As we launch our Green Traveller's Guide to West Macedonia and Thessaloniki, Sarah Baxter selects a range of outdoor adventure activities in this beautiful part of northern Greece. Photos: Richard Hammond Horseriding, Sklithro, Florina Nikos Voglidis has been riding horses in the lush countryside around Sklithro since he was a boy. Now, with his father Dimitris, he runs Artemis Tours, and enables visitors to explore the region in the saddle too. The family keeps a herd of well-behaved Pindos horses at their rural Swiss-chalet-like base camp. From here you can head out on guided hacks into the surrounding meadows and hills; these range from 30 minutes to five hours to overnight adventures, and can be tailored to all levels. Rides will likely include crossing streams, clopping through villages, galloping though wildflower fields and eating fresh damsons straight from the tree. Artemis offers other activities too, including excellent guided hikes through the beech and oak forests to hunt for mushrooms and herbs, gentle canoe trips on Lake Zazari and mountain-bike rides on lakeside and forest trails. artemisoe.gr Photos: Richard Hammond Truffle hunting, Prespa National Park Finding precious truffles is pretty easy in Prespa National Park – if you know where to go. And if you have an expertly trained dog at your side. Those with neither expertise nor hound should head out with Nikos Tsilis. Nikos and the boundlessly enthusiastic Avra make great company for foraging walks in the oak, beech and ancient juniper forests. The precise locations will vary depending on time and season – whether you’re searching for black summer truffles or the more greatly prized white winter variety, or perhaps wild mushrooms too. Nikos is young and self-taught but has accrued a wealth of knowledge about these pungent fruiting fungi; he’s even discovered a few new species. He’s also started making his own products including truffle butter, truffle oil, and, his next project, truffle honey. With luck, he may give you a truffle to take away. instagram.com/nick_tsilis Photos: Richard Hammond Birdwatching, Prespa National Park More than 275 bird species have been recorded in Prespa National Park, including the largest colony of Dalmatian pelicans in the world. To help visitors spot as many as possible, six walking trails have been created, which open up access to the best birding sites. For example, Trail 1, a 12km loop from Laimos, gives a great all-round intro to Prespa, passing through a mix of forest, agricultural and wetland habitats – woodpeckers, pelicans and sparrowhawks are all commonly seen. Alternatively, 5km-long Trail 3 takes in Agios Ahilios island and Krina Hill, the latter affording a great vantage over one of the best wetland areas where you might see pelicans, several types of heron, pygmy cormorants and glossy ibises; visit in the late afternoon, when the angle of the sun is better. Information leaflets can be picked up from the visitor centre in Agios Germanos. spp.gr Photo: Richard Hammond Cycling, Prespa National Park A trio of cycling routes has been designed to encourage visitors to get out of their cars and explore Prespa on two wheels. All three are on the flatter, eastern side of the park, so none are too tough. The 36km loop from Laimos to lakeside Mikrolimni passes small villages, cuts through farmland and skirts Kale Hill to reach the water’s edge, with a short detour to the ruins of 12th-century Agia Anna church. The 10km Lakeside Forest Trail also starts from Laimos and follows the lush Agios Germanos River to its mouth, through stands of poplar, willow and silver birch trees. The 12km Beech Forest Trail, which weaves from Agios Germanos up around the forested lower slopes of Mount Varnous is a little more challenging but offers magnificent views. Bikes can be hired from Ecotourismo, based in Laimos. Download the Prespa Trails app for details. ecotourismo.gr Photos: Richard Hammond Hiking, Prespa National Park There are ten hiking trails, ranging in length from 4.5km to 12km, spidering across the park. These open up areas that are otherwise impossible to reach. Plus the slow, quiet nature of walking makes wildlife sightings more likely – on foot, you might come across crawling tortoises, grazing roe deer, the prints and scat of bears and numerous species of birds. Top picks include the route from Psarades to Cape Roti (5km), which runs from the bay and through the forest to a panoramic lookout over Great Prespa Lake; you can also make a short, steep diversion to the 13th-century Metamorphosis Hermitage. Or take the trail from Mikrolimni (10km), following the old pack-horse route to the abandoned village of Kranies, one of the least-visited spots in the park. Trail leaflets and maps are available from the Visitor Centre in Agios Germanos. spp.gr Hiking & Cycling the Paths of Peace, Florina Backed by the German-Greek Fund for the Future, the Paths of Peace project was inaugurated in 2017 to support slow, quality tourism in a region that suffered at the hands of the Germans during the Second World War. There are two waymarked circuits, both designed to take in the rich woodland, dramatic viewpoints, historic sites, lakeshores, riverbanks, churches and cafes in and around the settlements of Lechovo, Asprogeia, Nymfaio, Agrapidia, Sklithro and Limnochori. The 42km route is for hikers, using a mix of forest trails, shepherds’ tracks, cobbled paths and small lanes; there are some steep ups and downs but it’s graded moderate overall, and doable over three or four days. The other route is for cyclists, using quiet country roads; measuring 73km, with a total of 2,394m of ascent, it’s advisable to complete it over two days. Download the free app for information. pathsofpeace.gr Kayaking, Mikrolimni, Prespa National Park There’s nothing official about the kayaking offered at Ta Psaradikia tavern in Mikrolimni, but co-owner Kiriakos is happy to lend out his sit-on kayaks for free in exchange for visitors picking up any rubbish they find out on the lake. facebook.com/groups/psaradika Mountain biking, Prespa National Park Ecotourismo runs guided mountain-biking trips across the remoter western side of the park. Novices could try the 10km route from Pyli, along the banks of Great Prespa, to Psarades. More challenging is a 100km circular via the mountains of Varnoundas, Vici and Triklarios and passing through 16 mostly abandoned villages. ecotourismo.gr Photo: Richard Hammond Hiking, Nymfaio, Florina Six waymarked walking trails have been created in the countryside around Nymfaio, which take between 30 minutes and five hours to complete. An English-language guidebook (called Six Antidotes to Technology) describes the routes in colourful detail. Buy a copy from the Arcturos sanctuary. arcturos.gr Boating, Prespa National Park Taking a boat trip on Great Prespa Lake is the best way to see some of the park’s birdlife up-close – from flocks of pelicans to elegant egrets, fishing herons and spread-eagled cormorants drying their wings. It’s also the only way to access some of the fascinating cave-churches built into the lakeside cliffs. Germanos at the Syntrofia Tavern runs excursions that leave from the little marina in Psarades and head out past the gnarled rocks (where he’ll point out ancient frescos), around Cape Roti and into the main part of the lake, with stops to disembark and climb up to the impressive 14th-century Hermitage of Panagia Eleoussa. It’s possible to book a sunset trip. Alternatively, join Germanos and this crew on an early-morning fishing trip to learn about local traditions and get hands on with the hard work. syntrofia-prespes.gr Paragliding, Prespa National Park For a unique view of the lakes, and a chance to soar with the pelicans, take a paraglide flight. No experience is necessary – you’ll be strapped into a two-seater rig with an experienced pilot. Ecotourismo, based in Laimos, runs trips. ecotourismo.gr Wildlife and cultural walks, Prespa National Park Prespa Lakes Wildlife & Culture Stories offers various excursions that get to the heart of the park, including guided nature hikes, gastronomy days, foraging walks and tours that delve into the complicated history of this crossroads of countries. en.wildlifeandculture.com == The Google map below shows the location and details of all the places to stay, eat, nearby attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to West Macedonia and Thessaloniki: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities For more information, including nearby places to eat, places of interest and local outdoor activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to West Macedonia and Thessaloniki

As we launch our Green Traveller's Guide to East Macedonia and Thrace, Sarah Baxter selects a range of characterful places to stay in this beautiful part of northern Greece. Places to stay in East Macedonia and Thrace Anthemion House, Kavala Built in the 1920s, this three-story neoclassical townhouse, tucked beneath the arches of the town’s enormous aqueduct, once belonged to a Jewish tobacco merchant. Since 2018 it has been the Anthemion, the dream project of two childhood friends who’ve infused this elegant building with their passion for design, hospitality and sustainability while retaining its character. There are seven rooms, slotted into the house’s original layout, ranging from smart doubles to spacious suites with kitchenettes and balconies – Room 5 sneaks an aqueduct view. The aim is to make guests feel calm and refreshed: think soothing colours, organic products in the stylish bathrooms, anatomic mattresses, and bedside snake plants, which emit oxygen at night and are said to improve sleep. Breakfast is a cornucopia of treats from a local bakery, plus creamy Greek yoghurt, seasonal fruits and homemade jams, served downstairs or in-room – good fuel for exploring Kavala by bike, which are free to borrow. anthemionhouse.com Hotel Koukouli, Soufli Hotel Koukouli is woven right into the history of Soufli. Built in 1850, this handsome old red-shuttered stone-and-brick building functioned as a koukoulospito (cocoon house), where the cocoons that were so central to Soufli’s once-thriving silk industry were stored. These days it’s been transformed into a characterful retreat, where Tolis Alexoudis and his family welcome you – possibly with a glass of tsipouro or two – to rest up and explore the largely undiscovered village and surrounding area. There’s a lovely garden with chairs and tables and a large ground-floor cafe-lounge, where you can sink into the sofas and, each morning, tuck info breakfasts of bread, fresh-baked pies, homemade jams, and honey from local hives. Upstairs, across the two upper high-ceilinged storeys (which once housed the silkworm beds), there are now 11 guest rooms, simply decorated, with wooden floors, air-con and basic kitchenettes. koukoulihotel.gr 31 Doors Hotel, Alexandroupoli A good night’s sleep is virtually guaranteed at 31 Doors. This crisp, clean, modern hotel, opened in 2019 in the port city of Alexandroupolis, doubles up as a store for COCO-MAT, which designs quality, hypoallergenic bedding handmade in northern Greece from all-natural materials. Every room at 31 Doors is equipped with comfy COCO-MAT bed systems, sleep products, furniture, linens, and pillows. The rooms also have restful cool-toned palettes, hushed air-con, powerful showers, and big, wide windows; the doubles and suites at the back are impressively quiet; those at the front face the noisier road but have balconies with views to the sea and the island of Samothraki beyond. A sizeable breakfast buffet – hot options, baked goodies – is served in the basement. The lively waterfront and taverna-lined side streets of central Alexandroupolis are only a five-minute walk away. 31doorshotel.com Elisso Xenia Hotel, Xanthi The Elisso Xenia straddles the ‘border’ in Xanthi. This modern hotel looks over the new town, home to the University of Thrace and full of buzzing bars and tavernas. But step into the streets behind and you’re in the heart of old Xanthi, an atmospheric hillside warren of neoclassical mansions and stone houses lining tight-packed streets. The hotel itself is sleek and contemporary: rooms – 20 doubles plus two spacious suites – have all the expected mod-cons, sizeable balconies, king-size beds with quality mattresses and neat bathrooms with aromatic toiletries, fluffy towels, and robes. A basic breakfast is served downstairs in the glass-sided café, while the hotel’s funky wine bar, Apothiki (Warehouse), serves up a seasonal menu of fresh, local-sourced produce, alongside a decent choice of Thracian wines. hotelelisso.gr Apolithomeno Dasos Villas, Lefkimi A handful of wood-and-stone cottages, each sleeping up to six, sit at the foot of the Rhodope mountains, within Dadia-Lefkimi-Soufli National Park and right by the Petrified Forest – trails lead to the 40-million-year-old fossilised trees from the door. Relax in the lounge, cook in the kitchen or fire up the barbecue, then kick back in the rocking chairs on the porch. apolithomenodasos.com Forest Inn Ecotourism Hotel, Dadia This simple guesthouse in Dadia-Lefkimi-Soufli National Park is a retreat from the modern world. There are 20 rooms, with either garden or mountain views, all fully equipped with modern comforts. There’s also a cafe-bar serving traditional Greek breakfasts and evening pizzas, and an event hall hosting music, art workshops and more. forestinn.eu Castello Kavala, Kavala Castello Kavala is in a prime location for exploring the city. There’s a touch of class, both to the attentive service and to each of the ten guest rooms, which are smartly furnished and well-equipped, with private balconies overlooking the centre and the old town. castellokavala.gr/index.php/en Mansion To Archontiko, Stavroupoli This mansion in the remote village of Stavroupoli feels like staying in a family home. There are just three bedrooms, all traditionally furnished but with mod-cons too – including WiFi and Jacuzzis – and private sun decks. Breakfast is served in the tree-flanked stone courtyard, with views of the Nestos River. toarchontiko.gr == The google map below shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to East Macedonia and Thrace: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities

As we launch our Green Traveller's Guide to East Macedonia and Thrace, Sarah Baxter selects a range of places to eat and buy quality local, seasonal food in this beautiful part of northern Greece. Meltemi, Kavala The meltemi is the north-westerly wind that blows during the summer in the eastern Mediterranean. It’s an apt name for this family-run taverna, which sits on Kavala’s small Perigiali harbour and beach, just to the east of the centre, tickled by the sea breeze. In the summer the large outdoor terrace, right by the water’s edge, is the place to be; come winter, retreat to the cosy restaurant, which is warmed by an open fire and bonhomie, with live Greek music played on Friday and Saturday nights. The dishes on offer – all generous portions – are a mix. Start with appetisers such as unctuous tzatziki, saganaki (fried cheese) and crisp courgette fritters. Then move on to meat (maybe zesty loukaniko sausage flavoured with orange or spicy soutzoukakia meatballs) and super-fresh seafood (spatchcocked sardines, grilled shrimp, red mullet or whatever is in season), washed down with local tsipouro, ouzo or wine. tavernameltemi.com Chrisanthidis Delights, Kavala Mention ‘kourabie’ to anyone from East Macedonia – indeed, to anyone from Greece – and they may come over misty-eyed. These buttery, crescent-shaped biscuits, traditionally made with whole almonds and liberally dusted with icing sugar, became a Christmas classic when the Chrisanthidis family started baking them in 1924. Now, people crave them year-round, so the company has evolved in the past few decades, upscaling production not only of the original kourabie but numerous flavour variations too, from chocolate to caramel, honey to praline. The main bakery is in Nea Karvali, 10km east of Kavala, but there are Chrisanthidis outlets in the city. Visit the bright shop-cafe at Venizelou & Dagkli St Corner, where you can buy packaged biscuits, sweet tsoureki (Easter bread) and pretty pastries to takeaway or order pies, cakes and other snacks to eat at the pavement tables outside. chrisanthidis.gr/en/products/delights Το Oneipo, Soufli “Made with love and passion, we created Το Oneipo – ‘Dream’ – because we were looking for a place to house our dreams.” So say the couple behind this lovely little spot in the silk-making village of Soufli. Because it’s not only a restaurant-cafe but also a hub for live music, performed by both the talented owners and any patrons who feel like bringing along their bouzouki and belting out a tune. Inside, the walls are hung with old photos of Greek musicians but on summer evenings the back terrace, looking over Soufli’s seldom-used railway tracks, is the place to be. The food is rustic, homecooked, generous and good value, with plenty of East Macedonian specialities including thick babos sausage and bligouri (made with nutty bulgar wheat) served alongside classic souvlaki, well-sauced meatballs and big hunks of bread to dip in garlicky tzatziki and melitzanosalata (aubergine dip). facebook.com/oneirosoufli Zourafa, Alexandroupoli With its tables spilling out into flower-filled and fairylight-strung Platia Kyprou square, Zourafa is the connoisseur’s Alexandroupoli choice. The port city’s seafront promenade can be rammed and raucous on hot summer nights, but here, just one block back, there’s a calmer, more laidback feel. The food is reliably good too. The catch of the day, fresh from the Samthraki-Aegean Sea, sits on ice in a cabinet out front if you want to pick your own – friendly staff are on hand to help. Other top choices include the house Zourafa salad (a zingy mix of rocket, lettuce, figs, pomegranate, raisins and parmesan cheese), traditional trahanoto pasta made with Greek yoghurt and served with fresh shrimps, and tangy feta baked in a crust of sesame seeds and drizzled with herb-infused honey. restaurant-67557.business.site Eliá, Xanthi There is a fresh-faced, contemporary and artistic edge at Restaurant Eliá. The decor – minimalist white with dashes of green, and grey-white marble tabletops spreading onto the pavement outside – feels modern and crisp, while the staff are young, bright and friendly. But it’s the innovative menu that really pops. A savoury cheesecake with cream cheese, cherry tomatoes, edible flowers and herb oil sitting on a biscuity base of carob nuts, is almost too pretty to eat. Almost. Accompany this with other creative, flavoursome dishes: first-rate paella, pappardelle with shrimps, squid, mussels, octopus and a cheeky dash of ouzo in the sauce or traditional Thracian horseshoe-shaped soutzouki beef sausage, spiced with black pepper and cumin. Wash it all down with a decent list of Greek wines – perhaps a new-generation retsina from nearby Domaine Apostolidi, made with a blend of assyrtiko and malagouzia grapes. facebook.com/elia.xanthi Krokodeilos, Kavala This small family tavern, central yet tucked away, with a view of the aqueduct, serves some of the best grilled fish in town. The menu is limited but what they do, they do well – and for a good price. Address: Amerikanikou Erithrou Stavrou 2, Kavala To Koutoukaki, Kavala There’s an appealing atmosphere about this traditional, friendly, no-frills taverna in the heart of the old town. Fat steaks, well-charred souvlaki, fish fresh from the sea, all served simply and bountifully with good olive oil and huge bowls of salad. Address: 29 Poulidou Theodorou, Kavala Evangelou Pastries, Kavala Charis Evangelou’s award-winning pastry shop is famous for its bespoke profiteroles – choose from eight different types of chocolate and over 50 toppings to make them exactly to your taste, served with one of his 20-plus flavours of handmade ice cream. facebook.com/evangelou Aparto Bistro Cafe, Kavala This classic European-style bistro, overlooking the castle and the port, has elegant decor, relaxing music and a welcoming vibe. Hangout here all day: come for morning breakfast, coffee and cakes, light snacks and lunches, a range of afternoon teas or cool evening cocktails. en-gb.facebook.com/apartoBistro Apiko, Kavala With its blue-and-white palette and wide windows looking out onto the port, this is a charming spot to eat seafood (or meat or vegan) with sea views. The chefs use the best fish caught daily, which is expertly cooked and served with quality tsipouro and wine, mostly from local producers. apiko.gr Gorgones & Magkes, Kavala Nestled between the aqueduct and the port, down one of the maze of narrow lanes cloaked with the awnings of competing tavernas, you’ll find Gorgones & Magkes. Stop here for the lively vibe, great service, quality tsipouro and ouzo, and good-value meze. facebook.com/gorgoneskmagkes Omen Deli & Wine, Alexandroupoli Located on one of the city’s busiest streets, this hip space is a hub of top local and international flavours. There’s an impressive cellar stocked with Greek wines and microbrews. There are also cheeses, deli meats, honey, olives and more from small producers. Try before you buy in the little courtyard. facebook.com/omendeliandwines Kelesenlis, Serres Find this grocery shop en route between Kavala and Thessaloniki. Its shelves are stacked with quality products, all from small local producers, including cold meats from Lake Kerkini, peanut butter from Ammoudia Serres, award-winning aged tsipouro and high-grade balsamic vinegar made of Serres aronia berries. Address: 14 Mela Pavlou Street, Serres Siris Microbrewery, Serres This modern microbrewery produces quality, non-pasteurised beers, made with love and full of the flavours of northern Greece. Try the strong, herb-fragrant Voreia IPA, the delicately bitter Voreia Pilsner or the award-winning Voreia Smoked Amber Ale. The brewery is open Monday-Friday; staff are happy to show visitors around. sirisbrewery.gr Sardeladiko, Keramoti Sardeladiko is arguably the best place to eat in the seaside resort of Keramoti. Pull up a table at this unpretentious spot while you’re waiting for the ferry to Thassos; service is quick, portions are big and the fried and grilled fish – sardines, monkfish, sole, shrimp – delicious. Address: 64011 Keramoti == Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to East Macedonia and Thrace: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities

As we launch our Green Traveller's Guide to East Macedonia and Thrace, Sarah Baxter selects a range of outdoor adventure activities in this beautiful part of northern Greece. Kayaking, Nestos Gorge The River Nestos runs 230km from Bulgaria’s Rila Mountains into the Aegean Sea. But en route it must squeeze through the high-sided crags of the Nestos Gorge, a dramatic, wildlife-rich landscape best experienced by kayak. Local adventure operator Riverland, based in the village of Toxotes, offers a leisurely day-trip through the rocky defile that’s suitable for beginners. This 22km paddle runs from the characterful little town of Stavroupoli to Galani (near Toxotes); along the route there are plenty of opportunities for spotting wildlife – the region is a refuge for fauna and flora – as well as relaxing on river isles, enjoying a picnic lunch and jumping in for cooling dips. Those shorter on time could opt for 90-minute trip at the end of the Nestos Narrows, a short-but-sweet paddle passing rock caves and sandy shores, and navigating lush channels thick with dragonflies. riverland.gr Birdwatching & boating, Evros Delta There’s no better way to experience the serenity and biodiversity of the protected Evros Delta wetlands than on a boat trip with Christos Paschalakis. He’s been running Delta Evros Explorer here, at the easternmost reaches of Greece, for many years and knows exactly how to navigate the area’s shifting channels as well as when and where to find its most charismatic species – from Dalmatian pelicans, cormorants and herons to huge white-tailed eagles and hundred-strong flocks of blushing flamingos. His safe, modern, shallow-hulled vessels are open-sided for good viewing but have roof canopies for shelter from the sun and rain. Professional tour guides can be enlisted to come on board to help point out the astonishing array of flora and fauna, while specialist fishing and photography trips can also be arranged. delta-evros.gr Photos: Richard Hammond Mud-bathing, Krinides, near Kavala There are no complicated treatments or high price tags at the Krinides Health & Wellness Centre. The ‘spa’ here has been tens of thousands of years in the making, using only the natural thermal springs and therapeutic clay to cure all manner of ailments – they are said to treat everything from skin diseases to gynaecological disorders and rheumatism. The modern stone-built bathhouses sit in peaceful landscaped parkland close to Ancient Philippi. Visitors must strip (disposable underwear can be provided), shower and then enter the mud pools; there’s one for men and one for women. It’s advised to stay submerged for around 25 minutes to let the mud work its magic before washing it off with the thermal water. There’s also a bar-tavern on site, if you fancy a post-wallow drink. The mud baths are open June to mid-October. Entrance costs just €6. pilotherapia.gr Hiking, Nestos-Rodopi Trail Humans have been walking through the Rhodope mountains for centuries. More recently, some of those old paths have been renovated, waymarked and combined to form the Nestos-Rodopi Trail. Created as part of the Greek Paths of Culture Project, and designated a Leading Quality Trail of Europe by the European Ramblers Association, the trail comprises six sections totalling 70km, beginning in the heart of Xanthi and finishing in the village of Erymanthos. It includes a spur along the Nestos Gorge, utilising the trail cut into the cliffs in the 19th-century by workers building the railway; at the time of writing, the railway is out of action, though its 30 tunnels can still be seen. Beyond the gorge, the trail winds northwards via picturesque Stavroupoli, the ruins of Kalo Nero, Livaditis waterfall, pine and oak forest and handsome arched stone bridges. monopatiapolitismou.gr; era-ewv-ferp.org/lqt City walking tours, Kavala Kavala is a fascinating city. Learn more about its ancient history, 19th-century tobacco boom and modern-day fortunes on a walk around with multi-lingual guide Marianna Christoforou, who also leads tours to nearby sites. touristguides-ngreece.gr/en/meli-en/hristoforou-marianna Sailing , Avdera Set off across the sparkling Aegean with Avdiros Sailing. Its fleet of quality sailing boats is based at the historic port of Avdera, in easy reach of the North Aegean islands such as Thassos and Samothrace. Join a day cruise or rent a boat with or without a skipper. avdiros-sailing.gr Sea kayaking, Thassos Head offshore with Thassos Kayak Club for day and half-day guided paddles around the island. There are options around the coast; one of the best routes is from Skala Marion to Tryipiti (four hours), via sandy bays, white-pebble beaches, high rocks and sea caves. facebook.com/thassoskayak Nestos Adventure Park, Galani At their hub at Galani, on the banks of the Nestos, Riverland runs a range of adventure activities, including archery lessons, two 200m-long zip-wires and climbing on a six-metre-high outdoor wall. Kit is high standard. Perfect for kids. riverland.gr Canoeing, Stavroupoli Another option for idling through the Nestos Gorge is to travel by canoe. Based in Stavroupoli, Nero Alternative Route uses dugouts to navigate a 20km stretch of the river, led by professional guides. Ideal for families and slow-paced exploring. nestosrodopi.gr 4WD touring, Ahlada Plateau Riverland’s 4WD tours give a great overview of the region. Trips leave from Toxotes and wind up the mountain road overlooking the plain of Xanthi to reach the wild Ahlada plateau; highlights include views into the Nestos Gorge, exploring the ruins of abandoned hillside villages and spotting herds of wild horses. riverland.gr == The google map below shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to East Macedonia and Thrace Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities

As we launch our Green Traveller's Guide to East Macedonia and Thrace, Sarah Baxter selects a range of visitor attractions and other places of interest in this beautiful part of northern Greece. St Lydia’s Baptistery, near Kavala The beautiful riverside baptistery here only dates to the 1970s but is built on the site where the Apostle Paul baptised Lydia of Thyatira, making her the first Christian woman in Europe. The gardens are shady and peaceful, while the inside of the church dazzles with exquisite mosaics. visitkavala.gr/en/sightseeing/iero-proskinima-baptistirio-agias-lidias-filippisias Silk Museum, Soufli Soufli is inseparable from silk. The industry boomed here in the 19th century and put this small Thracian village on the map. Now that tourism is starting to increase – not least since Soufli was selected as one of the world’s Best Tourism Villages by the UNWTO in 2021 – a ‘silk route’ has been established here. Its smart centrepiece is the Piraeus Silk Museum. Housed in a neoclassical mansion (dating to 1883) and traditional two-storey ‘cocoon house’ that once belonged to Dr Konstantinos Kourtidis, this slick, well-presented space explains the backstory of Soufli’s booming silk production through info boards, old photos and documents. It also gives a primer on the lifecycle of the Bombyx mori – the hard-working larvae that spin the precious thread – via interesting videos and displays of old silk worm beds, spinning machines, dyes and looms. piop.gr/en/diktuo-mouseiwn/Mouseio-Metaxis Dadia-Lefkimi-Soufli Forest National Park Encompassing a tree-cloaked swathe of the southeastern Rhodope Mountains, this national park is one of the most important havens for raptors in Europe. With luck, it’s possible to see 36 of the continent’s 38 species of diurnal birds of prey here, from peregrine falcons and imperial eagles to griffon and Egyptian vultures, and the only breeding population of black vultures in the Balkans. The visitor centre, near Dadia village, is the best place to start; the interpretation is excellent with lots of informative, interactive displays. From here, forest trails lead into the park’s core protected zone up to either the Byzantine ruins on Gibrena Peak or to the observation hide – both vantages offer a chance to spot numerous raptors (best early, when it’s cool) as well as roe deer, wildflowers and many other bird species, from woodpeckers to black storks. The wider park can be explored by car, bike or on foot. dadia-np.gr Petrified Forest, Lefkimi The Petrified Forest of Lefkimi, within the Dadia-Lefkimi-Soufli Forest National Park, is one of the best places in the world to see extremely old trees. Regarded as unique due to its rareness, age and size, the fossilised flora that’s been discovered here dates back 40 million years; finds include petrified cinnamon and palm leaves, ancient oak trunks, the remains of fish and corals, and numerous shark teeth. At the small Fossil Information Centre you can learn more about the region’s rich geology and see some of these treasures on display, including a rare, high-quality fossil of a plant that’s the ancestral form of the modern grape. Two short, marked trails lead from the centre into the surrounding woodland, where you can see several half-exposed and weather-worn petrified trees still laying on the forest floor. apolithomenodasos.com/en/the-fossil-forest-of-lefkimi Evros Delta National Park The Evros River springs from Bulgaria’s Rila Mountains and runs along the Turkey-Greece border before emptying into the Aegean, forming a wide, wonderful delta that’s one of the most important wetland areas in Europe. Hundreds of thousands of birds, of over 300 species, find refuge here, some year-round, some migrating. There’s always something to see although winter is an especially abundant time when you might spot huge flocks of white-fronted and greylag geese as well as a flamboyance of flamingos. Also look out for elegant great white egrets and herons, hen and marsh harriers, osprey and enormous white-tailed eagles. The main visitor centre is in Loutra Traianoupolis; from here you can drive out amid the ever-shifting landscape of lagoons, swamps, marsh and reed beds, and book boat tours that navigate the narrow channels and head out to the open water to see the birds close up. https://www.evros-delta.gr Photos: Richard Hammond Xanthi historic district, Xanthi The old town of Xanthi is a half-crumbling, hill-tumbling maze – a great place for getting semi-lost and soaking up the cultural mix of this historic settlement at the meeting point of European, Black Sea, Mediterranean and Asian cultures. A walking route, marked with brown information plaques, weaves via the most important buildings. Follow the trail past the handsome Memet Pasha house, the interesting ironwork of the Ladas Mansion, the old Akathistos Hymn basilica, the Achrian Mosque (once the heart of a thriving Muslim neighbourhood), the Christos Pavlidis art gallery (housed in one of Xanthi’s oldest buildings) and the fine-but-faded facade of the Kougioumtzoglou-Kaloudi Mansion. As well as cultural landmarks, there are numerous tavernas, cafes and craft shops to tempt a stop, while Plateia Emporiou, the main square, hosts a lively market every Saturday morning where you can buy everything from local fruit to cheap clothes and live snails. visitgreece.gr/mainland/thrace/xanthi Archaeological Site of Philippi, near Kavala First founded in 356 BC by the Macedonian King Philip II, later developed by the Romans and visited by Paul, the apostle who brought Christianity to the continent, the city of Philippi lies at the foot of a hill on the Via Egnatia, the ancient trade route that linked Europe and Asia. What remains is impressive: visit the Archaeological Museum of Philippi to learn more about the history and view finds from the site, such as sculptures, coins, jewellery and mosaics, then head to the site itself. You can wander amid the old walls and gates, the remnants of the Forum, the Roman cistern where Paul was imprisoned, the large temple complex and the early basilicas, dating to the fifth century. Most impressive is the large amphitheatre, built by Philip, which still hosts performances as part of Kavala’s annual Philippi Festival (July to August). visitkavala.gr/en/sightseeing/arxaiologikos-xoros-filippon Kavala Fort, Kavala For the best views in Kavala, head to the city’s hilltop fortress. This commanding bastion at the highest point of the city’s Panagia peninsula was built from local granite in the early 15th century, atop the remains of the older Byzantine Acropolis of Christoupolis. Twisting up between the atmospherically dilapidated buildings of Kavala’s old town to get there is part of the fun. Once inside the walls of the fortress itself you can see the remains of the old guardhouse, arsenal, food stores and cistern; there’s also a little cafe and an open-air theatre that hosts frequent events and performances. But best is the central circular tower – climb the narrow, winding, uneven steps up to the top to look out over the city’s roofs to the mountains behind and Thassos island looming out to sea ahead. castle-kavala.gr Art of Silk Museum, Soufli Another stop on Soufli’s ‘silk route’, this museum and shop of the Tsiakiris Silkworks is housed in a fine neoclassical building. Exhibits run visitors through all stages of silk production from sericulture to weaving, and include vintage looms and working threading machines. silkmuseum.gr Gnafala Folk Art Museum, Soufli Run by the Bourouliti family, Gnafala is part textiles shop, part cultural museum. The owners have collected an array of items that tell the story of life in this outpost of Greece, from traditional costumes and wedding dresses to old photographs and farming equipment. A fascinating insight. gnafala.blogspot.com Givre Silk Factory, Soufli As of mid-2022, the renovation of this early-20th-century silk factory complex was still in progress. It comprises a vast three-story cocoon house, 28m-high chimney, outbuildings and vast spinning mill where the old machines can still be seen. When finished it will provide an in-depth insight into the industrial process and an important social commentary. There will be a bar and workshops too. soufli.gr Monastery of St Nicholas, Lake Vistonida, Evros Delta Floating near the village of Porto Lagos, the Monastery of St Nicholas is built on two islets in bird-busy Lake Vistonida. Walk across the boardwalk to its white-washed chapel to see devout monks and Dalmatian pelicans. evros-delta.gr/en/the-management-body/information-center Poros Stork village, Evros Delta In 2016 the EuroNatur Foundation declared Poros an official European Stork Village due to its commitment to protect storks and their habitats. In season, the birds can be seen nesting atop telegraph poles along the main road; an annual Stork Festival, held in early June, celebrates the return of the migratory birds. euronatur.org/en/what-we-do/news/european-stork-village-2016-designated Meligeysis Honey Farm, Komnina Venture into the mountains behind Xanthi to find the tiny village of Komnina and the Meligeysis Honey Farm. The owners will show you around, talk about their bees and ply you with sweet treats; you can also buy a range of natural products, from sweet spreads to skin care creams. meligeysis.gr Domaine Apostolidi, near Xanthi The Apostolidis have been making wine since the 1950s but, in the past two decades, the vineyard has transformed from amateur family business to start-of-the-art domaine, with sustainable and biodynamic cultivation and production innovations leading to high-quality wines made using traditional Greek grapes. domaineapostolidi.gr == The google map below shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to East Macedonia and Thrace Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities

Sarah Baxter gets under the skin of the local culture of East Macedonia It was nearing midnight, and a long, warm day was drawing to a close in the Eastern Macedonian village of Soufli. The plates had been scraped of their last delicious morsels – babo sausage, pilau-like pligouri, spicy baked feta. The tsipouro was flowing. And two men at the next table had pulled out their instruments. “The one with the bouzouki is the owner,” local archaeologist Athanassios Gouridis told me as we turned to watch. “I think he only opened the restaurant so he’d have somewhere to play.” And play he did, sending traditional rebetika songs into the night air, across the rooftops and out over the mulberry trees. “This music is like the blues,” explained Athanassios. “It’s the music of poverty, brought from the east.” When the men broke into ‘Tis Dikaiosinis Ilie Noite’ – ‘Sun of Justice’, a hymn to Greek freedom – everyone on the terrace (all locals bar me) grew misty-eyed and sang along. Soufli sits on the easternmost reaches of the Rhodope Mountains, right by the Turkish border, close to Bulgaria too; the culture at this crossroads of Europe is complicated, with music, food and heritage all intermixed. But little Soufli has a distinct identity. While it’s off the beaten track – “It’s not only foreign tourists,” admitted Athanassios, “many Greeks don’t know where Soufli is” – it’s starting to be noticed. In 2021 Soufli was named one of the planet’s Best Tourism Villages by the World Tourism Organization (UNWTO). This global initiative was launched to shine a spotlight on villages where tourism preserves traditions, celebrates diversity, provides opportunities and safeguards biodiversity. Soufli ticks all those boxes. This was clear as soon as I arrived at the handsome Hotel Koukouli (meaning ‘cocoon’), a stout stone-and-brick building, formerly one of Soufli’s old silk cocoon houses. Sericulture flourished here from the 19th century; though demand dropped after the Second World War, when cheaper synthetic fabrics boomed, the silk industry continues to shape the town. The best place to begin an exploration of this heritage is at the smart Silk Museum, also occupying an old silk cocoon house. Here I learned about the lifecycle of the Bombyx mori and the process of harvesting their precious thread – each of these 25g larvae spins an astonishing 2,000 metres of silk. At Soufli’s Art of Silk Museum, I met the critters themselves – a tray of chalk-white silk worms were munching greedily on mulberry leaves, the only thing they eat. More eclectic was the Gnafala Folklore Museum, where the Bourouliti family have turned part of their silk shop over to a treasure-trove of items donated by locals, from farming paraphernalia to traditional maternity bracelets. Dimitra Bourouliti also creates jewellery from silk cocoons, and offers earring-making workshops. “It’s important to maintain the folk art – it’s our roots,” she told me, “but also to make something new.” Soufli’s ‘silk route’ is wide-ranging, but also a work in progress. For instance, Athanassios showed me around the Tzivre Factory complex, first built in 1909 and now in various states of renovation – when finished, hopefully in 2023, it will be a museum, cultural centre and bar. The 28m-high chimney still stands, and the vast spinning hall, with its phalanx of original dusty machines, has been restored. In the three-storey cocoon house, we stepped gingerly over dilapidated wooden floors, between the ranks of broken multi-level beds where silk worms were reared – restoring this is the next project. While Soufli still has its silk, the city of Kavala, 200km further west and the main seaport of Eastern Macedonia, has all but lost the industry that made its fortune. Tobacco was the cash-crop here, which saw the port thrive in the 19th century, and wealthy merchants build beautiful, show-off warehouses – it was good for business. Fortunately, the lively city still has plenty to attract the curious traveller, as I discovered with guide Marianna Christoforou. She met me at the stylish Anthemion Hotel, one-time mansion of a Jewish tobacco merchant. The building is lodged in the shadow of the arched Ottoman aqueduct that once brought water from the mountains to Kavala’s hilltop citadel and still cuts a dramatic 25m-high dash through the town. Marianna led me up to the citadel, around the mazy, ramshackle streets, right to the upper fortress, for views over the rooftops and across the Aegean to the island of Thassos. Then we snacked on local kourabiedes biscuits and ate at a harbourside taverna, where the sardines virtually leapt from sea to plate. We also explored out of town. On Kavala’s outskirts lies the walled city of Philippi, founded in 356 BC by Macedonian King Philip II on the Via Egnatia, the ancient route linking Europe and Asia. I twirled in its well-preserved theatre, wishing I’d timed my visit for one of the performances still held here. We also visited the nearby Baptistry of Lydia, built on the site where the Apostle Paul baptised the first Christian woman in Europe. The building here now dates from the 1970s, a temple of exquisite mosaics by the river, amid a serenity of plane, poplar and walnut trees. “My grandchildren were baptised here,” Marianna told me as she lit a taper and placed it by Lydia’s effigy. “Many come here on pilgrimage.” In antiquity, this whole area was surrounded by swamp land. Now, all that remains of that mire are the Krinides mud baths, were €6 will get you a wellness dose to treat everything from skin diseases to rheumatism. “Doctors give it on prescription – it’s a panacea,” Marianna told me as we stripped down to disposable knickers and descended, with some effort, into the thick, grey-brown gloop. It was like stirring yourself, naked, in a raw chocolate brownie mix. A mix with little frogs hopping about on the surface… Groups of women (there are separate baths for the sexes) chattered around us. “It’s a good place to come for gossip,” Marianna said. We gossiped ourselves, talking about the acropolis of Philippi, visible beyond the fence, as well as about her family and life in general. When I hauled myself out, I felt refreshed, taut, even silky. I had gotten a little under the skin of this little-visited side of Greece – and it had certainly gotten under mine. == With thanks to Joysters for facilitating our visit in the summer of 2022. Read more about what to do, where to stay and eat, in our Green Traveller's Guide to East Macedonia and Thrace

Sarah Baxter discovers a patch of paradise – teeming with wildlife – in the far north-eastern corner of Greece that’s well off the beaten tourist track Not many international visitors make it to the ancient lands of Macedonia and Thrace in the far north-eastern corner of Greece at the end of the Rhodope mountain chain and at the meeting of continents. But avian visitors? This place is heaving. That’s what I learned as I peered through a spotting scope in the hilltop hide at Dadia-Lefkimi-Soufli Forest National Park. As I focused on the black kites baubling a leafless tree, and the black and griffon vultures hunched on the ridge below, local guide Chrysoula Bampaka told me why the park is such a hotspot for birds. “It’s a crossroads for migrating species,” she explained. “There are good rock outcrops here, good trees and few people.” Indeed, the low, stream-tickled pastures and oak-and-pine-cloaked slopes of Dadia-Lefkimi-Soufli are one of the most important protected areas on the continent. Some 36 of Europe’s 38 species of diurnal birds of prey can be seen here – from sparrowhawks and red-footed falcons to imperial and golden eagles – as well as black storks and a noisy twitterati of woodland birds. At the other end of the hide, two rangers sat quietly, making their daily count: fifty so far, including an Egyptian vulture. Though that’s nothing. “It was 6 August 2010,” Chrysoula recalled with a delight and precision only possible from someone passionate about their job, “we had over 200 birds here at one time.” That same level of abundance continued as I made my way out of the lush foothills and towards the starker, striking landscapes of the Evros Delta. Here, the Evros River – which forms the border between Turkey and Greece – meets the Aegean in a rich morass of lakes, lagoons, swamps, sand dunes and reedbeds. Drainage projects have threatened this unique habitat over the years but it was declared a Ramsar-protected wetland in 1974. With around 320 species recorded, the birdwatching is excellent. “I come here every week – if I don’t I feel there’s something missing from my life.” Local photographer Nasos Nalbantis had joined me on a trip with Evros Delta Explorer and we were bouncing along a track through the marshes – trying not to run over tortoises – to reach the mooring of Captain Christos’s flat-bottomed boat. The blazing sun heat-hazed the maze of shallow pools and the swathes of olive-green and burgundy glassworts. Curlews, egrets and a glossy ibis waded in the water; a bee eater buzzed above. “There’s a marsh harrier,” Nasos said, giving the bird barely a nod. “They’re like sparrows here.” Once aboard the boat, we navigated the delta’s winding channels, passing innumerable herons and rickety fishing huts slumped amid the reeds, to reach the open water. There didn’t seem to be too much going on at first as Christos steered us further out: a few washed up trees were providing perches for pelicans, a lone fisherman was casting his net. Then we noticed a pale patch on the horizon begin to move: a flock of flamingoes, subtly striding towards shallower water, where they knew boats couldn’t follow. Well, most boats. With care and skill, Christos navigated us a little closer, closer, closer… and then up they went. One, ten, 50, the whole elegant squadron, rising together as if bound by invisible threads, giving us the perfect, slow-motion flyby so that, for a minute, the blue sky was shot through with a volley of pink arrows, the only sound the light beat of their wings. I was to get more hands-on for my next watery foray. The Nestos River, a little west of Evros, also flows into the Aegean; its course is also a haven for wildlife, and its surroundings are also relatively little-visited. “This is an unknown part of Greece,” Ilias Michailidis, founder of Riverland Adventure, told me as we readied for a day of exploring. First, we hopped into kayaks to experience one of the Nestos’s most dramatic stretches, where the crystal-clear water meanders through a particularly tight, craggy defile in the Rhodope Mountains. Here, osprey and vultures soar overhead while tenacious Haberlea rhodopensis plants – survivors from the last Ice Age – cling to the limestone walls. Incredibly, a railway was hacked into the rock in the late 19th-century, which once carried the Orient Express this way; with the line currently defunct, the only way through the gorge now is to trek along the vertiginous pathway created by those dogged railway engineers – which is now a first-class hiking trail – or to do as I was and paddle through. “There are many stories about gold being hidden here,” Ilias told me as we sculled across the cool shallows, gazing up at the looming cliffs, pocked with caves. “This is a place of legends, linked to Orpheus, where so many cultures have crossed over the centuries.” It was peaceful today though, as we glided past sandy beaches and hunting herons, and diverted down a lush channel where seeds drifted like snow and dragonflies seemed to shimmer on every reed. I didn’t really want to stop kayaking but Ilias had more to show me. We transferred to his jeep and hairpinned up the mountain road to look down on the meandering river we’d just paddled. We dropped deeper into the hinterland to search for wild horses in the valley’s abandoned villages. And we visited the Meligeysis farm in tiny Komnina, where Geysis Toulomidou introduced us to her hardworking bees and plied us with fresh-fried doughnuts drenched in her own honey. But we finished back by the water, this time on Lake Vistonida. Vistonida, along with the Nestos Delta, sits within the National Park of East Macedonia & Thrace, another vital wetland where birds flourish. As the sky faded from brilliant-blue to soft periwinkle, we walked out to St Nicholas Monastery, which floats on two islets in the lake. At this sunset hour it was quiet, just a few cormorants drying their wings, a ginger-white cat lolling on the church steps and two dark-robed monks, one tending a vegetable patch, the other sitting on a bench, deep in thought. It was just the sort of place for thinking – peaceful, calm, removed from the clamour of the world. Until another bunch of rowdy visitors turned up: I watched them arrive en masse, big, boisterous types, making a din. More avian tourists of course – this time pelicans – making sure that, in this region at least, us humans stay well out-numbered. == With thanks to Joysters for facilitating our visit in the summer of 2022. Read more about what to do, where to stay and eat, in our Green Traveller's Guide to East Macedonia and Thrace

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Green Spain, our travel writer Ginny Light experiences the culture and heritage of Galicia, Asturias, Cantabria and the Basque Country - the prehistoric, the medieval and the modern. Prehistoric Green Spain The climate of Green Spain and its bounteous soils and plentiful seas, have been a draw for populations from prehistory to modern day, all of whom have left their mark in an extraordinary trail of heritage through the ages. In Cantabria exists one of the largest collection of prehistoric art and artefacts in Europe, matched only by those discovered in southern France. Visitors to the area can see cave art at a number of sites including at Altamira (pictured above), where there is a state-of-the-art museum and replica cave alongside the original. Visits to the actual cave art are limited to one tour per week for five people, drawn by ballot from visitors who buy tickets on a Friday morning. But seeing the replica, or Neocave, is astounding and will surprise those who may not expect this to be one of the highlights of the region. The cave has been recreated as close as possible to the real thing, with the art covering the ceiling of the rear chamber. There's a quiet beauty to this art - bison in bold charcoal outlines and sweeping ochre shading with eyes full of emotion. In fact, when the art was first discovered in 1879 the authenticity of it was doubted because of the prowess of the paintings. It was also difficult to believe that palaeolithic man would produce art on this scale when life was so challenging and focused on survival. The quandary was why so much time would be spent on something without any practical use. There are a few theories - that it is regarded as ritual, or as a good omen to aid hunting or as a record of events. The power of the drawings owes to the effectiveness of the setting. The rock surfaces are authentic and together with the videos and explanation, it is not a leap of imagination to conjure images of prehistoric man daubing the paint into the cave walls. The museum has numerous exhibits about prehistoric life, how the discoveries at Altamira were made in 1879 and other palaeolithic discoveries from across Spain, much of it from Cantabria. Not all displays are translated into English but there is enough for non-Spanish speakers. There is also a gift shop and drink and snack machines. Close to Altamira is a beautifully preserved medieval town, Santillana del Mar, which developed around a collegiate church some 15,000 years after the cave paintings were created. The pale stone cobbled streets have been smoothed by foot traffic, not just of modern day tourists but also the thousands of pilgrims who have passed through en route to Santiago de Compostela. They have also left their mark on the walls outside the town’s most famous building, Santa Juliana. Deep carved crosses adorns the wall where tourists now sit to admire the gallery of cloisters over the church door and the comings and goings of the town’s main square. There are fine examples of Roman architecture across Green Spain but nowhere is it more intact than in Lugo. The town, known during Roman times as Lucus Augusti, remains completely encircled by its original Roman walls. They are considered the best example of late Roman fortifications in western Europe. Visitors can walk around the 2.3km walkway along the top of the walls for a bird’s eye view of the city. It is a good opportunity to walk off the ‘pinchos’ - tapas style small plates of food - that come free with a drink in many of the bars in the Old Town. Lugo is famous for its cathedral, Praza de Santa Maria, a 12th century Romanesque building with additions in the Baroque, Gothic and Neoclassical styles. Also popular, especially for walkers, are the Roman baths, now part of a modern spa complex in the Hotel Balneario de Lugo, close to the Roman bridge over the River Mino.Such is the town’s history that every year, it is transformed for Lucus Augusti, a re-enactment festival each June.The other great festival is Fiestas de San Froilán in October, a celebration of music, theatre, parades, street markets and tapas, notably Galician style octopus. Azpeitia has a handful of historical buildings but this does include the spectacular Sanctuary de Loyola. It takes a leap of faith to get here - it is a largely industrial area along the River Urola so it is all the more surprising when a monumental basilica with two wings and surrounding gardens loom large. It was built in the 17th century in honour of St Ignatius of Loyola, who was born nearby. The basilica is breathtaking. The dome is painted blue, pink and gold gilt with coats of arms radiating out from a glass cupola from which dangles a vast crystal chandelier. There’s a mirror in the centre of the basilica, which means you can look down, rather than straining up, and give the ceiling the lengthy attention it deserves. The altar is also extraordinary, inlaid with intricate images - a drum, a pierced heart, a fortress and all around is marble in every hue. Extravagance and colour also run wild in one of Gaudi’s most eccentric buildings, The Caprice, in Comillas, Cantabria. The exterior of this private house is a chequerboard of enamel yellow sunflowers and bright green tiles. It has a lookout tower, metal balconies shaped like musical notes and star-shaped chimney funnels. It was built in 1883 for a wealthy lawyer and property developer called Maximo Diaz de Quijano. He chose Comillas because it was the fashionable summer retreat of wealthy and noble Spaniards - even the Spanish royal family spent holidays there. Much of the wealth in this region during the 19th century was generated by emigres, or Indianos, who made their fortune in south America and wanted to show off their wealth back home. There are colonial style mansions with arched windows, terraces with balconies and distinctive yellow, cream and terracotta paintwork. Maximo Diaz de Quijano wanted to out do them all. The house has a complex history including a time spent derelict but has been bought and restored as a museum with information about Gaudi as well as many of his drawings and some of his furniture. Modern For modern art and architecture, Green Spain has so much to offer. From the whacky vineyards of Rioja such as the Marques de Riscal (pictured above) or Bodegas Ysios (pictured below), to Frank Gehry’s Guggenheim and Renzo Piano’s Centro Botin in Santander, or Chillida’s wind comb sculptures in San Sebastián (also pictured below), there are so many arresting and thought-provoking sights. The Guggenheim Museum (above) in Bilbao is art in itself and if your time or budget is short, then it is even worth just a perambulation of the exterior to enjoy the extraordinary building from every angle and the various sculptures and temporary exhibits around the outside. The bridges across the Nervion River are also a good viewpoint from which to enjoy Gehry's metal curves. Otherwise, there is free art across the region, including a contemporary art trail in San Sebastián to see Chillida’s wind combs as well as some of his less well known works. Words by Ginny Light. Photos by Christoper Willan. == More information: Spanish Tourist Office: www.spain.info Galicia: www.turismo.gal/inicio Asturias: www.turismoasturias.es/en/home Cantabria: www.turismodecantabria.com/inicio Basque Country: www.tourism.euskadi.eus/en == Disclosure: Ginny Light was a guest of the Spanish Tourist Office. Ginny had full editorial control of the review, which is written in her own words based on her experience of visiting Green Spain in the winter of 2018 for Green Traveller's Guide to Green Spain. All opinions are the author's own.

From the sandy beaches and coastal towns of Costa Brava to the snowy forests and towering peaks of Val d’Aran, Greentraveller’s bloggers Richard Hammond and Holly Rooke travelled with photographer Christopher Willan through the wonderfully diverse landscapes of northern Catalonia into the Pyrenees. The trip was featured on Twitter and Instagram using the hashtags #CatalunyaExperience #Visitpirineus. Below are some of the highlights of the trip, including a short film we produced. This video shows highlights from our 12-day trip in Catalonia, from the sandy beaches and coastal towns of Costa Brava to the snowy forests and towering peaks of Val d’Aran. Filmed by Greentraveller Productions Compiled by Richard Hammond and Holly Rooke with additional research by Florence Fortnam. Photos by Christopher Willan. == Disclosure: Richard Hammond, Holly Rooke and Christopher Willan were guests of the Catalan Tourist Board. Richard and Holly had full editorial control of the review, which is written in their own words based on their experience of visiting Catalonia in the winter of 2017 for Greentraveller's Guide to Catalonia. All opinions are the authors' own.

Paul Bloomfield is blessed with a bird-watching bonanza while kayaking in Terres de l'Ebre, tries his hand at rice planting, and discovers a remarkable Cathedral of Wine Egrets – I’ve had a few. Well, six, to be precise, and of two species: great and little, which I spotted as they perched on branches alongside the Ebro River before taking off with long, languid flaps. They were joined by grey, purple and – my favourite – squacco herons, the latter’s delicate peach-hued plumage cloaking milk-white underwings revealed when it lifted off from the gently dappled surface of the Ebro. These spingly-legged, snake-necked birds are mesmerising enough at any time, but my encounter was all the more special as it was at water level. I’d joined local kayak guide Eloi Balsells for a gentle morning’s birdwatching adrift on a peaceful stretch of the river between Garcia and Móra d’Ebre, where the gentle flow meant that we could skim close to any birdlife with just a flick of the paddle. Watch Paul kayaking and bird watching in Terres de l’Ebre in our video highlights of his trip: Video filmed and produced by Greentraveller Productions Just minutes after pushing off, a brief detour down a tributary was rewarded with turquoise and orange flashes as a kingfisher (charmingly and descriptively named ‘blauet’ in Catalan) darted around us. Moorhens and coots lurked in the reeds alongside the bank, and housemartins in their hundreds swooped and swarmed around a bridge pimpled with their nests. Eloi directed me and my three companions into a still-quieter channel between an island and the right bank, beneath rust-stained cliffs. Here the melodious concerto of birdsong swelled and almost drowned out the soft splashes of our paddles; white wagtails bobbed their behinds on the banks, and a great egret chased off a grey heron he deemed to be trespassing. Finally we emerged into the still-sluggish main stream, where two squacco herons provided a dash of subtle pink. All in all, it was two hours of birdwatching bliss. But then most of the Terres de l’Ebre, Catalonia’s south-westernmost province, is a natural wonderland – reflected in its designation as a Unesco Biosphere Reserve in 2013. Like the rest of Catalonia, it boasts a diverse range of landscapes and habitats, from the rocky, rugged interior to sweeping beaches adjoining the better-known Costa Daurada and the shimmering wetlands of the Ebro Delta Natural Park. That feather-and-float interlude from Garcia marked the start of a snaking journey south through the province. From our pull-out point at Móra d’Ebre, it was a short hop south-west to El Pinell de Brai, where a rather different aspect of the region’s natural bounty is showcased at the Catedral del Vi – the Cathedral of Wine. Established by a cooperative founded a century ago in 1917, this modernist masterpiece exists to showcase the products of vines nearly as venerable as the building itself, some over 80 years old. Here we sampled vintages of the local Terra Alta denomination: white grenache, typical of the region; oak-aged shiraz, warm and spicy; and a dessert wine redolent with honey and orange. Inside, the ‘cathedral’ label makes more sense: instead of columns, the lofty ‘nave’ is packed with soaring vats, and a visit to the upper level reveals the sinuous, organic struts and pillars reminiscent of Gaudí’s Sagrada Familia – unsurprising, given that this building’s creator, Cèsar Martinell, was a disciple of the great architect of Barcelona. In the province’s west rise the extraordinary, bulbous outcrops known as Roques de Benet in Els Ports Natural Park, a playground for hikers. And artists: it was near here, in the picturesque hilltop village of Horta de Sant Joan, that Picasso retreated in his formative years from 1897 and again in 1909, and where he claimed to have learned his craft. We, however, had come to pedal rather paint, and bypassed the village’s popular Picasso museum. Instead we joined cycling guide Josep Palleres and freewheeled downhill to the nearby Greenway cycling trail. Converted from a disused railway track, this delightfully smooth track loops from Arnes, on the border with Aragon, some 49km to Tortosa via Horta – a convenient point from which to sample a scenic downhill stretch. From the disused station at Horta we passed beneath craggy hills and olive groves, the air scented with herbs alongside the track. To our right loomed the distinctive outcrops of Els Ports, while beneath our wheels trickled the Canaletes River, a tributary of the Ebro spanned by high bridges from which canyons beckoned temptingly. At Bot, an old railway carriage has been converted into a bar-café – an ideal spot to refuel en route. Instead we pressed on, through echoing tunnels and past folded red-rock gorges, to Antiga Estació de Benifallet (Benifallet Old Station), where another café and guesthouse refreshes cyclists. The scenery unfolding alongside the path is diverse and spectacular, and we finished our ride with vows to return and complete the full trail. South we continued, to the mouth of the Ebro. Long ago this vast delta glistened with saltpans, till the formerly brackish lowlands were flooded with river water for rice production, which now covers some 21,000 hectares – coincidentally creating an immense haven for birds. Pale pink juvenile flamingos stilt-walk and sift through the mud for crustacean tidbits, alongside glossy ibis and more herons and egrets; sharp-eyed marsh harriers soar above, scouting for prey; and copious ducks, moorhens and coots fill the air with their coarse calls. Alongside the typical cob-and-thatch houses of the delta I tried my hand – not altogether successfully – at punting the traditional shallow boats used by fishers and hunters, before joining local legend M Polet for a lesson in rice growing. “First, we take the stalks, harvested with serrated scythes, and thresh the grains,” he told me. “We use a heavy iron caduc pole – a traditional Arabic tool – to dehusk the rice, tossing it in the air to separate the grains. Then we sift through flat sieves to isolate the good grains. It’s a long, laborious process – but it makes the best (and most expensive) rice in the world!”Finally, M Polet ordered me to remove my shoes to experience the lot of the rice-grower. Into the warm, soothing mud of the paddy we squelched, soft sediment oozing between my toes. “It’s my gym,” pronounced M Polet. “Working in the mud builds thigh muscles at the same time as giving me a foot massage!” If that episode proved one thing, it was that I’m better at eating rice than harvesting it – and local specialities such as arròs tot pelat, a delectable seafood paella, are well worth seeking out. But it seemed apt to end my visit to the lands of the Ebro River knee-deep in the these waters – the same waters nurturing the birds, grapes, rice and shellfish that make the region such a diverse, delicious treat. Words and photos by Paul Bloomfield Further information: En Blau offers birdwatching kayak tours on the Ebro River.The Catedral del Vi at El Pinell de Brai offers guided tours, wine and olive-oil tastings and plenty of products to buy. There’s also an excellent restaurant. Esgambi offers cycle hire, guided and supported bike rides along the Greenway around Horta de Sant Joan. Nòmada Viatges runs various activities around the Ebro delta, including cycling and interpretive visits. Delta Polet offers a range of experiences in the delta, including walking, gastronomic tours and the chance to sleep in a traditional cob-and-thatch house. === Disclosure: Paul Bloomfield was a guest of the Catalan Tourist Board. He has full editorial control of the review, which is written in his own words based on his experience of visiting Catalonia in the early summer of 2017 for Green Traveller's Guide to Catalonia. All opinions are the author’s own.

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Catalonia, Paul Bloomfield picks out a selection of local attractions, from the coast to the mountains of the Pyrenees. Catalonia's history stretches back thousands of years, the evidence still visible in Neolithic dolmens, cave paintings and rock-carvings across the region. Since then, castles and cathedrals, monasteries and medieval villages have risen and fallen, not to mention modernist masterpieces by the likes of Antoni Gaudí and Cèsar Martinell. So there’s an array of cultural gems to admire in the form of fine Romanesque churches, Roman and Greek ruins and contemporary galleries and museums. But it’s the landscape that’s the real star in Catalonia. The Costas will be familiar, their shores lined with sandy beaches lapped by the temptingly turquoise Mediterranean – but you’ll also find national and natural parks of spectacular beauty and variety. There’s the volcanic cones and lava flows of La Garrotxa, the limestone cliffs of Montsant, the Pyrenean lakes of Aigüestortes, and the shimmering wetlands of the Ebro Delta, to name just a few. All are best appreciated on foot, by bike or with paddle in hand. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Catalonia: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places of interest in Catalonia La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park, Girona Pyrenees This unique region in far north-eastern Catalunya was created by dramatic volcanic ructions, and some 40 cones and more than 20 lava flows are still evident in the natural park. Thanks to the fertile volcanic soil and climate it’s a natural wonderland, much forested and scattered with historic villages. turismegarrotxa.com Serra de Montsant and Siurana Natural Park, Costa Daurada The limestone cliffs of the Montsant loom from the plains like the rock walls of an mighty ancient fortress; no surprise that medieval hermits chose this forbidding place to live in isolation, lending it the name ‘Holy Mountain’ (Montsant). turismepriorat.org Parc Natural de Sant Llorenç de Munt i l'Obac, Paisatges Barcelona Linking two eponymous mountain ranges some 30km north-west of Barcelona is this enticing natural park, its slopes patched with holm oak and Aleppo pine forest, and studded with historic gems – notably the 10th-century Benedictine monastery of Sant Llorenç del Munt on the summit of La Mola, at 1,104m the park’s highest peak. parcs.diba.cat/web/SantLlorenc Montseny Natural Park, Costa Barcelona & Costa Brava This UNESCO Biosphere Reserve between Barcelona and Girona is a delightfully varied mountainous landscape of woods and dappled streams, high summits and old farmsteads. turisme-montseny.com Sitges Biosphere Destination, Costa Barcelona This attractive coastal town is best known for its lively atmosphere and year-round fine weather – protected by the Garraf mountains, its microclimate ensures mild winters and warm summers, making it a popular beach resort. A packed calendar includes film, music, theatre and traditional cultural festivals, concerts, sports events and the boisterous Carnival. It’s also a family-friendly Biosphere Destination, where activities include cycling in nearby Garraf Natural Park, soaking up the sun on the 4km-long beach or simply strolling the seafront promenade and admiring the fin-de-siècle colonial ‘Indiano’ mansions. biospheretourism.com Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici National Park, Lleida Pyrenees Catalunya has the one national park – and it’s a beauty. Look at a map of the far north of Catalunya and you’ll see a verdant carpet speckled with blue – a craggy region clad with ancient fir and black pine forests, and studded with hundreds of jewel-like mountain lakes. lleidatur.com Montsec Starlight Reserve and Astronomical Park, Lands of Lleida The vertiginous Montsec Massif is, unsurprisingly, sparsely populated, and with low light pollution and clear air it’s a perfect spot for stargazing – it’s now designated a UNESCO Starlight Reserve. parcastronomic.cat Val d’Aran Biosphere Destination, Val d’Aran The spectacular Pyrenean landscapes, dominated by mountains, forests, lakes and the Garona River are the main scenic attractions of this long-isolated highland valley, and key reasons why it became the first mountain tourist destination to receive UNESCO Biosphere Responsible Tourism Certification. biospheretourism.com Recinte Modernista de Sant Pau, Barcelona After eight decades as a hospital, the extraordinary modernist edifice of Sant Pau, built in the early 20th century by famed architect Lluís Domènech i Montaner in Barcelona’s l'Eixample district, was retired in 2009. Today, it’s been reborn as a multi-purpose complex that’s a treat to explore. santpaubarcelona.org Romanesque churches of the Boí Valley, Lleida Pyrenees The eight Romanesque churches and hermitage retreat of the Boí Valley are collectively a UNESCO World Heritage Site. They were built during the 11th and 12th Century, based on an architectural style imported from northern Italy of iconic slim bell-towers and rounded arcading and pilaster strips. centreromanic.com Hort de la Sínia – Costa Daurada Part organic allotment cooperative and part eco health retreat, Hort de la Sínia is a place to work the land and relax among nature in the great outdoors. hortdelasinia.com For information on characterful places to stay, local food and drink, and nearby low-impact activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Catalonia

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Catalonia, Paul Bloomfield picks out a selection of activities from the coast to the mountains of the Pyrenees. Mountain high, river deep… not to mention delta, beach, sea and cycle path – Catalonia's roster of venues and activities is nearly endless. So in the Pyrenees you might try skiing, mountain-biking, hiking or canyoning, or simply immerse yourself in traditional farming life. Along the coast the beaches lure sun-soakers, but there’s also stand-up paddleboarding, cycling, hiking, scuba-diving, fishing, bird-watching – even punting and rice-planting – to be enjoyed. And in the highlands of Lleida and the Terres de l’Ebre, sheer escarpments and dramatic gorges provide playgrounds for rock-climbers, paragliders, trekkers and kayakers – or, for something less energetic, the chance to soar above dormant volcanoes in a hot-air balloon. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Catalonia: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Activities in Catalonia Wine Tasting at Vins & Co, Barcelona Vins & Co specializes in a wide but carefully selected range of Catalan wines, vermouth and Catalan cava, including wine appellations from Alella, Conca de Barberà, Costers del Segre, Pla del Bages, Priorat, Monsant, and Tarragona. It provides pairings, tasting courses (there’s capacity for up to 40) and training for both amateurs and experts at its smart shop in the heart of Barcelona city centre. It also offers a ‘Personal Wine Shopper’ advisory service on how to choose wine according to your specific requirements, such as for a dinner or establishing a private cellar. barcelonanavaltours.com Wine Tasting at the Catedral del Vi, Terres de l’Ebre The magnificent modernist Wine Cathedral in the small town of El Pinell de Brai is a suitable venue for a veneration of vines and their fruits. A cooperative formed by 14 local families in the early 20th century commissioned renowned architect Cèsar Martinell, a disciple and friend of the great Antoni Gaudí (author of Barcelona’s Sagrada Familia) to create this masterpiece, with its bold and confident exterior, its cavernous interior supported by sinuous parabolic arches and packed with vast wine vats. catedralsdelvi.cat Wine Tasting at Mas Igneus, Costa Daurada An exemplary multi award-winning vineyard, certified organic, whose cellar is in a stunning setting at the solar-powered Costers de l’Ermita estate among the slate terraces and hillsides of Gratallops. It has two other estates (Finca Comellars in Poboleda and Finca La Salanca in Torroja) and also works will a small group of independent growers. masigneus.com Accessible Walking Tour, Barcelona Barcelona is one of the most accessible-friendly cities in the world. The city’s commitment to barrier-free travel is typified by Barcelona Zero Limits, a travel agency that specialises in inclusive travel. Its accessible walking tours through the city are specially designed for people with reduced mobility. Tours include Stories and Legends of the Gothic Quarter, Ghost Tour, and Literary tour of the city. barcelonazerolimits.com Hiking at Montserrat Natural Park, Paisatges de Barcelona The mountain of Montserrat, 50km north-west of Barcelona, is best known as the site of the historic Benedictine Monastery of Santa Maria, founded in 1025, home to the 12th-century statue of Our Lady of Montserrat (the so-called ‘Black Virgin’) that still attracts countless pilgrims today. But though the extensive main monastery complex is the big draw, the striking rock outcrops of the surrounding natural park provide a dramatic backdrop for hikes including the testing climb up to the highest peak, San Jeroni. Numerous paths offer walks for a range of levels of experience and ability; the easy Tebes Trail visits the ruins of the ancient churches of San Juan, San Onofre and Santa Magdalena. Via ferrata and rock-climbing tours are also available. montserratvisita.com Hiking the Camí de Ronda, Costa Brava The Costa Brava (‘wild coast’) on the far-eastern region of Catalonia has beautiful craggy, forested shores, hidden coves, traditional fishing towns and wonderful flora and fauna. The 560km GR92 (Sender del Mediterrani) traces the entire Catalan coastline between the French and Valencian borders, but for a more compact hike try the stretch in the Costa Brava. camideronda.com Hiking or Mountain Biking the Camin Reiau, Val d’Aran The long-isolated Pyrenean region of the Val d’Aran has a unique character and heritage (and language, more closely related to Occitan dialects of south-west France than to Catalan). The historic ‘royal road’ that linked the 33 villages of the region has now been waymarked as a wonderful and challenging hiking trail, the Camin Reiau, covering 150km and with ample ups and downs totalling some 12,000m altitude gain. caminreiau.cat Cycling the Greenway with Esgambi, Terres de l’Ebre Nearly half a century ago, the train line between Arnes, on the Aragon border, and Tortosa on the lower Ebro closed. But the failure of the railway has been a boon for bikers – the route has now been converted into a wonderful Green Way cycle trail, looping 49km around the dramatic rock outcrops of Els Ports Natural Park and past charming and historic towns and villages such as Horta de Sant Joan, where Picasso spent some years during his youth (“Everything I know, I learned in Horta”, he once said). esgambi.com Cycling in Catalonia - self-guided This gentle cycling holiday explores a culturally rich yet remote-feeling corner of Catalonia which is blessed by a truly Mediterranean climate. Mostly mainly along traffic-free vía verde (dedicated cycle paths) and includes a tour of Girona. inntravel.co.uk Ecological sailing tour, Moll de les Drassanes, Barcelona An eco-catamaran that runs 40-minute tours throughout the day from Barcelona’s Port Vell harbour. With a carrying capacity for 150 people, a lightweight, aerodynamic design that's powered by renewable energy, it is reputedly the largest ecological passenger catamaran in Europe, and a great way to see the city’s skyline from the sea. barcelonanavaltours.com Birdwatching by Kayak on the Ebro River, Terres de l’Ebre The Ebro is Spain’s longest river, flowing 910km south from the Cantabrian Mountains to the Mediterranean at the shimmering delta south-west of Tarragona. It’s also thriving with life, and a guided kayak trip with En Blau offers a wonderful opportunity to admire the colourful and charismatic species that throng its banks. enblau.cat Climbing in Siurana, Costa Daurada The tiny medieval stone village of Siurana north-west of Tarragona, perched precariously on the edge of a vertiginous cliff overlooking the eponymous snaking river and marsh far below, is one of the most picturesque in all Catalonia – against stiff competition. turismesiurana.org Canyoning around Llavorsí, Lleida Pyrenees If you want an inkling of what a river feels like, try canyoning – hurling yourself down rocky gorges, leaping off high rocks into deep pools, abseiling down cliffs and waterfalls, and sliding down smooth riverbeds… all in the name of fun. The Lleida Pyrenees offer an extensive menu of gorges to tackle, each with its own personality and level of challenge, but all ruggedly beautiful. rocroi.com Discovering Traditional Farming at Mas la Coromina, Girona Pyrenees Farming has changed enormously over recent decades – but at this bucolic spot in the volcanic region of La Garrotxa, the same family has been raising dairy cattle for over half a century, maintaining traditional methods and high standards of animal welfare. maslacoromina.cat Vol de Coloms Hot Air Ballons, Girona Pyrenees Get a novel perspective on the dormant volcanoes of La Garrotxa – float high above in a hot-air balloon, with far-reaching views across the Pyrenees and south over Montserrat to the Mediterranean, sipping a glass of pink sparkling cava and munching on coca de llardons, a traditional savoury cake. voldecoloms.cat Paragliding at Montsec, Lands of Lleida The sheer, southerly rock face of the Montsec massif isn’t just awe-inspiring – it’s also ideal for paragliding and hang-gliding, with reliable updrafts and thermals creating perfect conditions for aerial adventures above the long ridge and the turquoise waters of Carelles Lake and the Congost de Mont-Rebei gorge. zenithaventura.com Rice Planting on the Ebro Delta, Terres de l’Ebre As well as seafood, the wide wetlands of the Ebro Delta are famed for rice – since the late 17th century the flat lands flooded by the river’s freshwater have produced some of the highest-quality grains, as well as providing welcoming habitat for a variety of birds. deltapolet.com For information on characterful places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Catalonia

As we launch our Green Traveller's Guide to Formentera, here's our guide to how to travel around this beautiful island. All photos provided by Formentera Tourism How to travel around Formentera Cycling is the easiest and quickest was to get around the island's mostly gentle terrain. Visitors staying in La Savina, Es Pujols, Sant Francesc and Saint Ferran can make use of a handy tool for exploring this busy northern corner of the island more efficiently by bike: the Metrominut Formentera map includes route details and timings for eight different cycle trails around the region, including towns, beaches and sites of interest; the longest section takes just 23 minutes. There's also 'green routes' – a network of 32 signposted walking, running and cycling trails criss-crossing the island, each route can be followed independently or linked together to form a longer excursion. Moto Rent Pujols rents out touring bikes, mountain bikes, e-bikes and Askoll electric scooters. You can also venture into the island's hinterlands on horseback. Local, family-owned riding operator, Rutas Es Boixets, takes pride in seeking out the island’s quieter, most scenic paths for visitors. From private lessons for complete beginners to gentle one-hour excursions through pine and juniper forests or 2.5-hour dawn treks for more experienced riders that include the chance to ride horses along the surf. The network of public buses are convenient for the longer journeys or the few climbs, such as up to La Mola. For timetables, see busformentera.com. There are three car hire companies on the island that rent out electric cars. Europcar is in Puerto de la Savina, while Cooltra and Esformentera.com are both in the Port of La Savina. == The google map below shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Formentera: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Dartmoor, here is our guide to travelling to and around Dartmoor National Park without a car. Billed as the largest and wildest area of open country in the Southern England, Dartmoor’s proximity to Exeter and Plymouth means the National Park is well connected by rail and coach. Once in Dartmoor, there's a local bus network and some great cycle routes. Getting to Dartmoor without a car By Train The Great Western Mainline runs through Devon, linking Exeter, Newton Abbot, Ivybridge (just on the southern edge of the Park), Totnes and Plymouth with Bristol, London, and the rest of the country, and onwards through Cornwall to Penzance in the opposite direction. There are also regular long-distance railway services to Exeter and Plymouth from various other destinations across the UK, including Birmingham, Leeds, Newcastle and Edinburgh. The stations at Exeter and Plymouth, and the three towns in between, offer a range of different transport options to continue your journey on into Dartmoor National Park. By Coach or Bus Both National Express and Megabus offer services to Exeter and Plymouth, and some National Express services also stop at Totnes, Okehampton, and Newton Abbot. Okehampton in particular sits just on the northern edge of the National Park, however due to Dartmoor’s rural nature no dedicated long distance coaches serve the National Park itself. Getting around without a car By Train Unfortunately, there are no train services within Dartmoor National Park itself. By Bus Dartmoor is sadly not blessed with a comprehensive bus network, but with a little planning, you can explore the National Park by bus. The 98 (Tavistock - Yelverton - Postbridge/Bellever), and the 359 (Exeter - Moretonhampstead), operate Monday-Saturday. This is supplemented on Saturdays between May and September by the Haytor Hoppa, a hop-on, hop-off circular service taking in some of Dartmoor’s most spectacular scenery. It runs to and from Newton Abbot (for connections to railway services), connecting Haytor Information, Widecombe-in-the-Moor, Houndtor Rocks, Manaton village, Becky Falls, Yarner Wood, and Bovey Tracey. Day tickets cost £5 from Newton Abbot and £3 from Bovey Tracey, with a range of concessions available. First Devon & Cornwall has also launched an initiative encouraging people to make the most of public transport in the larger Dartmoor and Devon area for their Sundays out: the Dartmoor Sunday Rover offers unlimited all-day transport on a range of train lines for £8 per person (children £5.50, family £17), simplifying your travel around Dartmoor at the same time as saving you money. For more information about bus services in Dartmoor and Devon, see: Travel Devon. By bike The varied terrain of Dartmoor offers a range of different on- and off-road routes for cyclists of all different levels to enjoy. On weekdays when public transport is sparse, jumping on a bike can not only be one of the nicest, but also one of the easiest ways to get out and explore what the National Park has to offer. Whether you want challenging slopes and rocky off-road moorland, or quiet, flat country lanes, you’ll find it all here: but be sure to check out your routes before heading out to avoid exhaustion, disappointment, or injury! If you want to bring your bike by train, remember to book a place for it on your service in advance, you can do this by telephoning First Great Western or Cross Country Trains on dedicated numbers, or by heading to your local railway station. As a rule of thumb, bikes are not usually carried on buses in Dartmoor, however exceptions are sometimes made if and when there is space, and there are no pushchairs or wheelchairs on the bus. Should you prefer to hire a bike upon arrival in Dartmoor, then there are several different cycle hire providers in and around the National Park, including: Devon Cycle Hire, Sourton Down Adventure Okehampton, Okehampton CRS Adventures, near Ashburton Perhaps the most comprehensive way to see the best of Dartmoor's wonderful scenery is to cycle the Dartmoor Way,  a 95-mile circular route that takes in huge amounts of the National Park's varied terrain: the circular route is complimented by a 27-mile route that cuts across the heart of the moors. Additionally, four long-distance bike routes traverse Dartmoor: Devon Coast to Coast; Drake’s Trail; The Granite Way and the Plym Valley Trail. If you want to make the most of the many miles of traffic-free trails that Dartmoor has to offer, check out Dartmoor.gov.uk’s range of Dartmoor cycle maps for different difficulty levels. For more maps and information, head to one of the National Park’s visitor centres, listed below. Find out more about cycling in Dartmoor and the rest of the country with Sustrans. Maps and further information If you’re looking for more personalised advice, more information, or maps of specific parts of the park, head to one of Dartmoor’s three visitor centres: Princetown National Park Visitor Centre, Postbridge National Park Visitor Centre, Haytor National Park Information Centre. There are also several tourist information centres and community information points in the area. Alternatively, you can download maps of Dartmoor. For information on where to stay, eat, local attractions and outdoor adventure activities, see: Green Traveller's Guide to Dartmoor

Two centuries ago, the Romantic poets sought inspiration on the byways of Exmoor. Paul Bloomfield follows in their footsteps on a section of the Coleridge Way Some poets find their muses in mountains or lakes, others in birds or flowers. For the Romantics, William Wordsworth, Samuel Taylor Coleridge and Robert Southey, the wild beauty of Exmoor provided inspiration, the latter rhapsodising: ‘The inland walks are striking: the hills dark, and dells woody and watery, winding up them in ways of sequestered coolness.’ The ideal way to explore those hills and dells is to tackle the Coleridge Way, a 36-mile walking trail winding west through the Quantocks and Brendon Hills, traversing eastern Exmoor to within touching distance of the coast. The path begins at Nether Stowey, where Coleridge lived for a few years at the tail end of the 18th century, and finishes at Porlock, home of the unnamed man whose untimely visit curtailed Kubla Khan. The whole route can be walked in three or four days, with ample accommodation at stage ends; as a taster, I hiked the final nine miles north from Wheddon Cross. Descending from the village, perched high on the moor, I followed wooden fingerposts bearing the quill symbol, pointing down a track through Raleigh Manor. The settlement soon melted away, and I tramped between rhododendrons, bamboo and wild garlic; in spring, I reflected, this must surely be a riot of floral colour, but on this frosty March morning, snow dusted the path. The first two or three miles alternated between pine and deciduous woodlands, in which a woodpecker clattered its Morse code, interspersed with steep fields and narrow combes, clefts in the hillside cut by dashing streams. Reaching the valley floor, a succession of fords and stepping stones crisscrossed a winding brook; a shadow flitting across my path betrayed a buzzard soaring overhead. Soon the path rose onto the open moor beneath Dunkery Beacon, at 414m Exmoor’s highest point. As I tramped up among grass and rust-red bracken, I passed possibly the tiniest lamb I’ve ever seen, nuzzling at mother’s belly for a feed – a reminder that spring was, theoretically, here, despite the unseasonal frost. Then, cresting Dunkery’s shoulder, the vista was transformed. Snow-free hills, rounded, verdant and chequered with field boundaries, reared ahead. Footprints pocked the last patches of snow: the hopping of hares and birds, mingled with larger pawprints – had the legendary black beast of Exmoor roamed these trails? As the path curved north around Dunkery, I had a clear sense of walking away from winter. On these eastern slopes, the gorse was aflame with yellow blossoms; the sun sparkled on the Bristol Channel ahead, while to the north the creamy-yellow thatched cottages of Selworthy and Allerford nestled beneath Bossington Hill. Descending from the moor, I emerged from the woods below Webber’s Post at Horner, passing the delightful stone-built mill before crossing an ancient packhorse bridge, clad with moss and lichen, for the final mile to Porlock. Despite the damage wreaked on the poet’s fantastical dream-vision by its notorious son, Porlock celebrates its Coleridge connection. I popped into Dovery Manor, a compact gem of a museum set in a 15th-century manor house. Here, period curios and artefacts from schoolrooms and shops sit alongside natural-history exhibits and displays on the artists and poets – Coleridge, Wordsworth, Southey and Shelley among them – whose creative juices were set flowing by Exmoor. In the Coleridge Memorial Garden behind Porlock’s visitor centre, the poet is commemorated with a plaque bearing the famed first lines of Kubla Khan. But while pleasuredomes and palaces owe more to opiates than open moors, I reflected, other words from his unfinished opus perhaps speak of scenes he witnessed on his Somerset wanderings: 'A savage place! as holy and enchanted... As e'er beneath a waning moon was haunted.’ That’s Exmoor, without a doubt. Where to eat and drink Coleridge’s inspiration was fired, in part at least, by opium. My own exertions were amply fuelled instead by the breakfast provided by Rosi and Frank at Exmoor House, a B&B with a strong green ethos, where the origins of ingredients are measured not so much in food miles as inches. With bacon cured just over the border in Devon, coffee blended in Porlock, honey from Allerford and Dunster, eggs from the next-door neighbour, and home-made bread and jams (plum particularly recommended), no ingredient could have travelled more than 15 miles to my plate. Frank even makes his own baked beans. A sumptuous dinner (£24 for three courses) was similarly Exmoor-centric: venison burgers, Exmoor Jersey Blue cheese from Lydeard St Lawrence, just to the south-east, and home-made ice creams, washed down with Exmoor or Cotleigh Ales from Wiveliscombe. Cuisine aside, Exmoor House has a vintage character belied by the rather plain exterior. Built over a century ago as a tailor’s shop, its dark wood panels and quirky room shapes endow it with a unique charm. The guests’ sitting room is particularly alluring, especially when the open fire roars; with an honesty bar and shelves groaning with games, maps and books on local lore, wildlife and walks, it’s perfect for relaxing after a day’s hike – or for planning tomorrow’s exertions. Doubles £84 per night B&B.

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to the Mendip Hills, Jackie King picks out the options for a low carbon holiday among this rich and varied Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB), from the caves at Wookey and Cheddar to the gentle plains of Chew Valley and Blagdon Lakes. However you choose to criss-cross the Mendip Hills AONB, you’ll be captivated by the variety of landscapes. Geological wonders resonating with a 300-million-year history will vie for your attention, everything from sharply rising rocky outcrops, deep craggy valleys, complex cave systems, expansive undulating plateaus and peaceful and ancient country lanes. On foot, but particularly on a bike, plan your route, for the famous Somerset rolling hills could see you getting a little more exercise than you expected! Google Maps is useful tool in reconnaissance for the detail it gives of the ascents and descents of your planned route and you’ll be able to choose ways around some of the more challenging hills of the region, maybe taking in a few watering holes or cream tea spots. Famous well-marked cycle routes and walks are the Strawberry Line (National Cycle Route 26), the Limestone Link, The Mendip Way (the West and East sections), which links Weston-super-Mare with Wells and, beyond the AONB, Frome, the Monarchs Way and the West Country Way (National Cycle Route 3). Excellent walking guides are available on the Mendip Hills AONB website. The Mendip Hills provide a distinctive landmark from many directions – routes out of Bath and Bristol provide views, as does the plain of the Somerset Levels; Black Down is the Mendips highest point at 325m – easily spotted from all angles - and up here the acidic red sandstone creates a diverse heathland. The caves at Wookey and Cheddar certainly pull in the crowds and rightly so – their fascinating formation is the result of rainwater dripping onto and dissolving carboniferous limestone to carve out gorge, sink hole and cave. On flatter, more gentle plains, Chew Valley and Blagdon Lakes are big recreational centres and very popular with serious cyclists. Most evenings and any weekend see the lycra-clad road bikers emerge for some seriously speedy spinning around the watery expanse, while fishermen on hired boats, anglers and novice sailors take things at a slower pace. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Travel Guide to the Mendips: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Where to stay in the Mendips The Mendips has some of the prettiest and most varied countryside in the south west and, with few towns of any real size, wherever you pick you're likely be surrounded by little more than rolling green views and utter peace and quiet. We've scoured the region for green and gorgeous places to stay, from mellow-stoned B&Bs, pretty cottages on working farms, to wild meadow glampsites. All of our places are committed to the environment and by staying at one of these places you will be supporting owners who really are making a difference by striving to reduce their impact on the local landscape. Many of our places to stay provide so much more than just a bed for the night. Burcott Mill for example is a working watermill producing organic flour, so a stay at the charming B&B gives a valuable insight in to milling history with an on-site museum. Gorge View Cottage rewards visitors with a peachy position right in Cheddar, yet on a lane, and with great views of the gorge itself. The owners have created a super permaculture garden and as a guest you get access too. The ethos is to co-create a garden with nature to maximise biodiversity and habitat for wildlife, while producing as much home-grown produce as possible. It’s hard to believe Fernhill Farm is just seven miles from Bristol’s airport, such is its other-wordliness. Accommodation and events are provided and you can learn about their sister business, their wool enterprise at Fernhill Fleece and Fibre. There are 10 acres of woodland, orchard and kitchen garden and a further 150 acres of farmland with cattle and pigs. Folly Farm is an award-winning 250-acre nature reserve managed by the Avon Wildlife Trust. You can stay, marry, convene or build teams here in a farmhouse, studios or converted cow sheds. Walking trails through the land are offered and there’s a tremendous professional kitchen in the farmhouse too, or the farm will cater for you and your group/family. Where to eat in the Mendips The Mendip Hills may be a relatively small AONB, but you'd be hard-pressed to find a region with a stronger food heritage than Somerset. Farming still plays a dominant role in the region's ecomony and the AONB is densely strewn with cattle and dairy farms, organic veg growers and breweries. Some of the biggest names in the business come from the Mendips - think Cheddar cheese, Thatchers cider, Butcombe ale and Yeo Valley yoghurt, to name but a few. By shopping while you visit or stay, you'll support the local economy as you stock up your cupboards and fridge with prime Somerset fare. One of our favourite destinations is the Yeo Valley Farm, of which there are many aspects: an education centre, Staff Canteen, wildflower meadow, organic garden, lecture theatre, but for foodies the café is the place to head to for supper evenings in a sublime setting, delicious lunches and of course tea and cake as a punctuation to your garden browsing. Most people know Yeo Valley for its rich creamy organic yogurt, but there is a very rich Somerset food heritage running through all the dishes served up (and online you’ll find many of their recipes, too). Breakfast and lunch slots get snapped up … Organic smoked bacon sandwiches, home-made granola, vegan soups, Holt Farm burgers in brioche buns or tarts made with farm leek, spinach and celeriac. A trip to Somerset wouldn’t be complete without visiting a cider farm and at Thatchers you learn about the 100-year-old history of producing cider. You can tour the orchard, discover how apples are grown and pressed and taste the nectar in the cider shop. It’s a jolly day out for all the family and the farm sits on the Strawberry Line cycle route. Another good family option is the Salt and Malt fish and chip café on the water’s edge at Chew Valley Lake. Great food served all day from breakfast to supper and views come for free while you eat cod and chips, sandwiches, afternoon tea or steamed mussels. Yum! On the Mendip Trail walking and cycling route that connects six pubs serving Butcombe ales, find The Lamb in Axbridge, a 15th-century coaching dishing up pub grub and local tipples. Where to visit in the Mendips No visit to the Mendips would be complete without a trip to Cheddar Gorge, whose limestone cliffs cut a jagged course through the middle of the AONB. There's no doubt that Cheddar Gorge is stunning and definitely deserving of the attention it receives from visitors to the region, but there are many other exciting and entertaining things to see and do in the area which will reward visitors who hang around in the Mendips a little longer. There are gardens, lakes, beauty spots and fascinating museums detailing the region's history, geology, archaeology and industry. At King John’s Hunting Lodge in medieval Axbridge the history of the area is laid out with exhibits that give an insight into pre-history, Roman and Saxon heritage and there is a museum shop, too. The caves of Wookey Hole and Cheddar need little introduction: find the Witch of Wookey, a valley where dinosaurs roamed and a fairy garden at the former; the ‘Cheddar Man’, a 3-mile cliff-top circular walk and a 274-step lookout tower at the latter. Milton Lodge Garden hosts plant sales and on certain days each year, the National Gardens Scheme. There are terraces, a lily pond and a layout that is perfectly angled to take in the beautiful view of Wells Cathedral and the Vale of Avalon. Things to do in the Mendips The geology of the Mendips - with its cavernous gorges and network of caves, its rugged landscape and meandering rivers - lends itself to a fantastic variety of outdoor activities. Not surprisingly, the area is very popular with potholders and cavers and enthusiasts come from miles around to experience the thrill of scrambling underground here. The open, windswept plateaus also make fantastic biking terrain and the dense woodland and grasslands are perfect for bush foraging and nature walking. With Walk the Mendips you can spend a day immersed in learning about the natural world with people who have been running training events for over 30 years. Wild food foraging, Camp-fire craft, Archery, Bushcraft… take your pick and organise your companions. There is a similar vibe at Mendip Outdoor Pursuits where you can learn to snowboard, ski, kayak, climb, abseil and much, much more… There are residential courses and it is an approved partner for the Duke of Edinburgh Award scheme. The more adventurous among visitors may look to expert Chris Binding for a caving and climbing experience. He says “caving is the next best thing to being on another planet and a sensory overload”. How to get to and around the Mendip Hills without a car If you're coming from the east or north of the UK, the main train stations serving the Mendips are Bristol Temple Meads and Weston-super-Mare, and with regular connections from London and elsewhere in the country. There are no train lines within the AONB and bus services are fairly limited, but with a little careful planning, it is possible to get around by public transport. The regular bus service 126 connects Weston-super-Mare, on the Mendips' westerly point, with Wells in the south-east of the AONB, calling at major towns and villages en route, including Sandford, Axbridge and Cheddar. There are also regular bus services from Bristol to Yatton on the northern edge of the Mendips. There are various walking and cycling routes throughout the area making it a relatively easy place to get around under your own steam. Quiet roads and footpaths throughout the area make cycling and walking an enjoyable way to get from A to B. For more idea of green holidays in the Mendip Hills, see our: Green Traveller’s Guide to the Mendip Hills AONB

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to the New Forest, Philippa Jacks spends a day on a conservation volunteering break with the New Forest Area Conservation Volunteers. As my saw cuts through the trunk of a healthy young ash tree and I watch my first sapling crash to the forest floor, I don’t feel like much of a friend to wildlife. Jan Anderson and her team from the New Forest Area Conservation Volunteers (NFACV) assure me it’s important to remove the most slender of these trees, to give other species a chance, but it certainly feels a little destructive to start with.
 Carefully identifying ash by the black tips on its twigs (and trying not to decimate hazel and oak in the process), I soon master use of the saw and loppers and begin to find the strenuous labour and gleeful yelling of “timber” rather therapeutic. I’ve joined the NFACV on a sunny morning at Roydon Woods in Setley near Brockenhurst - just one of many sites across the forest where volunteers give up their Sundays to plant trees, build paths, pick litter and clear invasive species. Tasks vary according to the season, and today is the last chance to take out saplings before birds begin to nest. The sawing and carrying of branches is hard work, but we take time out to identify different birds by their song, and to spy upon a family of shiny lizards, sunning themselves on a fallen log.
 Most of our merry band of volunteers are local people, and when we break for lunch and a chinwag, it's clear how passionate they are about preserving the wildlife which has given them such pleasure over the years. But visitors to the New Forest are also invited to volunteer their time, even for a single session, and you only need to bring a packed lunch, suitable clothing and a willingness to get your hands dirty. Spaces for visitor-volunteers are limited to five per session so check the NFACV website and make contact in plenty of time. Where to stay Daisybank Cottage in nearby Brockenhurst is the perfect base from which to explore the New Forest and, being just a few minutes walk from Brockenhurst station, it's ideal for those travelling without a car. Since opening last year, charming hosts Cheryl and Ciaran have welcomed guests ranging from birdwatchers and cyclists to

 horseriders and honeymooners. The boutique B&B has proven particularly conducive to a romantic break, with several couples getting engaged during their stay. Each of the three en-suite double rooms are kitted out with a coffee machine, iPod docking station and a small fridge, and guests are welcomed by home-baked cupcakes and local treats like New Forest Biscotti. Daisybank is a member of the New Forest Green Leaf Scheme and sources as much produce as possible from local suppliers. There are 12 restaurants within walking distance from Daisybank; I recommend the cook-it-yourself Hot Rocks menu at The Snakecatche. Rooms are priced from £45 per person per night including a delicious 'New Forest Breakfast'. Brockenhurst train station is 1 hour 29 minutes from London Waterloo.

As we launch our Greentraveller's Guide to Suffolk Coast and Heaths, Juliette Dkye enjoys a spot of birdwatching at RSPB Minsmere. This is not my average Monday morning. I’m sitting in a darkened bird hide, surrounded by grown men dressed in full camouflage, brandishing paparazzi length camera lenses, and I’m peering through some borrowed binoculars at a clump of brown reeds. Allegedly, there’s a highly secretive, expertly concealed bird nesting in there that may or may not, during the course of today, deign to appear to us for a couple seconds when it goes looking for some lunch. Sound like much fun? Well actually, it is. I’m at RSPB Minsmere on the Suffolk coast, the organisation’s flagship nature reserve which has been protecting some our rarest bird species since 1947. In fact, it was here that avocets were seen breeding on British shores for the first time in 100 years and they are now the emblem of the RSPB. Whilst we sit in wait for this elusive bittern, my fellow birdwatchers and I are having a whale of a time. There’s a surprisingly sociable atmosphere, as they share twiching tips and flasks of tea, point excitedly as a marsh harrier or a hobby appears on the horizon, and chat about the previous day’s otter sightings. It’s not surprising that the hide is so busy, as this part of the Suffolk coast is a bit of a birdwatching mecca. The RSPB has identified over 400 bird species in the Suffolk area, and it is packed with wildlife hot spots including many Sites of Specific Scientific Interest and three National Nature Reserves including Dingle Marshes, Walberswick and Hen Reedbed. Minsmere itself is a great place to start, having recently re-opened following a £2m makeover with a new visitor centre and café, plus a Discovery Centre and Wild Zone Activity Area for children. Some of the trails and hides have also been adapted for wheelchairs and pushchairs, so that everyone can have access to the fantastic variety of wildlife that passes through here. To make the most of your visit, come equipped with a set of binoculars or hire them from reception as it will make a big difference to what you can see and enjoy. And be prepared for the fact that it can become a highly addictive pastime. I am now a bonafide bird watcher and am not going to fight it anymore, but embrace it. Though I do draw the line at wearing a full-body camouflage suit. Where to stay The family run Blyth Hotel is a beautiful Edwardian building just five minutes walk from the centre of Southwold. There are 13 rooms, ranging from a singles to spacious suites which come with luxurious touches such as the double-ended jacuzzi spa bath, leather sofa and iPod dock in the Southwold Suite. All the rooms have been styled with Laura Ashley furnishings but still retain their individual character. The Managers, Richard and Charlie Ashwell, care passionately about encouraging sustainable tourism in Suffolk and are members of the Green Tourism Business Scheme, which gave them a Bronze Award for their efforts to reduce the hotel’s carbon footprint. Relax with a drink in the light and airy bar before heading to the main restaurant or outdoor terrace for dinner, where I enjoyed a wonderful, smoked local mackerel and potato salad, accompanied by buttery seasonal vegetables and warm homemade bread. Southwold itself is close by, and if you fancy a change of scene then try the warm and welcoming Lord Nelson Pub for a wide choice of local Adnams beers and order a helping of their unmissable fish and chips. By Juliette Dyke

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to the Kent Downs, Paul Bloomfield picks out a selection of cafés, restaurants, pubs and local food in this glorious Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty in southeast England. What an epicurean land. Enjoy the bounty of the Kent Downs: freshly picked asparagus from April to June; strawberries from June to August; cherries in July; apples and pears newly harvested in September and October - and much, much more. From organic vegetarian cafes to tea rooms, pubs and innovative restaurants, local produce features prominently on the menus of this selection of venues. Taste your way around the region, calling in at appealingly atmospheric places in the process.There's a retro tea shop at a lighthouse (the scones are mouth-wateringly good, too), a pub that began life as a monastic brewery, a wonderful café in a medieval castle; and a 200-year-old inn hidden down a maze of lanes. We’ve also highlighted some of the best farm shops in the Kent Downs along with farmers’ markets where you can stock up for picnics in the glorious downs beyond. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Travel Guide to Kent Downs: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places to eat in Kent Downs Mrs Knott’s Tea Room at The Lighthouse Standing high over Kent’s white cliffs at St Margaret’s Bay, South Foreland Lighthouse is a spectacular landmark. Built largely in the 1830s, it was the first lighthouse in the country to use electric light. Today it is run by the National Trust, which has opened the former lighthouse keeper’s cottage as a tea room styled with 1950s décor and crockery. You get proper, old-fashioned afternoon tea here – of the loose leaf variety served in a teapot and accompanied by freshly baked scones and lashings of cream. nationaltrust.org.uk/south-foreland-lighthouse Veg Box Café This vegetarian and vegan haven in Canterbury bases most of its menu on whatever is sent in veggie boxes from Perry Court Farm near Wye – a producer priding itself on using sustainable farming methods. When available, responsibly foraged wild ingredients from the region are also sourced, from watercress to mushrooms and herbs. Open from 10am to 6pm, the café is a relaxing venue for coffee (with great cakes on offer) and lunches of organic and biodynamic bakes. thevegboxcafe.co.uk The Plough at Ivy Hatch What a wonderfully relaxing place. Set in the hamlet of Ivy Hatch near Sevenoaks, The Plough is a laid-back inn some 200 years old, with open fires, leather armchairs – and an impressive selection of gins. Its much applauded, very seasonal menu is almost entirely based on what’s available from local suppliers: raspberries from Roughway Farm; venison from Chart Farm; vegetables from Watts Farm. The pub is a hop and skip from beautifully preserved Ightham Mote, one of Britain’s finest medieval properties, and is in prime walking and cycling country. theploughivyhatch.co.uk Kings Head The small town of Wye near Ashford is pretty and vibrant in equal measure – it’s a place on the up and there’s a real buzz here. At its heart is The Kings Head, which was very down at heel when Mark Lightford and Scott Richardson acquired it a couple of years ago. They have transformed the pub into an appealingly retro-yet-modern outfit with a relaxing bar/restaurant serving good bistro dishes and with four very comfy bedrooms (with plans for a further four). Great care has been taken to keep the character of the old inn and to use as much of the traditional furniture as possible. The food is just as sensitively devised – most of it very locally sourced: bread from Wye Bakery opposite; sausages from Wye Butcher two doors down; chutneys and pickles from the Wooden Spoon Perserving Company in Wye. Come for a walking break here (the Pilgrims Way passes through town) and arrive by public transport: Wye station is just down the road. kingsheadwye.com The Tiger Inn You wiggle down narrow lanes between Ashford and Folkestone to reach this bucolic, very rural pub. It’s close to the North Downs Way and welcomes walkers –in winter woodburning stoves add an extra-cosy mood, while in summer there’s a generous terrace for outdoor dining. Landlords Emma Oliver and Ben Jarvis are champions of local producers such as Crunden for vegetables and Davies Bakery in Ashford. The menu offers pub classics mainly based on free range or organic ingredients. Dogs are welcome here and riders can feel free to tether their horse to the railings outside. tigerinn.co.uk The Black Robin Named after a legendary highwayman, The Black Robin is an atmospheric 18th-century inn overlooking fields on the edge of Kingston near Canterbury. It was acquired by business partners Ben Lavers and Tom Wakefield in February 2014 and they have carefully devised it as a lively venue both for music and for food. Lavers is a chef and his well-priced menus offer classy pub fare drawing on the produce of the area. Evening meals might include beef cheek bourguignon and haunch of venison; Sunday lunches are treat of roasts. theblackrobinpub.com The Granville At Lower Hardres near Canterbury, Phil and Gabrielle Harris run this tastefully presented pub very much as a local and also as an epicurean restaurant, which is no mean juggling act. They bake their own bread here – and indeed make as much as possible from scratch (sauces, ice creams and more) – and search out the best of local suppliers. Giving classic British food a contemporary twist here and there, the menu might include chicken (from Waterham Farm) with truffle cream sauce, or wild sea bass with curried spinach. thegranvillecanterbury.co.uk Halfway House With a large garden and a generous, well-priced menu, this traditional pub on the outskirts of Challock (on the A251 between Ashford and Faversham) is an excellent venue for families. Dishes are beautifully presented, particularly the imaginatively devised desserts. Fish is a speciality, just in from the Kentish coast; steaks and grills are sourced from local farms; there’s also a blackboard menu highlighting seasonal produce. A ‘Young Diners’ menu is offered to children. halfwayhousechallock.co.uk The Plough Inn, Stalisfield Green Set high on the downs near Faversham, this is a quintessential country pub – with low beams, log fires and a great sense of history (The Plough dates from the 15th century or even before). Richard and Marianne Baker acquired the property in 2013 and have won a big local following for their dedication to serving honest food zinging with Kentish flavour (he’s the mastermind in the kitchen, she’s front of house). Everything, from bread to ketchup and ice cream, is made here. Menus depend, of course, on what’s in season and dishes might range from asparagus with duck egg to vegetable pasty with red cabbage and hazelnut cream. Sunday roasts (beef, lamb, pork) are a treat. theploughinnstalisfield.co.uk The Wife of Bath Locals were aghast when this much-loved restaurant changed hands in 2014. But under the management of part-owner Stefano Girolami, The Wife of Bath has become even better. For a great taste of the area, try the special market menu. The interior has been carefully refurbished to show off old timbers and open up window seating, and a new conservatory is being completed in 2015 for summer dining. thewifeofbath.com The Bistro at Lympne Castle Talented chef Ruth Denzey moved her restaurant from the family farm at Burwash to this medieval castle near Folkestone in July 2014. Dating back to the 13th century it’s an impressive property and was formerly open only for weddings and functions. Now you can come for breakfast, coffee, lunch and tea Monday to Saturday and for dinner on Friday and Saturday nights. From pheasant terrine to slow-roast pork with damson gravy, dishes reflect the seasons and are subject to what is freshly available. thebistro-kent.co.uk The Marquis at Alkham A contemporary-chic restaurant with (10) rooms, The Marquis is a 200-year inn jauntily set opposite the church at Alkham, just a few miles inland from Dover. You’re served top-notch 21st-century food here. The a la carte menu might include roast duck with local rainbow chard, or wild mushroom risotto - with most dishes based on produce from the area. Yet for a really great taste of the Kent Downs opt for the four-course Kent Menu which reflects local harvests, what’s been foraged that day, and what nearby producers have available. marquisofgranby.co.uk Rocksalt Mark Sargeant is very much a local food hero. Born and raised in Kent, he has worked as a top chef in London, most notably for Gordon Ramsay for whom he worked for 13 years –at Ramsay’s Claridges restaurant he was awarded a Michelin star. In 2011 he returned to Kent and opened two restaurants in Folkestone: The Smokery and Rocksalt. The latter is a very stylish property cantilevered around the harbour and presenting superb views. Just a glance at the menu will show how much Sargeant revels in the area: fish is mostly dependent on the catch just in; chicken is from Monkshill Farm near Faversham; eggs are from Horton Park Farm near Ashford. Even some of the wine is local - from Gusbourne Estate near Ashford. rocksaltfolkestone.co.uk The Allotment What a brilliantly feel-good concept. Chef and proprietor Dave Flynn set up this innovative restaurant in 2007 with a plot-to-pot ethos of encouraging local allotment owners to sell their excess fruit and veg to him. And keeping to a local theme he buys his meat from producers on the Kent Downs. The menu is of course extremely seasonal – and might include roasted aubergine with puy lentils and horseradish cream, and five-hour roasted pork belly with apple and fennel. theallotmentdover.co.uk Macknade Fine Foods Much loved locally, this large epicurean centre on the fringes of Faversham is a family business offering fine food largely from Kent and Italy. Now run by Stefano Cuomo, it was set up by his father, a native of the Italian island of Ischia, who created a Pick Your Own farm on land that was formerly an orchard belonging to his wife’s family. Today that operation has become a vibrant shop, offering customers ready picked local produce – whatever is in season ‒ as well as a great range of groceries along with charcuterie, artisan bread from a micro-bakery in Faversham, goat cheese from Ellie’s Dairy nearby, Winterdale Shaw cheddar from the Kent Downs near Sevenoaks – and much, much more. macknade.com The Goods Shed This chic foodie operation is set in an old warehouse by Canterbury West station. It contains a great celebration of Kentish produce, with a couple of cafes and a stylish selection of food and drink outlets. There’s a central veg stall which is supplied by nursery farms no more than 12 miles away; there’s a fish stall with just-caught offerings from the coast around Dover; meat is from carefully selected farms; cheese is presented by Cheesemakers of Canterbury; wine from Press Wine Services includes Kentish grown and made wines. thegoodsshed.co.uk Chart Farm Shop Since 1981 the Petersen family has been farming deer at Chart Farm, which lies across woodland and pastures near Sevenoaks. About 1,200 fallow and silka deer are raised here, free to roam in a semi-wild environment. The Petersens established butchery on site partly to ensure good flavour of this healthy meat and partly as an extension of their ethical farming, keeping the animals stress free. This has developed into an enterprise with a farm shop at which you can buy not only venison but also beef, lamb, game, even wild boar and apple sausages, supplied by other farms in the area. chartfarm.com Winterdale Cheesemakers The Betts family hasn’t looked back since 2006 when cheese production started on their 150-acre dairy farm high on the North Downs near Sevenoaks. Among their products, they make two award-winning varieties: Winterdale Shaw, which is a lemony, nutty cheddar; and mellow Winterdale Oak Smoked. They are proudly carbon-neutral here and also monitor their food miles – they market only within a 30-mile radius (which happily for them includes London). You can find their cheese at delis and farm shops around Kent but nothing quite matches a visit to the source: the Winterdale cheese barn is open on Saturday mornings. winterdale.co.uk For information on local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Kent Downs AONB

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to the Kent Downs, Paul Bloomfield picks out a selection of walking, cycling, wildlife-watching and art courses in this glorious Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty in southeast England. For those looking for a varied landscape to romp and pedal around, the ribbon of countryside that is the Kent Downs seems to have it all: rolling river valleys, lofty escarpments, chalky cliffs at Dover and dense woodlands which can be discovered via some fantastic walking and cycling routes which take in spectacular scenery, pretty Kent villages and dramatic views from clifftops. There are also plenty of opportunities for wildlife watching in the area, so why not join a guided wildlife walk and spot birds, bees and bugs – and soak up the countryside at the same time. If you'd rather be working your hands instead of your feet, how about taking inspiration from the landscape and turning it into a work of art on a pottery, ceramic painting or spinning and weaving workshop? We show you how to get creative in the Kent Downs. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Travel Guide to Kent Downs: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Activities in Kent Downs Walk Awhile Want to tackle a long-distance route but don't fancy the prospect of lugging your bags around with you? Why not join a trek with this friendly, family-run business which specialises in self-led and guided hoildays along some of the region's finest walking routes. Choose from the Pilgrims Way, North Downs Way – a 5-day, 45-mile trek from historic Rochester Cathedral to Canterbury, passing through a swathe of the stunning Kent Downs AONB countryside – the White Cliffs Tour, which passes Napoleonic forts and Iron Age settlements, or the Discover Rural Kent Tour, as well as many other walking routes. Walks are geared to all abilities, whether you're looking for a leisurely amble or a challenging hike. walkawhile.co.uk White Cliffs Countryside Partnership White Cliffs Countryside offers an exciting range of wildlife courses, guided walks and educational events within the AONB. Spot wildlife on a spring walk at Folkestone Warren, encounter migrant birds at Samphire Hoe, sign up for a bumblebee identification workshop, or join a family bug walk and discover the world of the minibeast! Spread across some of the AONB's most beautiful spots, the courses and events are great fun for all the family. whitecliffscountryside.org.uk Natural Pathways This outdoor activity outfit has been organising courses in bushcraft and survival skills for nearly fifteen years. As well as offering a whole range of basic survival courses aimed at adults, families and corporate groups, they also run an animal tracking course – a 3-day event during which you'll learn how to track and stalk animals through the woodland by reading, interpreting and following signs. There's an Animal Wisdom Day specifically aimed at children where budding David Attenborough's will be taught how to identify animal prints and learn how to move as silently as a fox through the undergrowth. Plenty of fun for all the family. natural-pathways.co.uk Kent Wildlife Trust The Kent Wildlife Trust looks after 3,000 hectares of nature reserve land, promoting conservation and wildlife protection and generating awareness of Kent's natural heritage through events, campaigns and courses held throughout the region. Their packed events programme includes things such as beaver evenings and butterfly craft events - great ways to get children involved in nature, whilst their Living Landscape and Living Seas projects aim to reconnect local residents with their natural surroundings. Their work in managing nature reserves has seen some great results, notably the return of the Adonis blue butterfly. kentwildlifetrust.org.uk Aylesford Pottery If you've ever wanted to try your hand at pot throwing, you'd be hard pressed to find a better place to give it a go than the Aylesford School of Ceramics run by Mark and Billy, experienced, energetic, and completely potty about pottery. The pair offer courses to suit everyone, from one-day workshops and team-buildings events to longer 10-week courses. Of course you don't have to sign up for a course – visitors are welcome to pop by and watch the potters at work and browse the ceramics for sale in the studio. aylesfordpottery.co.uk Annie Begley From pet portraits and ceramic sculptures to painted tiles and murals, Anne has an unwavering passion for clay and canvas. Kent born and bred, Anne studied in London before returning to her roots, taking inspiration for her work from the surrounding countryside and wildlife. When she's not creating a work of art, Anne can be found helping aspiring potters throw pots on her 'Hands at Work' workshops, held at her studio in Wingmore. Suitable for all ages and abilities, from complete novices to those with more advanced pot throwing skills, the workshops teach basic hand-building techniques. anniebegley.co.uk This Art of Mine You couldn't pick a more inspirational setting to get creative and crafty. Set on a beautiful flower farm in deepest rural Kent, the light and airy studio hosts ceramic painting every weekend, as well as workshops for both adults and children, corporate events and children's parties throughout the year. At the helm is mother and daughter team Gemma and Kate, who are supported by a host of talented artists and tutors teaching across a variety of mediums, from watercolour to ceramic. thisartofmine.co.uk Hilltop Spinning Sue and Bill Chitty have been in the spinning, weaving and dyeing trade since 1974 and specialising in textile equipment such as spinning wheels and loom accessories since 1990. Sue Chitty now runs spinning courses from her home in the North Downs. Whether you're an experienced weaver after some extra tuition or a complete novice, Sue will gear the class to your ability. handspin.co.uk Wye Community Farm Launched in 2007, this community farm was established to encourage local communities to reconnect with where their food comes from and provides volunteering and training opportunities in farming and rural crafts as well as hosting school visits, open days and farm walks. The project farms 120 acres for meat boxes, firewood, and homegrown preserves. Produce can be bought at the Wye Farmers' Market. wyecommunityfarm.org.uk For information on local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Kent Downs AONB

Introducing the Peak District Environmental Quality Mark - a certification award that can only be achieved by businesses actively supporting good environmental practices in their local area - in the Peak District and Staffordshire. The Peak District Environmental Quality Mark (EQM) is the first award of its kind in England. Throughout Europe, there are a plethora of eco-labels that tourism businesses can apply for, but the EQM is different. It aims to give a seal of approval to businesses that are looking after both the global and local environment, at the same time as providing a high quality visitor experience. This is because the EQM is a location-based award specifically for the Peak District that enables local businesses to demonstrate how they use and enhance the landscape in a sustainable way, to increase the satisfaction of visitors and customers. Award-holders have demonstrated that they conserve and enhance the special characteristic features of the Peak District National Park and use products grown or made locally, while achieving high standards of care for the environment in the more global sense we’re all familiar with – reducing their energy consumption, their waste and their water usage for example. In this way, by specifically looking after the land and the places we love to visit, they are contributing both to environmental quality and the quality of the visitor experience. Appreciation of the UK’s protected areas as places to visit depend on maintaining a high quality, aesthetically pleasing and distinctive landscape – an experience that you can’t get anywhere else. Examples of special landscape features that EQM businesses are helping to conserve are for example, wildflower meadows, special habitat for birds and wildlife, moors, dales, woodlands, dry stone walls and traditional buildings. Because the award is not limited to traditional tourism businesses but includes for example food and arts and crafts producers, farms, wooden furniture and textile makers, there is huge scope for enjoying a greener holiday all round, through the use of EQM businesses. For example Losehill House Hotel & Spa hold and Rowley’s Restaurant and Bar both hold the EQM award. To create distinctive, tasty food menus that reflect the local area and link the visitor to the landscape, they might very well decide to use fellow EQM award holder Big Fernyford Farm who using traditional husbandry methods on land managed in an environmentally sensitive way, for their meat. This kind of sourcing between EQM businesses not only supports the local environment and creates a sense of place for the customer, but is great for the area’s own economy and local livelihoods. All good news for a greener holiday. Examples of other EQM businesses include Cowclose Farm, a 200-year old farmhouse B&B in Chesterfield, Secret Cloud House Holidays, a trio of traditional yurts in the Derbyshire Dales and Peak Organics, a centre offering organic gardening workshops and sessions in Darley Dale. The Peak District EQM has been recognised as a robust scheme by recently being validated by the International Centre for Responsible Tourism on behalf of VisitEngland – only the second such scheme to do so after the Green Tourism Business Scheme. Director Faith Johnson, (who ran the scheme for the Peak District National Park Authority), says: “We really believe in the Environmental Quality Mark as a way of helping the guest and the customer discover a more authentic and fun experience in the Peak District.  What comes through when we are assessing Environmental Quality Mark businesses is how truly passionate they are about this fantastic part of England.  They are proud of the amazing place where they live and work and they love to share everything that is special about it with you – their customer. "The scheme is also validated by VisitEngland, which means we have undergone a rigorous verification process to ensure that we operate to high standards, the EQM is ‘fit for purpose’ and that claims of sustainability and environmental friendliness made by award holders are genuine.” There are currently over 60 EQM members and the scheme is growing as more businesses demonstrate their commitment to the Peak District National Park. Whether or not it is through eco-labels or awards like this, Greentraveller welcomes place-based approaches that integrate good environmental practices with providing a better holiday experience and a genuine appreciate of the destination’s cultural and natural features. Look out for the EQM logo next time you are visiting the Peak District National Park.

As we launch our Green Traveller's Guide to the Yorkshire Dales, Jane Dunford tries her hand at woodworking and creates a deer out of local green wood on a workshop at Strid Wood on the Bolton Abbey Estate in the Yorkshire Dales National Park It’s early in the morning in Strid Wood on the Bolton Abbey Estate, and I’m gazing at a pile of stubby logs deciding which to pick for the body of the wooden deer I’m about to create. ‘The ones with the moss on give it a bit of a furry look,’ says Richard Law, aka ‘the bodger of Strid Wood’, a green woodworker who’s my instructor for the day.  So, a mossy one it is… Along with five others, I’m here on a half-day course, learning to make a forest creature out of local green wood. The workshop looks like something out of the Hobbit, a charming wood-frame structure with tarpaulin stretched overhead, surrounded by ancient forest, with the River Wharfe bubbling along closeby. It’s a magical place to spend a morning. After tea and introductions we’re soon beavering away, shaping animal legs out of sticks on the shave horse, gauging holes with the aguer and learning a bit about the natural landscape. Richard – who looks the part with his clogs, flat cap and grey beard – has had his workshop here for five years, selling everything from bowls to spoons to passersby, working on commissions and running courses (there’s something for all levels and it’s affordable – £30 for 10am-2pm, with lunch too). He helps with woodland management in return for the space, thinning trees and using the timber where he can. ‘It works with the landscape, it’s low-tech and fits in – it’s become an attraction for Bolton Abbey in its own right,’ he says. Indeed it’s an unusual site, and walkers passing by stop to check out what’s going on and admire (or laugh at) our efforts. After a bowl of homemade soup we’re onto the final stretch – and then comes the moment of truth – assembling bodies, heads, necks, legs and antlers. I wouldn’t say I’m a natural woodworker, but after a bit of coaxing my deer stands steady and actually I’m pretty pleased. We wander off, wooden animals under arm, to explore a bit more of the Bolton Abbey Estate. Covering over 30,000 acres, it belongs to the Duke of Devonshire, and with 80 miles of footpaths and woodlands, reservoirs, moors and fell it’s great for walking. We head to the atmospheric ruins of the 12th century priory, where sunlight streams through the stained glass and the sound of the organ echo in the air. There are several places to stay within the estate and our home for the night is The Devonshire Arms Country House Hotel & Spa. With parts of the original coaching inn dating from the early 1600s, it’s all beamed ceilings and old world charm – our room has a four-poster bed that you practically need a ladder to climb on to. Across the road the barn has been converted into a lovely spa, with pool and Jacuzzi – perfect for a bit of pampering after a day out hiking. The Devonshire Arms is also a place that takes its environmental efforts seriously. Head concierge Eddie Styles, who leads the green initiatives, shows me around the kitchen garden where he’s started keeping bees. With a stream and benches, it’s a pretty place to linger. He’s devised some great schemes – discarded toiletries are given to local churches, which have open days offering the homeless a chance to come in for a hot shower. Coloured milk bottle tops are collected and sent to Gambia where they’re used as education tools and recycling is run with precision. ‘They’re small things, but they all add up and do actually make a difference,’ says Eddie. One of the key draws of the hotel is a Michelin-starred Burlington Restaurant. The less formal, colourful Devonshire Brasserie is a treat too – produce for both is sourced as locally as possible. We tuck into venison from the estate with blackberry jus and then wend our way up stairs to the four-poster and the soundest nights sleep I’ve had for ages. Double rooms start at £250 for B&B, with use of Health Barn.

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Nidderdale, Jane Dunford enjoys this beautiful Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) in the heart of the Yorkshire Dales in the company of a furry four-legged friend, Morgan - no, not a dog, or a horse: Morgan is, in fact, a very loveable llama. It’s not the kind of animal you’d expected to encounter on a farm in the Yorkshire Dales. Sheep, yes, cows, of course. But here I am on Kiln Farm near Pateley Bridge in Nidderdale, about to take a llama for a walk. One of the more unusual attractions in the AONB, Nidderdale Llamas happened by accident, explains owner Suzanne Benson. ‘I was at a livestock sale intending to buy a pony for the farm, but somehow ended up with a llama – I just couldn’t resist it – and, after a lot of research, the idea of trekking with llamas grew from there!’ Opened in 2009 with just three llamas, NIdderdale Llamas has grown to a herd of 18 – as well as a pet village for smaller animals – and anything from day treks into the countryside, to shorter educational on-site experiences are on offer. I opt for the On Farm Trek, which starts with Suzanne introducing us to the llamas and telling us about their history and behaviour. Originally from South America, they adapt to life in Yorkshire surprisingly well. Sensitive and intelligent animals, they’ve distinctive characters and roles in the llama community, from Noodle the moody teenager to Ike, aka Drama Llama, who likes a lot of attention. We learn that llamas can protect sheep and chicken from predators (they act as guards, chasing foxes away), and they communicate with three tones of hum (a Christmas CD with llamas ‘singing’ was in production). They may ‘spit’ at each other to show their disapproval, but humans aren’t the target. I’m allocated Morgan, an older male with gentle demeanour and ridiculously long eyelashes, and we set off on a trek around the farm. You don’t ride the llamas, but lead as they walk by your side - there’s something oddly calming about the whole thing. The farm and surrounding area is beautiful and we follow tracks across fields and over gentle hills, the pace slow, attracting some inquisitive looks from walkers passing by. For anyone wanting a longer trek, you can sign up for a day trip to Brimham Rocks, stopping for tea in the woods along the way and a picnic lunch when you reach the amazing rock formations. Our hour and a half trek soon comes to an end, and back at the llama barn I find myself a tad sad to be saying goodbye to Morgan. ‘It’s hard to say what it is about llama trekking, but people really do form bonds with the animals – and it’s fun and relaxing. I guess really it’s all about enjoying the landscape in a different, slightly surreal way!’ says Suzanne. Details: Experiences range from the Llama Farm Experience (£12.50 adults) to the Day Trek to Brimham Rocks (£75 adults). Minimum age of 10 years on farm trek and 12 years on other treks. www.nidderdalellamas.org Where to eat and drink: If llama trekking is on the more unusual side of Nidderdale’s attractions, a good traditional Yorkshire ale is one of the staples – so I head to the stone-built Wellington Inn in nearby Darley to refuel. With sprawling beer garden, it’s an amazing place for an outdoor pint in the summer, but in winter the cosy bar with open fireplace beckons for a pint or two of Black Sheep. The restaurant here is renowned in the area – it prides itself on locally sourced food. The starter of smoked chicken, bacon and avocado salad is prettily presented, while the ribeye steak is tasty and perfectly cooked. If you don’t feel like moving far after your meal check into one of the rooms attached to the pub. Where to stay: Head north across the moors from Nidderdale Llamas in Wilsill and you’ll come to the little village of Kirkby Malzeard, where I check into the lovely Cowscot House B&B. Set on a smallholding of four and a half acres with pigs, lambs, sheep, cows and chickens, the converted barn dates back 200 years. It’s super-comfortable with old wooden floorboards, squishy beds and lots of attention to detail. Owners Liz and Mike are welcoming hosts – and the breakfasts are huge and delicious. Much is homemade, from the yoghurt to the winter compote, and even the sausages. Mike’s paintings of the local area hang on the walls in the hall – nice keepsakes of a trip to Nidderdale. From £80 for a double room.

Nantes is the capital of the Pays de la Loire and is a fascinating historic city - it once rivalled Rennes as capital of the old Duchy province of Brittany. It is now one of the most artistically creative cities in France, and in 2013 it will be celebrating its hard-won award as Europe's Green Capital, thanks in no small part to a wonderfully joined-up public transport network, including trains, trams and a comprehensive city bike hire scheme. Nantes may often be overlooked by holidaymakers heading to the more famous cities of France, but it's a great place to go, especially if you're looking for a city break by train as it's less than six hours from London. Here are a few of things saw on my recent trip to the city as part of our SprInterRail Activities Adventure around Europe with RailEurope. Watch my 2-minute video of the trip to Nantes: What to do in Nantes Le Voyage à Nantes From June to September, Nantes’ public spaces and heritage sites will be turned upside down and inside out as the annual art festival - Le Voyage à Nantes - takes over the city. Expect eye-catching installations, awe-inspiring works of art, mini festivals, special river cruises, and temporary exhibitions, some of which may find a permanent place in the city. The Nantes Pass offers free admission to 30 top attractions, as well as free travel by public transport and lots of VIP extras. Giant mechanical art Over at the old dockyards, the artistic mind of Nantes has run riot. Where ships once stood, now monumental mechanical animals and structures roam free. This 337-hectare site is now home to a 12-metre high walking elephant, a 7-metre long, walkable ‘tree branch’ which extends out of a warehouse, a heron with an 8-metre wingspan, and dozens of galleries, workshops and warehouses, where you can watch these fantastic creations being brought to life. This is one of those places which has to be seen to be believed. A trail for culture vultures Le Voyage à Nantes Cultural Trail is the perfect way to get better acquainted with the city’s main attractions, as well as some of its lesser-known sites. Crossing Nantes from east to west, the five-mile route passes 30 permanent heritage sites, monuments and undiscovered treasures, from Nantes Cathedral to Tour Bretagne (which you can climb for a fantastic view of the city), as well as many of the art festival’s temporary creations. Take to the saddle With all its cycle lanes throughout the historical city, Nantes is very easy to bike around. The Nantes equivalent of Boris Bikes, Bicloo, are free for the first half hour. Spend a couple of hours exploring the the city's Latin Quarter, Bouffay, which takes in the Castle of the Dukes of Brittany, St Peter's and St Paul's Cathedral and some of the city's old timber framed houses. If you fancy a detour, head off-route to see the old LU biscuit factory (now a thriving arts centre and a great restaurant), the Fine Arts Museum, and the botanical gardens. A botanical beauty L'île de Versailles houses a charming Japanese garden that is one of the prettiest green spaces in Nantes. More adventurous travellers might like to explore the city's waterways by kayak or Indian canoe, which can be hired near the entrance from €3 for half an hour, or €14 for a full day. Where to eat La Civelle With views over the river in the city's village-like quarter of Trentemoult, La Civelle buzzes from morning to night. Inside, it's all burnished chrome and funky light fittings. Art decorates walls, staff serve contemporary market fare, like spiced smoked salmon. www.la-civelle.com La Cigale A wonderful art nouveau gem of a building which has been illuminating the city’s gastronomic scene for well over a century - the brasserie has become an historical monument in Nantes centre. The restaurant’s philosophy is underpinned by three words: Freshness, Quality, and Kindness, and has been the resident kitchen for the city's glitterati since it opened in 1895. locally sourced produce on the menu changes according to the season. www.lacigale.com To market Talensac Market, Nantes’ lively daily market, is housed in a long, bright building in the Talensac quarter just north of the city centre. It has over two hundred stalls producing a colourful array of local produce and specialities from throughout the region. If you're looking for a boulangerie for either breakfast or lunch, I recommend Le Grenier à Pain, near the entrance to the Japanese Botanical Gardens at L'île Versailles. Where to Stay Villa Hamster Easily the quirkiest place to stay in Nantes, if not all of France. A tiny space off one of the city's main squares has been converted into a famously eccentric B&B. It features a human-sized hamster wheel, an organic grain container, a water tube which guests can sip from, a double bed accessible only by scurrying up a step ladder and pair of masks and tails to really make the cage experience an authentic one. Despite the somewhat confined space, Villa Hamster is very popular, so if you're after a taste of hamster life you're advised to book early. Hôtel La Pérouse It’s always refreshing to find a design hotel with a sustainable soul. Everything about La Pérouse – from the über-sleek architecture, to the fair-trade breakfasts – is admirably green: even the clever air-conditioning system is designed to stop when a window is opened. If you’re desperate for a nose around but are staying elsewhere, fear not: every September the hotel opens its doors to the public during the National Heritage Open Day, when you can gaze and gawp to your heart’s content. www.hotel-laperouse.fr Hôtel Pommeraye This is where we stayed. It's a greener choice in the heart of Nantes' main shopping district. Verging on minimalist yet with a welcoming and cosy atmosphere, this 50-bedroomed hotel has wooden floors, contemporary furnishings, splashes of colour (fuchsia-pink chairs, terracotta walls), and spacious, comfortable bedrooms. It has been awarded Green Key status, and expect a lovely organic breakfast with bio jams, fresh fruit juice, pancakes and a variety of tea, including Earl Grey, hurrah! It’s very central too, so it’s convenient for the main train station (a couple of minutes by tram) and the city's Gare Routiere bus station (a 10-minute walk), and the city’s sights are on your doorstep. €64-€124 per night. www.hotel-pommeraye-nantes.com Manoir de la Régate Manoir de la Régate is an eco-friendly wonderland. The hotel is the creation of two brothers who have taken huge steps, catapulting the hotel onto the city’s green scene. There's a complex heating and ventilation system, solar panels everywhere, and heather and herb-covered roofs for insulation, amongst many of its green features. On the edge of the River Erdre, and with breath-taking views over the Château de la Gascherie on the opposite bank, the location is stunning too. Doubles start at €155. www.hotel-nantes-laregate.com Getting around by public transport The city centre is easy enough to get around on foot, but if you want to give tired feet a rest you'll find the city's tram, bus and ferry networks quick, efficient, and easy to use. The Nantes Pass is great value if you are staying in the city for at least a day, giving you free access to the transport network, as well as free entry to 30 of the city's top attractions and sights. The pass costs from £16.34 for 24 hours to £31.04 for 72 hours. The Bicloo bike scheme has 89 stations across the city and is free for the first half-hour, after which it's €0.50 up to an hour, €1.50 for up to 1.5 hours, and €2 per hour thereafter. How to get to Nantes by train From London St Pancras International Train Station, take the Eurostar to Paris Gare du Nord then transfer to Gare Montparnasse to take one of the regular direct services to Nantes, which takes roughly 2.15 hours. For more information on how to travel by train to Nantes, see our unique rail journey planner: Train from London to Nantes == Disclaimer: This blog post was researched and compiled by Florence Fortnam and Richard Hammond who were guests of www.spr-paysdelaloire.fr. They had full editorial control of this guide, which is written in their own words based on their experience of visiting Nantes in the spring of 2012. All opinions are the authors' own. Thanks to Virginie Priou and Katia Foret at www.spr-paysdelaloire.fr and Holland.com for hosting us.

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to West Sweden we've picked out a selection of local activities. Whether you're looking to kayak around the many islands that sit just off the coast, hike your way through ancient forests or take part in an organised woodland adventure, West Sweden has something for you. All throughout West Sweden there's the chance to take part in leisure activities of all types. The numerous lakes and networks of canals make for a fantastic place to canoe and kayak, while the acres of rolling hillsides and rugged coastline offer countless routes for walkers and hikers. What's more, you can delve into the forest and try your hand at everything from archery to scaling the treetops from the safety of a harness. If this all sounds a little strenuous, why not spend the day relaxing on a traditional Swedish fishing boat while the skipper hunts for lobster or oysters, then return to the shore to feast on the catches of the day. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to West Sweden: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Activities in West Sweden Lysekils Ostron Och Musslor Calling all mussel and oyster fans! Join Signe aboard his fishing boat in Lysekil for a tour of a local mussel farm, where you’ll learn how the mussels are grown and harvested; help Signe collect some mussels to enjoy later. Then it’s off an oyster bed, one of the very few on Bohuslan on the northernmost part of the country’s west coast, where the famous and exclusive Ostrea Edulis oysters grow. You’ll pick some and learn about the oyster, before heading back to dry land to cook up a feast on the rocks. An unforgettable experience in a stunning marine environment. lysekilsostronomusslor.se/ Lobster Safari, Bohuslän Nature's Best offer probably the least taxing activity on the list in Böhuslan. From the small fishing port of Grebbestad, guests board a traditional Swedish wooden boat called a 'Tuffa' (built in 1952 and licensed to carry 12 people) and head out with the skipper to find the perfect location for catching lobster. Guests are invited to get hands-on and help the skipper set the traps, but there's also the option to simply sit back and admire the west coast in all its glory. September the 20th marks the start of the lobster season and it can be quite a sight to catch the first of the boats racing off in search of the best spot. Brothers Lars and Peter Karlsson who operate the tours have lived in this area all their lives and are thus ideal local guides. They also identify sustainable fishing as one of their core ideals, making sure that the lobster are not over-fished. vastsverige.com/en/seafood-safaris/Seafood-safaris Smögen Fishing Trips This small operation runs fishing and boat trips from its base in the beautiful natural harbour of Smögen. There are various tours to choose from: go lobster fishing or crayfish fishing, before heading back with your catch and cook it up in the characterful boathouse. Alternatively, head out to the stunning Bohuslän archipelago and go bird and seal watching. They also run family fishing trips of 3 or 4 hours for the whole family to enjoy: youngsters will love pulling up the crab pots and catching mackerel, cod and pollock. smogensfisketurer.se/ Upplevelsebolaget Explore craggy archipelagos and sheltered bays by kayak, clamber up awesome granite crags for fabulous views, or mountain bike through dense forest: however you choose to get your thrills and explore west Sweden’s sublime landscape, this professional outlet has it covered. With fifteen years’ experience, the friendly team run courses, team building exercises and guided and self-guided trips catering for the novice and experienced alike in and around Uddevalla, one of west Sweden’s most beautiful areas. The knowledgeable guides will give you a wildlife tour en route, too. upplevelsebolaget.com/ Kayaking in the Koster & Fjällbacka Archipelago Ideal for novices and experienced paddlers alike, this 3 day guided kayaking trip with Nature Travels allows a unique look at the Koster and Fjällbacka Archipelago. The Koster Archipelago has more hours sunshine than any other location in Sweden, while the islands, rocks and skerries that make up the region have recently been designated Sweden's first Marine National Park. Because the network of Koster's islands is too complex for larger boats you'll have the area completely to yourselves, paddling at your leisure and pausing to admire the seals basking in the sun or the sight of Ursholmen lighthouse in the distance. You'll also explore the Fjällbacka Archipelago, on of the most sheltered areas of water in the region, meaning that even in windy conditions you can paddle through the inner channels, with your guide offering insight into the area's fascinating history. naturetravels.co.uk Self-Guided Sea Kayaking, Bohuslän Picture yourself paddling through calm waters, birds singing overhead and the Bohuslän archipelago stretching out in front of you. Kayaking in Bohuslän with Nature Travels combines elements of guided and self-guided trips - you'll receive only a map and a recommended route before setting out on your adventure. During the days you can negotiate the hundreds of islands that form the archipelago, while accommodation comes in the shape of remote campsites, some located on islands that are otherwise completely deserted. For those with kayaking experience, the guides can suggest a more challenging route. naturetravels.co.uk Hiking in Kynnefjäll This 4-day Nature Travels adventure holiday explores the Kynne Hills, Bohuslän's stunning section of forested hills and clear-water lakes. Comparable to the Taiga areas of northern Sweden, you'll cover between 17 and 20km per day, depending on the route. Some of the trails have been specially created by your hosts, and each morning you'll be given a new map and told the places of interest to look out for. The area is also rich in wildlife, and there's the chance to spot osprey overhead and listen out for the calls of the black-throated diver and golden plover. Take the days at your own pace, pausing to explore whatever you may find, with no definite itinerary to adhere to. The simple, 2-person cabin you'll use as your base has a fully-equipped kitchen as well as a wood-fired sauna and a private lake that's perfect for soothing your aching muscles. Evenings can be spent barbequeing your dinner over the open fire, relaxing next to the lake and gazing up at the starry skies. naturetravels.co.uk Upplevelsebolaget Explore craggy archipelagos and sheltered bays by kayak, clamber up awesome granite crags for fabulous views, or mountain bike through dense forest: however you choose to get your thrills and explore west Sweden’s sublime landscape, this professional outlet has it covered. With fifteen years’ experience, the friendly team run courses, team building exercises and guided and self-guided trips catering for the novice and experienced alike in and around Uddevalla, one of west Sweden’s most beautiful areas. The knowledgeable guides will give you a wildlife tour en route, too. upplevelsebolaget.com Kust Event This high-end outfit organises group trips and tailor-made tours of the archipelagos and marine national parks of Hvaler and Koster/Stromstad. Whether you want to learn about the history of the area and the archipelagos, go diving, indulge in a day of seafood and champagne or simply absorb the magical surroundings at your own pace, Kust Event will have a tour suited to you. Enjoy snorkelling in crystal-clear waters, barbeques on the beach at lunchtime, and captivating history lessons from this friendly, knowledgeable team. They can even cater for weddings and other organised events. Boats leave daily throughout the year. kustevent.com/sv/ Tipi Adventure in Dalsland This is the ultimate Swedish wilderness experience. The 4 day adventure with Nature Travels combines aspects of canoeing and kayaking, abseiling and the traditional 'Tre-kamp' competition that consists of axe-throwing, archery and air-rifle target shooting. After each adventure-filled day you'll be able to relax in a spacious tipi, cooking your own food over an open fire, plus there's also unlimited use of a rowing boat that can be used to catch fish on the lake. You'll also be able to test your nerves against Sweden's longest zip-line (220m through the treetops) and get up close and personal with the 'King of the Forest' at Dalsland's Moose Park. naturetravels.co.uk