The Green Traveller Digest Welcome to my latest round up of news about green travel. This newsletter is written by me, Richard Hammond, the founder of Green Traveller. Please do forward this newsletter to anyone you think might be interested in receiving it or ask them to subscribe via the link on the button below: HELP FOR UKRAINE The 'Travel for Ukraine' online auction #Travel for Ukraine is an auction of holidays, hotel stays and experiences to raise money for the DEC Ukraine Humanitarian Appeal. It's organised by The Healthy Holiday Company and Travel Tonic in partnership with The Sunday Times and others in the travel industry. The online auction will close at 23.59 GMT this Sunday, 8th May. Latest news about Green Travel The Green Traveller Twenty years in the making, my book The Green Traveller – conscious adventure that doesn't cost the earth – has been published this week by Pavilion Books. It's a back-to-basics 'how to' guide to green travel with tips on planning overland travel, where to find sustainable food and drink, how to pack and travel plastic-free, and how to book organised green holidays, as well as lots of slow travel and car-free itineraries. It is also peppered throughout with Top 10's, including off-grid places to stay, hostels near railway stations, campsites reachable by public transport, greenway cycle routes, foraging breaks, treehouse holidays, rewilding projects, wildlife watching trips, city breaks, citizen science projects, positive-impact adventures, and many more. The book has been produced by an outstanding team, overseen by the experienced commissioning editor Sophie Allen at Pavilion Books; beautifully designed by Tina Smith; wonderfully illustrated by Naomi Wilkinson; and the stunning photos are mostly by James Bowden. It can be ordered via Ethical Book Search, at Bookshop.org and on Amazon. Wales on Rails launched Wales on Rails is a new initiative to promote the use of public transport throughout Wales. The website walesonrails.co.uk brings together the Wales and Borders rail network, the 12 heritage and steam railways, and long distance bus routes, showcasing how the sustainable transport network can be used to travel around the country to a range of tourist attractions. The website includes 1-7 day itineraries and a handy interactive map of all the public transport routes. Explore measures the carbon of all trips Small group adventure travel company Explore Worldwide has individually-calculated carbon footprints for every one of its 500+ tours. The company has unveiled the results of its four month long carbon-measurement project, which it says is the largest of its kind in the industry to date. The company says the average trip carbon footprint is 632kg. Its lowest-footprint trip, Walk the South Downs is calculated to emit 59kg per person, while the lowest 7-night trips are Cycle Canal de Midi and Active Turkey at 79kg per person. Explore says carbon measurement is one part of its three-step Climate Action Plan to Measure, Reduce and Mitigate carbon so it can reduce its carbon footprint across its operations by 50% before 2030. UK's "First Hotel Forest Garden" opens in North Yorkshire Raithwaite Sandsend Hotel has announced it has created "the UK’s very first hotel forest garden" in North Yorkshire – to supply the hotel’s kitchen year-round. Over 500 trees and shrubs have been planted in the grounds of the hotel’s 100-acre estate – between the sea and the moors – to create a biodiverse edible landscape for the hotel’s chefs and mixologists to pick from. Beginner's Guide to Walking Holidays Slow holiday company Inntravel has published an online guide to walking holidays with tips on how novices can choose their first ever break on foot, whether at home or abroad. Topics featured include avoiding the busy honeypot sites, whether to opt for an itinerant hotel-to-hotel or a single centre holiday; tips for judging how difficult the walking will be; whether to opt for the flexibility of a self-guided holiday with route notes and maps provided, or a guided group walking; what to pack for a walking trip; and preparing and getting fit ahead of the holiday. Sweden’s first Unesco Global Geopark The table mountain region of the Platåbergens landscape has been named as Sweden’s first Unesco Global Geopark. The geopark status means that it contains "geological sites and landscapes that are considered unique and of international importance" that showcase the connection "between our planet’s history and human development in the area". Introducing #KipKiosk online store for small businesses A new spin on the ‘shoppable’ holiday cottage, #KipKiosk is an online store from holiday rental agency #KipHideaways. Selling pieces by independent makers and small businesses found in the company’s rentals, they range from decoupage shells to zero-waste blankets. Eco villas in Tuscany Villa rental specialists, Tuscany Now & More, Italy, has launched a portfolio of 'sustainable villas' that they say they have done in response to "an influx of enquiries for destinations with an ecological benefit". Included in the sustainable portfolio are Granaio Lavandoloso, Umbria, which runs entirely on solar energy; Santa Dieci, Siena, which promotes 'natural' wine; and Il Soldano, East of Florence, which has charging stations for electric cars (type 2 connector) available in the garage for the guests of the house (at an additional price of Euro 150 per week). Children's Water Safety leaflet published A beautifully illustrated children's water safety leaflet has been produced by Ironbridge Coracle Trust based on advice issued by the Royal Life Saving Society. The Trust is also the subject of Rhiannon Batten's recent article in the Guardian about test driving a new coracle hire service in Ironbridge, tapping into the basket-shaped boats' long history along the river there. For more information: ironbridgecoracles.org. For upcoming events and activities: facebook.com/IronbridgeCoracleTrust SNCF launches mainline Ouigo service French transport company SNCF has launched a mainline low cost Ouigo service, reports the International Rail Journal, and says it will increase the frequency of the new Paris Austerlitz - Nantes and Paris Bercy - Lyon Perrache service in May. Carbon footprint of a ski holiday Ski Flight Free has published an infographic showing the carbon cost of a day's skiing. The data was based on a study by the French ski areas of La Clusaz, Le Grand Bornand and Tignes, which concluded that the carbon footprint of a day’s skiing is 48.9 kgCO2. However, Ski Flight Free says that "the top line figure contains a lot of variability depending on individual choices, the most important of which is how you choose to travel to resort". Going green in the Malverns Malvern Hills District Council has launched a green tourism scheme to recognise the efforts of local tourism businesses in reducing their impact on the environment. The Green Mark, which is specifically for tourism and hospitality businesses operating across The Malverns, has already been awarded to The Cottage in the Wood Hotel, The Fold in Bransford, Rowley Farm Holidays, Black Dog Adventures and Hazelhurst Farm. How to urban forage safely The BBC has produced a handy guide to urban foraging in spring and early summer, with tips on foraging safely for wild garlic, dandelions, nettles, and elderflower. Elsewhere in the world this week Sextantio Rwanda, Lake Kivu opens Sextantio Rwanda has opened The Capanne Project that aims to support the local community in Rwanda by encouraging guests to make donations rather than pay traditional set room rates. Guests can padde in dugout canoes on the lake and go on trips to the Nyungwe Forest National Park for sightings of a dozen primate species. Sextantio’s founder, Daniele Kihlgren, hopes that guests will also embrace village life, visiting schools, health centres and learning about the sustainable farming practices used by the community's population. Donations are directed to "the neediest in Rwanda" to provide them with health insurance. Good news for... Natural History Education: A new natural history GCSE is to produced by 2025. According to the Department for Education's Education Hub: "The new Natural History qualification will enable young people to explore the world by learning about organisms and environments, environmental and sustainability issues, and gain a deeper knowledge of the natural world around them. They will also develop the skills to help them carve a future career in the natural world if they wish to – for example observation, description, recording and analysis, through sustained and structured field study." The GCSE is currently being developed by the OCR exam board. Bad news for... Birds: A global review has found that billions of birds are disappearing because of humanity’s impact on Earth, the Guardian reports. It says that populations of half of all 11,000 species of bird spanning the globe are falling, while just 6% are increasing. My Tip of the Week City to Sea, an environmental organisation on a mission to stop plastic pollution, has produced a handy app (refill.org.uk) to help you locate over 400 local refill schemes across the UK, places with discounts if you bring your own cup, as well as over 270,000 refill stations worldwide that offer water refills. And Finally... Hotels with natural swimming pools The Guardian (Aquatic bliss: 10 of Europe's best holiday sites with natural pools) and the Telegraph (behind its paywall) have both published an edited extract of my feature on hotels with natural swimming pools from my book The Green Traveller. Places featured include a treehouse camp in France, an organic farm in Ibiza, and this beauty in Tuscany... Jump in, the water's lovely!

The Green Traveller Digest Welcome to my latest round up of news about green travel. This newsletter is written by me, Richard Hammond, the founder of Green Traveller. Please do forward this newsletter to anyone you think might be interested in receiving it or ask them to subscribe via the link on the button below: HELP FOR UKRAINE Chris Haslam considers in The Times whether Ukrainian refugees could take up work in the UK's hospitality sector, and how they might avoid being exploited. He asks "With around 230,000 positions unfilled — and jobs often coming with food, accommodation, training and support — could this be a positive option for new arrivals?" Juliet Kinsman has compiled a round-up in Condé Nast Traveller of worldwide initiatives by the travel industry to help Ukrainian refugees, including a global directory for accommodation providers that matches refugees with available rooms. Latest news about Green Travel Launch of first certified hiking trail in Switzerland A new 20-stage hiking route, Via Berna, is to launch in Switzerland next month. The route combines cities, lakes and mountains from the Bernese Jura, past the Swiss capital of Bern, along Lake Thun towards the Alps and finally on to the Sustenpass. There are several ‘vias’ in Switzerland, but the Via Berna is the first in the country to be awarded the European certification ‘Leading Quality Trail (Best of Europe)’. Electric car chargepoints to overtake fuel pumps The Department for Transport has announced that by the end of the decade, the number of charge points for electric cars will be equivalent to almost five times the number of fuel pumps on UK roads today (from 30,000 to over 300,000). Under the plans, drivers will be able to compare prices and pay by contactless card. However, the RAC said that while the chargepoint target "might sound impressive", it is concerned the number is "not going to be sufficient" for growing demand, reports the BBC. Brittany Ferries increases sailings between Ireland and France In more upbeat ferry news this week, operator Brittany Ferries has confirmed it is to resume sailings this summer with the return of ships such as Bretagne (Portsmouth – St Malo), the re-start of services from Plymouth and Poole, and an increase in the number of ships sailing between Ireland and France. In a statement, the company says that "since Brexit, Ireland has become increasingly important for Brittany Ferries and its freight customers. This has been reflected in the opening of direct trade routes between ports like Le Havre and Rosslare, sometimes described as the Brexit by-pass. Now, there’s more good news for freight, but also for passengers. Flagship of the fleet Pont-Aven, will return to serve French and Irish passengers as well as freight drivers on Roscoff to Cork. And there will be two round trips per week on this beautifully appointed cruise-ferry". Britanny Ferries first LNG-powered vessel will sail for the first time with passengers from Portsmouth to Bilbao this Sunday (27 March), which will also run a weekly trip between Portsmouth and Cherbourg. The company says LNG power promises far lower emissions in ports and while at sea, cutting particulates and sulphur, and reducing nitrogen dioxide emissions by ninety percent. Guide to travelling as a foot passenger from the UK to Europe According to the latest data on carbon emissions provided by the Department for Business, Energy and Industrial Strategy, travelling as a ferry foot passenger is one of the least impactful ways of travelling abroad. For anyone who'd like more information on how to just that, I've written a guide to How to travel as a ferry foot passenger, with details of how to get to the ports by public transport as well as how to connect with local transport services on arrival. The good news is that you can travel as a foot passenger on many ferry services out of the UK and enjoy all the benefits of modern ferry travel – bars and restaurants, plenty of entertainment and facilities for families, comfortable overnight cabins and no bag restrictions. The ports on both sides of the crossing are well connected by public transport, so it’s easy to travel by bus or train to the ports in the UK, as well as disembark on the other side and continue your journey overland. A Film for WWOOF Volunteering exchange organisation WWOOF (Worldwide Opportunities on Organic Farms) has published a new film about its work (see below). Made by the young filmmaker Louis Johnson, who was winner of the YOOF International Video Award in 2019, the film was shot on location at one of its host farms in Norfolk. WWOOF is part of a worldwide effort to link visitors with organic farmers, promote educational exchange and build a global community conscious of ecological farming practices. The organisations says "Land-based practical skills are more popular than ever within the dual challenges of the climate emergency and coronavirus, so now is the best time ever to explore the UK countryside and learn relevant knowledge in a very practical setting through hands-on experiences". Big Walk and Wheel Sustainable transport charity Sustrans is again running its annual campaign to encourage children to walk, scooter or cycle to school. Formerly known as the 'Sustrans Big Pedal', the #BigWalkAndWheel aims to highlight the benefits an active school run can have on children and young people’s physical and mental health, as well as the environment. This year’s event runs from 21 March to 1 April and participating schools can compete to win prizes such as bike racks, creative playground markings and micro scooters. The joy of... Shropshire Travel writer Annabelle Thorpe has written in the Guardian about 10 brilliant things to do in Shropshire – that "may be one of the UK's quietest counties" that's great for a slow travel break, from canoeing the Severn to experiencing foodie Ludlow and walking the famous hills. Leave No Trace Ireland Kilkenny Leader Partnership and Leave No Trace Ireland have produced an online training course for the general public. The course "is designed to raise awareness and give a better understanding of recreation related impacts, the Seven Principles of Leave No Trace, and how Leave No Trace skills and ethics can help protect the outdoor places we love". The course takes 40-60 minutes to complete. Direct trains to connect Malaga and Granada Euro Weekly News reports that Spanish rail operator Renfe has announced that it will be operating direct trains between Malaga and Granada for the first time from early April. The report says that there will be twice daily departures from Malaga (9.25am and 8.25pm) and from Granada (at 7.40am and 6.50pm). The service will also stop in Loja and in Antequera (once its high-speed station has been built). In praise of Swiss Railways The year 1847 marked the start of what would become the densest public transport network in the world with the opening of the first Swiss train route between Zurich and Baden. To celebrate 175 years since what was known as the Spanisch Brötli Bahn began, a programme of events is planned across Switzerland between May and October, including a nostalgic ride along the route itself. Protect Our Winters Mobility Week Outdoor enthusiasts are being asked to raise awareness of the emissions caused by travelling to the great outdoors. According to the organisers of POW mobility week (28 March – 1 April), about 70% of emissions from outdoor recreation are related to transport, and the car is still the most popular mode of transport to reach outdoor areas for sports and recreation. The initiative will see individuals and organisations throughout Europe tracking their movements through an Active Giving app and sharing their sustainable travel stories on social media using the hashtag #POWMobilityWeek. Elsewhere in the world this week Good news for... The World's Forests: The Guardian reports new research has found that the world’s forests do more than just store carbon. New data suggests forests play a far greater role in tackling climate crisis than previously thought, including helping keep the Earth at least half a degree cooler. Bad news for... The Great Barrier Reef: The Guardian reports that the marine park's authority has confirmed that there has been an "unprecedented sixth mass coral bleaching event". Aerial surveys show almost no reefs across a 1,200km stretch have escaped the effects of high temperatures. My Tip of the Week If you're travelling by Eurostar to Paris, you can buy paper tickets for the Paris Metro as well as the Navigo Easy card (the new, prepaid Paris travel card) from the bar buffet on board Eurostar – it will save you time on arrival at Gare du Nord where the queues at the staffed counters can be long. And Finally... How to Recycle Should you crush cans, peel off labels, and switch from plastic to cardboard cartons? The BBC's Radio 4's You and Yours programme spoke to sustainability expert James Piper about the best ways to recycle. If you're confused about the rules, here's a really useful guide to the best ways to recycle.

The Green Traveller Digest Welcome to my latest round up of news, features and comments on green travel. This newsletter is written by me, Richard Hammond, the founder of Green Traveller. Please do forward this newsletter to anyone you think might be interested in receiving it or ask them to subscribe via the link on the button below: HELP FOR UKRAINE Transport: Trainline has published advice for refugees travelling from Ukraine to other countries in Europe, including a list of train and bus operators offering free transport for refugees from Ukraine to Europe as well as information on the rights Ukrainian refugees have in the EU (available in Ukrainian). Hospitality: Gemma Bowes provides a round-up in the Guardian of the many initiatives offered by organisations in the travel industry to support refugees from Ukraine, including: Hospitality for Ukraine, which is encouraging those in the hospitality sector to offer free accommodation for refugees; Airbnb's provision of short-term housing for refugees; and Hospitality Helps, which is connecting refugees with hotels willing to provide free rooms in European cities. Latest news about Green Travel: New 'biosphere' treehouse at Sweden's Treehotel The Treehotel, in Swedish Lapland, has announced a new addition to its unique collection of arboreal abodes. The new 'Biosphere' includes 350 bird houses and is "designed to attract wildlife and to fully immerse guests in the surrounding forest". It's the eighth room at the Treehotel; existing structures include unique designs created by some of Scandinavia’s most renowned architects, from Snöhetta and Rintala Eggerstsson to Tham & Videgård. To get a sense of the background to the Treehotel, here's a review by Rhiannon Batten of the original treehouse when it first opened. The new Biosphere structure will be open to visitors in May. How far can you drive an electric vehicle without charging? The average electric vehicle can now travel for 198 miles on a full charge, but the UK's five most popular models keep going for 280 miles, on average, according to 'The Eco Experts' who provide advice for UK homeowners on eco-friendly options. Their latest report, Electric Vehicle Statistics 2022: State of the Industry, says that "if you were driving north from the centre of London, you could make it to Birmingham, Leeds, or Manchester with some juice left in the tank. And if you wanted to go south, you could get to Exeter and even Plymouth without needing to recharge – and if you’re looking westwards, Swansea is well within range". New eco adventures in Spain A collection of new outdoor eco adventures has been launched in Sierra Espuña Nature Park and its surroundings, in Murcia, southeast Spain. The itineraries are categorised into six themes – Adventure; Among Birds; On Wheels; Panoramic Moment; Flavour Route; and Paths – and have been designed "with visitors of all different ages and physical conditions in mind, offering distinctive ways in which to enjoy the fresh air and direct contact with nature". Going green with Caledonian Travel Coach holiday specialist Caledonian Travel is undertaking a green makeover of its fleet of coaches. Replacing the company's iconic red lion with a new green counterpart is part of Caledonian's wider campaign to highlight the green credentials of coach holidays. In a statement the company says: "At a time when people are looking to make better eco-friendly choices to reduce their carbon footprint, coach travel is recognised as the most sustainable mode of transport for holiday choices and will play a key role as the UK aims to reach its net zero target by 2050." Citing figures from a 2019 Confederation of Passenger Transport report, it asserts that "a 15% increase in coach passenger journeys by British people each year would lead to approximately 47 million fewer cars on the road, saving over a quarter of a million tonnes of carbon dioxide and significantly reducing congestion on our roads." Two new hiking trails in West Sweden The Biosphere Trail is a new 138 km long-distance path in Västergötland, running from Mariestad to Läckö Castle via Kinnekulle. The trail explores one of the Biosphere Reserves chosen by UNESCO to create a long-term sustainable relationship between people and their local environment. Also new is the Kroppefjäll Trail, a 32 km route traversing West Sweden’s largest wilderness area, in Dalsland. The trail open in June with more stages, shelters, boardwalks and waymarks taking walkers through areas of dense spruce woodland and wetlands in the company (if you're lucky) of moose and buzzards. Slow Travel in Herefordshire The Black & White Villages Trail – first launched in the 1980s – has been re-launched this year with a new route for cyclists, a dedicated family itinerary, circular walks and public transport options. Visit Herefordshire is breathing new life into the route (much of the route explores Herefordshire's cider country), launching an updated guide with a dedicated cycle route that can be downloaded to Strava. Specialist local cycle operator Wheely Wonderful Cycling is also offering self-guided cycling trips along the route, with accommodation, luggage transfer, bike hire and maps included. Based in the village of Weobley, the trips take in a string of black and white villages over three days' pedalling. Follow the conversation on social via a dedicated hashtag #blackandwhitebuzz. Great West Way Launches new ‘Journey of Discovery Map’ A new map has been produced to help visitors explore the Great West Way – the route between London and Bristol – in a sustainable way, travelling on GWR trains and buses using the Great West Way Discoverer pass. Chris Lund of Great Western Railway said the Great West Way Discoverer pass "joins up the big-draw locations, such as Bath, Bristol and Windsor with lesser-known but equally interesting market towns, chocolate box villages and quintessentially English countryside – all without needing to jump in a car. The route is easily accessible for all visitors at only £139 for a 7-day pass for international visitors and options to spilt to an East and West ticket for domestic visitors – it’s truly flexible and great value for money”. The map is the latest initiative promoting the route, others include a guide to the Kennet & Avon Canal, a specialist Food & Drink Map, and 125 Things To Do Along the Great West Way. Yorkshire Wolds Way turns 40 The Yorkshire Wolds Way National Trail is celebrating its 40th anniversary this year. The 79-mile walking route stretches from the Humber estuary to Filey Brigg, on the Yorkshire coast via wooded slopes and tranquil valleys. You can find details of events and activities celebrating the anniversary, as well as a downloadable Yorkshire Wolds guide, on a special section of the Visit East Yorkshire website. New interactive map for Camino Lebaniego A new interactive map has been published showcasing local culture and activities along the Camino Lebaniego, a 75km hiking trail which runs from San Vicente de la Barquera (just off the northern part of the Camino de Santiago) to the monastery of Santo Toribio de Liébana. Experiences highlighted on the new map include the Orulisa winery, Las Cortes ecological farm, and Las Brañas de Pendes cheese factory. The pilgrimage route of Lebaniego will celebrate its Jubilee Year in 2023-24. This week Good news for... Green Sea Turtles: The Times reports that, thanks to a ban on hunting turtles on the Aldabra Atoll, Seychelles in 1968, the number of green sea turtles (listed as an endangered species by the International Union for the Conservation of Nature) on the atoll has expanded fivefold in the 50 years since the hunting ban was brought in, "proving how effective such measures can be". Bad news for... P&O Ferries: The Guardian reports that the UK ferry operator "has sacked 800 British crew across its entire fleet after stopping all its sailings on Thursday". If you're booked on a ferry and are unsure how it affects you and whether alternative arrangements are available, see the Twitter feed of P&O Ferries. My Tip of the Week People Power: Find a citizen science project using Zooniverse, which lists dozens of projects, from seabird watches to exploring the secret life of the Mont Blanc massif. Closer to home, the Wildlife Trusts run national and regional citizen science projects throughout the UK, see: wildlifetrusts.org/citizen-science. The BBC website also has a useful section on where to find citizen science projects. And Finally... Green Traveller has a new look! Do check out the new design and navigation: greentraveller.co.uk

The Green Traveller Digest Welcome to my latest round up of news about green travel. This newsletter is written by me, Richard Hammond, the founder of Green Traveller. If you'd like to receive the newsletter by email, please subscribe here. Opinion Piece Post-Brexit rules detain us on the borders of Europe's rail renaissance I've written an opinion piece in the i Paper on how the failure to adequately prepare for new post-Brexit checks is limiting our access to more sustainable travel options just at a time when Europe's rail network is growing. Green Travel News EU announces plan to support 10 cross-border rail projects The European Commission has announced it will support 10 pilot projects to "improve cross-border rail connections across the EU, making them faster, more frequent and more affordable". The projects include new services connecting Hungary, Austria and western Romania; Midnight Trains' new overnight sleeper service Paris via Milan to Venice; and European Sleeper's new night train service from Amsterdam to Barcelona, and new services connecting Madrid with Lisbon and Catalonia with the South of France. New travel app launched to reward travellers for using sustainable transport A new travel app has launched to reward people with money-saving vouchers for using public transport. The free-to-use app, called Sojo, has been created by Swiss company, Axon Vibe, in partnership with UK-based Raileasy. Purchasing a ticket through the app triggers vouchers from retail partners providing offers such as a free coffees, pastries, or clothing and leisure deals. George Sikking, Chief Executive of Raileasy, said: "With 92% of Brits thinking about how they can save money and 75% concerned about climate change, we just knew that there was a marketplace for something which would tackle both. Sojo is an absolute win-win, rewarding people financially for saving the earth's natural resources. We think that the climate conscious people of Great Britain will love it". Jeremy Acklam, managing director of Axon Vibe, has given an interview to Railway Technology's Jasleen Mann about the development of the app and its future deployment in other countries. Wilderness England launches new sailing holidays Specialist operator Wilderness England has introduced two new sailing holidays for 2023. Sailing aboard the Eda Frandsen, a 75-year-old cutter, guests will get a fresh perspective of the coastline of England, gliding into secluded bays along the coast of Cornwall or further afield along the west coast of the UK, with options to stop at the Isle of Man, Ireland and the southern Hebrides. Set up following the pandemic, Wilderness England is a sister company to the award-winning Wilderness Scotland and Wilderness Ireland. Each Wilderness holiday has an exact carbon score, so that guests can make informed decisions about the impact of their holiday. Hertz and Uber to bring up to 25,000 electric vehicles to European Capitals Hertz and Uber have announced a European expansion to their North American partnership through which Hertz will make up to 25,000 electric vehicles (EVs) available to Uber drivers in European capital cities by 2025 – starting in London with the aim to expand to Paris and Amsterdam. In a joint statement released by the two companies, it said "a wide range of suitable EVs will be on offer, including vehicles from Tesla and Polestar". Dara Khosrowshahi, Uber CEO, said: “Climate change is the most urgent global challenge which we must all tackle together – now is the time to accelerate. Expanding our partnership with Hertz into Europe will significantly boost our transition to zero-emissions, helping drivers reduce running costs and cleaning up urban transport. We aim to become a 100% electric platform across Europe by 2030.” Airline passengers face potentially higher fares under new EU emissions rules Airline passengers face potentially higher fares under new EU emissions rules as Brussels makes the industry pay more for pollution, report Alice Hancock, Philip Georgiadis & Camilla Hodgson in the Financial Times. The Swedish tech startup that's helping cities go green. Jon Henley writes in The Guardian about an online tool used by more than 50 cities that is helping planners weigh costs against climate and social benefits This week Good news for: Green Education in France University courses in France are to be adapted to include instruction on climate change under a new government plan, reports Charles Bremner in The Times. Information about the "ecological transition" will be taught in every degree, from history and philosophy to engineering and botany. Bad news for: Snow in the Alps Joe Goodman reports for Carbon Brief that the duration of snow cover in the Alps "is now 36 days shorter than the long-term average" – an “unprecedented” decline over the past 600 years – according to recent research published in Nature Climate Change. The study used ring-width records from juniper shrubs to assess snow cover duration in the Alps over the past six centuries. Joe reports that "The findings are significant for the millions of people who depend on meltwater from the Alps snowpack every year for “agricultural, industrial and domestic purposes”, as well as “winter tourism and related recreation activities”, Goodman reports. See also: Eco-activists vandalise snow machines in French Alps My Tip of the Week To offset or not to offset? "Carbon offsets can help achieve emissions goals, some experts argue, while others say they are actively dangerous". The Guardian has published a series of articles by Fiona Harvey and Patrick Greenfield that consider the effectiveness of carbon offsetting. News from Green Traveller Green Traveller's Guide to Formentera, Spain We've published a green travel guide to the beautiful island of Formentera. The southernmost and smallest inhabited island of the Balearics, Formentera is just 30-minutes by ferry from Ibiza but feels light years away. The entire northern part of the island is a nature reserve, while the south is a mix of juniper and pine forests fringed by sand dunes; beyond the island's white-sand coast, underwater meadows of the seagrass plant Posidonia Oceanica help maintain crystal clear turquoise waters. A network of 32 signposted walking and cycling trails criss-cross the island's mostly gentle terrain and there are some wonderful places to sample the local cuisine, from lounge bars and seafood cafes to inland wineries and cutting-edge vegetarian restaurants. Green Traveller's Guide to Formentera How to travel overland from the UK to Formentera Formentera doesn't have an airport, so the only way to reach it is by boat. From mainland Spain, there are direct ferries to Formentera from Barcelona and Denia, or you can take a ferry from Barcelona, Valencia or Denia to Ibiza from where you catch the 30-minute inter-island ferry to Formentera. The first leaves at 7am and the last at 8.30pm. See our step-by-step guide to How to travel to Formentera overland from the UK

Estonian cuisine, from traditional farmhouse fare to modern classics, is world class. Earlier this year, over 30 restaurants (from Tallinn to Tartu, and from Mäeküla to Kloogaranna,) were recognised by MICHELIN, and two (Põhjaka Manor in in Mäeküla and Fotografiska in Tallinn) were awarded a MICHELIN Green Star for their commitment to sustainable gastronomy. With forestland dominating the country’s geography, many of the new crop of ambitious young chefs are taking inspiration from what grows in the nearby landscape, making the most of local produce in their menus. From the beginning of July until the end of October, the forests are overflowing with mushrooms, nuts, herbs and berries that are subsequently found on menus across the country. As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Estonia, here's a selection of just some of the wonderful places to find local food and drink in Estonia where you can feast on seasonal ingredients, including the local fisherman’s catch, taste internationally award-winning cheese and the nation’s wine and spirits. What they all have in common is that they celebrate the best of Estonian cuisine whether that’s in the traditional sense or the contemporary equivalent, in some stunning settings. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Estonia: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Ööbiku Gastronomy Farm Less than an hour’s drive from Tallinn, but it feels like another world. Feast on a five-course set menu of fine dining at this charming farm in the heart of the countryside. Owner and head chef Ants Uustalu is passionate about sourcing his ingredients from local farmers and seasonal forest fare (berries, mushrooms and wild animals), creating imaginative dishes using traditional methods that he pairs with wines. If the taste and experience inspires you to learn more, join a full day’s cookery course led by Ants. oobiku.ee Tori Cider Farm Learn how to cultivate fruit trees into cider as well as fruit and berry wine using techniques developed over generations at this historic organic farm among the bogs and rivers of Soomaa national park. The owners are on a zero-waste mission to eliminate production residues. Don’t miss seeing the old feral apple tree whose golden apples are used to make the unique Tori Cider Farm cider. siidritalu.ee Cafe Taarka Tarõ Come here to experience Seto culture [link to https://www.visitestonia.com/en/why-estonia/know-about-setomaa-estonias-hidden-treasure-from-a-local] whose land is between southeast Estonia and the northwest Pskov Oblast of the Russian federation. Cafe hosts, Rieka and Aare Hõrn, are long-standing Seto cultural leaders, and provide genuine Seto food (such as onion pie and sõir - a fresh pressed curd cheese) plus a selection of Finno-Ugric and Ukrainian dishes. facebook.com/TaarkaTaroOu Murimäe winery Taste five craft wines made in Estonia and match them with local food at this lovely back-to-nature vineyard in the heart of Otepää. Tour the vineyard and wine cellar while learn the principles of pairing artisanal wine with food. Stay overnight in the guesthouse (for up to 5) and in the summer, there’s the choice of staying in one of two bell tents on the shores of beautiful Lake Nahajärv. murimaevein.ee Restaurant Fotografiska Within a sumptuous light-filled room in the eponymous international photography museum close to Tallinn’s main railway station, Fotografiska pioneering zero-waste food and beverage is based on the idea of "Sustainable Pleasure". Sourbread is brought to you on plates made from the baking trays of a former bread factory, cabbage paste (instead of butter) is served on a cut-out section of a wine bottle, and any minimal food waste that is generated is composted within 24 hours. It was awarded a MICHELIN green star in 2022 for its commitment to sustainable gastronomy, but lest you think sustainability means a compromise on taste, the restaurant was awarded 2nd place in the Master Class of Estonian restaurants White Guide 2022. The menu contains mainly vegetarian food, buy you can add the meat or fish of the day. In the summer, you can sit outside on the terrace with splendid views of how the city is fast developing. fotografiska.com Restaurant Kaerajaan Book a table as this characterful restaurant in the heart of Tallinn for a modern take on traditional Estonian cuisine. An example of a starter is smoked tongue, cheese, hummus, pickled cucumber, pickled pumpkin, ribs, pickled herring, while for main course you might be offered crispy duck breast with farm beetroot, cinema and Põltsamaa red wine sauce and oatmeal salmon burger with guacamole and roasted sweet potatoes. https://www.kaerajaan.ee Restaurant Ungru Open in the summer only, this homely, rustic but cosy seaside restaurant on the north shore of Hiiumaa specialises in providing modern flavours of local traditional food from the island, including vegan options. It’s particularly popular with yachties who can moor their boats right outside the restaurant. facebook.com/UNGRUMAJA Lee restaurant In the Old Town of Tallinn, the stylish Lee restaurant, expertly run by ‘professional foodies’ Janno and Kristjan, provides an international-inspired menu using local ingredients from Estonian farms and forests, including vegan options. There’s a commitment to reducing food waste and the restaurant is powered entirely by solar, wind, and hydro energy. ‘Lee’ is a word used to describe life around the ancient Estonian communal fireplace around – “a place to prepare and share delicious meals together”. leeresto.ee Põhjaka Manor Popular with travellers heading along the Tallinn-Tartu road (the beautiful manor dates back to the 19th Century), the focus here is on classic Estonia food using local ingredients, in an effort to reduce the restaurant’s ecological footprint. Awarded a MICHELIN green star in 2022 for its commitment to sustainable gastronomy. facebook.com/pohjaka Kihnu Gurmee A remarkable cultural culinary experience on the island of Kihnu whose ‘Cultural Space’ was included in UNESCO's list of Masterpieces of Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity. Choose up to five courses of high-quality local food, including vegan options. For those who want to stay here (it’s just 500m to a beach), there are several options for accommodation, including a lovely guesthouse with 6 double rooms, a old barn with two rooms, and two camping houses for up to 4 beds each. Don’t miss the sauna, built in an old fishing boat. kastanimajutus.com Peninuki distillery The first distillery in southern Estonia (in the heart of Tartu), Peninuki is the brainchild of a small group of friends with a love of real ciders, meads, rum, gin and ‘new age whiskey’ created using traditional craftmanship combined with modern methods. See the craftsmanship in action in the smart Widget Factory. peninuki.ee Andre Cheese Farm On the border of Tartu County, discover how internationally award-winning Estonian cheese is made at this farm that dates back to the owner’s grandfather. You can also feed the cows (there are 180) and taste the delicious cheese in the onsite farm shop. andrefarm.ee Local Heritage Café of Juulamõis A family-run health food café (with lots of vegetarian choices, soups and salads, and local products) in Juula village, Vooremaa that’s handy if you’re en route to the Ice Age Centre, Elistvere Animal Park or Vudila Playland. juulamois.ee Lümanda Tavern Classic Saaremaa farm food served in a former church school, close to the glorious Viidumäe Nature Reserve, Pilguse Manor and Mihkli Farm Museum Vikil. Feast on the local fisherman’s latest catch, while the organic vegetables are grown in the surrounding fields. soogimaja.planet.ee Pädaste Manor This restaurant, in the north west of Muhu island, is within a luxury spa hotel in an impressive manor that dates back to the 15th Century. Chef de Cuisine Fahri Çetinyürek specialise in seasonal innovative Nordic Islands’ Cuisine, making use of local ingredients sourced from the sea, forests, meadows and neighbouring islands, while many of the salads and herbs are grown in the manor’s own gardens and green houses. padaste.ee == For nearby places to stay, and local places of interest and low impact activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Estonia

A new survey of British travellers' attitudes to sustainable travel has found that many consider sustainability is important when selecting a holiday. The survey*, commissioned by the Spanish Tourism Office (UK), found that 86% of British respondents value sustainability as either ‘important’ or ‘very important’ when selecting a holiday destination. This figure rises to 94% amongst 18–24-year-olds and drops to 75% amongst those aged 65 and above. When asked which destinations they could easily travel to and around sustainably, the United Kingdom was the top choice (74%). Outside of the UK, 66% of respondents said it’s easy to have a sustainable holiday in Spain, followed by France (65%), Germany (59%) and Italy (57%). Despite this, over half of Spain visitors were not aware of any sustainability measures the country has taken. Just one in eight (12%) of respondents could provide an example of the measures Spain as a travel destination has taken to become more sustainable. Over a third (34%) were unsure, and over half (54%) were not aware of any sustainable measures enacted by Spain. Manuel Butler, director of the Spanish Tourist Office (UK) says: “Sustainability lies at the heart of our tourism strategy and is a vital part of our government agenda. We have ambitious targets in place to support and deliver on the 2030 Sustainable Development Agenda and significant funds have been invested to ensure we deliver on these goals which include the distribution of funds to our regions to help fund energy efficiency and circular economy projects. It’s important for us to understand the attitudes and perceptions of the UK public to help inform our strategy. Whilst we are pleased that 66% of respondents think it’s easy to have a sustainable holiday in Spain, we need to work harder to communicate our initiatives.” For tips and recommendations for where to go for a sustainable holiday in Spain, see: Green Traveller's Guide to Green Spain Green Traveller's Guide to Catalonia Green Traveller's Guide to Las Alpujarras Green Traveller's video of summer in Catalonia: *The survey was carried out by Opinium on behalf of the Spanish Tourist Office in November 2022 and was completed by a sample of 1800 UK adults who have been to Spain in the last 5 years

The Green Traveller Digest Welcome to my latest round up of news, features and comments on green travel. This newsletter is written by me, Richard Hammond, the founder of Green Traveller. Please do forward this newsletter to anyone you think might be interested in receiving it or ask them to subscribe via the link on the button below: Last night at St Pancras International Railway Station, London, I attended the launch of Lonely Planet's Guide to Train Travel in Europe, which shows how the vast and complex European rail network can be broken down into achievable, bite-sized trips. Five of the best scenic journeys selected from the book are: Locarno, Switzerland to Domodossola, Italy Oslo to Bergen, Norway The Black Forest Railway, Germany North Wales, Llandudno to Porthmadog loop Paris to Latour de Carol, France One of the book's authors Tom Hall (who has long been an advocate of rail travel), said: "Taking the train is the perfect option for the modern traveller seeking adventure, convenience, and a greener alternative to flying". Date for your diary: World Wildlife Day is this Thursday, 3 March #WorldWildlifeDay Great British Wildlife and Environment Map A new map of Britain highlights the island's wildlife species, habitats, and the efforts being made to protect them. It features over 1,500 wildlife hotspots, conservation projects, eco events and 'gloriously green' days out, with summaries of key environmental issues and steps you can take to help address them. Publisher Marvellous Maps describe it as "the grassroots guide to having a whale of a time around wild Britain". Available in two versions, it costs £14.99 for a double-sided fold-out version, or £19.99 for a double-sided wall map. Going Green in Scotland Wilderness Scotland has published a guide to canoeing the Great Glen Way, and a handy video about how to pack a canoe for an expedition (below). The award-winning operator, which has long championed sustainable tourism, is also the first tour operator in Europe to have its carbon reduction plans validated by the Science Based Targets initiative (SBTi) – a framework designed to recognise only those businesses that have set science-based net-zero targets consistent with limiting global temperature rise to 1.5C. Electric campervan in the Scottish Borders In the Scottish Borders, Ampervans has launched an electric campervan. Available for hire from its base in Duns (or from Berwick-upon-Tweed railway station), the vehicle is based on a Vauxhall Vivaro-e, a top-end electric van with around 120 miles of range from its 75kWh battery. The campervan comes with a Type 2 charger for charging at 7kW public stations, an RFID card, and a windscreen cover for sleeping in privacy. Citizen Science in the Hebrides Wildlife Safe (WiSE) accredited Hebridean Adventures has launched a citizen science fundraising cruise in conjunction with the National Trust for Scotland this May. The 5-night guided trip starts and ends in Inverness and will visit some of the Western Highlands most scenic and little known National Trust properties, including the island of Canna in the Small Isles, and Mingulay, Berneray and Pabbay, at the very southern tip of the Outer Hebrides. As a charity partner of the Hebridean Whale and Dolphin Trust (HWDT), guests will have the chance to take part in the gathering of sightings data in its dedicated app Whale Track, and to capture ID photos as part of their citizen science effort. 15% of income from the trip will be donated to the National Trust for Scotland. The trip runs from 9–14 May and costs £1,495 per person. Bed and Bike on The Elbe, Germany The Elbe Cycle Route is one of the most popular cycle trails in Germany. Starting in the mountains of the Czech Republic and ending in Cuxhaven, on Germany's North Sea coast, the 1220km-long route (840km of which are within Germany) is mostly flat and passes Dresden, Meissen, Wittenberge and Hamburg along the way. If you're keen to tackle it, there's a detour to the Destinature village, just 80km from Hamburg, which is a showcase for sustainable living and includes repair and charging facilities, and a washing machine and dryer for sportswear. Cycling in The Netherlands Dutch teenagers cycle, on average, an astonishing 2,000 kilometres a year. "They also rank among the healthiest and happiest — with the lowest rates of obesity and antidepressant usage — on Earth. This isn't coincidence, but an outcome of a system that prioritises humans over cars,", according to Chris Bruntlett of the Dutch Cycling Embassy. Listen to his fascinating Places for Good podcast about lessons learnt from cycling in The Netherlands: Prioritising the human experience Work begins on Weston to Clevedon cycle route Construction is underway to build missing sections of the keenly awaited cycle route between Clevedon and Weston-super-Mare in Somerset. The £3.1m Pier to Pier Way is due to open this summer and will form part of Route 33 of the National Cycle Network between Bristol and Seaton. Citizen Science on Cornwall's Helford River The Budock Vean country house estate, on Cornwall’s Helford River, is running a Spring Wildlife Break from 1–6 May, led by local experts. Participants will explore the surrounding Helford section of Cornwall's Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty – and its diverse flora and fauna – by foot, boat and kayak. Highlights include the Cornwall Beaver Project, and the chance to make your own bird seed and flower bombs. Carbon scoring holidays British based specialist tour operator Far & Wild Travel now offers customers a tool that measures the carbon score for its tailor-made itineraries in Africa. Once a selection is made, customers are then able to change flights, hotels, duration, or activities to reduce their emissions. The fifth season in Estonia The annual floods in Soomaa National Park in Estonia have given rise to a phenomenon known as the 'fifth season', sometime between winter and spring when swelling rivers enable wetlands and lower forests to become navigable by canoe. The long history of building dugout canoes is captured in this lovely video (see below). If you're interested in exploring Sooma during the fifth season or at any other time of the year, the team from Viis aastaaega OÜ, operating under the brand Soomaa.com, have been organising tours in Soomaa National Park since 1994, organising canoeing, bog shoeing, kick-sledding, snow-trekking, and a 3-day self-guided pedal and paddle trips that combine cycling from Pärnu town to Soomaa National Park with a canoeing trip in the beautiful Soomaa wilderness. Plastic -Free Pejo 3000 The ski area of Pejo 3000 – home to 12 miles of pistes in Val di Sole in the Italian Dolomites – has gone plastic free. Plastic bottles, cutlery and straws can no longer be used in any of the area's mountain huts. Single-use sachets, which previously contributed thousands of plastic wrappers each season, have also been banned. The resort also has three small hydroelectric plants which power the valley and beyond with renewable energy. A ski resort of the future Travel writer Phoebe Smith writes in the Guardian about her train trip to Serre Chevalier near Briançon. The resort, in the French Alps, "is defying the sceptics with its solar, wind and hydro-powered shift towards building the ski resort of the future". This Week Good news for... Southend-on-Sea, which the BBC reports was officially recognised this week as the 52nd city in England (and the second in Essex, alongside Chelmsford). Prince Charles visited Southend yesterday to mark the occasion of the new status of the city, which is also soon to see the launch of a new electric train that will take visitors from the shoreline to the end of Southend Pier – the longest pleasure pier in the world. Southend is twinned with the Polish resort city of Sopot. Bad news for... The world's efforts to tackle climate change: The Guardian reports that the IPCC has issued its "bleakest warning yet" on the impacts of climate breakdown: "human actions are causing dangerous disruption, and window to secure a liveable future is closing." My Tip of the Week Booking trains in Europe: Train tickets are often released 2-3 months ahead of travel. If you want to snap up the cheapest tickets when they become available, Thetrainline.com and RailEurope.com both offer free email alert services, letting you know as soon as bookings open for your chosen route. And finally: For tips on making the most of visiting Wales, do see Green Traveller's Guides to the country's five Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty (Anglesey, Clwydian Range and Dee Valley, Gower, Llŷn and Wye Valley) and its three National Parks (Brecon Beacons, Pembrokeshire Coast and Snowdonia). The guides provide tips on characterful, green places to stay, where to find local food and drink, and a range of attractions, low impact activities and great days out in these beautiful, specially protected areas: Green Traveller's Guide to the Protected Areas of Wales

Sarah Baxter sees bears, lynx and wolves and an array of other wildlife as she crosses West Macedonia Photos from top left: wolf, bear, lynx and wolf. Photos: Richard Hammond Greece: a land of 227 islands, innumerable beaches, ouzo and tzatziki, ancient ruins. Oh, and around 700 bears. No one tell you about the bears? Well then, if you go down to the Greek woods today, you’re sure of a big surprise… Particularly the woods of western Macedonia, one of the country’s least-trodden regions but one of its most biodiverse. “People don’t know about mountainous Greece,” field biologist Lampros Krampokoukis told me as we walked in the foothills of the Vitsi range. “But wildlife is abundant here – birds, reptiles, wolves, bears.” Lampros works for Arcturos, a non-profit organisation, based just outside the charming hillside village of Nymfaio, that is dedicated to rescuing captive animals, protecting habitats and educating the public. “My parents took me to see a dancing bear when I was six and I burst into tears,” Lampros told me. “It sowed the seeds of wanting to work in conservation.” The Arcturos bear sanctuary is home to around 20 bears that have been confiscated from zoos and private collections, including Barbara, the sanctuary’s last dancing bear – thankfully this barbaric practice is now illegal in most countries. Too accustomed to humans, these animals cannot be released into the wild but at least get to live out their days in large, natural enclosures. It’s brilliant for the bears, and a joy for visitors like me – with Lampros, I walked the perimeter, gaining glimpses of these powerful creatures doing what they do: rubbing against trees, sniffing out food, exchanging bone-trembling roars. Close by, Arcturos also runs a sanctuary for lynx and wolves, where I was similarly lucky to see some of the rescued residents. In one enclosure a lone grey wolf emerged from a thicket and sniffed the air before turning in our direction, holding us briefly in its unnerving stare. In the next-door pen, a lynx sat statuesque, bold as brass, right by the fence; a tortoise crawled around her huge paws but she didn’t bat a whisker. Lynx are a ghost species in Greece – they’ve been extinct here for 80 years. But there’s hope. “There’s a small population in Albania and North Macedonia, close to the borders, so I am optimistic they will reappear in Greece,” Lampros explained. “The most important thing now is educating people so that when they do return the conditions are right.” It was exciting to see these charismatic species so close, and to know that ill-treated animals are being looked after – a batch of bears from a substandard zoo in Italy was due to arrive shortly after my visit. But I was also keen to know more about the wild ones. So the next day, as Nikos helped me into the saddle of one of his tough Pindos horses, I asked if he’d ever seen a bear while out riding. “Three times,” he replied. It was a very long short, but I kept my fingers crossed. Nikos is a maths teacher by trade but, with his father Dimitris, also runs Artemis Tours, leading trips in the countryside around Sklithro, near the wolf and lynx sanctuary, on foot, bike and horseback. We hacked out from his basecamp cabin in blazing sunshine, the air thick with the sweet scent of tilia trees and freckled with butterflies. We splashed across streams, wound through village streets and galloped across fields. We found healing balsamo, wild mint (which we later brewed up for tea) and a bounty of fruits: cherries, apricots and purple damsons, delicious straight from the trees. We also found loganberries which, apparently, bears love – and a fresh pile of scat nearby proved one hungry ursine had recently been this way. Not a bear sighting, perhaps, but a thrill nonetheless. I couldn’t forget the wild nature of the region even after swapping horse for car to make the onward journey to Prespa National Park, in Greece’s far north-west. It seemed every corner of the winding road through the forest-cloaked mountains was marked by warning signs for bears, deer or wild boar. I didn’t see any of those creatures en route but was soon hanging out with some of Prespa’s other residents. Around 270 bird species have been recorded in the park, and I joined local ranger Amalia for a spot of birdwatching atop Krina Hill. This mound on the western shore of Little Prespa Lake sits above a patch of bird-busy wet meadows and reed islands. Squacco herons mooched among the lily pads, cormorants dried their wings in the sun and Dalmatian pelicans floated like mini sailboats. I saw a man sorting fat Prespa beans – a local speciality – in a shack at the bottom of the hill and a couple of people strolling over the floating footbridge to the islet of Agios Ahilios, but otherwise all was still; just the occasional beat of feathers. I could have stayed there all evening. Eventually I tore myself away, but was keen to get back to the water the next morning, this time to the park’s larger Great Prepsa Lake. I arrived early at Syntrofia Tavern in Psarades, though of course owner Germanos had already been up, out on the water and back, and was now sitting on the dock, disentangling tiny tsironi fish from a fine net with his large, agile hands. Only when he was done, and the dock washed down, did he nod my way. We hopped in his boat and puttered out into Great Prespa Lake, a wide expanse of water shared with North Macedonia and Albania. Germanos navigated along the craggy cliffs, past pelicans and herons, eventually stopping at a little jetty. He motioned for me to jump off – then left. Alone on the pebble beach, there was only one thing for it: to climb the steps that zig-zagged up the cliff-face ahead. At the top, tucked into the rock, lay a tiny, frescoed chapel: the hermitage of Panagia Eleoussa. Built in the 15th-century, Christian monks once hid from the Ottomans here. And what a spot to choose. Looking out, I could see the lapping blue water and the distant summits – a whole world framed by the cave’s wide maw. But inside it felt secret, a brief sanctuary from the modern world. And we all need a sanctuary sometimes, whether we’re human, bird or bear. == With thanks to Joysters for facilitating our visit in the summer of 2022. For more information about travelling in this part of Northern Greece, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Macedonia and Thessaloniki

James Stewart treks through Greece's Pindos mountains – a walker's paradise in little-known Zagori – home to the dramatic Vikos Gorge and the elusive chamois goat Costas Zissis pauses on the trail and gazes across the valley below. “Isn’t this beautiful?” he says, more to himself than to me. We’re in the Pindos mountains of mainland Greece. Ahead stretches a vast bowl of forest, its spongey green mass broken only by isolated villages. Above is the mountain pass that will lead us to Dragon Lake. “There’s so much nature here; so much to discover,” Costas adds. “Sometimes I wonder why more people don’t come.” No kidding. For two hours Costas, a local photographer who has spent decades capturing the moods of the region, has led me up from Mikro Papigo, a lovely hamlet the colour of old ivory. At first we ascend through sun-dappled hazelnut woods, pausing occasionally to drink mountain spring water. Then the trees thin and we emerge beneath a ridge of rippling cliffs like a Mount Rushmore they forgot to carve – the Astraka Towers, one end of the Vikos Gorge. It glows pink at sunset, Costas tells me. He’s here hoping to see his first chamois. Me? I’m happy just to be here. The last hour has been all empty trails and the springy scent of pine and juniper. It’s only now we’ve stopped to admire the view that I realise what’s lacking. Traffic noise. People. Notwithstanding a shepherd who lolled beneath a tree among his flock, its bells adding a soft gamelan to the birdsong, we haven’t seen a soul. Silence and space are such precious commodities. I can’t recall when I last felt such peace. But Costas is right: where is everybody? If this were Italy or southern France, this path would be full of happy hikers. The question pops once more into my head: is anywhere in Greece more overlooked than Zagori? In a country with ancient ruins and more islands than you can count, people forget about this remote mountainous corner near the Albanian border as a holiday option. No one I talked to before my visit had heard of the place. Isolated from the 20th century by inaccessibility, then emptied after the Greek civil war in the 1950s, its traditional villages are treasured getaways for mainland Greeks. Few have any appetite for walking, however. Costas says: “We Greeks eat and we swim. But walking? Too much effort.” That seems a shame since the wild landscapes of the Zagori are at their best when discovered as they have been for centuries – on foot. Because tarmac roads didn’t appear until the 1950s, the region is a maze of shepherds’ trails, footpaths and bridleways. Signposting can be sketchy in places – pick up Anavasi’s Pindus: Zagori 1:50,000 map if you plan to do anything more than short strolls – and few walks are circuits, so you’ll have to organise pick-ups through your hotel; no great hardship when you can wait over a late lunch. But you won’t run out of options during a stay. Nor will you run short of scenery, most of it protected within the Vikos-Aoös national park. Crete’s Samaria Gorge wins all the plaudits for Grecian walking but nothing prepares you for the Vikos Gorge. The world’s deepest canyon measured depth by width slices through the centre of Zagori. It takes six hours at brisk pace to track its deepest section between Monodendri and Vikos; longer if you allow time to explore a limestone riverbed sculpted into strange whorls by winter floods. Yet the joy of Zagori is that it provides as many easy strolls as hard dayhikes (or longer). One of the shortest walks of my stay became one of my favourites. From a car park near Vikos village, I dipped down into the Vikos Gorge. Broad and thickly fuzzed with green, the canyon looked more lost world than anywhere in Greece. Only 30 minutes after setting out, I was discovering inky murals in a chapel and drinking cool, slightly sweet water from a spring beside the Voidomatis river. On a walk around Kipi I crossed canyons on humpbacked bridges that dated from Ottoman occupation. If I’d had longer in the Pindos mountains, which jut north of the gorge, I could have summited Gamila mountain to sit with nothing but 2,497m of fresh air beneath my feet. Factor in a cool mountain climate as the seaside sizzles and you have the late-summer walking destination par excellence. Back en route to Dragon Lake, Costas and I crest the mountain pass and cross a broad alpine meadow cupped within mountains. Shaded by an infinity of wildflowers, it’s too beautiful to rush. As we dawdle, Costas points out species: forget-me-nots and primula violets; the white flower spike of asphodel, a rare lily which, in Greek mythology, grew on the Elysian Fields; a herb used to brew Zagoria tea. Four hours after we set out, we’re sitting high up on a snowdrift beside Dragon Lake. Snow, in Greece, in June: who saw that coming? Actually, the surprise was yet to come. To make up for lost time we pick up the pace on the return. Suddenly Costas stops. Two chamois in the meadow ahead are watching us. They sniff, then bound away up steep slopes as if on springs. It turns out that the goat-antelopes were hunted almost to extinction in Zagori in the mid 20th century. Now, given the lack of people, they have begun to return to the alpine meadows. Being overlooked has its advantages. Words by James Stewart

Sarah Baxter goes truffle-hunting and enjoys the diversity of delicious local food in West Macedonia The breakfast table was fit to burst. Thick slices of flakey cheese tiropita (pie) and golden omelettes jostled with fat red tomatoes and salty olives; there was unctuous yoghurt flanked by cherries and peaches, glasses of fresh-squeezed orange juice and thick pancakes begging to be slathered in homemade jams. “I do something different every day,” Argyro said, attempting to sneak a plate of frosted buns into the mix. My eyes bulged, both at the growing spread and the view outside the tall casement windows: of the hillside village of Nymfaio and the green mountains beyond, just waking up to a beautiful blue-sky day. I’d come to this region of western Macedonia in part to taste its diverse flavours. And Argyro’s Guesthouse was providing a delicious start. This characterful retreat sits at the top of Nymfaio, a fairytale village of stone mansions and cobbled alleys tumbling down the beech-flanked slopes of the Vitsi range. There’s good foraging to be done up here in the hills – “All the women from the village know how to live from the forest, how to find herbs, mushrooms, fruits, snails,” Argyro’s husband Ioannis told me. But, after breakfast, I was heading down into the valley to find further sustenance. This land was once a prehistoric lakebed, which has created unique, mineral-rich soil, good for growing everything from excellent potatoes to large, crimson Florina peppers, so revered for their sweet, tender flavour that they have protected origin status – I tasted some at Naoumidis Farm, near Lake Vegoritida, where they grill, pickle and smoke them into tasty spreads and sauces. However, it was another fruit I was most looking forward to sampling. This region is the home of Amyndeon, the smallest, coldest, driest appellation in Greece, which produces some of the country’s most exciting wines. “The area is ideal for wine-growing,” export manager Konstantinos Arvanitakis told me as he showed me around the smart Alpha Estate. We toured the handsome blush-pink winery’s cool cellars and start-of-the-art lab, where Alpha’s viticulturalists tweak the perfect blends. Then we headed out into the neat ranks of largely Greek grapes, including a plot of xinomavro that’s over 100 years old and still producing – “it makes a concentrated, elegant fine dining wine,” Konstantinos told me, “an explosion of taste.” Indeed, I was soon able to discover that for myself: Alpha offers free tastings. “Greek wine doesn’t have the best reputation, but it’s improving,” Konstantinos explained. “We want people to come and taste Greek grape varieties – it’s not about selling our own, it’s about exposing people to higher-quality Greek wines. The main thing is the wine needs to show its character, to show where it was made.” He poured me a dizzying array of glasses, from the venerable xinomavro reserve to a citrusy assyrtiko; each one spoke of the soil and the altitude and the weather and the passion of this part of Greece. Then he took me to Kontosoros, a high-class restaurant hiding out in the tiny village of Xino Nero, also focused on showcasing the calibre of local flavours. Using ingredients from the backyard, and nearby producers, chef Iliana conjured delicious dishes of grilled cheese, baked vegetables, traditional stews and grilled fish, which we paired with Alpha’s well-balanced malagouzia – lively, mellow, floral, it was like summer in a glass. Now, thanks to Konstantinos, I was developing a taste for this land, so I thought I’d continue that in Prespa National Park. This area in the far north-west corner of Greece, where the country rubs up against Albania and Macedonia, is renowned for its giant beans, nurtured by the microclimate of its two mountain-flanked lakes. The fields on the east bank of Little Prespa Lake look like a legume encampment, striped with endless teepees of bean plants. However, I had a different delicacy in mind. I met Nikos Tsilis and his irrepressible chocolate labrador Avra under a stand of ancient juniper trees near the village of Psarades. We – or rather, Avra with her keen nose and desire to please – were hunting for black truffles, the precious fruiting fungi so prized by foodies. Nikos is self-taught but has gained a reputation as something of an expert; he’s trained his tastebuds to tell different varieties apart and has even unearthed truffles new to science. “It started as a hobby but many restaurants call me now,” Nikos explained. “I can sell them for €100-600 per kilo. The other day I found a black truffle that was 400g.” With so much money at stake, I figured truffle-hunting must be very hard indeed. But within two minutes Avra had sniffed out a handful of the strange, pungent lumps; within half an hour we had a large pile. “They’re good for the bones,” Nikos told me, “and some say they’re an aphrodisiac but I don’t believe it.” He gave me a truffle to takeaway, which was kind, but did make my luggage reek like the humusy depths of the earth. He suggested I hand it over to his friend, Kiriakos, who runs a taverna in the lakeside village of Mikrolimni and who would happily grate it over my dinner. But first, I had to earn my feed. Arriving at the taverna in the early evening, I found two kayaks pulled up on the little sandy beach below – Kiriakos doesn’t rent them out as such, but visitors are free to borrow them in exchange for collecting any rubbish they find in the lake. As the sun lowered, Kiriakos paddled out with me, along the reeds, past the herons and swooping swallows, into the gilded ripples, towards the interweaving ridges of the mountains beyond. He told me legends of the lake – how it was created, so they say, by the ill-fated love of a prince and a water nymph; how the lost village of Lyca lies below the surface like a lakebed Atlantis. It was a perfect aperitif, and I was hungry by the time we clambered out of the boats and settled on the taverna’s stilted deck for cold sunset beers and an array of unfussy but sensational dishes: grilled Florina peppers, fried potatoes, fat Prespa beans, tiny freshwater fish… Food showing its local character, enhanced by a seasoning of balmy lake air. Macedonia in a simple, magical meal. == Watch our video of Sarah's trip to West Macedonia and Thessaloniki: == With thanks to Joysters for facilitating our visit in the summer of 2022. For more information about travelling in this fascinating part of Northern Greece, see our Green Traveller's Guide to West Macedonia and Thessaloniki

As we launch our Green Traveller's Guide to West Macedonia and Thessaloniki, Sarah Baxter selects a range of characterful places to stay in this beautiful part of northern Greece. Thessaloniki is the hub for the region and is a great place to spend a few days before and after exploring the rest of West Macedonia. Prespa Resort & Spa, Platy, Prespa National Park For exploring Prespa National Park, this small-scale resort is in the perfect spot. Located in the little village of Platy, just off the main road to the east of Lesser Prespa Lake, it’s an easy drive to everywhere. That location also means all the rooms have good lake-and-mountain views from their west-facing balconies and patios – great for watching sunset. The resort offers both studios and apartments. The rustic studios are simply but neatly furnished, all with air-con, fireplaces and small kitchenettes for simple self-catering; larger apartments, with separate bedrooms and bigger kitchens, offer families more space. On site there’s a small gym and a good-size outdoor pool, set within a neat little garden, where you can grab a drink from the shady snack bar. Note, fellow guests might include a family of storks, which regularly nest on the telegraph pole within the grounds. presparesort.gr City Hotel, Thessaloniki Lively, youthful and rich in history, Thessaloniki is the country’s second-biggest city and the gateway to West Macedonia. It’s well worth a day or two of your time. And the City Hotel is good base for exploring, sitting close to Thessaloniki’s main Aristotelous Square and buzzing Tsimiski Street, and a stone’s throw from the old port and the sea. The hotel’s design vibe is ‘urban nature’: modern and fresh, with green and white tones and botanical prints. There’s a strong eco-philosophy too – the hotel holds a Green Key award for its commitment to sustainable operation and environmental responsibility. There are 125 rooms, all bright, comfortable, and well-fitted; inner rooms offer good value, but top pick are the city-view rooms, which have balconies. Downstairs in the Green Bar, a generous buffet breakfast is served, spanning international favourites, traditional Greek cheese pies and fresh-squeezed juices, all made from local-sourced ingredients. cityhotel.gr Argyro Guesthouse, Nymfaio, Florina Argyro and her husband Ioannis (and their two friendly dogs) know how to make you feel welcome. Their traditional stone-built guesthouse in Nymfaio – one of the ten most picturesque villages of Europe, according to UNESCO – sits at the top of the village, with spectacular views over the rooftops to the Vitsi mountains beyond. It’s more like a home rather than a hotel – like staying with a favourite aunt: the handful of guest rooms are filled with lovely antique furnishings, from dark-wood bedsteads to embroidered chair covers. Breakfast is a showstopper. Argyro prides herself on offering something different every day, so alongside the fresh-squeezed orange juice, fruit platter, Greek salad, creamy yoghurt, and homemade jams there might be thick pancakes, iced buns or fat slices of flakey cheese and spinach pie. All served with warmth and fantastic views. argyro.gr La Moara, Nymfaio, Florina Alongside the Argyro, Argyro and Ioannis also run La Moara, a traditional neoclassical Nymfaio stone mansion a little further down the hill that was one of the first guesthouses to open as tourists began to rediscover this gorgeous mountain village. Set in a garden flanked by spruce trees, La Moara has eight spacious, stylish rooms – including two pleasingly tucked into the attic – that meld the old character of the house with more contemporary style: think wood floors, embroidered blankets and lace valances meeting funky sofas and modern colour pops of mustard, blush pink and stone blue. There’s also a restaurant (where excellent breakfasts and wines from the well-stocked cellar are served), two lounges, a welcoming reception area with an open fire – perfect for the chilly winter months – and a chill-out room with a pool table, board games and library of books. lamoara.gr Agios Ahilios Guest House, Agios Ahilios, Prespa National Park Location, location, location – that’s what really sells this peaceful, family-run inn on the edge of little Agios Achillios Island. The car-free islet itself sits in Lesser Prespa Lake, connected to the mainland by a floating pedestrian causeway, built around 2001 – until then, the only access to the island was by boat. Indeed, a boat is still used to provide free luggage transfers for those staying at the guesthouse, to save the need to heft bags across. Rooms here, either doubles or triples, are simple but tidy, with private bathrooms and balconies overlooking the lake, wetlands and hills beyond. There’s a communal lounge downstairs and a homemade buffet breakfast included. Tuck in before setting off on the 5km hike around the island, which passes the impressive ruins of the tenth-century basilica. agiosahilios-hotel.gr Guesthouse Agonari, Sklithro, Florina This cosy stone guesthouse in Sklithro looks out to the village and the surrounding lush mountains. There are ten rooms, with exposed stone walls, wooden floors, iron bedsteads, fireplaces and antique furnishings. Taverna Thomas, the owner’s restaurant, is excellent too. agonari.gr/en/guesthouse-agonari Panorama Hotel, Agios Germanos, Prespa National Park The aptly named Panorama sits at 1,200m above sea level, at the highest point in the village of Agios Germanos. The old building has been sensitively renovated, and characterful rooms feature exposed stone walls, wooden ceilings, and terraces with views to the lake. panoramaprespes.gr Agios Germanos Hotel, Agios Germanos, Prespa National Park This traditional ten-room inn sits in the centre of Agios Germanos, opposite the old Byzantine church. Its low stone buildings are fine examples of the typical local architecture, and the rooms are simple but characterful. Breakfast features homemade pies, marmalade and local honey, eggs and cheese. prespa.com.gr Guesthouse Ariadni, Laimos, Prespa National Park A welcoming guesthouse, set in another fine old Prespa building. Rooms, some with balconies, are comfortable, with private bathrooms. There’s also a communal garden and large terrace, and a quality breakfast. guesthouse-ariadni.greecemacedoniahotels.net Hotel Philippos, Psarades, Prespa National Park Philippos sits in the quiet fishing village of Psarades, in the main square, near the shores of Great Prespa Lake. There are four rooms spread across the traditional building, which dates back to 1890. There’s also a communal kitchen where you can make your own meals. hotel-philippos.gr Kivotos Epavlis, Agios Germanos, Prespa National Park These rustic serviced apartments (sleeping six) make a good base for longer stays. The thick-walled ground floors – cool in summer, warm in winter – have fully-equipped kitchens, dining rooms and lounge; upstairs, light floods into the tasteful bedrooms, some of which have four-posters. kivotosepavlis.com Casa di Cardellino, Psarades, Prespa National Park Staying at this handsome stone villa, close to Great Prespa Lake, gives a taster of bygone Greek village life. The decor is a modern-traditional mix, with hardwood floors and woodburners in every room but all mod-cons too. Sleeps up to eight, across two bedrooms and sofa beds. facebook.com/CasadiCardellino == The Google map below shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to West Macedonia and Thessaloniki Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Estonia, here's our pick of outdoor adventures in Estonia, among the clean air of its forest-covered landscape, its 2,22 islands and the clear waters of its numerous lakes. There’s an age-old tradition of canoeing among the rivers, marshes and bogs, but equally there are lots of nature hikes, bike rides and opportunities for horse-riding where you can venture deep into the landscape. Winter too provides opportunities for exploring the great outdoors through alternative winter activities, such as kick-sledding and snowshoeing. Whether you go in high summer or in the off-season, prepare to discover the unexpected in this beautiful country. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Estonia: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Cycle around Kihnu island Explore the beautiful island of Kihnu by bike with guide, Mare Mätas, a local history teacher who has run the Kihnu Cultural Space foundation for over a decade. Cycling along the small island roads, you’ll visit the Kihnu Museum, church, lighthouse and Metsamaa farm and be given a unique insight into island life from someone who knows it as well as anyone. kihnumare.ee Try a smoke sauna Soak up the real deal in a traditional smoke sauna of Old Võromaa, which has been honoured by UNESCO as one of the ‘intangible cultural heritages’ of the world. A typical session lasts three hours and – along with the usual rich aroma of burning wood – includes a ‘whispered note of meat’ smoked in the sauna, birch boughs and sauna honey, then cool off with a dip in the adjacent pond. mooska.eu Go canoeing in the fifth season Every year, for a few weeks in early spring, the water from the melting snow inundates the floodplain meadows (and even forests) of Soomaa National Park to such an extent that is known as the ‘fifth season’. One of the best ways to get around during this time is by canoe, and you can join guided canoe trips in the region with experienced local guides – either day trips or stay overnight in a charming local guesthouse. soomaa.com Building a dugout canoe Learn how to build an expanded dugout boat – the historical means of transport for locals during the fifth season floods. The three-hour programme takes place at Saarisoo Farm in the heart of the Soomaa under the guidance of Aivar Ruukel, one of the foremost practioners in Estonia’s burgeoning ecotourism scene. After the tutorial, you’ll go on an unforgettable ride in a dugout canoe along the Navesti River. soomaa.com Hike in Lahemaa National Park Lace up your boots and set off into the beautiful Lahemma National Park in the north of Estonia whose woodland, wetland and coastal areas are protected as a bird and wilderness area. Choose between several study trails, such as a 4.7km Oandu old-growth forest nature trail, a 4.2km Käsmu nature and culture historical trail, and a 5.6km Sagadi-Oandu forest fairy tales trail. loodusegakoos.ee Go on a cycle safari Explore Toosikannu Wildlife Park (Estonia’s biggest deer and wildlife park) from the comfort of a saddle on a 2-hour bike ride along a 10-13km safari tour, mostly on gravel roads. Keep an eye out for red deer, moose roe deer, foxes and hare. toosikannu.ee Try kicksledding In winter (until the end of February), you can go kicksledding in an area of Matsalu National Park in western Estonia, including a 6-8km circle around the Haeska islets, if the ice conditions allow. You can also ride on an ice carousel and learn about ice fishing with traps. tuulingu.ee Go canoeing in the Aidu Fjords or the River Purtse Canoe the Aidu Fjords (from April to October) or along the River Purtse (March to April) with experts from the Kiviõli Adventure Centre in the northeast of Estonia. There’s also a range of other outdoor adventure activities, including kayaking and cycling. everesthostel.ee Travel to a bog restaurant by canoe Travel by canoe to a hidden restaurant that can only be reached along the Esna River. Hindreku Farm organises these novel trips throughout the year from its base off the Tallinn-Tartu road. You’ll be treated to a three-course lunch (including a salmon cooked by the fire, a duck pot, and a warm fruit salad) and later the evening there will be a tasting of eight Estonia wines. It also organises other adventure trips, such as snowshoeing, hikes in the countryside to appreciate the local nature, and longer canoe trips further along the river. hindrekutalu.ee Tartu SmartEnCity Art Tour Witness the progressive era of a nation through the rebirth of buildings in the capital Tallinn on this Tartu tour that focuses on the retrofitting of former panel houses in ‘smarkovka’ A energy class houses. Choose to go either by electric bike or on foot – just don’t miss the art murals in the city centre. visitestonia.com/en/tartu-smartencity-art-tour Take a dip in the Rummu quarry The site of a former prison, the Rummu quarry is now an azure lagoon with an onsite cafe that – combined with the nearby ash forest – is a great day out. You can explore the water park on a stand up paddleboard, go on a four-person pedal boat, or go for a swim in the crystal clear water, while on land you can go on a guided tour of the Murru prison and surrounding area. rummu.ee Sail on the Hoppet Join a fascinating historical voyage on the Hoppet, the only remaining fore-and-aft schooner of the 1920s. The ship (which means Hope in Swedish) was originally built as a merchant ship between 1925 and 1926, and has been restored to run charter trips to the gulf and to the islands of Abrruka where you can combine the voyage with bike tours and campfire evenings. purjelaevad.ee Go horse-riding on Muhu Discover the nature of the lovely island of Muhu on horseback. Rides last from just a couple of hours to 4–6 hour day trips. At the base at Tihuse Farm, there’s a riding academy for children and for those who prefer to keep their feet on the ground, there’s an organised hike along an ancient cultural trail – Muhu has over 60 pre-Christian rite sites. tihuse.ee Visit the village of Koguva Understand what life was like as a peasant at this fascinating village museum on the west coast of Muhu that’s home to well-preserved farm buildings (and was the birthplace of the Estonia writer Juhan Smuul). Exhibitors dress up in traditional folk costumes and there’s an exhibition of national textiles and beautiful embroidered blankets. muhumuuseum.ee Go horse-riding in southeast Estonia Saddle up on white blue-eyed Estonian Native Horses and travel from Mustakurmu village in Põlva County to the sacred Taevaskoda outcrops (on the trail of the cult Estonia film The Last Relic), to the Mõtsküla forest to visit Swedish war graves, or the incredible Akste ant kingdom – the site of over 1,500 ant nests that’s home to over 3 billion ants. For the trip to Taevaskoda, you can opt to camp out overnight in one of the picturesque State Forest Management Centre wilderness camps. hobumatkad.ee For nearby characterful places to stay, local food and drink, as well as places of interest, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Estonia

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Estonia, here's our guide to how to travel around Estonia by train, bus, bike and using public transport. Travelling around Estonia by train There are trains from Tallinn’s Balti Jaam railway station to larger towns, such as Tartu, Viljandi, Rakvere and Narva. Travelling around Estonia by bus There are multiple connections by bus across the country, including across to some of the islands (where the bus is taken across to the island on a ferry). You can buy tickets at bus stations or online at tpilet.ee. Travelling around Estonia by ferry The major islands can all be reached by ferry, including Saaremaa, Hiiumaa, Vormsi, Kihnu, Ruhnu and Aegna, as well as custom trips by boat to some of the smaller islands. For schedules, see: veeteed.com, tuuleliinid.ee, praamid.ee and liinilaevad.ee. Travelling around Estonia by bike Cycling is popular in Estonia and there are several operators that run bike tours and can rent out bikes. Taking bikes on trains: From April to October, you have to buy a bike ticket if you want to take the bike on a train, but this has to be paid to the conductor once you’re on the train and can’t be bought in advance. Taking bikes on buses: If there’s space, you can put your bike in the luggage compartment of long-haul buses. Lux Express (https://luxexpress.eu) offers a free bike ticket – a maximum of five bikes can be booked at a time and must be reserved online in advance. Travelling around Estonian cities on public transport There’s an electronic contactless public transport card (Ühiskaart) that you can buy and add credits to enable you to travel by public transport throughout Estonia. In Tallinn, you can also use bank cards, such as Visa, Mastercard, and Maestro with contactless interfaces for public transport in the city. == For characterful accommodation, places to eat local food and drink, local places of interest and low impact activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Estonia

On the short walk down to the off-grid boathouse, I count over a dozen marbled white butterflies criss-crossing the path, fluttering in the gentle summer breeze. There are other butterflies too: Essex skippers, meadow browns, and ringlets. At one point, by the settling pond of an enormous reed water purification system, I spot a clump of ragworts with orange and black striped cinnabar moth caterpillars clinging to their stems. There are bees buzzing all around in the warm summer sun, birds chirping – the place has the feel of a nature reserve. As I walk round the corner of an ancient oak and ash forest, I come to the exquisite hexagonal boathouse set in splendid isolation in front of a pontoon leading down to a long lake that stretches as far as the eye can see. It’s a wild swimmer’s dream. It's high summer and I’ve come to Sheepdrove Farm, a 2,000-acre (810-ha) organic farm in the North Wessex Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. The boathouse is a basic, unfussy hideaway for two, with a double room, a small kitchen, shower, plenty of natural light and large bifold doors through which you can gaze out over the lake. It is heated by an air source heat pump; all the energy it draws on is generated onsite through two wind turbines and solar panels (there are 900 across the farm), and all wastewater is treated through the reedbed water filtration system. The eco credentials of the boathouse are impressive, but it’s the scale and diversity of environmentally sustainable projects throughout the farm that creates the feeling you’re staying somewhere special. There’s an eco conference centre, a natural burial wood, a wedding venue and a former farm building that sleeps up to 18. While I was there, the staff were getting busy for a photo shoot to launch a new electric car. For over 25 years, Sheepdrove has been at the forefront of sustainable, regenerative and organic farming across its green pastures, wildflower meadows, ancient woodland and fields of heritage grains on chalk downland. It is now one of an increasing number of farms and rural estates that are using the income and profile of nature-based tourism to help fund and publicise rewilding projects, restoring large-scale ecosystems to help repair damaged habitats, regenerate degraded landscapes and promote more biodiversity. It is otherwise known as ‘re-naturing’ as they are re-engineering the land as nature intended. Governments, too, are putting in place measures to encourage rewilding as a means to combat climate change, on land and at sea, through the storing of carbon in soil, bogs, scrub and trees, and the restoration of seagrass meadows and kelp forests. Examples include rewetting of peat bogs, restoration of watercourses, creation of wetlands, removal of intensive grazing, reintroduction of key flora and fauna, allowance of natural regeneration and planting forests. Sheepdrove (from top right): The view from boathouse across the swimming lake; the pontoon in front of the boathouse; electric bikes in front of the boathouse; one of the many wildflower meadows. Here are some examples of other places, like Sheepdrove, where you can see rewilding in action while contributing to much needed regeneration of the land. Knepp Castle Estate, West Sussex Camp in a meadow or stay in one of the glampsites (treehouses, tents, yurts, shepherd’s huts), and go on safari around one of the largest and best-known rewilding estates in lowland Britain, where you will see herds of wild ponies, cattle, deer and pigs as they roam 3,500 acres (1,400ha) of Sussex, driving the forces of habitat regeneration. The co-owner, Isabella Tree, is the author of the seminal book on the subject that charts how she and her husband transformed their loss-making farm in lowland Britain into a ground-breaking rewilding project: Wilding: The Return of Nature to a British Farm (kneppsafaris.co.uk). Keep up to date with this evolving project by watching Kneppflix – snapshot videos of the latest happenings (e.g. The art of roaring). knepp.co.uk There are two treehouses and several other glamping options, including bell tents, at Knepp Safaris Kingsdale Head, North Yorkshire A 1,500-acre (600-ha) upland farm near the village of Ingleton, just below Whernside, the highest peak in the Yorkshire Dales. The owners are working to restore the natural hydrology of the wet heathland and grassland habitats, enabling it to hold more water and store more carbon by using a small herd of cattle to change the impact of grazing, while reintroducing more native shrubs and trees. Yo u can see it all while staying in a cottage next to the main farmhouse – explore the farm’s sheltered woodland and waterfalls, and venture further to the Forest of Bowland. kingsdalehead.com Ken Hill Estate, Norfolk One of the filming locations for BBC’s Springwatch programme, this estate’s rewilding project is a much about regenerative agriculture as it is about nature recovery, demonstrating that land can be used to tackle climate change as well as improve air and water quality. Join guided tours of the farm and the extensive rewilding area and learn about vital grazing of the Exmoor ponies, Tamworth pigs and Red Poll cattle, as well as the variety of wildlife, including beavers. wildkenhill.co.uk Ken Hill in Norfolk runs guided tours to see rewilding in action Dundreggan Rewilding Centre, Inverness Based at its own 10,000-acre (4,000-ha) estate at Dundreggan in the Scottish Highlands, Trees for Life is working to restore ancient Caledonia Forest from the last remains of this original wild forest, especially around Glen Affric and Glenmoriston. Visit the centre for the day or stay at the estate as a conservation volunteer, or at its bothy in the nature reserve of Glen Affric. treesforlife.org.uk Alladale Wilderness Reserve, Sutherland Owner Paul Lister has for many years been one of the most vocal advocates of rewilding. His 23,000-acre (9,300-ha) reserve includes extensive native tree planting, peatland restoration, outdoor learning for teenagers and multiple wildlife conservation projects. Stay in fully catered lodges (for groups of up to 30) or go self-catering 7 miles (11.3km) away at the off-grid Deanich Lodge (pictured above), which sleeps ten. The income from your stay will contribute to The European Nature Trust (below). alladale.com Rewilding Britain Rewilding Britain was founded in 2015 to restore ecosystems across Britain. Its manifesto is to see ‘a mosaic of species-rich habitats restored and connected across at least 30 per cent of Britain’s land and sea by 2030’, which it hopes to achieve by the creation of core rewilding areas across at least 5 per cent of Britain, and the establishment of nature-enhancing land and marine uses across at least 25 per cent of Britain. rewildingbritain.org Rewilding Europe Rewilding Europe is based in The Netherlands and has been working since 2011 to create rewilded landscapes in over ten regions across Europe, including the Greater Côa Valley in Portugal, The Danube Delta in Ukraine, Romania and Moldova, the Rhodope Mountains in Bulgaria and the Oder Delta in Germany and Poland. rewildingeurope.com The European Nature Trust Discover some of the last remaining wild corners of Europe in Italy, Romania and Spain on a week-long conservation holiday where you’ll be guided by local experts and meet with ecologists working to save habitats and species. A portion of the cost of your holiday includes a donation to the foundations and charities you meet. The European Nature Trust (TENT) was founded by Alladale’s Paul Lister, and the trips are organised by the Gloucester-based outdoor conservation holiday specialist tour operator Steppes Travel. theeuropeannaturetrust.com European Safari Company Support wild nature and the reintroduction of species in Europe by joining one of 40 safari holidays in Bulgaria, Croatia, Germany, Italy, The Netherlands, Portugal, Romania, Poland, Slovenia and Sweden. Holidays including wolf tracking in Italy’s Apennines and bison tracking in the Tarcu Mountains of Romania. Five per cent of your booking goes directly to the local Rewilding Europe organization, funding projects such as bear corridors in the Central Apennines, the reintroduction of bison in the Southern Carpathians and developing wildlife reserves in Croatia’s Velebit Mountains. europeansafaricompany.com Other places to see rewilding in action Broughton Sanctuary, Yorkshire: Stay in a range of self-catering holiday homes on this 3,000-acre (1,200-ha) estate, home to the Broughton Sanctuary Nature Recovery Programme. broughtonhall.co.uk Rewilding Escapes, Scotland: Join a week-long, organized holiday for small groups in some of the wilder areas of Scotland, including the Highlands and the Knoydart Peninsula. scotlandbigpicture.com Coombeshead, Devon: Camp in a small meadow or stay in one of several shepherd’s huts at the edge of a 150-acre (61-ha) rewilding project close to Dartmoor. rewildingcoombeshead.co.uk == This is an edited extract from The Green Traveller (Pavilion, £18.99)

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Estonia, here's our selection of some of the wonderful places to visit across the country. Estonia has over 250 museums, galleries and visitor attractions documenting the country’s long and fascinating history, both along its long and varied coastline where castles, manors and forts have been important strategic strongholds (Estonia has more than 1,000 dating back to the 13th Century), as well as inland, where farming has been a way of life for centuries. Discover time-honoured craftsmanship that bring history alive at the many visitor centres – both in its cities and throughout the countryside – that provide interactive art and craft workshops, as well as a range of elegant and historical architectural monuments, from the medieval to the modern age. Move to the rhythm of the nation, through stirring song and dance traditions given a fresh tempo by the younger generation. Interactive Google Map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Estonia: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Kaali crater The site on the island of Saaremaa of a large meteorite that hit the earth here approximately 7,000 years ago. Surrounded by trees, the crater (now filled with water) has a diameter of 110m and is 22m deep (there are also eight other small craters on the island that were created by the same explosion). It is thought that the site figured prominently in local mythology, perhaps as a sacrificial site. kaali.kylastuskeskus.ee Lodjakoda See how an historic Estonian ship is constructed as this ship-building centre that doubles as a museum and theme park. Pride of place is the 24m two-master wooden trading vessel Emajõe-Peipsi (with its unusually round and flat-bottomed hull) sailed the shallow inland waters of Estonia for over 600 years. A cinema shows the chronicle of these fascinating barges and you can also join themed barge sailing trips led by a professional guide on the river Emajõgi, such as early morning birdsong, star-gazing and bat-watching. lodi.ee Hara harbour and submarine base On the north coast just east of Tallinn, the Hara harbour was an important strategic base during the Tsarist rule, in the period of independence before the Second World War, and also during the Soviet occupation when a military port was established here, including a submarine base where the vessels were demagnetised to make them less susceptible to mines. There are guided tours of the former submarine base and the nearby military town, and for those who want to explore the area further, there are boat trips around Hara Bay and to join the Majakivi hiking trail. harasadam.ee Moe museum and visitor centre Vodka has been produced in Estonia since the 1400s and Moe is one of the few remaining places where Estonian vodka is still produced, using raw materials grown in Estonia and Estonian water. Book a 45-minute tour of the museum, take part in a tasting of hand-crafted flavoured vodka, or just come for a drink and enjoy the atmosphere of the second oldest working vodka distillery in the world. visit.moe.ee Windtower Experience Centre An impressive 29-metre high windtower on the island of Hiiumaa off the west coast that’s an interactive museum, research centre and adventure centre. The museum celebrates the relationship of the islanders to the elements (land, sea and air) – visitors can walk on a muddy seabed and discover the sights and sounds of the island, including an ancient shipwreck and a NATO submarine. The centre is also home to a 20-metre indoor climbing wall - the highest in the Baltics. tuuletorn.ee Estonian National Museum Learn about the historical context of life in Estonia at the country’s largest museum through workshops, educational programmes and guided tours. There are two permanent exhibitions: ‘Encounters’ (about life in Estonia since the Ice Age) and ‘Echo of the Urals’ (about the life of the Finno-Ugric peoples) plus there are other several other temporary cultural and heritage exhibitions that change each year. www.erm.ee TYPA Printing and Paper Art Museum An innovative museum and visitor centre that pays homage to the country’s letterpress printing era. Learn how paper is made and marvel at the old historical printing presses, typefaces, and paper sculptures. There are also workshops on papermaking, binding handmade books and cyanotype. typa.ee Kumu Art Museum Become immersed with Estonia’s social and culture issues at the largest art museum in the country. Kumu (an amalgamation of the Estonian word ‘kunst’, which means art, and museum) opened in 2006 to document the country’s art from the 18th Century to the modern day and to stimulate discussion on contemporary issues, incubating new ideas for domestic and international artists. kumu.ekm.ee/en Kuressaare Castle Originally constructed in the 14th Century, Kuressaare Castle (also known as Kuressaare Episcopal Castle) on the southern coast of Saaremaa island, is one of the best-preserved fortresses in Estonia. Inside, the museum, which was founded in 1865, tells the story of the stronghold’s remarkable history through four periods: the period of the bishops (first half of the 15th Century), the Danish period (16th/early 17th Century), the Swedish period (17th/18th Century) and the Russian period to 1918. saaremaamuuseum.ee Samovar House A delightful small museum in the Old Believer’s village near Lake Peipus dedicated to a private collection of over 100 samovars – metal urns that are used to boil water to make tea. Here you can learn about their history and traditions associated with tea drinking in Estonia, and you can try drinking Ivan-chai from an authentic samovar. visitestonia.com/en/samovar-house-in-varnja Hellenurme Mill Museum An historic watermill built in 1880 by the River Elva whose machines (bought by the great grandfather of the mill’s current owner) are still operational. Visitors can watch the entire process of turning grain into flour, while learning about the traditions and lifestyle of past occupants of the mill. veskimuuseum.ee Rakvere Castle A great day out for the family. Re-live the adventure and splendour of the Medieval Ages, dressing up as knights and warriors at this beautiful castle that has belonged to Danish Kings, knight-monks of the Livonian Order, as well as the Swedish and Polish states. The museum has a range of exhibitions depicting life in the Middle Ages, including a wine cellar, torture chamber, barber, and an alchemist’s workshop. rakverelinnus.ee Tammsaare Museum Visit the birthplace of Anton Hansen Tammsaare, one of the most famous Estonian writers who wrote the novel Truth and Justice, which depicts life in the late 19th Century battling with the elements in rural Estonia. The museum provides an insight into the parallels between the book and the writer’s cultural and literary heritage, as well as an overview of the harsh life at a 19th Century farm among the swamps and bogs of the Järva County. vargamae.ee Historic lighthouses Lighthouse have long played an important part of coastal life in sea-faring Estonia – an ancient maritime nation – whose coastline extends for over 3,700 kilometres. Three of the most popular to visit for their spectacular architecture are the 500-year old lighthouse at Kõpu – the third oldest continually operating lighthouse in the world; the cast-iron lighthouse at Tahkuna on the north end of Hiiumaa, which is the tallest lighthouse in Estonia; and the red lighthouse at Ristna, which is built among the bogs of the northern cape and if often concealed by fog. == For nearby places to stay, as well as where to find local food and drink, and outdoor low impact adventure activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Estonia

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to West Sweden we've picked out a selection of places to eat. Sweden is known around the globe for the quality of its seafood, and West Sweden is perhaps the best place of all to find all manner of local gastronomical delights. Fishing is a way of life in West Sweden, and almost every island and town has its own speciality. The town of Grebbestad in particular is a shellfish lover's dream, with 90% of all oysters and around half of all lobsters caught in the country being trawled in from its seas. Needless to say, this makes for a veritable feast of restaurants whose menus offer nothing but dishes made from fish and shellfish caught earlier that day. Plus, if you still had any doubt as to the quality of these restaurants, many have been presented with the Taste of West Sweden award, which singles out those eateries doing fantastic things with the freshest, local produce. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to West Sweden: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places to eat in West Sweden Salt and Sill It wasn't enough for Salt and Sill to be Sweden's first floating hotel, they also needed to develop one of the finest restaurants in the region. Having won a Taste of West Sweden award, the restaurant proudly serves up traditional dishes with an innovative twist. It also boasts a stunning location, with a seating area for around 120 people on a pier that offers unrivalled views out over the sea. Having first opened in 1999, Salt and Sill has become famous for its Herring Platter, as well as developing a strong following for its focus on high quality, locally sourced seafood. Salt and Sill has also been awarded the status 'Worth a Journey' and 'White's Heart' by White Guide, the Swedish Restaurant Guide. saltosill.se Rökeriet in Strömstad This unique little fish and shellfish restaurant in Strömstad's guest harbour is given all its character by the smoke-house that allows guests to witness the smoking process either from the comfort of the restaurant or from the harbour outside. The ground floor of the restaurant is wonderfully intimate, with an open fireplace and a small bar. Upstairs is a loft area offering further seating and great views out over the ocean. Having also won the Taste of West Sweden award, the restaurant offers such dishes as Koster fresh water prawns with seaweed bread, and the Småplocktallrick, which is a delicious collection of wood-fired fish pieces with potato salad. vastsverige.com Väderöarnas Värdshus Thirty minutes by boat from Fjällbacka on the Swedish mainland is the archipelago known as Weather Islands, a collection of once-deserted islands, now a away-from-everything place to stay and a secluded venue for conferences and wedding. The only guesthouse on the archipelago has a fabulous granite sauna and seawater hot tub with uninterrupted views of the sea; they organise langoustine and lobster fishing trips year-round, which are followed by cooking and tastings. They also run tours of the archipelago and story nights. vaderoarna.com Sea Lodge, Smögen As the website proudly states, Lea Lodge is the only gourmet restaurant in Smögen to have been awarded a Taste of West Sweden award. The restaurant offers up a mouthwatering menu that draws its inspiration directly from the ocean, using only the freshest ingredients. Guests can also venture out with a skipper and try their hand at fishing for lobster, the 'black gold of the ocean'. Whatever you bring back can then be cooked and served in the restaurant. For a truly luxurious experience, combine the day of fishing with a 5-course lobster supper and an overnight stay at the hotel, with its breathtaking views out over the Smögen Archipelago. sealodge.se Bjertorp Manor Restaurant Bjertorp's restaurant is renowned for the freshness of its ingredients, while the castle dinner menu constantly changes to reflect the season - early spring will see local deer on offer, while winter makes way for a wealth of wild game and root vegetables. Open seven days a week, the restaurant also offers an impressive brasserie menu complete with home made soup and pan-fried trout from Lake Vätten. vastsverige.com Karingo The father-and-daughter team of Kent Berndtsson and Camilla Hofsten have transformed their property on a small archipelago in the north-west of Bohuslan into a renowned oyster bar and retreat. The site now offers accommodations ranging from a 16th century fisherman's cottage to a newly-built wooden villa, each with spectacular views over the harbour. Between September and June, guests can indulge in champagne and oysters in true style from the wood-fired seawater hot tub at the end of the jetty - the most luxurious option also includes fresh lobster and a liqueur to finish, although be sure to book as part of a group. There's also the chance to learn a little more about the history of oyster farming once you're done shucking. Musselbaren This mussel bar and restaurant is set in the historic health spa resprt of Lyckorna on Sweden's beautiful west coast. The menu is simple: moules frites, moules marinière and moule Roquefort, with additional seasonal ingredients coming from local farms in the area. Between April and October, the restaurant runs boat trips out to the fjord to the mile-wide mussel farms where visitors can harvest live blue mussels before heading back to shore and cooking them up together in a cookery class at the restaurant. musselbaren.se

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Green Spain, Ginny Light picks out a selection of visitor attractions in Galicia, Asturias, Cantabria and the Basque Country. The range of landscapes across Green Spain, with coastline, countryside, mountains and cities in such close proximity makes for a mind-blowing variety of attractions in a compact region. The range of sweeping bays, coves and islands along the coastline means one never knows what to expect around the next corner. This scenery has inspired artists and architects through the centuries and as such visitors can enjoy art and architecture from its earliest beginnings to avante garde modern. Evidence of the extraordinary history of mankind in this area has been left in various forms from Paleolithic cave art through baroque basilicas to cutting edge outdoor sculpture and modern art museums. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Green Spain: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places of interest in Green Spain The Basque Country La Concha beach, San Sebastian Often referred to as one of the world’s finest urban beaches, La Concha is minutes’ walk from the old town and so named for its elegant arching shell-like shape that stretches 1,500 metres. The striking beachside spa and restaurant, La Perla, epitomises the Belle Epoque architecture seen throughout the city and even the ‘Concha Railings’ along the entire promenade are famous for their elegant ironwork. The beach is sheltered from the Atlantic swell by the Santa Clara island in the centre of the bay, which offers a landing point for swimmers and kayakers, and is protected from wind by the Urgull and Igueldo mountains. These are the best viewpoints from which to enjoy the beach, the former is accessible by Spain’s oldest funicular which rattles up for a return fare of E3.15. sansebastianturismo.com/en Chillida’s Wind Comb, San Sebastian San Sebastian has numerous public artworks, the most famous of which is Eduardo Chillida’s three dramatic steel sculptures mounted on rocks at the western end of Ondarreta beach. The situation was chosen by Basque architect Luis Peña Ganchegui to be be within the tidal ranges so the sculptures look dramatically different when viewed at high or low tide. These ‘Peigne du Vent’ are the starting point for the Côte Contemporaine walking trail that includes further work by Chillida and fellow Basque sculptor, Nestor Basterretxea. At the eastern end of the beach a pedestrian tunnel below the El Pico del Loro outcrop has a changing display of art and leads to La Concha beach and another Chillida work. sansebastianturismo.com/en/to-do/what-not-to-miss/ondarreta-beach Frank Gehry’s Bilbao Guggenheim Museum The Guggenheim is to Bilbao what the Opera House is to Sydney - an icon that is inseparable from the name ‘Bilbao’. The museum celebrated its 20th anniversary last year by welcoming its 20th millionth visitor, drawn by the striking titanium and stone architecture and the vast and varied collection of art. In fact, so successful has been the building been in turning around the fortunes of the city, that the term “Bilbao effect” was coined to describe when a declining area is revived following investment in a prestigious and bold public building designed by a ‘starchitect’, in this case, Gehry. At the very least a stroll around the outside is a must to see the building from every angle and enjoy the sculptures and installations around the perimeter by the likes of Jeff Koons and Anish Kapoor. guggenheim-bilbao.eus/en Cantabria Centro Botin, Santander Another monument to culture built by prestigious architect, Renzo Piano, this landmark transformed a former dockside car park. The two wings of the building sit on columns and dramatically overhang the sea. They host an art museum on one side and an auditorium, classrooms and roof terrace on the other. The squares around the building are used for outdoor cinema events and merge into the shady Pereda Gardens beyond. The El Muelle cafe inside the centre is a good spot for afternoon tea. centrobotin.org/en Santillana del Mar This historic hilltop town is famous for its well-preserved medieval architecture and nearby paleolithic art but is also known as the town of the three lies, because it is neither holy (santi), flat (llana) or by the sea (del mar). The town grew up around the collegiate church of Santa Juliana, a national monument and one of the best examples of Romanesque architecture in Cantabria. There are many museums including one dedicated to clocks and another, unusually, to instruments of torture. The pale stone, cobbled streets and window boxes awash with flowers make for a pretty place to amble and consequently in summer, the streets can get crowded with tourists. Take a break with a glass of milk and slice of “Bizcocho”, a traditional delicate sponge cake. santillana-del-mar.com/en Caves of Altamira Two kilometres outside Santillana del Mar are the Altamira caves where a series of 145,000-year-old paintings of bison, doe and horses were found. The actual relics are closed to visitors to protect them from deterioration, bar a tiny ballot of ticket-holders each week, but a painstakingly built replica exists, with drawings created using the charcoal and red oxides of the original. The cave was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1985 and is often referred to as ‘the Sistine Chapel’ of quaternary art. There is also a museum which is host to temporary exhibitions and workshops alongside information about the paintings and their discovery. The site is closed on Mondays and some public holidays. culturaydeporte.gob.es/mnaltamira Asturias Llanes Llanes (pronounced ‘Janice’) has it all - a pretty harbourfront, sandy coves and the Picos de Europa mountains as a backdrop. Part of the town’s medieval defences remain, including 300 metres of pre-Romanesque walls and a tower now occupied by the tourist office. Of the 29 beaches close to the town the most popular is Playa el Sablon because it is tranquil and reached by the Paseo San Pedro walk, a scenic 800 metres long. However, the most curious beaches are Cobijeru and Gulpiyuri, which face inland and have been created by water and sand rushing through gaps in the cliff. Another beach, Poo, is the most giggle-inducing but beautiful despite the name and pronounced ‘Poe’ in Spanish. Elaborate colonial mansions surround Llana that were built by emigres returning from Latin America bringing with them wealth from exports and a cosmopolitan style termed ‘Indian architecture’. Artisan cheese from ‘queserías’ and cidre houses called ‘sidrerías’ are among the gastronomic specialities. whereisasturias.com/llanes-asturias Cueva de Tito Bustillo, Ribadesella An astounding series of prehistoric paintings and engravings were discovered in this limestone cave complex, part of the Massif of Ardines, in 1968 by a group of cavers. They are named after one of the group who died shortly after the discovery in a mountaineering accident. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the focus for visitors is the cave art centre, which has interactive displays, replicas of the art and information about geology, enthnology and about caving. Access to the 12 collections of caves is limited to the ‘Panel Principal’. It includes scenes of deer, reindeer, goats, horses, and bisons painted thousands of years apart. Tours are restricted to certain days and offered only in Spanish. centrotitobustillo.com Gijón Railway Museum This museum charts the railway history of Asturias, restores locomotives and offers a meeting place for rail enthusiasts - one of the rooms is dedicated to railway modelling which delights young and old visitors alike. Its rolling stock number 140, many of which can be climbed aboard to take a look inside. The museum is inside the former North Train Station of Gijón, near Poniente Beach. There is free admission on Sundays and is most popular on its ‘Steam Days’ when visitors are able to ride on some of the heritage models. museos.gijon.es Castro de Coana The ‘castros’ are a distinctive style of pre-Roman settlement found across the Iberian peninsula. This site is renowned for its size and variety of constructions including an acropolis and the ruins of 80 circular buildings. It is thought that at one time as many as 2,000 people lived here. It has been excavated since the late 19th century and paints a vivid picture of the layout of hilltop villages of the era. The so-called ‘sacred precinct’ houses an area thought to be public baths including a swimming pool and sauna. It is believed that the settlement thrived on the gold trade and was an important defensive position above the Navia river. It is now 4km inland from Navia town outside Coana. castrosdeasturias.es/castros/46/15/el-castro-de-coaa Galicia Lugo Lugo is best known for its city walls - the entire perimeter around what was the Roman town of Lucus Augusti remain intact making them the finest example of late Roman fortifications in western Europe. Visitors can encircle the town on the 2.3km walkway along the top of the walls. Lugo is also one of the main stopping off points along the Camino Primitivo, the oldest Camino de Santiago route, and is famous for its cathedral, Praza de Santa Maria. The 12th century Romanesque building has evolved over time to incorporate elements of Baroque, Gothic and Neoclassical styles. turismolugo.info The Roman bridge, Ourense Known as Ponte Vella or Puente Mayor, this striking structure is an emblem of the city and spans the river Miño. Although subsequent repairs have been carried out, the Roman foundations remain with a medieval construction above. The bridge was once considered the largest in Spain and links the historic south of the town with the Franco-era north. The town is also popular, especially among walkers, for its thermal baths which range from the free public ones to expensive private spas with hot pools and treatments. The Chavasqueira pools come recommended as does the Japanese style complex at Outariz. There is even a ‘thermal train’ that travels from the town’s main square to the thermal bath areas. visitaourense.com For nearby places to stay, local food and drink, and low impact outdoor adventure activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Green Spain

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Green Spain, Ginny Light picks out a selection of outdoor activities in Galicia, Asturias, Cantabria and the Basque Country. The variety on offer in Green Spain is very much a product of its geography - lush green hillsides slope down to beach with the Picos de Europa a snowy backdrop. Within an hour’s drive one can go from surfing the swell of the Bay of Biscay to rock climbing the Picos crags. Cycling is also popular here together with hiking, and watersports that require wind - kitesurfing, windsurfing and surfing. Diving is offered all along the coast and the many rivers flowing down from the mountains make for a varied offering for canoeists. The gastronomic scene is distinct here as a product of climate and history and as such there are numerous wine, cider and cheese tasting tours undertaken by passionate small and large scale producers. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Green Spain: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Activities in Green Spain Basque Bike tour around Bilbao You can tour Bilbao on foot, by rollerskate, by go-kart and by kayak, but one of the best ways to cover a lot of ground and get a feel for the city is by bike. There are numerous operators of which Tourné is highly regarded. The three-hour Bilbao introduction tour is offered every day at 10am for 2-12 people. The tour includes classic sites such as the Guggenheim and Palacio Euskalduna staying mostly to cycle paths and away from heavy traffic. It costs E32 and includes a pintxos stop. The company also offers the ‘Underground’ tour for E35 for three hours. It visits lesser-known areas of the city such as Bilbao La Vieja, Zorrozaure and Bótica Vieja. tournebilbao.com Marques de Riscal Rioja’s vineyards, or bodegas, are relatively new to the business of tourism but have rapidly upped the ante by building evermore adventurous structures to draw visitors. One of the most arresting is the Marques de Riscal bodega, designed by Frank Gehry, of Bilbao’s Guggenheim museum fame. The company started making wine in 1862 and the original cellar remains in situ but in 2006 a dramatic new look was unveiled. It has been compared to a scrunched handkerchief and the ruffles of a flamenco dancer’s skirt. The contorted twists of pink, gold and silver titanium stand out against the combed hillsides in the village of Elciego, but strangely co-exist, reflecting the changing colours of the vines and the limestone rock. There is now a hotel, two restaurants, a shop, cafe and spa with grape-themed treatments and two ‘barrel baths’. A tour lasts 90 minutes, costs E16 per person (free for under 10s, E8 for 10-17 year olds) and includes tasting of two wines paired with sausage and chorizo from Rioja. marquesderiscal.com Wine tasting at Bodegas Ysios In the neighbouring village of Laguardia, another dramatic temple to wine has been constructed, this time with the help of Valencian architect Santiago Calatrava. His winery flows in waves east-to-west alongside the vines and is intended to mimic a row of wine barrels. The design is a contrast of smooth shapes and square blocks which create an optical illusion from a distance and almost make it look pixelated. Visitors are offered a tour of the building and tastings of Tempranillo wines from Rioja Alavesa. It is a good idea to book any bodega tour in advance to get your desired time and language. visitas.pernodricardbodegas.com Cantabria Surfing at Somo The Atlantic coastline of Green Spain makes it a popular year-round surfer’s paradise and there are countless beaches with good breaks and facilities for surfers. Somo is in the Bay of Santander in Cantabria and offers a 7km stretch of waves. It is popular with surfers of all levels and has a number of surf schools including Somo's Beach Surf School. It is one of the newer outfits and is popular for its young, enthusiastic instructors and for its location. You can have individual lessons from E50 for two hours or join a group and pay less. Somo is accessible by ferry from Santander. The currents on the beach are strong and surfers should pay attention to the warning flags. somossurfschool.com Asturias Ruta Sidra y Queso Across Asturias are reminders of the favourite local tipple - cidre. There are cidre houses, called siderias, in every village and orchards of trees which greet spring and early summer visitors with a stunning display of blossom. The most authentic cidres are produced using only apples with ‘PDO’ status or ‘place of designated origin’. This highly regarded tour offers a walk through the town of Asiegu where cider is made alongside Cabrales, the famous Asturian cheese, which is matured in a cave. It finishes with an ‘espicha’, a traditional celebration meal. Tours cost E25 for adults, E12 for six and over and free for under 5s and are offered in the morning and evening. It takes four hours and iis best to book in advance. rutalquesuylasidra.com Cycling the Senda del Oso The ‘Path of the Bear’ is a easy-going cycling and walking route through beautiful Asturian scenery. The asphalted path follows an old railway track that was previously used to transport coal. It is so-named because of the bear enclosure at Buyera that houses Cantabrian brown bears (behind a fence!). The 22km route goes from Tuñón to Entrago and includes 11 bridge crossings and a number of tunnels. There are options for a 2km and 6km route and also new branch tracks have increased the total rideable track to 48km. It is popular with families because of the flat paths and many local rental shops have trailers and toddler seats for bikes. turismoasturias.es/descubre/naturaleza/rutas/senderismo/senda-del-oso Canoeing in Picos de Europa The descent of the River Sella is one of the most famous canoeing routes in Asturias. There is a mass event on the first Saturday of August each year when upwards of a thousand canoeists from around the world take part in the descent from Arriondes to Ribadesella on the coast. But it can be undertaken at any other time. The Ransella school of canoeing offers boats for 1-3 people and a transfer back to the start from Llovio, which is close to Ribadesella. It takes around 3-4 hours to reach Llovio from Arriondas. And costs E25 per person or E30 on the International Descent of Sella Day, now in its 82nd year (2019). The race is accompanied by a train on the Feve track, which runs close to the river, and carries supporters who can cheer racers out of the windows. piraguismo.com Bird watching at Covadonga Lakes The Covadonga lakes are two glacial lakes in the Picos de Europa national park about 30 minutes drive from the striking church of the same name. En route to the lake are a number of viewpoints, or mirador, from which to take in the stunning Asturian landscape. At the lakes birdwatchers can see griffon vultures, eagles, redstarts, yellow-billed choughs and northern wheateaters in the summer. The company Birdwatch Asturias can provide a guide, telescope, bird guides and binoculars, including ones for children, for E25 for a four-hour tour starting in Cangas de Onís. The tours, on foot and by car, include information about agrarian life, geography and, of course, bird behaviour, and run from mid March to the end of October. birdwatchasturias.es Galicia 8. Diving in Fuciño do Porco The Fuciño do Porco, or ‘pig’s snout’ dive site in Punta Socastro is best known for its natural tunnel. This makes for an exciting dive that is accessible for all levels of diver from beginner to advanced. Atlantic marine wildlife includes octopus, brightly coloured sea slugs and star fish. The guided dive for 1-10 people takes 90 minutes and costs from E33 including weights and tank air. wildsea.eu/spain/galicia/marina-lucense/punta-socastro/dive-in-fucino-do-porco Nautilus Environmental Cruise in Vigo This guided boat tour of the bay of Vigo allows you to see the marine life of the Atlantic without donning a swimsuit - a remote vessel with underwater camera transmits images back to the main ship. The 90-minute trip includes sightings of shipwrecks and wildlife accompanied by commentary. It costs from E16 per person and is offered in Spanish, and is available in English if booked by a group. wildsea.eu/spain/galicia/rias-baixas Follow in the footsteps of pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago Across Green Spain one can expect sightings of a scallop shell sign on trees, posts and walls guiding walkers along the trail of the famous pilgrimage route, the Camino de Santiago. There are eight main routes but the original, the Camino Frances, starts in France at St Jean Pied de Port and crosses the Pyrenees and Green Spain region to Santiago de Compostela. The shortest version is the Camino Inglés, starting in A Coruña and covering just over 100km to Santiago. It can also be tackled by bicycle or on horseback. The idea is to complete it alone, although most travel in groups. Either way, it is time for quiet contemplation and appreciation of nature, as well as the astoundingly beautiful cathedral at the end. caminodesantiago.gal/es/inicio For nearby places to stay, local food and drink, and local attractions, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Green Spain

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Green Spain, Ginny Light picks out a selection of places to eat in Galicia, Asturias, Cantabria and the Basque Country. Food in Green Spain is very much a product of the climate and culture - there is the same vast spectrum of seafood that one might have encountered in the Costas, Balearics and in neighbouring Portugal, but also meat and bean dishes. The region owes its name to its temperate climate and as such is more verdant than the drier central and southern parts of the country. This pasture supports cows and lambs in abundance and as such meat dishes and a multitude of cheeses are among the regional specialities. The beans that feature in stews such as ‘fabada’ are a consequence of the Latin American influence. Emigres fled this part of Spain for Latin America in the early 20th century and brought back with them maize and beans among other cultural imports. Tapas here is called ‘pintxos’, or ‘raciones’, a slightly larger portion. It can be eaten any time of the day, and dinner is a late affair - often not starting until after 10pm. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Green Spain: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places to eat in Green Spain The Basque Country Eneperi Gatetxea One of the most dramatic sights on the Basque coast is a church that clings perilously to a rocky pimple, and is reached by a zigzag of 241 stone steps from the shore. The best spot from which to enjoy San Juan de Gaztelugatxe with a glass of the local white wine, txakoli, in your hand is Eneperi, a restaurant on the hillside. If time is short there is pintxos at the bar - the tortilla is runny as it should be and served with Iberico ham or padron peppers. Alternatively there is a smarter, rustic restaurant with fish a speciality, although the best views are from the casual dining restaurant with vast windows overlooking the island. There is also a huge terrace with outdoor seating and a children’s playground. Expect ‘raciones’, plates, chorizo (txorizoa) or croquetas (kroketak) or larger dishes such as bacalao (salt cod) or Iberian pork cheeks (from E15 a dish). eneperi.com Casa Vergara 1948 This pintxos bar in San Sebastian’s old town specialises in cod, including cod cheeks and bacalao, but diners can expect the pintxos classics here too such as tortilla and jamon Iberico. The vibe, especially on Friday and Saturday nights is buzzy and the staff, in fashionable white shirts and black aprons, are ebullient and efficient, pouring local cider and wine from a height while diners choose from the buffet along the bar. The joy of pintxos here is that everyone eats together - old, young, tourists and locals. Pintxos costs from E2.50 per plate. grupogarrancho.com/en/bares/casa-vergara-1948 Cantabria El Bodegón San Vicente Barquera is a pretty harbour town overlooking an estuary and has an active fishing port. Consequently, this restaurant specialises in fish caught in the Bay of Biscay, notably hake, squid and octopus. El Bodegón has been favourite with residents and visitors since it opened in the 1960s, so in the peak summer months you may have to wait for a table. There is a bar and covered terrace. The restaurant is open all year. elbodegonsvb.com Casa Cofino, Caviedes This restaurant, in the small hillside town of Caviedes specialises in traditional dishes - the most famous here are the cocido montañes, or mountain stew, and the albóndigas, or meatballs. The former comes with beans, kale, chorizo and morcilla sausage and the latter, the size of tennis balls, is served with chipped potatoes. There is a delicatessen on site for those who want to leave with a souvenir of Cantabrian produce. If you have room for dessert, the arroz con leche is a local speciality, with anise and cinnamon on top, or the cheesecake is a popular option. There is a broad wine selection and the prices are reasonable - so expect that you might have to wait for a table during peak season, but it is worth it. facebook.com/pages/Casa-Cofi Casa Lucas This restaurant in Correpoco, in the Cantabrian mountains, has been running for over 50 years and began as a small taverna around a wooden stove. There is accommodation on site as well as a bakery that makes bread and pastries so renowned that they are shipped all over Cantabria. The classic mountain food is on offer here - stew in many forms - and prize winning at that. The chef took the title of "Days of Cocido Montañés and Cocido Lebaniego" in 2012. Here it can come with beans and chorizo, venison or clams. There are also unusual dishes not seen elsewhere such as venison carpaccio with Gomber cheese flakes, wild boar with nuts and dried fruit and mushroom croquettes. casa-lucas.es/restaurante El Machi This fashionable restaurant has a strong (but chic) maritime theme owing to its proximity to the port and its extensive seafood menu, fresh from Santander’s fish market every day. The building has always been a taverna, albeit an eccentric one where the former owner served vermouth and train tickets through the front window - hence the sign that remains on the facade: "atencion al tren". The bar downstairs is popular for small plates - the usual croquettes and so forth but also unusual options such as monkfish taquitos and prawn French toast. The restaurant menu is predominantly fish based with dishes such as clams three ways, various takes on paella, and hake five ways. There is an extensive wine list. elmachi.es Asturias The Coral del Indianu This Michelin-starred restaurant in Arriondes is overseen by head chef José Antonio Campoviejo, who creates playful and out-of-this-world dishes using ingredients from Asturias and beyond. There are various tasting menus as well as an a la carte. The dishes change daily but some classics remain such as the chef’s delicate take on fabada, a local bean stew. In some of the more zany dishes, sweet and savoury merge, such as parcels of the local Calabrese cheese stuffed with chocolate and baked apple, or there are classics such as Iberian ham croquette, but with guacamole and marinated onion. The restaurant is bright and airy and overlooks a terrace planted with lush vegetation. It is a beautiful setting in which to while away an evening or afternoon. elcorraldelindianu.com Sidreria El Guia Siderias are a common site across Cantabria and this restaurant is a good example of where you can watch the escanciadores, cider pourers, deliver cider poured from a great height into customers’ glasses. It is in the pretty harbour town of ​​Ribadesella with a backdrop of the Pico de Europa and gets much of its fresh fish straight from the Bay of Biscay from an artisanal and sustainable fishery. Popular dishes include fish stew, clams, mussels, Galician octopus and steak. desdeasturias.com/restaurante-sidreria-la-guia-ribadesella Sidreria Casa Niembro This is the restaurant owned by the family who operate the popular Ruta de Sidra y Queso tour in Asiego. The menu is strong on Asturian ingredients and the dishes are all labelled as gluten-free. Handmade cheese such as the local calabres feature strongly, as does lamb, beef and vegetables from the El Nocéu organic farm in La Cuesta. The tortos, or maize pancakes, with calabres is traditional to the region and hints at the influence of south American cuisine brought back by emigres from Asturias. There is also Cantabrian anchovies, smoked beef and cod croquettes., all served with cider. rutalquesuylasidra.com/sidreria-casa-niembro Galicia Mariscomania This is the restaurant where you bring your own food. It is inside Santiago de Compostela’s Mercado de Abastos, or fish market, and the idea is that you buy the fresh produce, then take it to Mariscomnia to be cooked. The market sells fish caught in the Bay of Biscay but also meat and vegetables. The restaurant supplies drinks and desserts and is open Tuesday to Saturday from 9am to 3pm. There is a charge of E5 to cook each meal. mariscomania.com/en Bodeguilla de San Roque This restaurant is part of a small chain of eateries in Santiago de Compostela that offer traditional Galician dishes and some with a bit of a twist. This outpost is the oldest of the three on the site of an ancient taverna. It is close to the Galician People's Museum and the Galician Center for Contemporary Art. The ‘raciones’, or small plates, include sautéed octopus with prawns, croquettes and anchovy fillets. Galician beef, veal meatballs and fried baby squid are among the larger plates. There is a strong emphasis on regional ingredients and an extensive wine list including many Galician grapes. labodeguilla.gal/san-roque For nearby places to stay, visitor attractions and activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Green Spain

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Las Alpujarras, here is a selection of outdoor activities in this stunning region of southern Spain. With high peaks, a vast network of trails, snow in winter and long, sunny days in summer, Las Alpujarras is a playground for outdoor activities. Hiking is the big draw; three long-distance trails traverse the region, plus countless other mule tracks, ancient footpaths and dozens of acequias (Moorish irrigation channels) providing more options for splicing together walking routes. The terrain is ideal for mountain biking, and with quiet, winding, undulating highways, it’s unsurprising that road cycling is becoming increasingly popular. The Sierra Nevada is a biodiversity hotspot, now protected by both a natural park and national park (Spain’s largest); rare birds, butterflies and the big-horned ibex draw wildlife-watchers to the region. The Sierra Nevada is well known as a ski centre, but ice-climbing and snowshoeing are also possible in winter. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Las Alpujarras: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Activities in Las Alpujarras Walking in Spain - Valleys & High Slopes of Las Alpujarras Self-guided walking through the valleys & high slopes of Las Alpujarras, Spain takes a route following the trans-European long-distance GR7 path from Athens to Tarifa, in the shadow of the Sierra Nevada and along the cavernous Poqueira Gorge Walking in Spain - With Chris Stewart in Las Alpujarras A week walking with author Chris Stewart in Las Alpujarras, Spain. Based in a hotel in Mairena, take scenic walks and excursions that explore this alluring corner of southern Spain and then join Chris and his wife for meals and a tour of their farm. inntravel.co.uk/walking-holidays/spain/andalucia Walking in Spain - Rural Life in the Alpujarras Self-guided, single-centre walking holiday through the Sierra Nevada with scenic, varied walks along ancient paths linking other traditional villages, eating local food, you will gain a real insight into this alluring corner of southern Spain inntravel.co.uk/walking-holidays/spain/andalucia/rural-life-in-the-alpujarras Walking in Spain - Life in an Alpujarran Village Self-Guided Walking to Experience Life in an Alpujarran Village is an opportunity to take scenic, varied walks along ancient paths linking other traditional villages, seeing local farming practices and seasonal food preparation. inntravel.co.uk/walking-holidays/spain/andalucia/alpujarras Wildlife-watching with Jorge Garzón, Las Alpujarras, Spain Jorge is an experienced guide with an in-depth knowledge of the wildlife and flora of the Sierra Nevada. Having lived and worked in Australia and New Zealand as well as across Europe and North Africa, Jorge’s English is excellent and he has a charm and easy charisma that makes a nature walk with him a delight. He offers a range of tours and courses in Las Alpujarras and beyond, and is an authorised guide for Granada and the Alhambra. al-natural.eu Nevadensis, Las Alpujarras, Spain Guided walks and climbs of peaks including Mulhacén, plus canyoning, kayaking, skiing, snowshoeing, rock- and ice-climbing. nevadensis.com Aventura Rural, Las Alpujarras, Spain Shorter walks plus two-week supported treks along the Sulayr (GR240) circuit. Also canyoning, kayaking, bungy, snowshoeing and multi-adventure excursions. aventurarural.net Puerto de la Ragua, Almería, Spain The recreation station at the highest point of the pass over the mountains (2000m) offers equipment hire for cross-county skiing, sledging and mountain-biking. There are several waymarked trails spidering from the main chalet. puertodelaragua.com

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Las Alpujarras, here is a selection of events, and cultural and historic sites in this fascinating region of Spain. The ancient heritage of Las Alpujarras looms large across the region. Its villages are clusters of whitewashed houses topped by cone-hatted chimneys, lining winding alleys in a jumbled warren that resembles a Moroccan medina – and no wonder. Settled by Islamic invaders in the 8th century, these hills were for hundreds of years worked by Moorish farmers who created the network of acequias (irrigation channels) that still provide water for most villages, and which define the landscape. The cultural and historic attractions of the region echo both that Moorish heritage and a way of life that’s only really changed in the past few decades. Visit the eras (threshing floors) and weaving workshops and you’ll catch a glimpse of times past; more concrete reminders can be found at the castle of La Calahorra and the grand palaces and gardens of the Alhambra in Granada. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Las Alpujarras: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places of interest in Las Alpujarras Casa de los Telares, Las Alpujarras, Spain Among the fruit trees and chestnuts of Las Alpujarras, you’ll spot mulberries – not grown for fruit, but as food for the silkworms that were for centuries an important source of income. Find out more about the region’s silk and weaving heritage at the House of the Looms, where Lola García Moreno gives a fascinating introduction to the traditional methods of carding, spinning and weaving silk and wool. You’ll see antique looms in use in a room decorated with other period artefacts – carding combs, spinning wheels and so on – as well as skeins of wool coloured using natural dyes such as beetroot leaves, nettles, poppies and onion skins. Un Teatro Entre Todos, Las Alpujarras, Spain On the hillside above most of the villages in Las Alpujarras you’ll find curious paved circular areas some 4m across – the length of a poplar beam. These are eras, communal threshing floors, for centuries a centre of activity in the village where people came at harvest time to thresh grains but also to chat, gossip, sing and perform trovos – improvised poetic ‘duels’. Since mechanised threshing became the norm, most eras are abandoned, but a collaborative project in the village of Laroles has seen an era transformed into a performing space, Un Teatro Entre Todos – literally, ‘A Theatre Between All’. Regular music, theatre and other cultural events are held here – check the website for details of upcoming performances. O-Sel-Ling Buddhist Retreat, Las Alpujarras, Spain Perhaps it shouldn’t be a surprise to find a Buddhist meditation retreat tucked away in a remote corner of Las Alpujarras – the peace and clean mountain air contribute to a palpable sense of serenity. Founded in 1980, O-Sel-Ling nestles into the hillside above Capileira at 1,600m, with magnificent views. Meditation and intensive Buddhist philosophy courses are organised, and ten small houses are available for retreats. oseling.com Alhambra, Granada, Spain The ‘red castle’ that dominates the Granada skyline from its hilltop eyrie is among the most dramatic attractions in all of Spain. Though the first palace here was built in the 11th century, most of what you see today was constructed by the Nasrid emirs during the 13th and 14th centuries, with later additions by the Catholic monarchs after the Reconquista of Andalucia. There are four main areas of interest: the Alcazaba, the fortified garrison at the western end; the Generalife, the fabulous, serene gardens to the east of the main walls; the Palacio de Carlos V, an out-of-place Renaissance palace with a curious round interior; and the piece de resistance – the ornately decorated Palacio Nazaríes, the Nasrid Palace complex with its jaw-droppingly beautiful carved walls and ceilings. The Alhambra can get very busy; it’s essential to book in advance, especially for the timed entry tickets to the Palacio Nazaríes. Granada is about two hours’ drive from most parts of Las Alpujarras, either via the A44 at the western end, or across the Puerto de la Ragua pass over the Sierra Nevada north from Laroles. Castillo de La Calahorra, Granada, Spain Looking for all the world like a giant sandcastle looming over the plains east of Granada, the mighty fortress at La Calahorra is arguably the most unusual and dramatic castle in Spain. Its four bulbous corner towers and high, massive outer walls enclose an elegant Italian Renaissance interior, built between 1509 and 1512 for nobleman Rodrigo de Vivar y Mendoza on the site of a much older Moorish bastion. Today it’s privately owned and only available to visit on Wednesdays (usually 10am-1pm and 5-7pm or by appointment with caretaker Antonio Trivaldo, +34 958 67 70 98). It’s been used as a film set more than once – you might have spotted it during a surreal scene in the Spice Girls’ movie! La Calahorra is at the bottom (northern) end of the road leading down from the Puerto de la Ragua, the main pass over the Sierra Nevada. Guadix, Granada, Spain Now famous for its (still inhabited) troglodyte dwellings, Guadix was already old when the Romans settled here at the town they called Acci – indeed, Hadrian reputedly marvelled at the antiquity of Guadix – before the Moors established their own town of Wadi-Ash (‘River of Life’). About 1000 people still live in caves, and a visit to one of the cave museums provides fascinating insights into subterranean life. The 11th-century Islamic Alcazaba (castle, accessed from Calle Barradas) affords views over the cave quarter of the city, and the 16th-century sandstone baroque-Renaissance cathedral is also worth exploring. guadix.es Fiestas de Moros y Cristianos, Las Alpujarras, Spain Many towns and villages across Las Alpujarras stage a large-scale piece of street theatre each year, a kind of re-enactment of the battles between Moors and Christians after the reconquista when the Islamic emirs were driven from Andalucia. Troupes dress as either Moors or conquistadors, and the story is divided into two acts; in the morning (or first day), the Moors vanquish their Christian oppressors, while in the afternoon (or second day) the Christians defeat the rebel Moors and either kill them or force their conversion. As well as a dramatic (if not entirely accurate) reminder of the events of the 15th and 16th centuries, it depicts a clash of cultures that resonates today. Oh, and it’s a whopping spectacle, with fireworks and plenty of action. la-alpujarra.org Fiestas patronales, Las Alpujarras, Spain For centuries, village life was an almost unbroken succession of working days, weeks and months in the fields – so it’s not surprising that the hard-toiling men and women let rip with a vengeance once or twice a year in celebrating the patron saint of their village. Today you might enjoy feasting, processions, fireworks, plenty of music, special dishes and perhaps even trovos – improvised poetry ‘duels’ accompanied by lively music. Don’t expect much sleep: in many villages the noisy celebrations continue into the small hours and start again by mid-morning. casasblancas.es

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Las Alpujarras, here is a selection of places to find local food and wine served in cafes and restaurants in this little-known region of Spain. The contrast between coast and mountains is Las Alpujarras may have been a rural backwater for centuries, but its cuisine is far from poor – rustic, perhaps; plentiful and flavoursome, certainly. Some dishes and ingredients will be familiar from elsewhere in Spain, but the local culinary lexicon has a unique accent born of the ingredients and cooking techniques that proliferated in the region. The uppermost towns and villages of Las Alpujarras are renowned for their jamón serrano (mountain ham); the cool air and low humidity help produce some of Spain’s finest. There’s plentiful olive oil, red peppers and wonderful fruits – cherries, black figs and nispero (Japanese quince).. Almonds are common, adding a delicious milky flavour and texture to ajo blanco (chilled white almond and garlic soup). Though this area hasn’t historically been widely known for its wines, there are several top-notch producers, particularly in the lower eastern stretches of Las Alpujarras. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Las Alpujarras: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places to eat in Las Alpujarras Jamones Muñoz, Las Alpujarras, Spain It has to be said that a dried ham is a curious-looking thing – with its hoof and greyish-tinged side, it doesn’t have the most appetising appearance. Yet when sliced tissue-thin, a fine jamon can be among the most delectable morsels in Andalucia. The best are produced in the dry air of the high-altitude villages of the Sierra Nevada; Trevélez, the loftiest town in Las Alpujarras, is renowned for the output of its 20 or so producers. But in the village of Yegen is a small artisan dryer, Jamones Muñoz, where you can learn how the hams are prepared and dried, as well as enjoying a tasting session of the chorizo, longaniza, lomo and other delectables. There’s a cute shop selling crafts, jams, chocolates and other goodies, too. jamonesmunoz.com Veleta Wines / Dominio Buenavista, Las Alpujarras, Spain This organic vineyard produces an array of award-winning tipples, from rich cabernet sauvignons and temperanillos to fruity chardonnays and vijiriega grapes typical of Las Alpujarras. There are also fine rosés and sparkling cavas. Visit the winery to learn about the biodynamic production techniques and to taste the best vintages. vinosveleta.com Nestares Rincón, Las Alpujarras, Spain At 1352m, the Juan de Reyes estate is reputedly the highest in Europe. It produces a limited range of organic reds using tempranillo, merlot, syrah and petit verdot grapes, which you can taste at the Museum and Interpretation Centre. There’s also a good restaurant serving typical Alpujarran dishes such as plato alpujarreño (Alpujarran plate: potatoes with sausage and egg), eggs with morcilla (blood sausage) and ajo blanco – almond and garlic soup served with melon. nestaresrincon.com Bodega Fuente Victoria, Las Alpujarras, Spain Lying at around 1000m in the Láujar valley of the eastern Alpujarra, this winery has concentrated its efforts on producing three wines of high quality: the Sulayr white, with macabeo and viognier grapes; Cabal Tinto, 100% tempranillo; and Talento, a blend of syrah with a touch of cabernet sauvigon. Pre-booked group tours visit the vineyards, introduce the production methods and finish with a tasting. bodegafuentevictoria.es Restaurant Las Chimeneas, Las Alpujarras, Spain The kitchen in this charming little restaurant attached to the guesthouse of the same name is the domain of Soledad and Conchita, who rustle up a choice of dishes for dinner each evening. Vegetarians aren’t short-changed, with at least one tempting option for each of the three dinner courses – perhaps ajo blanco (chilled almond and garlic soup) followed by stuffed aubergines with goats cheese and rounded off with a sinful fig cake produced by baking supremo Andrew. There’s a well-chosen selection of Alpujarran wines to wash it all down, and a terrace with sweeping views south towards the Med. laschimeneas.com Restaurante La Fragua, Las Alpujarras, Spain The restaurant of the hotel of the same name focuses on typical dishes of Las Alpujarras and the wider Mediterranean. Try the oddly named blacksmith’s eggs (casserole of sausage, ham and egg, baked with cheese), Moorish lamb roasted with herbs, almond and dried fruit, or whole partridge cooked with onions, carrots, peppers, nuts and garlic. Also serves a great version of the classic Granadan dish of remojon, essentially a salad of oranges and salt cod. There’s an attractive terrace for dining al fresco on warm days. hotellafragua.com

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Las Alpujarras, here is a selection of small hotels, guesthouses and self-catering in this stunning region of Spain. The contrast between coast and mountains is striking: Las Alpujarras is a quite beautiful area, where even larger modern hotels tend to be constructed sensitively, often using traditional materials and methods and incorporating typically Alpujarran textiles and decor. It’s rare indeed to find a hotel or guesthouse that doesn’t have a welcoming terrace – and that’s because they are almost without exception perched on hillsides or above gorges affording spectacular views of the peaks of the Sierra Nevada or the valleys running down their southern slopes. We’ve pulled together a collection of appealing places to stay, from intimate B&Bs in restored historic houses to comfortable hotels with pools and restaurants serving the best Alpujarran fare. All are well placed for exploring the walking routes that link these whitewashed villages and venture up into the mountains, where you might well meet more ibex than people. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Las Alpujarras: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places to stay in Las Alpujarras Casa Las Chimeneas, Las Alpujarras, Spain Your hosts' enthusiasm and local knowledge really stands out - from walks and attractions to cookery courses, yoga retreats and wildlife walks, they'll ensure you get the most out of your trip, leaving you free to soak up the relaxing atmosphere. laschimeneas.com Hotel de Mecina Fondales, Las Alpujarras, Spain Vibrant, welcoming and full of bright flowers, this charming hotel is full of character and run by a father-and-son team - both called Victor. Delicious local food on the terrace, fantastic views and ample opportunities for hiking and activities. mecinafondales.com Hotel Rural Los Bérchules, Las Alpujarras, Spain You can expect a warm welcome at this cheery hotel in the stunning Las Alpujarras: the owners offer a wealth of knowledge about walking and activities in the local area. If you prefer a more relaxing getaway, try an art course or wine tasting holiday. hotelberchules.com Finca Los Llanos, Las Alpujarras, Spain Beautifully decorated in traditional Alpujarran style, with diverse authentic food. Relax on the terrace or in the pool and drink in stunning mountain views of the Sierra Nevada National Park from one of the highest towns on the Iberian peninsula. hotelfincalosllanos.com Hotel Restaurante La Fragua, Las Alpujarras, Spain Perched on a mountain slope in the highest village in Las Alpujarras, the two La Fragua hotels offer a choice of rustic charm or modern comforts, as well as spectacular views. The restaurant's colourful dishes celebrate the region's Moorish roots. hotellafragua.com Hotel Rural Almirez, Las Alpujarras, Spain This small family-run hotel prides itself on being 'your' hotel, and you'll certainly feel at home here. Tuck into traditional Alpujarran dishes lovingly prepared by 'grandma Teresa', and sip wines from the vineyard as you take in the stunning view. hotelalmirez.es Hotel Maravedí, Las Alpujarras, Spain Be amazed by breathtaking views both day and night - you can stargaze in the hotel's own astronomical observatory. Walking, outdoor activities, interesting places to visit... and on your return enjoy a refreshing dip in the natural swimming pool. fuentecapilerilla.com Los Arcos, Las Alpujarras, Spain This delightful B&B will soon feel like home thanks to welcoming hosts Jill and David. Wander around the lovely village of Valór or explore the great walking trails, and in the evening enjoy a drink on the roof terrace surrounded by panoramic views. Viña y Rosales, Las Alpujarras, Spain Tucked in the hillsides of Las Alpujarras, this hidden gem is a haven of relaxation. Nothing is too much trouble for the lovely hosts; it's the perfect place to rest and enjoy some wonderful food after a day outdoors in the spectacular surroundings. alpujarras.alojamiento.raya.org Casa Ana, Las Alpujarras, Spain The fabulous garden is a standout feature here - every room seems to open out to sunshine and vibrant flowers. The mountains beckon for walkers; the tranquil spot is also perfect for writing and wellbeing retreats, photography and cookery courses. casa-ana.com Las Terrazas de la Alpujarra, Las Alpujarras, Spain Choose from bright en-suite rooms or self-catering apartments, all overlooking the dramatic Barranco de Poqueira valley. Great for hiking, mountain-biking or horseriding, or the try more relaxing Buddhist retreat or a painting class. terrazasalpujarra.com Sierra y Mar, Las Alpujarras, Spain A haven for walkers and creative types, the tiny hamlet of Ferreirola is next to many hiking trails and has a painter, a guitar maker and a flamenco workshop. The rustic guesthouse is run by a Danish-Italian couple with a real love for the area. sierraymar.com Casa Rurale El Paraje, Las Alpujarras, Spain A lovely farmhouse with incredible panoramic mountain views from the pool and terrace. The knowledgeable hosts offer walking tours, bike hire and delicious home-cooked food and the friendly, welcoming atmosphere has guests returning year after year. elparaje.com

by Richard Hammond For the avid walker or part time enthusiast, it's not easy to find decent accommodation in many of the UK's wilder places. For those that don't mind sacrificing creature comforts, thankfully there is a well developed network of cabins that offer the vital requirements – a roof, four walls and a dry floor - courtesy of the Mountain Bothies Association (MBA). Since 1965, the MBA has been maintaining remote buildings that are in important positions along longer walking trails in Wales, Northern England and Scotland. The bothies are without running water or electricity, though many are equipped with fireplaces (although fuel is not always provided). The shelters are unlocked and anyone can use them so long as they respect the Bothy Code. The Association asks that they leave the buildings as they would hope to find them, perhaps with additional preserves and maybe some fuel to welcome future guests. The MBA encourages people to respect the surroundings, making sure that watercourses are not polluted and that firewood is never cut from living trees. No prior booking is needed to use the bothies. To ensure that there is room at the inn for any walker relying on the shelter of one of the bothies, groups of six or more are asked to look elsewhere. The bothies are not owned by the MBA but fostered by the association through the encouragement of their owners. Any work on the bothies is financed through membership subscriptions or generous donations and is carried out by volunteers. To find out more about the Mountain Bothy Association and the locations of their shelters, see the website of the Mountain Bothies Association.

Checking whether a business has been awarded an accredited certification scheme is one of the mechanisms that can help you figure out if it is walking the talk on its green initiatives. The most reliable schemes send a trained professional technician out to the business to assess its environmental performance, both in front of house and behind the scenes. Some focus on particular technical aspects, while others grade the business based on a whole gamut of environmental and social responsibility, including waste management, biodiversity conservation and human rights of workers’ conditions. Below are some well-established schemes you’re most likely to come across when looking for an eco-friendly holiday. Ecolabels and certifications schemes in the United Kingdom BREEAM (Building Research Establishment Environmental Assessment Method) evaluates all aspects of a building’s sustainability, from the initial siting and design, to how they are used in the context of local environmental, social and economic issues. It can be applied to individual buildings, such as the Gibson Hotel in the centre of Dublin, to multi-use developments, such as Kings Place on the Regents Canal in London, and to whole neighbourhoods, such as Tivoli GreenCity in Belgium (breeam.com). David Bellamy Blooming Marvellous Pledge for Nature builds on the David Bellamy Conservation Award (set up in 1997 by the British Holiday & Home Parks Association and the late botanist, presenter and environmental campaigner David Bellamy, which certified holiday parks in Britain) that requires parks to pledge to protect wildlife and to commit to starting at least one of five projects to help nature, from protecting at-risk species to boosting the wildlife value of their ponds and other fresh-water habitats (ukparks.com/bellamy-awards). Greener Camping Club is a symbol for low impact campsites. The scheme was started by four campsite owners who wanted to bring together a resource for campsites that ‘share a common theme of high quality, environment-friendly camping, in truly beautiful settings.’ They started the scheme in Pembrokeshire but are now expanding throughout Wales and England. There are now over 75 campsites, most are in West Wales but the number of sites in England is growing all the time (greenercamping.org). Green Tourism (green-tourism.com) is a sustainability grading scheme for the travel and hospitality industry that awards businesses bronze, silver and gold grades based on how green they perform in its audits. It also offers businesses practical technical advice on how to be greener. Examples of gold businesses are Fenham Farm – a B&B in Northumberland (fenhamfarm.co.uk), and the self-catering River Cabin at Trericket Mill in the Brecon Beacons (rivercabin.co.uk). Guardians of Grub is a certification scheme for businesses that track, measure, save and report on wasted food (guardiansofgrub.com). It’s run by the UK charity WRAP, which promotes and encourages sustainable resource use through product design, waste minimisation, reuse, recycling and reprocessing of waste materials (wrap.org.uk). The Environmental Quality Mark is a grading scheme focused on businesses in the Peak District and Staffordshire (eqm.org.uk). Global Sustainable Tourism Council The Global Sustainable Tourism Council (GSTC) is an independent accreditation scheme that has established international standards for sustainable tourism certification whose criteria are designed to be adapted to fit the context of local conditions and activities (gstcouncil.org). Ecolabels and certifications schemes in Europe General Alpine Pearls is a network of 19 alpine villages in Austria, Germany, Italy, Slovenia, and Switzerland, that promote sustainable transport combined with eco-friendly outdoor adventure (alpine-pearls.com). Bio Hotels certifies hotels for their commitment to sustainability (energy efficiency, recycling and plastic reduction), organic cuisine and ‘natural body care’ (biohotels.info). Blue Swallow (you may see it in German: ‘Blaue Schwalbe’) is awarded by a German sustainability agency Fairkehr (fairkehr means ‘fair return’). Since 1990, it has been singling out eco-friendly accommodation (many are family-run businesses) that provides wholefood, organic and regional fresh food (wirsindanderswo.de). EU Ecolabel is a European-wide environmental label managed by the EU Commission for a range of industries, from manufacturing to hospitality, including hotels and campsites. An example of a business with the EU Ecolabel is the Bamboo Eco Hostel in Turin, Italy (ec.europa.eu). Nature’s Best is a Swedish certification scheme for eco-minded tour operators. It assesses how the operators minimize their impact on the environment, support local economies and protect wildlife across the range of eco adventure activities in Sweden, from dog sledding and driving a reindeer sleigh with Sami herdsmen, to sea kayaking, white-water rafting, timber rafting, horse riding and wolf tracking (naturesbestsweden.com). Sustainable Travel Ireland (previously known as Ecotourism Ireland) is a certification scheme for accommodation and activity providers in Ireland (sustainabletravelireland.ie). TourCert is a corporate social responsibility system for hotels to increase their energy and environmental efficiency (tourcert.org). Country-specific France Ecogîte is managed by the well-established Gîtes de France, which manages over 70,000 owner-run B&Bs and self-catering cottages (gîtes). The Ecogîte label is given to about 400 owners who have demonstrated that part of their ‘way of life’ is based on preserving natural resources, using renewable energies and using natural, local and recyclable material with no harmful effects on health (gites-de-france.com). Flocon Vert has been awarded to mountain destinations, such as The Chamonix Mont-Blanc Valley and La Pierre Saint Martin, that have demonstrated their commitment to 20 sustainable criteria, including a year-round strategy for tourism, reduction in greenhouse gases, supporting local economies and protecting natural resources and ecology (flocon-vert.org). Gîtes Panda is a scheme set up by the World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF) for about 170 environmentally friendly gîtes that are near walking routes in protected areas, such as National Parks and Reserves. All are run by owners who care for the environment, provide binoculars, maps, guidebooks and educational nature guides to help visitors identify, protect and respect local plants and wildlife (gites-de-france.com/en/our-holidays/panda-wwf). Italy Fattorie del Panda is the Italian equivalent of Gîtes Panda and is awarded to small farmstays located in or near protected areas (wwf.it). Legambiente Turismo assesses accommodation, from hotels to B&Bs and agritourism establishments, on a range of criteria, including waste and energy resource management, sustainable transport, accessibility, provenance of food, enhancement of cultural heritage and environmental issues, as well as communication (legambienteturismo.it). Worldwide B Corp is a legally bound certification scheme for businesses in general (not just the travel industry) that vets companies for their social and environmental performance, public transparency and legal accountability to balance profit and purpose. The outdoors adventure company, TYF Adventure was the founding UK member of B Corp. Since then, the small group adventure operator Intrepid has gained B Corp membership, so too have accommodation specialists Sawday’s, Lovat Holiday Parks in southern England, adventure travel specialists Flooglebinder and Joro Experiences, and Pura Aventura, which organizes holidays in Spain, Portugal and Latin America. All have collaborated to form Travel by BCorp to share best practice (travelbybcorp.co.uk). Earth Check is an Australian-based worldwide certification scheme for the travel and tourism industry, benchmarking sustainability for businesses, from hotels, such as the boutique Memmo Alfama, Lisbon, to communities and destinations, such as the Snæfellsnes Peninsula in western Iceland (earthcheck.org). Green Globe is based in the USA but has local partners worldwide. It has a standard ‘certified member’ award and two further awards based on length of certification – gold is for those that have been certified for five years and platinum for those certified for ten years (greenglobe.com). Green Key is an international environmental ecolabel whose global office is run by the Foundation for Environmental Education (FEE) Copenhagen, Demark with nearly 3,000 members in over 55 countries, from boutique hotels to B&Bs, campsites and visitor attractions. Green Key is managed in Wales by the environmental charity Keep Wales Tidy. An example of a business with the Green Key Award is the Larkhill Yurt and Tipis in Carmarthenshire whose owners have been using wind, solar and water power to create electricity for 25 years (greenkey.global). Green Leaders is Tripadvisor’s badge that showcases the eco-friendly initiatives of B&Bs and hotels. It’s not an accredited scheme, but the idea is that businesses can list their green practices so you can see what they are doing (or at least claim they are doing), such as recycling, cooking with local and organic food and electric car charging. Those that have the Platinum badge are deemed to be the greenest. (tripadvisor.co.uk). ISO numbers are international standards for environmental reporting organized by an independent NGO that was established in 1947. Examples are ISO 14001 – a voluntary technical tool to help businesses reduce the environmental impact of their business, and ISO 21401 – for environmental management systems (iso.org). Travelife is operated by the UK Travel Association (ABTA) and operates in over 50 countries certifying hotels in the mainstream travel industry, so you’re most likely to see its logo in the travel brochures of the large tour operators, such as TUI, SAGA and Travelbag. In order to be certified, a hotel will have been evaluated by an independent auditor based on an on-site assessment of a series of criteria, from energy efficiency and conservation to human rights, cultural impacts and animal welfare. Top performing properties are awarded Travelife Gold Certification, which is valid for two years (travelife.info). Blue Flag is a 30-year-old environmental certification scheme awarded to beaches, marinas and (more recently) boat operators in Europe, Africa, New Zealand, Canada and the Caribbean, which meet a series of stringent environmental, educational, safety and accessibility criteria. Spain has the most awarded sites, followed by France, Turkey, Greece, Italy and Portugal. Beaches in the UK that have been awarded Blue Flag status include New Quay Harbour in Cardigan and Whitby West Cliff in Yorkshire. Examples of European boat operators that have the Blue Flag are Cabrera Sea Fun, Majorca, and Scorpion Yachting in Greece (blueflag.global). == This is an edited extract from The Green Traveller, published by Pavilion (£18.99).