As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Naxos & the Small Cyclades, here's our pick of characterful places to stay. Simple, stylish, natural – the Greeks' impeccable sense of design is on show across Naxos and the Small Cyclades. From old stone houses tucked away in whitewashed villages, to contemporary glass structures overlooking Naxos Town, from beachside studios with bougainvillea-draped terraces to restored villas decked out in a traditional palette of white and blue, there are places to suit all tastes and budgets in this colourful collection of places to stay. Whatever you do, don't skip breakfast: feast on savory pies filled with Naxian cheeses, sweet pastries, freshly-squeezed citrus juices and local yoghurt laced with heather honey. The beach is in easy reach at all these places, too – in many cases, right in front of the hotel – so you can enjoy a quick, quiet dip before breakfast or wallow in the warm waters at the end of the day. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Naxos & the Small Cyclades: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places to stay in Naxos & the Small Cyclades Flisvos Seaside Studios and Apartments, Naxos, Greece A mixture of beachside studios and apartments tucked away behind the golden sands of Plaka, where kite and windsurfers of the Flisvos Sport Club on site ply the turquoise waters. The beautiful, achingly cool rooms have all been newly refurbished... flisvos-sportclub.com Makares Apartments, Donousa, Small Cyclades, Greece A higgledy piggledy complex of apartments and studios just above Donousa's tiny port. Rooms are cool and contemporary, all with views from the terraces. Plenty to do on this lovely island, and charming Loukas will take you on boat trips. makares-donoussa.gr Nissaki Beach Hotel, Naxos, Greece A hop from Naxos Town but a world away from those sizzling summer crowds, this boutique hotel has 24 elegant bedrooms, a beautiful pool area dotted with shady palms and a smart little beachside restaurant serving tasty fish dishes. nissaki-beach.com Lianos Village Hotel, Naxos, Greece High up above the beach of Agios Prokopios with eight traditional Cycladic-style buildings, painted in Mediterranean colours. Life here revolves around the lovely pool area, with beach bar and panoramic views. lianosvillage.com Naxian Collection Villas, Naxos, Greece Yannis and Maria have created this cool collection of Cycladic-style buildings with family life in mind – they brought up their two children here, and it shows. It's a place to cool off and relax, and there's space – masses of it. naxiancollection.com Prassinos Studios, Donousa, Small Cyclades, Greece A short walk from the harbour on the island of Donousa, this collection of traditional houses is the perfect place to while away a few days on this lovely, laid-back island. With a village-like feel to the place, the houses stretch over a hillside. prassinosstudios.blogspot.com Lagos Mare, Naxos, Greece This lovely hotel is set just four minutes from the beach – enjoy a quick, quiet dip before a breakfast of local Naxos goodies. Spacious rooms with plenty of little luxuries and fabulous pool and bar. lagosmare.gr For ideas of local food and drink, visitor attractions and outdoor activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Naxos & the Small Cyclades

As we launch our Green Traveller's Guide to Athens, Clare Hargreaves picks out a selection of things to do in and around the Greek Capital. If you want a change from wandering the streets on your own, there’s plenty to keep you fit and stimulated both inside and outside the city. Explore it by bike, join an organised tour of its street art or food, or team up with a professional photographer to learn how best to photograph it. At Vouliagmeni, you can take to the curative thermal waters inside a lake housing the largest underwater cave in the world. Or continue along the coast by kayak to admire Poseidon’s Temple at Cape Sounion. Alternatively, get your heart racing by exploring nearby Mount Parnitha on foot or bike. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Athens: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Activities in Athens Walking Mount Parnitha (view pictured above) In less than an hour's drive from central Athens, you can be out trekking in the glorious National Park of Mount Parnitha. A great place to start is at the Mpafi Refuge (where there’s parking and a café) - with glorious views of the valley below - from where there are lots of walking trails through creeks and fir forests, for all abilities. En route, keep an eye out for mammals (there are over 40 in the national park), including deer (they do come close to the road so you might even see them on the drive up to the refuge from the gorge of Hounis). There are some wonderful places to go for a picnic, including via the Mola plateau where you’ll come across a small chapel and freshwater spring. Trekking Hellas can provide local tour guides to show you the way. trekking.gr/en Swim in the thermal waters of Vouliagmeni Lake Vouliagmeni Lake is a natural lake a stone’s thow from what’s now dubbed the “Athenian Riviera” and is essentially a natural spa. Cradled by pink limestone rock, the lake’s brackish waters are continuously replenished by both the sea and underground thermal springs, and are rich in salts and minerals. They also hold a temperature of between 22 and 29 degrees C all year long, making them a great place to relax. The lake’s waters are populated by Garra Rufa fish - sometimes called spa fish - which exfoliate your skin of its dead cells as you wallow. There’s lakeside waiter service and there’s an all-day restaurant too. vouliagmenilake.gr Alternative Athens Street Art Tour See the city from a street artist’s point of view by joining this “unexpected walk around an open-air canvas.” Once you start opening your eyes, you’ll be amazed at the quantity and quality of the street art in Athens, described by The New York Times as “a contemporary Mecca for street art in Europe.” Led by an expert artist guide, you tour neighbourhoods such as Gazi, Metaxourgio and Psirri in search of edgy outdoor murals, elaborate stencils and raw graffitis. Learn what’s behind the images and how they fit into the political and social context of modern-day Athens. alternativeathens.com Delicious Athens Food Tour This 3.5-hour tour takes you through some of the city’s most interesting neighbourhoods to discover flavours and producers that other tourists rarely encounter. Visit bakeries, delis, coffee shops and covered markets, and as you go, see how a real “Greek coffee” is made and taste local delicacies from souvlaki to bougatsa (cream-filled phylo pastries) and organic extra-virgin olive oils that you’ll never find in a supermarket. Alternative Athens also runs tours in ‘Wine tasting and Greek mezes’, as well as ‘Home cooked meals’ tours which take you into Athenians’ homes to see how Greeks cook at home. alternativeathens.com Athens Cycling Tour The centre of Athens is becoming increasingly car-free so cycling is a quick and enjoyable way of seeing many of the sights from the comfort of a saddle. This half-day guided bike tour in the city’s car-free zones – with a maximum group size of 12 cyclists on 24-gear trekking-city bikes – starts in the pedestrian street near Acropolis metro station, then takes you past the new Acropolis Museum and a range of the capital’s main landmarks including the National Observatory, Kerameikos cemetery, Thission, the Ancient Greek Agora, the Roman Agora and Plaka. Cycle the shady pathways of the National Gardens to the tune of birdsong before reaching the Presidential Mansion and the magnificent neo-classical Zappeion Hall.The tour ends at the Temple of Olympian Zeus and Hadrian’s Arch. En route, the guide points out interesting facts about the sights, including tips on where to go for great local food and drink. Highly recommended. athensbybike.gr/athens-bike-tour Al Hammam Baths, Plaka The purifying effect of steam and hot water was well understood by the ancient Greeks and the Romans, who built bathhouses and turned bathing into a sophisticated ritual. This long tradition has been given a stylish modern interpretation by Nikos Marinakis, who decided to build Al Hammam inside an old Greek house in ancient Plaka after discovering Athens’ Bathhouse of the Winds just 100 metres away. Sweat it out in the steam room, then enjoy a massage inside one of its treatment rooms, stunningly decorated with traditional tiles, carved wooden settles and stainless glass. There’s tea and loukoumi on the balcony afterwards. alhammam.gr Cycling the Tatoi Royal Estate Tatoi, on a densely wooded southeast-facing slope of Mount Parnitha 27 kms from the centre of Athens, was once the summer retreat of King George and Queen Olga, and from 1948 became the royal family’s permanent residence. The estate included vineyards, vegetable gardens, extensive olive and citrus groves, stables, a winery and an olive oil mill. The area is now abandoned but is protected by the Natura 2000 network as an area of outstanding natural beauty. It’s a wonderful region to cycle through with its rich flora and fauna. After a 3.5-hour ride you have a picnic lunch before returning to Athens. trekking.gr/en/product_en/biking-tatoi-royal-estate-mt-parnitha-foothills Exploring Pan’s cave on Mount Parnitha Pan’s cave, on the south-west foothills of Mount Parnitha, was discovered in the 19th century and is said to have been a place of worship for Pan and the Nymphs. It’s also known as the ‘cave of the lamps’, thanks to the fragments of oil lamps that have been found here. This day of exploration combines hiking, caving and abseiling, so you’ll need to be fit! You start by hiking to the Keladona gorge with its lush vegetation of fir, plane and chestnut trees. You then abseil into the cave, which consists of two chambers, the second hung with beautiful stalactites. trekking.gr/en/product_en/caving-mt-parnitha-athens Watch a film at Cine Thision - outdoors beneath the Parthenon! Silver screen buffs and nostalgics alike will love this open-air cinema which has operated since 1935. Based in Thission, just below the Parthenon, it functions from May to October, and as films start (usually around 9pm) you see the ancient temple glowing in the setting sun behind the screen. With its retro cushioned seats, with tables alongside for snacks, it oozes old-fashioned charm, and when the evenings start to get chilly blankets are provided. The cinema usually screens two films per evening, often old classics. There’s a lovely snack bar too, serving everything from tsipouro to pies and spoon sweets. cine-thisio.gr Learn to Dance Want to dance like a Greek? Fancy discovering your inner Zorba? This 5-hour evening session of music, dancing, and food will get you into the Greek swing of things as you learn the steps of some of the country’s most popular dances, from the famous syrtaki, to the kalamantianosand syrtos. Instruction is by some of Athens’ best dance teachers, and after your exertions you’ll be rewarded with a feast, Greek wine and some live music - all served with a view of the illuminated Acropolis. No skill or previous dancing experience required, so get your dancing shoes on now! greeking.me and likealocalguide.com Athens photo shoot A centrepiece as spectacular as the Acropolis is crying out to be photographed. But how do you do that in the best light in a way that looks professional? What is the best time of day to get your camera clicking? If you’re asking those questions then this tour could be for you. It consists of a two-hour one-to-one session with professional photographer Michalis Christou during which you photograph the area of Athens of your choice - there are seven routes to choose from, ranging from the Acropolis to Athens’ historic hills and neighbourhoods, or the beach. You can also decide whether to shoot in the daytime or at night. Check out Michalis’ images on his Instagram feed @michalis_m_christou likealocalguide.com Sea Kayak tour to Cape Sounion Leave the city bustle behind with this half-day sea kayak adventure along the Athenian Riviera as far as Cape Sounion and its Temple of Poseidon (celebrated by Lord Byron with his ‘Place me on Sunium’s marbled step’ in Don Juan). Escorted by a guide, you paddle along the coastline of the Saronic Gulf, stopping for swims and snacks en route. Admire the Temple of Poseidon from your kayak, then step ashore to explore the well-preserved Doric-style temple (entrance fee included). Round off your trip with lunch at a taverna with views over the cape. Kayaking and snorkling equipment provided. viator.com/en-GB/tours/Athens/Athens-Sea-Kayak/d496-9238P16

As we launch our Green Traveller's Guide to Athens, Clare Hargreaves picks out a selection of new and alternative attractions in the Greek Capital. A visit to the iconic Acropolis is a must, so too is its new museum and the National Archaelogical Museum, but after that there are scores of lesser-known places to explore. Take in the tranquility of the ancient graveyard at Kerameikos, or across the road in Gazi, watch a theatrical rendition of the city’s gas-fired past at the Gas Museum inside the old gasworks, or pop into the nearby Museum of Cycladic Art to see the moving Early Bronze Age sculptures that inspired 20th-century artists from Giacometti to Picasso. Recent openings include the Goulandris gallery in town, and the no-expense-spared Stavros Niarchos cultural centre. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Athens: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places of interest in Athens Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center (pictured above) This shimmering glass-cased centre above Faliron bay was designed by architect Renzo Piano (The Shard, Whitney Museum of American Art) and funded by the Stavros Niarchos Foundation, established by the multi-billionnaire shipping tycoon before his death in 1996. A beacon of sustainability, the €566 million project is not only a cultural and recreational hub but also provides an HQ for the Greek National Opera and the National Library of Greece. Take time to explore its landscaped park, which hosts an incredible lineup of free events, from concerts to dance and exercise classes, and in summer, midnight movie marathons. snfcc.org and nationalopera.gr Basil & Elise Goulandris Foundation This new gallery, housed in a gleaming Neo-classical-inspired building near Syntagma Square, houses the art collection assembled by Andros-born shipowner Basil Goulandris with his wife Elise. Most of the art is by European masters such as Cezanne, Degas, van Gogh and Monet, but the third and fourth floors contain contemporary Greek artists. Look out for cubist erotica by Yannis Moralis, the portrait of Basil and Elise by George Rorris, and the delightful depictions of sailors and Piraeus by Yannis Tsarouchis. There’s one painting by Alekos Fassianos - A Wonderful Day (The Morning Cyclist) - painted in his characteristic “Byzantine” style. goulandris.gr Agios Eleftherios Byzantine church (or Little Metropolis) This dinky domed Byzantine church, dedicated to St Eleftherios, stands next to the far moderner Metropolitan Cathedral of Athens (or Great Metropolis) so is often called Little Metropolis. Its date of construction is unclear, with scholars suggesting dates ranging from the 9th to the 15th centuries. After Independence the church was abandoned, but in 1863 it was re-dedicated as a church. Uniquely among Byzantine churches it’s constructed out of re-used marble spolia rather than bricks - which gives it its shiny translucent appearance. Agios Sostis (The Holy Saviour) church Constructed as Greece’s pavilion for the 1900 Exposition Universelle in Paris, it was designed by a French architect and although he gave it a traditional cruciform shape, its materials - like the wrought iron frame - were revolutionary. After the Exhibition the church was returned to Athens whose authorities decided to locate it on the spot where an (unsuccessful) assassination attempt on King George I of Greece had taken place two years earlier. It was dedicated to the Holy Saviour in thanks for his lucky escape. Unfortunately the king’s luck ran out in 1913 when he was assassinated in Thessaloniki. sostis.gr (Greek only) Rebetika music at Kapnikareas Cafe Rebetika is often described as Greece’s version of American blues and was ‘imported’ by refugees from Asia Minor who sheltered in Athens during the Greco-Turkish war in 1919-22. But finding somewhere to listen to live Rebetika isn’t easy, particularly if you’re not a night owl, as most bands don’t get going until the wee hours. This central spot, opened by ex-tailor Sotiris Sofos and now run by his son Dimitris, is an exception. Rebetika starts at around 2pm and ends at 11pm. As you listen, you can enjoy the cafe’s simple but tasty food, including meatballs made to Dimitris’ grandmother’s recipe. Dekozis-Vouros Mansion This beautiful building now houses the Museum of the City of Athens and the enchanting Black Duck cafe. But its main claim to fame is for being one of the first houses built in liberated Athens in 1833, and one of the finest examples of austere classicism in Greece. Designed by German architects, the ornate mansion belonged to a banker from Chios called Stamatios Dekozis-Vouros. He helpfully lent it to newly installed King Otto and his new wife Amalia while they were waiting for their royal residence on Syntagma Square to be completed. Which is why Athenians often used to dub the place the ‘Old Palace.” athenscitymuseum.gr (Greek only) Keramikos cemetery and museum This tranquil site, uncovered in the 19th century during the construction of the main road, is named after the potters who populated it around 3,000 BC, using the clay from the banks of the (now mainly buried) Eridanous River. Today it’s better known as a 6th-century AD cemetery that’s effectively a museum of the ancient way of death. On the Street of the Tombs you’ll see the plots of wealthy Athenians, many touching monuments to loss, such as the statue of a girl with her pet dog and a grandmother with her grandchild on her knee. There’s a museum too. odysseus.culture.gr Museum of Cycladic Art The first floor of this museum houses one of the world’s finest private collections of Cycladic art, including marble figurines and vases, tools, weapons, and pottery produced by the Cycladic island culture that flourished in the central Aegean during the 3rd millennium BC (Early Bronze Age). The pure, abstract forms of its figurines have influenced many modern artists such as Hepworth, Moore and Modigliani and Giacometti. Other floors house ancient Greek and Cypriot art from 2000 BC to the 4th century AD. There’s a stunning garden-style cafe with an eye-catching white floating facade-sculpture too. cycladic.gr/en Technopolis Industrial Gas Museum This innovative and fun museum is housed in the old gasworks at Gazi, a complex of furnaces and industrial buildings that were built in the mid 19th century to provide Athens with gas lighting. Take part in an interactive tour using all your senses - smell, see, feel, hear, even taste, the history of these historic gasworks. Or join one of the hour-long “Have a Gas!” theatrical tours (in English) that bring the gasworks to life. The area around the gasworks, known as Technopolis, is a buzzing cultural hub, hosting bands, orchestras and dance troupes, and in May/June runs a jazz festival. gasmuseum.gr Museum of Greek Popular Instruments It might sound esoteric but this collection of Greek musical instruments, superbly displayed over three floors of a Neo-classical building in Plaka, is fascinating. If it’s played in Greece, it’ll be there. There’s everything from lyres and dulcimers to defi (tambourines), goat-stomach bagpipes, lutes and guitars, each telling its story as part of Greece’s history and culture. There are also festival and liturgical instruments such as triangles, livestock bells, and the wood planks priests on Mount Athos use call prayer. You don’t only look at them either; headphone sets allow you to listen to them playing too. odysseus.culture.gr Anafiotika If the cubist white-washed houses and steep narrow alleyways of this neighbourhood sandwiched between the Acropolis and Plaka remind you of a Cycladic island, it’s no surprise. The haphazard constructions, clinging to the hillside, were erected by builders who in the mid-19th century were brought over from the island of Anafi to build a palace for King Otto. Today it’s still populated by stray cats, bourganvillea, and men in string vests who sit outside their front doors as the telly blasts away inside. There are two atmospheric chapels too. A wonderful refuge from the hubbub of the city. Benaki Museum of Greek Culture Antonis Benakis was a politician’s son, born in Egypt in the late 19th century. After decades of collecting, in 1930 he turned the family’s private mansion into this museum. See paintings of him in the entrance hall - including a delightful one of him aged eight by Dimitris Mytaras. The museum exhibits facets of Greek culture from all periods over three floors. It’s also worth visiting its offshoots, including the Toy Museum (separate entry); the Museum of Islamic Art (separate entry); and its modern/contemporary Pireos annexe, hosting rotating temporary exhibitions. Buy a pass to visit each of the museums over a three-month period. benaki.gr Toy Museum The eclectic turreted 19th-century villa housing this museum is as enchanting as the collection itself. The latter includes children’s toys from antiquity to modern times assembled by Greek collector Maria Argyriadi from all over the world. Its 20,000 exhibits include handmade traditional toys, fairground and commercially produced toys and board games. Look out too for mechanical monkeys, puppets and finely dressed porcelain dolls. The European collection includes urban and folk toys between the 18th and 20th centuries, mostly from England, France and Germany, as well as European-made dolls dressed in traditional costume from different areas of Greece. benaki.gr Museum of Islamic Art This outstanding museum, accommodated in two listed mansions in Athens’ Keramikos quarter, houses one of the world’s most important collections of Islamic art, including examples from India, Persia, Mesopotamia, Asia Minor, Arabia and Spain. Its four floors display over 8,000 works of art, from ceramics to gold, metalwork, textiles and jewellery, as well as a marble-floored reception room from a 17th-century Cairo mansion. It’s all arranged chronologically. The basement exposes part of the ancient city wall of Athens, uncovered during work to preserve the two mansions, while the top floor houses a small cafe. benaki.gr

As we launch our Green Traveller's Guide to Athens, Clare Hargreaves picks out a selection of restaurants, cafés and markets to find the best local food and drink in the Greek Capital. Whether you’re after a humble oregano-sprinkled souvlaki takeaway, a ‘proper’ Greek coffee in a streetside cafe, or a Michelin-starred blow-out in an elegant rooftop restaurant with Acropolis views, Athens has it all. The city’s cuisine has risen dramatically in recent years, with many chefs putting creative twists on Greek classics. Smart new galleries are also upping their game by offering first-rate food in stylish courtyard cafe-restaurants. The dramatic improvement in Greek wines has also spawned some top-class wine bars where you can taste the country’s best and pair them with artisan Greek cuisine. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Athens: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places to eat in Athens Kostas, Agias Irinis Square (pictured above: Kostas preparing souvalaki) It’s little more than a hole in the wall, but this unassuming-looking place in gorgeous Agia Irini square, is a dearly loved Athenian institution. Owner Kostas grills up tasty pork souvlaki and bifteki (hamburger) and serves them in pittas with freshly cut tomatoes and herbs. They’re doused with a splash of yoghurt and a spoonful of spicy tomato sauce for which the recipe is a tightly guarded secret. Kostas closes at 5pm or when the food runs out, so get there early to ensure you don’t miss out on one of Athens’ tastiest takeaways. Basil & Elise Goulandris Foundation Café-Restaurant Athens seems to have a knack at producing superb cafe-restaurants in its newer art galleries. This cafe, in a tranquil courtyard garden, combines soothing decor with simple, contemporary dishes that are delivered with aplomb by the place’s enthusiastic team. Well-priced mains might be Strifoudi Cretan pasta with spinach and feta, or Ravioli filled with anthotiroscheese served with sun-dried tomato and orange pesto. There’s an all-day breakfast, including Kagianas (Scrambled eggs with grilled cherry tomatoes and feta) on toast. Leave room for the puds, especially the Kaimaki mastic ice cream with homemade rose petal jam. goulandris.gr Little Kook Tea & Coffee Room To call this a tea and coffee room understates its magnificence. Yes, you can get both here, but the thing you come to this place in hip Psirri for is its fantastical decor which changes regularly. As you sip, you sit inside a crazy theatre set of over-the-top props, dolls and party streamers, and cafe staff dress to fit the theme too. Recent themes have included Mary Poppins and the Circus. Visit around Hallowe’en and you’ll rub elbows with skeletons, witches and spooky black umbrellas. Kids and instagrammers will love it. And the cake’s not bad either. Six D.O.G.S cafe Part cocktail bar, gig space and garden, this super-trendy joint in the heart of Monastiraki calls itself an all-day all-night cultural entertainment centre. Descend the steps into its vast multi-tiered garden and you enter a magical tardis-like oasis that feels a million miles from Athens’ hectic streets. Sip cocktails and listen to live music under the trees, or snuggle inside one of its indoor spaces for something more intimate. Come here for art exhibitions, club nights, home-made pies, and much more. sixdogs.gr By the Glass Greek wines have come on in leaps and bounds in recent decades, and this wine bar, tucked inside the Ralli Arcade next to the Russian Orthodox church, is a gorgeous place to sample some of the country’s best. Sit outside in the glitzy arcade, or perch at the slick hand-crafted bar inside to try some of the 200-odd wines available by the glass - thanks to Coravin, the gismo that extracts wine without disturbing the cork. Pair them with delicious island-hopping delicacies to make a meal of it, guided by the expert sommelier. Fabulous. bytheglass.gr Mono wine restaurant, Plaka At first glance you could mistake this half-inside-half-outside eaterie for your typical Plaka taverna. There’s stuffed vine leaves, moussaka and the usual local fish on the menu. But all these Greek classics are given a creative modern twist by chef-owner Vasilis Vasileiou, and paired with some superb Greek wines. So vineleaves are stuffed with calamari and lemongrass, topped with an egg and lemon foam (rather than the usual sauce). Moussaka is filled not with the customary lamb mince but with braised oxtail, and grouper fish is cooked Tandoori style, with turmeric, dates and fennel. Different. monorestaurant.gr Malotira Deli The big thing in this super little deli, named after a Cretan herb used to make mountain tea, is olive oil. Not only are the oils organic and extra-virgin, and sourced direct from small family producers, but they’re proven to be high in health-giving polyphenols too. Errika, its knowledgable Cretan-born co-owner, gets you tasting oils you’ll never find in a supermarket - from Corfu-produced The Governor to Cretan Pamako (meaning ‘medicine’). Other goodies include graviera cheese sourced directly from its makers in Rethymnon in Crete, sikomaida (fig cake) from Corfu, and liqueurs from mastic sourced from Chios. malotira.gr Kokkion Handmade Ice Cream If you’ve not yet tried kaimaki, this tiny outlet in Monastiraki selling home-made ice cream is a good place to do so. Kaimaki, which gets its name from the word “kaymak” meaning cream, is a rich, chewy ice cream that’s made from buffalo milk and flavoured with mastic resin from trees on the island of Chios. Its chewiness comes from sahlep powder, which is ground from the roots of wild orchids. Kokkion’s flavours change with the seasons, but popular ones include bitter chocolate and passionfruit, salted caramel, and mascarpone with bergamot and grape molasses. kokkion.com Krinos Dieters and healthy eaters look away. This attractive old-style cafeteria behind the central market has been dishing out traditional Greek loukoumadhes (dough puffs, or doughnuts) and rizogalo(rice pudding) since 1922 and judging by the queues isn’t showing any signs of losing its appeal. The loukoumadhes, made to the same recipe for nearly a century, are soaked in honey-citrus syrup and dusted in cinammon and are surprisingly addictive. Take them away or eat in, and as you do so, marvel at the decor of this wonderful building which before being a puff pantry was Athens’ first pharmacy. Benaki Museum Cafe It’s difficult to say which is better in this roof-top cafe, the food or the view across the National Gardens - both are superb. The must-eat is the dolmadakia kassiotika, tiny stuffed vine leaves prepared the way they are on the Dodecannese island of Kasos. For something more filling, dig into a hefty slice of home-made vegetable pie, served with leaves. The cafe is open the same hours as the museum, which means the only evening it’s open (until midnight) is Thursday. As you eat, rub shoulders with the well-heeled folk of Kolonaki, the district in which the museum stands. benaki.org Central Markets/Varvakios Agora If you’re the remotest bit foodie, a visit to Athens’ central food markets, is a must. Since 1886 they’ve been housed in a majestic wrought-iron market hall. If the meat alleys, with their rows of suspended animal carcases (Greeks, unlike Brits, aren’t afraid to acknowledge that when they eat meat they eat animals), prove too much for your nostrils, test your piscine knowledge in the gleaming fish area or continue to the stalls heaped with colourful fruit and veg. Stalls spill out into the surrounding streets, piled high with picturesque pyramids of spices, olives and nuts and dried herbs. Seycheles This super-popular mezedopoleio is housed in a 19th-century neo-classical mansion in Metaxourgeio, once famous for its silk factory, and in fine weather tables spill out onto the pavements and square beyond. Don’t be misled by the name: the dishes here are as Greek as you’ll get, using tip-top ingredients carefully sourced from small producers by owners Ana and Fotis. That doesn’t mean they’re not full of suprises though. So look out for octopus is cooked in red wine and served on a bed of creamed peas, artisan cheeses from all over Greece, and smoked swordfish and tuna from Kalymnos island. seycheles.gr Mavro Provato The name of this massively popular restaurant in Pangrati means ‘black sheep’. And whether for its food or its decor, it certainly stands out from the herd. Grab a table under the orange trees outside or in its stylish black and white interior, and enjoy beautifully-priced mezedhes made with top quality ingredients sourced from all over Greece. So there’s everything from xinomizithra cream cheese from Crete to beef sausage smoked over beech wood from Drama. Another must-eat is its Minor Asian inspired hunkar begenti, tomato-stewed beef served with a smoked aubergine puree. It’s all paired with Greek regional wines. mauroprovato.gr Avli taverna Blink and you’ll miss the entrance to this tiny restaurant inside a slither-sized alley off Ayiou Dimitriou street in funky Psirri. Its white-washed walls, sky-blue shutters and outdoor seating (complete with stray cats) help you imagine you’re on a Cycladic island. The big thing here is the keftedakia - fried meatballs - crunchy on the outside, silky soft on the inside, and reputed to be the best in Athens. If you don’t fancy those, there’s omelette with pastourma ham and cheese. Given the approachable prices, it’s no suprise it has a young clientele. Get there at opening time to bag a seat. Hurry Up Street Food van, Terpsitheas square, Piraeus Greek foodies know Harris Bonanos from his appearances at the Athens Street Food Festival //you could put a link to it here - I wanted to include but ran out of space and info//, and then on Greek MasterChef. Now the chef has turned his hand to producing gastronomic street food from his pistachio-and-white Hurry Up vintage van in a tranquil square in the port of Piraeus. Sit at one of the large tables, or perch at a wine barrel, to enjoy his gourmet takeaways that blend Cuban, Japanese and Greek flavours. Sunday brunches are a highlight. But the must-eat at any time of day is his fluffy bao steamed buns, filled with anything from roast beef and caramelised onions to shrimps and chipotle jam. facebook.com/HurryUpStreetFood

As we launch our Green Traveller's Guide to Athens, Clare Hargreaves picks out a selection of characterful places to stay in the Greek Capital. Athens’ hotels have undergone a revolution in recent years as industrial buildings have been repurposed by world-famous architects to create stunning boutique hotels housing eye-catching contemporary art. Natural materials such as brick, marble, and wood create gorgeous soothing interiors, and Art Nouveau buildings have also been given new life and furnished in style. If you want small, there are plenty of vintage-styled hideaways too. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Athens: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places to stay in Athens 18 Micon Street (foyer pictured above) Another hotel in Psyrri that has harnessed its industrial past to create a beautiful modern space housing 15 beautiful rooms, each completely different. The building was once the storehouse of Mr Kostas, one of the first tool traders in Athens, and the hotel has cleverly honoured its history through its combined use of brick, cement and wood. Designer fabrics and wallpapers, along with ‘antique’ patterned tiles, complete the harmony. Honeymooners will want to bag the penthouse room at the top from where you can see the Acropolis from bed. There are rooms for families too. 18miconstr.com Athens 4 This is the sister hotel of 18 Micon Street, located a few streets away in a district that’s famous for its textile factories. As at 18 Micon Street, rooms make a nod to their industrial past - here mainly through their use of textiles and wallpapers. At the top there’s a loft with a jacuzzi and private terrace, and superior suites also have balconies from where you can take in the views. Belter breakfasts, which include freshly squeezed orange juice, pasteli (sesame brittle) and divine homemade cakes and pies, are served in the soothingly spacious grey-marble-floored lobby. athens4.com The Artist Athens Right in the heart of Athens city centre (in the Psyrri area - amid street artists, musicians and Athens cafe culture), new life has been breathed in an industrial building (once home to graffiti artists) turning it into a stylish urban artistic abode with lounge bar, restaurant and roof garden bar with views of the Acropolis. Close to Monastiraki Square, Monastiraki Flea Market, and the National Theatre of Greece. theartistathens.com The Foundry Suites Athens Not many Athens apartment-hotels can boast views of the Acropolis and fabulous industrial-chic interiors as well as a rooftop garden where you can picnic. But The Foundry, in the fashionable central neighbourhood of Psyrri, is not your everyday apartment-hotel. The building housing its 12 luxury suites was originally built in 1930 as a font foundry, before later being turned into a printing press and then a cultural centre. Today relics of its industrial past are skilfully married with contemporary furnishings and wallpapers, providing a stylish oasis of tranquility in the heart of this hectic metropolis. thefoundrysuitesathens.com Urban Frame Hotel A stylish new boutique hotel in the heart of the Plaka close to Syntagma square, Ermou street and the national garden. Think chic wood, vases and bowls, designer furniture and crisp white bed sheets. Light-flooded airy double rooms have large windows - most overlook the buzzing streets, though some premium and deluxe rooms have wonderful views of the Acropolis. Bike rental available. urbanframehotel.com A77 Suites by Andronis A collection of six modern suites in Psyri in the heart of historic Athens with private balcony views of the Acropolis, and close to Syntagma Square, Roman Agora and Ermou Street. The stylish rooms have large double beds and walk-in showers. a77suitesbyandronis.com Ergon House Style-loving foodies will love this sleek contemporary hotel that combines accommodation, a restaurant and a market. Ergon’s owners run a string of delis, one of which is on the ground floor agora (market), selling everything from fresh fish to herbs and cheeses. The agora also houses a restaurant which serves breakfast (sweet and savoury pies) and during the day assorted Greek meze. Cookery classes are occasionally held here too. Upstairs rooms are furnished in soothing natural materials, including plenty of wood and grey marble. There’s also a gym and a roof terrace where you can picnic while viewing the Parthenon. house.ergonfoods.com Perianth Hotel The creators of this central hotel have used a lovely 1930s building to produce a stunning Modernist-style 38-room hotel, using natural materials such as metal, wood and marble alongside carefully chosen items of modern art. Bathrooms are in black marble. Some rooms also have balconies offering views over the Acropolis, and the two-bedroom penthouse suite even has a private jacuzzi and swimming pool. The lobby has a calming waterfall, which will get you in the mood to join meditation and yoga classes at the in-house Zen Center Athens for free. There’s also an Italian restaurant called Il Baretto. perianthhotel.com Emporikon After half a century of neglect, this well-loved Art Nouveau building in Agias Irinis Square, one of Athens’ prettiest, has recently been restored and brought back to life as a comfortable hotel. Inside are 14 bedrooms that blend contemporary furnishings with the building’s historic architectural features. If you can afford it, splash out on the superior room with a balcony looking out to the Acropolis. The position of the hotel couldn’t be better, being within easy walking distance of Syntagma Square, the Acropolis and the pedestrian shopping street of Aiolou. emporikonathenshotel.com AthensWas Housed in a modern apartment building bang opposite the Acropolis and its new museum, this design hotel is a homage to mid-century Modernism. Look out for Elieen Gray divans, Le Corbusier armchairs and soft lighting by Flos, plus wood-panelled walls, graphic-print carpets and lashings of grey marble. Calming, minimalist rooms all have worktables and furnished balconies, while suites on the 5th and 6th floors have Acropolis views. The 7th floor houses the hotel’s rooftop Sense Restaurant serving modern Greek cuisine from an open kitchen as you enjoy the panoramic views. Expect belter breakfasts, in the lobby, too. athenswas.gr in[n]Athens The handsome white building housing this hotel, built around a pretty tree-filled courtyard and hidden away at the end of a shopping arcade, is just minutes from Syntagma Square and hectic Ermou Street, but you’d never guess it once inside its 37 clean-lined rooms. All are individually styled in soothing fabrics and natural wood floors and furnishings, while bathrooms are crafted in Greek marble and steel, combining design and comfort. Mattresses and linens are by Cocomat and Simmons and toiletries by Zealots of Nature. Eat breakfast under the lemon tree in the courtyard or in the industrial-chic lobby. innathens.com

My selection of hotels, gîtes, treehouses, agriturismos and other lovely places to stay with natural swimming pools in the UK, France, Italy, Spain, Portugal and Austria. [This featured was originally posted in 2013 and has been updated in 2022] Compared with a chlorinated swimming pool, a dip in a natural pool can feel much more refreshing. Designs vary, but they generally all work on the same premise: a wall separates a foil- or rubber-lined swimming area from an aquatic plant garden, whose marsh plants and sand act as a natural filter for oxygenising and cleaning the water. Because they are designed in tune with the natural environment, they are wildlife-friendly, so don't be surprised if, while you're relaxing poolside, you see dragonflies and butterflies flittering across the water. Thankfully, hoteliers are increasingly installing these natural, eco-friendly alternatives. Here are some of my favourites: Jump in, the water's lovely! Il Paluffo, Tuscany, Italy A collection of small villas and B&Bs in a 15th Century historic building in the Chianti hills in Tuscany, not far from Florence and Siena. Along with the wonderful natural swimming pool, the buildings are managed in an eco-sensitive manner: electricity is produced by a 12kWatt photovoltaic system; heating and cooling systems use renewable energy: there are heat pumps powered by photovoltaic panels, hot water heating using thermal solar panel and pellet boilers in addition to the heating system; rainwater is collected and used for irrigation, while waste water is regenerated through herbal purification methods. paluffo.com Agroturismo Can Marti, Ibiza, Spain A beautiful, authentic and organic farmhouse in a quiet and idyllic spot in the unspoilt north of the island. This has long been a favourite of mine, a wonderfully peacefully part of the island, far from the crowds of Ibiza Town and near some great beaches. See our full review in our Green Places to Stay section: Review of Can Marti Le Camp, Southwest France A luxury six-tented camp in an oak woodland overlooking the green valley of the Aveyron, an hour northwest of Toulouse. Each tent is on a raised wooden platform and every pitch has been carefully chosen "for its views, privacy and mood". The 45m² Giant Yurt is great for larger families or groups. Pride of place is the glorious 20m-long natural swimming pool. Expect a large buffet breakfast which includes locally sourced fruit, jams, saucisson, honeys, and cheeses. Owners will also help book and plan the journey of anyone who wishes to arrive by train and offer a free transfer to and from the local train stations.  They also provide bicycles for guests to borrow free of charge, including trailers and tagalongs for kids. lecamp.co.uk Orion B&B & Treehouses, Saint-Paul de Vence, France Close to the stunning medieval fortified village of St Paul de Vence inland from the French Riviera, Orion's tree houses are one of the most stylish we've visited. The stand-alone tree-houses are built among oak and pine trees, 30m-high, and are reached via an outer wooden staircase where you climb up to a large double bedroom and ensuite bathroom. The treehouses come in all shapes and sizes, from the double-decker Colonel Hathi to the family-friendly combination of King Louis and Mowgli, where kids can have their own little adventure. There's also an additional cottage for those looking to keep their feet on solid ground. Back on terra firma, you can relax by a gorgeous natural outdoor pool and there is also an eco-friendly sauna where you can treat yourself to a Turkish Bath. See our full review of Orion in our Green Places to Stay section: Review of Orion B&B Chaumarty, French Pyrenees An eco-gîte south of Toulouse, southwest France. Irises, waterlilies, and papyrus line the water’s edge of the 42 square metre natural pool “bassin de baignade” (below), plus there’s a diving board and a smaller pool for children. Adjacent to the pools is a large terrace where you can lay your towels and admire the mountain panorama all day long. chaumarty.com The Scarlet Hotel, Cornwall, England A lovely, smart hotel built to high eco standards, overlooking the sea on the Cornish coast. Be pampered in the luxurious Ayurvedic spa, sample delicious locally sourced food or take some time out to reflect and enjoy the views from the outdoor natural swimming pool. scarlethotel.co.uk La Jument Verte, Aix-les-Bains, France A guesthouse /country inn on a 17th Century Farm, above the spa town of Aix-Les-Bains, and the beautiful Lake du Bourget, in the Regional Natural Park of the Bauges. la-jument-verte.com Mas Ardèvol, Falset, Costa Daurada, Catalonia, Spain An idyllic rural house amid ten hectares of land in the green hills above Porrera. It specialises in traditional Priorat food, including fresh produce from their own vegetable garden, oil, and wine. There are two rooms inside the main house while outside there are three spacious thick-walled rooms and a natural swimming pool - perfect for a plunge on a hot day. Indulge in a variety of treatments, including a massage and body moisturising using natural ingredients, such as organic olives and hazelnuts. If you can tear yourself aware from the tranquility, nearby are the sundial route in Porrera and the Montsant mountain range. masardevol.net Muxima, Algarve, Portugal A single storey farmstead that Jelle and his wife, Paula, have turned into a splendid rural guesthouse. About an hour's drive north-west of Faro, Muxima is technically in the Algarve but, according to Jorge, the lifestyle here is more like that in the Alentejo, so he calls it the "Alengarve". muxima-aljezur.com Yoga at Moses, Oleiros, Portugal Spend a week here on the edge of wilderness, in the beautifully restored home of the Winter family, beneath the village of Amieira, Oleiros. Practice yoga daily, walk in forests, swim and mud bathe in rivers, breath mountain air, eat deliciously, sleep deeply. Retreat. valedemoses.com Useful Information: British Association for Natural Swimming Pools Outdoor Swimming Society wildswimming.co.uk

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to the Broads, Jackie King picks out a selection of walking, cycling and boat trips in this popular waterland in the east of England. The Broads is the perfect environment for activities of all kinds, and the great thing is you can explore on the water, on foot or by bicycle. Even if you’re not permanently afloat you can get out on the water in numerous ways: hire a day boat or canoe, take a guided canoe tour of the region’s wildlife or take a skippered wooden dinghy for a spot of sailing. You can also explore The Broads on foot by way of marked paths through designated nature reserves – plus of course the long-distance Wherryman’s Way and Weaver’s Way pas through the region. Or just hire a bike and make the most of the relentlessly flat countryside. We’ve listed lots of the best – and greenest – alternatives – but the Broads Authority also has lots of information on where to hire bikes, canoes and boats, and indeed where best to take them. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to the Broads: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Outdoor Adventure Activities in the Broads Wherryman’s Way This 35-mile, mostly riverside footpath follows the course of the river Yare from just outside Norwich to Breydon Water and Great Yarmouth, and is one of the Broads’ best routes for walking, cycling, or for mixing these with a bit of boating. wherrymansway.net Weavers Way The Weavers Way runs for around 60 miles from Cromer in North Norfolk to Great Yarmouth, and as such takes in some of the best and most scenic Broads walking in its latter stages, from Stalham down to Hickling Broad, Thurne, Halvergate and beyond, where it joins the Wherryman’s Way. norfolk.gov.uk/out-and-about-in-norfolk/norfolk-trails Broads Tours Soak up the Broads from the water on a Broads Tours river trip, with entertaining commentary and refreshments provided throughout the day. Or take in the wetlands at your own pace by hiring a boat for the day. Broad Tours also hold regular events, such as nature trails and evening music cruises. broads.co.uk Canoe hire Much the best way to see the Broads is by boat, and the quietest and least impactful way is either under sail or by canoe. Apart from the CanoeMan, who rents canoes as well as offering guided canoe trails, there are lots of places to rent canoes, by the hour, half-day, day or more – at Outney Meadow campsite in Bungay, Waveney River Centre, Hickling Broad, in Martham, Potter Heigham, Salhouse Broad, Sutton Staithe, Bank Boats in Wayford Bridge and Wroxham. Pick up a leaflet from a Broads Information Centre. canoethebroads.co.uk The CanoeMan Mark Wilkinson was a financial advisor in a previous life; now he spends his time paddling the Broads and hosting a wide range of mainly canoe-based activities, from straight canoe rental to guided canoe trails, bushcraft experiences, overnight canoe trips sleeping at his carefully positioned bankside teepees, even river snorkelling and Swallows & Amazons adventures for kids. They also have bikes for rent from their office by the bridge in Wroxham. thecanoeman.com For more information on characterful places to stay, local food and drink, and nearby visitor attractions, see our Green Traveller's Guide to the Broads

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to the Broads, Jackie King picks out a selection of cafés, delis, pubs and restaurants in and around the Broads. East Anglia is in the throes of a mini food revolution, and Norfolk is at the heart of it, with increasing numbers of places celebrating the best of the rich store of local produce the area has to offer, from locally caught fish, meat reared organically on nearby farms to the full breadth of the arable produce that defines the landscape of the county. No one would pretend that the Broads is at the heart of all this, and its reputation for food has suffered over the years, with offerings in some riverside pubs not living up to the magic of their settings. But that has begun to change, and it hasn’t been hard to recommend some fabulous places run by people not just with a passion for food and drink, but with a mission to bring the best of the local area to the masses. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to the Broads: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places to eat local food and drink in the Broads Farm to Fork and Fish The second of the two farm shops of the Mutimer family business over in Swannington, this sells fantastically fresh local produce, with pork and lamb from the Mutimer’s own herds, beef from nearby Hevingham and free-roaming chickens from Hindolveston up towards the north coast. They’ve won numerous awards, including a 2008 ‘Beautiful Farm’ award for ‘farms that aim to give something back to environment’, as well as gaining more recent EDP recognition for their food and, in particular, their sausages. Worth a visit both for picnic supplies or if you’re self-catering. farmtoforkandfish.co.uk The Galley Horning would be a lesser place without this well-stocked deli and café, which not only sells a high quality selection of deli items and ready-cooked meals, it also somehow packs in a giftshop and a tearoom that also displays and sells well-chosen work by local artists and photographers. Wendy Timewell bakes up fab cakes, sausage rolls and homemade “Hornish’ pasties – perfect for picnics and on-board lunches – and everywhere the focus in on Norfolk cheeses and other local produce. thegalley-horning.co.uk Bure River Cottage Restaurant Horning’s not short on places to eat, but Abbie and Nigel’s restaurant goes the extra mile – it’s arguably one of the best alternatives for miles round, serving high-quality fish and seafood from a blackboard menu that features changing specials like Brancaster or Morston mussels, local crab and lobster, and great locally smoked salmon. Great service too, from staff who seem to genuinely like working here. Best to book during the summer, when it can get busy. burerivercottagerestaurant.co.uk The Recruiting Sergeant The flagship eatery of Matthew and Nicola Colchester, who own – and have revitalised – a number of pubs in the area, the Recruiting Sergeant caters for both hearty appetites and grazing, with a snack menu at lunchtime – great fishcakes, steak sandwiches, and suchlike – along with a full menu at lunch or dinner. Choose from substantial starters like scallops with pork belly and grilled sardines, and mains like fresh local mackerel with salad nicoise, excellent skate wing, or just fish pie or a burger. Beers are mostly local (Suffolk and Norfolk ales), and service friendly and efficient, and most of the ingredients are not only fresh but sourced locally – some of them from the sister business, Farm to Fork & Fish, across the road. recruitingsergeant.co.uk The Lavender House Brundall is a clinker-and-tar, boaty sort of village, mainly focused on the river, and is not the sort of place you’d expect to find a restaurant like Lavender House, where chef Richard Hughes has been cooking complex yet hearty food for a decade in a lovely sixteenth-century beamed and thatched setting. This is one of Norfolk’s finest fine dining restaurants, indeed the style of cooking here has been described as ‘Modern Norfolk’ utilising the best local produce – local lamb, local beef, crabs and other seafood from Cley and the north coast – in culinary skilful and innovative ways. For all that, it’s a relaxing and welcoming place to eat – and the prices, while high, are not outlandish. thelavenderhouse.co.uk The Waveney Inn The Waveney River Centre’s pub, the Waveney Inn, is an honest, family-friendly boozer, and something of a Godsend given you’re quite a way form the nearest settlement. They do food noon–2.30pm and 6pm–9pm, and there’s outside seating, a separate games room and they have quiz nights and occasional live music. waveneyrivercentre.co.uk/park-marina/park-facilities/waveney-inn Wroxham Barns About a mile north of Hoveton, it’s an easy twenty-minute walk from the railway station to Wroxham Barns, a popular local attraction that has plenty for children and adults alike – various craft shops and galleries, a food store, garden centre and micro-brewery, Uncle Stuart’s, selling its products direct (along with other local beers). It’s also home to a small “junior farm” with goats, sheep, cows, pigs with lamb Feeding during the half-term school holidays and donkeys to pet and feed, a small funfair and mini golf course, and an excellent restaurant which is one of the area’s best bets for lunch, with an emphasis on quality local produce – one of several sustainable aspects of the business, which also includes water-less urinals and excellent recycling. Overall, a great example of a mainstream business that’s is trying hard to be both sustainable and successful. wroxhambarns.co.uk For more information on characterful places to stay, nearby visitor attractions and activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to the Broads

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to the New Forest, Florence Fortnam picks out a selection of Museums, exhibitions, farms and gardens in this glorious protected area in the south of England. Fascinating museums and exhibitions, lessons on nature conservation and lush green gardens – the New Forest National Park has something to offer every member of the family. At around 900 years old, the New Forest has a unique and interesting history dating back to William the Conquerer and there's no better way to discover the past than by exploring one of the many museums and exhibitions hidden within the park itself. Alternatively, meander through acres of protected parks and gardens or hop on the world's oldest pier railway line to Southampton. Whether you're learning about wildlife conservation in the New Forest Centre or enjoying the scenery from an open top bus, there's always something to do or see. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to the New Forest: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places of interest in the New Forest Exbury Gardens Discover Exbury’s hidden beauty as you explore this 200-acre site, famed for its flora and fauna including Rothschild Collection of rhododendrons, azaeleas, camellias and rare trees and shrubs. A steam railway line follows a picturesque circular route through the gardens along the ‘Rhododendron Line’ and there’s also the chance to hire a chauffeur driven buggy for private tours. If you tire of exploring, a number of interesting exhibitions are available to visit, including the story behind the construction of the Rhododendron Line. exbury.co.uk Paulton's Park This family theme park is home not only to exciting thrill rides and activities, but also a wide range of exotic birds and mammals and a collection of beautiful gardens. Children can learn about everything from emus to meerkats while the main garden, once the site of Paulton's house, boasts magnificent cedar trees that are over 160 years old as well as a network of paths only discovered during a recent renovation. The tranquil lake is fed by a tributary of the River Test, and is home to a surprising amount of wildlife. paultonspark.co.uk Hurst Castle Jutting out at the seaward end of the shingle spit that stretches 1.5 miles from Milford-on-Sea, Hurst Castle has a uniquely rich history. Originally built by Henry VIII it was once used to imprison Charles I, as well as being used as a prison and garrison during WWII. Hurst is now open to the public and offers many interesting exhibitions including the Garrison Theatre and the Trinity House lighthouse exhibition where you’ll learn more about the castle’s interesting past. What's more, the views of Milford-on-Sea and the surrounding coastline from the top centre keep are spectacular. hurstcastle.co.uk National Motor Museum At the world-renowned Motor Museum, you'll discover a collection of over 250 vehicles from every motoring era in history. There's also the chance to explore the science behind motor technology or enjoy the ‘Wheels’ exhibitions, where you’ll ride through motoring history, from the invention of the wheel to transport possibilities in the future. New to 2011, the 'Feats of Endurance' exhibition will also showcase vehicles that have braved extreme conditions around the globe and survived. The multi award-winning Jack Truck 1930s garage replica is a must see, having been lovingly created over the last 25 years. beaulieu.co.uk/attractions/national-motor-museum Eling Tide Mill Visit the only fully working and productive tide mill in the UK, producing flour using a tradition dating back some 900 years. Perched on the edge of Southampton Water, the site was abandoned in the 1940s but was restored in 1975 and now exists as both a working mill and a museum paying tribute to its industrial heritage. If you’re hoping to catch them milling, check the website for milling times. elingexperience.co.uk New Forest Centre In the heart of the National Park, the New Forest Centre is packed full of displays and activities. The New Forest Museum provides information on many aspects of the Park, from its geology and history to its commitments to wildlife and conservation. For children, the interactive family fun tree exhibition allows them to discover more about the park’s animal inhabitants while the New Forest gallery has a year round exhibition programme. The New Forest Centre is a must see as a first stop for visitors. newforestcentre.org.uk Longdown Activity Farm Great for children and animal lovers alike, Longdown Activity Farm lets visitors join in with their daily schedule of activities that includes feeding kid goats, calves and ducks, meeting the pigs, and getting to cuddle with baby rabbits, chicks and piglets at the baby animal encounter. Tractor and trailer rides are a great way to spend the afternoon while the farm shop offers locally-sourced Hampshire produce including everything from free-range meat and eggs to local honey and ground flour from the Eling Tide Mill. longdownfarm.co.uk New Forest Tour While it may be a great form of public transport, the New Forest Tour is also a great way to see the National Park. Relax as the bus ventures past magnificent heathland and woodland, then hop off whenever you feel like it to explore further. On-board commentary will provide information on all the important sites you pass, and you’ll be given a guide showing a wide variety of fantastic cycle routes. The tour runs every day during the summer months and even has space for several bicycles on board. thenewforesttour.info Hythe Ferry & Pier Railway Discover a little more of the New Forest's history with the Hythe Ferry and Pier Railway. Together, they link the Hampshire village of Hythe with Southampton, running every half hour, seven days a week. The railway is the oldest continually operating pier train in the world, having remained unchanged since the 1920s. Whether you choose to enjoy a boat trip or hop on the train, this is a great way to see the area surrounding the National Park. The pier also carries a walkway and cycle way. hytheferry.co.uk For information on characterful places to stay, nearby visitor attractions and activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to the New Forest

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Arnside & Silverdale, Jo Keeling picks out a selection of restaurants, cafés and markets to find the best local food and drink in this glorious Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. The AONB has a wide area from which to draw ingredients. From Morecambe Bay, come potted shrimps, salt-marsh lamb, freshly-foraged samphire and Port of Lancaster smoked salmon; from the southern lakes you can enjoy Hawkshead relishes, 28-day-aged beef and Cartmel sticky toffee pudding; while from Yorkshire and Lancashire, there’s Whitby scampi and a smorgasbord of tasty local cheeses. There are local heroes on your doorstep too - ask any local business where they source their food, the butcher at Silverdale, who rears his own herds of cattle nearby, always gets a mention. To help you get the best from your visit, we’ve picked out some of the best spots to sample local food, whether you’re after a boutique breakfast, a coffee and choice of 20 home baked cakes, locally-brewed ale or simple delights such as fish and chips on the Arnside pier. Tuck in! Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Arnside & Silverdale: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places to eat in Arnside & Silverdale Wolf House Kitchen Wolfhouse Kitchen (along with the cottages and galleries that cluster around this sun trap of a courtyard on the outskirts of Silverdale) is fast becoming a hub for tourists and locals. Kenny and Katy have recently taken over the eatery after a stint managing a cafe in Paris. Katy is a keen baker and often turns out up to 20 varieties of cake on the counter (many of which will sell out by 2pm!). The couple have ambitious plans, with a daily changing menu and an eclectic range of inventive dishes - all with a focus on simplicity and good quality, responsibly-sourced ingredients. They’ve even started opening for evening meals on Friday and Saturday. The cafe is particularly bike-friendly, with safe lock up and an electric bike charging point. TheWolfhouseKitchen Posh Sardine This cute little cafe and gift shop on the Arnside prom, with good wi-fi, friendly owners and cracking homemade cakes, is popular with tourists and locals alike - especially on a sunny day when you can soak up the views at brightly coloured tables outside. Owner Jane is a keen baker, who loves working with local ingredients. The shop is packed to the rafters with quirky souvenirs that make you smile, often produced by local artists; head downstairs for antiques. Posh-Sardine The Old Beetham Post Office A rather bubbly and welcoming couple has recently taken over Beetham’s charming old post office, built in 1881 according to the inscription above the door, and have since been busy renovating and transforming the upstairs with reclaimed wood, church pew seats, enamel lampshades and tubs of chalk paint. The result is a modern but homely tea room without a hint of chintz. The shop downstairs feels like a traditional village store - with all the provisions you could need for a picnic. TheOldBeethamPO Leighton Moss Visitor Centre Cafe Even if you can’t tell a tit from a blackbird, Leighton Moss is worth visiting for the cakes. In fact, you may remember them being eagerly devoured by the Autumnwatch team, when the BBC show based itself at the reserve in 2013. Local lady Anne Hawley bakes exclusively for the cafe and is kept rather busy by demand – arrive early to bag a slice of their famous lemon drizzle. Wherever possible, ingredients are sourced locally and the café is Taste Lancashire Quality Assured. Silverdale’s F & W Burrow and Son provides the meat; their fish is line-caught and albatross friendly; even their coffee focuses on bird welfare, grown in Nicaragua in the shaded canopy of the rainforest. There’s also a selection of hearty savoury dishes for breakfast and lunch - baked potatoes, sandwiches and salads. rspb.org.uk/reserves/guide/l/leightonmoss The Refreshment Room, Carnforth Station Carnforth was made famous as the railway station featured in Brief Encounter (1945), filmed at night towards the end of WWII so as not to interrupt train operations. It’s well worth stopping by platform 1 to peruse the station’s heritage centre and have a bite to eat in the Refreshment Room, restored to full 1940s splendor with nostalgic touches such as stacks of old trunks and suitcases, set memorabilia, a curved wooden bar and an old till. The cafe serves hearty sandwiches, all freshly prepared on site, as well as breakfast and baked potatoes. Check out their events calendar for regular jazz and swing performances. carnforthstation.co.uk The Albion The Albion has to have one of the most enviable pub views in the country. Sit out on the patio and you can watch a panorama over the viaduct and Lake District fells that changes colour by the minute. Built as a private house in c1810, the building was originally owned by a mariner and ship trader before the coming of the railway sounded the death knell for coastal trading and it was turned into a hotel and bar. There’s still a 200-year-old bell on the roof, which was once used to summon carriages in bad weather and warn of the incoming tide. The menu focuses on local specialities, such as salmon with local buttered samphire, potted Morecambe Bay shrimp, Lakeland lamb, Silverdale 28-day aged steak, Whitby scampi and Port of Lancaster smoked salmon. albionarnside.co.uk For ideas on nearby places to stay, local attractions and activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Arnside & Silverdale

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to the Peak District, Florence Fortnam picks out a selection of outdoor adventure activities in this glorious National Park in central England, including walking, cycling, horse riding, climbing and caving. One of the best ways to experience the Peak District National Park in full is simply to get out and explore - be it on foot, horseback, on two wheels, on a clifftop or underground. The Peak District National Park is packed full of cycle routes, walking trails and bridle paths (easily accessible by train) that cater for all levels of experience and ability. The 65+ miles of off-road trails and lanes make for some fantastic walking and cycling for beginners and experts alike, while horseriding enthusiasts can choose from a wide range of specialist trails and self-guided adventures. What's more, the national park has some of the best caving and climbing in the world, so if you're after a high-occtane activity the the Peak District is sure to have something to get your heart racing. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Travel Guide to The Peak District: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Activities in The Peak District Sally Mosley Guided Walks Experience the history and beauty of The Peak District National Park alongside a fully-qualified, experienced guide. The guided walks will explore some of the best landscapes the region has to offer, including the Ladybower Reservoir and Win Hill, a 9-mile walk overlooking Hope Valley and the Dark Peak landscape. Those with something a little more specific in mind can opt for one of the many themed walks, which range from brewery tours and food taste trails to a Poole's Cavern underground experience. How to get here by public transport: The closest railway station is Matlock. From there, take the 6.1 bus to Bakewell. Also nearby are Routes 68 and 680 on the National Cycle Network. sallymosley.co.uk Peak Walking Adventures Peak Walking Adventures offer guided hill and moorland walks with high quality interpretation of the special Peak District Environment, while having a minimal environmental impact. Cath's services provide people with the opportunity to experience this, who might not have the confidence to venture into the hills on their own. peakwalking.com Simply Walk Book a Simply Walk self-guided holiday and discover the Peak District at your own pace and in your own company. Soak up the scenery and relax in friendly, cosy B&Bs chosen for your budget. In the background we arrange your accommodation, provide your maps/directions and transport your luggage. Simple. simplywalk.co.uk Acclimbatize Acclimbatize offers authentic, adventurous experiences and technical training in a range of outdoor activities. Delivery is sensitively punctuated by environmental, social, and historical information relative to the activity and location. Daryl and the team strongly believe that by doing this their customers' experience of the Peak District National Park (and other areas they operate in) is greatly enhanced. How to get here by public transport: Matlock Railway Station is just one mile away. You can take the 6.1 bus from the station to Cromford. From there, follow Water Lane and you wil find Steep & Deep in the fork in the road. Also close by is Route 54 on the National Cycle Network. steep-deep.co.uk Beyond the Edge Beyond the Edge is a Peak District-based specialist mountain training company, offering a range of adventures, training, technical advice and consultancy. Through teaching technical skills, they offer clients inspiring and enriching experiences, sharing insights about the Peak’s wildlife and history that their clients are then able to pass on to others. beyondtheedge.co.uk For information on nearby characterful places to stay, local food and drink, and nearby visitor attractions, see our Green Traveller's Guide to the Peak District

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to the Northumberland National Park, Jackie King picks out a selection of outdoor adventure activities in this glorious protected area of northeast England. Kielder Water and the surrounding Forest Park present a rare and fascinating blend of natural and man-made landscapes. Here, you’ll find Northumberland’s ‘big six’: ospreys, pipistrelle bats, roe deer, otters and 50% of England’s native red squirrel population. Cycle routes abound. The rugged hills around Kielder are a mountain biker’s dream with trails exploring the areas’s bloody reiver history on exhilarating singletrack trails; the Sandstone Way passes pink coastal cliffs at Spittal, St Cuthbert’s Cave, and the mystical Simonside Hills, while the Hadrian’s cycleway meanders close to the wall and lets you dip into Roman history. Above it all, Northumberland’s Dark Sky Zone awaits. Book onto an event at Kielder Observatory or Battlesteads to learn more about deep sky observing, or simply take a flask of hot tea and a blanket to a nearby hillside and view galaxies, planets and (if you’re lucky) the aurora borealis. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Travel Guide to Northumberland National Park: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Outdoor activities in Northumberland National Park Kielder Water & Forest Park Kielder Water and the surrounding Forest Park present a rare and beautiful blend of natural and man-made landscapes. Amid Northern Europe's largest reservoir and England's biggest working forest, you'll find Northumberland's 'big six' species: breeding ospreys, 50% of England's native red squirrel population, pipistrelle bats, roe deer, salmon and otters. The damp conifer woodlands are also home to a rich wealth of mosses and lichens and an impressive bird population including barn owls, fieldfares, lapwings, redwings, goosanders and goldeneyes. The three visitors centres at Tower Knowe, Leaplish or Kielder Castle are a great base from which to explore and learn more about the area's history and rich biodiversity. visitkielder.com Leaplish Waterside Park Considering the vast scale of Kielder Water, it's can be hard to know where to start. Leaplish Waterside Park offers a great base from which to plan an adventure, especially for families, as everything is within easy reach. Start by enjoying a coffee with panoramic views of the lake at the Boat Inn restaurant and bar; board the Osprey Ferry for a tour of the reservoir; visit the Birds of Prey centre, which has one of the largest collections of owls, eagles, hawks, falcons and vultures in the north of England; or set out to walk or cycle along the Lakeside Way. The Park is also home to 50% of England's native red squirrel population and is the species last remaining stronghold. leaplish.co.uk Calvert Trust Kielder John Fryer Spedding founded The Calvert Trust in 1978, with a vision to help people with disabilities and their families get the most from the great outdoors. Kielder Water offers an exceptional array of activities, including an exhilarating high ropes course, archery, kayaking, climbing and abseiling, zip-wire and king-swing. A drop-in taster day is one of the best ways to experience everything on offer. They also have a hydrotherapy swimming pool, sauna and sensory room, which is open all year round. calvert-trust.org.uk/kielder Barnacre Alpacas In 2005 insurance broker Debbie Ribbon watched Full Circle, a documentary with Michael Palin, and fell in love with the idea of owning alpacas. Two years later, Debbie and her husband Paul left their office jobs to set up a Northumberland farm from scratch and are now the happy, hard-working owners of 140 alpacas. Buy soft alpaca wool mittens, cable knit baby booties and hand-felted jewellery from their onsite shop; or join a walk, where a you can meet and feed the alpacas with a member of the team and even take them on a memorable walk. Visit by appointment only. barnacre-alpacas.co.uk Northern Wilds Food Foraging The wild uplands and rich forests in the Northumberland National Park offer a wealth of opportunities for the keen-eyed forager. Take a half or full day foraging course with Linus and Louise from Northern Wilds – both passionate about embracing sustainable living and exploring the natural landscape – and you could find yourself munching on tree leaves, gathering wild garlic or sweet hawthorn buds, seeking out mushrooms on the forest floor or picking autumnal berries and nuts. After your foray, return to the Wild Food Wagon, a converted 4x4 military truck with a wood-fired rayburn, to feast on your finds. northernwilds.co.uk Fishing at Kielder and Fontburn The largest man-made lake in the UK, Kielder Water offers some 20 miles of shoreline and over 2,000 acres of open water to explore by boat, so it's an exhilarating place for both fly fishers and bait anglers to try their luck with the wild brown trout and resident rainbows. Nearby Fontburn Reservoir offers a smaller, family-friendly fishery as well as a well-stocked shop. The season runs from mid-March to mid-November and the waters are managed and stocked by Northumbrian Water; pick up your permit from Tower Knowe or Leaplish Visitor Centre. nwl.co.uk/your-home/leisure/go-fishing Northumbrian Earth “Something large and boring happened on the coast at Seahouses, and this is an opportunity to find out what and why”. So starts one of the imaginative introductions to a family geowalk with Dr Ian Kille, expert and enthusiast on all things geological in Northumberland. Take a walk “to investigate a pavement which has been sprinkled with fossilised sea-urchins-up-a-stick and mint humbugs” and find fossil zip-fasteners and polo mints, looking for pebble stories and taking massive steps of thousands of grandmothers each. Along with local providers Dr Kille can also help you plan an entire landscape-themed holiday. You could find yourself exploring the Whin Sill, a great slug of igneous rock on which Bamburgh Castle, Lindisfarne and Hadrian's Wall were strategically placed, investigating the area's industrial archaeology and finding out why the rich biodiversity of the area is linked to the rocks underlying it. northumbrianearth.co.uk For more information on characterful places to stay, local food and drink, and nearby visitor attractions, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Northumberland National Park

There are lots of ways to travel from the North of England to Europe without flying – by ferry (either in a car or as a foot passenger), by coach or by train. The ferries head east from Newcastle and Hull across the North Sea to Amsterdam, Rotterdam or Hook of Holland from where you can head further into Europe. For detailed information to how to take public transport to the UK's ferry ports, see Green Traveller's Guide to travelling as a foot passenger from the UK to Europe. The coaches and trains both use the Channel Tunnel, so you have to factor in the time it takes to get south. If you take the train, once on the other side of the tunnel, you’re then connected to the European high-speed rail network, which can whizz you to many European capitals and beyond within hours. Our team has tried and tested many of the routes and so we have tried to summarise all the available options in this post based on our experience. Images: DFDS ferry from Newcastle to Amsterdam From the North of England to Europe by Ferry Ferry from Newcastle to Amsterdam The most northerly ferry route from England across the North Sea is from Newcastle to Amsterdam with DFDS, which takes foot passengers on its 17.00 overnight sailings. Journey time: 15.5 hours (overnight) Timings: Departs Newcastle 17:00, arrives Amsterdam 9.45am Facilities on board: bars, restaurants, casino, cinema and kids club Sleeper Cabins: take from 2-5 people, and, unlike most ferry operators that insist dogs are kept in cars or kennels, there are cabins suitable for up to two dogs to travel alongside their owners. Luggage: There’s no limit on luggage. Foot passengers can travel with a bicycle for a charge of £5 each way, and those without wheels can hop onto a coach on arrival at the port of Ijmuiden to travel the 25 miles into central Amsterdam. Other info: DFDS offers a ‘mini cruise’ option, which includes breaks in Amsterdam from five hours to two nights and include coach transfers at either end. From Amsterdam it’s easy to connect by rail to cities and regions across the Netherlands, as well as onto France, Belgium, Luxembourg, Germany, Italy, Switzerland and beyond. Book ferry from Newcastle to Amsterdam >> Ferry from Hull to Rotterdam (The Netherlands) P&O Ferries runs overnight ferries run between Hull and Rotterdam in the Netherlands Journey time: 12 hours (overnight) Timings: Hull to Rotterdam departs 20:30 and arrives Rotterdam at 8:15 (9:00 at weekends) Facilities: Restaurants, bars, cinemas, a casino and kids play area. Sleeper Cabins: options range from a standard cabin, with a toilet and shower room, to a sea view cabin or a club cabin with extra space and a television - sleeping between two and five people per cabin. Luggage: There’s no limit on luggage, and you can travel with a pet and a bicycle. Pets are charged at £22 each way and must travel in a kennel. Bicycles are carried free of charge but only one is allowed per foot passenger booking, so a group travelling with multiple bikes need to make a separate booking per bike. Some book the ferry solely as transport, while for others it’s the holiday in itself - a mini cruise out of Hull with P&O offers two nights on a ferry to and from Rotterdam with a day trip (which can be extended to an extra night) to explore the city between sailings. Themed mini breaks take this up a notch with entertainment such as live music or darts competitions onboard. Many passengers use Rotterdam as a gateway to Brussels, Antwerp or Paris but from either point, it is straight-forward to connect by rail to other destinations in the Netherlands and Belgium as well as Germany, Luxembourg  and France. Book ferry from Hull to Rotterdam >> Ferry from Harwich to Hook of Holland (The Netherlands) The shortest ferry route across the North Sea from the East of England is from Harwich in Essex with Stena Line to The Hook of Holland (known as ‘Hoek van Holland’). You can choose to go either during the day or overnight. Journey time: 7-8 hours (day time or overnight) Timings: departs Harwich at 9am, arrives Hook of Holland at 17.15; overnight service departs Harwich at 23:00, arrives Hook of Holland at 08:00. Facilities: restaurants and bars, a cinema and shops. Sleeper Cabins: on the overnight ferry you can choose from a range of cabins, from a single inside cabin with television and ensuite bathroom to cabins for two, three, four of five people, including the Comfort Class cabins with sea view and complimentary minibar. Luggage: There’s no limit on luggage. Foot passengers with bicycles pay an extra fee of £5 for adults and £2.50 for children and it costs £20 to bring your dog, which must travel in a kennel. Ferry sailing times and journey times can change so check the website for the latest times. Book ferry from Harwich to Hook of Holland >> From the North of England to Europe by Coach Travelling by coach is usually the cheapest way to travel to Europe from the North of England. National Express runs an intercity coach service from cities across the North of England including Liverpool, Manchester, Leeds, Carlisle and Nottingham that go via London Victoria where you can change to its international coach services which go to many European cities, including Calais, Paris, Lille, Amsterdam, Rotterdam, The Hague, Utrecht, Brussels, Antwerp and Bruges. Here are a few sample journey times: Newcastle to Paris: from 17.5 hours Newcastle to Amsterdam: from 20.5 hours Liverpool to Paris: from 19 hours Liverpool to Amsterdam: from 20.5 hours Manchester to Paris: from 14.5 hours Manchester to Amsterdam: from 19 hours Leeds to Paris: from 14.5 hours Leeds to Amsterdam: from 18 hours Nottingham to Paris: from 13 hours Nottingham to Amsterdam: from 16 hours Luggage: You can take a hand luggage bag and medium-sized bag for the hold weighing no more than 20kg. Only folding bicycles are accepted. Facilities: coaches are air conditioned and have wi-fi and USB charging points as well as toilets and while no refreshments are sold onboard, you can pack your own food and drink for the journey and stops are made at service stations to stock up on supplies. Another European coach operator is Flixbus, which now incorporates the Eurolines and Isilines bus companies, with services out of London Victoria. It offers more destinations than National Express and beyond - such as Vienna from London in 26 hours, Frankfurt in 13.5 hours and Prague in 24 hours. You can even travel as far as Bucharest - a 44-hour journey across six countries. The same luggage restrictions apply with one piece of hand luggage and one hold luggage up to 20kg, and bikes can be taken on the bike rack from E9 per journey. Buses have free wifi, charging sockets, toilets, and on some journeys food and drink is sold onboard in addition to the refreshment stops. The cost varies depending on the route, time of year and so on, so check the coach operator’s website for fares. From the North of England to Europe by Train Rail services to Europe run out of London St Pancras International Railway Station with Eurostar. Trains from many cities in the North of England (such as Wigan, Lincoln, Stockport, Preston and Manchester) are operated by Northern Rail and conveniently terminate at Kings Cross from where it’s just a few minutes walk across King’s Boulevard to St Pancras to catch the Eurostar to Europe. Here are a few journey times (times show the total duration of the trip, including allowing for sufficient time to walk from Kings Cross to the Eurostar check-in and for the 45-minute check-in time at Eurostar, based on appropriate times of connecting trains in to and out of London): Train from Newcastle to Paris: 6.5 hours Train from Newcastle to Amsterdam: 8 hours Train from Liverpool to Paris: 5.5 hours Train from Liverpool to Amsterdam: 7.5 hours Train from Manchester to Paris: 5.5 hours Train from Manchester to Amsterdam: 7 hours Train from Leeds to Paris: 5.5 hours Train from Leeds to Amsterdam: 7.5 hours Train from Nottingham to Paris: 5 hours Train from Nottingham to Amsterdam: 6.5 hours Eurostar runs direct services to Paris, Brussels, Amsterdam, Rotterdam, Lyon, Lille and Disneyland Paris (and during the summer a direct train to Avignon and Marseille and the winter there’s a direct Eurostar ski train service to Moûtiers, Aime-la-Plagne and Bourg-St-Maurice). You can buy through-tickets that start outside of London and go beyond Eurostar’s destinations travelling with local operators. If you are travelling with a bike, check which routes accept bikes. The fee is around £30. Dogs are not permitted on Eurostar except guide dogs. Train tickets provided by Trainline: ============ Please note: The information on this page aims to give you a reasonable idea of train and ferry routes, times and tickets, in order that hopefully there’s enough detail to know what's available, how to plan an overland journey and where to book tickets. The information was up to date at time of publication, but services do change from time to time and we cannot take responsibility for any errors or inaccuracies we provide. Always confirm details when you book with the relevant travel operator. If you are aware of any inaccuracies, we'd really appreciate being informed via our contact page so we can make the relevant changes to the information provided for the benefit of other travellers.

Monday 28 March: The UK Government has updated its advice for travelling abroad, see: Travel abroad during coronavirus, including the following checklist of what travellers need to do: Check foreign travel advice for all countries you will visit or travel through Arrange any COVID-19 tests you will need to enter the countries that you will travel to Find out how you can use the NHS COVID Pass to prove your vaccination status abroad. On 14 March, Which? published a guide to the latest information on Covid travel rules regarding passenger locator forms and travel tests. It says there are currently no countries on the red list – all countries and territories are now on the green list – so arrivals in to the UK don’t need to complete a passenger locator form, test or quarantine, regardless of vaccination status. But other destinations have their own rules on entry to visitors from the UK, so it is crucial that you check the foreign travel advice of other countries before you visit. 10 Jan 2022: Foreign holidays are now allowed again, but destinations have been categorised by the UK Government according to a 'traffic light' system of green, amber and red, which lists countries based on risk alongside the restrictions required for travel "to protect the public and the vaccine rollout from international COVID-19 and its variants". The traffic light system that was originally announced by the Government on the 7th May has been updated and the Green List now includes Australia, Austria, Balearic islands (Formentera, Ibiza, Mallorca, Menorca), Bermuda, Brunei, Bulgaria, Madeira, Malta, Croatia, Germany, Slovenia, Slovakia, Latvia, Romania, Norway, and several Caribbean islands, such as Anguilla, Antigua and Barbuda, Barbados, Cayman Islands, Dominica, and Turks and Caicos Islands. Travellers to the green list countries need to provide a negative test before they return as well as on day two after they land; they also have to to submit their contact details to health officials. The full Green List of Countries (as well as Amber and Red Lists) is listed on this page of the UK Government's website: Red, amber and green list rules for entering England Here is a summary of the conditions: Green: Before you travel back to England you must: take a COVID-19 test; book and pay for a day 2 COVID-19 test – to be taken after arrival in England; complete a passenger locator form. On arrival in England you must take a COVID-19 test on or before day 2 after you arrive. Children aged 4 and under do not need to take this test. You do not need to quarantine unless the test result is positive. You must quarantine if NHS Test & Trace informs you that you travelled to England with someone who has tested positive for COVID-19. Amber: The government says people should only travel to destinations on its amber list in "exceptional circumstances". Before you travel back to England you must: take a COVID-19 test; book and pay for day 2 and day 8 COVID-19 travel tests – to be taken after arrival in England; complete a passenger locator form. On arrival in England you must: quarantine at home or in the place you are staying for 10 days; take a COVID-19 test on or before day 2 and on or after day 8. Red: arrivals will be subject to restrictions currently in place for ‘red list’ countries which include a 10-day stay in a managed quarantine hotel, pre-departure testing and PCR testing on day 2 and 8. You must follow all of the above rules even if you have been vaccinated. Arrivals travelling from ‘red list’ countries should book a quarantine package before departure, and arrivals from ‘amber’ and ‘green’ countries are required to book test packages before travelling from one of the government’s approved list of providers. Key factors in the assessment included: the percentage of their population that have been vaccinated the rate of infection the prevalence of variants of concern the country’s access to reliable scientific data and genomic sequencing The Government says risks posed by variants remain significant, and restrictions for inbound passengers, such as 10-day managed quarantine, home quarantine, and stringent testing will remain in place - but will apply to people differently depending on whether the destination visited is categorised as ‘green’, ‘amber’ or ‘red’. The government says testing remains an essential part of protecting public health as restrictions begin to ease. Here's a checklist for before you go travelling: Check the latest Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office travel advice for your destination to find the latest entry requirements and local rules relating to Coronavirus. Check the Government’s traffic light list to find out what you need to do for your journey back to the UK. Take out travel insurance as soon as you book and check its cover for Coronavirus. Make sure all your travel documents are in order, e.g. your passport is valid for your travel dates and you’ve applied for the visas you need. Research the new measures that will be in place on your journey and in-destination, e.g. the rules around face coverings and social distancing. If you’re travelling to Europe, check what extra steps you need to take before you go at Brexit Advice for Travellers. == Browse Green Traveller to plan for when travel starts up again, here are just a few of our most popular pages and sections: Green Traveller's Guide to Green Spain Flight free routes from the UK How to travel to Spain without flying How to travel from Scotland to Europe without flying Green Traveller's Guide to the Peloponnese, Greece All Green Traveller's Guides

The Green Traveller Digest Welcome to my latest round up of news, features and comments on green travel. This newsletter is written by me, Richard Hammond, the founder of Green Traveller. Thanks to all the new subscribers who have joined this week – I've had over 60 new subscriptions since I put a call out on social media last week. Please do forward this newsletter to anyone you think might be interested in receiving it or ask them to subscribe via the link on the button below: New wildlife filming holidays launched Inspired by David Attenborough's latest natural history blockbuster The Green Planet? Specialist operator Wildlife Worldwide has for many years offered photography-focused wildlife holidays and now, for 2022, it has introduced two new workshops on videography, helping guests to capture the natural world on film. The two trips, to the Cairngorms and Finland’s Boreal forests, are based from lodges where guests have the best chance to see a range of wildlife. The daily workshop sessions concentrate on different techniques, including time-lapsing, camera trapping and drone filming, with one-on-one tuition. Both workshops are led by professional videographer Neil Aldridge. New train journeys in Europe The Independent's Simon Calder has written about lots of great new train journeys in Europe to look forward to (when things open up again), including: Trenitalia’s new Frecciarossa service from Paris to Turin and Milan Nightjet train from Paris to Salzburg and Vienna Sleeper/Regiojet night train due to start this summer from Brussels and Amsterdam to Berlin, Dresden and Prague Railcoop's plans to run from Bordeaux to Lyon from December (see map below) Iryo's service between Barcelona and Madrid SNCF's Ouigo Vitesse Classique from Paris to Lyon via Dijon, as well as from the French capital to Nantes on the Atlantic coast via either Tours or Le Mans. Stopover in Geneva with the Geneva City Pass If you're travelling by train through Geneva over the next month and are thinking about stopping over in the city for a night or two, keep an eye out for the city's Geneva City Pass – the city's tourism body is discounting it by 20% until 28 February 2022. The pass provides discounts of up to 50% on more than 50 activities as well as free public transport throughout the duration of the pass - for 24, 48 or 72 hours, with prices from £21. Off-grid places to stay Gemma Bowes writes in the Guardian about staying for a week in a remote Lake District cottage and provides a round-up of 15 of the best off-grid stays in the UK, including a straw cottage near Llandrindod Wells, coastguard cottages in Norfolk, and five wooden pods in Devon. New cycle routes connects Paris to the coast Andrew Eames writes in The Sunday Times about cycling along a stretch of a new 400km-long La Seine à Vélo cycle route, which connects Paris to the coast at either Le Havre or Deauville. Forest Holidays to open new park in the Brecon Beacons Forest Holidays has announced it will be opening a new site in December 2022 in the Brecon Beacons National Park, South Wales (it will be Forest Holidays’ 2nd Welsh location and 12th in the UK). The company says it's 40 "eco-sensitive" cabins will be in 400 acres of woodland in Garwnant and are designed "to integrate into the forest environment, keeping open access for wildlife, local communities and visitors". The multi-million-pound investment includes internal upgrades to the existing Visitor Centre and cafe as well as a new shop, new bike hire facilities and outdoor activities and experiences for day visitors and those staying overnight. Biophilia comes to the city Alice Fisher writes in the Guardian about the ‘Biophilic’ urban designers who are "bringing nature directly into our lives, improving the environment and our mental and physical health". The article includes news that the city of Birmingham is about to approve a plan to join Cities with Nature, which supports a more sustainable urban environment in cities worldwide. Inhabit Queen's Gardens, London to open in March Inhabit Queen's Gardens is the latest hotel from the Inhabit Hotels group (Inhabit's nearby urban wellness hotel on Southwick Street has been certified by Green Key). The new Queen's Gardens hotel, which is due to open in March, is across a crescent of mid-19th Century townhouses on a tree-lined square near Lancaster Gate. Its public areas include a 70-cover plant-heavy, meat-free menu restaurant and bar, lounge areas, and a library stocked with reads spanning wellness, meditation, social enterprise, holistic health, contemporary art, philosophy, local London and nature. The hotel has pledged to work with 100 social enterprises and small, socially-conscious businesses Expanding London's ultra-low emissions zone The Evening Standard reports that the Major of London, Sadiq Khan, has asked Transport for London to investigate the feasibility of four options to tackle air pollution in the capital. One of these options is to expand the ultra-low emission zone across all of Greater London's boroughs, another is to impose a daily levy to drive a petrol or diesel car in London. Shells open its first all-electric vehicle station Shell has opened its first solely electric vehicle charging station in the UK. The petrol and diesel pumps at the existing fuel station in Fulham, London have been replaced with ultra-rapid electric charge points. A global pilot, this is the first time the company has converted one of its existing sites to cater solely for electric vehicles. Protected Areas The long-awaited response from DEFRA to the Glover review includes proposals for a national landscapes partnership to bring together those responsible for managing England’s National Parks and AONBs. There will be more on this following DEFRA's call for a 12-week consultation period on its proposals and planned legislative changes, closing Sat 9 April. Citizen Science As part of its Great Somerset Wildlife Count initiative, Somerset Wildlife Trust is running a frog and toad spawn count until the end of March. Frogs and toads are important indicator species as they absorb water directly through their skin and are especially vulnerable to water pollutants and pesticides - changes to their numbers can signal environmental degradation and impacts of climate change. In praise of coach travel Coach travel is one of the greenest ways to travel long distance, and with leather seats, wifi, usb charging points for phones, it's no wonder coaches appeal to Gen Z and luxury coaches are the preferred mode of VIPs and Premier League footballers, says Lucy Shrimpton in the Independent. Are you a West Coaster? Visit Wester Ross, a voluntary tourism association based in Wester Ross in the Scottish Highlands, has launched a campaign designed to attract visitors to the islands - a UNESCO Biosphere. Are you a West Coaster? is a series of films featuring West Coasters who run businesses in Wester Ross and are looking to develop a more sustainable future. Future Transport Zones There’s no doubt about it - there’s a green modal shift going on in transport and tourism in cities and towns across the land. Following on from the work of the Local Sustainable Transport Fund a decade ago, local authorities are demonstrating renewed effort to improve sustainable transport in an effort to meet ambitions on climate change, including reaching the net zero target by 2030, reduce air pollution, support the green regeneration of urban environments, and reduce reliance on cars whilst taking pressure off public transport. One outcome of this has been the appearance of shared e-scooters and e-bikes that have been popping up in many of the UK’s towns and cities over the last 18 months - part of the new micromobility movement, offering a low-carbon, cheap and convenient way to get around. But are they a fad or here to stay? Voi, which provides scooters in 17 towns and cities including Liverpool, Birmingham, Bath, Bristol, Oxford and Cambridge, has written a useful article Debunking myths about sustainable transport and micromobility. To date, in the UK, Voi has serviced over seven million rides, which it says has replaced an estimated three million short car trips. And finally: Don't miss the satire film Don't Look Up | Read my new Guide to low carbon holidays | Here's a great eco lodge in Devon | How to travel from Scotland to Europe without flying | The Man in Seat 61's dream list for re-instated train journeys

by Richard Hammond A new glampsite has opened in the Ochils, Perthshire, central Scotland, and the good news is that you can get there by public transport. 'Enchanted Glamping' is a collection of luxury yurts (and a converted horse-box) at Alexander House, just a few miles from Gleneagles railway station from where you can walk or cycle to the camp where there's a keybox for you to pick up the keys for a contact-less check-in. Alexander Estate is in Perthshire’s beautiful Ochil Hills (the house itself is also available for a self catering). The yurts are tucked away in a sheltered corner or amongst Scots Pines with views of the countryside. Facilities include private bathrooms with roll top baths, eco-friendly products and flushing loos, wood burners and woodfired hot tubs (there is no Wi-Fi nor TV). One of Scotland’s newest Gin Distilleries, the Gate House, offers tastings and tours location at the end of the drive. Local massage therapist Lyn offers a range of treatments from a 30-minute facial to a full body massage for 55 minutes (£30). Gleneagles is just 3 miles away, where you can play golf, visit the spa or dine at the two Michelin starred Andrew Farlie restaurant. For something simpler - such as local beef, eggs, sausages and oatmeal - you can stock up on supplies at Gloagburn Farm Shop or pick up fish and chips or an Indian take out in Auchterarder village. Alternatively it's a 7-mile hike along the old Drove Road through the hills for a pint and a bite at the 18th century Tormaukin Inn overlooking the river in the glen of Glendevon. Walkers can cross the lower level glens or tackle a full traverse of the Ochil Hills. There's a long range of steeply sided hills stretching 25 miles from the Firth of Tay to Stirling with names including Whitewisp, Steele's Knowe, Craigentaggert, The Nebit, Bengengie. Ben Cleuch is the highest at just over 700m. The Yurts are cost from £150 a night - minimum two night stay, for up to 2 adults only. The converted Leyland Horsebox costs from £150 a night - minimum two night stay, for up to 2 adult and 2 kids (aged up to 10 years). Dogs are welcome for an additional £25 per stay. To book or for more information visit www.enchantedglamping.co.uk or call 01764 910320. == Covid 19 - bookings, flexibility and social distancing Currently Enchanted Glamping is closed due to Covid 19 restrictions, however bookings are being taken from 15th July onwards and it says it will be following all social distancing and cleaning guidelines recommended by VisitScotland and the Scottish Government. For future bookings, full payment is requested 30 days before travel and should restrictions not enable the booking to be fulfilled guests will be offered the opportunity to rebook alternative dates within the next 12 months.

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to the Mendip Hills, Jackie King picks out a selection of gardens, animal centres and other family fun experiences in this glorious Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) in Somerset, southwest England. No visit to the Mendips would be complete without a trip to Cheddar Gorge, whose limestone cliffs cut a jagged course through the middle of the AONB. There's no doubt that Cheddar Gorge is stunning and definitely deserving of the attention it receives from visitors, but there is a whole host of other exciting and entertaining things to see and do in the area which will reward the visitor who hangs around in the Mendips a little longer. When the sun is shining, there are gardens and lakes - namely Chew Valley and Blagdon - havens of peace and tranquility and incredibly quiet, especially during the week. With so much to do in the great outdoors, it can be difficult to take yourself inside, but there are also some fascinating museums detailing the region's history, geology and archaeology which will keep the family amused on rainy days. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Travel Guide to the Mendips: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Cheddar Gorge and Caves Probably the most famous tourist attraction in the Mendips, the breath-taking limestone Cheddar Gorge, which rises a dramatic 445 feet at its greatest height, was formed by meltwater nearly 1 million years ago. There are caves to explore, a museum to investigate, dedicated to the discovery of Britain’s oldest skeleton, the Cheddar Man, great walks (the 3-mile cliff top circular gives spectacular views into the gorge – bring a picnic), and a 274-step lookout tower, giving you uninterrupted views across the valley. Thrill-seekers can opt for caving or rock-climbing. cheddargorge.co.uk Chew Valley Lake On the northern edge of the Mendips, fringed by reedbeds, woodland and grassland, Chew Valley Lake is a pleasant place to while away an afternoon. Designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest, over 260 bird species have been recorded at Chew. To protect the wildlife, access to the lake is restricted in certain areas, but there are plenty of trails which loop around the lake, as well as sailing and fishing available. There are landscaped picnic areas, a teashop and art gallery, too. Milton Lodge Gardens On a gentle slope looking out towards Wells, Glastonbury Tor and the Somerset Levels beyond is Milton Lodge Gardens, created in 1900 by Charles Tudway, the present owner's great-grandfather. Designed to capitalise on the stunning views, the gardens consist of a series of manicured terraces, sloping lawns, and lily ponds, bordered by a colourful collection of flowering shrubs and perennials, roses and wild flowers, and a variety of lovely trees. On hot days find shelter in The Combe, an 8-acre arboretum of woodland garden filled with gracious old trees and shady spots. miltonlodgegardens.co.uk Wookey Hole Caves Wookey Hole Caves need little introduction - this is family fun at its best. The beautifully-lit caves and grottos will keep children entertained for hours: there’s the Witch of Wookey (a stalagmite which resembles a witch), a prehistoric valley of the dinosaurs, a magical fairy garden; you can even play around with producing your own paper at the 18th century paper mill. wookey.co.uk Burcott Mill Recorded in the Domesday Book, this flourmill is one of the few remaining working watermills in the UK. The River Axe still powers the old Victorian cogs which drive the millstones, producing flour sold throughout Somerset, and supplying various restaurants and bakeries in the region. The mill is open daily for tours (advance bookings only) or for a quiet wander around the museum. Louise and Steve also run B&B in some of the neighbouring buildings. burcottmill.com King John’s Hunting Lodge Housed in a half-timbered building in the middle of medieval Axbridge, this museum illustrates the history, geology and community of the village and the surrounding area, with exhibits such as civilian life in Somerset during World War II, prehistoric caves found nearby, as well as those on local prehistory, the Roman period, and Saxon history. There’s also a museum shop where you can pick up gifts of local interest. kingjohnshuntinglodge.co.uk Wells & Mendip Museum The permanent collections in the Wells Museum, which was established by a member of the Wells Natural History and Archaeological Society in 1894, document the region’s history, from an intriguing collection of Stone Age artefacts, to an important collection of minerals and fossils, and social history artefacts dating from the 18th century. www.wellsmuseum.org.uk For more information on characterful places to stay, local food and drink, and nearby outdoor activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to the Mendip Hills.

The Green Traveller Digest My digest of green travel in the news compiled by Richard Hammond Green travel is all over the news! Receive our free digest of all the latest news in your inbox sign up here >> New London to Edinburgh budget train service FirstGroup is to launch a budget London to Edinburgh rail service on the East Coast line next month. The new service, branded Lumo, will have just one single class of travel - 60% of seats will cost £30 or less with a max fare of £69 one-way, reports the Guardian. Ski holidays by train return for 2021/22 Patrick Thorne's website inthesnow.com reports on the green light for the ski train (of sorts) this winter - ski resort operator Travelski (owned by Compagnie des Alpes) will be running a specially chartered 'Travelski Express' rail route from London to 12 French ski destinations. As Daniel Elkan reports on his site snowcarbon.co.uk: "The only way to buy tickets for the Travelski Express is as part of a Travelski package with train, accommodation, transfer and a seven-day ski pass all included". The Travelski Express train will leave St Pancras on Friday evenings arriving into Moutiers and then Bourg St Maurice the following morning. Transfers will then be waiting at the stations to take guests direct to their accommodation in Tignes, Les Arcs, La Plagne, Meribel, Les Menuires or Val d’Isere. 7-day lift passes are included in the package to enable skiers to ski on arrival day and maximize their ski experience. CEO of Travelski, Guillaume de Marcillac said: “We know that a high proportion of British skiers would like to take the train for their ski holidays. As well as being environmentally advantageous, it is also easy, comfortable and delivers you to the heart of the resorts that are constantly popular with British skiers. Through our exclusive tie up with Eurostar we are now able to offer a rail inclusive package that will appeal to many skiers, especially families. Our packages allow you to check in at our dedicated desk at St Pancras, safe in the knowledge that transport to your accommodation will all then taken care of. We feel that this is a very interesting and valuable addition to our existing portfolio of ski holidays throughout the French resorts”. New start-up claims to be UK’s first carbon neutral coach operator Trade newspaper Travel Weekly reports on the launch of TourEasy, a new coach tour operator that it says "claims to be UK’s first carbon neutral coach holiday tour operator." Wind Power: The Future of Sustainable Travel? The BBC's Rajan Datar boards one of the biggest sailing ships ever built to find out "if wind-powered cruises could be a cleaner way to enjoy a holiday at sea". Watch the BBC Travel Show: The Future of Sustainable Travel. Climate impact of a transatlantic flight could cost global economy £2,170 In the weeks leading up to COP26 there will be many more stats like this that the travel industry is going to have to reckon with: a return flight UK-New York (a tonne of carbon dioxide emitted) could cost global economy more than £2,170 in the long run, reports the Guardian The six problems aviation must fix to hit net zero The Observer has published a list of some of the "big hurdles the sector will need to overcome if it is ever to be carbon neutral". Norway bans helicopters and submarines in Svalbard tourism crackdown The Times reports that Norway has imposed restrictions on visitors to the Arctic archipelago of Svalbard and is "banning cruise liners from offering helicopter and submarine rides amid growing concern about the impact of tourism on its fragile environment". Is it time to put a price on carbon? The case for it is made eloquently by Stephen Glaister, Professor Emeritus of Transport and Infrastructure at Imperial College London, read the article on the website of Greener Transport Solutions Using technology to make your business more sustainable I was on an online panel this week at the Travel Technology Show with Hjörtur Smárason, CEO - Visit Greenland and Horst Bayer of TravelHorst to discuss how technology can make businesses more sustainable. It was chaired by former Times and Sunday Times online travel editor Steve Keenan (Co-founder Travel Perspective). Travelling by train abroad If you're confused about the latest requirements for travelling by train overseas, The Man in Seat 61 has produced a detailed country-by-country round-up in his Coronovirus update that's "intended to point you in the right direction" - though he does urge readers to double-check things at the official sites as things keep changing. In case you missed it: There are some stunning photos in this year's Mangrove Photography Awards And finally... Why it's time to change the way we talk about climate change The World Economic Forum has published an article that calls for a change in the way that we talk about climate change, focusing less on the "abstract, intangible and scary" and more on solutions that translate into people's experience of everyday life.

Rhiannon Batten provides a few tips for how to have an eco escape in Amsterdam. There’s a lot more to Amsterdam than coffee shops, canals and cyclists. Home to some of Europe’s most creative citizens, though they may be stereotyped by a laid-back approach to life the Dutch capital’s inhabitants are also known for their progressive ideology, a characteristic they have put to good use over recent years in attempting to make the city one of Europe’s most sustainable metropolises. Amsterdam Energy Transition 2040, a statement of intent from Amsterdam City Council, includes many environmental goals. By 2025, for instance, the city aims to have reduced its carbon emissions by 40%, using wind turbines for clean energy production and developing carbon capture and storage technology for reducing its carbon footprint. It isn’t just the locals who will benefit from this approach. The attractions of exploring a city that is investing so deeply in the quality of life of its inhabitants will be just as appealing for visitors, too. Many of those features are out there to be enjoyed already. From Centraal Station, most of the city’s sights are easily reached by foot or bike, for example, as are its famously historic architecture and leafy green spaces. Practicalities Getting to Amsterdam: see our guide to How to travel by train from London to Amsterdam Getting around the city: At Amsterdam Central station, there’s an excellent network of trams, metro and buses, though Amsterdam is one of the world’s most cycle-friendly cities, so cycling is usually the quickest, cheapest and easiest ways to get around. Nearly all the cycling lanes are separate from the road (with traffic lights especially for bikes), so for a city, it’s a safe place to cycle, though you’re advised to always lock your bike wherever you leave it. At central station you can hire a bike with Mac Bike, one of Amsterdam’s largest bike rental agencies that also provides details for bike tours around the city (open 7 days a week 9am-5.45pm; www.macbike.nl; +31 (0)206 200 985). Where to stay Hotel Pulitzer One of the most luxurious hotels in Amsterdam, Hotel Pulitzer is also one of the greenest, having been awarded Gold by the international eco label Green Key for its waste and water reduction and CO2 minimising initiatives (these include low energy lighting, low flow shower heads, a wine bar that stocks exclusively Terra Vinis sustainable wines and a restaurant that focuses on local, seasonal produce). It also has oodles of charm, with a structure pieced together from 25 adjacent 17th and 18th century canal houses, elegant guest rooms overlooking the city’s distinctive canals or the hotel gardens, an in-house art gallery and a vintage boat waiting to whisk guests off for water-based sightseeing. Prinsengracht 315-331 (+31 20 523 5235; www.pulitzeramsterdam.com). DoubleTree by Hilton Hotel Amsterdam Centraal Station This 553-room business hotel is part of Amsterdam’s Eastern Docks regeneration project. Created by architects Bennetts Associates it is both cool and environmentally conscious, rising crane-like beside Centraal Station. Below the hotel’s green roof, guests can enjoy dramatic waterside and old town views through windows designed to minimize heat loss and glare, relax in temperatures controlled by below-ground heat pumps and aquifers and make use of both bike- and book-hire schemes. Oosterdokstraat 4 (+31 20 530 0800; www.doubletree1.hilton.com). Conscious Hotel Vondelpark The second of two “eco design” hotels in the city, this one describes itself as “more hip than hippy” with 81 bright, contemporary bedrooms, 100% organic breakfasts and easy access to the wide green spaces, ponds, bike paths and jogging routes of the city’s popular Vondelpark. Eco innovations include a charging point for electric vehicles, fittings made from recycled coffee cup holders and yoghurt pots, electricity sourced exclusively from renewables, the use of green cleaning products and a living plant wall. Overtoom 519 (+31 20 820 3333; www.conscioushotels.com). Hotel V Frederiksplein Only four years old, this relative newcomer on Amsterdam’s hotel scene has a suitably youthful feel. A circular fire hangs from the ceiling in the mellow lounge, there’s free wifi, 48 smart but cosy bedrooms and a breezy, open-plan restaurant. Much of the food and drink served is organic and/ or Fair Trade (cocktail lovers note there’s a choice of two organic vodkas behind the bar), cleaning products are environmentally friendly, organic bedlinen is supplied by local brand Yumeko, energy comes from a green supplier and the basic energy, water and waste-saving measures you’d expect of a hotel that has the Gold rating from the Green Key eco label. Weteringschans 136 (+31 20 662 3233; www.hotelv.nl). The Toren If you’re looking for period charm it doesn’t get more tangible than at this central 38-room hotel, once the home of Prime Minister Abraham Kuiper (and, later, of the university he founded). Based in a 17th century canal house, the hotel’s plum, gold and scarlet colour scheme, rich furnishings and soft lighting set off the traditional surroundings in theatrical style. Owned and run as a hotel by the Toren family since the 1960s, the hotel sources its electricity from green suppliers and provides breakfasts packed with Fair Trade and organic produce. Keizersgracht 164 (+31 20 622 6033; www.thetoren.nl). Where to eat De Kas There can’t be many restaurants that follow the local produce ethos quite as closely as De Kas. Set in a converted greenhouse on the outskirts of the city, in what was once a municipal nursery, almost all the fresh produce served up as part of its daily three-course fixed price menu is grown in adjacent greenhouses or in the field the restaurant owns outside the city; meat is supplied by local organic farmers and fish comes straight from the North Sea. Don’t expect rustic cooking, though. A meal here will be one of the most inventive dining experiences you’re ever likely to enjoy. Kamerlingh Onneslaan 3 (+31 20 462 4562; www.restaurantdekas.nl). De Vliegende Schotel Its name may mean “the flying saucer” but, for fans of old-school wholefood dining, there’s nothing alien about this vegetarian restaurant. Cheerfully and cosily decorated, it’s installed in an unassuming position in the centre of the old Jordaan district and is just the place to turn to if you’re looking for hearty portions of organic cooking at no-nonsense prices (think lentil pies, lasagnes, tajines and organic ice creams). Nieuwe Leliestraat 162 (+31 20 625 2041; www.vliegendeschotel.com). De Culinaire Werkplaats This “eating initiative and experience” is part design studio, part workshop, part art gallery, part bakery and part restaurant. Designed to help visitors take a fresh look at the way they eat, you can dine in, buy a take away meal or join one of its regular cookery events. The options range from coffee and cake to a daily “menu” of five small dishes and its kitchen takes animal welfare, organic farming, Fair Trade, seasonality, food miles and all-round goodness seriously. Fannius Scholtenstraat 10 (+31 65 464 6576; www.deculinairewerkplaats.nl). Customers pay what they feel is a fair price. Restaurant Freud Set near the city’s Westerpark, this shipshape restaurant puts its heart and soul into what it serves. Not only are dishes made with local, seasonal, organic ingredients (try the confit of duck with pumpkin mousse, cabbage and red wine or the Portobello mushrooms with gorgonzola and pistachio) but it’s socially responsible too. As the name suggests, it was set up as a reintegration project for people with psychiatric issues and has successfully continued that mission in its employment policy. Spaarndammerstraat 424 (+31 20 688 5548; www.restaurantfreud.nl). Restaurant As This restaurant has become a place of pilgrimage for visiting foodies, despite its out-of-the-way location in the south of the city. Set in a former church, its “rustic contemporary” décor extends both inside and out, providing a relaxed setting whatever the weather. Daily menus are pulled together with fresh, seasonal and organic ingredients, and classic local dishes - such as oven-roasted pork with parsnips and beans - are given a thoroughly modern spin. Wash it all down with a glass of organic beer from Dutch brewery Budels. Prinses Irenestraat 19 (+31 20 644 0100; www.restaurantas.nl). Where to visit Hit the shops Whether it’s ethical fashion, food or design souvenirs you’re after, Amsterdam caters for all. For fair clothing brands, from local label Kuyichi to substainable style superstar Edun, head to Nukuhiva or Charlie + Mary. For jewellery, gifts and bags there’s Restored and for homewares there’s Droog’s flagship store; though not all Droog’s products are sustainably crafted it wins green points for promoting upcoming young local designers. For food, head to Marqt, where 90% of the stock is organic. Nukuhiva, Haarlemmerstraat 36 (+31 20 420 9483); Charlie + Mary, Gerard Doustraat 84 (+31 20 662 8281; www.charliemary.com); Restored, Haarlemmerdijk 39 (+31 20 337 6473; www.restored.nl); Droog, Staalstraat 7b (+31 20 523 5059; www.droog.com); Marqt, Overtoom 21–25 (+31 20 422 6311; www.marqt.nl). The Chocolate Club Clubbing for the health conscious, you won’t find drugs, drink or debauched behaviour at the Chocolate Club. Instead the first Saturday of every month offers locals and visitors a chance to bust some moves on a natural high induced by nothing more than the skills of Club Lite’s house, trance, electronica and world music Djs, and raw chocolate concoctions provided by the event’s organisers, healthfood suppliers Mastercare. Recent tipples have included an “extra spicy chocolate elixir” spiked with “hot Amazonian jungle herbs to make you glow and flow on the dancefloor.” Club Lite Amsterdam, Jan van Galenstraat 24 (+31 20 436 0230; www.chocolateclub.nl). The Dutch Resistance Museum Not only is this one of the most rewarding cultural experiences available in town, relating the experiences and stories of the Dutch people during WWII, but it is attempting to do so in a low impact way. In association with a local cultural coalition, The Plantage, the museum has signed up to a sustainable tourism strategy and has made a commitment to reducing its carbon emissions by 3% each year through measures such as low-energy lighting, recycling and green office management policies. Visitors can also book a three-hour WWII-themed bike tour that stops off at the museum, in association with local, family-owned company Joy Ride Tours. Dutch Resistance Museum, Plantage Kerklaan 61 (+31 20 620 2535; www.verzetsmuseum.org). WWII bike tours: +31 64 361 1798; www.joyridetours.nl. To market A surefire way to soothe hunger pangs while also getting an insight into local customs, visiting a market and buying direct from local producers is also one of the most ethical ways to shop. Some of the best hunting grounds in Amsterdam include the Pure Markt, which operates on Sundays at various locations around the city, and the 25 year-old Noordermarkt, an organic farmers’ market that sets up stall every Saturday selling everything from vegetables and cheese to bread, crepes, honey and herbs. Pure Markt (www.puremarkt.nl); Noordermarkt, Jordaan (open on Saturdays from 9am to 3pm). Park life Treat your lungs to a hike or a bike ride around one of Amsterdam’s 30-plus wide green parks. The Vondelpark is the largest, covering 120 acres, but the Frankendael with its art gallery and restaurant, the opposing Ooster- and Westerparks and Sarphatipark, in the hip de Pijp district, are all popular. Dedicated plant lovers should also stop off at the diminutive De Hortus Botanical Garden. Founded in 1638, it is now home to over 4,000 plant species and an organic café, the Orangery. Plantage Middenlaan 2a (+31 20 625 9021; www.dehortus.nl). Entrance €7.50pp. Things to do Amsterdam Beer Tour Not, perhaps, the most high brow way to get to grips with local culture but certainly one of the most fun, on an Amsterdam Beer Tour you’ll soon discover that there’s more to local brewing than Heineken, Grolsch and Amstel. On this three to four-hour walking tour not only will you get to try out three of the best local ales but you’ll pick up plenty of hop-laced trivia along the way (who knew that Amsterdam’s nuns used to brew their own back in the 16th century?). Tours run most days at 3pm (+31 29 941 1111; www.amsterdamcitytours.com). On your bike The local passion for cycling is infamous. Get in on the act while you’re there by hiring a traditional Dutch ‘black bike’ from rental outfit StarBikes and you’ll certainly look the part. Don’t want to go it alone? Join one of the company’s two-hour culinary bike tours and you can pedal your way around town while keeping energy levels up by sampling herring, ossenwurst, cheese, pickles and jenever along the way. De Ruyterkade 127 (+31 20 620 3215; www.starbikesrental.com). A wetlands safari Who needs the Amazon when you’ve got the reed-scattered landscape north of Amsterdam to explore by kayak? On a 5.5 hour “wetlands safari” you can paddle through the landscapes that inspired some of Holland’s greatest painters, enjoying birds, aquatic plants and villages that appear to be built between land and water along the way. And, with a guide on hand to interpret the local waterscape and wildlife for you – and steer you towards a picnic lunch packed with local produce - there’s no chance of losing your way. Tours run daily except Saturdays, from May to September. (+31 65 355 2669; www.wetlandssafari.nl). Organic unwinding These days most of us are pretty careful when it comes to what we put into our bodies (the occasional pizza or apple crumble lapse aside) but, according to the founder’s of Amsterdam’s C. spa, we should be equally cautious about what we put on it. All the beauty products the company use contain only natural ingredients. This includes aromatherapy oils by Spanish company Alqvimia, which the spa uses for its relaxing, revitalising, de-stressing or detoxing massage treatments. Herenstraat 30a (+31 20 627 6732; www.cosmeticsandcare.com). Go boating The classic way to see the sights of Amsterdam is from the water. The city is home to more canals than Venice but, fortunately for the capital of the Netherlands, its waterways aren’t struggling quite as much with pollution as their Italian counterpart’s. Credit for this, at least in some part, should go to those boating operators who have switched to electric vessels, making waterborne sightseeing trips both quieter and cleaner. (+31 20 422 7007; www.canalmotorboats.com). Written by Rhiannon Batten == Photo credits: Smalltown Harbours, Edam: Amsterdam Tourism & Convention Board (ATCB); Restaurant De Kas, Copyright: Ronald Hoeben; Restaurant De Kas, Copyright: Ronald Hoeben; Canoe Safari; Conscious Hotel Vondelpark; Conscious Hotel Vondelpark; Cycling in Amsterdam. Copyright: Amsterdam Tourism & Convention Board (ATCB).

Interlaken is nestled between the alpine lakes Brienz and Thun, and overlooked by the mighty Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau mountains. It was originally known as Aarmühle until the name officially changed in 1891. At the foot of the Bernese Oberland mountain range it's a great base for exploring the region - it is now the starting point for the Jungfrau Marathon, which climbs to 5,960 feet, and is a great place to go for watersports on the lakes or hiking and cycling to the impressive waterfalls in the surrounding moutains. Here is our green guide to Interlaken based on my recent trip to the region as part of our SprInterRail Sporting Adventure around Europe with RailEurope, plus a selection of the many tips that have been sent in by readers via our twitter account: @greentraveller and via the Green Traveller Facebook page. Watch the video of our visit to Interlaken: What to do Lake Brienz A deep blue stretch of water ringed by snowcapped mountains above and sleepy alpine villages below, Lake Brienz is a wonderful place to explore throughout the year. Adventure-seekers can chose from a huge selection of activities on or around the lake – sea kayaking, river rafting, windsurfing, canoeing, abseiling, rock climbing. Or you can cycle round the lake’s shore - a round trip takes about 4 hours. For summer visitors, no visit would be complete without a trip on one of the steamers which criss-cross the lake daily from April to October, ferrying passengers between the quaint villages that line the shore’s edge (trips are free for those with a Swiss pass which you can pick up from your hotel - see below). Themed cruises (Indian, Swizz BBQ, halal BBQ) run between May and August. www.bls.ch/schiffe Giessbach Falls The Giessbach Falls, which tumble down 500m into Lake Brienz in 14 tiers, are a magnificent sight. A path leading to the falls was created in the 19th century and allows you to get right under the falls – a refreshing thing to do, particularly in the heat of summer! You can reach them by car, but we’d recommend taking a boat across – then taking the funicular up to the Grandhotel Giessbach for a spot of lunch at the Parkrestaurant (see below). Train to the ‘Top of Europe’ At 3454m, Jungfrau railway station is Europe’s highest, and is a definite highlight for anyone visiting the area. Trains have been making the steady climb up here for over 100 years; you can jump a train aboard at Kleine Scheidegg, to the south of the lake. The 50-minute journey takes you through a world of snow, ice and rock, and the panoramas from the windows as you climb are awesome. From the top, marvel at the snowy scene below from various vantage points, including the Aletsch Glacier or the Ice Palace. On a clear day you can see as far as the Vosges mountains or Germany’s Black Forest. A ticket to the top may be a little on the expensive side, but well worth it. www.jungfrau.ch Hiking in the Bernese Oberland By the beginning of the 19th century, the area around Interlaken had already become a bit of a hiking mecca. Sandwiched between lakes Thun and Brienz, and at the feet of the three famous peaks - Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau - the Bernese Oberland has a dense network of trails and routes. Tinkling cowbells, picturesque picnic spots, and myriad paths and trails that meander through wildflower meadows and valley bottoms – hiking in this corner of the Alps isn’t technical or particularly strenuous, and cable cars can take the strain if the going gets tough. There are some 200 km of pistes too to keep skiers and snowboarders happy during the winter, too. Eco-friendly wheels Perfect for those that want to cover more kilometres than their legs will allow. The e-bikes do the hard work, allowing you to enjoy the beautiful surroundings and descend happily to the valley bottoms without dreading the ascent on the other side! Your guides are a mine of information on local culture and traditions; you can chose to stop off at farms, explore remote villages and sample the delicacies at local eateries en route. Three Waterfalls Trail This trail is a 6 km route which hugs the lake all the way from Bönigen, (a kilometre or so east of Interlaken), to Iseltwald (your picture-perfect Swiss alpine village). It’s an easy 2-hour hike, and takes in some lovely waterfalls and beautiful lake views. You can then hop on a boat back to Bönigen. Where to eat Restaurant Des Alpes Handy restaurant serving decent Swiss food (such as fondue, fried potato dishes and meat grills) and wood-fired pizzeria (evenings only) with an outdoor terrace and childrens play area, on Inerlaken's main high steet, a few minutes walk from Interlaken Ost train station. www.desalpes-interlaken.ch, tel: +41 (0)33 822 23 23 Restaurant Laterne Characterful, family-run restaurant in a quiet quarter of Interlaken, which specialises in local, traditional Swiss dishes, including. www.restaurant-laterne.ch, tel: +41 (0)33-822-11-41. Parkrestaurant Les Cascades at Hotel Giessbach Bang opposite the thundering Giessbach falls, the Parkrestaurant at Hotel Giessbach is located in the fairytale castle hotel and is a fabulous place to eat. Set in the orangerie with glass on all sides, it’s all starch white tablecloths and wicker chairs, silver candlesticks and table lamps. If you can tear your gaze away from the views, the food is dressed to impress. Where to Stay Hotel Metropole If your heart sinks on the approach, don’t be put off. It may be no beauty from the outside, but as soon as you’re settled in your room and you’ve clapped eyes on the views from your balcony, you won’t regret coming here. Handy for the train and bus stations (five minutes’ walk), this place is the tallest building in Interlaken (hence the fabulous views). Buffet breakfasts are good and plentiful, rooms are spacious and light, and the staff are efficient and friendly. It’s modern, clean and welcoming, and great value for money, too. Getting around by public transport Interlaken is small enough to cover on foot. Local buses are regular and hotel guests receive a visitor's card on arrival that allows free rides within the town on buses and trains. You can also use bus No. 105 from Interlaken West station to Wilderswil (every half hour, journey time 9 mins) for all mountain-bound trains. The visitors card also includes discounts at various area attractions. How to get to Interlaken by train We travelled to Interlaken East station via Milan, and then returned to the UK via Interlaken West station via Basel and Paris. From the UK, the easiest way by train is to take the Eurostar to Paris, then change to catch the TGV-Lyria train to Basel (about 3 hours) then the local trains from Basel to Interlaken East (in just under 2 hours.). For more information, see our guides to How to travel from the UK to Italy and How to travel from London by train to Interlaken. -- This green guide to Interlaken, Switzerland, was researched and compiled by Florence Fortnam, Richard Hammond and Andy Hix. Thanks to Meret Geissbühler, Interlaken Tourism for hosting greentraveller.

Harriet O'Brien provides a few tips for how to have a green eco escape in Lyon. With its Roman amphitheatres, medieval cobbled streets, secret passageways, Renaissance townhouses and absorbing museums, Lyon is one of France’s under-sung glories. Dramatically built around two rivers, the Saone and the Rhone, and two great hills (Fourviere to the east and Croix Rousse to the north), it has a wonderful natural setting. And perhaps this is what has endowed it with extraordinary energy: for above all Lyon is a dynamic city of innovation. It has been a pioneer of silk weaving, of cinema (the Lumiere brothers invented moving picture technology here) and, of course, of gastronomy - with Paul Bocuse currently the most celebrated of its long line of food heroes. And there’s more. Much more. Today, Lyon is making huge strides in green developments. It was in Lyon, in May 2005, that the first of France’s public bike schemes was launched – open to visitors and residents alike. Velo’v now comprises a fleet of about 4,000 bicycles and nearly 345 pick-up and drop-off points spread through Lyon and outlying Villeurbanne. But that’s just tip of the iceberg. The city has become a centre for clean technology, creating a public transport system (of tram, metro, trolleybus) much praised as a model for sustainable development. And, even more importantly, it is in the throes of orchestrating a huge project of urban regeneration which is set to become a benchmark for energy efficiency and sustainable living. Phoenix-like, the once rundown old port, prison and gasworks site at the confluence of the Soane and the Rhone is being transformed into a vibrant residential and leisure area, with construction strictly meeting France’s High Environmental Quality standard. Practicalities Getting to Lyon: Lyon is under 5 hours by train from London (via Paris). For how to travel from the UK to Lyon by train and to book train tickets, see our step by step guide: How to travel by train from London to Lyon Getting around the city: Lyon has a good public transport network. From Part Dieu train station, there are trams, metro and buses that take you around the city centre and out to the city’s suburbs. Lyon’s handy City Card provides free admissions and discounts to many of the city’s main cultural and visitor attractions, including guided tours and unlimited access to the city’s public transport. It is valid for one (€21), two (€31) or three days (€41). For more information, see www.en.lyon-france.com/Book-a-Lyon-City-Card and to book guided tours call the tourist office: +33 (0)4 72 77 69 69 or e-mail: info@lyon-france.com. Some museums are closed on Mondays and Tuesdays. From outside the station, you can pick up a bike from the city’s bike hire scheme ‘Velo’v’, for more information, including a map of all the docking stations and the city’s cycle routes, see: www.velov.grandlyon.com. Where to stay Villa Florentine: Its terraced gardens are dotted with sculptures; its views eastwards over Lyon are superb; its 28 rooms are furnished with rich fabrics - and each has its own private terrace. Set on the Fourviere hillside, this is a gloriously upscale hotel in a 17th-century mansion. The luxury here is created with impressive environmental care, from water conservation to recycling and reduction of energy consumption. Meanwhile the gourmet restaurant places an accent on locally sourced ingredients and offers vegetarian options. 25 Montee St Barthelemy (+33 (0)4 72 56 56 56; www.villaflorentine.com). Doubles from €225, room only (breakfast €25). Hotel de la Cite Concorde: Looking like a space ship from one perspective, an ultra-sleek apartment block from another, this is one of the newest of the city’s four-stars. It is beautifully set on the banks of the Rhone near the Parc de la Tete d’Or and was designed by Renzo Piano as part of his Cite Internationale development to the north east of the centre. The 164 rooms offer contemporary, restful furnishings and facilities include an increasingly well regarded restaurant which, under chef Vincent Penot, prides itself on using seasonal market produce. The hotel utilizes low-energy lighting, environmentally sensitive use of water and recycling measures, among other eco efforts. 22 Quai Charles de Gaulle (+33 (0)4 78 17 86 86; www.lyon.concorde-hotels.com). Doubles from €210, room only. Home Sweet Home: Go local – and don’t be put off by the name of this charming and very welcoming little establishment. Set on Fourviere hill, this leafy chambres d’hotes offers home made breakfasts (using organic ingredients where possible) and much Lyon insight from host Chantal Menut. There are three warmly decorated bedrooms and a pretty, plant-filled terrace. Fourviere’s rose gardens and its Gallo-Roman remains are all within easy walking distance. 6 rue Cleberg (+33 (0)4 72 32 15 66; www.home-sweet-home-lyon.com). Doubles from €65, including breakfast. Radisson Blu Lyon: Head here for jaw-dropping views westwards over the city: this member of the Radisson Blu chain is set over the top nine floors of the Tour du Credit, at 164m Lyon’s tallest building. There’s an argument that you’re better in that out at this building: constructed in the latter 1970s the tower is no beauty. But looks aside, it is conveniently located close to the Part-Dieu station in the business district. Meantime the hotel itself offers cool efficiency, a comfy ambience in its 245 rooms, and a panoramic gourmet restaurant. Holding Clef Verte certification, it has an ongoing commitment to sustainable tourism, reducing paper consumption where possible, encouraging guests to take public transport, conserving water and more. 129 Rue Servient, Part-Dieu (+33 (0)4 78 63 55 00; www.radissonblu.com/hotel-lyon). Doubles from €200, room only, or €214 including breakfast of seasonal produce. Hotel Novotel Part-Dieu: Convenient, well priced and pleasingly functional, the 124-room Novotel Part-Dieu is in the heart of the business district and about 10 minutes by tram from Vieux Lyon. Like many other Novotel hotels it follows a programme of sustainable development, and since 2008 has been committed to reducing emissions, water consumption and energy by 20 per cent before the end 2012. Progress is monitored by the environmental organisation Earthcheck. 47 Boulevard Maurice Vivier Merle (+33 (0)4 72 13 51 51; www.novotel.com). Doubles from €120, room only. Where to eat La Voute Chez Lea: The modest exterior gives little away. On the banks of the Soane, La Voute Chez Lea is one of the oldest restaurants in town and it is the genuine article for food and décor. Step through the door and you’re in a world of the 1930s on the ground floor while upstairs furnishings evoke the early 1900s. The cuisine meantime offers an authentic taste of Lyon – and considerable pride is taken in obtaining market-fresh, strictly seasonal ingredients for the changing menu. Try one of the traditional specialities: quenelles de brochet (pike dumplings in a creamy sauce), local sausages, tablier de sapeur (breaded tripe) among them. Two courses will set you back about €28. 11 place Antonin Gourju (+33 (0)4 78 42 01 33; www.lavoute-chezlea.com). Open for lunch and dinner, Monday to Saturday. Le Coeur en Bouche: Imaginative presentation is part of the appeal of this small bistro near the Part-Dieu station in the business district. Simple, seasonal organic ingredients are used, with an emphasis on local products although occasionally an avocado pear or a banana might sneak on to the menu. The resulting dishes include the likes of organic fillet of salmon with leek mash, and crème brulee with hint of lemon. There is also a deli section stocked with oils, chocolates, wines and more, sourced from small producers across France. Expect to pay around €23 for two courses. 54 rue Ney (+33 (0)4 78 52 38 62; www.lecoeurenbouche.com). Open for lunch Monday-Friday, and for dinner on Friday and Saturday. Toutes les Couleurs: ‘We’re 100 per cent organic and 100 per cent gourmand’ say the staff at this vegetarian restaurant set in a former silk weaver’s workshop in the Croix Rousse district. The (strictly seasonal) menu might include courgette gratin with yoghurt dressing or ratatouille crumble with lentils. Expect to pay about €17 for two courses. 26 rue Imbert Colomes (+33 (0)4 72 00 03 95; www.touteslescouleurs.fr). Open for lunch Tuesday to Saturday, and for dinner on Friday and Saturday. Zone Verte: Helene Deffontis and Laurent Bouffanet spent several years travelling and working in Asia before setting up this vegetarian restaurant near the banks of the Saone in 2007. The fresh, organic ingredients here are given a spicy twist, with the small, changing menu featuring the likes of vegetable soup with ginger, and piquant lentil casserole with yoghurt and tahini. Pricing is keen: starter and main course cost €13. 24 quai Saint Antoine (+33 (0)4 78 38 15 18; www.zoneverte.fr). Open daily for lunch, and dinner Tuesday to Saturday. Soline: This brightly decorated organic vegetarian restaurant has developed a great reputation – and has a loyal base of local customers. A short walk south of the Part-Dieu station, it’s a relaxed outfit offering a buffet spread of salads and hot pots - and often particularly well-regarded ayurvedic dishes. Two courses cost around €14.89. Rue Paul Bert (+33 (0)4 78 60 40 43; www.soline.net). Open for lunch Monday to Friday. Where to visit Fourviere Hill: A trip to this seminal area of Lyon takes in dramatic public transport, the city’s most significant spiritual site and amazing Roman remains. Make your way to Vieux Lyon funicular station from where a cable car system (known locally as ‘la ficelle’) will scoot you vertiginously to Fourviere station at the top of the hill. You emerge beside the neo-Byzantine Basilica of Notre Dame de Fourviere, built in the 1870s. Head to its wide terrace offering stunning views of the city before taking a look inside the building – the interior of this much loved landmark is a riot of gilt and mosaic. Then walk downhill to the most remarkable site in Lyon: two large Roman theatres side by side in what is now an archaeological park. They were discovered only in 1933 in the grounds of what was then a convent. Fourviere archaeological park open daily until 9pm; free entrance. Hotel Gadagne: Head to this superb Renaissance mansion in the medieval old town for an insight into Lyonnaise culture. It contains two museums: one tells the story of the city, from its days as capital of the Gauls to its green developments in the 21st century; the other celebrates the art of puppetry from cultures around the world and with a special emphasis on Lyon’s own Guignol. Created in the 19th century by an out-of-work silk weaver the puppet was devised as an outspoken critic of the government – and Guignol shows today continue to denounce social injustice. While you’re here, make time, too, to visit the 4th-floor cafe where an inner garden typical of the Renaissance period has been recreated. 1 place du Petit College (+33 (0)4 78 42 03 61; www.gadagne.musees.lyon.fr). Open Wednesday to Sunday; entrance to each museum €6, ticket for both €8; free admission for under-26s – bring your passport as proof of age. Silk workshop: Visit a living museum of Lyon’s silk weavers, locally dubbed ‘Les Canuts’. Set high on Croix Rousse hill, near the Croix Rousse metro station, La Maison des Canuts is set in a 19th-century weavers’ workshop and still contains working looms from the turn of that century. It is both a studio and shop – stocked, of course, with fabulously worked silks. 10 Rue d’Ivry (+33 (0)4 78 28 62 04; www.maisondescanuts.com). Open Monday to Saturday. Free entrance to shop and studio; guided tours at 11am and 3.30pm. Adults €5.50; children €3.5; under-12s go free. Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse : Named after Lyon’s much-lauded culinary son, the city’s famous covered market is a veritable temple of French gastronomy. It contains 59 stalls of the best producers and grocers in the area as well a number of first-rate cafes and little bistros, including Chez Leon which is renowned for its oysters and mussels. The market’s food displays are fabulous. Stop by chacuterie Sibilia with its hams and saucissons. Sample the products of Seve, master patissier, renowned for his salt macaroons. Admire the great spread of cheeses at Fromagerie La Mere Richard. 102 cours Lafayette (+33 (0)4 78 60 32 82; www.halledelyon.free.fr). Tuesday to Sunday 8am-7pm (Sunday until 3pm). Botanical garden: Lyon’s Parc de la Tete d’Or is a much loved 117-hectare green space the banks of the Rhone to the north of the city centre. It contains a wonderful botanical garden, said to be the largest in France. Established in the late 1850s, this is now home to a good 15,000 plants including 750 varieties of historical roses. It also boasts some of the country’s most attractive greenhouses – nurturing a collection of orchids, exotic camellias, and carnivorous plants, among others. +33 (0)4 72 82 35 00; www.loisirs-parcdelatetedor.com. Open daily 9-11.30am and 1.30-4.34pm; free entrance. What to do Find secret passages: Take an intriguing walk through Vieux Lyon and seek out its ‘traboules’, hidden passageways between ancient streets. In medieval Lyon, the traboules were part of a neat solution to lack of space: two or more properties shared a well and inner courtyard accessed by a pathway through the buildings. During WWII Lyon was the headquarters of the Resistance and the traboules became hiding places. The tourist office can supply you with a free map that details the traboules. It also runs guided walking tours through these passages. Lyon Tourist Office, place Bellecour (+33 (0)4 72 77 69 69; www.lyon-france.com). Guided walking tours of Vieux Lyon’s traboules take place on Saturday at 2.30pm in English; adults €5; under-18s go free. Go sight-jogging: Put on your trainers, meet your guide and off you jog. Described as ‘intelligent sport’ sightrunning quite simply combines exercise with sightseeing. For the moment Joggincity offers private tours only: your guide will meet you at your hotel and accompany you on one of three one-hour routes, explaining history and landmarks as you jog. The easiest tour is along the banks of the Soane and Rhone, more effort is required for the Croix Rousse sight-jog, while the Fourviere route is pronounced difficult. Joggincity (+33 (0)6 62 67 91 30; www.joggincity.fr). One-hour tours €40 per person, based on a private group of two sight-joggers. Take an electric tricycle tour: They’re like Bangkok’s motorised rickshaws - but without the fumes. Electrically powered tricycles are available for clean, green tours of Lyon. Cyclopolitain offers a choice of guided tours (in French) in these dinky looking vehicles: a half-hour trip takes in Vieux Lyon, the Opera House and the banks of the Rhone; two-hour tours will also take you to the Part-Dieu district and down to the new developments at the Confluence. Cyclopolitain (+33 (0)4 78 30 35 90; www.cyclopolitain.com). In operation Tuesday to Friday noon to 7pm and Saturday 10.30am-7pm. Half-hour tours €20; two-hour tours €60. See Lyon by canoe: Paddle through the city. There’s even a choice of rivers on which to do so. Lyon Canoe offers trips of about three hours - with or without a coach – either on the Soane and past the old town, or along the Rhone and through more modern Lyon. Each route takes you to the emerging new sector at the Confluence. +33 (0)6 98 77 95 10; www.lyoncanoe.com. Trips without a guide €25 per person based on three in a canoe. Trips with a guide €40 per person. Climb a tree: In fact make that several trees. Just a 15-minute bus ride from the heart of Lyon (catch the 14 TCL bus from place Bellecour to Sainte Foy les Lyon) City Aventure is a magnificent open-air playground with an acrobatic-style tree-top trail. It’s the perfect antidote to urban sightseeing. City Aventure, 35 avenue General de Gaulle, Sainte-Foy-les-Lyon. Opening hours vary with the seasons – consult www.cityaventure.com. Adults €23.45 (or €2.50 if just accompanying a child and not participating); children aged 10-18 €21.45; under-10s €15.45.

by Anna Shepard Before setting off for a weekend in Hamburg, I told my German neighbours where I was headed. “There are lots of parks and expensive cafes, but it's not as fun as Berlin," they told me. "Why don’t you go there?” Everyone knows you can have a good time in the country's eclectic capital, but I wanted something different. And my interest was piqued by Hamburg's reputation as Germany’s greenest city, with fantastic public transport, bike-loving citizens and fairtrade boutiques. I also had my reservations. As well as its thriving industrial port, my guidebook named the red-light district as one of the city's main attraction. Was there really nothing more on offer in Germany’s second largest city than industry and tacky sex shows? Putting doubts to one side, my boyfriend and I focused on the journey - we had three different trains to catch. In Brussels, our first stop, we were seduced by Belgian beer and frites, only narrowly making it back to our connecting train. At our next stop, Cologne, its gothic cathedral loomed over the station. After a whistlestop tour, we returned for the final leg of our journey. Upon arrival in Hamburg, any worries about whether we’d have fun melted away. It turned out there was another side to Hamburg that no one had mentioned. Like Berlin, it is a creative hub, bubbling with nightlife, bars, live music venues and a thriving student scene – there are 11 universities in town, hence lots of young people to entertain. It is also Germany’s media centre - over half of the nation’s newspapers and magazines are based in the city. Our hotel (see below) was hosting the German Press Awards the night we arrived, a glitzy affair which filled the bar with puffy ballgowns and photographers. “Hope you’ve brought your tux,” joked the porter, who turned out to be a devoted Anglophile. He was longing to talk Wimbledon and Buckingham Palace, and only reluctantly steered us towards German shops and restaurants. He preferred to reel off places to buy British produce in Hamburg - from Burberry sweaters to Scottish shortbread. Come August, he would be one of the thousands that gather at Hamburg’s Polo Club to celebrate British Day, feasting on fish and chips, followed by scones and afternoon tea. A love of all things British is one of Hamburg's most peculiar trait, but combined with friendliness and tolerance of poorly spoken German, it made us feel welcome. My partner, a true Anglo-Saxon, declared it just his kind of place – delicious cakes, decent coffee, no danger of sunburn and lots of opportunities to drink beer. And with its clearly marked underground system, love of organic food and adherence to recycling systems (even the parks and trains have divided bins), Hamburg often feels like London’s greener cousin. Unlike in the UK, you notice here that eco policies are followed as much by business as by people in their own homes. In museums, cinemas, cafes and even the trendiest restaurants, energy-saving lights are everywhere, rubbish is recycled (or composted) and notices politely request people to save water by turning taps off. In the suburbs, there’s a green hotel built exclusively from natural materials, complete with PV solar cells and rainwater flushing the loos. Guests are reassured they won’t have to sacrifice comfort; the spacious suites at the Okotel have balconies, mini-bars, cable TV and wireless. The only drawback is that the hotel is a bus ride away from the centre of town – something that put us off since we were only in the city for a couple of days. But even traditional hotels, such as the Atlantic - where we stayed - are onboard with the basics of eco-friendly tourism. For example, it uses regional food suppliers, eco cleaning products and financially rewards staff who come to work by public transport. Not content to be Germany’s greenest city, Hamburg is aiming to be the green capital of Europe by 2012. Its claim will be helped by the city’s very literal greenness. Every way you turn, you hit either a park or some water. With its network of canals and proximity to the River Elbe, Hamburg is said to have more bridges than Amsterdam and Venice combined (2300 if you’re counting). If it had been warmer, we might have braved the town bikes – there’s a scheme, called Stadtrad, that enables you to pick them up for free at bike parks around the city. Instead we strolled across a corner of the vast Stadtpark, Hamburg’s central park, which contains a planetarium, stopping now and again for a hot chocolate. Later we explored multicultural districts - such as St Pauli and Schanzenviertal - where it’s easier to find falafel than brockwurst. In the evening, we joined glamorous media-types at East, a trendy hotel and bar serving sushi and caiprihinias. On our last night, we followed a gang of students to a club in one of the suburbs where live bands took it in turns to play funk and ska until the early hours. Leaving the city the following day, we banished our hangovers by enjoying a final beer in the train's smart restaurant car. As we rattled out of Germany, we toasted Hamburg as the new Berlin before diligently slotting our empty beer cans into the correct bin. Where to stay For old-fashioned charm, stay at the Hotel Atlantic Kempinski – you might recognize it from the Bond film Tomorrow Never Dies (1997). Take afternoon tea in front of the fire in the elegant lobby and you’ll feel like you’ve wandered onto an Agatha Christie set. Its rooms are a little dated, but the breakfast makes up for it – champagne, smoked salmon and every imaginable cheese and salami (www.kempinski.atlantic.de; doubles from £140). For a younger, trendier vibe, try East Hotel with its clash of oriental design, boutique-style rooms and superb cocktails (www.east-hamburg.de; doubles from £135). Where to eat No visit to Hamburg is complete without eating fish in one of the smart restaurants overlooking the River Elbe. Warsteiner Elbspeicher is a classic, reasonably priced affair - when we visited the set menu included catfish and cabbage as well as delicious German wines, all for less than £30 a head (www.warsteiner-elbspeicher.de). Even more classy is the nearby Fischereifhafen-Restaurant, a celeb-haunt serving the city’s finest oysters and seafood, but except to pay no less than £50 a head (www.fischereihafenrestaurant.de). For the best organic coffee and cake, visit Cafe LilliSu in the Ottensen district (www.lillisu.de). Where to shop Our favourite place was a deli specialising in German produce called Mutterland. With slow-food principles, friendly staff and a stylish coffee shop, it represented the best of Hamburg’s cafe culture with a modern twist (www.mutterland.de). Eco worriers will love fair-trade boutiques such as Marlow Nature, Hamburg’s green fashion hub, which sells fair-trade shoes, eco-cosmetics and merino wool scarves made in South Germany (www.marlowe-nature.de). Try also accessories store Fein that sells fairly-traded produce (www.fein-store.de) and Eden Living for Ikea-style homeware (www.edenliving.de). TOP TIP Take to the water. Tour Hamburg’s centrally located Alster lake, either during the day, or book a romantic twilight trip. To see the prosperous warehouse district as well as the partially-built Elbphilharmonie concert hall, soon to be Hamburg’s pride and joy, book a harbour cruise (www.alstertouristik.de) GETTING THERE Anna Shepard travelled with Eurostar from London to Hamburg (fares from London to Hamburg start at £263 standard class return. For more information and to book train tickets see our rail journey planner: Train from London to Hamburg. == More information: See our Green Traveller's Guide to Germany See the website of the city's tourist office: www.hamburg-tourism.de/en

by Rhiannon Batten As the YHA's grand project, The Sill in Northumberland National Park, opens, Rhiannon Batten looks ahead to the most exciting developments at the organisation this summer To borrow a phrase from a well-known cereal, have you forgotten how good they taste? Or, rather, sleep? I spent my late teens exploring the wilder reaches of the UK courtesy of the Youth Hostels Association (England & Wales) – both on hiking weekends with friends and, sometimes, as a base on organised conservation volunteering breaks. But then came a gap year trip to South America, and a decade of dedicated wanderlust that took me from Lapland to Ladakh, Mozambique to Mali. Slowly the YHA and I grew apart. Five years ago, however, I had two children in quick succession and, with them, a shock to the nomadic system. Not only did many hotels and B&Bs not offer rooms that would sleep four but those that did were often way beyond our budget – or the kind of places where we couldn’t relax, worrying about the disruption two boisterous toddlers might cause to other guests. Nor was it as easy to stay with family and friends since most didn’t have enough space for four extras and, again, we worried about the impact of our tribe on the calm havens of grandparents, or friends who had had their children long ago, and had settled back into a quieter routine (with homes filled with precious knick knacks at prime toddler-grabbing height and body clocks that weren’t wired for extreme early starts). Camping wasn’t easy at the toddler stage, either (this time it was knives and gas burners at toddler-grabbing height). Rediscovering the YHA, therefore, was a revelation. It happened on a long but last-minute journey from the West Country to Kent. Everywhere we tried to book either wouldn’t take children, were full or were too expensive. Then we spotted a little green triangle on the map towards the end of our route: South Downs YHA. For £35 we got a private dorm room for the night - basic but clean – in a pretty former farm courtyard and, for another £15, a hot breakfast for everyone. The dining room also opened out onto an enclosed field so, when the children had finished their breakfast, we sat out with a free top-up of coffee while they ran around letting off steam before the next leg of our journey. Ever since then, whenever we’re plotting a journey – or someone asks me for tips on affordable places to stay for families – the YHA is one of the first places I turn to. Best hostels for families Over the last year, having taken out membership, we’ve stayed at several other hostels as a family, including Dufton in Cumbria, with its brilliant garden and treehouse, Haworth in Yorkshire, with its atmospheric restaurant and Arts and Crafts detailing, cosy Dartmoor in Devon with so much to do on the doorstep, scruffy but sweet Street in Somerset (handy for swims in the town’s heated lido) and two different hostels in London. Later this year we’re looking forward to checking out Exford, an affiliated hostel in Exmoor, and The Sill in Northumberland (see below). We haven’t had a bad experience yet, though subjectively we’ve preferred the smaller, homelier, more rural hostels where the spaces have a bit more individual character and where fellow guests have generally been walkers, cyclists and other families (and have followed a similarly early-to-bed, early-to-rise routine). And, while I fully understand the charity’s drive towards modernisation, I sometimes wish its older properties could be more sensitively refurbished, with real reference to the character of each property rather than having a kind of (whisper it) bland, branded uniformity stamped on them; simple can be just as appealing as luxurious if it’s done with a bit of care and charm – and speaks to the location’s distinct character. These are minor niggles, however. With so many successful stays under our belt this past year, the YHA will continue to be one of the first places we turn to when planning UK trips as a family. Alongside many classic hostels on our wishlist for 2017 and beyond, others we’ll be considering specifically because they are being launched or refurbished as part of the organisation’s current spate of investment. New for 2017 and beyond Recently renovated hostels include those at Treyarnon Bay, which re-opened in April after a refurb and now better reflects its position as a surfer-friendly spot, New Forest, where a general facelift has improved the communal dining facilities and seen bell tents added (complete with wood-burning stoves), Tanner’s Hatch, where the kitchen facilities have been overhauled and two new safari tents have been placed in the grounds, Liverpool where the bar has been extended and improved, Keswick which has had a major overhaul following floods in 2015, St Davids, where the former farmhouse’s layout has been changed to offer a wider range of accommodation and a new camping barn has opened, London Thameside, which has had a refurb, London St Paul’s, which has just been spruced up, and Hartington Hall, which re-opens imminently with a new kitchen. Hostels being significantly refurbished later this year, meanwhile, include those at Swanage, Perranporth, Hawkshead, Sherringham and my home town of Bath, where the internal and external space is being reconfigured to add a new annexe of en-suite bedrooms and a car park. Perhaps the biggest development of all this year, however, is a whole new hostel opening on 29 July in Northumberland. The Sill at Hadrian's Wall - named after a nearby ridge, the Great Whin Sill – will be part of the £14.8 million National Landscape Discovery Centre, a collaboration between YHA, Northumberland National Park Authority and the Heritage Lottery Fund designed to open the Northumberland National Park and the Northumberland Coast Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty to more people. Set very close to Hadrian’s Wall, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and within Europe’s largest area of protected night sky, as well as a cultural centre, business hub, shop and café, the project will include an 86-bed hostel. Accommodation here will be spread across 26 bedrooms (19 of them en suite and two of them fully accessible) and the hostel will also encompass a restaurant and bar as well as a self-catering kitchen. Finally, looking slightly further ahead, work is set to start later this year on a flagship, purpose-built, 850-bed hostel – the largest in Europe - beside Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park in Stratford. If all goes to plan it should open in early 2019. Partnerships It’s not just bricks and mortar that the YHA is investing in. Previous successful partnerships include last year’s opening of YHA Cotswolds, in Cirencester. Also known as The Barrel Store, it is owned by entrepreneurial arts Charity New Brewery Arts but affiliated with the YHA. A passivhaus building, formerly a brewery warehouse, it is decked out with handcrafted furniture, has an on-site craft shop and runs classes and workshops in everything from pottery, willow-weaving and drawing to stone-carving. This year the organisation is partnering with British Triathlon, tapping into the growing trend for people to base breaks around outdoor challenge events. British Triathlon and its affiliated clubs will benefit from subsidised use of meeting rooms in youth hostels as well as reduced membership and accommodation rates and the YHA’s network of properties throughout England and Wales will be used to host British Triathlon's GO TRI events. Developments in Scotland While the YHA covers England and Wales (the Scottish Youth Hostels Association and Hostelling International Northern Ireland are separate associations), it’s worth mentioning one other significant development for anyone planning a budget stay north of the border this summer. From 17 July to 2 September Edinburgh Haddington Place Youth Hostel joins Edinburgh Metro as a pop-up hostel in the Scottish capital, making the most of a luxurious new student accommodation block over the summer break to offer 143 en-suite single rooms. Great for anyone planning a trip to Edinburgh’s festivals, these seasonal hostels are an addition to Edinburgh’s permanent youth hostel, five-star Edinburgh Central. One more for the road There’s one more hostel on my list for 2017 - St Briavels Castle. This diminutive 800 year-old castle (it’s Grade I-listed), within the glorious Wye Valley AONB, is being refurbished later this year, with new furniture (let’s hope the designers take a tip from YHA Cotswolds and go down the hand-crafted route). That’s not the only reason I’d like to visit, though. St Briavels was the very first hostel I stayed at and, 25 or so years on, I’d like to go back with my family in tow – and hope it inspires my two boys to some great hostelling adventures, just as it did for me.

As we launch our Green Traveller's Guide to Dartmoor National Park, Paul Bloomfield saddles up to follow the Dartmoor Way cycle trail and finds that tackling the tors of Dartmoor doesn’t have to be thigh-bustingly tough – if you hop on an electric bike and let the battery power your ascents. The first animal I spotted on Dartmoor was the last one I expected to see: an alpaca – or, rather, a trio of the shaggy-coated mammals. Ponies, yes; sheep, certainly; possibly even a peregrine falcon diving in a sharp stoop above the moor. South American camelids? Not so much. But then my foray onto the south-eastern uplands of the national park was always going to be a little out of the norm. I was about to experience one of the newest, and most leisurely, modes of transport on the moor: electric bike. The appeal of Dartmoor to cyclists – at least, energetic ones – has long been obvious. Its testing climbs and descents, dramatic tors and sweeping views are manna for hardy bikers with a taste for wild rides, and with the creation of the 95-mile circular Dartmoor Way last autumn – much of it on dedicated paths or peaceful backroads – there are now even more reasons to try a two-wheeled adventure. Being less confident of my calf muscles, I had chosen a softer approach. Inga Page and her business partner Luke launched Dartmoor Electric Bicycles last year, offering guided tours and self-guided trips on various routes aboard high-quality Swiss Flyer e-bikes. The benefits quickly became clear as we whizzed down from their base at Higher Hannaford Farm, crossed the River Dart at New Bridge and climbed past Holne onto the High Moorland Link of the Dartmoor Way, the 27-mile route that crosses the southern part of the moor between Buckfastleigh and Tavistock. “You can choose from three levels of power, depending on how energetic you’re feeling,” Inga observed. “But I’d always advise a low gear and setting power to High for the hills,” she chuckled. And why not? This isn’t cheating, at least not completely – you still need to pedal. You just enjoy a little help, like a faint nudge from behind just when you need it. Up on Holne Moor, pausing to drink in views across the wooded Dart Valley to the aptly named Sharp Tor and the long ridge of Corndon Tor, I discovered another perk to the guided approach: Inga’s wealth of knowledge of Dartmoor’s ancient history. “Up to the left you can make out reaves – stoney banks – bounding Bronze Age field systems,” she pointed out, “and the line of the leat (manmade channel) threading across the hillside, following the contour lines and carrying water down from high springs to farm enclosures.” Dartmoor is, of course, littered with prehistoric monuments, from cists (burial chambers) and cairns to stone rows and these ancient field systems. Drawn to the moor by easy-to-access tin – vital component of bronze – some 10,000 people occupied a warmer, more fertile Dartmoor 4,000 years ago. Bleaker and less wooded it may be today, but it’s no less entrancing for all that. Down and across Venford Reservoir we freewheeled, then over lichen-clad Hexworthy Bridge before hopping off at St Raphael’s Church in Huccaby to admire the snowdrops that burst from the banks of the churchyard like so many strings of fairy lights. Continuing along to Dartmeet, crossing alongside the remains of the ancient clapper bridge, we girded out loins for the long haul up to Yarntor Down. Except the demands of the hill were almost disappointing, the gentle hum of the electric motor taking the sting out of the climb. What did sting were the hailstones that clattered onto my helmet in a sudden squall – though when I reached the top and paused to admire the rainbow arcing over my left shoulder, I barely noticed the icy pellets. This was the highpoint of my ride, figuratively and, at about 360m, literally. Sharptor loomed ahead, the foreground grazed by Dartmoor ponies. Behind me, a skylark serenaded us with a thrilling burble from its looping trajectory. And the gorse- and bracken-speckled heath was bathed in a warm, golden soup of winter sunlight. Bliss. At the start of the ride, Luke had told me: “You’ll get out what you put in.” He was referring to the effect of the electric motor on the bike, but his comment could equally apply to the ride itself. The farther you pedal, the more you see, the greater the rewards. I felt as if I’d been gifted much more than my modest exertions deserved. Dartmoor Electric Bicycles offers a range of guided half- and full-day tours as well as sunset and tea rides with stops at a country pub or tearoom. Helmets are included in the price (from £35/60 for a half-/full-day ride).

Long-tail or Christiana? Trailers or tag-alongs? What about conversion kits and accessories? Writer Rhiannon Batten sifts through the options in her quest to find a practical everyday bike to cycle with her two young boys It drove me half crazy trying to find a bicycle for two (that is two small boys, plus me, their mother). When our older son, Osian, started school last September we knew we wanted to leave the car at home as much as possible and get more fresh air on the school run. However, the school is in a beautiful valley over a mile from our house – a scenic but, at times, steep route that four year-old Osian could manage to walk but not his three year-old brother, Owen – and I would have both boys with me on non-nursery days. As a time-poor working mother cycling also seemed a more realistic option than walking. And, while Osian is a confident cyclist, I felt he was still too young to be cycling independently alongside me on a route that, at one point, takes in a busy rat-run for motorists. The answer was that we should get a family cargo bike. Yet we were unprepared for how difficult a search this would entail – over two months of research and test rides, and a much bigger investment than we initially envisaged. Was it worth it? Resoundingly, yes. The bike we eventually bought has transformed not just the school run but also our wider lives. On weekdays we arrive at the school gates invigorated and happy and raring to go (at the risk of sounding like the Waltons, I am also loving the interaction I get with the boys – instead of sleepy grunts from the back of the car I get a rolling commentary on their days and on the journey itself, even if they tend to get more excited by a passing rubbish lorry than the spectacular views of the valley that I’m soaking up myself). On a more personal note, as someone who works at a desk all day trying to cram in as much time as I can between drop-offs and pick-ups, it can be hard to break away for a lunchtime walk or swim but the school run means I get some much-needed fresh air and exercise: ultimate ‘me’ time that makes me a happier person. The bike also means I really can ‘nip’ into town, or to the local railway station, without the hassle of finding somewhere to park or waiting for a bus. Just as no two children are the same different families’ cycling needs are rarely equal and there were some specific factors that made our search more complicated than it might otherwise have been. Finding the information we needed was an exasperating, time-consuming process. I hope that by sharing the discoveries we made along the way, it will make the process a little easier for you if you’re looking to buy one of these life-enhancing machines. Going electric One of the first things we discovered was that there are many more options available if you don’t need an electric bike. The proliferation of bike-based businesses over recent years (even in our home town of Bath we have both a pedal-powered groceries service and a postal service) has meant that standard cargo bikes (ie bikes designed to transport bigger loads than a standard bicycle basket could cope with) are now fairly common. And many brands sell models designed specifically to transport children. Non-electric cargo bikes also tend to be cheaper than those with electric-assist (by our reckoning electric assist adds about £1,000 to a cargo bike). However, our two boys are tall and, being just over a year apart in age, that means two relatively heavy children to transport (if you have a bigger gap between children it might be easier to manage with a non-electric model). The other consideration for us in choosing to go electric was living in Bath; being in one of those fabled cities built on seven hills might add to the beauty of the surroundings but it’s an extra challenge for local cyclists and our school run includes a pretty steep incline. If we lived in a flatter area I wouldn’t have gone for electric but now I’m evangelical about electric bikes. One of the most common questions I’m asked is whether I need to pedal or whether it just goes on its own but the truth is I’m still getting plenty of exercise. The model we went for has a choice of electric assist from zero to five – even at full-power five you still need to pedal but you don’t get that burn in your thighs unless you choose it, and you’re not arriving anywhere panting and sweaty – unless you choose to be! In fact I’m such a convert I don’t think I would go back to a standard pedal bike now. When the boys are long-since on their own bikes and our first electric bike is on its last legs, I’d go for another electric model again; you get all the gain but none of the pain. Crucially for a family cargo bike there is one other great advantage of having the electric assist. Starting off with two children on the back of a bike isn’t easy until you get used to it because there’s such a shift in balance. But our model has a special boost for that purpose on the handle and when you use it from a standing start it removes any wobbles as you get going. Long-tail or Christiana? I knew I wanted a long-tail cargo bike rather than a Christiana-style bike (those with a big box on the front or back). Our route to school takes in some narrow country lanes and I felt a Christiana-style bike would be too wide to steer away from a car if one came around a corner unexpectedly. A wider bike would also be more difficult to park and lock up on trips into town. With such a big investment, I also wanted a bike that I could continue to use once the children are cycling to school on their own bikes and the long-tail looks and feels much more like a ‘normal’ bike so I can see myself using it well into the future. The other option would have been a low-to-the-ground trailer attachment and, while there’s an argument that people drive more carefully around them, I felt our boys would be too vulnerable so low down. Nor did I like the idea of them travelling along at optimum exhaust-inhaling level. A tag-along If we hadn’t needed an electric bike the best solution I came across was the Roland Add+Bike attachment. Unlike most tag-alongs, the crucial factor here is the way it attaches to the bike; it was the only tag-along we came across where the fixing is such that you can also have an infant seat attached to the panier rack of your bike for a second (younger) child. This might still have worked for us but neither the manufacturer nor any of the stockists we contacted (nor the electric bike manufacturers we asked) could tell us whether this would work with an electric bike. Someone had warned us that there might be a load issue with an attachment tagged onto an electric bike and, without being able to get a definitive answer, we decided not to gamble on an expensive mistake. Conversion kits If you’re handy there’s also the possibility of adapting your own bike with a DIY cargo bike kit (eg Xtracycle) but we’re not especially handy and I knew if we bought a standard electric bike and modified it and something went wrong we’d invalidate any guarantee we had, a risk I didn’t want to take. There are obviously load issues to take into account, too, if you’re thinking of going down that route. A test ride If you’re not sure which family cargo bike set-up is best for you and you live in the south of England I recommend a day trip to Kids & Family Cycles in Bournemouth (also not far from the glorious Dorset Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty if you're thinking of staying for a few days). Though they stock many more non-electric options than electric you can try a few models and figure out whether you want a long-tail, a Christiana, a parent-and-child tandem or various trailer attachments. It’s also right by Friars Cliff Beach, a family-friendly spot with a simple beach café which, together with a few test bike rides, makes a great day out with young children. Unfortunately, although our visit helped us make the decision to go for a long-tail model, the only electric version the company stocked at the time was outside our price range. The end of our search It seems the best-known long-tail cargo bikes on sale in the UK that are also available with electric assist are probably the Yuba Mundo and the Yuba Boda Boda but these are imported from the States and the weak pound when we were looking meant that they were beyond our budget. Almost the only long-tail cargo bike with electric assist that we could find in the UK for under £3,000 was the version we bought, the eZee Expedir, a Chinese-made bike imported by Cyclezee in Milton Keynes. Again this meant a long journey for a test ride (or returns, should we have any major problems with it in the future). And Cyclezee is not signed up to the Cycle to Work scheme, which was disappointing, but business owner, John Douglas, went out of his way to help us and knows the bikes inside-out. He also made some sensible suggestions about various customisations we had asked for - a very positive experience. In all, including an oversized cargo basket shelf on the front, both the boys’ bikes seats, Osian’s pedals and handlebars and delivery to Bath it cost us £2,000. Almost exactly as much as we spent on our car but then that’s exactly what we’re thinking of it as - a second car. And that, essentially, is that. A bicycle made for three that’s fun for all the family. It took me two weeks to feel really confident on it – and to memorise where all the side-of-the-road potholes were (now I understand why all those cyclists hog the middle of the road!) – and I learnt the hard way that daydreaming while cycling along a lane the autumn bramble-trimmers have just swept along is not a great idea (replacing a spiked inner tube is a major operation on a bike like this). But otherwise it’s been plain sailing. Or, rather, plain pedalling.