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  • Writer's pictureGreen Traveller

Places to eat in Las Alpujarras

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Las Alpujarras, here is a selection of places to find local food and wine served in cafes and restaurants in this little-known region of Spain.

Las Chimeneas. All photos: Diana Jarvis/Greentraveller

The contrast between coast and mountains is Las Alpujarras may have been a rural backwater for centuries, but its cuisine is far from poor – rustic, perhaps; plentiful and flavoursome, certainly. Some dishes and ingredients will be familiar from elsewhere in Spain, but the local culinary lexicon has a unique accent born of the ingredients and cooking techniques that proliferated in the region.

The uppermost towns and villages of Las Alpujarras are renowned for their jamón serrano (mountain ham); the cool air and low humidity help produce some of Spain’s finest. There’s plentiful olive oil, red peppers and wonderful fruits – cherries, black figs and nispero (Japanese quince).. Almonds are common, adding a delicious milky flavour and texture to ajo blanco (chilled white almond and garlic soup).

Though this area hasn’t historically been widely known for its wines, there are several top-notch producers, particularly in the lower eastern stretches of Las Alpujarras.

Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Las Alpujarras:

Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities

Places to eat in Las Alpujarras

Jamones Muñoz, Las Alpujarras, Spain

It has to be said that a dried ham is a curious-looking thing – with its hoof and greyish-tinged side, it doesn’t have the most appetising appearance. Yet when sliced tissue-thin, a fine jamon can be among the most delectable morsels in Andalucia. The best are produced in the dry air of the high-altitude villages of the Sierra Nevada; Trevélez, the loftiest town in Las Alpujarras, is renowned for the output of its 20 or so producers. But in the village of Yegen is a small artisan dryer, Jamones Muñoz, where you can learn how the hams are prepared and dried, as well as enjoying a tasting session of the chorizo, longaniza, lomo and other delectables. There’s a cute shop selling crafts, jams, chocolates and other goodies, too.

Veleta Wines / Dominio Buenavista, Las Alpujarras, Spain

This organic vineyard produces an array of award-winning tipples, from rich cabernet sauvignons and temperanillos to fruity chardonnays and vijiriega grapes typical of Las Alpujarras. There are also fine rosés and sparkling cavas. Visit the winery to learn about the biodynamic production techniques and to taste the best vintages.

Nestares Rincón, Las Alpujarras, Spain

At 1352m, the Juan de Reyes estate is reputedly the highest in Europe. It produces a limited range of organic reds using tempranillo, merlot, syrah and petit verdot grapes, which you can taste at the Museum and Interpretation Centre. There’s also a good restaurant serving typical Alpujarran dishes such as plato alpujarreño (Alpujarran plate: potatoes with sausage and egg), eggs with morcilla (blood sausage) and ajo blanco – almond and garlic soup served with melon.

Bodega Fuente Victoria, Las Alpujarras, Spain

Lying at around 1000m in the Láujar valley of the eastern Alpujarra, this winery has concentrated its efforts on producing three wines of high quality: the Sulayr white, with macabeo and viognier grapes; Cabal Tinto, 100% tempranillo; and Talento, a blend of syrah with a touch of cabernet sauvigon. Pre-booked group tours visit the vineyards, introduce the production methods and finish with a tasting.

Restaurant Las Chimeneas, Las Alpujarras, Spain

The kitchen in this charming little restaurant attached to the guesthouse of the same name is the domain of Soledad and Conchita, who rustle up a choice of dishes for dinner each evening. Vegetarians aren’t short-changed, with at least one tempting option for each of the three dinner courses – perhaps ajo blanco (chilled almond and garlic soup) followed by stuffed aubergines with goats cheese and rounded off with a sinful fig cake produced by baking supremo Andrew. There’s a well-chosen selection of Alpujarran wines to wash it all down, and a terrace with sweeping views south towards the Med.

Restaurante La Fragua, Las Alpujarras, Spain

The restaurant of the hotel of the same name focuses on typical dishes of Las Alpujarras and the wider Mediterranean. Try the oddly named blacksmith’s eggs (casserole of sausage, ham and egg, baked with cheese), Moorish lamb roasted with herbs, almond and dried fruit, or whole partridge cooked with onions, carrots, peppers, nuts and garlic. Also serves a great version of the classic Granadan dish of remojon, essentially a salad of oranges and salt cod. There’s an attractive terrace for dining al fresco on warm days.


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