Green Traveller's Guide to taking the train from London St Pancras International Railway Station to Hamburg, Germany. Winter scene. Photo: Wix Media Journey Time: from 8 hours 37 mins Sample timetable: Depart London 9.01am, arrive Hamburg 7.14pm Changes: 2 Transfer: Quick same-station change of platform within Brussels Midi station and another at Cologne Hbf railway station Frequency of Departures: 11/day Carbon emissions: 23.1kg (flight would be 130.5kg)* Train tickets provided by Trainline: Tickets provided by Trainline, which allows you to buy tickets for multiple train operators in multiple European countries. It does charge a small booking fee, but offers several useful facilities, such as a free email alert service to let you know as soon as bookings open for your chosen route so you can snap up the cheapest tickets when they become available. How to book train tickets as part of a package with accommodation If you want someone to book the whole journey for you or combine it with staying in hotels en route, get in touch with the travel agent Byway through its page for booking enquiries . What's the journey like? Take the Eurostar to Brussels Midi station where there's an easy same-station platform change to board the high-speed Thalys or ICE trains to Cologne. Keep an eye out on the platform at Brussels for the handy guide to the layout of incoming trains, which shows you where your carriage will arrive into the station so you can make your way to the correct part of the platform before the train arrives.   On arrival at Cologne, you then have to change trains to take the Intercity train to Hamburg (a journey of about 4 hours). Stopover hotels to break the journey in Brussels and Cologne If you want to break the journey and stay overnight to see a bit more of Brussels and/or Cologne while you're travelling through, there are lots of lovely places to stay near Brussels Midi and Cologne Hbf railway stations (we've stayed at Hostel Koln , which is about a 20-minute walk from the railway station). Here are some examples of hotels that are conveniently nearby: Hotels near Brussels Midi and Hotels near Cologne Hbf Hostel Kohn, one of several eco-friendly places to stay if you want to stop off in Cologne en route to Hamburg Miss your connection? Don’t panic. Railteam’s ‘Hop on the Next Available Train’ service means that if you have missed your connection because of a delay on the preceding leg of your journey, you’ll automatically be put on the next available high-speed train. NB Remember to get your ticket stamped by your Train Manager. For more overland train routes to Germany, see our Flight-Free Train & Ferry Journey Planner On arrival Willkommen in Hamburg! By the banks of the River Elbe in northern Germany, Hamburg is a waterfront city with lots of great cafes, restaurants, shops, theatres, museums, galleries, and a vibrant nightlife scene. There are lots of hotels near the train station, see below: Hotels near Hamburg's train station We sent writer Anna Shepard by train to Hamburg, here's what she had to say: "Before setting off for a weekend in Hamburg, I told my German neighbours where I was headed. “There are lots of parks and expensive cafes, but it's not as fun as Berlin," they told me. "Why don’t you go there?” Everyone knows you can have a good time in the country's eclectic capital, but I wanted something different. And my interest was piqued by Hamburg's reputation as Germany’s greenest city, with fantastic public transport, bike-loving citizens and fairtrade boutiques." Read her full review: Hamburg, Germany's greenest city? Gute Reise! * Data for carbon emissions

There are many ways to travel overland from the UK to The Netherlands without flying; by taking the ferry (either in a car or as a foot passenger), by coach or by Eurostar, or, by car through the Eurotunnel. One of the most popular routes is the shortest ferry journey, which goes from Harwich (on the east coast of England) to the Hook of Holland (on the west coast of The Netherlands) from where there is a seamless connection with rail services to Rotterdam, Amsterdam and the rest of the country. There are also longer ferry services across the North Sea from Newcastle and Hull, or if you want to go by train, the Eurostar has a direct service from London St Pancras station to Amsterdam in under 4 hours. Click on the links below to the go directly to the relevant section on this page: Ferry from Harwich to Hook of Holland Ferry from Newcastle to Amsterdam Ferry from Hull to Rotterdam Eurostar from London to Amsterdam Coach from the UK to The Netherlands Car via The Channel Tunnel to The Netherlands Foot passengers: For detailed information to how to take public transport to ferry ports, see our Guide to travelling as a foot passenger from the UK to Europe . Images: Stenaline Peter Mild, DFDS room and restaurant, ferry from Newcastle to Amsterdam, Flixbus coach service, Eurostar to Amsterdam By ferry from Harwich to Hook of Holland, The Netherlands The shortest ferry route across the North Sea from the UK is from Harwich in Essex with Stena Line to The Hook of Holland (known as ‘Hoek van Holland’). From Scotland it takes from at least 6.5 hours to reach Harwich by train via London, or 14 hours by bus, the cheapest option. You can then choose to go across the North Sea either during the day or overnight. Journey time: it is a   7-8 hour crossing (day time or overnight) Here are approximate journey times not including an overnight stay for the morning ferry: Timings:  departs Harwich at 9am, arrives Hook of Holland at 17.15; overnight service departs Harwich at 23:00, arrives Hook of Holland at 08:00. Facilities:  restaurants and bars, a cinema and shops Sleeper Cabins:  on the overnight ferry you can choose from a range of cabins, from a single inside cabin with television and ensuite bathroom to cabins for two, three, four of five people, including the Comfort Class cabins with sea view and complimentary minibar. Luggage: There’s no limit on luggage. Foot passengers with bicycles pay an extra fee of £5 for adults and £2.50 for children and it costs £20 to bring your dog, which must travel in a kennel. Ferry sailing times and journey times can change so check the website for the latest times. From Newcastle to Amsterdam by Ferry DFDS runs an overnight service for foot passengers from Newcastle to Amsterdam, departing at 17.00 Journey time: 15.5 hours (overnight) Timings: Departs Newcastle 17:00, arrives Amsterdam 9.45am. If you're travelling by train, there's a transfer bus from Newcastle railway station to the International Ferry Terminal. These DFDS buses operate from Berwick Street opposite Newcastle Central Station to the ferry terminal at times to coincide with its sailings. Bus tickets must be bought in advance online or over the phone. Facilities on board the ferry: bars, restaurants, casino, cinema and kids club Sleeper Cabins: take from 2-5 people, and, unlike most ferry operators that insist dogs are kept in cars or kennels, there are cabins suitable for up to two dogs to travel alongside their owners. Luggage: There’s no limit on luggage. Foot passengers can travel with a bicycle for a charge of £5 each way, and those without wheels can hop onto a coach on arrival at the port of Ijmuiden to travel the 25 miles into central Amsterdam. Cruise: DFDS offers a ‘mini cruise’ option, which includes breaks in Amsterdam from five hours to two nights and include coach transfers at either end. From Amsterdam it’s easy to connect by rail to cities and regions across the Netherlands, as well as onto France, Belgium, Luxembourg, Germany, Italy, Switzerland and beyond. By ferry from Hull to Rotterdam South of Newcastle, P&O Ferries runs an overnight ferry between Hull and Rotterdam. Journey time: 12 hours (overnight), plus the minimum 90-minute check-in for the ferry. On arrival at Hull station by train, there’s a bus that goes to the port from the adjoining interchange station. Number 70 operates from Paragon Interchange to the ferry terminal at 5pm and takes 15 minutes, but for more flexibility, a taxi is a good bet. Timings: Hull to Rotterdam departs 20:30 and arrives Rotterdam at 8:15 (9:00 at weekends) Facilities: Restaurants, bars, cinemas, a casino and kids play area. Sleeper Cabins: options range from a standard cabin, with a toilet and shower room, to a sea view cabin or a club cabin with extra space and a television - sleeping between two and five people per cabin. Luggage: There’s no limit on luggage, and you can travel with a pet and a bicycle. Pets are charged at £22 each way and must travel in a kennel. Bicycles are carried free of charge but only one is allowed per foot passenger booking, so a group travelling with multiple bikes need to make a separate booking per bike. Cruise: You can book the ferry solely as transport, but for some, it’s the holiday in itself - a mini cruise out of Hull with P&O offers two nights on a ferry to and from Rotterdam with a day trip (which can be extended to an extra night) to explore the city between sailings. Themed mini breaks take this up a notch with entertainment such as live music or darts competitions onboard. Many passengers use Rotterdam as a gateway to Brussels, Antwerp or Paris but from either point, it is straight-forward to connect by rail to other destinations in the Netherlands and Belgium as well as Germany, Luxembourg  and France. Train from the UK to The Netherlands Eurostar runs a direct services from London St Pancras to Rotterdam (3 hours 13 mins) and Amsterdam (3 hours 52 mins). Do check your ticket to find out the latest recommended time to arrive before your train departs - it can vary quite a lot, from 45 minutes (for Eurostar Premier) to up to 90 mins (for Eurostar Standard). On board Eurostar, there’s a bar-buffet carriage that sells a range of hot and cold, alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks, including champagne, as well as snacks and wholesome, hearty dishes. For those with standard premier tickets, light refreshments are served at your table, including a fresh, light, healthy meal, tea, coffee and soft drinks, and a glass of wine or beer. It’s about 30 mins from London to the Channel Tunnel, then, after about 20 minutes in the tunnel, you emerge for the quick onward journey through the beautiful countryside of northern France and Belgium, on to Rotterdam and then Amsterdam. Eurostar's direct service from London to Amsterdam is less than 4 hours. Photo: Eurostar There are a myriad reasons to visit Amsterdam: this compact capital packs a big punch when it comes to history, art, architecture, and contemporary chic. A relaxed, liberal vibe pervades and there is no shortage of cosy cafés, stylish boutiques, and appetising restaurants in which to enjoy all the city has to offer. Whether you’ve come to discover the latest in design, to visit some of the world’s great art collections, to indulge in some of the city’s less salubrious pleasures, or just to stroll and admire the traditional houses reflected in Amsterdam’s many canals – there’s something for just about everyone at any budget. For more information on Amsterdam, including hotels, restaurants and markets selling fresh local produce, museums and other attractions , see our Green Traveller's Guide to Amsterdam : Coach from the UK to The Netherlands Travelling by coach can be the cheapest way to travel across to The Netherlands.  Flixbus , which now incorporates the Eurolines and Isilines bus companies, runs services across the UK to London Victoria from where you can join its international coach service for several cities in The Netherlands, including Amsterdam , Rotterdam, The Hague, and Utrecht . The coaches have free wifi, charging sockets, toilets, and on some journeys food and drink is sold onboard in addition to the refreshment stops. The cost varies depending on the route, time of year and so on, so check the coach operator’s website for fares. Flixbus also had a trip tracker so you can see where your coach is on its journey. Luggage:  You can take a hand luggage bag and medium-sized bag for the hold weighing no more than 20kg. Only folding bicycles are accepted. Facilities:  Coaches are air conditioned and have wi-fi and USB charging points as well as toilets and while no refreshments are sold onboard, you can pack your own food and drink for the journey and stops are made at service stations to stock up on supplies. Bikes: Bikes can be taken on the bike rack from €9 per journey. The distinctive green colour of the Flixbus coaches National Express , which runs lots of intercity coach services throughout the UK, has teamed up with BlaBlaCar to run intercity coach services (go to the National Express international website ), including to cities within The Netherlands. The same luggage restrictions apply with one piece of hand luggage and one hold luggage up to 20kg. Car from the UK via LeShuttle to The Netherlands The quickest way to cross the channel in a car is via LeShuttle (formerly known as Eurotunnel Le Shuttle) through the Channel Tunnel (it takes just 35 minutes), from where you can then drive over to the Netherlands via northern France and Belgium. Departures leave from Folkestone and arrive in to Calais in France. There are up to four departures an hour so typically you don't have long to wait before you board the shuttle. At the terminal in Folkestone, there are food outlets and duty free shopping, and even pet exercise areas. Electric car charging for LeShuttle: The terminals at LeShuttle do have charging facilities for electric cars. At Folkestone there are four 210 kw EV Box Modular Engie Ultra Rapid chargers, while at the Calais terminal there eight 210 kW ultra rapid chargers. There are also Tesla Superchargers at the terminal buildings on both sides of the Channel. NB. all electric car chargers are at the main terminal building in Folkestone, not at the Folkestone Flexiplus lounge car park. Cars entering Le Shuttle. Photo: Getlinkgroup/Le Shuttle ============ Please note : The information on this page aims to give you a reasonable idea of ferry, train, coach and car routes, times and tickets, in order that hopefully there’s enough detail to know what's available, how to plan an overland journey and where to book tickets. The information was up to date at time of publication, but services do change from time to time and we cannot take responsibility for any errors or inaccuracies we provide. Always confirm details when you book with the relevant travel operator. If you are aware of any inaccuracies, we'd really appreciate being informed via our contact page  so we can make the relevant changes to the information provided for the benefit of other travellers. Bon Voyage!

There are lots of ways to travel from Wales to Europe without flying - by train, coach, ferry (in a car or as a foot passenger) or a combination of all three. By and large, for journeys to France by ferry, it’s quickest to travel overland from Wales to the south coast of England to catch ferries across the English Channel, unless you live close to Holyhead in North Wales - where it’s possible to take the Holyhead-Dublin ferry then take a ferry to Cherbourg, but with a journey time of at least 22 hours, it’s still often easier to head to Poole, Portsmouth, Plymouth, Newhaven or even Dover. From these south coast ports, Europe is your oyster. You can catch a ferry with Brittany Ferries from Poole to Cherbourg and Plymouth to Roscoff or Santander, but the greatest choice of destinations is from Portsmouth, with services to Le Harve, Caen, Cherbourg, St Malo, Bilbao and Santander. Newhaven is connected to Dieppe with DFDS, but Dover has the greatest choice of sailings to France with 50 departures a day in peak season across the Channel. For Calais you can choose P&O Ferries or sail with DFDS, which also runs a route to Dunkirk. Getting to the south coast ferry ports by public transport is cheapest by coach, with journeys from Cardiff, for example, taking between 5.5 and 7.5 hours to reach the south coast ports. The same journeys by train take 3.5 to 5.5 hours, and while Dover is the furthest away it can take under 4 hours to reach because of the high speed rail line from London. From mid and north Wales, you need to add at least two hours to these coach and rail times with many services travelling via Birmingham or London to reach the south coast ferry ports. For detailed information to how to take public transport to the UK's ferry ports, see Green Traveller's Guide to travelling as a foot passenger from the UK to Europe . If you want to get to the Netherlands from Wales without flying, the Harwich-Amsterdam ferry is an option but it’s much quicker to take the Eurostar train via London or the Dover-Calais car ferry and drive. If you’d rather go by road or rail, coaches and trains heading to the continent both use the Channel Tunnel, so you have to factor in the time it takes to travel east to London. If you take the train, once on the other side of the tunnel, you’re then connected to the European high-speed rail network, which can whizz you to many European capitals and beyond within hours. Our team has tried and tested many of the routes and so we have tried to summarise all the available options in this post based on our experience. From Wales to Europe by ferry Examples of total journey times including allowance for check-in and transfers where relevant: Cardiff for ferry to Calais: 6.5/7 hours to go by car/train and ferry Cardiff for ferry to Cherbourg: 6.5/7.5 to go by car/train and ferry (from Portsmouth) Cardiff for ferry to Santander: 22/23 hours to go by car/train and ferry (from Plymouth) Swansea for ferries from south of England: add a further 30-60 minutes to the above journey times. You can sail with Brittany Ferries during the day or overnight from Poole, Portsmouth and Plymouth with journeys taking between 3 and 11 hours depending on the route and departure time. The fastest crossings are to Cherbourg from Portsmouth and Poole. The Le Harve offers more budget ‘no-frills’ day and overnight ferries that have limited entertainment onboard and a more simple restaurant. The Caen route has the greatest choice of day or night sails. For access to northern France, Belgium and the Netherlands, there is a vast choice of services from Dover to Calais and Dunkirk with P&O Ferries and DFDS, but only the former accepts foot passengers on these routes. Portsmouth to Le Harve with Brittany Ferries Journey time: day and overnight ferries that take between 5.5 and 10 hours Timings: at least one daily departure, with up to two a day in the peak summer season. Departs Portsmouth 23:00 or 23:30, arrives Le Harve 8:00 or 08:30, with an extra seasonal departures - see website for details Facilities on board: small bar, self service restaurant, cinema, small shop and kids play area Sleeper Cabins: take from 2-4 people (6 berth on some ferries), including cabins suitable for a dog to travel alongside its owner Luggage: there’s no limit on luggage. Foot passengers can travel with a bicycle for a small charge each way. Other info: Le Harve is the closest port to Paris by car. Book a ferry from Portsmouth to Le Havre >> Portsmouth to Caen with Brittany Ferries Journey time: 6-7 hours Timings: daily departures in the peak summer season. Greatest choice of sailing times at 08:15, 14.45, 22:00 and 22:45 depending on the day and season Facilities on board: bar, restaurants, cinema, entertainment for adults and children, shops and kids play area Sleeper Cabins: take from 2-4 people and some ferries have cabins suitable for a dog to travel alongside its owner Luggage: there’s no limit on luggage. Foot passengers can travel with a bicycle for a small charge each way. Other info: from Caen you can connect to the high speed rail network in France via Le Mans or get to Paris by rail in two hours. Book a ferry from Portsmouth to Caen >> Portsmouth to Cherbourg with Brittany Ferries Journey time: 3 hours Timings: daily departures in the peak summer season. Leaves Portsmouth at 09:00, arriving in Cherbourg at 13:00, with extra departures depending on the season Facilities on board: lounge with reclining seats, shop, cafe and bar Luggage: there’s no limit on luggage. Foot passengers can travel with a bicycle for a small charge each way. Other info: from Cherbourg it is three hours to Paris by train but most people take a car as you can drive onto Normandy in just over an hour. Book a ferry from Portsmouth to Cherbourg >> Portsmouth to St Malo with Brittany Ferries Journey time: 7-11 hours Timings: sailings every day during the peak summer season. Leaves Portsmouth at 20:15, arriving in Cherbourg at 08:15, with slight changes to timings depending on the season and some day crossings from St Malo Facilities on board: cinemas, cabaret and live entertainment, restaurants, bar, cafe, shopping Sleeper cabins: 2-4 berth cabins Luggage: there’s no limit on luggage. Foot passengers can travel with a bicycle for a small charge each way. Other info: one of the boats on the route (Pont Aven) has a pool and leisure area. From St Malo you can drive to Brittany in 1.5 hours and the Dordogne in 6 hours. Otherwise by train you can get to Rennes in under an hour and Paris in three hours. Book a ferry from Portsmouth to St Malo >> Portsmouth to Bilbao with Brittany Ferries Journey time: 24-32 hours Timings: up to three return crossings each week. Leaves Portsmouth at 08:45, 12:00 or 22:30, depending on the day and season. Sundays sailings offer two nights onboard Facilities on board: restaurants, bar, cafe, shopping, pool, spa, cinema, children’s play area Sleeper cabins: 2-4 berth cabins including a cabin that accommodates a pet alongside its owners Luggage: there’s no limit on luggage. Foot passengers can travel with a bicycle for a small charge each way. Other info: opt for a Tuesday daytime crossing aboard the ‘no-frills’ ships, Baie de Seine or Connemara, for a more affordable crossing. Some crossings offer whale and dolphin spotting with the ‘ ORCA wildlife officers’. As with Santander, the Alsa coach service is best for onward journeys by public transport unless you are heading south by train towards Madrid. Book a ferry from Portsmouth to Bilbao >> Portsmouth to Santander with Brittany Ferries Journey time: 24-32 hours Timings: two return crossings each week. Leaves Portsmouth at around 08:45 or 17:00 depending on the day and season Facilities on board: restaurants, bar, cafe, shopping, pool, spa, cinema, children’s play area Sleeper cabins: 2-4 berth cabins including a cabin that accommodates a pet alongside its owners Luggage: there’s no limit on luggage. Foot passengers can travel with a bicycle for a small charge each way. Other info: opt for a ‘no-frills’ ship for a more affordable crossing, which operates during peak season - check the Brittany Ferries website for details. Some crossings offer whale and dolphin spotting with the ‘ ORCA wildlife officers’. For journeys on from Santander, the rail network works best if you want to head south, with Madrid a four-hour journey away and Leon 3.5 hours, but for east-west journeys, it’s best to travel by car or by bus with Alsa the leading coach company in the region. Book a ferry from Portsmouth to Santander >> Poole to Cherbourg with Brittany Ferries Journey time: 4.5 hours (9 hours for overnight return crossing) Timings: up to two return crossings per day in peak summer season. Leaves Poole at around 08:30 and arrives at 14:00, depending on the day and season Facilities on board: restaurant, bar, cafe, shop, children’s play area Sleeper cabins: 2-4 berth cabins Luggage: there’s no limit on luggage. Foot passengers can travel with a bicycle for a small charge each way. Other info: from Cherbourg it is three hours to Paris by train but most people take a car as you can drive onto Normandy in just over an hour. Book a ferry from Poole to Cherbourg >> Plymouth to Santander with Brittany Ferries Journey time: 18.5 hours Timings: one sailing per week departing on Sundays at 16:45, arriving in Santander at 12:15, returning Wednesdays Facilities on board: restaurants, bars, cafe, shops, pool, live entertainment, cinemas, spa, children’s play area Sleeper cabins: 2-4 berth cabins Luggage: there’s no limit on luggage. Foot passengers can travel with a bicycle for a small charge each way. Other info: Brittany Ferries’ mini cruise package offers two nights on board the ship, Pont Aven on the journey out and back, plus two nights in Santander. For journeys on from Santander, the rail network works best if you want to head south, with Madrid a four-hour journey away and Leon 3.5 hours, but for east-west journeys, it’s best to travel by car or by bus with Alsa the leading coach company in the region. Book a ferry from Plymouth to Santander >> Plymouth to Roscoff with Brittany Ferries Journey time: 6-8 hours Timings: up to two return crossings per day in peak summer season with day and overnight options. Leaves Plymouth at around 08:00 and/or 22:00, depending on the day and season Facilities on board: restaurants, bars, cafe, shops, live entertainment, cinemas, children’s play area, pool and spa (on some crossings) Sleeper cabins: 2-4 berth cabins Luggage: there’s no limit on luggage. Fo ot passengers can travel with a bicycle for a small charge each way. Other info: Roscoff is well placed for holidays in Brittany, Normandy and the Loir e Book a ferry from Plymouth to Roscoff >> Newhaven to Dieppe with DFDS Journey time: 4 hours Timings: 3 daily sailings in both directions May-September (2 daily sailings at other times) Facilities on board: restaurant, bar, shop, children’s play area Sleeper cabins: 2-4 berth cabins Luggage: there’s no limit on luggage. Foot passengers can travel with a bicycle free of charge. Other info: you can travel by coach from Dieppe to Paris in 2.5 hours or connect to the intercity French rail network via Rouen Book a ferry from Newhaven to Dieppe >> Dover to Calais with P&O Ferries Journey time: 1.5 hours Timings: up to 2 3 daily sailings in both directions, depending on the time of year Facilities on board: food court, restaurant, cafe, bar, shop, kid’s club Luggage: there’s no limit on luggage. Foot passengers can travel with a bicycle free of charge but must book the bicycle in advance with one bicycle per booking so groups with multiple bicycles need to make separate bookings. Other info: there are four ticket types from Saver to Premier, which give you varying flexibility, wifi access and lounge access. Only passengers travelling with a car can bring their pet Dover to Calais with DFDS Journey time: 1.5 hours Timings: up to 30 daily sailings in both directions, depending on the time of year Facilities on board: restaurant, cafe, bar, shop, kid’s play area, free wi-fi Luggage: there’s no limit on luggage and no extra cost to bring bicycles with a vehicle Other info: DFDS does not accept foot passengers on its Dover-Calais route - only those travelling with a vehicle. A ‘ Flexi ticket’ allows you to travel up to 72 hours either side of your original booking, subject to availability. Passengers can bring their pet at a cost of £15 each way. For onwards travel, Calais is on the Intercity rail network with the option to connect to towns including Boulogne, Lille, Amiens and Arras on the TER network. Book a ferry from Dover to Calais >> Dover to Dunkirk with DFDS Journey time: 2 hours Timings: up to 24 daily sailings in both directions, depending on the time of year Facilities on board: restaurant, cafe, bar, shop, kid’s play area, free wi-fi Luggage: there’s no limit on luggage and no extra cost to bring bicycles with a vehicle Other info: DFDS does not accept foot passengers on its Dover-Dunkirk route - only those travelling with a vehicle. A ‘ Flexi ticket’ allows you to travel up to 72 hours either side of your original booking, subject to availability. Passengers can bring their pet at a cost of £15 each way. Dunkirk is well served by public transport - buses around the town are free and the train station is on the Intercity network with trains to Paris taking 2.5 hours Book a ferry from Dover to Dunkirk >> From Wales to Europe by coach Travelling by coach is usually the cheapest way to travel to Europe from Wales and is relatively straight forward thanks to the M4 motorway, which runs east-west from south Wales to London. For journeys starting in North Wales, coaches tend to travel via Crewe, Birmingham or Manchester. For more information on these, take a look at our guide for flight-free travel from the North of England to Europe . Here are a few sample journey times including a change in London: Coach from Cardiff to Paris: from 15.5 hours; Cardiff to Amsterdam: from 17 hours Coach from Swansea to Paris: from 17.5 hours; Swansea to Amsterdam: from 19 hours Coach from Newport to Paris: from 15 hours; Newport to Amsterdam: from 16.5 hours Most coach routes serving mid and west Wales start in Aberystwyth or connect through here via local services. From Aberystwyth coaches either run directly east through Shrewsbury to London and Birmingham, or head south via Swansea, Cardiff and Newport to London. National Express services terminate in London Victoria from where you can change to its international coach services which go to many European cities, including Calais, Paris, Lille, Amsterdam, Rotterdam, The Hague, Utrecht, Brussels, Antwerp and Bruges. Luggage: You can take a hand luggage bag and medium-sized bag for the hold weighing no more than 20kg. Only folding bicycles are accepted. Facilities: coaches are air conditioned and have wi-fi and USB charging points as well as toilets and while no refreshments are sold onboard, you can pack your own food and drink for the journey and stops are made at service stations to stock up on supplies. Another European coach operator is Flixbus, which now incorporates the Eurolines and Isilines bus companies, with services out of London Victoria. It offers more destinations than National Express and beyond - such as Vienna from London in 26 hours, Frankfurt in 13.5 hours and Prague in 24 hours. You can even travel as far as Bucharest - a 44-hour journey across six countries. The same luggage restrictions apply with one piece of hand luggage and one hold luggage up to 20kg, and bikes can be taken on the bike rack from E9 per journey. Buses have free wifi, charging sockets, toilets, and on some journeys food and drink is sold onboard in addition to the refreshment stops.  The cost varies depending on the route, time of year and so on, so check the coach operator’s website for fares. Coach tickets provided by Flixbus: From Wales to Europe by train To travel from Wales to Europe by rail, you need to go via London to connect to Eurostar’s international rail network out of London St Pancras International Railway Station. Here are a few train journey times (times show the total duration of the trip, including allowing for sufficient time to transfer from Paddington to the Eurostar check-in and for the 45-minute check-in time at Eurostar, based on appropriate times of connecting trains in to and out of London): Train from Cardiff to Paris: 6 hours; Cardiff to Amsterdam: 7.5 hours Train from Swansea to Paris: 5.5 hours; Swansea to Amsterdam: 9 hours Train from Newport to Paris: 6 hours; Newport to Amsterdam: 7 hours In north-west Wales, services start in Holyhead and onwards to Chester and Crewe to connect with rail routes in the North of England and onto London. For mid Wales, branch lines connect to Shrewsbury then onto Birmingham and finally London. On both of these routes your train would terminate in London Euston, from which it is a 15-minute walk to St Pancras. Rail services in south Wales run from Fishguard on the south-west tip of Wales through Swansea, Cardiff and Newport via Reading into London Paddington. From here it’s a 20 minute journey on the London Underground to St Pancras. Eurostar runs direct services to Paris, Brussels, Amsterdam, Rotterdam, Lyon, Lille and Disneyland Paris (and in the winter there’s a ‘ski train’ service via Lille to Moûtiers, Aime-la-Plagne and Bourg-St-Maurice). You can buy through-tickets that start outside of London and go beyond Eurostar’s destinations travelling with local operators. If you are travelling with a bike, check which routes accept bikes. The fee is around £30. Dogs are not permitted on Eurostar except guide dogs. Train tickets provided by Trainline: ============ Please note : The information on this page aims to give you a reasonable idea of train and ferry routes, times and tickets, in order that hopefully there’s enough detail to know what's available, how to plan an overland journey and where to book tickets. The information was up to date at time of publication, but services do change from time to time and we cannot take responsibility for any errors or inaccuracies we provide. Always confirm details when you book with the relevant travel operator. If you are aware of any inaccuracies, we'd really appreciate being informed via our contact page so we can make the relevant changes to the information provided for the benefit of other travellers. Bon Voyage!

A new rail service between Malaga and Barcelona launches this Sunday, 15th December, connecting two of Spain's most popular cities in 5 hours, 50 minutes. Tickets are on offer from €22.20 one way. Sunset over Malaga port. Photo: Wixmedia The new train route is run by low-cost private operator Iryo (a consortium between train company Trenitalia and Spanish airline Air Nostrum), providing one daily departure each way between the cities, seven days a week. The train is scheduled to leave Barcelona at 11.50am and arrive in Malaga at 5.42pm. En route, the train will stop at Cordoba, Madrid and Zaragoza. Tickets are currently on offer from €22.20, €44 and €64 one way on its weekday services, depending on the class of ticket. The standard ticket (which rises to being from €26.20 at weekends) is known as 'Inicial', while the other two are 'Singular Only You' (billed as being for 'entrepreneurs and companies for space to travel') where you can select individual or teamwork tables, and 'Infinita Bistró' - that includes a bistro dining service. Tickets are already on sale for the 15th December onwards, as well as for journeys in 2025 from the Iryo website: iryo.eu The service is part of a number of rail connections that link the north and south of Spain. Spain operator Renfe already runs a high-speed AVE service between Barcelona and Malaga that has a journey time of just under 6 hours, in addition to multiple daily options for travelling via connections in Madrid. Watch our video guide to Spain: For trips on where to find characterful accommodation, delicious local, seasonal food, places of interest and a range of low impact outdoor adventure, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Spain .

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Spain , we've picked out a selection of places to stay across the country. Contributing writers: Paul Bloomfield, Ginny Light, Richard Hammond Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Spain : Green = Places to stay Blue = Food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Hospederia Valle Del Jerte, Extremadura A converted former olive oil mill in the village of Jerte with 28 bedrooms, the best of which overlook the cobbled town square or terraces of cherry tree groves in the hillsides behind. Indulge the regional produce with the hotel’s four-course cherry menu with such imaginative uses of the fruit as creamy cherry rice with millefeuille of sea bass with Iberian ham or Jerte cherry semifreddo. The restaurant has glass windows floor to ceiling overlooking its gardens and infinity pool. hospederiasdeextremadura.es Hotel Rural Abadia de Yuste, Extremadura A 15-bedroom hotel in a 16th Century restored abbey in Yuste, a pretty town and best known for the Monastery of Yuste, where Charles V, Roman Emperor, retired and died. It starts from around £60 a night and has a sunny terrace, outdoor pool, courtyard and restaurant. There’s original features throughout and restored furniture from the abbey though it is best known for its food. All bread and pastries are made on site and the chef, Rubén Homero, celebrates sustainable cooking ‘the only part of the pig we don't eat is the grunt’ he told us and many of the dishes make use of leftovers - the region's most popular is migas extremeñas, which makes yesterday's bread into breadcrumbs to fry up with pieces of leftover ham and pimentón spice, which is like paprika and widely produced in the region. abadiadeyuste.com El Jardin de Las Delizias, Extremadura A Glorious glampsite on an ecologically cherry farm in the heart of the spectacular Jerte Valley. Each of the three Mongolian yurts (Sky, Fire and Earth) have a private garden – it's a place to disconnect from modern day life and reconnect with nature. Owners Leti and Jose have installed a charging point for electric cars, and there's a pool with wonderful views over the hills and valley. eljardindelasdelizias.com Parador de Jarandilla de la Vera, Extremadura Housed in the splendid castle-palace of the 16th Century Counts of Oropesa, close to the Tiétar and Jerte rivers, this luxury Parador has preserved the original moat and towered walls as well as a two-storey Gothic gallery in the inner courtyard. No wonder Charles V chose this as his refuge after his abdication before settling permanently in the nearby Yuste monastery. The restaurant specialises in the region's food – expect acorn-fed Iberian ham from the Dehesa de Extremadura, as well as cheeses, vegetables and paprika from La Vera. Nearby are Casa de Don Luis de Quijada, the medieval Parral bridge, and the church of Santa María de la Torre, an old Templar fortress from the 12th century.   www.parador.es Hotel Dona Major, Frómista, Palencia, Castilla y León In the historic centre of Frómista (Palencia) – in the heart of the French Camino de Santiago – the 12-room hotel is named after Queen Doña Mayor (Muniadona of Castile), founder of the Monastery of San Martin and its Romanesque church, circa 1066. There's a strong commitment to green energy throughout: the electricity for the pool, restaurant and smart, unfussy rooms comes via 26 solar panels on the roof and renewable green energy sources, there's solar thermal for the hotel's hot water, modern aerothermal equipment for air-conditioning, and wood pellet fire places. Cyclists can store bikes in a small bike storage house. hoteldonamayor.com No Mad Green Hotel, Castilla y León A 22-room eco boutique hotel in the town of Molinaseca on the Camino de Santiago (Bierzo region) 5 kilometres from Ponferrada. The emphasis is on 'noble' materials, such as wood, glass and iron, along with rattan and wicker, with lots of natural light flooding the rooms. There's a zero-waste policy for the restaurant area (expect filtered water in glass bottles) as well as plastic-free rooms. If you can stir from the relaxing environment, there's a range of local activities, such as wine-tasting and electric biking. no-mad-hotel.es La Alquería de Valverde country house, Castilla-La Mancha A characterful, rustic country house (with several double rooms and a separate self-catering apartment) in the village of Zarzuela de Galve in Valverde – an area of the Sierra Norte Natural Park renowned for its black architecture, near the mountains that separate this Guadalajara region from Segovia at the foot of Pico Ocejón. There's a commitment to sustainability throughout, will all cleaning products made with organic products, a comprehensive recycling system, and a breakfast packed with homemade pastries, jam, crushed tomato and oil. Pets can stay in the Rural Apartment El Cotorrito. laalqueriadevalverde.es Al Viento del Ocejón country house, Castilla-La Mancha A charming rural house – built in black slate, that's close to Pico Ocejón and the Sierra Norte Natural Park , just 120 kilometres from Madrid. There are two floors with 6 simple double rooms (all with bathrooms), an independent kitchen (and outdoor charcoal barbecue), dining room with panoramic views, and a cosy living room with a fireplace for the winter. There's a range of outdoor activities nearby, including a well-signposted network of hiking trails and mountain bike routes through forests and across streams, as well as places to go canoeing. In winter there's cross-country skiing and snowshoeing. alvientodelocejon.com Cantalojas campsite, Castilla-La Mancha A wonderful campsite at the gateway to the Sierra Norte National Park that's the only place allowed for camping in this area. There are pitches for tents and motorhomes with electricity plug-in plus four modern bungalows that sleep up to six, two of which welcome pets. It has a super restaurant on site, offering seasonal, fresh cooked food and a frequently changing menu under the friendly and efficient management of Maria. It serves breakfast, lunch and dinner and offers takeaway with dishes including salads, grilled meat and regional specialities. campinglosbonales.es Casas Benali, Comunidad de Valencia Owners Daniel and Martine have fused modern Scandinavian style with ancient Arabesque to create a remarkable rural retreat among 68 hectares of land just one hour southwest of Valencia. Three smart rustic houses (packed with wooden furniture, wool and leather) can be hired individually or by a group (of up to 28 people) with private pool, garden, retreat studio, and covered terrace and large multi-functional workspace for workshops. There is a range of organised activities, including wine tasting and cookery, while the adventurous can go talking up to castle Xátiva (a twin fortress high above Xátiva), hiking to waterfalls and canyoning. casasbenali.com Watch our video about Spain: Ecohotel Nos, Galicia A bucolic farmhouse B&B on the shore of a lake 45 minutes' drive from Lugo. Owners Sietske and Tariq have lovingly restored the main house and five ensuite bedrooms in the building across the courtyard. Period features such as wooden beams and thick stone walls remain while each rooms is unique with striking artwork and furniture made by local craftsmen. Guests are invited to wander the organic gardens, laze in hammocks or star gaze thanks to the light pollution-free skies. A vegetarian breakfast of homemade and locally sourced produce includes Galician cheese, yoghurt and honey, while a an evening meals of tapas, or ‘pintxos’ can be prepared if ordered in advance. casacabaza.com EcoFarm Asturias This ‘glampsite’ may be off the grid but it is only 40 minutes drive from Oviedo and there’s no skimping on the luxury. There are three choices - the caravan that sleeps four overlooking wild woodland with a mini kitchen and composting loo and the yurt that sleeps five and has a simple field kitchen with a deck and hammock. Then, the cabana that sleeps up to six. It is a traditional rural building where animals would have slept below and the shepherd above. Water comes from a private spring and solar powered phone chargers and showers are available. Guests can self cater and order ahead for a veg box, eggs, potatoes, a fresh bunch of herbs, plus there’s barbecue facilities using home produced charcoal from the farm’s sweet chestnut coppice. Evening meals can be provided for €15 for adults, half price for kids, offering dishes such as chicken with olives, lemon, honey, ginger and coriander.   ecofarmasturias.org Casa Zalama, Cantabria When Casa Zalama’s six bedrooms are full, its occupants increase the population of the village, San Pelayo, by 50%. This is countryside life in the slow and peaceful lane, yet Santander and Bilbao are just an hour’s drive away. The house is rustic and traditional and surrounded by a pretty garden with plenty of spots to unwind. There is also a self catering cottage that sleeps four with its own kitchen and garden area. Breakfast and dinner is home cooked and much of it homegrown including traditional rustic Spanish dishes, perfect for the surroundings - antique reclaimed furniture, baskets, woodwork hanging on thick stone walls. casazalama.es Eco Hotel Mundaka, Basque Country Mundaka is a world famous surf destination thanks to its left-breaking wave, considered the finest in Europe in its category, and reaching up to four metres high. Mundaka also boasts a pretty harbour and is in the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve, which includes beaches, forests, rivers and islands. The Eco Hotel is in the centre of town and 300 metres from the beach. It has simple but bright ensuite 19 single, double or triple rooms and stands strongly by ecological principles including solar power, smart water use and minimal use of chemicals. It has a dining room offering a locally sourced breakfast, a surf school and gelateria in season. hotelmundaka.com La Rectoria de Sant Miquel de Pineda, Costa Brava, Catalonia There’s a touch of Scotland in this beautifully restored 12th-century former rectory in volcanic La Garrotxa Natural Park. The house itself is decidedly Catalan, albeit imbued with a contemporary flair, its wood beams, whitewashed walls and tiles augmented with clever design touches such as ancient doors repurposed as bed headboards. But tartan blankets, a range of single malt whiskies and events including a Burns Night supper reflect the Caledonian heritage of one half of the pair who own and run this wonderful guesthouse – Scot Roy Lawson and his Catalan wife Goretti. Seven homely bedrooms (doubles and twins that can be combined for families) have views across oak-wooded valleys and hills. Fine dinners are available, along with secure bike storage – the house sits alongside the Ruta del Carrilet greenway cycle trail between Olot and Girona. larectoriadesantmiquel.com Mas Ardèvol, Falset, Costa Daurada, Catalonia An idyllic rural house amid ten hectares of land in the green hills above Porrera. It specialises in traditional Priorat food, including fresh produce from their own vegetable garden, oil, and wine. There are two rooms inside the main house while outside there are three spacious thick-walled rooms and a natural swimming pool - perfect for a plunge on a hot day. Indulge in a variety of treatments, including a massage and body moisturising using natural ingredients, such as organic olives and hazelnuts. If you can tear yourself aware from the tranquility, nearby are the sundial route in Porrera and the Montsant mountain range. masardevol.net Mas Garganta, La Garrotxa, Catalonia A beautifully renovated 14th Century farmhouse on a hill overlooking the D'en Bas valley close to the Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park in the Catalan Pyrenees. Run by the affable Inis, it's about as homely as you could imagine, and in a ridiculously picturesque setting. There are 12 simple, comfortable bedrooms at the ‘casa rural’, a wonderful farmhouse kitchen with huge fireplace, a lovely pool, and mountain views from every angle. We visited in the winter, and despite the evening chill and the roaring fire indoors, we couldn’t tear ourselves away from the valley views and instead sat out on the terrace feasting late into the night. masgarganta.com Casa Las Chimeneas, Las Alpujarras Your hosts' enthusiasm and local knowledge really stands out - from walks and attractions to cookery courses, writing, painting and yoga retreats, and wildlife walks, they'll ensure you get the most out of your trip, leaving you free to soak up the relaxing atmosphere. The kitchen in this charming little restaurant attached to the guesthouse of the same name is the domain of Soledad and Conchita, who rustle up a choice of dishes for dinner each evening. Vegetarians aren’t short-changed, with at least one tempting option for each of the three dinner courses – perhaps ajo blanco  (chilled almond and garlic soup) followed by stuffed aubergines with goats cheese and rounded off with a sinful fig cake produced by baking supremo Andrew. There’s a well-chosen selection of Alpujarran wines to wash it all down, and a terrace with sweeping views south towards the Med. laschimeneas.com   Viña y Rosales, Las Alpujarras Tucked in the hillsides of Las Alpujarras, this mansion house is a haven of relaxation. There are four large guest rooms and a garden with several terraces packed with herbs, fruits, vegetables and flowers (it's called after the beautiful roses and vines). Nothing is too much trouble for the lovely hosts; it's the perfect place to rest and enjoy some wonderful food after a day outdoors in the spectacular surroundings – it's on the scenic GR7 mountain route of the stunning Alpujarras. alpujarras.alojamiento.raya.org   Hotel Rural Almirez, Las Alpujarras This small family-run hotel prides itself on being 'your' hotel, and you'll certainly feel at home here. Surrounded by almond groves and the owners' organic vineyard, tuck into traditional Alpujarran dishes lovingly prepared by 'grandma Teresa', and sip wines from the vineyard as you take in the stunning view. Choose from 15 trails that run the Sierra Nevada National Park, which is also a Biosphere Reserve (see Outdoor Adventure Activities in Spain ). hotelalmirez.es   Can Marti, Ibiza, Balearic Islands A beautiful, authentic and organic farmhouse in a quiet and idyllic spot in the unspoilt north of the island. This tiny oasis is a ten-minute walk from the nearest village, Sant Joan and located in the very heart of the Área Natural de Es Amunts, yet close to the fabulous beaches notched into the rugged coast line in tiny bays covered with white sands. In such a tranquil place you can’t quite believe you are in Ibiza if your impression of Ibiza is a really busy, noisy place – come here and see a completely alternative side to the island. Switch everything off and just be in the moment – pick some figs, commune with the ducks, geese and donkeys and relax by the pool, watching the dragonflies swoop across the glassy surface to the song sung by the native frogs. canmarti.com Casbah Formentera, Formentera, Balearic Islands The name may conjure the hustle and bustle of North Africa’s souks but all is calm and serene at this leafy hotel, less than 10 minutes’ walk from Migjorn beach. Set within a pine grove, Casbah Formentera’s beautifully landscaped gardens are home to a swimming pool, and a gazebo set up for outdoor massages, while sweeps of bougainvillea and hibiscus line the paths between its bedrooms. The restaurant is a destination in its own right; diners come to linger over octopus croquettes or expertly cooked steaks in its magical indoor-out setting. hotelcasbahformentera.com Ecocirer, Majorca, Balearic Islands Six rooms in an historic turn of the century family-run townhouse in the village of Sóller near the northwest coast of the island. Bike-friendly – Sóller is surrounded by world-famous cycling routes – there's storage for bikes and maintenance facilities, and the owners offer cycling packages with personalised routes. It's also a mecca for foodies: every Saturday morning, you can join a cookery lesson using the ingredients from the garden to then enjoy over a Mediterranean style lunch. The food is plant-based, seasonal – organic, vegan and vegetarian recipes change daily. using home-grown fruit and vegetables. Recycling is also top of the billing here – the owners says that "every element in our home is 100% recycled". Each piece "the result of a long process of research, restoration and creativity". https://ecocirer.com/ Lanzarote Retreats, Lanzarote, Canary Islands A popular family-run eco retreat in the northeast of the island, offering a range of accommodation, either within its own eco village in Arrieta or at holiday villas, cottages and apartments elsewhere on the island. The eco village, designed to be an "off-grid eco-retreat" has stone cottages, large yurts, and villas catering for families, couples and groups. According to the owners, its solar energy powers its desalination plant which meets most of its energy needs, while the remainder is provided by wind energy and gas. There's a host of activities on offer from yoga and pilates to windsurfing, wine tasting and guided tours and hiking. https://lanzaroteretreats.com Finca Casa de la Virgen, Gran Canaria, Canary Islands Two country houses (the two-storey 19th Century main house sleeps 6, the single-storey cottage sleeps 4) within the floodplain of a 17,000 square metre country estate inland in the north of the island that's home to the Canary Island bellflower, a symbol of the island's endemic flora. Relax in the informal grounds – rich in biodiversity – then explore the area's mountains, gorges and laurel forests, great for day hikes and birdwatching in the Doramus Rural Park. fincacasadelavirgen.com == For nearby places to eat, visitor attractions and activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Spain

The Green Traveller Digest Welcome to my latest round up of news, features and comments on green travel. This newsletter is written by me, Richard Hammond, the founder of Green Traveller. If you'd like to receive the newsletter by email, please subscribe here . Editorial: This month, I've been hearing how both Spain and France (the two most visited countries for UK tourists) have been developing more options for sustainable transport. Spain has been embracing the ‘open access’ liberalisation of the European rail network. There's no doubt that increased competition among rail operators (especially on high profile routes throughout Europe) has led to improved services and reduced ticket costs. Nowhere is this more apparent than on the high-speed line between Barcelona and Madrid, which is now served by four operators, including AVE (operated by Spanish Railways, Renfe), and Iryo (a joint venture of Trenitalia & Air Nostrum using Italian-designed Frecciarossa trains), and two low-cost operators OUIGO (a subsidy of French Railways, SNCF), and Avlo (a subsidiary of Spanish Railways, Renfe). Single tickets for the 2.5 hour, 386 mile journey can be snapped up for as little as €7. I've written more about this in my article: All aboard the train in Spain . At World Travel Market, I met with Marina Ferrari, the recently-appointed French Minister for Tourism Economy, who told me about the work of ADEME (the French Agency for Ecological Transition), and how there are plans to develop cycling throughout the country, including e-bikes as well as hydrogen powered bikes, at national, regional and local levels. Mrs Ferrari also explained at WTM how France has plans to increase rail and coach services: “We’re working with SNCF to ensure more tourists use trains – but we’re also working to introduce more coaches. If you put 50 people on a coach, then you’re saving 15 cars on the road”, she told TTG's Daniel Pearce: Olympic legacy continues for France with focus on rail . (Congrats to TTG who were awarded this week as the Independent Publishing Company of the Year at the PPA Independent Publisher Awards) Earlier this year, I returned to Calabash Caye in Belize where I worked as a volunteer on a marine conservation project for Coral Cay Conservation in the 1990s. It was heartening to hear from Eldon August, a tourism conservation officer for the Turneffe Atoll Sustainability Association, about how conservation has evolved since my time there and that the reef system is now being protected to promote the 'blue economy'. I travelled with the travel journalist Meera Dattani who has written two wonderful features on community based travel - one on nature conservation and another on local food, see: Green Traveller's Guide to Belize Green Travel News News from COP29 Carbon Brief has produced a handy guide to the key outcomes agreed at the UN climate talks in Baku Train to Cop: From Blighty to Baku Kudos to Carbon Jacked who travelled overland from the UK to COP29 in Azerbaijan. 10 countries, 3400 miles, 100 hours. Train to the slopes Travelski’s Express train service to the Alps has announced it will again be running this winter from London on Saturday mornings (from 21st December) and returning the following Sunday with daytime train travel in both directions and 8 nights of accommodation (to facilitate a full 7 days of skiing) as standard. The line-up of resorts has expanded to include Chamonix and La Clusaz, as well as Tignes, Val d’Isère, Val Thorens, Méribel, Brides les Bains, Courchevel, Les Ménuires, Les Arcs, La Plagne and La Rosiére. Eurostar has also announced that it will also again be running its indirect service – Eurostar Snow – where customers change at Lille for onward connection to the French Alps on a Eurostar continental train calling at Chambéry, Albertville, Moutiers, Aime-La Plagne, Landry and Bourg-Saint-Maurice. For more info on taking the train to the slopes, see: How to take the train to Europe's Ski Resorts by Snowcarbon's Daniel Elkan. European Sleeper extends to Prague Overnight train service European Sleeper has extended its route from Brussels to Berlin to continue to Prague, via Dresden and Bad Schandau. The night train, which includes a bike carriage, also stops in in Děčín and Ústí nad Labem in the Czech Republic, for the Elbe Cycle Path and the Czech Switzerland Crest Trail. "We are truly thrilled to be launching the new route to Prague less than a year after launching our first direct service from Brussels to Berlin", said Elmer van Buuren, Co-Founder, of European Sleeper. "Our goal is to add a new route each year so we can continue to contribute to a more integrated and sustainable European transportation network". Madeira gains green seal The Portuguese archipelago of Madeira has been given a green seal of approval for its commitment to sustainable tourism. Independent auditor EarthCheck visited and evaluated the island group to assess its alignment with 12 key areas, including the preservation of its cultural and natural heritage, as well as the balanced enhancement of its environmental, social, cultural and economic dimensions. FlixBus Launches First London – Cambridge Electric Coach Service Coach operator FlixBus has launched a 100% electric long-distance coach service between Cambridge and London. The electric vehicle, launched in partnership with Whippet and Zenobē, will run between Cambridge city centre, Trumpington Park and Ride, London Finchley Road and Victoria Coach Station. Andreas Schorling, Managing Director of FlixBus UK said: "Following our launch of England and Wales first electric coach service, we're thrilled to be trialling another zero-emission service as we build the largest coach network in the country." According to the company, the vehicle, provided by Pelican Yutong, will save 167kg of carbon emissions per day driven - two round trips - on the route compared to the average diesel-fuelled coach. First Bus signs five-year partnership with Flixbus , boosting daily services across the South-West of England and expanding routes in northern cities including Leeds, Manchester, and Newcastle. Keswick becomes virtual railway station Keswick has become a “virtual railway station” with visitors now able to buy a combined ticket covering rail and bus travel to Keswick in the Lake District. Even though it doesn’t have a railway station, Avanti West Coast has added Keswick as a destination on rail journey planners so just one ticket covering travel across both modes of transport can be purchased to travel there. The creation of a virtual railway station means people can view the timings of the train and bus departures, as well as book a single fully integrated ticket for their entire journey. Available for travel on the West Coast Main Line, the ticket can be used on Avanti West Coast’s services to Penrith (gateway to the North Lakes) and Stagecoach’s X4 and X5 bus service to Keswick – preventing the need for multiple tickets and transactions. Customers select ‘Keswick Bus’ as their destination when booking via Avanti West Coast’s website and app or at ticket offices, to receive one ticket for their complete journey. Inntravel low carbon trips Specialist operator, Inntravel , which is celebrating its 40th anniversary this year, is highlighting a series of low carbon self-guided trips either on foot or two wheels. Last year it partnered with carbon consultancy ecollective to give each and every one of its 300 holidays a carbon score. Examples include a food-filled break in Aracena where guests are given a glimpse of Spanish rural life, a cycling holiday in Bordeaux and St Emilion, and a walking holiday in Germany’s Bavarian Alps, which has a carbon score of just 7kg per person per day. Ecotourism and Regeneration in Catalonia The Catalan Tourist Board has produced a map of 30 ecotourism areas [pdf] where visitors can stay in eco-friendly accommodation and take part in outdoor adventure seeing wildlife in its natural habitat while contributing to biodiversity conservation. It also provides information for four kinds of ecotourists: passionate, curious, intrepid and family. Accommodation includes Hotel Molí de la Torre – a converted textile mill in Costa Barcelona, and Cerdanya Ecoresort in the Catalan Pyrenees. Long haul flights: the elephant in the room Celeste Hicks of the Aviation Environment Federation has written a comment piece about efforts to reduce the carbon emissions of short haul and long haul flights, in the light of Chancellor Rachel Reeves announcement of a 50% increase in Air Passenger Duty (APD) on certain private jets. In her article, she references a report by Dobruszkes, Mattioli and Gozzoli, which showed that "flights of less than 500km account for 26.7% of flights, but only 5.2% of fuel burnt; while flights of 4000km or more account for just 5.1% of flights, but 39% of fuel burnt". Celeste concludes "It seems that there is no other option but to push for all the solutions at once – including behaviour change, modal shift for short-haul AND a huge increase in investment for technological advances". ===== News from Green Traveller Green Traveller's Guide to Spain We've published a Green Traveller's Guide to Spain , which aims to showcase the best of the country’s year-round low impact experiences, encouraging visitors to use the country's extensive rail network and travel in a slower more meaningful way, stay longer and make the most of locally run activities. Video of Green Traveller's Guide to Spain The guide includes feature articles illustrated by our own professionally taken photos and video, which we've produced with the support of the Spanish Tourist Office in London. Manuel Butler, Director of the Spanish Tourist Office in London, says: "This video showcases a variety of Spain’s sustainable highlights, including the impressive natural landscapes and how best to enjoy outdoor adventures. It also shows some of the incredible cuisine that Spain has to offer, spotlighting the experiences available through local producers and artisans. Promoting lesser-known gems, it offers a look into how travellers can delve into the history and culture of the destinations visited. Through this collaboration with Green Traveller, the Spanish Tourist Office hopes to encourage geographical diversification, off-season travel and true cultural immersion, providing inspiration for a responsible visit to Spain." Green Traveller's Guide to Belize We've produced a Green Traveller's Guide to Belize . I travelled there to film travel journalist Meera Dattani who has written two wonderful features on community based travel - one on nature conservation and another on local food. During the trip we met with Eldon August, a tourism conservation officer for the Turneffe Atoll Sustainability Association. Describing our time with Eidon, Meera writes: "As we walk and talk, he tells me about the importance of the mangrove ecosystem for flood protection and providing a haven for juvenile species, to the seaweed farms offering alternative livelihoods to fishermen with its beauty and health benefits (‘mariculture’). "Our walk leads us across the hammock bridge and to the trail’s bird tower. I don’t think I’d ever taken in such a sight. As I turn my head, I’m treated to a 360-degree view of miles of mangroves, broken up only by the blue hues of the Caribbean Sea. Seeing something with your own eyes reinforces what you’ve just learnt, and you realise just how important it is to protect it." Green Traveller's Guide to Nouvelle-Aquitaine We've produced a Green Traveller's Guide to Nouvelle-Aquitaine showcasing a range of accommodation, places to find seasonal, organic food, sights of interest and low impact activities. The guide has followed a week I spent in Nouvelle-Aquitaine with sustainable comms guru Nicola Forsyth. We travelled by train from London to Bordeaux (Eurostar, then just two hours from Paris) to spend three days seeing the sights in the city before heading out by train and electric bike to explore The Dordogne Valley, including sampling a stage of La Flow Vélo – a new 350km cycle trail that runs from the Dordogne to the Atlantic coast, passing through the Perigord Limousin Regional National Park and Angouleme, along the Charente River and the towns of Cognac, Saintes and Rochefort. The Hautes Alps - the other side of the mountain I've written about a trip I made with my family by train to the Haute Alps – a lesser-known region of the French Alps – to try out a series of outdoor mountain activities with Undiscovered Mountains who run multi-activity holidays throughout the area. Read the article (watch the video below): The other side of the mountain The Green Traveller magazine The latest issue of our magazine The Green Traveller features: Get the Picture - responsible photography in The Farne Islands, by Diana Jarvis Overland travel to Greece, by Rhiannon Batten Postcard from Korvemaa, by Rebecca Miles Menu from Catalonia, by Paul Bloomfield Wild Swimming in Extremadura, Spain, by Ginny Light Brave New World of Nouvelle-Aquitaine, by Richard Hammond and Nicola Forsyth Mountain Highs in the Hautes Alps, by Richard Hammond Community-based conservation in Belize, by Meera Dattani ...and much more!

A beautifully restored vintage caravan in two acres of woodland close to the Glastonbury festival site, Frome, Wells and Bruton. Photos: Kym Grimshaw Photography In a nutshell: An upcycled off-grid caravan in woods in a beautiful part of Somerset, 7 minutes drive to Vobster Quay open-water swimming and diving, 15 mins drive to Glastonbury Festival site, and within easy reach of Frome, Bruton and Wells. Rooms:  1 (sleeps 2, plus babes in arms), plus sofabed for one child; in addition, there is a separate cabin across the meadow for two older children (or further adults) Price:  From £95/night, minimum stay 2 nights, includes all linen, kitchen essentials (teas, coffee, oil, vinegar, salt, pepper) and a welcome hamper (eggs, butter, milk, homemade bread and biscuits plus local cider or apple juice). Meals:  Self-catering. Pub serves decent food in village 10-minute walk; the excellent Talbot Inn and well-stocked village shop are both in nearby village of Mells, 5-minute drive. Open:  Easter to October Facilities:  Kitchen, Washroom, including hot shower Good for Green:  Off-grid; Hot water for shower provided by biomass. Walkers welcome; Cyclists welcome ==== Our Review of The Scrumpling The Setting The word Scrumpling is an old Somerset name for ' “misshapen apple”, which reflects the setting of this vintage caravan: in two acres of private woodland and meadow adjacent to the owner's family home in the heart of cider country. There's private off-road parking, from where you walk 50 yds along a curving woodchip path to the hideaway in the woods. The Rooms The cosy caravan has a king-size bed, open shelving and a green velvet sofabed. Large windows let the dappled woodland light flood in. There are lots of books, games and art materials and a telescope if want to investigate the magical night skies in this part of the world. The Food There's a cute kitchen shed just a few metres from the caravan, which is equipped with a two-ring gas hob, coolbox, large drinking water container and all the usual crockery, cutlery and pans for cooking. >> Travel Writer Sarah Baxter stayed at the Scrumpling while researching for her article about the Somerset Food Trail, read here article in the i paper: Somerset Food Trail The Activities On site, guests have the run of the two-acre site to themselves, there are hammocks in a little glade in the woods, and an outdoor table and chairs for breakfasts and dinners, a campfire, and deckchairs overlooking a large pond. It's a 10-minute walk across some fields to the village where there's a pub selling decent food, and it's just 5 minutes by car to the famous village of Mells where there's a village shop and the excellent Talbot Inn . The site is 15 minutes to the Glastonbury Festival Site at Pilton, and just over 10 minutes to Frome where there's a famous independent market on the first Sunday of every month. It's also very convienient for anyone wishing to go open water swimming or scube diving at Vobster Quay Open Water Activity Centre . Eco-friendly initiatives The Scrumpling is off-grid (the owner can charge devices if you’re stuck but there is generally no WiFi, heating, electric lighting or electricity across the site) - the emphasis is very much on getting back to nature. Top tip If you're looking to go walking, the site is just off the East Mendip Way and close to the Mendip Hills – Cheddar Gorge is popular but Ebbor Gorge is slightly quieter, and handy for a pint of cider at the Queen Victoria Inn, in Priddy , on the way home. Verdict Perfect for a Somerset escape, whether you're out walking the Mendip Hills or wanting a rural escape that's close to the historic towns such as Frome, Glastonbury and Wells. >> See also the view of the Scrumpling by Emma Bradshaw . >> The Scrumpling was named in the Guardian's 10 of Britain’s best vintage caravan stays . How to book Contact owner Rhiannon via her website www.thescrumpling.co.uk/book-now Or call Rhiannon on: 07976 729113 Mention ' Green Traveller ' to Rhiannon when you book and receive receive a freshly baked treat during your stay! == Disclosure: The Scrumpling is run by Rhiannon, wife of Green Traveller's founder, Richard Hammond.

A traditional Mediterranean holiday without flying? It is possible, says Rhiannon Batten. This is how (and why) she did it, taking the train and ferry all the way from London to Corfu The sun was setting over Panagia Vlacherna monastery as we strolled from Pontikonisi beach to Kanoni peninsula, on the outskirts of Corfu Town. This spot is a gathering place for local plane-spotters, who flock to watch a jet stream of package holiday flights take off and land, but our eyes were drawn instead to the reedy wetlands around its base, and some circling herons. Like the birds, people from the town in small rowing boats were heading out to fish, the water dripping from their oars gilded rose gold by the evening light. Walking down to dinner is rarely this magical but then we’re rarely staying at Villa Icarus. This slick four-bedroom bolthole in Perama, on the eastern coast of Corfu, comes with an espresso machine, a high-tech barbecue and a serene private pool that overlooks nothing but olive groves and herb-speckled hillsides. Proving that sustainable holidays don’t have to mean camping, it was also (crucially) reachable by train and ferry. Because while the siren call of sun-warmed sand and poolside snoozing is hard to resist when you live in a place where high summer still involves packing a ‘just in case’ anorak, in 2021 I swore off flying. Six years earlier, signatory governments to the Paris Accord had agreed to limit global heating to 1.5°C above pre-industrial levels to prevent the catastrophic impact of climate change. To achieve that everyone on Earth needs to emit just 2.3 tons of CO2 per year by 2030 ― roughly half the average at the time. While some believe it is up to governments, and industries, to implement change, or hope that technological advances will save us, neither of these things are happening quickly enough. Instead I decided to limit my own carbon emissions. This means that air travel is no longer an option. Though comparisons vary according to the fuel efficiency of different planes and trains, air travel accounts for around 70 percent of a typical holidaymaker’s carbon emissions; travelling by plane between London and Paris, for instance, emits about 10 times more carbon dioxide than travelling by Eurostar (emitting carbon dioxide at higher altitudes is also thought to have more of an effect on climate change). There are myriad alternatives, from sail and rail, or sail and drive, to buying an Interrail pass (though beware that seat reservations can add significant costs to the price of the initial pass). Frustratingly, all cost more than the equivalent air fare; sign up for ticket release alerts on the services you intend to use, particularly for Eurostar where the cheaper seats sell at inter-stellar speed. If you’re really on a shoestring budget, coach travel is a more affordable and lower-carbon way to cross Europe than train, something made easier, and more comfortable, by the meteoric recent rise of the Flixbus network. Yearning for a villa holiday in Greece, we opted to travel in the October half term, meaning cheaper fares than those in midsummer but also a reduced number of possible routes. Travelling from London to Brindisi by train – via Paris, Zurich and Milan – we then took a ferry from Brindisi to Igoumenitsa and another across to Corfu. Leaving London in late afternoon and stopping overnight in Paris and Milan (on the way back an overnight bus worked better), the transport cost £200 and took 60 hours each way (though it’s do-able in just over 48 in high summer, when more services are operating). As a comparison, a return flight from the UK to Corfu takes around 5.5 hours, including check-in time, and costs between £150 and £300 return, including hold baggage and fees. It’s hard to see Pontikonisi’s herons when you’re up at 30,000 feet though. Nor taste the buttery crackle of an oven-warm Parisian croissant, plunge into the yodel-inducing cool of a Swiss lake (as we did between trains in Zurich), hear the polyphonic tooting of rush hour drivers in the centre of Milan, or watch the Pindus mountains appear through the sea-misted dawn from the deck of an overnight ferry. HOW SHE DID IT Eurostar London to Paris £78 return ( eurostar.com ). Trains between Paris and Brindisi via Switzerland £80 one-way ( thetrainline.com ). Ferries from Brindisi to Corfu via Igoumenitsa, including a cabin one-way, £144 return ( directferries.co.uk ). Train from Brindisi to Turin £70 one-way ( thetrainline.com ). Coach from Turin to Paris £28.99 one-way ( flixbus.co.uk ). WHERE SHE STAYED Villa Icarus (sleeps 2-8) costs from £300 per night (minimum stay four nights). Like sister company Sunvil Holidays, GIC Villas now offer package holidays including accommodation and overland travel ( gicthevillacollection.com ). HOW MUCH CARBON SHE SAVED Return train between London and Brindisi via Switzerland 106.6kg. It's difficult to find exact emissions from the ferry via Igoumenitsa to Corfu but directferries.co.uk  gives 7kg each way (based on similar journey - though direct - by ferry between Bari and Corfu), so total for the overland trip is 120.6kg. Return flight London to Corfu 503.2kg (949.2kg if you include the climate factor) - figures from ecopassenger.org .

Richard Hammond and his family take the train to a lesser-known region of the French Alps to try out a series of outdoor mountain adventure activities. Waterfall at Refuge Tourmond. Photo : Richard Hammond A week of outdoor adventure activities in the Hautes Alpes. Photos: Richard Hammond Clinging to a rope over the edge of a steep-sided gorge, it occurred to me that I didn’t really know the person I’d trusted my life to. Bernard – a local French high mountain guide – looked like he knew what he was doing, but in those fleeting moments before I let go of the rope he’d slung up with a series of carabiners, I couldn’t help questioning his credentials. His wife, Sally, told me that morning he’d been a professional high mountain guide for years, and she was now giving me an enthusiastic thumbs-up from the ground, after belaying down herself. Then my son, who was desperate to give it a go, yelled: “Just go for it Dad!” Banishing all negative thoughts, I kicked out my legs and off I went, dropping gently down to the ground 100 feet below as Bernard gradually released the abseil rope. My son soon followed suit without a moment’s hesitation, his face blushing with the exhilaration and confidence of youth. Watch our video of our week in the Hautes Alpes: The belay was the exit point of our morning’s Via Ferrata in the Gorges d'Agnielles in the Southern French Alps. Via Ferrata is a type of climbing where a series of metal rails are bolted into the mountain rock, which you clip into and use as a safety line throughout the route. Sally (who runs Undiscovered Mountains, the activity holiday company we’d booked through) explained that Via Ferrata had been installed by the Italians in the First World War to make it quicker for its troops to travel more efficiently across high mountains, but in France it has since been adopted as a sport, designed so that many of the routes go to scenic places. The scene of Gorges d'Agnielles was certainly that; even though this was a family-friendly beginner’s course, it ran across a tall vertiginous ledge at times 300 feet above the road below, flanked by the impressive limestone cliffs.   Branching out We’d come to the Southern French Alps because we wanted to travel by train from the UK to go on an outdoor adventure that was off the beaten track. The Hautes Alpes is home to the popular ski resort of Serre Chevalier but mostly it’s a little visited part of the Alps for British travellers. After taking the Eurostar, we had a night in Paris then took the morning high speed train to Valence where we caught the train to Gap to stay for the first few nights at La Grange des Écrins, a guesthouse in the valley, before heading higher, to two mountain refuges. Écrins (also the name of the surrounding National Park) means jewel and the guesthouse lives up to its name, with gem-coloured textiles, a pool with a view and grounds that run, bucolically, through meadows to a woodland stream. Run by Frenchman Jean Mellot and his Taiwanese wife, Meg Liu, this ancient farmhouse is catering to growing numbers of visitors wanting to connect with nature. “Agriculture is dying and the golden years of winter tourism are gone,” says Jean, softly. “Climate change and the waning popularity of skiing means the Alpine valleys have to find new opportunities”. Green tourism is an obvious one, he adds. “We have good weather here and we didn’t damage the landscape with huge ski resorts.”   Gastrotourism is another, I think, as Meg plies us with course after delicious course, blending her Taiwanese influences with a menu that starts with delicate spring rolls and continues with pink lamb chops from nearby Ancelle. Meg’s delicious food also provided much needed fuel for a series of outdoor mountain activities we took part in the coming few days, including canyoning in the Marmites du Diable, mountain biking around Ancelle, and white-water rafting on the Durance, each one led by professional guides selected by Undiscovered Mountains. For the final two nights, Bernard took us on a different kind of outdoor adventure, this one less about adrenalin, it was designed to introduce us to the experience of walking in the mountain landscape. We hiked up to two mountain refuges – Refuge du Tourond and Gite de l’Ecole in Dormillouse – said to be the sole permanently inhabited village within a French National Park that’s only accessible on foot. The treks took us up alongside fast flowing rivers, through larch forests, past beautiful wildflowers, and several breath-taking waterfalls as Bernard gave us an introduction to the wildlife and geology of the region, pointing out yellowhammers, narcissi, orchids, wild pansies and cowslip. It’s a beautiful part of the Alps, but the really striking thing is how untramelled this landscape is. Besides the rocky track we followed and the odd stone wall, there was little sign of human impact. We were grateful to have Bernard on hand to point out things we’d missed on our own. Sally explained that it is possible to organise the refuges and activities independently, but if you book the activities through her company Undiscovered Mountains, you get an itinerary tailored to your ability and experience. Faced with the alternative of seeking out a mountain guide somewhat randomly on the internet, I know who I’d choose.   == Richard’s trip was organised by Undiscovered Mountains ( undiscoveredmountains.com ) with travel and accommodation provided by Hautes Alpes tourist board ( hautes-alpes.net ). Richard and family travelled on Eurostar to Paris and then by TGV to Briancon, and returned on the night train from Briancon to Paris, then Eurostar to London. Richard had full editorial control of this review, which has been written in his own words based on his experience of visiting the Hautes Alpes in June 2024. All opinions are the authors’ own. A fully customisable seven-day summer multi activity holiday organised by Undiscovered Mountains costs from €518 per adult and €474 per child, including 10 activity points per person exchangeable for a range of activities, a choice of accommodation (including camping, luxury chalet with private hot tub, farmhouse bed and breakfast, chalet style youth hostel or hotel to suit your budget) and a personalised App with all your trip details, unique itinerary, and practical information. Richard and family travelled by Eurostar from London to Paris, train from Paris to Gap, return journey on the sleeper train from Gap to Paris then Eurostar Paris to London.

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Spain , Richard Hammond provides an overview of the opportunities to see nature, a range of landscapes and heritage in the Balearic Islands of Mallorca, Menorca, Ibiza and Formentera Waking up at a finca in the rural north of Ibiza, the world felt at peace. Above the low-level chirping of cicadas, I could hear a bee buzzing outside my window, birds were calling out to each other, and there was a distant sound of another guest swimming in the resort’s natural pool. The tranquillity was a world away from the nightclubs and crowded beaches so often associated with this party island. Yet I should have expected it; Ibiza, and indeed the other islands of the Balearics, all have areas of great natural beauty, and over the past 30 years have built up international recognition for their efforts to protect these natural assets. Pride of place in the Balearics are the clear turquoise waters of Ibiza and its neighbouring island Formentera, which are thanks to the protected meadows of the large seagrass oceanic Posidonia that lie on the seabed. Some 8km long and over 100,000 years old, the seagrass cleans the water and adds in oxygen to create a thriving environment and is found only in the Mediterranean. This underground forest, designated as the Marine Reserve des Freus, stretching from Ses Salines beach (Ibiza) to Es Freus (Formentera), has been granted World Heritage status by UNESCO. Numerous marine species use these underwater forests as a haven for mating and laying their eggs, so marine life thrives, which means the waters around these islands are rewarding snorkel and dive sites. Sea turtles pass through these waters on their long journey to Mexico, and the nearby lagoons of Ses Salines Nature Park, which protects both the land and the sea, is home to over 200 species of migratory birds, including flamingos and black-necked storks. Among a series of measures designed to protect this one-of-a-kind organism (some of which have been implemented thanks to money raised from the islands tourism tax), an app has been created so that yachts can avoid anchoring on protected zones and fines have been imposed for anyone falling foul of the law on this.   It’s not only the environment that is being afford protection – this year is the 25th anniversary of Ibiza’s recognition as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its cultural and architectural value. The island’s treasures include one of the best-preserved coastal fortresses in the Mediterranean, Dalt Vila’s acropolis; the Phoenician remains of Sa Caleta and its Carthaginian tombs. Dalt Vila specifically is home to the first contemporary art museum in Spain. UNESCO’s recognition extends to the other islands in the Balearics. Last year, Menorca celebrated its 30th anniversary as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, the largest marine biosphere reserve in the Mediterranean. Home to nearly 220 species of birds and 1,000 species of plants, 60 of which are endemic to this northernmost island of the Balearic archipelago, Menorca has remarkable diversity of flora and fauna. Keep an eye out for the ‘Menorca Biosphere Reserve’ logo awarded to those businesses that are committed to sustainable practices by generating positive environmental, cultural and social impact. In particular, visitors to Menorca are being encouraged to explore the island’s unspoiled rural countryside on foot, horseback or by bicycle. The Camí de Cavalls, a historic path circumnavigating the entire coastline, has been improved in recent years with new footpaths and stone hedges to make Menorca’s impressive scenery more accessible to visitors. Twenty maritime routes have also been created to showcase points of heritage interest, including old fishermen’s huts, underwater caves and shipwrecks. In addition, last September, Talayotic Menorca was officially listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO as an important cultural destination. Its funerary naves, circular houses as well as structures such as taulas  and talayots  are considered by UNESCO to be an exceptional example of Cyclopean architecture and of its evolution over fifteen hundred years as well as an important source of knowledge about the life of the Talayotic people, the Bronze Age and Iron Age.   Two other sites in the Balearic Islands have been recognised by UNESCO. Mallorca’s Serra de Tramuntana mountain range is a World Heritage Site, covering an area of over 60,000 hectares, it includes picturesque towns such as Sóller, Fornalutx, Deià, and Valldemossa and has become a mecca for hiking and cycle tourism (see outdoor adventure activities in Spain). Formerly an animal shelter, Ses Porqueres de Galatzó (above) has been transformed into an environmentally-friendly mountain hut for hikers in the Serra de Tramuntana thanks to funds raised by the sustainable tourism tax. The modern hikers refuge lies on the picturesque Dry Stone Route, close to hiking paths which run through the pine forest and olive groves. The hut has 52 beds divided between 12 rooms as well as a kitchen, dining rooms and a multifunctional room for educational and cultural activities.   In addition, the Song of Sybil has been recognised by UNESCO as an Intangible Cultural Heritage. The song, which dates back to medieval times, is performed on Christmas Eve throughout the island, including at the Sanctuary of Lluc and in Palma’s cathedral. == More information on the sustainable tourism tax and the projects it funds: www.sustainableislands.travel For more ideas of where to visit in Spain, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Spain

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Nouvelle-Aquitaine , we've picked out a selection of places to stay across this beautiful part of southwest France. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Nouvelle-Aquitaine :  Green = Places to stay   Blue = Food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Firstname Bordeaux A 147-room hotel in the Mériadeck neighbourhood from where it's a 15-minute walk to the city's main attractions, and about 20 minutes tram and walk from Saint Jean railway station. Between the 1960s and the 1980s this neglected corner of the city became a testing ground for some of the brightest modern architects of the time. Among the showstoppers they created was a concrete colossus with striking curvilinear balconies designed by Arretche-Karasinki and Marcel Nouviale for French insurance company Allianz. A super-sized example of upcycling, the building was recently repurposed as a hotel with chic, contemporary flair. Inside its brutalist exterior hides a serene, colourful space that welcomes guests in with clever lighting, lounge-on-me seating, a communal kitchen (so no need for energy intensive mini bars) and natural materials (each room has a bag of charcoal to purify the air). firstname.com/fr/hotels/bordeaux Grand Hotel Francais, Bordeaux A former 18th Century mansion on the historic rue du Temple in downtown Bordeaux, a few steps from the magnificent Saint-André Cathedral, about 20 minutes tram and walk from Saint Jean railway station. Behind its historic facade is a modern, vibrant Best Western 3-star hotel with 35 smart, unfussy rooms, an elaborate cocktail bar 'Bar Casa' ("inspired by the great artists of illusionism"), and buffet breakfast. It was the first hotel in Bordeaux to be awarded the European Ecolabel (in 2010) and subsequently has received La Clef Verte eco label for its commitment to reducing its impact on the environment with a range of eco initiatives throughout the hotel, such as low energy lighting, organic and Fair Trade products at breakfast, including honey from a bee hive it sponsors on the hillsides of Bourg-sur-Gironde. There's also a library of green-minded literature for guests. grand-hotel-francais.com Domaine Saint-Amand, Dordogne Valley A large multi-lodge glamping site in the Périgord, managed by a dynamic young couple, Jeanne and Baptiste, close to the medieval village of Saint-Amand-de-Coly (officially one of France’s Most Beautiful Villages and home to a spectacular fortified abbey). We cycled there on the Flow Vélo cycle track from Sarlat (see our feature on Outdoor Adventure in Nouvelle-Aquitaine ). A grocery and outdoor pool sit beside the restored farmhouse at its heart while 50 two-bedroom wooden cabins are spaced out scenically among fields of wildflowers and newly planted trees. Beautifully crafted with restful taupe and timber interiors, chic ensuite bathrooms, private kitchens and covered terraces, the cabins make a peaceful pitstop along the Flow Vélo trail. Especially if, like us, you pick up one of Jeanne’s homemade coq au vin or happen to visit on a night when the wood-fired pizza oven is being fired up. domainesaintamand.com La Maison des Etoiles, Dordogne Valley Close to Collonges la Rouge (officially one of the 'most beautiful villages in France' and on the route Saint Jacques de Compostelle), La Maison des Etoiles is a lovely hamlet of gites opposite Turenne in Corrèze, about an hour and half's cycle from Brive. There are several options for accommodation: a large communal house (Casastelle) for up to 11 people (great for groups, sleeping in a large common room surrounded by 11 beds), a house (La Grand Ourse) for up to 10 people, a cottage (Cassiopée) for 2 to 4 people, and for those wanting to admire the night sky from your bed, Domostella is a room-with-a-view, glass domed cabin for two people, where you can have breakfast on a little terrace facing the Turenne Castle. If you can stir yourself from the back-to-nature idyll, there are plenty of outdoor activities nearby, including mountain biking, climbing, via ferrata, horse-riding, canoeing and canyoning. lamaisondesetoiles.fr Hotel La Réserve, Biarritz- Pays Basque A peaceful 4-star 41-room hotel within seven acres of lawned gardens perched on the cliff overlooking the Atlantic, a mile from the railway station in St Jean de Luz – just far enough to escape the hustle and bustle of this popular seaside town, but close enough to walk to, including to its famous sandy beach. The hotel's Ilura outdoor restaurant specialises in using local ingredients to prepare Basque dishes, the Elaia Lounge serves simpler salads and sandwiches in the garden by the large infinity pool, while the Lounge Bar is the place to go for a drink and tapas in a cosy indoor sanctuary. hotel-lareserve.com Domaine de Bassilour, Biarritz- Pays Basque Three kilometres from Biarritz, in a 16-hectare park, Domaine de Bassilour is a small independent hotel that consists of rooms and suites in three kinds of accommodation close to the town of Bidart and less than five minutes from the beaches of the Basque coast - one is on a farm, another is in a 16th Century manor house and the third is a seven-room villa, which has a heated swimming pool. The hotel has been awarded the European Ecolabel (see our guide to ecolabels and certification schemes in tourism and hospitality ) for its efforts to reduce the impact of visitor stays on the environment, including geothermal underfloor heating, hemf roof insulation, reduction in the use of plastic bottles, a raft of energy efficient mechanisms in the rooms, such as low energy lighting and a key card system for in-room electricity so that power is cut when a guest leaves the room, and sustainable agricultural practices in its gardens, including use the practice of permaculture principles and the recycling or organic waste. domainedebassilour.com Hotel Chais Monnet & Spa, Cognac Come here to spoil yourself. In the heart of Cognac, a 12-minute walk from the railway station, this 104-room luxury hotel, consisting of classic French chic rooms, suites and apartments, is home to a Michelin-starred gourmet restaurant (the only one in Cognac), brasserie, jazz bark rooftop lounge , spa, steam room and sauna. The restaurant, run by head chef Mathis Debize, focuses on regional cuisine using local ingredients, so expect dishes such as Courgette de Charente, Boeuf de Montbéliard – marinated, of course, in cognac – and blueberries from the Médoc. Exceptional. chaismonnethotel.com Watch our video of Nouvelle-Aquitaine: Best Western Plus Richelieu, Limoges A popular 4-star, 46-room mansion in a pedestrianised area in the centre of Limoges. It serves a breakfast buffet and there are several excellent restaurants nearby for dinner in the centre of the city. It has been awarded the Clef Verte eco label certification and encourages to be mindful of their energy use: click on the website and you'll see a pop up message asking guests to join their approach in amending their actions during their stay to limit energy consumption. It's a 20-minute walk from the railway station and there's an electric charging station for cars. bestwestern-richelieu-limoges.com La Maison des Ambassadeurs, Atlantic Coast The first 5-star hotel in La Rochelle, La Maison des Ambassadeurs is the place to come to pamper yourself. Named after a French ambassador in the 19th Century, Albert Bodard, who considered the city his home, it's beneath the stone arches on the rue de Minage, a short walk from the vibrant old port and the historic centre of La Rochelle, and close to the city's covered market packed with local producers selling fresh vegetables, seasonal fruits and other produce from the region. The hotel's rooms (a mix of 'deluxe' rooms, 'deluxe', 'prestige' and 'family' suites) are modern yet minimalist, there's a spa, hammam, sauna and massage treatments, a gourmet restaurant serving seasonal dishes that it describes as "world cuisine enhanced by local products", a small outdoor pool and piano bar. maisondesambassadeurs.com Hotel La Villa Seren, Atlantic Coast In prime position overlooking Lake Hossegor, the 4-star Hotel La Villa Seren has 27 rooms, 2 suites and 3 family rooms with views over the popular salt lake - a nature reserve surrounded by pine forest. The hotel's spa has treatment rooms, sauna, hammam and a heated outdoor pool. The restaurant serves seasonal dishes that it says use 80% ingredients from less than 150km away, such as a harbour fish with green asparagus, and its wine bar features wines "from producers across our beautiful terroir" as well as craft beers and cocktails, such as an organic Pineau des Charentes. The lake has several sheltered beaches that are great for families and its calm waters are popular for watersports, including sailing, windsurfing, paddleboarding - there are several sailing clubs and schools for lessons and hiring equipment. villaseren.fr Hotel Thalazur Arcachon, Atlantic Coast The 124-room Hotel Thalazur Arcachon is one of 9 thalassotherapy centres across France that are part of the Thalazur brand, which specialises in wellbeing 'bien être' breaks. The setting of this one in Arcachon is unique – among an oak and pine forest just 150m from the popular Pereire beach – its decor matches the natural setting, focussing on wood and stone, with touches of rattan and cane. Many of the rooms have a balcony over the forest or the hotel garden, and guests can choose from a wide range of treatments and massages, including a sauna, hammam, jacuzzi, fitness room, and two seawater swimming pools (indoor and outdoor). The restaurant serves regional dishes, including seafood, accompanied by Bordeaux wines, and the hotel has recently been awarded the Clef Verte for its commitment to reduce its impact on the environment. thalazur.fr/arcachon/hotel Hotel Le Vieux Logis, Pyrenees A family-run 3-star 28-room hotel close to the Gave de Pau's valley about 10 miles to the west of Lourdes at the foot of the mountains of the Pyrenees. The smart modern rooms are tastefully decorated with beautiful fabrics and all have a balcony with views of the garden. Co-owner Francis is the chef and he specialises in seasonal country cooking using local products, while Marie-Pierre is on hand to advise on pairing with country wines. The Gave is popular for rafting and kayaking, and the hotel is just a kilometre from the famous Caves of Bétharram where you can descend to an 80m chasm to go on an underground boat ride among a spectacular array of stalagmites and stalactites. hotel-levieuxlogis.com Hotel Altéora Futuroscope, Poitiers Self-styled as an 'Eco-Responsible Hotel', the 3-star 294-room Hotel Altéora Futuroscope is 500m from the main entrance to the Futurescope park that's about 10 miles from Poitiers. It has been awarded the Clef Verte for its commitment to reducing the impact on the environment and also has a strong social commitment to local sustainable and responsible suppliers. It has planted over 2,000 trees in a degraded forest 30 minutes from the hotel, has installed a rooftop beehive, and has a commitment to reducing energy consumption, which has resulted in a 19% decrease in water consumption per customer, a 38% decrease in electricity consumption per customer, and 45% of unrecovered waste, as well as a raft of other initiatives, including using cooking oils in the restaurant. Futurescope is a multimedia, cinematography and audio-visual theme park with over 20 main attractions, imax cinemas, and a range of weird and wonderful rides, such as Cosmic collisions, the World of the Invisible, and Dancing with Robots - great for a day out for all the family. hotel-alteora-site-du-futuroscope.com == For nearby places to eat, sights of interest and outdoor adventure activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Nouvelle-Aquitaine

First Bus, one of the UK’s leading bus operators and global travel tech company FlixBus, have announce a new five-year partnership, boosting daily services across the South-West of England and expanding routes in northern cities including Leeds, Manchester, and Newcastle. Andrew Jarvis, Chief Operating Officer for First Bus said: "The new partnership with FlixBus marks another significant milestone in growing the First Bus B2B operation and we’re excited to serve further regions in the UK, helping to make longer distance travel easier. "This new contract will create around 70 jobs and strengthen our national footprint as we renew our presence in the contract express coach market segment.’ Andreas Schorling, FlixBus Managing Director UK comments: "Three years ago we set out to be the market leader in the UK. We’ve experienced unprecedented passenger demand and strong commercial success, and, as we onboard operators like First Bus, market leadership is becoming inevitable. "This is a golden era for coach travel where new modern, comfortable vehicles provide an enjoyable experience that passengers love. This is a renaissance for coach travel, and we see record numbers of people trying and returning to FlixBus.” According to a KPMG report commissioned by the Confederation of Passenger Transport, coach services have a multi-billion-pound economic impact on the UK, with one additional coach visiting a destination daily generating £1 million in economic value yearly.

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Spain , Ginny Light learns how conservation and tourism go hand in hand in the Sierra Norte Natural Park, Guadalajara The topography, the waterfalls, the biodiversity, and the opportunities to explore - everything about the Sierra Norte is on a huge scale. Everything, that is, except the crowds. This vast and rugged mountainous area, a designated natural park in the Castilla-La Mancha area of Spain to the south of Madrid, is rarely visited by anyone outside of Madrid. I spent a day in the park with director, Rafael Ruiz López De La Cova - not nearly enough to cover the whole territory, but enough to get a taste of what it has to offer and the challenges and triumphs of managing an area on this scale.   Balancing Conservation with Tourism Hiking is the foremost activity here owing to the variety of landscapes and the unceasing work of the Natural Park team to maintain the footpaths. Using sustainable materials and minimising machinery is Rafael’s priority. As we hiked the trail to the Chorreras de Despeñalagua waterfall we left behind the village of Valverde de Los Arroyos, a pristine and peaceful spot where the houses exemplify the region’s black architecture, owing to the use of locally mined slate in contrast to the terracotta and pale stone buildings typical of the area. The peaceful sound of running water accompanies this 4km return route, emanating from a stone-lined water channel that runs alongside the trail and delivers irrigation to the villages and their land thanks to the work of Rafael’s teams. Working with people and maintaining the population of the park is upmost to him. One might think that the ultimate for a natural park would be to expel humans altogether, but without farms to maintain pasture there is no grazing for herbivores on which the carnivores can be sustained (there are four known Iberian wolf groups in the park), and high mountain pasture is the most endangered habitat in Castilla-La Mancha. It would be overtaken with shrubs without grazing. Furthermore, with no people there are no businesses to sustain tourism, without which the park is not economically viable. “It's a human desert,” he says. The population density of Sierra Norte de Guadalajara is less than Siberia, and yet you’re only 1.5 hours from Madrid. And so Rafael works tirelessly to balance the needs of the population with the natural environment and delivering water for their crops and animals is a priority. He listens to the inhabitants - and indeed he’s well known and loved - everywhere I went with Rafael he was greeted with a warm reception of hugs and handshakes and he took time to talk to everyone. It’s not all inhabited however - “We have three wild areas with no trails or public access,” he says, “where nature can take over”. Elsewhere visitors are restricted. Rafael has commissioned studies on tourism impact and consequently limits tourist numbers based on an area’s carrying capacity (popular routes like the beech forest walk (below) are limited to those with a day permit). The aim is what he calls Naturalea: “to explore the territory, walk its trails, enjoy its calm villages and nature without leaving a mark”. Hiking  The route to the Chorreras de Despeñalagua is considered a ‘popular’ trail - we saw one other group on it. On many other routes - totalling 525km over 43 trails - you will find yourself alone all day, even in the peak season (spring and autumn weekends when the area is popular with Madrid residents escaping the city). The most challenging trails are the quietest and tackle the three highest peaks in Castilla-La Mancha, which are all within the boundaries of the park - Pico del Lobo (2,273 m), Cerrón (2,199 m) and Peña Cebollera Vieja or Tres Provincias (2,129 m) - and often snow-covered. There are 20 peaks of over 2,000 metres in the park alone so finding new and challenging walks is not a problem. More experienced hikers tackle these, meanwhile there are numerous shorter routes for families and less avid walkers, like the 6km Senda de Carretas trail. The Cart Trail is so called because it was the route used to transport charcoal produced in the beech forest carboneras,the traditional wooden huts where charcoal is made (there’s a reconstructed carbonera in the woods here). The trail starts along the banks of the Lillas River, an idyllic valley of cattle pasture. As we walked alongside it cow bells jangled and birds swooped overhead - the region is known for its Bonelli’s and golden eagles, peregrine falcons and Griffon vultures as well as countless smaller birds. After passing through oaks and silver birch - relatively rare in this biome - you reach the world’s most southerly beech forest, a strangely English scene with its leaf-strewn floor and the dappled sunshine passing through a layered canopy. It was here we saw another of the park residents, hearing its squeals before seeing it… a wild boar hightailing it through the trees. Other hiking routes are well mapped out on the park website and in brochures with options from 3-33km, all graded by difficulty and noted by environmental or historical interest, so it’s not hard to fill a long weekend - or even a whole month or three - with hiking in this park alone. Those looking to link trails together can, with the authorities blessing, request to stay overnight in one of the refuges and shelters, simple stone buildings dotted across the park ( contact details are here ). Rafael has also just released a series of geology themed walks and is in the process of installing 62 information panels about geology and geomorphology which will be unveiled in the autumn (nature information boards already exist on the more popular routes). The meeting of three geomorphological areas at the park means there’s a huge variety of rock types and features from the uplifted gneiss ridges of the Sierra del Ocejón to the red jagged ridges of the clay landscape to the south of the park with its gullies and canyons.    Walking and wild flowers in the Sierra Norte Natural Park. Photos: Guide with hiker at noticeboard and Hiker in beech forest: Christopher Willan. Walker by signage and Orchid: Richard Hammond Other activities nearby  The region is mountain biking heaven with at least eight mapped trails of between 6-47km offering the thrills of undulating terrain and epic views. Along these and the hiking routes are countless rivers, waterfalls and pools offering an enticing spot to cool off, albeit in bracing water that’s only recently run off the high mountain ridges. Swimming is allowed everywhere except Berbellido, Jaramilla and Pelagallinas rivers which are designated fish refuges, and for the preservation of the environment, hikers and cyclists are asked to stick to mapped trails. Climbing needs permission and is popular for both bouldering and potholing, especially the Ponton de la Olivia area with climbers from Madrid.   Altitude is a leading factor in the vegetation type, with the forests of yew, holly, birch, alder, ash, poplar and whitebeam growing at various heights alongside the beech and oak, meanwhile, the Sierra de Alto Rey is covered by natural Scots pine forest and higher up on the exposed slopes are brooms and heathers, and the distinctive piorno serrano, a yellow flowering shrub that can cover entire hillsides. In spring the wild flowers are sensational and Rafael pointed out to me wild foxgloves and cistus, a rose-link shrub as well as many cultivars we have bred for our own garden borders like salvia and lavender. Naturally with flora this diverse the fauna is rich and aside from the birds, boars and wolves there’s much to see here if it decides to show up (though there’s an awful lot of park to hide in). Butterflies are an easy spot in the lowland valleys, while the larger beasts like deer, martens, wildcats and badgers are a little harder to see. Otters and shrews live in the crystalline waters while green-black lizards and salamanders bask on rocks, though the latter is highly endangered and Rafael believes there are only two groups left in the park.   Wildlife spotting and adventure tourism aside there’s still more that Sierra Norte de Guadalajara can offer. The black architecture is intriguing and unique to this area leaving villages camouflaged with their surroundings. A few other buildings stand out like the Romanesque-style Santa Coloma church in Albendiego, Gothic-style Bonaval monastery in the village of Retiendas and the Ducal castle in Cogolludo, the first Renaissance palace in Spain. For organised tours and activities with a sustainable provider try La Tormenta ( https://latormenta.es/ ), which offers guided hiking, astronomy evenings and hire of climbing and hiking equipment. There’s also the Barbatona ecotourism centre ( https://barbatona.com/ ), a hostel and activities centre and Tubkala ( https://tubkala.com/ ) which offers photography, hiking and astronomy activities.   Where to stay   There are 43 villages in the park with residents numbering 2-30 people, and there’s one – La Vereda – with a single resident: a poet and biologist named Mario. Some have signed up to the Natura 2000 network, which offers training in environmentally-sound practices and knowledge around the park, so it’s a gold standard for eco tourists. These include:   La Alquería de Valverde country house in Valverde de los Arroyos ( https://www.laalqueriadevalverde.es/ ) has four apartments that sleep two to four people with features like open fireplaces and a mountain chalet feel. From 144 euros for two people for two nights in the summer season (prices go up in autumn and winter to cover heating costs) Al Viento del Ocejón country house in El Espinar - Campillo de Ranas ( https://alvientodelocejon.com/ ) has six double bedrooms in a simple rustic style with ensuite bathrooms and cost from 70 euros a night for two people. Casa del Sol country house in Campillo de Ranas ( https://www.casaruralcasadelsol.es/ ) is a former tavern and can be rented as a whole or by the bedroom - it has three rooms plus a suite and is known for its homemade breakfast. From 75 euros per night for a double room. Camping is only allowed at the Cantalojas campsite, Los Bonales ( https://campinglosbonales.es/ ) which has pitches for tents and motorhomes with electricity plug-in plus four modern bungalows that sleep up to six, two of which welcome pets. It has a super restaurant on site (see below). Where to eat  7 of 43 villages have somewhere you can get a drink, a meal or be hosted so if you’re not packing a picnic, you need to plan. Some of the restaurants are listed on the tourism website , here are a few of our favourites:   The restaurant at Los Bonales offers seasonal, fresh cooked food and a frequently changing menu under the friendly and efficient management of Maria. It serves breakfast, lunch and dinner and offers takeaway with dishes including salads, grilled meat and regional specialities. La Tarihuela restaurant and bar in Valverde de los Arroyos is unusual as it’s open all week (for most of the year). It’s a little more refined than some of the more rustic eateries but in essence is still founded on fresh seasonal food and traditional dishes with a twist. The restaurant at El Huerto de Abuelo is open open Fridays, Saturdays and national holidays and is highly thought of for its fresh-cooking as well as traditional dishes like Sierra style migas - fried breadcrumbs with egg, bacon and village chorizo.   If you like to eat hyper local, you can forage the park for funghi in the autumn. Bolete (or Penny Bun) and Niscalo or Pine Mushroom are prized finds. You need to register with the municipality and pay 5 euros for up to 5kg.   Planning a visit  The park has four visitor centres open during weekends and bank holidays from Easter to November: Cogolludo, El Cardoso de la Sierra, Hayedo de Tejera Negra and Hiendelaencina. These are a good starting point for getting bearings and planning itineraries on site.   You can access the park by road from Madrid or Guadalajara. There’s no public transport within the park but an excellent high speed rail network to Madrid from across Spain and beyond (see our guide to How to travel to Spain from the UK without flying ).   More information: Sierra Norte Natural Park: areasprotegidas.castillalamancha.es Black architecture of Guadalajara: spain.info

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Spain , Ginny Light explores Extremadura’s natural swimming pools Wild swimming is as ingrained in the culture of Extremadura as food and wine. In this wild and sparsely populated region to the south-west of Madrid, outdoor bathing is very much part of village life. Each summer across the region, rivers are dammed with boards laid between metal beams set into the river bed to restrict the flow downstream and create large deep pools. People of all ages gather round these pools at the end of the day, towels and picnics spread out to chat, swim and relax. During our week spent in the region we saw countless of these wild swimming spots, both dammed rivers and in plunge pools of waterfalls. In some villages, beaches form naturally while others have rocky platforms from which to dive into the water and cliffs for the daredevils to leap from. Alongside the swimming comes watersports like canoeing or canyoning, and hiking trails sprawl away from the rivers leading you further into the forests of oak and chestnut. These valleys are pockets of fertile land and rich with butterflies and birdsong, quite at odds with the image many have of Extremadura. Deeper meanings There are many theories around the etymology of the word Extremadura – and I found all of them to be accurate in some way or another. There are those that regard it as the ‘extreme’ border of the Christian kingdoms of the north and the Islamic empire to the south, and indeed the Moorish architecture here is testament to that. Then there is the theory of simply combining extrema  and dura  meaning ‘extreme’ and ‘hard’, a reflection of what life can be like for the relatively poor population of this region and the challenge of making a living here. Finally, some believe Extremadura means beyond or end of the Douro River, and it is this interpretation that shaped our trip as it led us to an unexpected jewel in Extremadura’s crown – the lush and verdant river valleys that cradle the tributaries of the Tagus and Guadiana rivers that cut through the steppe grasslands of this region. During our trip exploring the area, we never met another English tourist – these vast natural parks are visited rarely by anyone outside of Spain – or even Madrid. The city dwellers tend to visit at the weekends, retreating to fincas , larger remote farmstead properties, or the more modest cortijos  or townhouses handed down through generations of their families. On our trip many of the village houses were shuttered up and we found the weekdays blissfully quiet bar the busier centres like Merida, known for its Roman architecture. This is the time to visit and find yourself the only tourist watching the world go by in a town square or taking the plunge in a natural swimming pool. Here are our discoveries: Garganta de los Infiernos Nature Reserve  The Sierra de Gredos and Tormantos mountains offer a dramatic backdrop to the Garganta de los Infiernos Nature Reserve, a landscape that’s sustained by the water that drains from them. This pocket of lush vegetation is pock-marked with walking and cycle routes as well as idyllic swimming spots. Visit during the week and you could find you don’t see another soul, as we found when we visited the Los Pilones water feature, known as giant’s kettles. The series of potholes linked by waterfalls have been carved out of the granite by eddying stones scouring the rocks, leaving smooth bowls in a cascade down the hillside. They’re accessible by hiking up from the Centro de Interpretacion de la Reserva Natural , a visitor centre that is well worth a visit for its information on the history and geography of the area with English explanations alongside the Spanish. It’s a 6km return hike to Los Pilones from here up well-marked tracks which rise up through a planted forest of sweet chestnuts and onto to lichen draped oak trees, or there are longer loops of up to 28km if you like a challenge – you’ll be rewarded with epic viewpoints, countless streams and waterfalls and plenty of picnic and photography spots. Come late spring through to early autumn this is a beautiful swimming spot with the water flow a little lighter, though the temperature is often in single figures so swimmers should dress accordingly. You can take a dip in below the footbridge or lower straight into the pools above the bridge, though the rocks are notoriously slippy. Back at the centre there’s a café with outdoor seating in the shade that serves good simple food and snacks.  Photos: Chris Willan/Greentraveller Garganta Mayor This watercourse is just outside the mediaeval town of Garganta la Olla, known for its half-timbered and tile-roofed buildings which, like many of the settlements in this area, spill away from a church tower in the centre. We started the day watching the sun rise over this valley then headed down to the river which features a series of waterfalls and pools, popular swimming spots with local families. Closest to the village, Las Pilatillas de Abajo is a natural swimming pool created by damming a section of water. Alongside it is a café  that’s open during the summer and can be quite lively on summer evenings. The further you hike away from the villages, the quieter the pools get.   Piscina Natural de La Granja Though not as pretty as some of Extremadura’s other natural swimming areas, we came across this swimming spot on the Rio Ambroz just off the N-630 highway between Plasencia and Bejar, and were won over by its setting and the fab little Bar Chiringuito La Granja Beach alongside it. Sited on the La Vía de la Plata route of the Santiago de Compostela it’s doubtless been a welcome respite for many pilgrims too. The pool fills in the summer season and has a car park alongside it, then there’s Bar Chiringuito on the river bank. The all outside seating is undercover and the modest kitchen produces a varied menu that includes a superb house gazpacho as well as salads, grilled meat and chips, and sandwiches.   Other swimming areas to explore: Garganta de Cuartos in Losar de la Vera, Cáceres; Garganta de Alardos in Madrigal de la Vera and Garganta de Pedro Chate in Jaraíz de la Vera. == Disclosure: Ginny Light had full editorial control of this review, which has been written in her own words based on her experience of visiting Extremadura in June 2024. All opinions are the authors’ own.

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Spain , here's our pick of outdoor adventure activities across the country. Contributing writers: Paul Bloomfield, Ginny Light, Richard Hammond Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Green Spain : Green = Places to stay Blue = Food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Hiking in Garganta de los Infiernos, Extremadura The Sierra de Gredos and Tormantos mountains offer a dramatic backdrop to the Garganta de los Infiernos Nature Reserve, a landscape that’s sustained by the water that drains from them. This pocket of lush vegetation is pock-marked with walking and cycle routes as well as idyllic swimming spots. Visit during the week and you could find you don’t see another soul, as we found when we visited the Los Pilones water feature, known as giant’s kettles. The series potholes linked by waterfalls have been carved out of the granite by eddying stones scouring the rocks leaving smooth bowls in a cascade down the hillside. They’re accessible by hiking up from the Centro de Interpretacion de la Reserva Natural, a visitor centre that is well worth a visit for its information on the history and geography of the area with English explanations alongside the Spanish. See our feature article: Take a dip in Extremadura . More information: gargantadelosinfiernos.com Canyoning in the Jerte Valley, Extremadura The Jerte Valley is less than three hours west of Madrid and is best known for its spectacular cherry blossom in Spring (see our feature on Places of interest in Spain ). In summer, the region's rivers and gorges are the venue for a range of outdoor adventure, including the increasingly popular activity of canyoning, particularly at the waterfalls at Las Nogaleas and Los Hoyos. Gecko Adventures runs a range of guided canyoning trips in the Papuos ravine in the Jerte Valley where you can expect a heady mix of slides, abseils and jumps. Day trips run from April to November weather depending. https://www.aventurajerte.es/ Birdwatching in Monfrague National Park, Extremadura Bordered by the cities of Cáceres, Plasencia and Trujillo, at the convergence of the Tajo and Tiétar rivers, Monfrague National Park is regarded as one of the best birdwatching areas in Spain. It was the first area in Extremadura to be officially protected (it was declared a Natural Park in 1979) and is particularly well known as the site of one of largest colonies of black vultures in the world. It is also the home to black storks, Egyptian vultures and the rare imperial eagle. For more information: monfraguevivo.com . Birding Extremadura runs birdwatching trips to the region. See the Broom in Bloom in Gredos, Castilla y León Travel to the Sierra de Gredos region of Castilla y León in late Spring (May and early June) and you'll be treated to a profusion of yellow. The broom is the Piornos flower (a bush of tightly packed branches) which is covered with previous yellow flowers and be seen throughout the area often on the hillside, and late in June and July it can be seen higher up in the mountains. turismoavila.com/web/valle_tietar_gredos_sur Bathing in the natural waters at Puente del Duque, Castilla y León An idyllic spot for a picnic and swim beneath a Roman bridge amid pine forests on the River Tormes in the Sierra de Gredos, just south of Hoyos del Espino. Nearby there's a campsite , adventure park, and a lovely 3.5 mile walking trail, as well as several horse-riding and cycling routes. turismoavila.com Walking along river at Boca de Asno, Castilla y León In the heart of the beautiful Sierra de Guadarrama National Park (in the Castilla y León part of the park) the Boca del Asno recreational area is a hub for visitors. Don't miss the interpretation centre to learn about the Valsain Valley, then lace up your boots and head off along an easy forest trail that runs alongside the beautiful river Eresma. It's a lovely walk, perfect for a few hours stroll along the river and among the trees and wild horses in a picturesque setting. To get there by public transport, Line M3 Guadarrama National Park bus runs on Saturdays from Segovia to Boca del Asno via La Granja. parquenacionalsierraguadarrama.es/visita/contacto-cv/cv-valsain Hiking along the river at Boca de Asno. Photos: Christopher Willan/Greentraveller Hiking to Chorreras de Despeñalagua, Castilla-La Mancha The picturesque Chorreras de Despeñalagua waterfall is deep in the heart of the Sierra Norte Natural Park in Guadalajarra. The route there from Valverde de Los Arroyos is considered a ‘popular’ trail - we saw one other group on it. On many other routes in the park - totalling 525km over 43 trails - you will find yourself alone all day, even in the peak season (spring and autumn weekends when the area is popular with Madrid residents escaping the city). The most challenging trails are the quietest and tackle the three highest peaks in Castilla-La Mancha, which are all within the boundaries of the park - Pico del Lobo (2,273 m), Cerrón (2,199 m) and Peña Cebollera Vieja or Tres Provincias (2,129 m) - and often snow-covered. There are also numerous shorter routes for families and less avid walkers, such as the 6km Senda de Carretas trail – so called because it was the route used to transport charcoal produced in the beech forest carboneras, the traditional wooden huts where charcoal is made. The region is known for its Bonelli’s and golden eagles, peregrine falcons and Griffon vultures as well as countless smaller birds. See our feature article on Hiking and Conservation in the Sierra Norte Natural Park . Hiking at Valle de la Barranca, Sierra de Guadarrama One of the highlights of the Sierra de Guadarrama National Park, Valle de la Barranca by the mountains of Bola del Mundo and La Maliciosa is perfect for a walk away from the crowds. There's a signposted 11-kilometre trail up from the dam at Navacerrada that takes you on a forest trail up to the stunning sightseeing spot at Mirador de las Canchas, which looks out over the beautiful National Park. For more information on the regulations regarding visiting the National Park as well as the locations of the visitor centres, see: parquenacionalsierraguadarrama.es Cycle touring around Bilbao, Basque Country You can tour Bilbao on foot, by rollerskate, by go-kart and by kayak, but one of the best ways to cover a lot of ground and get a feel for the city is by bike. There are numerous operators of which Tourné is highly regarded. The three-hour Bilbao introduction tour is offered every day at 10am for 2-12 people. The tour includes classic sites such as the Guggenheim and Palacio Euskalduna staying mostly to cycle paths and away from heavy traffic. It costs €43 and includes a pintxos stop. The company also offers the ‘Street Art’ tour for €39 for three hours. It visits urban art that is scattered throughout the city, public art works, cultural centres, festivals and other innovative initiatives that are emerging . tournebilbao.com Watching our video of Green Spain: Winetasting at Marques de Riscal, Basque Country Rioja’s vineyards, or bodegas, are relatively new to the business of tourism but have rapidly upped the ante by building even more adventurous structures to draw visitors. One of the most arresting is the Marques de Riscal bodega, designed by Frank Gehry, of Bilbao’s Guggenheim museum fame. The company started making wine in 1862 and the original cellar remains in situ but in 2006 a dramatic new look was unveiled. It has been compared to a scrunched handkerchief and the ruffles of a flamenco dancer’s skirt. The contorted twists of pink, gold and silver titanium stand out against the combed hillsides in the village of Elciego, but strangely co-exist, reflecting the changing colours of the vines and the limestone rock. There is now a hotel, two restaurants, a shop, cafe and spa with grape-themed treatments and two ‘barrel baths’. A tour lasts 90 minutes, costs €25 per person (free for under 10s, €12.50 for 11-17 year olds) and includes tasting of two wines paired with sausage and chorizo from Rioja. marquesderiscal.com Surfing at Somo, Cantabria The Atlantic coastline of Green Spain makes it a popular year-round surfer’s paradise and there are countless beaches with good breaks and facilities for surfers. Somo is in the Bay of Santander in Cantabria and offers a 7km stretch of waves with lots of surf schools that are popular for their young, enthusiastic instructors and for the location. You can have individual lessons for two hours or join a group and pay less. Somo is accessible by ferry from Santander. The currents on the beach are strong and surfers should pay attention to the warning flags. For the latest surf conditions and forecast (including a webcam) and lists of surf schools see: surfatodacosta.es/en/home/ Bird watching at Covadonga Lakes, Asturias The Covadonga lakes are two glacial lakes in the Picos de Europa National Park about 30 minutes' drive from the striking church of the same name. En route to the lake are a number of viewpoints, or mirador, from which to take in the stunning Asturian landscape. At the lakes birdwatchers can see griffon vultures, eagles, redstarts, yellow-billed choughs and northern wheatears in the summer. The company Birdwatch Asturias can provide a guide, telescope, bird guides and binoculars, including ones for children, for a four-hour tour starting in Cangas de Onís. The tours, on foot and by car, include information about agrarian life, geography and, of course, bird behaviour, and run from mid-March to the end of October.   birdwatchasturias.es Diving in Fuciño do Porco, Galicia The Fuciño do Porco, or ‘pig’s snout’ dive site in Punta Socastro is best known for its natural tunnel. This makes for an exciting dive that is accessible for all levels of diver from beginner to advanced. Atlantic marine wildlife includes octopus, brightly coloured sea slugs and star fish. The guided dive for 1-10 people takes 90 minutes, including weights and tank air. wildsea.eu/spain Following in the footsteps of pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago, Galicia Across Green Spain one can expect sightings of a scallop shell sign on trees, posts and walls guiding walkers along the trail of the famous pilgrimage route, the Camino de Santiago. There are eight main routes but the original, the Camino Frances, starts in France at St Jean Pied de Port and crosses the Pyrenees and Green Spain region to Santiago de Compostela. The shortest version is the Camino Inglés, starting in A Coruña and covering just over 100km to Santiago. It can also be tackled by bicycle or on horseback. The idea is to complete it alone, although most travel in groups. Either way, it is time for quiet contemplation and appreciation of nature, as well as the astoundingly beautiful cathedral at the end. caminodesantiago.gal/es/inicio Hiking at Montserrat Natural Park, Paisatges de Barcelona The mountain of Montserrat, 50km north-west of Barcelona, is best known as the site of the historic Benedictine Monastery of Santa Maria, founded in 1025, home to the 12th-century statue of Our Lady of Montserrat (the so-called ‘Black Virgin’) that still attracts countless pilgrims today. But though the extensive main monastery complex is the big draw, the striking rock outcrops of the surrounding natural park provide a dramatic backdrop for hikes including the testing climb up to the highest peak, San Jeroni. Numerous paths offer walks for a range of levels of experience and ability; the easy Tebes Trail visits the ruins of the ancient churches of San Juan, San Onofre and Santa Magdalena. Via ferrata and rock-climbing tours are also available. montserratvisita.com Watch our video of winter in Catalonia: Cycling the Greenway with Esgambi, Terres de l’Ebre, Catalonia Nearly half a century ago, the train line between Arnes, on the Aragon border, and Tortosa on the lower Ebro closed. But the failure of the railway has been a boon for bikers – the route has now been converted into a wonderful Green Way cycle trail, looping 49km around the dramatic rock outcrops of Els Ports Natural Park and past charming and historic towns and villages such as Horta de Sant Joan, where Picasso spent some years during his youth (“Everything I know, I learned in Horta”, he once said). esgambi.com Birdwatching by Kayak on the Ebro River, Terres de l’Ebre The Ebro is Spain’s longest river, flowing 910km south from the Cantabrian Mountains to the Mediterranean at the shimmering delta south-west of Tarragona. It’s also thriving with life, and a guided kayak trip with En Blau offers a wonderful opportunity to admire the colourful and charismatic species that throng its banks. enblau.cat Birdwatching by kayak on the Ebro river. Photos: Greentraveller Watch our video of summer in Catalonia, including kayaking on the Ebro River: Walking the Valleys and High Slopes of Las Alpujarras As Paul Bloomfield writes in our Guide to Las Alpujarras , the southern slopes of the Sierra Nevada mountains in Andalucia’s Granada and Almería provinces: "There’s no denying the ‘Chris Stewart Effect’ in Las Alpujarras. Before the former Genesis drummer penned Driving Over Lemons , his paean to farm life in a rural Alpujarran community, few of us could pinpoint the region on a map. Today, Las Alpujarras is a byword for rustic Spanish idyll". Spring is heralded by the appearance of almond blossom, autumn brings sweet chestnuts, and the onset of winter wrestles olives from their branches, soon to be turned into the region’s prized olive oil. UK-based tour operator Inntravel runs self-guided walking through the valleys and high slopes of this beautiful region, following the trans-European long-distance GR7 path from Athens to Tarifa, in the shadow of the Sierra Nevada and along the cavernous Poqueira Gorge. It also runs trips in the desert-like landscapes of Almería, the chestnut-clad Aracena Sierra near Seville, and the mountains surrounding famous Ronda. inntravel.co.uk/walking-holidays/spain Cross-country skiing at Puerto de la Ragua, Almería In a lesser-known section of the Sierra Nevada National Park, Puerto de la Ragua is a hub for a range of outdoor summer activities, including hiking, climbing, mountain biking, and horse-riding, while in winter it's a playground for cross-country skiers. Covering more than 40km, the ski area has both linear and circular routes, as well as mountain passes linking the Marquesada with Ferreira and the rest of Las Alpujarras. At the resort, there's a shelter-refuge for up to 32 people with a bar-restaurant and an information point. For ski reports see:   puertodelaragua.com . More information :   andalucia.org Cycling in Sierra Nevada and Granada, Andalucia One of the popular cycling destinations in Spain, the Sierra Nevada offers a range of attractions, including the white mountain villages of the Alpujarras, the cave houses in Guadix, the classic Sierra de Pandera ride that's in the Vuelta a España and the ascent of the Sierra Nevada itself "riding to the roof of Spain". Rutas MTB Granada  offers a range of opportunities including road cycling, mountain biking and gravel cycling in the Sierra Nevada, while Saddle Skedaddle  runs a 7-day road cycling holiday in the Sierra Nevada and Granada. Watch Green Traveller's video of Spain: Snorkelling and Scuba diving in Formentera The popularity of snorkelling and scuba diving on Formentera is in no small part thanks to the existence of its posidonia oceanica  seagrass plant meadows. These unique underwater seagrass fields help to oxygenate the water and maintain its clarity; visibility is so good that octopus, barracuda, plaice, grouper, bream, red mullet, moray eels, starfish and sponges are regularly seen. Some lucky divers report seeing turtles and dolphins too. Whether you want to give scuba a go for the first time or you’re an experienced diver, the island’s four local scuba companies will be glad to show you the ropes (or, rather, the reefs). Cycle touring across Mallorca Mallorca is a mecca for cyclists. The combination of mountains, scenic trails, a long winter season (October to May) has led to it becoming one of the most popular in the world for cycling. An important factor is that it has excellent infrastructure for cyclists, with over 120 hotels welcoming cyclists with bike rental and repair services, massage services and adapted menus to help you recover from and conquer the challenging routes. A series of routes have been developed with varying degrees of difficulty, both in in terms of distance and unevenness of the terrain, grouped into 4 different areas across the island. The 16 routes have a total length of 1,732 km and connect the main population centres and places of interest in Mallorca, such as its towns, lighthouses, hermitages and the Serra de Tramuntana mountain range. mallorca.es/en/cycle-touring E-biking round Ibiza Electric cycling has boomed in recent years thanks to the improvements in battery life and availability of a new breed of bikes that can help you spend all day long without having to re-charge, whether it's an off-road adventure or a leisurely ride along the coast. You can get to see a lot of Ibiza in a day on an e-bike and there are a multitude of options, whether you want to go for just a few hours or spend the whole day in the sadddle. Bike Ibiza rents out e-bikes and provides tours all over the island for everyone from novices to seasoned cyclists, including on the neighbouring island of Formentera. Swimming in the saltwater pools in Garachico, Tenerife, Canary Islands Head to the quieter side of the island for a spot of natural swimming. The natural pools of El Caletón in Garachico on the northern coast of the island (about 50km west of the capital Santa Cruz) are the perfect place to cool off after exploring the historic old town of Garachico, Tenerife's first port that was built in the 15th Century. Declared a Site of Cultural Interest in 1994, it is one of the best preserved places in the archipelago. turismo.garachico.es Whale watching in Tenerife La Gomera Whale Heritage Site The waters around Tenerife and La Gomera were Europe's first Whale Heritage Area - awarded the accolade for its population of pilot whales alongside a variety of other whale and dolphin species within a Special Area of Conservation, including Risso's dolphin, Sperm whale, Killer whale, Fin whale and common bottlenose dolphins. The interest in the majestic marine species has blossomed in recent years and there are ample opportunities to go whale watching, with tours departing from the west coast of La Gomera and Tenerife from just 2 hours to trips that last all day long. tenerifewhalewatching.com , lagomera.travel . For more information about Wildlife Heritage Areas, see: wildlifeheritageareas.org Taking part in the Gran Canaria Walking Festival In October each year, the Gran Canaria Walking Festival draws in visitors from all over the world. The four organised routes aim to showcase the best of the island's landscape - this year (the 13th year of the festival), the four routes are Under the Shelter of Doramas, The Peak of the Navigators (which starts close to the highest point on the island), Discovering the Aldea coastline, and the Road to the Top, which starts from Tejeda, listed as one of the most beautiful villages in Spain. See the full programme of walks at: grancanariawalkingfestival.com == For nearby characterful places to stay, local food and drink, and local sights of interest, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Spain

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Spain , here's our pick out of visitor attractions across the country. Contributing writers: Paul Bloomfield, Ginny Light, Richard Hammond Photos: Christopher Willan/Greentraveller Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Green Spain : Green = Places to stay Blue = Food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Caozo Waterfall, Valdastillas, Extremadura One of the most accessible of several spectacular waterfalls in Extremadura, it's just a short walk of the main CC.17.5 road between Piornal and Valdastillas. The 30m tumble of water is best viewed from the handy viewing platform that has been built to make it safer to admire this breathtaking sight. https://reservaextremadura.com/en/actividad/cascada-el-caozo The viewing platform at Caozo Waterfall, Extremadura. Photo: Christopher Willan Cherry Blossom Festivals, Extremadura Extremadura's Jerte Valley is famous world-wide for its cherries - we’ve probably all eaten them from our local supermarkets as they’re widely exported. Over 200 cherry types are grown in the area including three varieties of Picota which are highly prized. They’re a huge bright red fruit that could be almost as large as plums and grow straight from the branch with no stalk. Visitors can try their hand at picking, a firm pulling motion straight from tree with cherries placed into baskets that are handmade from the wood of nearby chestnut trees. You can organise cherry tours and picking through the village tourist offices or hotels and join in the festivities of the harvest (May-September) with a day’s picking rewarded with a large alfresco meal. Spring festivals celebrate the cherry blossoms with parties, live music, workshops and cooking events, there’s also the Cherry Museum in a former Civil Guard quarters in Cabezuela del Valle. It’s friendly, though its information is in Spanish only. turismovalledeljerte.com/cerezo-en-flor Garganta la Olla and nearby natural bathing areas, Extremadura Wild swimming is very much part of village life in this wild and sparsely populated region to the south-west of Madrid. Each summer across the region, rivers are dammed using boards between metal beams set into the riverbed to restrict the flow downstream and create large deep pools for people of all ages to gather to chat, swim and relax. There are many of these watercourses outside the medieval town of Gargana la Olla, known for its half-timbered and tile-roofed buildings. On our trip to Extremadura, we started the day watching the sun rise over this valley then headed down to the river which features a series of waterfalls and pools, popular swimming spots with local families. Closest to the village, Las Pilatillas de Abajo is a natural swimming pool created by damming a section of water. Other swimming areas include Garganta de Cuartos in Losar de la Vera, Cáceres; Garganta de Alardos in Madrigal de la Vera and Garganta de Pedro Chate in Jaraíz de la Vera. See our feature article Taking a dip in Extremadura . More info:  turismoextremadura.com Left: Garganta la Olla; Right: Las Pilatillas de Abajo Photos: Christopher Willan/Greentraveller La Alberca, Castilla y León The first rural town in Spain to be declared a National Historic Monument, La Alberca is the capital of Sierra de Francia Comarca, closed to the border with Portugal. Pride of place is the Plaza Mayor square, surrounded by colonnaded arcades and several bars, cafes and restaurants serving mostly traditional food. La Asunción parish church, built in the 18th century, is home to a granite pulpit from the 16th century and a Gothic processional cross in gilt copper, as well as a figure of the Cristo del Sudor attributed to Juan de Juni. laalberca.com El Bosque de Béjar, Castilla y León Close to the city of Béjar (renowned for being a reference point for the Renaissance in Spain, at the interchange between a medieval castle-fortress and a Renaissance village), El Bosque de Béjar, built in the mid 16th Century, is famous for its Italian-style mansion villa, orchard, and romantic garden among forests of huge trees and ornamental water features. Visit in autumn for the rich colours of hazel, chestnut and walnut trees. Open Wed mornings, and all day Thursday to Sunday, guided tours available at 5.30pm. More information: turismocastillayleon.com Jardines de la Granja, Castilla y León The formal French-style gardens of the magnificent Jardines de la Granja are considered "the most important contribution to the reign of Philip V to the history of Spanish gardens". In front of the Versaille-like Royal Palace, drawing on water from the nearby mountains of Montes de Valsaín using an 18th Century hydraulic system still in use today, the iconic 'La Fama' fountains (lined with marble statues) is one of 25 'Monumental Foundations'. Come here to simply to stroll around and admire the baroquial splendour that extends over 146 hectares of gardens and forest (look out for the impressive mountain long views along tree-lined paths). Open year round Tuesday to Sunday. patrimonionacional.es Natural Park of Las Batuecas and Sierra de Francia, Castilla y León In the south of Salamanca close to La Alberca, the Natural Park of Las Batuecas and Sierra de Francia is part of the western foothills of the Central Mountain Range whose highest points (Pico La Hastiala and Peña de Francia) dominate the skyline. It's a mystically place contrasting deep canyons with flat plains, and is an important site of historic and artistic heritage, including Neolithic rock art (at La Batueca, Castañar, Caballos, Monedas and Risca), shrines and monasteries. The range of habitats are home to a variety of wildlife, including Iberian lynx and ibex, and a rich variety of birds, such as griffon and black vultures, Egyptian vultures, golden eagle, peregrine falcons, and eagle owl. The visitor centre is in Carretera Las Batuecas . More information: patrimonionatural.org and turismocastilla.com Sierra Norte Natural Park, Castilla-La Mancha Everything about the Sierra Norte Natural Park in Guadalajara is on a huge scale - the relief, the waterfalls, the biodiversity and the opportunities to explore this vast and rugged mountainous area. It's a designated natural park in the Castilla-La Mancha area of Spain to the south of Madrid, rarely visited by anyone outside of Madrid, and yet it has so much to see and do. For an in-depth information about the park, where to stay and eat nearby, see our feature article Hiking and Conservation in the Sierra Norte Natural Park . Black architecture villages, Castilla-La Mancha The use of locally mined slate (in contrast to the terracotta and pale stone buildings typical of the area) meant that there are several villages in Castilla-La Mancha known as black architecture villages, their unusual dark tones intriguing camouflaging the buildings with their surroundings. Just 50 kilometres from the city of Guadalajara, they're on the slopes of Mount Ocejón: those on the eastern slope are Retiendas, Campillejo, El Espinar, Roblelacasa, Campillo de Ranas, Robleluengo and Majaelrayo; those on the western slope are Almiruete, Palancares and Valverde de los Arroyos. At a push, they can all be visited in a day by car, but if you take your time, you can visit them at a more comfortable pace over several days, which will allow time to visit some of the other main attractions in the area, such as the ruins of the Cistercian monastery of Bonaval and the town of Cogolludo, with a notable Plaza Mayor and Ducal Palace. spain.info/en/region/guadalajara-province/ Guadarrama National Park, Communidad de Madrid The fourth largest national park in Spain (covering nearly 34000 hectares), the Sierra de Guadarrama is just one hour by car from Madrid. Famous for providing the backdrop for countless films (as well as the landscape backgrounds of Velázquez's royal portraits), the terrain ranges from oak and pine groves and creeping juniper forests a lower areas, while higher up there are high-altitude pastures, wet meadows and small patches of birch and. yew. It's home to a remarkable range of biodiversity, including a variety of beautiful butterflies, more than 1,000 plant species, including 83 that are endemic, many mountain birds, such as the alpine accentor, wheatear, bluethroat and red rock thrush, endangered species such as the black vulture, imperial eagle and black stork, and nearly 60 species of mammals, including mountain goats, otters and a variety of bats. parquenacionalsierraguadarrama.es Chillida’s Wind Comb, San Sebastian, The Basque Country San Sebastian has numerous public artworks, the most famous of which is Eduardo Chillida’s three dramatic steel sculptures mounted on rocks at the western end of Ondarreta beach. The situation was chosen by Basque architect Luis Peña Ganchegui to be within the tidal ranges so the sculptures look dramatically different when viewed at high or low tide. These ‘Peigne du Vent’ are the starting point for the Côte Contemporaine walking trail  that includes further work by Chillida and fellow Basque sculptor, Nestor Basterretxea. At the eastern end of the beach a pedestrian tunnel below the El Pico del Loro outcrop has a changing display of art and leads to La Concha beach and another Chillida work. sansebastianturismo.com Caves of Altamira, Cantabria Two kilometres outside Santillana del Mar are the Altamira caves where a series of 145,000-year-old paintings of bison, doe and horses were found. The actual relics are closed to visitors to protect them from deterioration, bar a tiny ballot of ticket-holders each week, but a painstakingly built replica exists, with drawings created using the charcoal and red oxides of the original. The cave was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1985 (considered to possess 'Exceptional Universal Value') and is often referred to as ‘the Sistine Chapel’ of quaternary art. There is also a museum which is host to temporary exhibitions and workshops alongside information about the paintings and their discovery. The site is closed on Mondays and some public holidays. spain.info/en/places-of-interest/national-museum-research-centre-altamira Llanes, Asturias One of the most popular Asturian towns, Llanes (pronounced ‘Janice’) has it all - a pretty harbour front, sandy coves and the Picos de Europa mountains as a backdrop. Part of the town’s medieval defences remain, including 300 metres of pre-Romanesque walls and a tower now occupied by the tourist office. Down at the port, the sea defences has been given a makeover by Basque artist Agustin Ibarrrola whose Cubes of Memory' are a public artwork. Of the 29 beaches close to the town the most popular is Playa el Sablón because it is tranquil and reached by the Paseo San Pedro walk, a scenic 800 metres long. However, the most curious beaches are Cobijeru and Gulpiyuri, which face inland and have been created by water and sand rushing through gaps in the cliff. Another beach, Poo, is the most giggle-inducing but beautiful despite the name and pronounced ‘Poe’ in Spanish. Elaborate colonial mansions surround Llanes that were built by emigres returning from Latin America bringing with them wealth from exports and a cosmopolitan style termed ‘Indian architecture’. Artisan cheese from ‘queserías’ and cider houses called ‘ sidrerías ’ are among the gastronomic specialities. spain.info/en/destination/llanes/ Lugo, Galicia Lugo is best known for its city walls - the entire perimeter around what was the Roman town of Lucus Augusti remain intact making them the finest example of late Roman fortifications in western Europe. Visitors can encircle the town on the 2.3km walkway along the top of the walls. Lugo is also one of the main stopping off points along the Camino Primitivo, the oldest Camino de Santiago route, and is famous for its cathedral, Praza de Santa Maria. The 12th century Romanesque building has evolved over time to incorporate elements of Baroque, Gothic and Neoclassical styles. spain.info/en/destination/lugo/ La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park, Girona Pyrenees, Catalonia This unique region in far north-eastern Catalonia was created by dramatic volcanic ructions, and some 40 cones and more than 20 lava flows are still evident in the natural park. Thanks to the fertile volcanic soil and climate it’s a natural wonderland, much forested and scattered with historic villages. turismegarrotxa.com Video of La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park filmed by Richard Hammond and produced by Green Traveller productions  for DestiMED PLUS Val d’Aran Biosphere Destination, Val d’Aran, Catalonia The spectacular Pyrenean landscapes, dominated by mountains, forests, lakes and the Garona River are the main scenic attractions of this long-isolated highland valley, and key reasons why it became the first mountain tourist destination to receive UNESCO Biosphere Responsible Tourism Certification. spain.info/en/nature/biosphere-reserve-val-aran Romanesque churches of the Boí Valley, Lleida Pyrenees, Catalonia The eight Romanesque churches and hermitage retreat of the Boí Valley are collectively a UNESCO World Heritage Site. They were built during the 11th and 12th Century, based on an architectural style imported from northern Italy of iconic slim bell-towers and rounded arcading and pilaster strips. centreromanic.com Castillo de La Calahorra, Las Alpujarras, Granada Looking for all the world like a giant sandcastle looming over the plains east of Granada, the mighty fortress at La Calahorra is arguably the most unusual and dramatic castle in Spain. Its four bulbous corner towers and high, massive outer walls enclose an elegant Italian Renaissance interior, built between 1509 and 1512 for nobleman Rodrigo de Vivar y Mendoza on the site of a much older Moorish bastion. Today it’s privately owned and only available to visit on Wednesdays (usually 10am-1pm and 5-7pm or by appointment with caretaker Antonio Trivaldo, +34 958 67 70 98). It’s been used as a film set more than once – you might have spotted it during a surreal scene in the Spice Girls’ movie! La Calahorra is at the bottom (northern) end of the road leading down from the Puerto de la Ragua, the main pass over the Sierra Nevada. portal.dipgra.es Guadix, Las Alpujarras, Granada Now famous for its (still inhabited) troglodyte dwellings, Guadix was already old when the Romans settled here at the town they called Acci – indeed, Hadrian reputedly marvelled at the antiquity of Guadix – before the Moors established their own town of Wadi-Ash (‘River of Life’). About 1000 people still live in caves, and a visit to one of the cave museums provides fascinating insights into subterranean life. The 11th-century Islamic Alcazaba (castle, accessed from Calle Barradas) affords views over the cave quarter of the city, and the 16th-century sandstone baroque-Renaissance cathedral is also worth exploring. spain.info/en/destination/guadix Es Caló de Sant Agustí, Formentera A traditional fishing village to the east of the island’s north coast, Es Caló’s picturesque natural harbour is lined with simple wooden boathouses designed to protect the locals’ small vessels from the salt water. One of the best places on the island to see these traditional dry docks (with their distinctive matchstick-style wooden ramps and roofs they were declared an official site of cultural interest since 2002), the village is also a great place for a post-swim lunch or dinner, with several restaurants to choose from. To the west are the sandy coves of Ses Platgetes and, to the east, the cliffs of La Mola, reachable on foot via green route 25, which follows a historic path to La Mola lighthouse known as the Camí de Sa Pujada. formentera.es/en/explore/villages Estany Pudent y Ses Salines, Formentera A large lake in the north of the island, between La Savina and Es Pujols, Estany Pudent is a must-visit for birdwatchers and, as such, off-limits to swimmers. Flamingos, storks and shelducks can often be spotted from the Es Brolls walking and cycle path, which fringes the lagoon, as can several species of waders, ducks and herons. It’s also home to one of the largest concentrations of black-necked grebes in Europe; sometimes they flock here in their thousands. Nearby are the salt flats of Ses Salines, which flush pink and violet in the summer. In use for centuries, their importance in the island’s long history of salt production saw them declared a monument of historical cultural interest in 2004. See also our section on birdwatching in Formentera in Activities in Formentera . Casita Verde, Ibiza A pioneering ecology centre "in the green heart of Ibiza's beautiful countryside". Founded by Chris Dews in 1993, it's as much a showcase and educational hub for green living as it is a visitor centre, with a demonstration treehouse, wagon-style tiny house and a number of green-living spaces and communcal areas. Tours run each Sunday, from the beginning of October until the end of May, during which you'll learn about the application and principles of Permaculture techniques, the use of renewable energy, the collection, responsible consumption and reuse of water, as well as the reuse and recycling of waste materials. It has now opened a second site in Granada, and has also produced a handy online guide to green Ibiza , listing a range of environmental businesses, organisations and facilities across the island, from accommodation and visitor attractions to recycling centres and ecological stores. casitaverde.com Valldemossa, Mallorca The car-free historic town of Valldemossa (whose weekly market is on Sundays) is high up within the World Heritage Tramuntana mountain range in the west of the island, just inland from the coast. Expect cobbled streets amid impressive mountain views, surrounded by lush forests, olive and almond trees. It's home to La Cartuja – an ancient Carthusian Monastery that was once the residence of Jaime II, and housed priests from 1399 to 1835, as well as two well-known visitors the polish composer Frederic Chopin and French writer George Sand whose writings and correspondence are kept here. It's also   home   to the Costa Nord cultural centre, which hosts concerts and exhibitions.   mallorca.es/en/-/valldemossa Garajonay National Park, La Gomera, Canary Islands Sixty minutes by boat from the west of Tenerife (also reachable by plane from Tenerife and Gran Canaria), La Gomera feels like a million miles away from the packed resorts of its larger neighbours. The entire island is a biosphere reserve, covering an area of just over 370 square kilometres, and is defined by a volcanic interior criss-crossed by hiking trails. The ancient green laurel forests of Garajonay National Park, in the centre and north of the island, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site known for its intense green forests, huge rocky outcrops, and over a thousand endemic species, including giant lizards, skinks, tree frogs and pigeons (Laurel ad Bolle's). The visitor centre is at Juego de Bolas in the north of the land, and there is accommodation just outside the park's boundary – for more information see lagomera.travel. Transvulcania Ultramarathon, La Palma, Canary Islands The World Heritage Biosphere island of La Palma is the most northwesterly of the Canary Islands. In May it hosts a 'Trasvulcania marathon' where runners follow trails across the island's impressive volcanic landscape. The main route follows the Ruta del Baston and then over the Caldera de Taburiente National Park as it ascends to the Roque de los Muchachos. There are several options: a full ultra marathon (just over 73km from the Fuencaliente Lighthouse to Los Llannos de Aridane), a half marathon, a standard marathon and the Vertical KM, which is a 7-kilometre climb up from Puerto de Tazacorte beach (in the opposite direction of the ultra marathon's course) up to the viewpoint of Piedra del Guanche with views of the northeast of the island and the Ardiane Valley. Not for the faint hearted! The island is reachable by boat from the other islands but also has its own international airport with direct flights from several Spanish cities (including Bilbao, Madrid and Barcelona) and several European cities, including Berlin, London, Zürich and Amsterdam. transvulcania.com/en/sustainability El Hierro, Canary Islands El Hierro is the most westerly, southerly and least populated of the Canary Islands that's both a World Heritage Reserve and a Geopark. It's known for its green dense forests, rocky cliffs and natural pools as well as being a symbol of sustainability thanks to its policy of using renewable energy – it draws on both wind and hydro-electric energy to meet all of the island's demand for electricity. The island's tourism authorities are also on a mission to encourage low impact activities, such as ecotourism, hiking and birdwatching, to reduce the impact of tourism on the island's environment. The island is reachable by boat, a 2-3 hour journey from the south of Tenerife, or by plane from Tenerife (40 minutes) and Gran Canaria (55 minutes). The Mar de las Calmas off the island of El Hierro, is planning to be Spain’s first fully marine national park. The area is already renowned for its biodiversity and underwater volcanic landscapes and is set to become the country's 17th national park. The park’s designation will ensure the preservation of unique volcanic reefs, caves, and deep-sea habitats that support various species, including sperm whales and whale sharks. elhierro.travel == For nearby places to stay, local food and drink, and low impact outdoor adventure activities, see Green Traveller's Guide to Spain

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Spain , here's our pick of places to eat across the country. Contributing writers: Paul Bloomfield, Ginny Light, Richard Hammond Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Green Spain : Green = Places to stay Blue = Food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Hotel Rural Abadia de Yuste, Extremadura A 15-bedroom hotel and restaurant in a 16th Century restored abbey in Yuste, a pretty town and best known for the Monastery of Yuste, where Charles V, Roman Emperor, retired and died. All bread and pastries are made on site and the chef, Rubén Homero, celebrates sustainable cooking ‘the only part of the pig we don't eat is the grunt’ he told us and many of the dishes make use of leftovers - the region' s most popular is migas extremenas, which makes yesterday's bread into breadcrumbs to fry up with pieces of leftover ham and pimenton spice, which is like paprika and widely produced in the region. abadiadeyuste.com Hotel Rural Abadia de Yuste's chef, Rubén Homero preparing dishes. Photos : Christopher Willan/Greentraveller Habitat Cigueña Negra, Extremadura A steakhouse and tapas bar (and shop) – that has achieved a MICHELIN green star – at a 12-room country house hotel in a remote valley in Cáceres (one of the refuges of the black stork, hence the name), just a few kilometres from San Martín de Trevejo and Valverde del Fresno, close to the Portuguese border in the far west of Spain. Dishes are drawn from the 220-hectare estate's livestock (including cattle and acorn-fed Iberian pigs) and organic extra virgin olive oil products, focusing on grilled dishes, such as their own goat meat, Iberian pork and RetWagyu beef (a cross between Retinto and Wagyu). habitatcn.com/es/gastronomia Albero, Extremadura In the pretty main square of Plasencia overlooked by the town hall, Albero specialises in regional dishes and nothing is too much trouble for the waiters and chef. The tapas here include classics like the Jamón Iberico de Bellota from pigs raised on Holm Oak acorns and migas con huevo - the breadcrumbs, pimentón and Iberian ham dish but with a fried egg. Morcilla patatera con huevos fritos is another one to try - black sausage with pork and potato, pimentón and scrambled eggs, or zorongollo - roasted pepper often served on toasted bread. You typically pay 5 euros for a tapas dish and 15-20 euros for a main with slightly larger sharing tapas available called para compartir which, at Albero, included croquettes, salads, and seafood like squid, prawns and mussels. alberoplasencia.com Outdoor dining at Albero in the main square of Plasencia Photos : Christopher Willan/Greentraveller Tapas in La Alberca, Castilla y León Visit any one of a string of classic tapas bars and restaurants serving provincial favourites in prime position in the characterful historic Plaza Mayor square of La Alberca – the first rural town in Spain to be declared a National Historic Monument. For all the options, see turismosierradefrancia.es/donde-comer Las Bóvedas, Castilla y León Based at the medieval-style Hotel Abadía de los Templarios, Las   Bóvedas is just over a kilometre from the famed architecture of La Alberca and close to Sierra de Francia and the Batuecas Natural Park. Within a splendid large vaulted room, it specialists in seasonal ingredients, and is known for its roast meats prepared in a wood-fired oven. Surrounded by gardens and lakes, there's a large outdoor seated area for large gatherings that looks out onto the mountains. abadiadelostemplarios.com/restaurante La Tarihuela, Valverde de los Arroyos, Castilla-La Mancha In the village of Valverde de los Arroyos (two hours from Madrid), famed for being one of the black architecture villages of Castilla-La Mancha , La Tarifuela (a restaurant and gin bar) is in the same building as the village's Ethnographic Museum. It is open all week (for most of the year) – which is unusual in this region – it’s a little more refined than some of the more rustic eateries nearby, but in essence is still founded on fresh seasonal food and traditional dishes with a twist, including grilled meats and fish cooked in a charcoal oven, with vegetables from the town's orchards. Tel: +34 652 09 40 18. turismocastillalamancha.es El Huerto del Abuelo, Castilla-La Mancha Based at a 7-room hotel in the town of Almiruete (about an hour from Madrid), in the heart of the Sierra Norte Natural Park. The herbs and vegetables are plucked its own garden, and it sources its meats locally, artisan cheeses from La Alcarria, and a wine list only from Guadalajara. It is highly regarded for its fresh-cooking as well as traditional dishes like Sierra style migas – fried breadcrumbs with egg, bacon and village chorizo. Enjoy it all from the terrace with views of the natural park. elhuertodelabuelo.com/restaurante Casa Vergara 1948, The Basque Country This pintxos bar in San Sebastian’s old town specialises in cod, including cod cheeks and bacalao, but diners can expect the pintxos classics here too such as tortilla and jamón Iberico. The vibe, especially on Friday and Saturday nights is buzzy and the staff, in fashionable white shirts and black aprons, are ebullient and efficient, pouring local cider and wine from a height while diners choose from the buffet along the bar. The joy of pintxos here is that everyone eats together - old, young, tourists and locals. Pintxos costs from €2.50 per plate.   grupogarrancho.com Tapas in Green Spain is known as ' pintxos'. Photos: Christopher Willan/Greentraveller Casa Cofiño , Caviedes, Cantabria In the small hillside town of Caviedes, Case Cofiño specialises in traditional home made dishes using local products - the most famous here are the cocido montañes, or mountain stew, and the albóndigas, or meatballs. The former comes with beans, kale, chorizo and morcilla sausage and the latter, the size of tennis balls, is served with chipped potatoes. There is a delicatessen on site for those who want to leave with a souvenir of Cantabrian produce. If you have room for dessert, the arroz con leche is a local specialty, with anise and cinnamon on top, or the cheesecake is a popular option. There is a broad wine selection and the prices are reasonable - so expect that you might have to wait for a table during peak season, but it is worth it.   facebook.com/pages/Casa-Cofi Watch our video of Green Spain: The Green Spot, Barcelona, Catalonia A hip, fashionable vegetarian restaurant in Port Vell (near the harbour and beaches), which bills itself as "Veggie for veggies, Veggie for non veggies", serving beautifully produced salads (such as kale and quinoa salad with cherry tomatoes, hazelnuts and white miso vinaigrette), soups, pizza and pasta, and a range of international food, including Thai curries and Mexican, in a smart decor of oak panels and soft fabrics. It has replaced single-use plastic with biodegradable and longer-lasting materials and has produced a 50- page sustainability report for its continuing efforts to reduce its impact on the environment. grupotragaluz.com/restaurantes/the-green-spot Restaurant El Fai, Lleida Pyrenees, Catalonia A family-owned restaurant in Taüll in the Lleida Pyrenees, in the heart of the Boí Valley known for World Heritage Romanesque churches – El Fai overlooks the Romanesque church of St Climent de Taüll, declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 2000, along with Sta Maria de Taüll, St Joan de Boí, Sta Eulàlia d'Erill la Vall , St Feliu de Barruera, the Nativity and St Quirc de Durro and the Assumption of Cóll. It is also close to the entrance to the Aigüestortes and Estany de Sant Maurici National Park, the only National Park in Catalonia, and it is 9 km from the ski resort of Boí Taül – the highest ski resort in the Pyrenees at 2751m, with with 45km of skiing . restaurantelfai.com Restaurant Er Occitan, Val d’Aran, Catalonia High in the Pyrenees, the Val d’Aran is a unique enclave with its own language (Aranese, related to the Occitan dialects spoken in south-west France), customs and culinary traditions. At this fine-dining restaurant, head chef Marcos Pedarròs Delaurens plays with those traditions, and the ideals of the slow food movement, to create inventive haute cuisine of an exceptional quality. eroccitan.com Watch our video of summer in Catalonia: Jamones Muñoz, Las Alpujarras As Paul Bloomfield writes in our Green Traveller's Guide to Catalonia , "it has to be said that a dried ham is a curious-looking thing – with its hoof and greyish-tinged side, it doesn’t have the most appetising appearance". Yet when sliced tissue-thin, a fine jamon can be among the most delectable morsels in Andalucia. The best are produced in the dry air of the high-altitude villages of the Sierra Nevada; Trevélez, the loftiest town in Las Alpujarras, is renowned for the output of its 20 or so producers. But in the village of Yegen is a small artisan dryer, Jamones Muñoz, where you can learn how the hams are prepared and dried, as well as enjoying a tasting session of the chorizo, longaniza, lomo and other delectables. There’s a cute shop selling crafts, jams, chocolates and other goodies, too. jamonesmunoz.com   Restaurante La Fragua, Las Alpujarras In the picturesque white Andalusian village of Trevélez, this restaurant of the hotel of the same name (there are in fact two accommodations which share a swimming pool) focuses on typical dishes of Las Alpujarras and the wider Mediterranean, drawing on produce from its own organic garden. Try the blacksmith’s eggs (casserole of sausage, ham and egg, baked with cheese), Moorish lamb roasted with herbs, almond and dried fruit, or whole partridge cooked with onions, carrots, peppers, nuts and garlic. Also serves a great version of the classic Granada dish of remojon , essentially a salad of oranges and salt cod. There’s an attractive terrace for dining al fresco on warm days with views of the valley below. hotellafragua.com   Green Traveller's video of Spain Cas Gasi, Ibiza, Balearic Islands 2024 is the 25th year of the beautiful estate of Cas Gasi, set on four hectares of pine forests, orange and olive groves, almond, fig and carob trees in the centre of the island. The farm-to-table 'More' restaurant of this small boutique hotel draw upon organic, wholesome ingredients to create daily changing menus to reflect the local larder. Dishes include fish of the day, and specialties such as home made ricotta Agnolotti, Terraviva chicken, beef dishes, and vegan ice-cream. The farm practices no-dig farming producing high quality vegetables, fruits and herbs, describing itself as "‘not just a restaurant; it is a celebration of this island’s lush landscapes and rich culinary heritage... it’s about cultivating gratitude, sustainability, and a deeper appreciation for the natural world". casgasi.com/gastronomy A Mi Manera, Formentera, Balearic Islands The menu may sound international at this upmarket garden restaurant in the centre of the island but many of the ingredients are as local as you can get; seasonal vegetables and herbs are grown organically and served straight from plot to plate while meat and fish are sourced from trusted local suppliers. With tables set up within and around the vegetable garden, it’s an atmospheric spot for dinner al fresco. Typical dishes include ricotta-stuffed courgettes, spaghetti with cherry tomatoes and burrata and Formentera ceviche with celery and spring onion, marinated in orange and tomato. amimaneraformentera.com   Natural Kitchen, Mallorca, Balearic Islands A breakfast and lunch diner on Plaça de l'Olivar in the centre of Palma, which focuses on organic food sourced from small producers and organic drinks, including organic coffee, infusions and juices. Lunch includes vegan burgers and vegetable lasagne, and a range of select-your-own salads from a range of ingredients, including eggplants, red peppers, raw fennel with orange, and fresh spinach. naturalkitchenpalma.com Restaurante Hespérides, Teguise, Lanzarote, Canary Islands In Teguise in the eastern central part of the island, Restaurante Hespérides specialists in organic food from local suppliers, serving both traditional and what it describes as "gastronomic innovations', from goat cheese or pumpkin croquettes to vegetarian skewers and smoked tofu, including vegetarian and gluten-free options.   restaurantehesperides.blogspot.com Laguna Nivaria, Tenerife, Canary Islands From traditional Canarian stews to tasty home-made cheese, Tenerife offers a range of gastronomical delights whatever your budget. At Laguna Nivaria (within a mansion that dates back to the 16th Century) in historical centre of San Cristóbal de La Laguna – a UNESCO World Heritage Site – the à la carte dishes are made with 100% organic eggs, fruits and vegetables (including bananas, papaya, strawberries, mangos, oranges, avocados, Barbados cherries, and pineapples) from its 50,000 square metre farm, La Vizcaína, located 15 minutes away in the Valley of Guerra. Open   every   day   for   lunch   and   dinner.   lagunanivaria.com/en/philosophy == For nearby places to stay, visitor attractions and activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Spain

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Green Spain , we've picked out a selection of places to stay in Galicia, Asturias, Cantabria and the Basque Country. Outside of the cities such as Bilbao and San Sebastian, accommodation across Green Spain tends to be mid to small scale, with very few resorts on the scale of the Costas. Much of the tourism is domestic and many of the Spanish tourists opt for self-catering apartments or houses. There are plenty of hotels and B&Bs for those who don’t wish to cater, but these are likely to be independents, rather than being booked as part of a package holiday. For those on a tight budget, the region has some superb value-for-money campsites, hostels and apartments. Below is a selection of places to stay throughout Green Spain. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Green Spain : Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places to stay in Green Spain Galicia Casa da Cabaza This bucolic farmhouse B&B lies on the shore of a lake 45 minutes drive from Lugo. Owners Sietske and Tariq have lovingly restored the main house and five ensuite bedrooms in the building across the courtyard. Period features such as wooden beams and thick stone walls remain while each rooms is unique with striking artwork and furniture made by local craftsmen. Guests are invited to wander the organic gardens, laze in hammocks or star gaze thanks to the light pollution-free skies. A vegetarian breakfast of homemade and locally sourced produce includes Galician cheese, yoghurt and honey, while a an evening meals of tapas, or ‘pinchos’ can be prepared if ordered in advance. casacabaza.com Asturias: Posada del Valle A family run hotel set in 18 acres of organic orchards, pasture and a vegetable garden that supply the restaurant with much of its produce. Guests are greeted by homemade apple juice and bread for breakfast, while in the evening the daily changing set menu includes a soup, salad, main course, dessert or cheese, much of it picked just hours before it is served, for E28 per person. The 12 bedrooms are ensuite and include features such as stone walls and windows that originate from the building’s past role as a priest’s farmhouse. It lies in the foothills of the Picos de Europa and is, as such, popular with walkers and bird watchers. Nearby towns are Cangas de Onis and Llanes. posadadelvalle.com Camping Tauran Agroturismo This family-run cliff-top campsite near the pretty harbour town of Luarca occupies a dramatic position on the wild Asturian coastline. The 100-or-so spaces include free camping, sites with electricity as well as spaces for motorhomes and caravans and bungalows. The log cabin-style bungalows sleep 2-6 people and have a kitchen including a fridge, toilet, shower and bed linen included. The site has its own smallholding boasting native Asturian animals including an Asturcon pony, Xalda sheep and Pita Pinta chicken. Other child-friendly activities include a playground, pool, sauna, table tennis, basketball, table football, and billiards. There is free wi-fi, a covered barbecue area and Taurán beach is a 200 metre amble downhill. The site runs on solar energy and is kept cool by the shade of the trees and breeze from the Cantabrian Sea. campingtauran.com EcoFarm Asturias This ‘glampsite’ may be off the grid but it is only 40 minutes drive from Oviedo and there’s no skimping on the luxury. There are three choices - the caravan that sleeps four overlooking wild woodland with a mini kitchen and composting loo and the yurt that sleeps five and has a simple field kitchen with a deck and hammock. Then, the cabana that sleeps up to six. It is a traditional rural building where animals would have slept below and the shepherd above. Water comes from a private spring and solar powered phone chargers and showers are available. Guests can self cater and order ahead for a veg box, eggs, potatoes, a fresh bunch of herbs, plus there’s barbecue facilities using home produced charcoal from the farm’s sweet chestnut coppice. Evening meals can be provided for E15 for adults, half price for kids, offering dishes such as chicken with olives, lemon, honey, ginger and coriander. ecofarmasturias.org Cantabria: La Casa de las Chimeneas Owners Tony and Lucia have converted a rustic farmstead into a hamlet of pretty apartments in the tiny village of Tudes in the Pico de Europa. The eight apartments, once pigsties and hen houses, have one, two or three bedrooms and have 14 chimneys between them, giving the house its name. All have kitchens, televisions, wood burning stove and wifi. There’s a shaded terrace, striking infinity pool with mountain views and bar called La Taberna del Ingles which offers light meals and snacks. Potes is only ten minutes away with its old town and Monday market. lacasadelaschimeneas.es Casa Zalama When Casa Zalama’s six bedrooms are full, its occupants increase the population of the village, San Pelayo, by 50%. This is countryside life in the slow and peaceful lane, yet Santander and Bilbao are just an hour’s drive away. The house is rustic and traditional and surrounded by a pretty garden with plenty of spots to unwind. There is also a self catering cottage that sleeps four with its own kitchen and garden area. Breakfast and dinner is home cooked and much of it homegrown including traditional rustic Spanish dishes, perfect for the surroundings - antique reclaimed furniture, baskets, woodwork hanging on thick stone walls. casazalama.es Basque Country: Eco Hotel Mundaka Mundaka is a world famous surf destination thanks to its left-breaking wave, considered the finest in Europe in its category, and reaching up to four metres high. Mundaka also boasts a pretty harbour and is in the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve, which includes beaches, forests, rivers and islands. The Eco Hotel is in the centre of town and 300 metres from the beach. It has simple but bright ensuite 19 single, double or triple rooms and stands strongly by ecological principles including solar power, smart water use and minimal use of chemicals. It has a dining room offering a locally sourced breakfast, a surf school and gelateria in season. hotelmundaka.com Ea Astei Once a collection of farm buildings, the 15th century farmhouse, adjoining granary and raised barn have been converted into two rustic but luxurious self catering apartments and a cabin together with two striking modern apartments in wood and glass. The five units sleep between two and six people and have well equipped kitchens, heating, wifi and linen. There is a swimming pool, sauna, hot tub, garden and barbecue area. The bucolic surroundings include eucalyptus forests and beaches 10km away. And Guernica, of Picasso fame, has lots of restaurants and an excellent market and is 15 minute’s drive. en.astei.net Marques de Riscal This five star hotel is part of the extraordinary ‘City of Wine’ complex designed by Frank Gehry. The contorted metal facade of this building gleams pink and silver in such flowing folds that the metal looks like twists of ribbon. It houses the cellars, wine tasting rooms, two restaurants, avcafe, shop, spa and hotel with 43 bedrooms and suites. Many rooms have balconies and all have views of the combed rows of vines or the terracotta roofs of the pretty village of Elciego. marriott.com/hotels/travel/biolc-hotel-marques-de-riscal-a-luxury-collection-hotel-elciego For nearby places to eat, visitor attractions and activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Green Spain

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Nouvelle-Aquitaine , Richard Hammond and Nicola Forsyth reconnect with nature by train, bike and foot on a journey around southwest France Grapes: PatrickHutter//iStock; Cycling on La Flow Vélo: Nicola Forsyth; Jambon de Somglier: MargaretClavell/iStock; Sunset at La Cité du Vin: Cecile Marlier; Chateau de Beynac: Alban_Gilbert; Vineyard: alxpin/iStock Cycling out of postcard-perfect Sarlat, in Nouvelle-Aquitaine, it felt less like leaving the bustle of a French market town behind and more like entering a calm new world. Turning off the main road onto a dedicated cycle path, the sights and sounds of tourist-filled pavements faded out, replaced instead with a quiet, single-track cycle lane and a vision of brimstone butterflies chasing each other, like tiny beams of sunlight, across the tree-lined trail. We were pedalling electric bikes along La Flow Vélo. This new 350km greenway runs from the Dordogne to the Atlantic coast, passing through the Perigord Limousin Regional National Park and Angouleme, along the Charente River and through the towns of Cognac, Saintes and Rochefort along the way. Trying out a provisional 20km section of the trail, we ventured from Sarlat to Domaine St Amand, a glamping site in the Périgord. Watch our video of our trip to Nouvelle-Aquitaine: Close to the medieval village of Saint-Amand-de-Coly (officially one of France’s Most Beautiful Villages and home to a spectacular fortified abbey), Domaine St Amand is managed by a dynamic young couple, Jeanne and Baptiste. A grocery and outdoor pool sit beside the restored farmhouse at its heart while 50 two-bedroom wooden cabins are spaced out scenically among fields of wildflowers and newly planted trees. Beautifully crafted with restful taupe and timber interiors, chic ensuite bathrooms, private kitchens and covered terraces, the cabins make a peaceful pitstop along the trail. Especially if, like us, you pick up one of Jeanne’s homemade coq au vin or happen to visit on a night when the wood-fired pizza oven is being fired up. Which is exactly what Jeanne was hoping to create when she and Baptiste designed the site. Travellers are increasingly seeking stays that put sustainability centre-stage, she said, and allow them to re-connect with nature. Sitting on the terrace of our cabin, the sunset glowing through a chilled glass of local white, it wasn’t so hard to imagine how you might help them do that. But can you travel sustainably and connect with nature in the city? Earlier in the week we’d put this to the test by travelling to southwest France from the UK by train, an easy hop that saw us catch a Eurostar from London to Paris and then a high-speed TGV for the two-hour onward connection to Bordeaux. Our first stop here was the FirstName Bordeaux hotel in the Mériadeck neighbourhood. Between the 1960s and the 1980s this neglected corner of the city became a testing ground for some of the brightest modern architects of the time. Among the showstoppers they created was a concrete colossus with striking curvilinear balconies designed by Arretche-Karasinki and Marcel Nouviale for French insurance company Allianz. A super-sized example of upcycling, the building was recently repurposed as a hotel. Inside its brutalist exterior hides a serene, colourful space that welcomes guests in with clever lighting, lounge-on-me seating, a communal kitchen (so no need for energy intensive mini bars) and natural materials (each room has a bag of charcoal to purify the air). The entrance to Firstname Bordeaux; bag of charcoal that's in every room to purify the air Photos: Richard Hammond The hotel’s snooze-friendly seating may have been calling but instead we headed out on a tour of the city on bikes supplied by neighbouring Esprit Cycles. Local guide, Véronique Baggio, proved impressively adept at talking while pedalling, pointing out not just Bordeaux’s spectacular neoclassical architecture but also some of the city’s 1,182 kilometres cycling trails, 1,425 kilometres hiking paths and numerous green spaces as we went. Such elements helped the city earn a French Innovative & Sustainable Destination label in 2023. As did an integrated public transport system that includes trams, buses, and river shuttles. The city’s commitment to sustainability isn’t just limited its transport system, we discovered; many of Bordeaux’s visitor attractions have green technologies embedded within their operations, including the impressive Cité du Vin in Les Bassins à Flot, a former industrial and port area that has been transformed into an ‘eco district’. Nicola's visit to Cité du Vin provided her with a brilliantly overview of wines from across the world. Photo: Richard Hammond The museum, which provides a brilliantly sensory overview of wines from across the world, as well as the region’s renowned vineyards, has an innovative bioclimatic design that means 70% of its energy needs are met by local and green energy sources. Food is another obvious way in which visitors can make easy sustainable choices. From food halls like Les Halles de Bacalan, where you can find stalls bursting with regional cheeses, local wines and warm-from-the-oven pastries, to fine dining restaurants like Casa Gaia, Zéphirine, and Vivants, with their focus on fabulous seasonal produce. Also attracting carbon-conscious foodies is the Darwin Ecosysteme. In the city’s Bastide district, this former military barracks is now a co-working and cultural hub, restored using reclaimed materials and furnished with vintage finds. A multipurpose base for creatives, skateboarders, coffee nerds, music lovers and shoppers (you’ll find eco-minded brands such as Patagonia and Veja there) it’s also home to the largest organic bistro-dining hall in Europe, with a community garden growing seasonal greens to boot. The edgy creativity at Darwin Ecosystem. Photos: Richard Hammond From here, we ventured out of the city on a series of trips by train. At Le Buisson-de-Cadouin we walked a six-kilometre section of the Chemin d’Amadour long-distance hiking route to the spectacular World Heritage Site of the 1,000 year-old Abbey of Cadouin. The magnificent Abbey of Cadouin. Photos: Richard Hammond Further afield in Brive, we stayed overnight at Hotel La Réserve, an impressive renovated building adjacent to a small park at Germain Auboiroux and a short ten-minute walk from the railway station, and had lunch in Halle Gaillarde – a showcase for local producers, including bakers, butchers and cheesemakers. From Brive, we cycled a couple of hours south-east to Collonges La Rouge – another of the Most Beautiful Villages in France – to walk among its maze of medieval streets and admire the 25 turrets that soar skywards from the village’s graceful sandstone buildings. You're beholden to an unusual palette: the red of the sandstone combined with the ochre-colored and blue-gray of the slate and the green of the vines clinging to the walls. Then, just 30 minutes by train from Bordeaux, in Saint-Émilion, we visited the Couvent des Jacobins. Medieval Saint-Émilion is known for its 2,000-year history of winemaking and, while the Couvent doesn’t stretch back quite as far as the beginning, vines have been painstakingly tended here for almost seven centuries. Now organically cultivated, this sophisticated operation offers a fascinating insight into both the culture’s deep, soil-rooted history, and into the challenges and opportunities of a sustainable future. Close by geographically yet far apart in terms of scale, the Union de Producteurs de Saint-Émilion support some 145 winegrowers across 600 hectares of vines. Representing more than 12% of the entire Saint-Émilion AOC, it is a sustainable cooperative known largely, like so many local producers, for its Merlot; its wines can be tasted by the glass straight from the co-operative’s wine truck at local producers’ and farmers’ markets. Wine-tasting at the Union de Producteurs de Saint-Émilion, which supports 145 winegrowers. Photos left and centre: Richard Hammond; right: aixpin/iStock Back in Bordeaux, a highlight was a circular walk on the GR Bordeaux Métropole in the company of local guide Dominique Busnel. The first urban Grande Randonnée (GR), or long-distance hiking trail, in France, the route winds through seventeen of the territory's 28 municipalities along its 160km length. Peppered along its path are 11 idiosyncratic suburban shelters where you can pre-book, for free, to stay overnight. Dominique took us to show us round one of them, The Cloud. Signage on GR Bordeaux Métropole; The Cloud shelter; map showing location of the other shelters Photos: Richard Hammond Unlike our cabin at Domaine St Amand, this was no classic woodsman’s shack, however. Perched in the Ermitage Park, by the wooded shore of a lake, this architectural folly looks like a cartoon drawing of a cloud, albeit enormous and made not of water vapour but of plywood. A nod to utopian architecture it was an apt place to end our time in Bordeaux, allowing us to pass the afternoon to a lullaby of gently croaking frogs and passing terrapins. Is it possible to connect with nature in the city? I think we had our answer. == Disclosure: Richard Hammond and Nicola Forsyth were guests of Nouvelle-Aquitaine Tourism and Atout France. They had full editorial control of the review, which is written in their own words based on their experience of visiting Nouvelle-Aquitaine in 2024. All opinions are the authors’ own.

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Nouvelle-Aquitaine , here's our pick out of sights of interest and other visitor attractions across this culturally rich part of southwest France. Left to right: Sarlat: Proformabooks/iStock; sunset at La Cité du Vin: Cecile Marlier; The village of Beynac: RolfSt/iStock; Lascaux: Richard Hammond; Darwin Ecosystem: Richard Hammond; Colonges la Rouge: Xantana\iStock; Cadouin Abbey: Richard Hammond; Vineyard in Saint Emilion: alxpin/iStock; Cloitre-de-Cadouin: Richard Hammond. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Nouvelle-Aquitaine :  Green = Places to stay   Blue = Food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Darwin, Bordeaux Billed as "economically innovative and ecologically responsible", this former military barracks on an urban wasteland in the Bastide district on Bordeaux's right bank is now many things: a co-working hub for creatives, a visitor attraction, a shopping precinct (including eco-minded brands such as Patagonia and Veja) an event space, and activity centre that includes the 3rd largest indoor skatepark in France. It's also home to the largest organic bistro-dining hall in Europe, selling produce from over 300 local producers, including with options for vegetarians and vegans in ample supply, and its own community garden growing seasonal greens. The entire site is run with a deep commitment to the environment with a range of low energy and renewable solutions that mean it consumes three times less than the average equivalent urban site elsewhere in France. But it's so much more than an eco showcase, it lives and breathes innovation and there's an edge to the art – don't miss the 'street art and strolling' section - you'll find it hard to leave. darwin.camp The many faces of the Darwin Ecosystem. Photos: Richard Hammond Cité du Vin, Bordeaux The city's foremost celebration of wine, is not just a celebration of Bordeaux wines but of wine-making worldwide - everything from ancient and modern history and geography to heritage, the environment and gastronomy. Throughout the year there are temporary exhibitions about particular aspects of wine (in 2024, there's a one-hour tasting tour of the four seasons where a sommelier will treat you to 4 wines from around the world), while the main permanent exhibition is an immersive sensory experience that leads you through a series of themed rooms, including "The vine-grower's year", "Vineyards of the world", "Wine trends", "Terroirs of the world", "The buffet of the five senses". You'll be provided with a personal digital guide that facilitates realtime interaction with the exhibits. The visit lasts about 2-3 hours though you could easily while away an entire day here. However long you spend in this fabulous exhibition, by the end you'll likely be gasping for a drink so head up to the Belvedere on the 8th floor for a glass of wine or grape juice, and admire the expansive view of the city. The museum is also committed to being a green venue and has installed an innovative bioclimatic design that means 70% of its energy needs are met by local and green energy sources. laciteduvin.com/fr La Cité du Vin. Top left: Sunset, Cecile Marlier. Other photos: Richard Hammond Couvent des Jacobins, Saint Emilion Just 30 minutes by train from Bordeaux, medieval Saint Émilion (a UNESCO World Heritage City) is known for its 2,000-year history of winemaking. Pride of place in the centre of the town is Couvent des Jacobins where wine has been painstakingly tended here for over seven hundred years - from the Jacobian Friars to the Jean and Joinaud families. Now organically cultivated (certified by ECOCERT France since September 2020), this sophisticated operation offers a fascinating insight into both the culture’s deep, soil-rooted history, and into the challenges and opportunities of a sustainable future. Tours (which include tastings) run all week from May to October and from Monday to Friday from November to April. couvent-jacobins-saint-emilion.com/en/ Cloitre-de-Cadouin, Dordogne Valley Regarded as a masterpiece of flamboyant Gothic Art, the 1,000 year old Cloitre-de-Cadouin in the village of Cadouin (between Sarlat and Bergerac in the heat of the Dordogne) is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that's on the route of the Camino de Santiago long distance pilgrimage walk. Founded in 1115 by Géraud de Salles and affiliated with the Cistercian order 4 years later, it was abandoned during the Hundred Years' War (1337-1453), and the cloister was rebuilt at the end of the 15th century. Although the monks ceased their activities in 1790, the abbey church and the Romanesque foundations of the 12th-century buildings remain, yet it is the finely carved columns and elegant vaults of the cloister that attracts people from all over the world. Choose from a range of tours, including a self-guided option and a combined ticket to the nearby Biron Castle where there's a spectacular view of the Périgord, Quercy and Agenais. Educational workshops and lectures are held on Saturdays. cloitre-cadouin.fr Marvelling at the finely carved columns & elegant vaults of the 1,000 year-old Cloitre-de-Cadouin. Photos: Richard Hammond Sarlat, Dordogne Valley You may recognise the medieval town of Sarlat, with its historic monuments of pale stone and lauze roofs, from the many famous films that have used it as a location, such as Chocolat , The Musketeer , and The Duellists . Packed with well-preserved pavement cafes, attractive squares, cobbled streets, bourgeois homes of the Renaissance, and a large Benedictine Abbey and Cathédrale Saint-Sacerdos, it's a picture-postcard place that is still a thriving market town. Throughout the year, there's a range of events tasting and celebrating the region's gastronomy, such as its famous goose and truffle festivals, as well as an annual film festival and an increasingly popular Christmas market. Nearby in the Dordogne valley, are the châteaux of Beynac and Castelnaud, as well as La Roque Gageac, one of the “France’s Most Beautiful Villages” (see photos below). sarlat-tourisme.com Left to right: Sarlat: Proformabooks/iStock; The village of Roque Gageac: RolfSt/iStock; The village of Beynac: RolfSt/iStock Lascaux IV, Montignac, Dordogne Valley A world-class treasure trove of cave art. Created in 2016, it's a replica of the entire original Lascaux cave (using cutting edge technology and a considerable amount of scientific research) that was discovered in Montignac by four teenagers in 1940. Packed with cave art dating back 20,000 years, it's considered one of the most important archeological finds of the 20th Century. At Lascaux IV you get a real sense of what the cave is like and the challenges and expertise of the prehistory artists. After a tour of this breathtaking site, you can then visit a workshop, theatre, cinema and gallery all of which give further insight into this fascinating discovery. It's called Lascaux IV because the original cave site (knows as Lascaux) is now permanently closed to the public to protect it; Lascaux II, which is just 200m from the original cave, was the first replica, inaugurated in 1983, but doesn't replicate all of the cave and is only open April to November, Lascaux III is a nomadic exhibition of the site that is taken around the world telling the story of the cave art. lascaux.fr/en Admiring the cave art and smart modern entrance at Lascaux IV; Photos: Richard Hammond La Rhune Mountain Railway, Pays Basque A vintage cogwheel train (equipped with an electric motor) at the western end of the Pyrenees that has been transporting passengers up the mountain since 1924. Departing from the town of Sare, officially one of the "most beautiful villages in France, 10km from Saint Jean de Luz, it travels up to 905m high In just 35 minutes for outstanding views of the Atlantic Ocean and the Pyrenees mountains. En route, keep an eye out for small wild rural ponies known as 'pottoks', which live mainly in the Basque Country, as well as carpets of Dorsera moss that grow on the mountainside, Manech ewes and griffon vultures, the symbolic birds of prey of the Pyrenean range. rhune.com and tourisme64.com Saintes A city famed for its historical art, 25 miles to the west of Cognac on the banks of the Charente River, Saintes is a celebration of 2,000 years of history. The most notable sights are the Arch of Germanicus, built in 18-19 AD, it's regarded as one of the most beautiful Gallo-Roman vestiges, the Saint-Eutrope Basilica that's a masterpiece of Romanesque art, the Gallo-Roman amphitheatre, built between 4 and 50 AD (one of the oldest in all of Gaul), and the city centre Abbaye aux Dames that's now a music venue that hosts a variety of festivals. Popular in the height of summer, go in autumn to see the city's trees turn brilliants shades, plus there are over 100 hectares of protected floodplains to the east of the river at Prairie de la Palu, just a few minutes walk from Place Bassompierre. en.saintes-tourisme.fr Limoges Known for its porcelain (on display at the Musée national Adrien Dubouché), Limoges is steeped in art and history. The best way to familiarise yourself quickly with this historic city on the banks of the Vienne River is to join one of two circular tours devised by the Villes d'Art et d'Histoire de la city ​​of Limoges Métropole. The Upper Town route (two and a half hours) visits the Saint-Martial Abbey and Viscount's Castle, the church of Saint Pierre du Queyroix, the picturesque private courtyard of the temple, and the fountain square of the bars, while the route from the cathedral district (known as Cité) to the station district (two hours) begins at the majestic Saint-Étienne Cathedral and visits a range of other historic places, including the Beaux Arts Museum, the Bishop's Garden, and the Saint-Étienne Bridge, built in 13th Century, is on the route of the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage. destination-limoges.com Dune du Pilat, Atlantic Coast The towering Dune du Pilar is the mother of all dunes – made up of 60 million cubic metres of sand, about 100 metres high, 600m wide and 3,000m long, between a forest and the Atlantic, it's the highest in Europe. Part of a 6,875 hectare protected area at the southern entrance to the Bassin d'Arcachon, it's constantly evolving, moving up to 5 metres towards the forest in high winds. It's located in La Teste-de-Buch a couple of miles outside Archacon – entrance if free if you arrive on foot, by bike or on the local bus (€1 each way), otherwise there's a €6 charge for parking per vehicle for every four hours. Below is a video showing what this splendid natural colossus is like all year round. ladunedupilat.com/en/ Montagnes Béarnaises, Pyrénées Immerse yourself in the thriving rural mountain way of life of the three valleys of the Bearn Pyrenees: Vallée d’Ossau, Vallée d’Aspe, and Vallée de Barétous that are anchored by the town of Oloron. The Ossau valley is home to the ski resorts of Gourette and Artouste as well as the Col d'Aubisque and the Bious Artigues lake; the Aspe valley is the place to go for cross-country skiing in winter while in the summer the Maison de Parc National des Pyrénées is popular with families, so too is the Artouste train – Europe's highest tourist train. The Barétous valley is also popular for cross-country skiing but also for snowshoeing while in the summer there's caving at La Verna. Through the Bearn Pyrenees there are food markets packed with a range of local cheeses and other local produce; traditional dishes include Garbure, a soup of potatoes, cabbages, beans, leeks, and other fresh vegetables. tourisme64.com Poitiers, Futuroscope, and Marais Poitevin Just 1 hour 15 minutes from Paris, Poitiers is the gateway to Nouvelle-Aquitaine from the French capital. Many important figures spent time here, including Eleanor of Aquitaine, Joan of Arc, and René Descartes. Perhaps the most famous of all the historical buildings in the city (there are over 80 listed buildings) are The Palace of the Counts of Poitou and the church of Notre-Dame-la-Grande, but there are many more modern day attractions that are well worth a visit, including the art nouveaux of La Grande Poste and the gardens of Puygarreau. Just 20 minutes by bus from Poitiers (or on a direct train line from Paris) is the renowned amusement park Futurscope, but if you're able to venture further to get closer to nature, head to the enormous Marais Poitevin wetland natural reserve between the city of Niort and the Atlantic Coast. Also known as 'Green Venice', it's set it's stall out to attract slow travellers looking to go canal boating, bird watching, hiking, and cycling. visitpoitiers.fr | futuroscope.com | pnr.parc-marais-poitevin.fr == For nearby places to stay, local food and drink, and low impact outdoor adventure activities, see Green Traveller's Guide to Nouvelle-Aquitaine

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Nouvelle-Aquitaine , here's our pick of places to eat across this fascinating part of southwest France. Photos: Richard Hammond Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Nouvelle-Aquitaine :  Green = Places to stay   Blue = Food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Casa Gaia, 16 bis rue Latour, Bordeaux A stylish city centre restaurant that focuses on tapas and salads made from seasonal organic ingredients, so expect peas in spring, tomatoes in summer, squash in the autumn and chestnuts in winter. Vegetables, meats and fish are grilled and roasted over a beech wood fire and dishes are served in a large convivial open plan room. It has a 'producers charter', which sets out its policy regarding sourcing its food ethically from artisanal suppliers "who respect the principles of agroecology, living soils, and promote biodiversity", highlighting food diversity, including old varieties and rustic breeds. Its website features nine such suppliers, telling the stories of the people behind the products. Exemplary. casagaia.fr/ Three of the seasonal dishes we ate at Casa Gaia. Photo: Richard Hammond Zéphirine, 62, rue Abbé de l’Epée, Bordeaux Tucked away on a side street a stone's throw from Place Gabetta in the heart of downtown Bordeaux, Zéphirine is a Michelin-starred intimate urban diner (the owners call it an 'urban inn'), open for lunch and a more elaborate dinner, with an open kitchen, a small patio terrace for those wishing to dine outside, and even a small delicatessen so guests can take away a few of the delicacies. There's single short menu: you share starters, choose from three meat, fish or vegetarian dishes then choose from a selection of deserts. It's run by an experienced trio of Romain Corbière (who spent 12 years under the tutelage of Alain Ducasse and was given the prestigious job of opening the Alain Ducasse Cooking School in Paris), his sister Marie-Zéphirine and her husband Bertrand Arnauld. 'Zephrine' is their great-great-grandfather's name, so expect age-old recipes conjured with refined expertise; it's outstanding value. zephirine.fr The menu of the day and two sumptious desserts we ate at the Michellin-starred Zéphirine . Photos: Richard Hammond Le Cent 33, 133 rue du Jardin Public, Bordeaux Close to the Museum of Wine and Trade in the centre of the city, Le Cent 33 is the first restaurant in Aquitaine to be given the EcoTable label (the French eco label for environmentally friendly restaurants) who awarded it two macarons for its 'advanced approach', and a Green Food Ambassador , the focus at this chic bistro-style restaurant is on "seasonal, mostly local and organic" food. The aromatic herbs, red fruits, some vegetables come from its own greenhouse and vegetable garden 'Potager', five minutes from the restaurant. The Michelin star is thanks to Chef Fabien Beaufour (previous restaurants include Anne-Sophie Pic in Valence, Patrick Henriroux in Vienne, and New York's Eleven Madison Park) who aims to reflect the seasons "inspired by tradition French cuisine, twisted by the chef's international experiences". A feature of the restaurant is that it uses a robatayaki wood fire pit to prepare some of the dishes. Choose wine from a list of 500 wines, 90% of which is oriented toward organic, biodynamic and natural wines from both large well-know estates to new winegrowers. cent33.com/ Vivants, 13 rue des Bahutiers, Bordeaux The wooden-framed glass windows of the facade might suggest a traditional, formal atmosphere at this Michelin-starred restaurant, but inside, Vivants is laid back and welcoming. The elaborately decorated dishes – the attention to detail is exceptional – are the hallmark of chef Tanguy Laviale, previously of Garopapilles who also runs the show at the popular Michelin-starred Ressources restaurant, close to Place Tourny. At Vivants, there are three menus of 3, 4, and 5 dishes – expect dishes such as scallops with persimmon and vegetarian tortelli – and choose from a comprehensive list of over 1,000 wines, thankfully a helpful sommelier is on hand to help you pair your selection with your food. restaurantvivants.com Restaurant l’Entrepote, 5 rue Albéric Cahuet , 24200 Sarlat la Canéda, The Dordogne Valley Tucked away in a quiet corner of this popular village, just off the Place de la République, Restaurant l'Entrepote is a cosy restaurant with exposed stone walls and a outdoor terrace in a charming, timeless courtyard, serving regional cuisine using fresh market ingredients. There are classic dishes such as goats cheese salad, carpaccio, and magret de canard, but also variations such as pork tacos, calamari, vegetarian tartelette, and pork in a morille mushroom cream sauce. facebook.com/p/Restaurant-LEntrep%C3%B4te-100063596772091/ Chez Paulo, rue Saint Gregoire, Brive Choose between the characterful outdoor terrace or the cosy interior at this popular 4th generation run bistro (previously known as Les Frangins) in a quiet corner in the heart of Brive. The owner Paul works with many local farms and you can expect beautifully presented dishes, such as red tuna, Limousin beef rib chops, carpaccio and and exquisite rum baba – a soft cake in a delicious rum syrup, with full-course vegan options available. There are more than 200 wines to choose from drawing on Paul's extensive experience as sommelier in a Michelin-starred restaurant. chez-paulo-restaurant-brive.eatbu.com Café du Commerce, 1 rue des Halles, Biarritz A convivial brasserie in a large open plan diner that's part of the Les Halles marketplace in the centre of Biarritz. After browsing the small shops for seafood, cheese, cured meats, come here for coffee, tapas or gourmet French cuisine, including confit de canard, grilled squid, and mussels. The emphasis is on seasonal food using fresh, local products. cafeducommerce-biarritz.com Restaurant Arraina - La Table Marine, 39 Av du Commandant Passicot 64500 Ciboure A popular seafood and grilled fish restaurant on the promontory overlooking the bay of Saint Jean de Luz. Choose between the cosy interior or outdoor on the sunny terrace overlooking the harbour. There's a range of dishes such as oysters, shrimps, grilled prawns, crab salad, grilled squid, sole, and trout gravlax. arraina-latablemarine.fr La Belle Epoque, 25 rue d'Angoulême, Cognac Within the Hotel Heritage in the centre of Cognac, the elaborate cuisine of this warm, friendly restaurant matches the warm red, blue and purple tones of the neat belle epoque grandeur. Chef Aurélien Villard took over the running of the restaurant in 2024 with an aim to focus on artisanal and local products. Starters include artichoke hearts and oysters, while mains include seafood platters, beef, and fish from the local auction. In the summer, head outside to the patio for lunch or dinner among the century-old wisteria or recently renovated arcades. hotelheritage.fr/restaurant-la-belle-epoque Le Cheverny, 57 Avenue Baudin, Limoges A family run restaurant in the heat of Limoges that prides itself on seasonal regional flavours selected by chef Estelle Palard Kuhler. Choose from four to seven courses in the large main dining area for up to 100 or the light airy terrace pergola overlooking the railway. Dishes include flambéd shrimps, beef entrecôte, and marinated chicken. lecheverny.fr Restaurant Dyades - Domaine des Etangs, Le Bourg, Massignac The main elegant Michelin-starred restaurant on the magnificent sprawling a five-star chateaux estate of Domaine des Etangs. Seasonal produce is harvested 'farm to table' from the estate's 21,000 square foot certified organic garden and from local producers earning the restaurant two Ecotable awards – for its commitment to sustainable development and permaculture. A market lunch is available Monday to Saturday and non-resident guests are welcome for lunch and dinner in the splendour from Wednesday to Saturday. fr.aubergeresorts.com/domainedesetangs/dine La Cuisine du Cloître, rue des Allois, Limoges Within a 17th Century convent adjacent to the city's cathedral in the heart of the historic district of Limoges, Michelin-starred chef Guy Queroix (president of the Toques Blanches du Limousin and member of the Culinary College of France) has put market-fresh cuisine centre stage in this stunning restaurant mixing "tradition, innovation and seasonality" in a setting that combines wood, stone and contemporary decor. Among the choice of menus is a 'Return from the Market' midweek special (Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays), which celebrates fresh produce brought in to the kitchen directly from the city's main market, Halles de Limoges. la-cuisine-du-cloitre.fr Chez Flo restaurant, 9 rue Saint-Barthélémy, Parentis-en-Born Billed as a 'bistronomic' restaurant, Chez Flo's owners say their role is "to highlight the work of our producer partners", many of which it lists on it website, including La Bruyere Farm, The Gardens of Craoueyres, Oleanders, and Prukibio. Its lunch dishes mainly contain local and seasonal products, and it changes its menu each month to reflect the fruits of the relevant time of year: "When we develop dishes, we tell a story; the story of Women and Men producers, farmers, fishermen, winegrowers, friends and all passionate people...we are convinced that this sensitivity is felt on the plate! chezfloparentis.fr/ Les Amants du Marché, 1 rue Bourbaki, Pau A vegan and vegetarian organic restaurant serving dishes with ingredients sourced from the nearby organic market, such as smoked tofu aranchini, moussaka and green bean pies with peppers, caramelised onions, pesto and raw vegetables. Adjacent to the restaurant is its own ethical shop, "Otherwise", selling designer items, including clothes, toys, jewellery, and cosmetics made from recycled materials or organic and raw materials. lesamantsdumarche.fr == For nearby characterful places to stay, sights of interest and outdoor adventure activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Nouvelle-Aquitaine

Guyana’s sustainable accommodation options are never less than immersive, enfolding guests in this spectacular country’s natural and cultural beauty. Lodges are typically built with natural materials and in traditional style, modest in size – most offer just half a dozen or so comfortable rooms or cabins – but offering big experiences. You might lie down amid the pristine rainforest of Iwokrama, waking to the calls of red howler monkeys, or on the banks of the mighty Essequibo River, ripe for relaxation or watersports. Staying in the wide Rupununi region, you could saddle up on a working cattle ranch or thrill to the antics of giant river otters. Best of all, you’ll meet and learn from indigenous communities, keen to share a deep knowledge of their homeland’s rich biodiversity and traditions. Arrowpoint Nature Resort Named after the giant arrow trees that thrive in the surrounding forest, Arrowpoint Nature Resort provides a perfect toe-dipping glimpse into the pristine, unmistakable beauty of Guyana. It takes about 45 minutes by road from Georgetown to the Timehri dock, then 60 minutes by boat along the Kamuni Creek, passing overhanging jungle vegetation that eventually gives way to the wide open savannah, to reach the Indigenous community of Santa Aratak. Most of the staff at the resort, which nests comfortably within these ancestral lands on the banks of Kamuni Creek, is from the Arawak community. The indigenous people are eager to welcome travellers and share their culture and traditions through fun activities that can be enjoyed on a day or overnight trip – such as canoeing, spear-fishing, forest-hiking and wildlife-spotting (look out, especially, for crimson topaz hummingbird), visit Indigenous homes and try your hand at making delicious cassava bread. The resort itself – part solar-powered – has a handful of rustic cabins, plus a communal thatched lodge and a riverside lounge. Dinner is usually served on the beach, by the light of flaming torches and fireflies. 94-95 Duke Street, Kingston, Georgetown; +592 231 7220; facebook.com/ArrowPointResort Atta Rainforest Lodge Tucked deep inside the Iwokrama Rainforest Reserve, one of the least-spoiled tracts of jungle left in the world, is Atta Rainforest Lodge. Just eight rustic rooms, with solar-generated electricity and cool open-air showers, stand in a forest clearing, miles from anywhere but only a short walk from the Iwokrama Canopy Walkway. This series of suspended bridges, up to 30 metres above the forest floor, takes you high into the treetops; guests at Atta can ascend for the choruses at dawn and dusk. The lodge also has glorious gardens, where hummingbirds zip about and tapir come to feed, as well as a network of well-maintained trails in the surrounding forest that might reward with sightings of other species, even elusive jaguar. And, at the end of each day, savour a delicious dinner: indigenous-influenced fresh-cooked meals, made from local produce, served under the stars. 141 Fourth Street, Campbellville, Georgetown; +592 226 2085; iwokramacanopywalkway.com Baganara Island Resort And relax… This private retreat – on one of the 365 isles scattered along the mighty Essequibo River – is the place to kick back and unwind. Its 15 simple but comfy rooms look out to the river, over luxuriant gardens of exotic blooms and fruit trees.. There’s a lovely stretch of sand – ideal for lazing and river swimming by day, beach bonfires and alfresco dinners by night and a new swimming pool for a refreshing dip. Take a birding walk to tick off the island’s umpteen species, splash about by kayak or paddle board, or head a little further afield: soak up some off-the-tourist-trail culture in nearby Bartica, a lively mining town developed from a 19th-century mission; or sail over to neighbouring Parrot Island at dusk, to watch hundreds of these colourful birds returning to roost. Baganara Island, near Bartica, Essequibo River; +592 222 8053; baganara.net Caiman House Field Station A few nights spent at this research-based community lodge in the Rupununi savannah is a chance to get hands-on with nature conservation and immerse yourself in local culture. Founded to study black caiman, the nonprofit station sits in the indigenous village of Yupukari and is now run entirely by community members – your visit directly contributes to locally driven initiatives. Rooms are simple but sizeable, plus there’s a lovely lounge, open deck and cool veranda for lazy afternoons. You can meet the villagers, learn a few words of Makushi, and visit sustainable furniture-making ventures. And you can head out at night with the caiman study crew as they capture, measure and release black caiman of various lengths and sizes. . There are also opportunities for riverboat trips to see the huge Victoria Amazonica water lily bloom, plus bird walks, wildlife-spotting and chances to learn about other on-site projects such as river turtle rearing. Yupukari, Rupununi; caimanhouse.com Iwokrama River Lodge These eight river-facing cabins lie within one million acres of pristine rainforest in the vast Iwokrama wilderness, a privately owned nonprofit area with unmatched biodiversity, dedicated to conservation and sustainability. Expert-guided nature walks, mountain hikes, safari drives and boat trips (both day and night) will reveal some of the resident species, from the vibrant profusion of birds to black caiman, and (with luck) elusive jaguar. You can also mingle with the on-site research teams over dinner in the lodge’s main building. Or simply loll in your comfy, solar-powered cabin – each has a breezy wrap-around veranda strung with hammocks, so you can kick back by the riverbank, swaying gently as the sun sets. Kurupukari, Essequibo River; +592 643 2622; https://iwokramariverlodge.com Karanambu Lodge This former working cattle ranch and balata collection station, sprawled across the diverse Rupununi region, is now a beacon of ecotourism. It was here that Diane McTurk established a pioneering centre for conservation, focused on the plight of endangered giant river otters. Now, guests staying at the lodge’s simple but comfortable clay-brick cabins can immerse themselves in the Rupununi's savannah, wetlands, rivers and forests, exploring by boat, 4WD or on foot. Some 600 species of bird have been recorded here, as well as big charismatic critters: giant river otters, giant anteaters, capybara, black caiman. You can join two guided excursions each day, in the early morning and late afternoon, and watch a new cast of animals emerge at night. There’s also plenty of time to sit back with a rum punch, watching the wetlands erupting into life. Rupununi; +592 643 4110; karanambutrustandlodge.org Rewa Eco Lodge In 2005, a small Makushi community living at the confluence of the Rewa and Rupununi rivers decided to shift from animal-poaching to ecotourism and conservation. The result is one of Guyana’s most isolated, most authentic, most sustainability-focused ecolodges, where the locals will welcome you to enjoy hand-built cabins, delicious food, warm hospitality and an invitation to explore their unique, biodiverse home. Head out on jungle walks to look for macaws, toucans and a variety of other birds, and maybe spot anaconda, agouti and armadillo. Drift along in a dug-out canoe or try your luck at fishing for piranha, peacock bass and himara among other big game fish. Climb nearby mountains for views over the snaking rivers and sweeping forest, and visit the nearby village of Rewa to meet the community. Rewa, North Rupununi; +592 645 2602; https://www.rewaecolodge.com Rock View Lodge Tucked beneath the foothills of the Pakaraima Mountains, Rock View Lodge is an ideal base for forays into the wild Rupununi savannah. There are eight comfortable guest rooms, with shady verandahs and relaxing hammocks. These sit amid a profusion of flowers and fruit trees, around a cool swimming pool. The birding here is spectacular, with 300 species recorded. The lodge is also well placed for biking and hiking trips across the grasslands, and horseback riding to the surrounding homes in the villages of Annai, Aranaputa and Wowetta. Travellers can also partake in tours to the local peanut butter factory and sample some locally made peanut and cashew nut butter. It’s a great choice for culture-lovers, too: the lodge has an extensive library and art collection, while the Makushi village of Annai, where you can spend time with the local people, is only a five-minute walk away. Annai, Rupununi; +592 645 9675; https://rockviewlodge.com Surama Eco Lodge This wonderful lodge is managed by the residents of the Makushi village of Surama. Local carpenters and artisans built the cosy round guest huts, and farmers and fishermen provide fresh produce for the meals. The first community-owned and run tourism project in Guyana, many local people are employed as cleaners, cooks, drivers and guides – after all, no one knows the area better. It’s less like staying in a lodge, more like becoming part of the community. The wildlife here is spectacular, too: you might spot black spider and red howler monkeys on hikes up Surama Mountain, peccaries and tree frogs in the forest, piranhas on expeditions down the Burro Burro River, and an abundance of birds everywhere, from Scarlet Macaws to Harpy Eagles. Surama, North Rupununi; +592 653 7160; suramaecolodge.com Waikin Ranch (above) Embrace the lifestyle of a savannah cowboy at Waikin, a working ranch on the rolling North Rupununi, close to the border with Brazil. Four large, stylish, solar-powered cabins gaze over the gardens and the grasslands to the distant Kanuku Mountains; fold-back glass doors and wrap-around verandahs invite in all that wilderness, as do the bathrooms, with their open-to-the-sky showers. Head out on birdwatching walks around the grounds or saddle up with the vaqueros to help take the cattle out to pasture – keeping an eye out for giant anteaters as you ride. Afterwards, cool off in the pool and peruse the kitchen garden to pick your own produce for the delicious farm-to-table dinners. Plan to stay up late: the sunrises and star-gazing are out of this world. Lethem, Rupununi; +(592) 226 8989; waikinranch.com For details on adventure activities in Guyana as well as natural and cultural attractions, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Guyana

Exploring Guyana is rarely a passive experience – there’s a temptingly long menu of activities, matching the diversity of landscapes, wildlife and culture. Unsurprising in the ‘Land of Many Waters’, opportunities for fishing and canoeing abound – paddling a traditional dugout along the Burro Burro River is a perfect way to delve into this biodiverse environment. Trails through rainforests, along gorges, up mountains and across savannah offer rich opportunities for hiking, and riders saddle up in the ranches of the Rupununi. Birding and wildlife-watching is unrivalled, with creatures great – jaguar, giant anteater, harpy eagle – and small vying for your attention, as well as chances to contribute to important conservation research projects. And throughout, you’ll be welcomed by people keen to share their heritage and traditions, from indigenous cooking with cassava to market tours in Georgetown. Artisanal arts and crafts Guyana produces a rich array of arts and crafts – from hats, mats, bowls and baskets woven from tibisiri straw to balata-wood figurines, from brightly coloured textiles to clay pottery. Many of these super souvenirs are made by the Amerindian community; by purchasing the wares of these grass-roots artisans, you’re helping to provide a vital income source that enables communities to thrive by creative enterprise rather than less sustainable means such as logging and the wildlife trade. The gift shop at the Ministry of Amerindian Affairs stocks a selection of handmade jewellery, clothing, ornaments and sculptures, or you can even visit the small stalls at the Hibiscus Craft Plaza. Look out for projects on the ground too. For instance, the Yupukari Crafters (near Karanambu) make a range of home furnishings – from hammocks to chairs and tiles – that brings income into the village, while the Moruca Embroidery Women’s Group, based in the Santa Rosa and Waramuri area, in Guyana’s north-west, produce textiles embroidered with local wildlife that bring in an alternative income to sea turtle harvesting. Market tours and cooking classes Take an expert-led tour of Georgetown’s historic markets – bustling Stabroek, full-to-bursting Bourda – and you’ll get a true taste of what makes Guyana tick: there are few better ways to understand a place than through its food culture. A guide will help you navigate the colourful chaos, identify the exotic ingredients – from blim blim and noni to pawpaw and souri – and help you pick the best ingredients. You can then have a go at making a few classics yourself: maybe cook up a classic pepperpot, an aromatic meat stew, thick with cassareep (a black sauce made from cassava root). Or try recreating the creole dish metemgee, a one-pot mix of cassava, sweet potatoes, yams, plantains and spices boiled in coconut milk and served with duff (wheat flour dumplings), held to be a source of strength and virility. Conservation activities Preservation of the nation’s biodiversity is intrinsically linked with tourism in Guyana – unsurprisingly, since wildlife and unspoiled natural landscapes are two of the biggest draws for visitors. And you can get hands-on with conservation at a number of sites across the country. For example, at Caiman House in Yupukari village, you can join the study of the endangered black caiman, heading out at night alongside the research crew as they capture, measure and tag these reptiles. And at Iwokrama River Lodge, which hosts an important research centre, you might meet and help scientists studying rainforest ecology and the ecosystem services this spectacular habitat provides. River kayaking and canoeing Paddling the rivers of the ‘Land of Waters’ offers an immersive and unique perspective on Guyana’s landscapes, culture and wildlife. One of the country’s great adventures is a multi-day journey through the Rupununi along the Burro Burro River in a traditional dugout canoe, spotting diverse birdlife along with giant river otter, black and spectacled caiman, red howler monkey and perhaps even jaguar and tapir en route. Starting from Surama – where you can learn about indigenous Makushi culture from local villagers – camp on the riverbank and fish for piranha to roast over an open fire. Birding Guyana is a paradise for birders – more than 820 avian species call its forests, savannahs, mangroves, beaches and plains home. Much of that incredible biodiversity is found in the pristine rainforest that cloaks over 80% of the land. In rich birding locations such as Iwokrama Rainforest Reserve, you might spot a host of vibrant species, with names that provide clues to their colourful plumage: watch for green-tailed jacamar, purple-breasted cotinga, painted parakeet, rufous-throated sapphire, not to mention kaleidoscopic toucans, macaws, prehistoric-looking hoatzin (or ‘stink birds’) and the flamboyant Guianan cock-of-the-rock (pictured above), with its punk-rock orange mohican crest. Birds of prey include the majestic harpy eagle, while wetlands harbour ibis, storks and herons. The country’s strong focus on conserving biodiversity is reflected in the research bases, community-focused lodges and expert guides that enable wildlife lovers to locate and identify its avian wonders. Indigenous culture and lifestyle Some nine indigenous nations proudly preserve traditional lifestyles, and you’ll find plenty of opportunities to learn from these indigenous nations whose ancestors arrived in this region perhaps 11,000 years ago. The North Rupununi is home to the Makushi people, many of whom run eco-lodges in the area and welcome guests to learn about the region’s wildlife, language and traditions. It’s an immersive experience: at Rewa Eco Lodge, for example, at the confluence of the Rupununi and Rewa Rivers, discover the nine local uses of cassava, from making bread and farine (a little like couscous) to preserving meat and even making local beer. Elsewhere, ecotourism is being developed in indigenous communities at Karasabai, in North Rupununi; Moraikobai, close to Georgetown; and Warapoka, in Region 1. Catch-and-release sport fishing Anglers rejoice: the rivers and lakes of this ‘Land of Many Waters’ shimmer with a variety of fish, ranging from small but ferocious to very, very large. Some you’ll have heard of – piranha, of course, and several huge species of catfish including the ‘lau lau’ or goliath, growing to over 2m long – while others will be less familiar. There’s the arapaima, the world’s largest scaled freshwater fish; the payara or ‘vampire fish’, its lower jaw armed with fearsome needle-sharp teeth; and the colourful lukanani, known as the peacock bass – not as hefty as those giant catfish, but feisty enough to make up for it. Sports fishing, as with other activities in Guyana, is managed for sustainability and the community of Rewa has built an international reputation of excellence in catch-and-release, which is seasonal. The Essequibo, Burro Burro and Siparuni Rivers are among the waterways offering rich pickings for fishing enthusiasts, and lodges offer packages including boat hire and fishing guides; Rewa Eco Lodge is a top pick. Horse riding The broad expanse of the Rupununi Savannah is Guyana’s wild west – a swathe of rolling grassland patchworked by some of the world’s oldest and largest ranches. This is the place to climb into the saddle and experience the life of a vaquero (cowboy), driving cattle or simply enjoying the freedom of these widest open spaces. The North and South Rupununi, divided either side of the Kanuku Mountains, have subtly different characters. The (slightly) more visited North is the home of sustainably run operations such as Waikin Ranch, where joining vaqueros as they take cattle out to pasture or round them up is a treat – particularly when a giant anteater makes a guest appearance. Hiking Walking in Guyana is more Indiana Jones than Alfred Wainwright – though there are well-kept trails along popular short routes, longer treks typically involve bushwhacking through dense forest, fording rivers and keeping an eye out for the profuse wildlife en route. And they’re all the better for it: the epic multi-day hikes to mighty Kaieteur Falls, or the arduous trek to Mt Roraima’s base or summit, for example. But there are plenty of shorter but still challenging excursions, including climbs up Iwokrama, Turtle, Awarmie or Surama mountains. All are achievable in a day or less, and all the more enjoyable undertaken with experienced local guides. Wildlife spotting and photography Guyana is known for its Brobdingnagian beasts: giant river otters, turtles and anteaters, capybara, black caiman, harpy eagles and of course the elusive jaguar – the Americas’ biggest cat. And while encounters with these behemoths are electrifying, there’s much more to see among the country’s biodiverse habitats – savannahs, mangroves, plains, mountains and the lush rainforest that swathes over 80% of the land. Golden frogs lurk in giant tank bromeliads, huge arapaima fish swimming through the rivers, and howler monkeys, ocelots and boa constrictors swing, slink and slither through the forests. Try to include at least some activities after dark, perhaps a boat trip along the Essequibo River to spot nocturnal species. Wherever and whenever you travel, patience, binoculars and a good zoom lens are boons – but with expert local guides, you’re sure to enjoy unforgettable animal encounters. For where to stay in Guyana and natural and cultural attractions, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Guyana

Nature stars in Guyana: its varied habitats – from lush rainforest and endless savannahs to rugged mountains, thundering cataracts, snaking rivers and golden beaches – and their diverse residents provide the big draws. Very big: on a wildlife safari you’re likely to meet giant river otters and anteaters, capybara and arapaima – the planet’s largest scaled freshwater fish – Harpy Eagles and, if you’re lucky, jaguar, as well as encountering one of the largest single-drop waterfalls in the world, Kaieteur Falls. But woven into this rich natural tapestry is a history stretching back through eras of colonisation and immigration – still evident at sites such as Fort Zeelandia and the old wooden buildings of Georgetown – to the arrival of Amerindian peoples perhaps 11 millennia ago. Discover the country’s rich blended heritage, from market and cookery tours in the capital to stays in Makushi villages deep in the wild interior. Fort Island The Dutch once presided over the whole colony of Essequibo from this small fluvial island, 16km from the mouth of the Essequibo River. Here, in the mid-18th century, they built the Court of Policy Hall – where decisions were made and enslaved people auctioned – and the current Fort Zeelandia (pictured above), to ward off any invasions from other European powers. Today, though, it’s a peaceful approach across calm waters to reach the island, Fort Zeelandia lies in ruins, though parts of the old ramparts and several canons remain. In better condition is the single-storey red-brick Court, which is the oldest remaining non-military structure in Guyana. Now the Dutch Heritage Museum, it displays numerous maps, charts and artefacts from the colonies, telling the story of the colonisers’ dealings with the people they enslaved and the indigenous peoples. Essequibo River; nationaltrust.gov.gy/fort-zeelandia-the-court-of-policy/ Georgetown Guyana’s capital is quite the melting pot, spiced by centuries of colonial back-and-forth, sugar trading, slave history and, of course, even more, deep-rooted indigenous heritage. The cultural melange simmers at the mouth of the Demerara River, at the edge of South America and fringed by the Atlantic. Georgetown is cosmopolitan, sometimes chaotic, faded in parts but never dull. Get a feel for local life at the striking iron-and-steel Stabroek Market, the ‘bizarre bazaar’ where stalls sell everything from fresh fish and electronicsand head to Bourda Market for a colourful cornucopia of Guyanese fruit and veg. For architectural treasures, pay a visit to St George’s Cathedral – allegedly the tallest wooden building in the world – Gothic-style City Hall and the Walter Roth Museum, a handsome 19th-century house containing fine Amerindian art. There are plenty of places for idle ambling, too: Georgetown has numerous parks and a bountiful Botanical Gardens, home to manatee ponds and 200-plus species of birds. Come early evening and promenade along the Sea Wall, the spot for people-watching and cooling breezes. guyanatourism.com/wheretogo/georgetown-capitalofguyana Iwokrama Rainforest Reserve The scale and diversity of the Iwokrama International Centre for Rainforest Conservation and Development is hard to comprehend: almost one million acres of teeming, tweeting, roaring, overflowing unspoiled wilderness. Run as a pioneering not-for-profit base for ecotourism, research and sustainable land management for a quarter of a century, it is one of the most pristine places on the planet. Visits to the dense forests might yield encounters with giants: capybara (the largest rodent), arapaima (the largest scaled freshwater fish), black caiman (South America’s biggest crocodilian), giant river otters, giant river turtles and jaguar (the Western Hemisphere’s largest cat). Climb to the canopy walkway for a thrilling introduction to the upper levels of the forest. Iwokrama is the land of the Makushi, who hunted, fished and gathered food across this rich landscape for countless generations. You’ll discover scenes from their lives depicted in petroglyphs, and hear stories from Makushi people who work in Iwokrama today. Various eco-lodges provide bases for exploring well-preserved stretches of this lush forest. iwokrama.org Kaieteur National Park and Kaieteur Falls In a land of giants, the most monumental experience in Guyana is surely Kaieteur Falls – a thundering cataract where the coffee-hued Potaro River plunges 226m into a rocky gorge. Twice the height of Victoria Falls and more than four times the height of Niagara, this is reputedly the tallest single-drop waterfall in the world. But though its sheer size and volume captures the attention, don’t ignore the surrounding 627km2 of lush rainforest, bustling with biodiversity – Kaieteur National Park. Wildlife-watchers are in paradise, spotting hundreds of bird species including the vividly coloured Guianan cock-of-the-rock, the white-collared swifts that flit behind the falls, and vibrant parrots including several types of macaws. You might also encounter dazzling blue morpho butterflies and the golden frogs that hide away inside giant tank bromeliads. guyanatourism.com/wheretogo/kaieteurnationalpark Kanuku Mountains Protected Area The text for Kaieteur is repeated here, instead of the original copy. The correct text should be: Soaring up to 1100m above the Rupununi savannah and adjacent rainforest, the Kanuku Mountains represent a real ‘lost world’ – a remote, geologically ancient range hosting biological curiosities that reputedly inspired Arthur Conan-Doyle’s ripping adventure yarn. The protected area, spanning over 6000km2, is one of this wildest of countries most-wild regions, a biodiversity hotspot that’s home to 60% of Guyana’s bird species – no wonder the name comes from the Wapishana word meaning ‘rich forest’. The varied habitats support a range of species – spy harpy eagles, jaguars, armadillos, giant river otters, river turtles, giant anteaters and more than 80 types of bat. protectedareastrust.org.gy/protected-areas/kanuku-mountains Shell Beach Protected Area The clue is in the name: this swathe of coastline stretching for over 120km along Guyana’s far north-western shore comprises unimaginable numbers of shell fragments. That would be extraordinary enough on its own, but the beach is merely one of diverse marine and terrestrial ecosystems. You’ll find mudflats, seasonally flooded savannah and extensive coastal and riverine mangroves used as nurseries for many of the 59 fish species found in the area. The birdlife is dazzling – and not just the bright scarlet ibis, American flamingos, toucans and macaws. More than 250 coastal and migratory bird species have been spotted within this amazing area. Add West Indian manatees, Guiana dolphins, jaguars and four species of endangered sea turtles that clamber out onto the sand to nest between February and August, then you’ve got a spectacular wildlife destination. protectedareastrust.org.gy/protected-areas/shell-beach Orinduik Falls Compared to the majesty of Kaieteur , Orinduik Falls – close to the Brazilian border in Guyana’s central west – are more like a natural water park. Stretching over 150m across, the Ireng River tumbles 25m down over a cluster of red jasper steps and terraces creating natural bubble-fizzing pools that are as soothing as a Jacuzzi. This is the ideal spot to relax and admire the grass-clad foothills of the pristine Pakaraima Mountains. A visit is easily combined on a day-trip from Georgetown taking in both sets of falls, or flying direct from Georgetown. Savannahs of the North and South Rupununi Guyana’s Wild South-West is a vast tranche of grassland flanked by pristine rainforest and divided into north and south by the Kanuku Mountains. This is cowboy country: vaqueros drive cattle across sprawling ranches, offering opportunities to get in the saddle and ride alongside these hardy characters, or whoop to the displays at the Rupununi Rodeo around Easter. But the region is nothing if not diverse. It’s studded with pioneering eco-lodges, many community-run and boasting their own wildlife specialties – special mention goes to the giant river otters and anteaters of Karanambu, but there’s plenty more to see besides. This is also the place to immerse yourself in indigenous culture – learn to cook spicy pepper pot or crunchy farine, a favourite dish made with cassava, and slow down to the sleepy pace of traditional village life. guyanatourism.com/wheretogo/northrupununi The Essequibo River Circuit & Lake Capoey Guyana’s largest river snakes over 1000 miles north from its source in the the Acarai Mountains, near the border with Brazil, through rainforest, over waterfalls and past bustling wildlife to reach the Atlantic Ocean. At its northern extremity, it widens into a broad estuary studded with islands, making a day tour of its historic, cultural and natural highlights easily accessible from capital Georgetown, just to the east. Travellers on the Essequibo Circuit typically visit Fort Island’s Court of Policy Hall and ruined Fort Zeelandia, both dating from the mid-18th century, before continuing to one or more resort islands such as Hurakabra, Aruwai White H2O Water Resort, Sloth Island and Baganara Island Resort. Tag on a visit to Lake Capoey, where a boat ride to the Capoey Missions offers a chance to experience low-key Amerindian culture. Indigenous communities Wildlife conservation, eco-tourism and traditional culture overlap in Guyana; many indigenous villages manage or work at eco-lodges, and welcome travellers to discover timeless lifestyles, food and heritage. This is typified in the Rupununi Savannahs, where the village of Yupukari is a shining example: here, Wapishana and Makushi peoples have taken on oversight of village concerns, development and conservation work, partnering with researchers to share knowledge and develop capacity for wildlife conservation. Local guides know their environment best, guaranteeing wonderful wildlife encounters for nature-loving travellers.Best, though, is the chance to learn about daily life – for example, the nine uses of cassava, from making bread to preserving meat and even brewing a kind of beer. For where to stay in Guyana and adventure activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Guyana

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Catalonia, Paul Bloomfield picks out a selection of places to eat, from the coast to the mountains of the Pyrenees. Catalonia's varied landscape is reflected in a host of delicious specialities. The coastline yields spectacular seafood – savour oysters and mussels around the Ebro Delta, paellas and zarzuelas (fish stews) along the coast. Mountain pastures lend delicate flavours to cheeses from cow, sheep and goat milk, and the range of pork products is staggering, from Iberico dried hams to sausages in all shapes, sizes and hues – for carnivores, tucking into a succulent butifarra is a must. Then there are the regional and seasonal specialities: white asparagus, Pyrenean river fish, wild mushrooms, Ebro Delta rice and the Lleida favourite cargols (snails) with rich allioli. Even the simple tomato here has a flavour unimaginable anywhere else, delicious rubbed on toast in the ubiquitous pa amb tomàquet. Catalonia's wine regions include no fewer than 12 designations of origin – don’t miss fresh-flavoured sparkling cavas, grenache and carignan wines, many of them organic and all delicious. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Catalonia: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places to eat in Catalonia Restaurant Green Spot, Barcelona A beautiful restaurant in Port Vell (near the harbour and beaches), which caters for both veggies and non-veggies, serving salads (such as kale and quinoa salad with cherry tomatoes, hazelnuts and white miso vinaigrette), soups, pizza and pasta, and a range of international food, including Thai and Mexican. encompaniadelobos.com Restaurant Cal Carter, Paisatges Barcelona For over half a century the Perich family has been perfecting their take on mountain cuisine. Not surprisingly, they’ve got rather good at it – and their sparky brand of traditional gastronomy, prepared in the inspiring surroundings of the gorgeous medieval village of Mura in the Natural Park of Sant Llorenç del Munt and Obac, has garnered a loyal following. calcarter.net Restaurant l'Hostalet, Costa Brava The dormant volcanoes of the Garrotxa region don’t just define the dramatic landscapes here – they’re also responsible for the fertile soils that contribute to the traditional cuisine. restaurantlhostalet.com Restaurant El Fai, Lleida Pyrenees A family-owned restaurant in Taüll in the Lleida Pyrenees, in the heart of the Boí Valley known for World Heritage Romanesque churches (the restaurant itself is opposite the Romanesque church of San Clemente de Tahull), and close to the entrance to the Aigüestortes and Estany de Sant Maurici National Park, the only National Park in Catalonia. restaurantelfai.com Restaurant Er Occitan, Val d’Aran High in the Pyrenees, the Val d’Aran is a unique enclave with its own language (Aranese, related to the Occitan dialects spoken in south-west France), customs and culinary traditions. At this fine-dining restaurant, head chef Marcos Pedarròs Delaurens plays with those traditions, and the ideals of the slow food movement, to create inventive haute cuisine of an exceptional quality. eroccitan.com Restaurant Casa Xalets, Lleida Pyrenees The amuse-bouche at this family-run restaurant in the heart of the historic village of Àger is the view: the wall of east-facing windows frames dramatic vistas of the sheer flanks of Montsec mountain – perfect for watching the sunset alpenglow paint the rock walls orange and pink. restaurantcasaxalets.com Restaurant La Huerta, Lands of Lleida Don’t be fooled by the rather unpromising exterior. Inside, at the epicentre of this friendly restaurant, in the open kitchen dominated by its huge brick oven, chef Gerard Balasch works magic with top local ingredients, largely focusing his efforts on the grill. lahuerta-restaurant.com For information on characterful accommodation, nearby visitor attractions and activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Catalonia