. Other BBC series include History Mysteries and The Nature of Britain. As an experienced diver, Miranda presented Channel 4’s Wreck Detectives and is the UK front-woman of the new broadband channel the underwater channel.tv. As an accomplished musician, Miranda has presented the BBC Proms and hosted weekend Breakfast Shows for Radio 3. Miranda is a successful public speaker and has presented for the National Geographical Society and UK and Irish Dive shows, amongst others. She writes articles for tourism, lifestyle and leisure and has become one of the country’s leading beachcombing experts launching a major top ten campaign last year. Miranda writes regularly for Diver magazine and co-wrote Scuba Diving for the DK Eyewitness Companians series. Her second book, Best British Beaches was published last year. A keen gardener and cyclist, Miranda lives "the Good Life" just outside Bristol with her husband and two children and 10 chickens. Jan Peter "JP" Bergkvist Jan Peter "JP" Bergkvist has been active in the field of Sustainable Business at an executive level in the hospitality in industry since the early nineties. He had 15 years with Scandic and the last 9 years in an executive management position, including 4 years with Hilton International in the role of Director of Environmental Sustainability. In January 2009, JP stepped back from his position as Vice President Sustainable Business at Scandic to a role of senior advisor working in his own business SleepWell AB. He is a board member of The Swedish Fair-trade labelling organization, The Green Meeting Industry Council GMIC and chairman of the Stockholm Water Prize Founders council. Rochelle Turner Rochelle Turner is an enthusiastic advocate for consumer rights and one of Which?’s key spokespeople. She is involved in investigating and unveiling the companies that confuse and rip people off. Her career started in market research for the travel industry, carrying out projects for a number of the UK’s foremost travel organisations and leisure attractions. In 2006, Rochelle swapped sides and started working for Which? Holiday as Head of Research and now manages the research process for all reports for the magazine and online. Stewart Shepard Stewart works for Mountain Riders, a French environmental ski charity. His responsibilities include the development of its eco guide to ski resorts, the eco guide to ski and outdoor gear and the organisations international development.
- Nominations for Guardian Green Travel List 2011
The nomination period for the Guardian Green Travel List has now closed. Thank you to everyone who sent in a nomination. We have had a fantastic response and have received hundreds of nominations for a wide range of inspiring projects. Those companies that have been selected to appear on the long list were sent a questionnaire and the final short list appeared in the travel section of the Guardian newspaper on Saturday 4 November. Congratulations to all those who made it on to the list, and thanks to all the wonderful nominations that were sent in. Nominate a green initiative and have the chance of winning a six-night easy cycling holiday in the Loire The Guardian's Green Travel List is a guide to companies worldwide that have shown evidence of commitment to community, place and the environment. If you've been inspired by a company, project, organisation or eco initiative, we'd love to hear about it. We're looking for innovative projects, such as hotels that provide their own renewable energy, visitor centres and attractions that have significantly cut their carbon emissions, low emissions transport initiatives, and authentic community projects worldwide that genuinely give back to the local people and the destination. Please send suggestions to: info@greentraveller.co.uk, stating clearly: 1. The name of the project and relevant website 2. The category you'd like to nominate it for, choose from the following: Accommodation Transport Days Out/Visitor Attractions Community Projects Holidays 3. Why you think it should be included in the Green Travel List (200 words max) In particular, we are seeking travel and tourism companies who have been really creative and innovative in thinking about how they can be more sustainable. We want to know about innovations in technology and use of technology, but also in marketing, business models, pricing or product design. The aim is to create a list of companies that have been the most innovative in some respect in order to make their business more sustainable. The List is published in The Guardian in association with greentraveller.co.uk. The Chair of Judges is Dr Graham Miller, Head of School of Hospitality and Tourism Management at the University of Surrey. The list will be published in the Guardian newspaper in late Spring. Please send suggestions to: info AT greentraveller.co.uk, stating clearly: 1. The name of the project and relevant website 2. The category you'd like to nominate it for, choose from the following: AccommodationTransportDays Out/Visitor AttractionsCommunity ProjectsHolidays, eg. winter/summer activities 3. Why you think it should be included in the Green Travel List (200 words max). >> The nomination period for the Guardian Green Travel List has now closed. Those companies that have been selected to appear on the long list will be sent a questionnaire by 22 April. Those who email a suggestion by midnight on 9 April will be entered into a prize draw. Three winners will be selected at random and will receive one of three green holiday prizes: 1. A six-night easy cycling holiday, Chateaux of the Loire, with Inntravel, including rail travel from London, for two people, worth around £1,700. Routes cover 12-28 miles a day, with time to visit vineyards, historic abbeys and fairytale chateaux. The holiday includes accommodation at four hotels, breakfast each day, plus four dinners, luggage transfers, cycle hire, cycling notes and maps, Eurostar and TGV rail travel from London and local transfers. The prize must be taken by 31 October 2011 and is subject to availability. 2. A two-night break at the luxurious but sustainable Scarlet Hotel in Mawgan Porth, Cornwall, for two people, including one evening meal in the restaurant. The prize will be valid until 19 December 2011 and is subject to availability. 3. Two InterRail tickets from Rail Europe, which cover rail travel on five of 10 days, with first class Eurostar tickets for two people from London to Paris. Valid for one year from the date the winner is announced. Winners will be notified by the end of April. For full terms and conditions, see: Terms and conditions for the Guardian Green List 2011 competition. The nominations will then be shortlisted and sent a questionnaire asking for more details about their green initiative. A panel of judges will then then select which entries appear on the final Green Travel List. The panel of judges is chaired by Dr Graham Miller, and includes Chris Johnson, director of Wild Jordan, the eco tourism organisation in Jordan that won the Guardian Travel Awards’ responsible tourism prize in 2010; Tim Smit, Chief Executive and co-founder of The Eden Project; Greg Stevenson, founder of Under the Thatch, the collection of self-catering properties in Wales that won the Guardian Travel Awards’ ethical travel prize in 2007; greentraveller's founder Richard Hammond, and Andy Pietrasik & Gemma Bowes, travel editors at the Guardian newspaper and online travel section. Read the results of last year's Guardian Green Travel List, which was published in the Guardian newspaper on Saturday 20 February 2010.
- Green Travel List 2011
The 2011 Guardian Green Travel List, in association with greentraveller.co.uk, is published in today's Guardian newspaper, Saturday 4 November: The Guardian Green Travel List 2011. This annual list is a guide to 25 travel and tourism initiatives worldwide that have shown evidence of commitment to community, place and the environment. We received hundreds of nominations (from readers of the Guardian and via twitter and the greentraveller facebook page) of fantastic initiatives from all over the world, which the judges have whittled down to a final list of the 25 best. This year we were looking for innovative projects, such as hotels that provide their own renewable energy, visitor centres and attractions that have significantly cut their carbon emissions, low emissions transport initiatives, and authentic community projects worldwide that genuinely contribute to the livelihoods of local people and contribute to biodiversity conservation. For more information on the judging process, see: Judging the Green Travel List. With thanks to Gemma Bowes, Andy Pietrasik and Gavin McGowan at the Guardian. See also the Guardian Green Travel List 2010
- Guardian Green Travel List 2010 in full
For more information about the Green Travel List, the selection criteria and the judges see: About the Green Travel List Click on the headings below for more information about the entries in each category. Small Hotels, UK & Ireland Trericket Mill, Powys YHA Langdon Beck, Northumberland Brignall Mill, North East England La Rosa Hotel and Campsite, Yorkshire Trelowarren Estate, Cornwall The Straw Bale Cottage, East Yorkshire Strattons Hotel, Norfolk Ecocabin, Shropshire Southwaite Green, Cumbria Yarde Orchard, Devon Cnoc Suain, Ireland The Hytte, Northumberland The Ecolodge, Lincolnshire The Old Schoolhouse, Ireland Coopershill, Ireland The Really Green Holiday Company, Isle of Wight Ard Nahoo Eco Retreat, Ireland Small Hotels, Worldwide Agroturismo Can Marti, Spain The Hoopoe Yurt Hotel, Spain Locanda della Valle Nuova, Italy Hotel Posada del Valle, Spain Les Orangeries, France Canvaschic, France Wilderness Lodges of New Zealand Bulungula Backpackers Lodge, South Africa L'Ayalga Posada Ecológica, Spain Aurum Lodge, Canada Chumbe Island Coral Park Ltd (CHICOP), Tanzania Le Camp, France The Orri de Planès, France Auberge Les Liards, France E'Terra, Canada Chalet Châtelet, France Sandele Eco-Retreat and Learning Centre, Gambia Summer Activities Jersey Kayak Adventures Ltd TheCanoeMan/Activ-8 Preseli Venture Wilderness Scotland Nature Travels Ltd Global Boarders Ltd The Eco-Frontiers Ranch Pure Mountains Off the Rails Winter Activities Mountainbug Inntravel Ltd Iglu-Dorf GmbH La Source Tracks and Trails Large Hotels, Worldwide Premier Inn - Tamworth, UK Apex Hotels, UK Hotel Sigiriya PLC, Sri Lanka Transport Eurostar UK Ltd Green Tomato Cars Arriva plc Brittany Ferries Visitor Attractions BeWILDerwood, Norfolk GreenWood Forest Park, Wales New Lanark Visitor Centre, Scotland Coed y Brenin Visitor Centre, Forestry Commission Wales, North Wales The Deep Aquarium, Hull Goodleaf Tree Climbing, Isle of Wight Greenheart Ibiza / Casita Verde, Spain ZEALANDIA: (formerly 'The Karori Sanctuary Experience'), New Zealand Wildlife Watching Steppes Discovery Naturetrek Inkaterra Community Projects Rwanda Eco-Tours, Rwanda Tropic Journeys in Nature, Ecuador T.E.S.F.A. (Tourism in Ethiopia for Sustainable Future Alternatives), Ethiopia Andaman Discoveries, Thailand Finca Esperanza Verde, Nicaragua Yachana Lodge / Yachana Foundation, Ecuador Feynan Ecolodge, Jordan The Green Travel List was published in the Guardian on Saturday 20 February.
- Guardian Green Travel List 2010
The 2010 Guardian Green Travel List is published in association with greentraveller.co.uk and and Forum for the Future. The Chair of Judges is Dr Graham Miller, Director of International Studies at the University of Surrey. The entire list was published in the Guardian's travel supplement on Saturday 20 February 2010. The aim of the Green Travel List is to help you find a greener holiday. It does not single out individual 'winners’, instead the idea is to provide a comprehensive list of a wide range of companies that have introduced significant changes to their business, the products they offer and the way they perform. These companies have convinced us that sustainability is at the heart of their business. An introduction to the Green Travel List, by Dr Graham Miller, Director of International Studies at the University of Surrey and Chair of Judges of the Green Travel List. The following people have made the Green Travel List happen: Richard Hammond, founder of greentraveller.co.uk, and Liane Katz, editor of the Travel section of guardian.co.uk Andy Pietrasik, head of travel content, Guardian, and Isabel Choat, travel editor, Guardian Dr Graham Miller, Director of International Studies at the University of Surrey Stephanie Draper, Director, Forum for the Future Adriana Maldonado, Coordinator, Green Travel List and Special Projects Manager, greentraveller.co.uk John Sannaee, Special Projects Administrator, greentraveller.co.uk and Catherine Mack, co-editor, greentraveller.co.uk And the judges: Tim Smit, Chief Executive and co-founder of The Eden Project Alastair Sawday, chairman and founder of Sawday's Special Places to Stay guide books Rochelle Turner, Head of Research, Which? Holiday Miranda Krestovnikoff, wildlife expert and television presenter Jan Peter Bergkvist, former Vice President Sustainable Business, Scandic Hotels Leo Hickman, features journalist and editor at the Guardian Dan Linstead, editor of Wanderlust magazine Kate Rew, founder of the Outdoor Swimming Society Stewart Sheppard, Manager, Eco Guides, Mountain Riders. For information on how the Green Travel List was compiled, see The Judging Process.
- French rail cooperative unveils plans to re-open Bordeaux-Lyon train line
by Richard Hammond Railcoop, a French rail cooperative, has unveiled plans to run passenger trains on the Bordeaux-Lyon line, which has been closed since 2014. Railcoop declared its plans to the French Transport Regulatory Authority - an important step in the organisation's plan to roll out the service in the summer of 2022. Since the abolition of the service in 2014, there hasn't been a direct rail link between Lyon - the second largest metropolis in France- and Bordeaux - the fifth largest. “The Province-Province conventional train market remains largely untapped in France. However, there is a strong demand”, said Dominique Guerrée, the President of Railcoop. The planned rail journey between Bordeaux and Lyon through the north of the Massif Central will stop off at the following railway stations: Libourne, Périgueux, Limoges, Saint-Sulpice-Laurière, Guéret, Montluçon, Gannat, Saint-Germain-des-Fossés, and Roanne. With an expected journey time of 6 hours 47 minutes, the service will actually be slower than the Bordeaux to Lyon rail journey via Paris, but, according to Quentin Neurohr, member of Railcoop and director of COPOMO, a mobility consultancy, speed isn't everything: “There is a real demand for direct, comfortable, safe, affordable rail services for which speed is secondary”. If Railcoop's plans are successful, it says it plans to open other services, including passenger trains, night trains, and freight trains, which will run on existing infrastructure. Railcoop currently has more than 300 members in France. More information: www.railcoop.fr See also: Air France ordered to curb competition with rail in France
























