As we launch our guide to Green Holidays in West Sweden, Rhiannon Batten goes camping in Dalsland, visits a fabulous new treehouse at Falköping, enjoys sumptuous local food, swims the Weather Islands off the west coast of Sweden and canoes around the island of Bassholmen. After a long train journey from London to West Sweden, we were looking for a way to unwind. We found it at Dalslands Activities, an outdoor centre around two hours’ drive northeast of Gothenburg. Our base for the night was a vast tipi perched beneath pine trees at the edge of a cool, clear lake and, though there were three other tipis around it, none were occupied the night we visited. After laying out our sleeping bags on the tipi’s reindeer skins, there was just time for a pre-dinner swim in the lake, giving us a chance to revel in the warm early evening sunshine, and the site’s peaceful solitude. If we assumed that this would be a rare moment of calm, we were wrong. This was our first stop on a week-long tour of some of the best of West Sweden’s green tourism experiences and we soon discovered that comfortable accommodation set close to nature, and inspired by it, is all but the region’s party trick. Take Villa Sjotorp, a cosy 10-room hotel and restaurant in Ljungskile, around an hour north of Gothenburg. Not only can guests look out over neighbouring “Freckles Fjord” from its genteel terrace but, in summer, you can scurry down to the bottom of the garden and swim from a small pebble beach. The food, too, is inspired by the surroundings, with sophisticated local, organic menus that include dishes such as potted crayfish from nearby Bohuslän with local vegetables and white fish casserole. It was a similar story at two new places to stay around Falköping, around an hour’s drive east of Ljungskile. Nästegårdens B&B opened earlier this year, having been refurbished sympathetically to the building’s mid 19th-century heritage (its two bedrooms feature delicate handmade wallpapers, ancient wooden floors and antique bedlinen) and is already attracting flocks of birdwatchers thanks to its location beside Hornborga Lake, famous for the tens of thousands of “dancing” cranes that migrate here each spring. For a bed that’s even closer to nature, we headed on to nearby Hotel Andrum, where owners Bo and Ann-Charlotte Ottoson have recently added a new treehouse suite, Seventh Heaven, to their business. “We love to sleep outside under the stars,” explained Ann-Charlotte, “but the weather isn’t always so good here in Sweden so this was our solution”. Just north of here is the Vänerkulle biosphere reserve, founded in September 2010, where new cycle routes and walking trails are being developed and linked in to various local sustainable tourism businesses, from cafes and restaurants to hostels and B&Bs (vanerkulle.org). It seems wrong to visit West Sweden without embracing its coastline, however. So, on our final few days we took to the water, first stop the windblown Weather Islands. Or rather, one of them, a clutch of little red cottages that clung tightly to the rocks about half an hour’s boat ride from Fjällbacka, 90 minutes’ drive north of Gothenburg. There is only one permanent resident on the island, a handyman, but it’s busier than you might expect thanks to the guesthouse and restaurant that have opened up in one of the island’s old pilot houses. There’s not much to do here besides taking blustery walks among the rocks or a swim in the jellyfish-speckled waters, holing up in the guesthouse’s hot tub or sauna or tucking into a beer and a plate of fresh shrimp. Which is exactly what draws so many peace-seeking regulars. Proving that you don’t have to dive into the water to get up close to nature in West Sweden, on our last day we met Joakim Hermanson from Upplevelsebolaget (“The Experience Company”) for a kayak tour around the island of Bassholmen. With the odd heron for company, we paddled out into velvety, clear water on the company’s impressively modern boats. Slipping between smooth granite boulders, forested islands, sheltered bays and remote fishing villages, it was a brilliantly unobtrusive way to see the local wildlife – and to get a welcome glimpse into the local culture, later that day, as we pulled up the kayaks and sat drinking coffee and eating cinnamon buns on a deserted jetty. >> Words by travelled by Rhiannon Batten who train from London to West Sweden.

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Germany, we select some of the best natural sites and cultural places in this beautiful country Germany's numerous protected landscapes – its biospheres and national parks, its nature reserves and bird sanctuaries – are a wonderful way to discover the country's unique and various natural habitats and get up close to its abundant wildlife, many species of which you won't find anywhere else in the world. We have chosen a handful of our favourite natural sites across the country, from family-friendly nature discovery centres and treetop trails to spectacular rock formations. But of course it's not all meadows and mudflats: nestling within the protected landscapes are some of the country's best-loved towns and cities, so we have found spas, monasteries and even a medieval brewery – still in operation – to satisfy those seeking some culture on holiday. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Germany: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places of interest in Germany Treetop Trail in Hainich National Park The huge, triangular-shaped expanse of ancient beech woodland – a national park since 1997 – is the heart of Germany and is one of the best places in the country to learn about forest conservation and sustainability. There some incredible wildlife species to discover – amongst them 15 species of bat, 7 types or woodpecker (who knew there were so many!), and serveral types of wildcats. One of the highlights of the national park is the treetop trail, a 3km-long raised pathway that snakes its way through the tree canopy, offering visitors some fantastic views over the treetops and opportunities to discover more about the surrounding environment from the various learning stations dotted along the route. The Bastei Rocks, Germany Tourists have been flocking to this stunning, jagged rock formation in Saxon Switzerland National Park for over 200 years, and it's not hard to see why. Known as the 'City of Stone', the rocks rise up nearly 200 metres above the river Elbe, giving visitors breathtaking panoramic vistas down the meandering river, out across the green fields and the national park's tiny villages beyond. You can explore the site via the network of bridges (originally wooden ropebridges; now, thankfully, constructed in stone) and there are plenty of walking paths at ground level for those who'd rather keep feet firmly on terra firma. Discovering the natural habitats of the Biosphere Reserve of Bliesgau The Biosphere Reserve of Bliesgau in Saarland's southeastern corner is home to some of Germany's rarest species of wildlife and plants. The combination of rich chalky grasslands, orchards, wetlands, and dense beech forests means that some of Germany's rarest species thrive in the area. The national park is home to half of Germany's orchid species, as well as other rare plants such as the Maiden Pink, and over 60 different types of grass. Müritzeum Nature Discovery Centre The Müritzeum is a brilliantly interactive nature discovery centre which delves deep into the natural world of the surrounding Müritz National Park, famous for its hundreds of lakes and huge swathes of pristine forest. From birds and underwater life to forest management and conservation, the centre touches on all aspects of local flora and fauna. At the centre is the aquarium, home to a 27-year old carp – the centre's oldest resident – and dozens of other freshwater species found in the nearby lakes. The huge exhibition space has a rotating programme of exhibits, including seasons in the national park and an exploration of the landscape from a bird's eye view; the 'Forest Room' has a replica 1000-year old oak tree. There's an outside playground for kids, a restaurant and gift shop. mueritzeum.de Ettal Abbey, Germany Nestling in the foothills of the Bavarian Alps in Germany's remote southeast corner, this Benedictine monastery remains one of the region's most important abbeys. Despite a fairly turbulent history, including a fire which destroyed the monastery in the 16th century (it was subsequently rebuilt), Ettal remains a working monastery to this day. Though much of the site is not open to the public, visitors can still wander around the beautifiul courtyards and grounds, and marvel at the impressive basilica (open year-round) -– at some 25 metres across, the stucco'd dome is visible for miles around. The Ettal Brewery, established at the monastery in 1609, is still going strong: the popular Ettal beer, created by the monks using a special blend of local malt and hops and water straight from the Alps, is available to buy at the monastery or in local shops in the town. Spreewald Therme, Burg, Germany There is a variety of pools at this wellness centre and spa in the UNESCO biosphere reserve of Spreewald, with thermal baths and a wellness centre, as well as saunas and steams rooms. The spa water comes from an impressive depth of 1, 300 metres below the centre, the mineral-rich water guanateed to make you feel beautifully pampered. There's an on site hotel for those wishing to extend their stay – guests get free entry to the spa centre and discounted treatments.

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Germany, we've picked out a selection of places to stay. From a Feng Shui-inspired hotel to what must be one of Germany's most romantic places to stay – a rosy-pink medieval watermill – we've uncovered some fabulous places to rest your head hidden in the green folds of Germany's loveliest nature reserves, national parks and biospheres. Germany has an impressive number of organic hotels (bio-hotels) where sustainability, organic food and respect for the surrounding environment and nature is a way of life for their owners. We've thrown some of our favourites into the mix: there's the welcoming Mohren Hotel with organic breakfasts to die for, the riverside hotel surrounded by fragrant cypress trees and the family-run organic farm with fairytale castles and baroque towns on the doorstep. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Germany: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places to stay in Germany Biohotel Mohren, Lake Konstanz, Germany Unpretentious and welcoming organic hotel and restaurant with 65 calm, cool bedrooms, a wonderful restaurant serving organic feasts, breakfasts to die for, a gorgeous sauna and spa and masses to do on the doorstep – castles, lakes, walking trails. mohren.bio Hotel Helvetia, Saxony, Germany On banks of the river Elbe, this bio-hotel puts sustainability at the heart of everything they do. Beautiful chalet-style bedrooms, a 100% organic restaurant, spa and treatment rooms and walking, cycling and climbing nearby. hotelhelvetia.eu Bavarian Forest Holidays, Germany Self catering one, two and three bedroom luxury apartments in the largest wooded mountain region in Central Europe. Impressive eco credentials including solar panels, wood pellet heating, full waste recycling and organic food. bavarian-forest-holidays.com Hotel Victoria, Freiburg, Germany Near the train station in the student city of Freiburg is this Best Western hotel, located in a handsome 19th-century building in a vibrant corner of town. Comfy bedrooms, lively cocktail bar and exemplary green features throughout. hotel-victoria.de Art'Otel, Cologne, Germany A vibrant, sleek hotel with a modern 'bright and white' look to really showcase the beautiful artwork of Korean-born artist SEO that decorates the walls of every room. it’s also one of the city’s greener hotels with methods to save water and energy. radissonhotels.com/en-us/hotels/artotel-cologne Radisson Blu Hotel Köln, Cologne, Germany Feng Shui-inspired contemporary architecture and easy access to the city’s leafy Rheinpark create a relaxing environment at Radisson Blu. It's also sustainable, with energy conservation and recycling earning it a Green Key eco label. radissonhotels.com/en-us/hotels/radisson-blu-cologne Gutshof Kraatz, Brandenburg, Germany This coach house and farmhouse on a cider-making estate have been given a new lease of life. Natural, traditional materials used throughout, fabulous restaurant and farm shop on site, and orchards, forests and lakes to discover nearby. urlaubsarchitektur.de/en/gutshof-kraatz/ Schlossgut Oberambach, Lake Starnberg, Germany A handsome, green-shuttered hotel above Lake Starnberg with organic restaurant, spa, lovely rooms, and space to breathe. Come in summer for birdwatching and dips in the natural swimming pond, in winter for snow shoeing along the Nordic walking route. biohotels.info/en/categories/schlossgut-oberambach Biohotel Eggensberger, Füssen, Germany Organic, chalet-style hotel in the wonderful Allgaü region of southern Germany, renowned for its delicious local produce. Rooms have mountain and lake views; ingredients for the organic restaurant come from family farm 2km away. eggensberger.de

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Germany, we've picked out a selection of places to eat. There's so much more to Germany's food scene than beer and bratwurst. The country is packed with innovative chefs doing exciting things with exceptional ingredients and here is a small selection of places where you can savour some of the country's finest produce. Tuck into tasty treats such as pumpkin seed ice cream in one of Bonn's best restaurants, or try fluffy späetzle (Germany's beloved egg noodle dish) in a café hidden in Hamburg's maze of alleyways; indulge in a fantastic selection of oozy cheeses and gooey desserts, or enjoy hearty dishes flavoured with foraged ingredients, such as asparagus and garlic; there's even a restaurant set on a monastery with its own 900-year old organic farming estate. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Germany: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places to eat in Germany Wilder Ritter, Durbach The stylish Hotel Ritter Durbach lies halfway between France and the Black Forest. The interiors are decadent (think wood panelling, walls in deep crimson or covered in gilt floral paper, low lighting) and the food is gourmet...and then some. The Michelin-starred chef, whose manra "food should be fun" influences every recipe that graces the menu, has been delighting guests with creative, cosmopolitan dishes here since 2014. He pairs his food with a fabulous list of wines, many of which are local. ritter-durbach.de Strandhaus, Bonn Out-of-towners and local Bonn residents alike rave about the food at this beachside place, and rightly so. The food is creative without being fussy: start with prawns with a cucumber and mint smoothie, move onto seabass with beetroot risotto, and finish with pumpkin seed ice cream. The 'Surprise' menu is just that: you never know what you're going to get. Bag a table on the terrace if you can: festooned with fairy lights, it's a pretty romantic spot to spend the evening. Inside is just as charming, with its whitewashed, seaside feel. Lovely, knowledgable staff too. strandhaus-bonn.de Bio Gasthof Kolonieschanke, Burg The Spreewald region in east Germany is a designated a UNESCO nature reserve, famous for its network of over 200 small canals and large areas of wetland and pine forests. If you're a walking or cycling the myriad leafy trails or plying the canals by boat, this red-bricked inn is a good port of call for a tasty lunch or dinner. The restaurant is 100% organic, with a menu that leans heavily on traditional recipes and local ingredients. The riverside terrace is a quiet spot to watch the boats pootle past. kolonieschaenke.de Restaurant Seespiegel, Eifel In the lower Eifel region of western Germany lies a beautiful medieval monastery, Maria Laach. On the grounds of the abbey is this smart hotel and restaurant. The restaurant uses regional produce above all else: fish from nearby Laach Lake, game from surrounding woodland, and beef and pork from the monastery's organic farming estate, established some 900 years ago. Hearty dishes are flavoured with foraged ingredients – herbs, garlic, asparagus – and there are local wines to wash it down with: ask if you can take a sneeky peek at their wine cellar. seehotel-maria-laach.de/restaurant-seespiegel.html Hellers Brauhaus, Cologne Run by Hellers, the only organic brewery in the city, this atmospheric pub and restaurant in the studenty Rathenauplatz area serves a range of organic beers, including the famous Kölsch. If you want something to soak it up you’ll find all the local favourites on its food menu, from Halver Hahn (Gouda with a rye roll and fried onions) and Himmel und Äd (a “heaven and earth” of fried black pudding with mashed potatoes and apple sauce) to Sauerbraten (beef marinated in vinegar with raisins, apple sauce and potato dumplings). hellers.koeln Café Eugens, Konstanz Easy-going on all levels, from the simply prepared food to the relaxed staff and cheerful interiors, this popular café has gathered something of a cult following in Konstanz. The organic menu is inspired by regional produce from the nearby Black Forest: find dishes such as wild garlic gnocchi, quiche of the day with spelt shortcrust pastry and an ever-changing selection of hearty soups, well as plenty of vegetarian options and kid-friendly meals. The café's own organically-run patisserie across the road supplies the café with fresh cakes, pies and pastries throughout the day. eugens.bio Brunnenstube, Beuren This menu at this café, located in the spa town of Beuren, focuses on homemade produce, from the breads and pastries to the cakes and ice cream. Regional dishes such as ravioli, späetzle (soft pasta-like noodles) and schnitzel are also made on site. The town's most popular spa is next door, making this a great spot for lunch if you're visiting the baths for the day. In fine weather, grab a table under a parasol on the terrace.

Our part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Germany, we select some of the best walks, long distance hikes and adventure activities in this beautiful country The possibility of adventure lies around every corner. Whether it's hiking up mountains or hurtling down them on skis, peddling through nature reserves or paddling across turquoise lakes in a canoe, the diverse mix of landscapes – from mountains and forest to coast and country – make Germany one of the most exciting places for outdoor activities. But not all activities are high octane and adreneline fuelled: we've selected some gentler pursuits which allow you to absorb the natural habitat and landscapes at a quieter pace. There are horse-drawn carriage rides across mudflats to the wildlife-rich Hallig islands, donkey walking in nature reserves, punting on the river Spree, and electric bikes to hire in the fairytale Black Forest. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Germany: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Activities in Germany Walking in Germany - Meanders of the Moselle Follow the Moselsteig long-distance trail on this self-guided walking holiday from hotel to hotel through the steep vineyards and half-timbered villages of the Moselle Valley, delving into Germany's Roman past - and tasting its world-famous wines. Hiking in Bliesgau Biosphere Reserve, Saarland, Germany Bliesgau is the westernmost biosphere in Germany, a rolling, verdant patchwork of orchards, beech woodland, orchid-rich meadows and pastures. The river Blies flows through the landscape, offering twitchers lots of opportunity for bird-watching. The area is also a sanctuary for rare plants and wildlife – species such as little owl, red kite and lizard orchid flourish in this quiet, green region, whilst the Roman and Celtic remains offer a fascinating insight into the region's cultural past. The reserve is best discovered on foot – the area is easily explored via the myriad paths and trails which criss-cross the landscape, such as the well-marked routes that were once used by the St James pilgrims, as well as numerous other trails that follow some of the region's historic walking paths. Hiking the Märkischer Landweg Trail, Uckermark, Germany This 220-kilometre walking trail starts in the lake-dotted landscape of the Feldberg Nature Reserve, passing through the area's fjord-like scenery where vast expanses of crystal clear water sit against a backdrop of snow-capped mountains. This is a region that time forgot: pass shepherds tending their sheep, tiny villages and crumbling monasteries – the monastery at Himmelpfort in particular, once a refuge for wayward monks, is well worth a stop-off if you can make the detour. The second half of the route passes through the Lower Oder Valley National Park, a pristine river meadow and a haven for waterfowl – if you're here in September you'll be sharing the landscape with thousands of pairs of cranes who flock here at the end of summer. Cycling in Germany - Bavarian Castles & Villages Discover the picturesque landscapes of southern Bavaria as you follow part of the Romantic Strasse, passing fairytale castles, traditional villages and idyllic rolling countryside on a self-guided cycle, whilst staying in three high quality hotels. Cycling in the Swabian Alb Biosphere Reserve Bumping over the trails in the Swabian Alb Biosphere Reserve on two wheels is pure joy. There's a fantastic well-marked network of cycle routes in the region and plenty of scope to forge your own cycling itinerary if you want to keep off the main paths. Those after a good day's cycle should follow the 60-kilometre Marbach bike trail linking the three historic stud farms of Gomadingen-Marbech, Gomadingen-Offenhausen and St Johann-Würtingen, passing through numerous horse pastures and beautiful studland. The Ermstal Fruit Cycle Route traces an undulating path through orchards and vineyards – full of blossom in spring and summer, with plenty of places to stop off for a well-earned apple juice en route. biosphaerengebiet-alb.de Electric bikes in the Black Forest, Germany The Black Forest, in Germany's southwestern corner, is a large forested mountain range, knitted together by a network by rivers (nine pass through the area), and dotted with castles, waterfalls, intriguing cities and chocolate box villages giving visitors an insight into traditional village life. Pedalling around on an e-bike is one of the best ways to explore the region: you can cover large distances (and at 150km from north to south, the Black Forest is a fairly substantial area), and tackling those mountains routes is a breeze. In fact, the Black Forest is home to Germany's largest e-bike charging station network – there's an impressive 170 charging stations in and around the area. Horse-drawn carriage rides to Hallig Island, Germany The flat Hallig islands, which jut out into the North Sea just off Germany's northwest coast, are a fascinating mini archipelago to explore – there are just five islands in total. Incredibly, the whole cluster is submerged up to thirty times a year. Not surprisingly, they are sparsely populated. Local flora and fauna flourish here – the sand dunes, mudflats and long sandy beaches are quiet nesting grounds for some rare wildlife, many species of which you won't find anywhere else. You can travel to the islands by boat, and, at low tide, you can even walk across from the mainland. Or how about travelling across by horse-drawn carriage? You can pick up carriages from Ockholm throughout the year – just make sure you don't get stranded on the other side! Rafting on the River Peene, Germany The River Peene is often referred to as the Amazon of the North due to its pristine, wild landscape, little impacted by humans and industry and flourishing with animal and plantlife. It snakes through the Peene Valley for nearly 200 km via some of north Germany's wildest, remotest landscape. Visitors can walk or cycle the riverside paths, but the best way to soak up this landscape is, of course, from the river itself. Gliding silently through the water, you'll spot wildlife and rare flowers – the swampy landscape is a haven for some of Europe's more uncommon species. Punting on the River Spree, Germany In the Spreewald Biosphere Reserve, punting has been the traditional way of getting around the centuries. Local residents still rely heavily on boats to travel around 'Pusch', as it's affectionately known, and visitors can take traditional boats to see the area for themselves. There are numerous punting stations throughout the region running a variety of themed trips: visit in winter and glide through the water with a warming glass of hot punch, join the nature lover's tour and spot rare birds, or take a history tour and learn about the local culture and tradition of the Spreewald reserve. Snowshoeing in the Bavarian Forest, Germany If you really want to make the most of Germany's magical mountains then strap on your snowshoes and find solitude amongst the snow-covered meadows, forests and frozen lakes of one of the most protected and untouched forested regions in Germany. Follow animal tracks in fresh snow, climb steep ascents for awesome views, glide silently through newly fallen snow. Canoeing in the Middle Elbe Biosphere Reserve Gliding silently through the Middle Elbe Biosphere Reserve by canoe has to be one of the loveliest ways to see the region. The biosphere is one of the largest water meadow areas in Europe and provides refuge for many rare or endangered creatures, including bees, dragonflies and other winged insects, as well as otters, beavers and white-tailed eagles. In summer it's a profusion of colour – the perfect time to visit for plant lovers. Canoeing allows you to get up close to this wonderful flora and fauna. Great fun for all the family. Cross-country skiing in The Green Belt, Germany Come wintertime, there's only one way to fully appreciate the magic and mystery of the mountains and that's to don your skis and get out and explore the tracks, trails and pathways that make up this fascinating corner of Germany. The popular, well-marked routes are a joy to follow; wide tracks weave their way through some of the region's most pristine forest, with the chance to spot wildlife along the way. You can team up with a guide or make your own way through this white wildnerness.

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to the Mendip Hills, Jackie King picks out a selection of outdoor adventure activities in this glorious Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) in Somerset, southwest England. The geology of the Mendips - with its cavernous gorges and network of caves, its rugged landscape and meandering rivers - lends itself to a fantastic variety of outdoor activities. Not surprisingly, the area is very popular with caving, and enthusiasts come from miles around to experience the thrill of scrambling underground here. The open, windswept plateau also make fantastic biking terrain, and the dense woodland and grasslands are perfect for bush foraging and nature walking. If you want to take in the beauty of the landscape at a more leisurely pace, there is mile upon mile of relatively flat cycle routes, bridle paths and footpaths, making it easy to get around the AONB under your own steam. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Travel Guide to the Mendips: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Outdoor adventure activities in the Mendips Go Wild Snack on bugs and nettles in the undergrowth, take up the fire-lighting challenge, go foraging in the hedgerows, learn how to shoot... Whether you’re planning a hen or stag party, a company away day, or have simply always fancied yourself as a bit of a Ray Mears, sign up to Go Wild you can enjoy these and many more equally entertaining, inspiring, low impact activities in a beautiful rural setting in the Mendips. They also provide accommodation, from cottage to glampsites. gowildweekends.co.uk Mendip Outdoor Pursuits Build a raft and sail it down the river, explore the labyrinth of underground caves or head off with a map and compass for an afternoon of orienteering. From bush crafts and assault courses to guided walks and mountain walking, Mendip Outdoor Pursuits has dozens of different trips and ideas for company away days, school outings, stag and hen parties. mendip.me The Charterhouse Centre This award winning outdoor and environmental centre is based in the heart of the Mendip Hills. The centre works with schools, universities, corporate customers and various other groups and organisations, offering a wide range of challenging outdoor activities, including caving, climbing, archery and orienteering. Whether you are looking for a venue to host a family get together or are a teacher looking to organise an outdoor residential trip for up to 65 children, Charterhouse is the place for you! charterhousecentre.org.uk For more information on characterful places to stay, local food and drink, and nearby visitor attractions, see our Green Traveller's Guide to the Mendip Hills.

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to the Dyfi Biosphere, here is our guide to travelling to the area without a car. It may be one of the most westerly regions in the the UK, but the Dyfi Valley is surprisingly easy to reach by public transport. Regular trains run every day of the week between London via Birmingham to Machynlleth, with a journey time of around four hours. And, once there, there's a comprehensive bus and train network – including steam trains! – allowing you to move around with relative ease. What's more, there's a fantastic network of cycle routes and walking trails for those that prefer to get around under their own steam. There are some great cycle hire companies too, so those without their own wheels have no excuse to avoid carbon free travel on holiday! Getting to the Dyfi Biosphere Trains leave London for the Dyfi Valley roughly every two hours, including Sundays. You'll need to change at Birmingham from where it's a 3 hour journey into the Dyfi Valley. There are regular buses connecting Aberystwyth with Machynlleth, as well as Newtown, Dolgellau and Tywyn. Getting around the Dyfi Biosphere As protected areas go, the Dyfi Biosphere is small and compact – spend a week here and you will feel like you know the place pretty well. Consequently, it's really to get around, so great news for those travelling without the car. Once you've arrived at Aberystwyth or Machynlleth – the two main arrivals points – there are regular buses connecting the rest of the area. There are new cycle paths to Derwenlas and Penegoes so bike it a great way to explore the area. To hire bikes or go on guided bike rides in and around Dyfi Biosphere, see bikecorris.co.uk. For more info on getting around the area, see Traveline Cymru For a full list of downloadable PDF bus routes in the Dyfi Biosphere and the surrounding area, see the Gwynedd Council website

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to the Dyfi Biosphere, Florence Fortnam picks out a selection of characterful places to stay and places selling locally produced seasonal food. There are two main ingredients which combine to create fabulous places to stay in the Dyfi Biosphere. Firstly, the natural landscape: if your idea of the perfect rural retreat involves inspiring views and breathtaking setting, you will be spoilt for choice in this little pocket of Wales. The second element is the friendly, characterful owners: it is their spirit and hard work that makes a stay at a rustic farmhouse comfortable or a week at a no-frills campsite memorable. They work tirelessly to create a holiday experience that will stick in your memory, long after you have left. They are all taking steps to ensure that their business doesn't impact negatively on the landscape and they deserve our recognition. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to the Dyfi Biosphere: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places to stay We have picked out some of the best places to stay, from heavenly hotels and beautiful B&Bs to cool campsites, all chosen for their commitment to preserving their patch of West Wales and encouraging their guests to connect with the local landscape. Ynyshir Hall This grand old 15th-century house has had its fair share of noble owners, but none as illustrious as Queen Victoria, who refurbished the hall and planted many of the trees in the gardens that encircle the house today. The hotel’s nine bedrooms – named after artists – are adorned in a sumptuous palate of dramatic reds, deep purples and shocking pinks – Matisse has candyfloss striped wallpaper; Renoir has a Louis VIII style bed and mountain views. Head chef Paul Croasdale uses local ingredients – seafood from Cardigan Bay, Welsh Black beef, herbs and vegetables from the kitchen garden, and wild garlic and mushrooms from the surrounding woodland – to create inventive fare in the elegant restaurant. http://ynyshir.co.uk Hendy Farm There can’t be too many places to stay in this world where you can arrive by steam train; this 250-acre farm has it’s own stop on the Talyllyn Narrow Gauge Railway! Hendy Farm is a family-run sheep and cattle farm on the edge of the Dyfi Biosphere and guests are free to roam the farmland and meet the animals. Three comfortable and homely bedrooms are decked out in floral bedspreads and pale yellow walls, and there’s a separate sitting room should guests want to stick their feet up. The seaside town of Tywyn is a short walk away and there’s plenty of walking opportunities from the door. hendyfarmholidays.co.uk The Old Coach House This self -contained one bedroom cottage, extensively refurbished in 2016, has an open plan kitchen, dining and sitting area on the ground floor. The toilet has been fitted with a reduced flush system, while five water butts provide all the water necessary to feed the garden and chemical-free laundry products are bought in bulk. There are separate recycling bins in the barn. Food waste is used as compost on the garden, helping the site's own fruit and veg to grow. The rest of the food used is sourced locally wherever possible, including meat from an award-winning local butcher, fish from an award-winning fishmonger in Aberdyfi and local butter, eggs, yoghurt and milk. Both cyclist and walker friendly, the owners are willing to pick guests up from the nearest train station. Situated within the Snowdonia National Park, which itself covers some 823 square miles of diverse landscapes, the Old Coach House is in an ideal location to explore the largest National Park in Wales. theoldcoachhousecottage.co.uk Treehouse Living Room Be carried – from the woodland floor to the tree canopy – via a sweeping spiral staircase: an architectural wonder in wood. Stripped branches are knotted together to create wonderfully wonky fences, their knobbly imperfections contrasting beautifully against the sleek, modern pods. Inside, the Hobbit-esque tree houses are neatly divided into living and sleeping quarters with portholes and glass doors, wood-burners for cosy evenings, and Scandinavian-inspired beds and chairs. There are five Treehouses, each as unique as the trees in which they are built. They are nestled in a hidden valley, in the heart of the Welsh mountains ... close to the sea and to the end of the hippy trail. Built with care, to blend seamlessly with the beautiful woodlands - a world away from the pressures of modern life and complete with cosy wood-burning stoves, flickering candles, fast flowing streams, wobbly bridges, whirling red kites, breathtaking walks and a gorgeous tree-top home. Each treehouses feature a luxurious double bed and fold down bunk beds - offering comfortable accommodation for two adults and two children (an extra child can often be accommodated on a day bed if required) and is cosy and highly insulated. Lovely to live in all year round, each treehouse has a woodburning stove which heats the treehouse beautifully; it also heats the water that falls from the spring water shower. There is a kitchen - with everything you need to rustle up a tree-top banquet and an ensuite Swedish compost toilet, high in the treetops and with no electricity at Treehouse; you will light your way with lanterns, tea lights and lamps, for an air of romance and peace. Exceptional! living-room.co Yr Hen Stablau Self-Catering A true home from home experience in a lovely barn conversion. Come for wildflowers in spring, lake swimming in summer, forests ablaze with colour in autumn and the snowcapped mountains in winter. Yr Hen Stablau is a recently renovated 1840s stables set in luxuriant gardens on a wooded hillside overlooking the beautiful Dyfi Valley near Machynlleth, and in the south corner of Snowdonia. The stables conversion was designed to preserve existing walls and features, use original stone, slates and timbers, and make the building energy efficient. selfcateringcottagewales.co.uk Hendy Farm There can’t be too many places to stay in this world where you can arrive by steam train; this 250-acre farm has it’s own stop on the Talyllyn Narrow Gauge Railway! Hendy Farm is a family-run sheep and cattle farm on the edge of the Dyfi Biosphere and guests are free to roam the farmland and meet the animals. Three comfortable and homely bedrooms are decked out in floral bedspreads and pale yellow walls, and there’s a separate sitting room should guests want to stick their feet up. The seaside town of Tywyn is a short walk away and there’s plenty of walking opportunities from the door. hendyfarmholidays.co.uk Tynrhelyg Two pretty stone holiday cottages – Helygen and Eithinog – sit side by side with fabulous views over the Cambrian Mountains; perfectly placed for walkers and those wishing to visit Dyfi's nature reserves and coast. Inside, you'll find gleaming wooden floors and spacious open-plan living areas with cosy wood-burning stoves; generous bedrooms have chunky wooden beds and rolling green views. You're spoilt for choice for things to do in the area: explore the surrounding countryside on foot, head to the coast or, if you can't tear yourself away, sit back and soak up those views from the comfort of your cottage. holidaycambriancoast.co.uk Morben Isaf Holiday Home & Touring Park Bag yourself a pitch at the highest point and you’re guaranteed sea views, but no matter where you set up tent on this gently hilly site, the views over surrounding countryside are superb. The Cors Dyfi reserve is just a few minutes’ walk, although the campsite has it’s own community of feathered friends and a hide for ultra keen twitchers. There’s also a well-stocked fishing pool and children’s playground. morbenisaf.co.uk Eco Retreats Run by Michael and ChaNan Bonser, these four tipis and one yurt are spread out over 50 acres, each one offering its own unique and secluded atmosphere, either beside a stream, surrounded by woodland or looking out over the rolling hills. Each of the tipis has organic bed linen and sheepskin rugs, and is lit by a good number of candles, lanterns, and a central wood burning 'chimenea'. Each yurt also has its own washing and toilet unit, with a fresh spring-water shower just outside. You have to heat up your own water so you can keep a count on how much you’re using. The large yurt offers similar organic produce, wood burner, and furnishings from either local, recycled or fair trade sources. Everything that can be recycled is recycled, with some waste going to swap shops and recycle centres. As there is no restaurant on site, the owners are keen to recommend eateries that are part of the slow food movement and smaller, independent shops. Eco Retreats has developed a comprehensive sustainability plan in order to present as little harm to the environment as possible. No electricity is used on site, and even the washing up liquid, cleaning products, soaps and shampoos need to adhere to strict biodegradable and ecological criteria. In addition, all of the food products you'll find in the welcome hamper have to have passed organic and fair-trade screenings. The owners offer sessions in both reiki and spiritual healing to help guests fully unwind and relax during their stay. With 1,300 acres of organic farm to explore, the site is also close to Cadair Idris, one of Wales' highest mountains, to the north and the fantastic beaches of Aberdyfi and Ynys Las to the west and south. ecoretreats.co.uk Centre for Alternative Technology CAT is an internationally renowned visitor centre, research and residential centre, entirely powered solely by wind, solar and hydro technology. Covering all aspects of green living - from woodland management to renewal energy and environmental building - the centre runs courses on sustainable living, as well as educational programmes for schools and graduate training programmes. There are seven acres of interactive displays, and a shop and vegetarian restaurant on site. There are also two basic eco cabins on site – and as you expect for a centre committed to alternative energy, they are exemplary green places to stay - hot water is heated by the woodstove or solar panels, and wind and water turbines provide electricity. cat.org.uk/come-to-cat/stay Places to eat The Dyfi Biosphere is good news for those who relish the thought of treating their tastebuds to good, local, seasonal food on holiday. Fringed by the coast and the Dyfi estuary, and blanketed by moorland and woodland – and with a staunch regional commitment to preserving the agricultural heritage – the region is, not surprisingly, heaven for foodies. Catches of fish, plucked fresh from the coast, grace the plates of restaurants throughout the region – from seabass to mussels – and the River Dyfi and the estuary offer up an abundance of salmon and sea trout. Welsh Black cattle and lamb graze on open moorland and there are numerous dairy farms dotted around the region – local food producers, not supermarkets, determine what ends up on restaurant menus. From pubs serving innovative dishes to family-friendly cafés in the heart of the region, the Dyfi Biosphere has an exciting food scene; here are a few places to get you started. Wynnstay Head chef Gareth sources all his ingredients within 50 miles: immersed in one of the world’s finest natural larders, why go further afield? Food follows the slow food principles of “Good, clean and fair”. Tuck into local fare, such as Cardigan Bay fish casserole or local pheasant breast, and wash it all down with a glass of Pennarth wine – the vineyard is a few miles away. Real ales from the length and breadth of the country find themselves behind the bar here and, if you’re lucky, your visit might coincide with an impromptu gig from a local choir or band. www.wynnstay.wales Riverside Hotel Pennal/Glan Yr Afon With over 25 years of experience in the hospitality business behind them, Glyn and Corina have branched out on their own to create a place to eat that combines the sort of fine dining experience you might find in a top restaurant with the warm welcome and atmosphere of a country pub. Pop in for a pint, stay for dinner – Aberdyfi seabass (from a coastal town a few miles west) on herby mash, followed by a trio of Welsh cheeses, perhaps? – or curl up in the cwtch (‘snug’, in Welsh) with a good book. Glyn is a keen artist and his work decorates walls. If you want to prolong your stay here, why not book a night at their B&B a few minutes’ walk away? www.riversidehotel-pennal.co.uk The Machinations Café From crowd-pleasers, such as lasagne or shepherd’s pie, to a huge range of cakes and sweet treats (the lemon drizzle or apple pie are not to be missed), The Machinations Café serves local food with a friendly service. All their dairy products and meat are sourced from within Wales, such as their fantastic free-range pork sausages. www.machinationswales.co.uk/cafe

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to the Dyfi Biosphere, Florence Fortnam picks out a selection of local cultural and heritage visitor attractions. The diversity of landscapes and habitats of the Dyfi Biosphere – from coast and estuary to moorland and upland – means that no matter what you decide to do on holiday, whether you're after adventure or some quiet family time, you're bound to be enjoying the scenery the whole while. We have chosen activities and visitor attractions throughout the region which will allow you to get up close and connect with the local landscape. Whether it's absorbing the beauty of the coastline from the saddle of a donkey, taking in the scenery from the comfort of a steam train, or exploring the workings of the local slate mines, there's plenty of things to keep the whole family entertained. And, of course, no holiday would be complete without a spot of shopping: the Corris Craft Centre is teeming with gifts ideas to ensure you will head home with more clobber than you arrived with. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to the Dyfi Biosphere: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities King Arthur’s Labyrinth Sail underground with your mysterious hooded boatman and go back in time into the Dark Ages. Be regaled with tales of King Arthur, dragons and ferocious battles, and other ancient Welsh legends. There’s something to entertain everyone, young and old alike. Cool in summer and dry in wet weather, this is the perfect all-weather attraction. kingarthurslabyrinth.co.uk Vale of Rheidol Railway For over a century, this little steam train has been chugging and whistling through the Welsh Reidol Valley in Wales. Opened in 1902 to carry lead ore and timber through the valleys, the Vale of Rheidol Railway now ferries passengers through the rugged mountain scenery, allowing them to marvel at the stunning views and catch glimpses of kites and buzzards from the comfort of a carriage. rheidolrailway.co.uk Corris Mine Explorers Wandering round these abandoned Welsh slate mines feels a little like you’ve set foot on a film set: tools, machinery, candles – even cigarette packets – are still where they were discarded by miners after the closure of the mine in the 1970s. Mark, your guide, will help you explore the damp tunnels and underground workings through several different experiences, from an hour-long taster trip to a half-day journey of exploration and discovery, which takes you along two miles of tunnels. corrismineexplorers.co.uk Corris Craft Centre From Celtic inspired jewellery designs, to funky forest furniture created out of reclaimed and recycled materials, the Corris Craft Centre hums with the creative buzz of 8 independent craft-makers. Whether you’re searching for a special gift, want to commission a piece of furniture or simply want to have a nose around, there is plenty of activity going on here. There’s a small playground and a choice of visitor attractions to keep children entertained too. There's a café for a refreshing booster after your retail therapy session. corriscraftcentre.co.uk Centre for Alternative Technology CAT is an internationally renowned visitor centre, research and residential centre, entirely powered solely by wind, solar and hydro technology. Covering all aspects of green living - from woodland management to renewal energy and environmental building - the centre runs courses on sustainable living, as well as educational programmes for schools and graduate training programmes. There are seven acres of interactive displays, and a shop and vegetarian restaurant on site. There are also two eco cabins on site – hot water is heated by the woodstove or solar panels, and wind and water turbines provide electricity. visit.cat.org.uk Dyfi Donkeys Dyfi Donkeys was established in 2006 with just two donkeys; they now have a stable of 6 donkeys: Moses, Del-Boy, Muffin, Twister, Spot and Joey. The donkey rides take place every day between May and September in the sand dunes at Aberdyfi Beach. Dyfi Donkeys. dyfidonkeys.blogspot.com

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to the Dyfi Biosphere, Florence Fortnam picks out a selection of local adventure activities in the great outdoors. Given that great swathes of the Dyfi valley have become protected nature reserves, there are fantastic birdwatching opportunities. Ospreys, egrets, and lapwings are common sights in these reserves – you might even get to spot dolphins and porpoises out to sea. The northern fringes of the region are carpetted in dense forests and have some fantastic cycling tracks and trails that wend their way through the dense woodland. Many of the routes head into the Cambrian Mountains where steep tracks will keep serious bikers happy. The Dyfi Valley is a walkers' paradise. Unlike some of the better known protected areas in the UK, you'll be able to wonder for miles without bumping into another soul, and whatever sort of terrain you want to stretch your legs on – be it a coastal, wooded, or open plain – you will be able to do it all here. Dyfi Ospreys Cors Dyfi is a wonderful nature reserve which is teeming with wildlife year-round and is home to the Dyfi Osprey Project. Most people visit between April and September when the magnificent Ospreys – named Monty, Nora and Scraggly – are around, but there are lots of other plants and animals to spot throughout the rest of the year, including water buffalo. There’s an elevated bird hide, a visitor centre and a small shop onsite. dyfiospreyproject.com Ynys Hir RSPB Reserve This bird and wildlife reserve has mixed Welsh oak woodland with wet grassland and salt marshes, an environment that brings carpets of flowers in spring, wading birds in summer – such as lapwings and little egrets – and ducks and geese in winter, so whichever season you visit in, there is always plenty going on. Seven hides allow visitors to spot birds of prey, and the two nature trails – 1.5 and 3 miles – loop round the reserve affording fabulous views from lookout points. rspb.org.uk/reserves/guide/y/ynys-hir Ynyslas, Dyfi National Nature Reserve This nature reserve teems with flora and fauna year-round. The estuary is a perfect feeding ground for wading birds, such as the shelduck, who descend on the reserve in their thousands every year, and the dunes are home to rare orchids and other wild plants – you may even spot dolphins and porpoises out to sea. Over a quarter of a million visitors flock to the reserve every year to enjoy the trails through the dunes and the carpets of wild flowers in spring. visitmidwales.co.uk/Borth-Dyfi-National-Nature-Reserve-Centre

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Mid Wales, Paul Bloomfield picks out a selection of places to stay, from welcoming B&Bs and traditional stone cottages, to pampering hotels, to tipis and eco pods with breathtaking mountain vistas. All these places are making great efforts to reduce their impact on the environment, too: stay at any of these places and you will sleep with an easy eco-conscience. There are solar panels aplenty, delicious locally-sourced breakfasts, eco-friendly conversions and acre upon acre of wildlife-rich habitat for you and the family to roam. You'll find a great geographical spread, too, so whether you want to be in the Snowdonian mountains or the Brecon Beacons – or you need a bit of inspiration to help you decide – you'll find plenty of ideas in our selection of B&Bs, hotels and cottages and campsites. Lasswade Country House & Restaurant, Powys, Wales A warm and homely four star b&b hotel with fabulous views of the Cambrian Mountains, Epynt Hills and Brecon Beacons. Breathe in the lovely clean air, enjoy the peace and quiet and taste the delicious award winning sustainable food. lasswadehotel.co.uk The Start, Hay-on-Wye, Powys, Wales Riverside bed & breakfast set in a quiet location on the banks of the river Wye. Ideal base for walking, cycling and browsing the many book shops of Hay-on-Wye. Large garden with off-road parking, cycle lockup, drying facilities and flasks filled! the-start.net Gwaenynog Farmhouse B&B, Powys, Wales A beautiful farmhouse with exposed beams, an inglenook fireplace, comfortable beds, wonderful showers & plentiful breakfasts. Enjoy mountain views and a variety of birds. A great place to relax, unwind and escape. gwaenynog.com Lion Hotel, Mid Wales, Wales A well-established, family run, friendly, country pub with B&B rooms in Mid Wales. A perfect base for walking, cycling and exploring the local area. Delicious home cooked food and real ales. Open all year. lionhotel-llanbister.co.uk Old Radnor Barn, Powys, Wales Old Radnor Barn, Talgarth is an award winning, 4* B&B, nestled in the foothills of the Black Mountains/Brecon Beacons National Park, renowned for its scenic beauty. Luxury accommodation and facilities with ground floor rooms for elderly/disabled. oldradnorbarn.com Rhedyn Guesthouse, Powys, Mid Wales Rhedyn Guesthouse is by the wild Cambrian Mountains: good for walking, biking and hacking, and minutes away from Builth Wells Showground. Rhedyn B&B is also good for its home produce, delicious dining and comfortable luxurious rooms. rhedynguesthouse.co.uk The Granary, Powys, Wales The Granary is a luxury 5 star B&B situated in the Brecon Beacons National Park. The stunning scenery is a fab backdrop for outdoor activities, and the peaceful location makes it a perfect spot to appreciate the recently awarded "Dark Skies" status. thegranaryinthepark.com The Drovers Rest Restaurant with Rooms, Powys, Wales. An award winning riverside restaurant and tearoom offering cosy accommodation. Home to the J & R School of Cooking Masterclasses, the local food and service are renowed througout Wales and the UK as one of the best little restaurants. food-food-food.co.uk The Old Coach House, Machynlleth, Mid-Wales A 1 bed, self-catering holiday cottage in the peaceful Dyfi Valley and Snowdonia National Park. Ideal for walkers, cyclists and bird-watchers. Evening meals can be provided in the dining room in the main house with prior notice theoldcoachhousecottage.co.uk Nannerth Country Holidays, Rhayader, Mid Wales Delightful 4 star cottages, farmhouse B&B and wild camping on a 200 acre organic Welsh family farm. Secluded, beautiful and green. Great for badger watching from the treehouse, seeing lambing live or soaking in the tranquillity. nannerth.co.uk The Old Vicarage, Dolfor, Powys, Mid Wales A former Victorian Vicarage offering 5-star accommodation and a licensed restaurant. It's in the hills above Newtown so expect peaceful relaxation with views that stretch for miles, plus home-grown produce, hens and local organic free-range meats. theoldvicaragedolfor.co.uk Cwmbiga Farm, nr Llanidloes, Wales Award winning 4* cottages sleeping up to eight, in the Hafren Forest and Cambrian Mountains. Plus B&B accommodation in a refurbished Grade II farmhouse. A great base for activity holidays and breaks from the hustle and bustle. Small party discounts. cwmbiga.co.uk YHA Brecon Beacons, Brecon, Wales Formerly known as Llwyn y Celyn YHA Brecon Beacons is set in 15 acres of ancient woodland, overlooking the River Tarell with views towards Y Gyrn - great countryside for walking or cycling holidays. Tasty home-cooked food and local ales served. yha.org.uk The Forest B&B and Cottages with hot tubs, Powys, Wales A beautiful country house in a secluded rural setting, 3 mi to Newtown. The 5 star B&B has 5 en-suite bedrooms, guest lounge and fine views; 4 self catering cottages and log cabin have a hot tub, gardens, tennis court, play area, games room and wifi. bedandbreakfastnewtown.co.uk Brynich Farm Cottages, Brecon Beacons, Powys, Wales, UK Set in the heart of the Brecon Beacons, our converted 18th century farm buildings offer beautiful accommodation in four seperate cottages; sleeping a total of 20 guests we happily take dogs. We are sure you will enjoy this stunning setting. brynichcottages.co.uk Alltybrain Farm Cottages Brecon Beacons Wales Superb self-catering cottages for two and friendly, comfortable farmhouse bed and breakfast. Situated in peaceful farmland with extensive views of The Brecon Beacons and surrounding countryside. alltybrainfarmcottages.co.uk Beili Helyg Guest House, Brecon Beacons, Wales In the secluded, rolling hills of the Brecon Beacons lies Beili Helyg, an 18th Century stone built farm house. Ideally located for both walking and cycling routes, the farm house also offers spectacular panoramic views of the surrounding moorlands. beilihelygguesthouse.co.uk Woodland Waterfalls, LLANIDLOES, Wales Dog friendly, secluded converted bungalow for four, sitting in natural woodland in mid Wales. With stunning gardens the gigantic windows overlook the grounds, surrounded by waterfalls, stream, pools and wildlife. Explore the surrounding landscape. countrycottagesonline.net Aberhyddnant Farm Cottages, Brecon, Powys, Wales Two comfy cottages on a 220-acre working organic farm in the heart of the splendid Brecon Beacons National Park. There's fresh spring water, home produced organic meat and eggs. Great for walks and bike rides in outstanding countryside. abercottages.com Lon Lodges, Mid Wales, Wales Two five-star lodges, each sleeping six, which have been sustainably built using locally sourced timber. Take in the relaxing and beautiful countryside of Mid Wales, enjoy the wonderful walks, mountain bike tracks and peaceful lanes for cycling. lonlodges.co.uk Luxury Lodges, Caersws, Wales Six family-run luxury lodges on their own private grounds in the mid-Wales cambrian mountains countryside, with Snowdonia to the north and Cardiff to the south. Each with a hot tub and gorgeous panoramic views of the open countryside. luxury-lodges-wales.com Owl Barn Retreat, Powys, Wales Owl Barn, a cottage offering a stunning, pet-friendly rural retreat, surrounded by rolling fields and wildlife. 1 mile from the pretty village of Llanrhaeadr ym Mochnant in the heart of the Berwyn Mountains, perfect spot to relax or be active. owlbarnretreat.com Rose Cottage, Dutlas, Powys, Wales Get away from it all in a charming, cosy cottage in Mid Wales: discover some of the country's most beautiful scenery, rich in wildlife and a real sense of escape - a true eco friendly cottage, but one that doesn't sacrifice any home comforts. rosecottagedutlas.com The School Annex, Talybont-on-Usk, Brecon, Wales Set in the Brecon Beacons National Park we offer a high standard of self catering accommodation and great green credentials. You can take time out to relax or be as active as you want, even star gaze in our dark sky reserve, all on the doorstep! staybeacons.com The Peren, Hay On Wye, Wales A 19th century barn offering space, peace and privacy near to the quirky town of Hay on the English Welsh border. A green, luxurious and stylish base from which to explore the area's dramatic countryside and the Brecon Beacon's national park. theperen.com Cantref Coachhouse, Brecon Beacons, Wales A warm and cosy one-bedroom cottage, sleeping 2 persons, in the heart of the countryside. Perfect for couples looking for a romantic break and to get away from it all. There's walking, cycling and riding direct from the doorstep. brecon-cottage.co.uk Carno Farm, Brecon Beacons National Park, Wales A group of lovingly restored barns and farmhouse in the heart of the Brecon Beacons National Park, under the west shoulder of PenyFan with direct access onto the hills & mountains. Ideal for families and those wanting to get away from it all. carnofarmbrecon.co.uk Llanilid Holiday Cottages, Brecon Beacons, Wales Four and five star converted barns in the heart of a splendid 220 acre organic farm. The perfect base for an activity packed holiday, exploring the Brecon Breacons National Park or a stress free mini-break. llanilidcottages.co.uk Merryfields Barn, Crickhowell, Brecon Beacons, Wales A 4* quality barn with stunning views of the River Usk, Black Mountains and historic Crickhowell town. With oak beams/floors in the bedroom, a heated limestone floor downstairs, walk-in shower and Japanese square bath. merryfieldsbarn.com Nannerth Country Holidays, Rhayader, Mid Wales Delightful 4 star cottages, farmhouse B&B and wild camping on a 200 acre organic Welsh family farm. Secluded, beautiful and green. Great for badger watching from the treehouse, seeing lambing live or soaking in the tranquillity. nannerth.co.uk Yr Hen Stablau Self-Catering, Dyfi Valley, Wales, UK Unfussy, renovated stables overlooking the peaceful Dyfi Valley woodland near Machynlleth. It has impressive eco credentials including solar energy, underfloor heating and woodburning stove. Dogs are welcome and it is wheelchair accessible. selfcateringcottagewales.co.uk Penpont, Brecon Beacons, Wales Magnificent Penpont is set in lovely grounds in the middle of a 2000 acre working rural estate in the heart of the Brecon Beacon National Park. The self catering wing is attached to the main house, accessed via a private courtyard. penpont.com Baddegai Holiday Cottage, Brecon Beacons, Wales Recently refurbished, 4 large en-suite bedrooms that can be either doubles or twins. Surrounded by fields with views to Pen-y-fan. Direct access on to the Brecon Beacons. Wood burning stoves, oak pannelling, beams. Dogs & children welcome. breconbeaconscottagebreaks.co.uk Cosy Under Canvas, Domes, Mid Wales The Cosy Under Canvas dome glamping site lends itself to a relaxed, alternative break away from the trappings of a hectic life. It's perfect for those who love the idea of a unique, low impact and eco-friendly camping holiday. cosyundercanvas.co.uk Eco Retreats, Powys, Wales Way out west in the wilds of Wales, deep in the forest and miles from anywhere, find some peace and quiet in the sumptuous surroundings of these well-furnished tipis (and one yurt). Good for a romantic getaway or family holiday. ecoretreats.co.uk Glanmor Isaf Farm, Feather Down Farm, Talybont, Wales You'll find this fantastic collection of tents hidden in an orchard behind the old farmhouse, with fantastic views across to Snowdon and a fantastic selection of coastal paths, cycle tracks and nature reserves at your doorstep. featherdown.co.uk For information on local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Mid Wales

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Mid Wales, Paul Bloomfield picks out a selection of cafés, restaurants, pubs and inns for local food and drink. Two words sum up the food scene in Mid Wales: fresh and local. A flourishing food scene, inspired by the country's rich culinary heritage and an abundance of edible natural goodness on its doorstep, has put the region firmly on the foodie map. Wales even has its own food oscars – the True Taste Wales Food & Drink Awards, an annual event which celebrates some of the country's finest flavours. Traditional favourites such as laverbread (confusingly not bread at all but seaweed), cockles, Bara Brith (a delicious sticky fruitcake), Welsh Cakes and Welsh Rarebit are as popular now as they've always been, and Welsh black beef and Welsh mountain lamb, cheeses and locally-produced drinks can be enjoyed in markets, festivals and food events across the region. We have handpicked a selection restaurants, pubs, inns, and cafés which will allow you to sample the very best of Welsh food. Enjoy! Black Mountains Smokery Black Mountains Smokery Shop is Jo and Jonathan Carthew’s gourmet food and hamper business. Based in Crickhowell in the Brecon Beacons, they offer a UK wide mail order and gift service online or over the phone, as well as a lovely shop. Their award-winning smoked fish, meat and cheese, produced at the smokehouse, sourced with care from British suppliers are traditionally cured and naturally oak smoked. Delicious food delivered with friendly, reliable service. Don't miss a weekly Wednesday tour and tasting; an informative guided walk around the smokery including slicing demos, serving suggestions, sampling and a free product. Booking is essential to avoid disappointment on 01873 811566 smoked-foods.co.uk Bridge Café Outdoor enthusiasts Carole and John have created just the sort of place they would hope to find after a long day exploring the surrounding Brecon Beacons. A short stroll from the centre of Brecon, the Bridge Café offers locally-sourced, hearty food and a relaxed, informal atmosphere. You’ll find delicious things like slow cooked Welsh lamb stew and salmon from the Black Mountains on the menu, and there’s bike storage and plenty of maps and local info for walkers and cyclists. Retire on full bellies to comfortable rooms (2 double, 1 twin) upstairs. bridgecafe.co.uk Gregynog Hall This old house used to be a grand estate, but has recently been transformed into a university conference centre, with a café on site. Local suppliers include Monty’s Brewery, Tanners for wines, and Henllan Bakery for bread; vegetables and meat is sourced locally. Homemade Ice-cream and chutneys are all available to buy in the shop, as well as the chef’s homemade speciality sausages. gregynog.org The Machinations Café From crowd-pleasers, such as lasagne or shepherd’s pie, to a huge range of cakes and sweet treats (the lemon drizzle or apple pie are not to be missed), The Machinations Café serves local food with a friendly service. All their dairy products and meat are sourced from within Wales, such as their fantastic free-range pork sausages. machinationswales.co.uk The River Café On the banks of the River Wye on the edge of the Brecon Beacons, and within spitting distance of Wye Valley Walk path, Hay-on-Wye and the Black Mountains, this friendly café is the perfect place for a quiet coffee, lunch with friends, or a great stop off for well-deserved refreshments. The ever-changing menu features things like local Herefordshire steak and homemade pesto pappardelle. The café’s on the Sustrans cycle network. The café owns the canoe hire over the road so you can try your hand at wielding a paddle if neither walking nor cycling’s your thing! wyevalleycanoes.co.uk The Workhouse Gallery and Café A lovely café with an interesting side-line. This workspace was created by the owners to carry out repairs on National Trust carpets, a job they have been doing for over 30 years. In recent times, The Workhouse has seen expansion and now includes a café and a gallery which showcases events and exhibitions. The lovely, light café serves lunches – such as homemade soups, savoury tarts and salads – homemade cakes and speciality coffee and organic soft drinks. theworkhousegallery.co.uk Dolforwyn Hall Overlooking the serene Severn valley, the imposing Gothic villa stands in several acres of mature gardens. Through the doors, the austere exterior gives way to a welcoming, friendly atmosphere within. Local, seasonal ingredients are used in dishes such as local smoked mackerel salad and seasonal fruit crumble are served up in the cosy, timber-framed dining room. Eight, traditionally-dressed en-suite bedrooms upstairs enjoy gorgeous, green views. dolforwyn.com The Bear Hotel A bustling bar, an award-winning restaurant, lovely, bright rooms, and a 14th-century building located in a busy market town in the heart of the Brecon Beacons. Owners Judith and Steve have created a menu that changes with the seasons: you might find local crab chowder, Welsh Rarebit, and stuffed field mushrooms, to be enjoyed either in the intimate, candle-lit dining room, or the larger dining room. You’re spoilt for choice for things to do: walking, cycling, and visitor attractions aplenty, right on your doorstep. bearhotel.co.uk The Old Vicarage The slate-roofed, blush-coloured guesthouse is surrounded by ancient, Mid Wales countryside which rolls away in every direction. Four spacious rooms upstairs, named after nearby rivers, are country-chic, with floral wallpaper, pretty bedsteads, and good linen. You’ll wake to delicious smells wafting into your room; organic breakfasts await you downstairs. Having notched up years of experience in some of the country’s best restaurants over the past few decades, Tim and Helen now offer an exciting, Welsh-focussed menu, which includes dishes like organic Hafod Cheddar cheese soufflé with apple, beetroot and walnut salad for starter, and roast Welsh mountain lamb with orange and laverbread sauce for main. theoldvicaragedolfor.co.uk Tipple ‘N’ Tiffin at Theatr Brycheiniog This popular little canal-side bistro is housed in Wales’ first solar-powered theatre, Theatr Brycheiniog. Have a bite to eat before the show, or stay on longer to enjoy a full supper. The menu is dictated by the seasons and includes dishes such as Deep fried Penclawdd Cockles, home-cured charcuterie, slow-roasted Welsh lamb, and plenty of Welsh cheeses. brycheiniog.co.uk The Harp Inn A traditional old pub with heaps of country inn charm, the Harp Inn has been serving locals and visitors alike since 1720. There are casks ales from Herefordshire and Wales, and a regular supply of guest ales. The seasonal, locally-sourced menu features things such as the Harp’s ploughmans, featuring lots of local Welsh cheeses, and homemade steak and Wye Valley stout pie. Glasbury-on-Wye is a fantastic location for all sorts of outdoor activities, and is within striking distance of lots of interesting and historic market towns, such as Hay-on-Wye and Brecon. Folk, Irish and jazz music nights are regularly held at the pub, as well as quiz nights and dart tournaments. theharpinn.co.uk The Horseshoe Guest House and Restaurant This 200-year old stone-built characterful restaurant and guest house is located in Rhayader, which claims to be one of the oldest market towns in Mid Wales. As far as locations go, it’s hard to beat: you’re just a few minutes’ from the River Wye and at the gateway to the Elan Valley and dams – cyclists, walkers and birdwatchers will find plenty of entertainment here. The modest restaurants offers up plenty of locally-sourced fare, such as delicious soups, Welsh Black beef, and locally-caught Salmon. They also have their own allotment for vegetables and hens which provide eggs for breakfasts; there are B&B rooms for guests looking for an overnight stay. rhayader-horseshoe.co.uk The Lion Hotel The red-bricked Lion Hotel is a small country pub in the tiny village in the heart of Wales. The hotel purchases as much locally-sourced produce as possible and uses seasonal ingredients for their homemade dishes. All meat is from Bruce Williams, the local butcher; the bar stocks a wide range of local Welsh ales. Friendly staff are a font of knowledge on the surrounding area. There are B&B rooms upstairs, and two self-catering log cabins on the edge of the village. lionhotel-llanbister.co.uk The Tanners Arms Originally three cottages housing workers of the nearby tannery, the Tanners Arms is a lively village pub which prides itself on a great selection of real ales, including regular monthly guest ales. Expect crackling log fires, brass pans hang on exposed stone walls, and comfy rooms upstairs should you wish to extend your visit. tannersarmsinn.co.uk For information on local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Mid Wales

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Mid Wales, Paul Bloomfield picks out a selection of local visitor attractions, including art galleries, festivals and historic sites. Mid Wales seems to have bagged more than its fair share of world-renowned festivals and events. From Hay to Green Man to Brecon Jazz, the region hosts dozens of exciting and creative cultural festivals. From music to literature to sport, this quiet region comes alive every summer with throngs of revellers who descend on Mid Wales' green fields in search of music, merriment and entertainment. If you love visiting the theatre on holiday, Mid Wales won't disappoint: the region has plenty of venues where you can sample theatre, comedy and dance. And with such an impressive historical legacy, it's little surprise that there are endless historic sites to visit in the area. From castles and stately homes, to ancient ruins and underground caves, there's plenty to keep the whole family entertained in all weathers. Corris Mine Explorers Wandering round these abandoned Welsh slate mines feels a little like you’ve set foot on a film set: tools, machinery, candles – even cigarette packets – are still where they were discarded by miners after the closure of the mine in the 1970s. Mark, your guide, will help you explore the damp tunnels and underground workings through several different experiences, from an hour-long taster trip to a half-day journey of exploration and discovery, which takes you along two miles of tunnels. corrismineexplorers.co.uk King Arthur’s Labyrinth Sail underground with your mysterious hooded boatman and go back in time into the Dark Ages. Be regaled with tales of King Arthur, dragons and ferocious battles, and other ancient Welsh legends. There’s something to entertain everyone, young and old alike. Cool in summer and dry in wet weather, this is the perfect all-weather attraction. kingarthurslabyrinth.co.uk Powis Castle This dramatic, red-bricked medieval fortress is encircled by world-famous gardens, replete with statues, an orangery and terraces. It has been in the Herbert family since 1578 but its history goes way back to the 13th century. Play a spot of croquet on the lawns, visit the animal cemetery, soak up the history within or simply wander the beautiful gardens. There are trails for the children and events that take place here throughout the year. nationaltrust.org.uk/powis-castle-and-garden For information on nearby places to stay, local food and drink, and adventure activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Mid Wales

Paul Bloomfield follows in the (bare) footsteps of pilgrims through the centuries on a walk across the sands to Normandy’s famous monastery-mount One second I was happily tramping across the bay, enjoying the of soft, moist sand between my toes. Next moment the ground started wobbling beneath my feet, as if I were atop a particularly flaccid waterbed. Then, before I knew it, I was calf-deep in quicksand. I knew, of course, how to extract myself from quicksand. You don’t watch Indiana Jones movies without picking up such tips. Grab a nearby vine (making sure it’s not actually a snake), and haul. Except the Bay of Mont St-Michel in far west Normandy isn’t overendowed with vines (or snakes). While I pondered my quandary, the sand clasped my ankles in a clammy grip that got tighter by the second. Fortunately, help was at hand in the shape of, well, a hand – that of Bertrand Vaintan, an experienced guide who’s been leading pilgrims across the bay for 19 years. “Don’t freak out,” Bertrand advised as he grabbed my arm, “or you’ll just sink deeper. Wiggle your legs to loosen the hold, step backwards to make the sand firmer beneath your feet, then carefully lift out your legs.” Before long I was back on (relatively) solid ground, watching as the gloop filled in the holes left by my legs. Soon it would once again look like just any other patch of sand. Quicksand is just one of the perils that faced pilgrims on the final leg of their journey to the abbey of St Michael. Europe’s highest tides, reaching 15m at their spring peaks, rush in “as swiftly as a galloping horse” – at least, so Victor Hugo claimed. And when fog descended to obscure the route across the bay, many perished. Today, guided walks to Mont St-Michel from the mainland coast safely shepherd tourists as well as the devout on the 6km walk across the sands at low tide. Learning about the quicksands that still await the unwary is just one of the fascinating perks of such a walk. In fact, there’s a lot to learn, largely history – religious, military and natural. “I’ve been guiding here for 19 years, but I’m still learning,” mused Bertrand. “Just when you think you understand the bay, it changes.” Setting out from the Bec d’Andaine near Genêts, north of Mont-St Michel, Bertrand provided a brief run-through of the key moments of the 13 centuries since, in AD 708, Bishop Aubert of Avranches was ordered by St-Michael to build a church on the rock then known as Mont-Tombe (‘Tomb Mountain’). After a Benedictine monastery was established and relics of the saint fetched from southern Italy, pilgrims began to flood in, bringing wealth to the abbey which evolved from a modest Romanesque church to the awe-inspiring gothic monument that gobsmacks visitors today. An hour’s splashy walk brought us to Tombelaine, Mont St-Michel’s smaller sibling. Here, ruins of a tower recall the failed 15th-century English attempt to capture the fortified abbey during the Hundred Years’ War; remains of the earlier chapel at which pilgrims prayed en route to their final destination are long gone. The only residents today are nesting snowy egrets and the odd peregrine falcon. On we walked, pausing to watch godwits foraging in the silt. We crossed fast-flowing streams, jumping as mullets splashed upstream to escape the brine, to the base of the mount where the silt created ice-rink-slippery conditions. As we picked our way cautiously from the precipitous, tree-clad northern slope to the south where the village shelters within tall ramparts, the recent transformation of the mount became clear. Twenty years after a groundbreaking project to rescue the mount was launched, flushes controlled by an innovative barrage have washed away much of the saltmarshes and silty buildup that had been engulfing the mount. The causeway and carpark that long blighted the approach to the abbey have been largely ripped away, and by the end of the summer the last diggers will be gone, making this the perfect time to visit (or revisit) this magical place. After a century yoked to the mainland, at high tide Mont St-Michel will be an island once more. Words and photos by Paul Bloomfield == More information: Bay walks offer just one way to admire the mount’s facelift. Kayaking tours provide a sea-level perspective, as well as opportunities to explore the mainland shoreline, and the walk over a new wooden footbridge from the informative information centre on the mainland also rewards with lovely views, unspoiled by ranks of cars. Brittany Ferries has convenient overnight sailings from Portsmouth to St-Malo. Buses run Tuesday-Saturday from St-Malo to Mont St-Michel. Guided walks across the bay cost from €5.50 per person, depending on numbers. The newly refurbished 18th-century Château de Chantore offers B&B in five beautifully furnished doubles/suites, some with views of Mont St-Michel, from €165/€250. == Disclosure: Paul Bloomfield was a guest of the Normandy Tourist Organisation. He had full editorial control of the review, which is written in his own words based on his experience of visiting Normandy in the summer of 2015 for Greentraveller's Guide to Normandy. All opinions are the author's own.

Sarah Baxter samples the food scene of  Caen là Mer gion, joining Parisians stocking up on fresh fish and learning about Normandy's love of all things apples and pears Fingers crossed, I descended the creaking stairs of the guesthouse to see if he’d been... It was 6.30am. Was it too early? When I reached the hallway, I found the bread hatch – in the back of the big front door, just below the letterbox – full of fresh baguettes and patisserie. “The baker has a key,” the owner of had told me the night before. Surely the best thing since sliced bread. I took the delicious delivery back up to my garret and tucked in. It was going to be a good day. Early mornings in Normandy’s Caen La Mer region were proving very rewarding for the foodie traveller. The previous day I’d arrived in Ouistreham, the port of Caen, on the overnight ferry from Portsmouth to find fishing boats unloading their catch. The town, at the mouth of the River Orne, has a year-round daily fish market, and traders were already setting out their wares: shiny muscles and sea snails; silvery mackerel, slabs of sole, crimson gurnard; crabs still flexing their pincers. A couple stood by their car, boot open, coolbox waiting. “People come from Paris for the weekend and stock up before they go home,” guide Florence told me as we walked past, inhaling the fish-n-sea-salt air. I’d been glad to see Ouistreham’s market; I was also pleased Florence introduced me to C Simard’s, the port’s best glacier et confiseur– “they’ve even made Camembert ice cream,” she told me. But the fresh bread and flaky croissant, eaten in my stylish Caen loft apartment, was an even better start. And, I hoped, it would set me up for my next, more unusual, food foray. David arrived at the door with my chariot: a Segway Personal Transporter. And, after a 90-second course on driving this strange but thankfully straightforward electric contraption, I was let loose on the cobbles of Caen. I followed David into Place St-Sauveur, navigating around the medieval centre’s pavement tables and plant pots, past the old St-Sauveur church and the people browsing the many bookshops. Then we veered off-road, up onto the ramparts of Caen Castle. Founded by William the Conqueror in 1060, it’s one of the largest medieval fortresses in Europe and provides sweeping views across the city. We whizzed around, then took the old peasants’ path: after paying their tithes, the poor would exit the castle via the Port de Champs to party in the Vaugueux (the ‘beggars’ vale’). This neighbourhood, with its tight-packed crooked houses, has retained its old character; now, bars and restaurants spill onto the cobbles. “This is the place to come for Norman specialities,” David said as I swerved to avoid a chalkboard hawking poulet et crème camembert and tripes à la mode. We didn’t stop. We were heading back towards St-Sauveur, bound for narrow Rue Froide, one of the oldest streets in the city, and a little shop called La Boîte à Calva. Inside we found a barrel topped with tasting glasses and a man called Guillaume, waiting to pour. “Let’s start with poire!” he enthused, handing out a dry, fruity perry and explaining Normandy’s skill and expertise with all things apples and pears. Cider, which has been drunk for millennia, was a beloved tipple of the Norman Vikings. By the 16th century Normandy’s lords and farmers alike were distilling the region’s apple-fizz to create calvados. This sweet liquor now has its own Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée; there are three designated production areas in the region and a huge amount of variety and innovation. “The new generation of calvados makers are really interesting,” said Guillaume as he served up a sparkling cider and an unusual cidre tranquille. “They’re all choosing to go to wine school, learning those skills first. In 20 years, calvados will be huge!” Guilliame cracked open a jar of pork terrine – “perfect with a woody pommeau” – before handing me a taster of the fortified apple wine. Then we tried Guilliame’s current favourite calvados, a Louis Dupont XO: “It’s like an Irish whiskey, only there’s more magic in the fruit than in using a plain malt.” It was smooth and warming, with hints of peach. I took another sip, glad I was done Segwaying for the day. To finish, Guilliame got out the tergoule – Normandy rice pudding. “The name means something like ‘twist mouth’,” Guillaume explained. Some say it’s the expression caused by the spiciness of the cinnamon, but Guillaume had another theory. “You’d go to your grandparents house and, with luck, you’d smell the tergoule already cooking,” he said. “It takes eight hours, and it would be so hot when you ate it, because you couldn’t wait for it to cool down.” He contorted his face as if he’d just eaten molten lava. Then he opened a bottle of Baileys-like crème de Calvados and tipped some into the tergoule. Delicious. Just don’t tell grandma... More information: For further information on Normandy, visit www.normandy-tourism.org For further information on Caen and Ouistreham, visit www.caenlamer-tourisme.fr Book your accommodation in Normandy with Sawdays: www.sawdays.co.uk/france/normandy Book your transport to Normandy with Brittany Ferries: www.brittany-ferries.co.uk Words and photos by Sarah Baxter == Disclosure: Sarah Baxter was a guest of Normandy Tourism and Brittany Ferries. Sarah had full editorial control of the review, which is written in her own words based on her experience of visiting Caen in the late summer of 2018 for Greentraveller's Guide to Normandy. All opinions are the author's own.

Harriet O’Brien enjoys a foodie tour of Normandy and tastes ice cider and succulent scallops, and visits some of the region's Michelin-starred restaurants You must, must, must taste this,’ says David Goerne, beaming with pleasure as he presents me with a dish of exquisite amuse-bouches. I feel I’m destroying a work of art as I put a swirl of paper-thin beef carpaccio in my mouth. But that concern vanishes in a burst of sublime flavours. David is the chef and co-owner of Caudebec en Caux in the Vallée de Seine area of Normandy, and in February 2016 he was awarded a Michelin star for his outstanding cuisine here. I’ve come for lunch, sampling Le Manoir’s less expensive brasserie fare (delicate handmade pasta with shaved truffles) as well as David’s fine dining cuisine (those amuse bouches and an amazing dessert of smoked beetroot and white chocolate). Over coffee, David extols the virtues of the ingredients on his doorstep. He’s particularly excited about the beef. It is remarkable, top-quality Kobe-style meat, he says, from cattle raised on a brilliantly creative farm down the road. [Photo: David outside Le Manoir de Rétival; Le Manoir de Rétival] Of course I want to see this for myself, so off I go to Le Boeuf Cidre just a few kilometres west. It’s a family farm, revolutionised by Francois-Xavier Craquelin, a former banker who has been enormously successful in adapting Japanese methods of rearing beef in Normandy. His herd of about 100 doe-eyed brown-and-white Normande cattle have a bucolic life, eating the finest grass, enjoying massage machines in their stalls and drinking the farm’s cider – a low-alcohol variety made for the cows. Francois’ cider production is almost as impressive as his cattle raising. He explains that his orchards are planted with about 30 different varieties of apple trees whose resulting cider is as much for human as for cow consumption. The cider is made entirely naturally (no sulphur or yeast) and he’s particularly pleased with his recently developed ice cider, created from apples picked in winter and then cold fermented. Nibbling Norman Neufchatel cheese, we sample some of this nectar. Tart and sweet at the same time, it has an intense taste and a pleasing, honey-like aroma. What a wonderfully green and epicurean region. Just off the ferry from Portsmouth to Ouistreham, I had started my foodie trip around Normandy at the nearby honey-stone city of Caen. Having explored its formidable castle, I browsed the Friday morning market along Place Saint Sauveur, the oldest of the city’s 10 or so such weekly events – they say, it’s the most local, too. It offered a cornucopia of farm produce, from freshly dug carrots to huge celeriacs and tables of jellies – cider, plum and more. I savoured some of this in fantastically sophisticated form at Initial restaurant nearby. Marvelling at a striking combination of salmon and spinach, I was told that Initial is the fourth of Caen’s restaurants to win a Michelin star, another award newly made in February 2016. I headed west to Bayeux, taking in the town’s famous tapestry and its ornate cathedral before calling in at Au Fin Gousier, a wine and cider shop in the centre of the medieval town. Here the proprietor, Michel Peron, conducts tastings on request. We sipped three AOP ciders, made from at least 25 different apple varieties, and took in the aromas of calvados – at 40 per cent proof this apple spirit was more than a tad too strong to be imbibed as an afternoon pick-me-up. Take a 15-minute drive north of Bayeux on the quiet, rolling D6 and you reach Port en Bessin. Painted by both Seurat and Signac, this charming fishing village is the de facto scallop capitol of France. I strolled its restaurant-lined inner harbour watching colourful boats unloading their nets and then walked along its extraordinary beach where in place of pebbles and sand you find thousands of scallop shells. You need to visit between October and April for the scallop season – best of all come for the Goût du Large seafood festival in mid November. Moving east round the coast, I stopped at the small village of Asnelles near the WWII floating harbour at Arromanches. Here is a pretty-as-a-picture bakery that has been making biscuits for some 112 years. Everything, Antoine Cormier the owner and baker explained, is very traditional, from the recipe to the ingredients used: eggs from local farms and, key to the taste, PDO (protected designation of origin) butter from Normandy’s Isigny area further west. [Photo: Antoine Cormier in his kitchen; Les Sables d'Asnelles] There was more traditional fare that evening. I spent the night inland at the village of Sainte Marguerite de Viette where Les Petits Matins Bleu is a complex of self-catering studios pleasingly set in an orchard. The owner, Anne Bourbeau, offers evening cookery classes in her house, so after a fortifying glass of pommeau (a mix of apple juice and calvados) we set to, making supper. Normandy-style salad was prepared with raisins, homegrown walnuts and local lettuce accompanied by a vinaigrette that was uplifted by a bit more pommeau. Mains was a chicken casserole – cooked with cider and garnished with Normandy cream. The following afternoon, having visited the Vallée de Seine and enjoyed a tour of the innovative Boeuf Cidre farm, I made tracks back to the coast through farmland gently undulating under big skies. Before heading to catch a ferry home from Le Havre I stopped at the ancient town of Fécamp. I walked along its harbour, a vibrant venue of fishing boats, yachts and restaurants, then headed a few streets up to Palais Bénédictine. Museum, art gallery, distillery all in one, this is an extraordinary place created by the wealthy wine merchant Alexandre Le Grand in the 1860s. A brilliant pioneer in marketing, he revived the making of an ancient elixir created by Benedictine monks, renamed it Bénédictine and constructed a glorious neo-gothic palace in which to display his distillery to the world, alongside a gallery showing his fabulous art collection. People came in droves. They still do. And most leave with a bottle of Bénédictine bought on site for they show you how to make wonderful cocktails here – and, like so much in Normandy, they are deliciously piquant. Words and photos by Harriet O'Brien == Disclosure: Harriet O'Brien travelled to Normandy with Brittany Ferries and her trip was organised by Normandy Tourism as part of Greentraveller's Guide to Normandy. Harriet has full editorial control of the review, which is written in her own words based on her experience of visiting Normandy in the summer of 2016. All opinions are the author’s own.

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Normandy, Paul Bloomfield picks out a selection of places to stay in this wonderful region in northern France. Normandy’s choice of accommodation can justifiably be described as ‘eclectic’. Hotels and B&Bs have been created within a host of historic structures: châteaux and charming wooden caravans, an ancient leper colony, a former school, the shell of a medieval castle keep. There’s innovation, too: an ‘earthship’, half-buried in the ground and fully self-sustaining for power and water; tents suspended high in the forest canopy; even lodges within a safari park. You can bed down in self-catering lodges, yurts, tipis, a cider barrel or a converted dovecote. Or enjoy the delights of a flower-draped cottage, a stylish hotel or a grand retreat in a vast estage. One thing each place has in common is its commitment to a small environmental footprint – without sacrificing comfort or convenience. Using our carefully picked network of accommodation, you’re set to explore every corner of this most fascinating French region. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Normandy: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places to stay in Normandy Château de Chantore, Normandy, France This 18th-century mini-palace is remarkable not so much for its treasury of period art and furnishings, but for the passion and verve of Bernard and Iñaki, the antiques-loving pair who have restored it so wonderfully. chateaudechantore.com Clos Saint-Gilles, Normandy, France A leper colony might seem an odd choice for conversion to a guesthouse – but this 17th-century half-timbered building and adjacent farmhouse captured the imagination of Gilles and Joëlle de Champ, both passionate about old structures and gardens. leclossaintgilles.fr La Ferme des Isles, Normandy, France There’s an art to blending heritage with contemporary styling and comforts, a balance that La Ferme des Isles strikes with élan. The meadows roll down to the River Eure, and animals are on hand to play cute, making this place ideal for families. lafermedesisles.com Le Boistier, Normandy, France Jean and Gilberte, progressive owners of this magnificent 15th-century manor house, restored using traditional local methods, cherish their situation in the Parc Naturel Régional du Perche. And they’re keen for you to appreciate it, too. giteduboistier.com Manoir de la Fieffe, Normandy, France Just a short hop from the dramatic northern coast of the Cotentin Peninsula, and convenient for the port at Cherbourg, this 16th-century manor house has three suites, a substantial bedroom and a self-catering cottage in the old bakery. manoirdelafieffe.com À l’École Buissonnière, Normandy, France At this gem of a converted girls’ school (opened in 1878, but in a much older building), there are no long lists of rules, no homework, just a sensitively restored and furnished B&B in the historic centre of Honfleur just steps from the old port. a-lecole-buissonniere.com Au Clos Monbrun, Normandy, France Two bedrooms in this sensitively restored farmhouse furnished with beautiful antiques each offer their own delights. The south-facing double has views of an 18th-century bread oven (planned for conversion to another guestroom) and flower garden. auclosmonbrun.com Une Partie de Campagne, Normandy, France As the name suggests, this restored 19th-century farmhouse is an idyllic spot for a house party – particularly for vegetarians, with gourmet fare cooked using ingredients from the organic vegetable plots. Lovely village of Lyons-la-Forêt a short hop. chambresdhotes-normandie.fr Le Coq à l'Âne, Normandy, France There’s more donkey than chicken evident at this old family farmhouse, thoughtfully restored using a mix of traditional and modern eco-friendly methods and materials. The Âne in question is on hand to lug your picnic on a hike! lecoqalane.fr La Vielle Abbaye, Normandy, France A 17th-century farmhouse on a working dairy farm provides a wonderfully luxurious base for a family holiday in the Suisse Normande. Kids love the huge outdoor play area, indoor play barn and pet paddock with horses, ponies, sheep and cats. frenchfarmhouse.fr Gîte La Mouche, Normandy, France A lovingly converted press makes a wonderful family retreat sleeping four, restored with strong green to create a cosy interior with pellet-burning stove for cool evenings. Extensive gardens with a bewildering array of plants. Mont St-Michel nearby. manche-tourism.com Gîtes de la Fontaine Secrete, Normandy, France A trio of quirky, highly individual options comprise this unique set-up in a peaceful hamlet in the Suisse Normande: a stone-built 17th-century former bakery, Le Four à Pain; cute A-frame Chalet du bout du monde, sleeping up to six. B&B option too. gites-fontainesecrete.com L’Esprit du Bocage, Normandy, France Restored by a Dutch family using traditional materials just five years ago, this typical granite house sleeping up to five is ideally placed for discovering Mont St-Michel and the landscapes of southern Manche – hence the name: Spirit of the Bocage. espritdubocage.com Cabanes de la Grande Noë, Normandy, France Play Tarzan or Peter Pan in your very own treehouse, slumbering up to 16m above the forest floor while boar, rabbits, deer and owls graze, scamper and hoot around and beneath you. Sensitively constructed treehouses nestle amongst the old beeches. chateaudelagrandenoe.com Cerza Safari Lodge. Normandy, France Sleep among the wildlife of Africa with a stay in a safari park – a ‘roar and snore experience'! Take your pick from yurts sleeping two to five, lodges sleeping two, or 15 ‘zoobservatories’: cute wooden A-frame cabins with living/dining areas cerzasafarilodge.com Domaine de la Cour au Grip, Normandy, France If you really want to immerse yourself in the apple-centric culinary culture of the Calvados département, why not bed down in, erm, a cider barrel? A 10,000-litre vessel has been furnished with windows and a comfortable double bed. ledomainedelacour.com Le Refuge du Clos du Moulin, Normandy, France Feel like playing nomad – but with the comforts of a glamping retreat? This collection of tipis, yurts and even a covered wagon straight out of the wild west offers the chance to sample the life of the Mongolian steppe or North American prairies. lerefugeduclosdumoulin.com Perché dans le Perche, Normandy, France Retreat to the branches of a sublime treehouse at the top of an immense chestnut tree overlooking the valleys of Le Perche Natural Park, Normandy. Breakfast delivered in a picnic basket to your balcony. You won't want to come back down to earth. perchedansleperche.com Villa Fol Avril, Normandy, France Each of the twelve light and airy bedrooms have unusual layouts and exposed beams and are filled with antiques salvaged from local markets. Feast on regional dishes in the restaurant, and there’s masses to do in the area. villafolavril.fr Le Landemer, Normandy, France A beautiful sea-facing hotel which had a total refurbishment in 2014. Just a short hop from Cherbourg, you've got 80km of wild coastline on your doorstep - a perfect spot for families, watersports enthusiasts and those after a bit of relaxation. en.le-landemer.com La Ramade, Normandy, France Two beautiful villas, one with rooms in a palette of pastel shades, the other an elegant, spacious and contemporary space for a romantic break away. Historic sites aplenty on your doorstep and lots of family-friendly attractions within easy reach. laramade.fr Hotel La Chenevière, Normandy, France An exquisite château with a fascinating past. Twenty nine decadent ensuite bedrooms and twelve hectares of grounds to roam – rose gardens, pool, a walled vegetable garden. Dinner is a local feast, and the honey at breakfast comes from their own bees. lacheneviere.com Le Grand Cerf Hotel & Spa, Normandy, France A contemporary twist on an old dwelling: plenty of rustic, woodland charm and chalet-style rooms with checked fabrics and statement mirrors on wood-panelled walls. Authentic Norman flavours in the bistro and a spa and treehouse in the grounds. grandcerf.fr For information on local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Normandy

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Normandy, Paul Bloomfield picks out a selection of places to eat in this wonderful foodie region of northern France. Possibly more than any other region in France, Normandy knows how to make the most of its natural ingredients. Some flavours will be familiar: with bountiful orchards producing the finest apples, it’s no wonder Normandy is famed for its cider, calvados (apple brandy) and tarte Tatin – a delectable upside-down apple tart. Milk from cows grazing the emerald grass lend a distinctive flavour to a panoply of soft cheeses, most familiar being rich Camembert, ancient Neufchâtel and strongly scented Pont-l'Évêque. Unsurprisingly, there’s wonderful seafood, too, plus traditional salted caramels, goat pâté, pear cider and more. It’s one thing to have the resources, another to know what to do with them. No problem here: from vegetarian restaurants to organic markets, farm shops and fine-dining eateries, the journey from farm to fork is made in style. We’ve rounded up the best places to buy and eat Normandy’s fabulous produce, helping you discover the region’s delightfully varied flavours. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Normandy: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places to eat in Normandy La Ferme de l’Aritoire A pair of goats might not seem like the most obvious wedding present, but for this couple it ignited a lifelong passion for goat farming. In 1983, Annie and Christian bought a ramshackled farmhouse and set about creating their business. Thirty years later, they now have fifty goats and a thriving fromagerie, artisan soap-making business (using herb and flower-infused goats milk) and farm shop selling, amongst other products, goat terrine and goat meat, all located on their farm in the depths of the Perche National Park. Open March-December. Their products can also be found in markets across the region. fermedelaritoire.com Honfleur Organic Market Held every Wednesday at Place Sainte-Catherine, Honfleur’s Organic Market has been running for nearly twenty years, selling 100% organic produce from local suppliers, from fruit and vegetables, bread, cheese and eggs, to cosmetics, wine, cider and meat. From 8.30 til 1pm (5pm during July and August) Carameuh Following the 2009 dairy strike when French farmers started protesting against the low price offered for their milk, this dairy farm started up the production of traditional salted-caramels using the milk from their own herd of Normande cows. The shop on site also sells a range of local produce, from cider and wine, to dairy produce straight from the farm. The farm also runs tours every Wednesday when you can learn about the production of Carameuh and its history. cara-meuh.com La Maison Ferré Along the Voie Verte cycle route which runs along the Canal des Deux Mers, just 5km from Mortagne au Perche, you’ll find this farm shop run by Grégoire Ferré who has taken over the apple production on his family’s 60 hectare farm, a third of which is given over to orchards. Open from April to September, this shop sells medium dry cider, Calvados, apple juice and sparkling apple juice, as well as other apple-based products, such as cider and apple jelly. A refreshing find when tackling the canal path in the heat of the summer! Chateau de Canon This beautiful 18th-century house and gardens – with foundations that go back to the Middle Ages – is a must-see for any visitor to the area. Wander the glorious interiors, roam the gardens (amongst the most beautiful in Normandy) with follies and swan-dotted lakes, and finish off with a visit to the cave à cidre – yes, one of Normandy’s finest chateaux has its very own cider cellar where you can sample and buy cider produced on the Canon estate, as well as apple juice, pear juice, marmalades, preserves and organic calvados. Open all year from 10am-7pm. chateaudecanon.com La Maison du Vert This pretty redbrick building used to be the village bakery, but the homemade organic bread served up by the small restaurant is only a tiny crumb of the story. The culinary delights are enough to turn the most staunch carnivore vegetarian – for the evening, at least. Tuck into wild mushroom and chestnut steak, homemade red gooseberry ice cream, wash it all down with homemade liquors and organic wines. In warm weather eat out amongst the orchards in the lush country gardens where chickens roam and sheep graze. There are three B&B rooms too if the prospect of a delicious organic breakfast is too much to ignore. maisonduvert.com/restaurant.htm Le Bistrot des Ecuries In the heart of the Perche National Park, full of forested hillsides and rolling landscapes, lies this 17th-century farmhouse, revived from ruin by foodies Ulli Rudolph and Sandrine Strauch who have blended their passions for fine wine, regional cuisine, and horses. The simple, daily-changing restaurant menu offers up plenty of local fare: try rib of beef with Belleme mushrooms or ravioli with Mortagne black pudding. There’s wine-tasting in the cellar, B&B rooms upstairs for overnight visitors, and stunning grounds and gardens to explore. If you arrive on horseback, there are stables and paddocks for your trusty steed. The owners have also partnered with Perch’Orizon to offer horse-riding excursions through the Perche region with a gourmet lunch stop. bistrot-des-ecuries.com L’Hermeville Much of what you’ll find on your plate at this family-run restaurant near arty Fecamp comes straight from the huge allotments in the lush gardens, from the herbs and sorrel to the radishes and peas; the orchards and fruit trees offer up quinces, apples, walnuts and chestnuts which make their way into flans, tarts and other mouthwatering puddings. There are lots of exciting local dishes on the menu too: rabbit terrine with red onion jam, local snails, smoked trout and mackerel from Fecamp (it’s an historic fishing town). The traditional half-timbered Norman manorhouse is home to husband and wife team Noémie et Jean-Charles Vautier who run this place with passion and spirit, and an unwavering respect for local culinary traditions. Le Goût Sauvage The ‘wild’ (‘sauvage’) in the name of this much-celebrated little restaurant gives away the nature of its food: ingredients are foraged locally, grown on site, caught in the sea (just a few kilometres away) or bought locally. The menu is simple and unfussy: expect things like grilled sea bream with buckwheat polenta, fruit crumbles, and local cheeses with homemade thyme and rosemary jelly; it’s very reasonably priced, too. Their website has reams on information on their local suppliers, who they talk of like old friends. Time your visit with one of their evening concerts – they regularly hold music events throughout the year. legoutsauvage.typepad.com La Ferme des Mares Tucked away in a maze of country lanes on the west of the Cherbourg peninsula is La Ferme des Mares, a small, chic hotel and restaurant headed up by a British chef with a passion for seasonal produce and French culinary traditions. As you’d hope from a restaurant within sniffing distance of the sea, fish makes a daily appearance on the menu: cuttlefish tagliatelle, seared scallops, roasted monkfish. For afters, try lemon thyme pannacotta or baked cheesecake with sour cherry sorbet. Roll up your sleeves and become chef for the day on one of Mike’s cookery courses. la-ferme-des-mares.com/en Le Volet qui Penche Whether you’re looking for a light lunch, an evening meal to linger over, or pre-theatre bottle of wine and charcuterie, you’d be hard pressed to find a better spot than this much-loved little restaurant set in a wine cellar in beautiful Bayeux. The limited menu is chalked up on the board daily – expect classic country French cuisine with fantastic local cheeses and a great wine selection. Generous, gracious host Pierre Henri will talk you through the wine lists. Great atmosphere, reasonable prices and all within striking distance of Bayeux’s top sights. Le Logis de Brionne In pretty Brionne's centre is this smart hotel/restaurant, whose head chef Alain Dupoix whips up exciting dishes influenced by the seasons. Vegetables come straight from the garden, pastries are homemade, and local farmers and vineyards provide meat and wine. Dishes include things like confit of duck with oregano and local turbot with lemon chutney jus. For afters try the delicious chestnut ice cream and homemade macaroons. Everything is beautifully presented and the attentive, descreet staff are a font of knowledge on ingredients and cooking methods. In summer, enjoy dining al fresco on the lovely terrace. lelogisdebrionne.com/ Le Jardin des Plumes Surrounded by country gardens filled with weeping willows and duck ponds less than an hour from Paris, this hotel and restaurant in Giverny is one of the region's most popular. Tuck into fabulously inventive food amid glistening crystal chandeliers and Art Deco flourishes in the dining room. Top chefs serve classic dishes with a twist – French, fresh and modern: try the hake with lemongrass jus and the melt-in-the-mouth rack of local lamb. jardindesplumes.fr/fr/ For information on local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Normandy

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Normandy, Paul Bloomfield picks out a selection of local attractions in this glorious part of northern France. It’s no surprise that history looms large in this part of France. Large, and long: with Norman castles and abbeys dominating many parts, echoes of William the Conqueror and Richard the Lionheart ring across the landscape. But the intervening centuries haven’t been too quiet. The famed abbey was built and expanded on Mont St-Michel; lacemakers perfected their art in Alençon; the new liqueur, Bénédictine, was created to a secret recipe; pedigree horses were bred and trained, artists inspired and the Allied invasion successfully completed via the D-Day landing beaches. You can explore the past at castles and cathedrals, floating harbours and horse studs, Monet’s garden and the museum housing the incredible Bayeux Tapestry. We’ve provided practical details to help you visit and enjoy ten of the most fascinating attractions in Normandy. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Normandy: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places of interest in Normandy The Mont Saint-Michel With its needle-spired abbey piercing the sky above scores of medieval buildings tumbling down the sides of its rocky island, the sight of The Mont Saint-Michel reflected in the waters of its eponymous bay is one of the world’s great spectacles. Founded on the directions of a divine vision in AD 708, the oratory – now a mighty abbey – on the Mont has drawn pilgrims for 13 centuries. Today it’s more magical than ever: with the removal of the causeway and removal of silt around its flanks, the Mont is, at high tides, an island once more. Climb the winding Grand Rue, lined with half-timbered houses, to explore the mesmerising abbey church, in part dating from the 11th century. ot-montsaintmichel.com/ Haras National du Pin (national stud) The ‘Versailles of the Horse’ is a 1,000-hectare estate in the Orne Valley, a legacy of Louis XIV’s decision to move the royal stud here from Saint-Léger. Created to produce the finest horses for military use and for royal enjoyment at Versailles itself, the château of Le Pin, stables and other buildings are themselves fascinating to discover. But most absorbing is a visit to the 40 or so breeding stallions of the finest pedigrees, representing 10 different breeds, either on a guided tour or the self-guided Discovery Trail. Visit on a Thursday and you might enjoy a horse-riding display, while races and other special events take place over the summer. haras-national-du-pin.com/ Bayeux Tapestry A detailed historical document? Extravagant Norman propaganda? Or the world’s most famous graphic novel? Stretching 70m and incorporating 58 key scenes in the unfolding saga of William’s conquest of England, the tapestry – actually a fine piece of embroidery, probably commissioned in 1077 by William’s half-brother, Bishop Odo of Bayeux – is fascinating as much for the border details as the main episodes. Look for Halley’s Comet and men grilling brochettes (skewers). The tapestry is displayed in an excellent museum with insightful commentary. The town of Bayeux is itself worth exploring in depth, with its massive medieval cathedral, museum commemorating the WWII Battle of Normandy and nearby war cemetery. The Saturday morning market brings together local producers of traditional food. bayeuxmuseum.com/en/the-bayeux-tapestry/ Château Gaillard More than eight centuries since it was built, the remains of the bastion ordered by Richard the Lionheart in 1196 still loom over the twin towns of Grand and Petit Andely. With walls 4m thick and a virtually impregnable eyrie above the winding Seine, Château Gaillard was Richard’s redoubt against the incursions of King Philippe-Auguste of France into Normandy. Wander the streets of riverside Petit Andely, between its half-timbered old houses and fine restaurants, then climb to the castle for spectacular panoramas across the Seine. There are fine walks in the area, and frequent medieval-themed events in the castle itself. en.normandie-tourisme.fr/hidden-gems/chateau-gaillard Fondation Monet/Claude Monet’s Home and Gardens The pioneer of the impressionist movement bought his house in Giverny in 1883, and spent half his life here. In its colourful rooms and, particularly, the two enchanting gardens he created, he drew inspiration for some of his most memorable works – and a visit shows why: the dreamlike Jardin d’Eau (Water Garden) is particularly evocative, with its water lilies, pool and Japanese bridge still mesmerising nearly a century after he died. Visitors enter through the studio where he daubed his Nymphéas (Water Lilies) series, then explore the house, decorated in vibrant yellows and blues, admiring the Japanese prints that influenced his work. fondation-monet.com/en/ Le Palais Bénédictine, Fécamp This fishing town set amid the soaring white cliffs of the Côte d’Albâtre owes its fame to two miraculous liquids. The first, a drop of Christ’s blood, reputedly floated here in a tree trunk; its arrival sparked the construction, under Richard the Lionheart, of the 12th-century Abbatiale de la Sainte-Trinité, a wonderful abbey church. The second was the creation in 1510 of a secret elixir, a concoction devised by the Benedictine monk Dom Bernardo Vincelli using herbs including angelica, hyssop and 25 other (still secret!) ingredients. Centuries later, in 1863, the recipe was rediscovered by Alexander Le Grand, and the production of Bénédictine liqueur began. Visit the museum to admire works of art and temporary exhibitions, the distillery and the drink itself – try a sample or even join a cocktail-making class. en.normandie-tourisme.fr/museums-and-heritage-sites/the-benedictine-palace-2/ Rouen Two millennia of history seep through the streets of this ancient city, founded in the 1st century AD, laid out in 911 by Duke Rollo, the viking founder of Normandy, and site of the trial of Joan of Arc in the 15th century, it was severely damaged during WWII. Historic highlights include the spectacular Notre Dame Cathedral, with a 151m-tall spire that was, when built in 1822, the tallest in France; the Gros Horloge, the gilded 14th-century clock that’s the country’s oldest; and the Aître-Maclou, the grimly fascinating medieval plague charnel-house. The city’s artistic heritage is well represented at the Musée des Beaux Arts, with a fine selection of impressionist works and other pieces from the past six centuries. Two new attractions make a visit even more memorable: the Panorama XXL (www.panoramaxxl.com), a giant 31m-high rotunda displaying the world’s largest circular artworks, like a vast camera obscura; and the Joan of Arc History Museum, housed in the 15th-century archbishop’s palace. rouentourisme.com/ Parc Naturel Régional des Boucles de la Seine West of Rouen, the Seine meanders in a series of exaggerated loops for 180km to the coast at Le Havre, forming swathes of wetlands – the 4500-hectare Marais Vernier – and watering the verdant Forêt de Brotonne. The Curves of the Seine Natural Park encompasses these habitats, along with delightful villages and the remains of medieval abbeys – visit the ruins at Jumièges, Saint-Wandrille or Saint Georges de Boscherville. At Moisson, the Base de Loisirs et de Plein Air is a 25-hectare outdoor playground offering climbing walls, tennis courts, archery, mountain-biking trails and windsurfing and sailing on the lake. pnr-seine-normande.com/ Parc Naturel Régional des Marais du Cotentin et du Bessin This area spanning some 250 sq km of low-lying marshland, rivers and canals on the Cotentin Peninsula is a haven for birds – look for white storks, Montagu’s and marsh harrierr, lapwings, yellow wagtails, whinchats and bitterns. The Baie des Veys is an important staging post for migratory species flying between the Arctic and west Africa, and welcomes various gulls, waders and ducks. Spring and summer see wetland meadows spangled with orchids and other blooms. This is fine territory for walking and cycling, and there are opportunities for canoeing and kayaking, too. parc-cotentin-bessin.fr/ Parc Naturel Régional du Perche Probably the least populated part of Normandy, the Perche is still dominated by rolling hills topped with forests of oak, beech and ash. Now largely protected by a huge natural park covering nearly 2,000 sq km, the Perche remains a slow-moving, rural region where the forests of Reno-Valdieu, Bellême, Trappe and Senonches seem unchanged in centuries. Ancient megaliths lurk among the trees, along with red squirrels, wild boar, black woodpeckers and roe deer; in spring you’ll find carpets of bluebells while in autumn mushrooms emerge – join an expert for some fungi-foraging in Bellême forest. It’s also famed for its apple orchards, producing wonderful cider and calvados. Some 1,000km of marked trails crisscross the Perche, so it’s perfect for walkers and cyclists – or you can explore on a guided nature trek on a horse-drawn carriage. parc-naturel-perche.fr/en Suisse Normande Though perhaps not as similar to Switzerland as the wistful name suggests, this region of crag-lined hills and woods, alongside the gorge of the Orne River south of Thury-Harcourt, is an attractive patch of countryside to explore – ideally by bike (be aware of the many hills!) or kayak. Both Thury-Harcourt and Clécy have outfits renting canoes, kayaks and mountain bikes, while the latter is also the place to head for hang-gliding. Walkers follow the trails up the 205m-high Pain de Sucre massif – and you can enjoy a ride astride a donkey to take the strain off the climb suisse-normande-tourisme.com Parc Naturel Régional Normandie-Maine Straddling the border of Normandy and Maine regions, this natural park was founded in 1975 and celebrates its 40th anniversary in 2015. Like other parks in Normandy, the many trails beckon walkers, cyclists and horse-riders through forests bustling with deer and the occasional wild boar, while overhanging crags tempt rock-climbers and kayakers paddle streams and rivers. There are plentiful reminders of times past, too – ruined castles such as the crumbling remains at Domfront, and even echoes of neolithic times in the tall banked-up hedges demarking the bocage farming landscape. parc-naturel-normandie-maine.fr/ For information on local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Normandy

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Normandy, Paul Bloomfield picks out a selection of local activities in this adventure-laden part of northern France. What’s your preferred adrenaline level? A bracing stroll along a dramatic clifftop path, or a high-octane whizz through the treetops on a zipline? Normandy is blessed with a diverse array of landscapes, each lending themselves to a variety of activities. Wide sandy beaches provide racing tracks for sandyachting. Rolling hills, forests and high cliffs demand to be hiked. Woodland tracks echo to the gentle clop of horses’ hooves. Rivers buried amid rocky gorges provide ideal kayaking routes. In short, there’s plenty here to keep enthusiasts and beginners alike occupied, whatever your fitness levels of interests. We’ve rounded up the woodland adventure playgrounds, the horseriding outfitters, the special walks and even botanical painting classes to provide a tempting menu of activities to burn off some energy and help you get under the skin of the region. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Normandy: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Activities in Normandy Horse-drawn nature treks The Perche is a wooded, hilly region at the far south-east of Normandy, a rural district known particularly for the draught horse breed that originated here two centuries ago. The ideal way to discover the flora, fauna and and heritage of the area is aboard a horse-drawn carriage pulled by a pair of powerful Percherons, accompanied by naturalist guide Céline Maudet. Clopping gently into the heart of the Parc Naturel Régional de Perche, between the forest of Reno-Valdieu and the Huisne valley, Céline reveals hidden spots and introduces the animals and plants that make this area so special. Tours are suitable for disabled visitors. attelagenaturedansleperche.blogspot.com/ Cycle the Historical Route Set off from the D-Day Landing Beaches and discover 130 miles of greenway and quiet roads in the beautiful bocage countryside en route for the Mont Saint-Michel. en.normandie-tourisme.fr Cycle the Avenue Verte The Avenue Verte joins London and Paris. When you arrive in France, you get of the ferry at the bustling port of Dieppe and head into the Norman countryside to explore the local scenery and taste the excellent food including Neufchâtel cheese. Why not take a detour to Giverny to see where Monet painted along the Seine before heading on to Paris! en.normandie-tourisme.fr/ Cycle the Véloscenic route The Veloscenic is perfect new itinerary along 275 miles from Notre-Dame in Paris, past stately homes, gardens, natural parks and villages to the UNESCO-listed Mont Saint-Michel and its bay. en.normandie-tourisme.fr/active-outdoor/cycling-in-normandy/ A J Hackett Normandie - The Ultimate Adventure Company Gustave Eiffel’s Viaduc de la Souleuvre was a feat of engineering when it opened in 1893, carrying a railway line atop stone pillars rising above the valley floor. Now just the pillars remain, topped by the AJ Hackett bungy-jumping platform – hurl yourself from 61m up with just a rubbery cord to stop your fall. Of course, you don’t just have to drop: you can top-swing from the pier, reach 120km/h on the bottom swing, hurtle along on a flying fox zipwire or zoom down on a vast luge slide – a huge buzz for children. ajhackett.com/normandie/ Woody Park Adventure Just a stone’s throw from the beach at Fécamp, Woody Park has action-packed fun for all the family with 5 different treetop courses with one designed just for three year olds! woody-park.com/en/ Visit the oyster beds in a horse-drawn carriage A fun way to see oyster beds by heading out to sea in an open carriage pulled by local shire horses. And of course, you get to taste the oysters on your return to dry land. agmg.jimdofree.com/ Golf de Granville Just north of the lively seaside resort of Granville, this 27 hole course is a true links and dates back to 1912. The Albatros restaurant en site is the perfect 19th hole which serves great food in a friendly atmosphere. golfdegranville.com/links-of-granville-1912/ For information on local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Normandy

Rhiannon Batten provides a few tips for how to have a green eco escape in Paris From the exquisite elegance of the Place des Vosges, to the gargoyles of Notre Dame and the gracious boulevards built by Haussmann, it would be implausible not to love Paris. A global hub for art, fashion and architecture, Paris is known worldwide for its romance and urban chic. Yet with over 70 Michelin-starred restaurants, some of Europe’s greatest museums, beautiful open parks and endless art galleries, this is not just a city for young fashionable couples. A perfect urban break, Paris boasts a café culture and dining scene to satisfy even the most demanding foodie, a range of cultural attractions to suit all ages and interests, and some of the most alluring backstreets in Europe. Did You Know Paris gets its name from its 3rd Century inhabitants, known as the Parisii Paris has nearly 70 Michelin-starred restaurants Over 300 organised events take place everyday in Paris, from concerts and exhibitions to theatrical performances. Paris has 6 international train stations: Lyon, Nord, St-Lazare, Est, Montparnasse, and Austerlitz. Paris is one of the most popular cities in the world, receiving about 30 million visitors a year Where to Stay Below are a some of the greener places to stay that we have selected in Paris, chosen for their commitment to reducing their draw on energy, encouraging guests to use more sustainable forms of low carbon transport, and sourcing local, seasonal food. If you're planning to stay near to where Eurostar drops you off at Gare du Nord railway station, see: Hotels near Gare du Nord, including Hotel Mademoiselle (handily situated between Gare du Nord and Gare de l'Est train stations) and Le Robinet d'Or, a 12-minute walk from Gare du Nord (and 7 mins to Gare de L’Est). If you're looking for a cheaper/informal alternative there are plenty of hostel/hotels in and around Paris, see: Hostels in Paris, including Avalon Hotel Paris (less than 5 minutes walk from Gare du Nord) and Hotel De Rocroy, a three-star hotel just a few minutes walk from the station. Hidden Hotel, Paris, France This haven of tranquility offers a truly relaxing experience, with beautiful boutique bedrooms furnished with sustainable natural products. Despite the secluded feel, it's within walking distance of the impressive Arc du Triomphe and Champs-Elysées. hidden-hotel.com Hotel Gavarni, Paris, France Just across the river from the Eiffel Tower, this three-star hotel boasts fabulous views and impressive eco credentials: it was the first independent hotel in Paris to be awarded a European Ecolabel and has a strong commitment to the environment. gavarni.com Solar Hotel, Paris, France As the name suggests, this vibrant, budget eco-hotel generates its own electricity from solar cells. It offers simple, colourful rooms, a cosy garden, free bicycle hire and organic breakfasts, and is conveniently located near the Metro. solarhotel.fr Hi Matic Hotel, Paris, France In the ever-more hip Bastille neighbourhood, Hi Matic is a bold, bright hotel that certainly provides a unique experience: as a hybrid urban eco-lodge and fully automated hotel, it feels like a fusion of a youth hostel and a Japonese Ryokan. St Christopher's Inn, Paris, France This cheerful backpacker hostel boasts a picturesque setting on the waterfront, in a neighbourhood you may recognise from the film Amélie. It has a sociable atmosphere and keen efforts at energy and water conservation. Places to Eat Les Fines Gueules, Paris French classics are served at this tiny bistro of much charm. Les Fines Gueules is located near Les Halles, and prides itself on using the freshest of ingredients, sourced as locally as possible. Suppliers are handpicked and staff are delighted to give chapter and verse on them when asked. The blackboard menu features the likes of rack of Lozere lamb with apple puree. Two courses cost around €28 without drinks. lesfinesgueules.fr Lafayette Organic, Paris Café and deli, this Paris hotspot opened in January 2011. Set on the ground floor of the landmark Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann, it’s a sleek outfit with floor-to-ceiling windows and striking contemporary décor – locals call it ‘bio-cool’. From bread to smoked salmon, apple tart and pastries all the food here is organic and seasonal, and most of it is locally sourced. Le Potager du Marais, Paris Try the mushroom terrine at this organic vegetarian café close to the Pompidou Centre. Or the carrot and cauliflower curry. Expect to pay around €12 for a main course - and to sharpen your elbows and jostle for space: the restaurant is tiny and very popular. lepotagerdumarais.fr Les Grandes Tables de L'île, Paris Head out to Ile Seguin, a short walk from Pont de Sevres metro station, where you’ll see work in progress on Jean Nouvel’s new arts complex as you make your way to one of city’s most ingenious restaurants. Clad in scaffolding and looking like a cross between a greenhouse and Noah’s Ark, the building is a temporary structure that will be dismantled in about two year’s time when the Ile Seguin project is completed. In the pleasingly airy loft space inside, chef Arnaud Daguin serves largely organic, ‘flexitarienne’ cuisine – which emphasises vegetables and is sparing on meat. You’ll pay around €24 for two courses (the likes of courgette gratin and roasted duck for mains). lesgrandestables.com Local Attractions in Paris Markets in Paris Head to Boulevard des Batignolles, between Rome metro station and Place de Clichy, on a Saturday morning to enjoy one of the city’s best organic markets. From cheesemakers to gardeners you’ll usually find in excess of 30 stallholders, all with certified green accreditation. Head south the next day for an even bigger (and some say better) organic market on Sunday mornings at Boulevard Raspail on the Left Bank. Complete with purveyors of homeopathic remedies and biodynamic wines as well as epicurean spreads of breads, fruits, vegetables and more, it is a wonderful display of organic abundance. Ethical shops in Paris Go eco-chic. The fashion label Somewhere offers a beautifully styled range of men’s and women’s wear made from organic, recycled and natural materials. Shirts, tops, jackets, coats and trainers are all made with the finest of cottons, linens, mohair and more, with a portion of the profits of each sale supporting environmental causes. somewhere.fr Cité des Sciences et de I’Industrie, Paris This is a hi-tech, hands-on museum par excellence, injecting an enormous sense of fun into science while also highlighting ethical questions and environmental issues. Among the host of attractions and exhibitions are sections on energy and transport on the first floor and sea and climate on the second. Created on the site of the city’s old abattoir in the Parc de la Villette, the huge and very striking museum building is currently being given a revamp, bringing it up to date with the latest eco-friendly outlook. cite-sciences.fr Musee Carnavalet, Paris Set in the enchanting Marais district, this is a near-magical museum which gives a considerable insight into domestic life in 15th-18th century Paris largely through room sets. Salvaged from old buildings, these historic interior design schemes - from glittering chandeliers to finely carved wall panelling and wooden floors - are breathtaking. They are housed in the sumptuous mansion where Madame de Sevigné famously entertained Paris society in the 1600s - and even more famously commented on the visitors in letters to her daughter. carnavalet.paris.fr Activities in Paris Walks in Paris Take an inspiring hike along the old – and disused - Vincennes railway line in the east of Paris. The track has been redevised as La Promenade Plantee, a footpath some 4.5km long that runs from just behind the Bastille opera house to the Jardin de Reuilly via an elevated walkway now lined with studios of craftsmen and artists. promenade-plantee.org Electric cars, Paris Autolib’ is operated very much along the lines of the well established urban bike sharing schemes that have proved such as success across France, the idea being that you pick up a car from one centre and drop it off at another. Launched with 250 cars, it is in the process of developing a network of 1,100 stations and recharge centres with 2,000 cars – all to be accomplished by June this year. Meet the locals, Paris Get right off the tourist radar and meet resident craftsmen, artisans, shopkeepers and other locals. Paris Par Rue Meconnues is a non-profit organisation training and employing young people to show tourists real, ‘hidden’ Paris by taking them through quiet areas to meet and talk with people who live there. Among a host of options, you can take a cheese-tasting tour, a stroll around Montmartre, and a trip to discover the soul of the Canal St Martin. paris-prm.com

Rhiannon Batten provides a few tips for how to have a green eco escape in London One of Europe’s busiest and best cities, London offers everything from iconic architecture and lush green parks to an eclectic and exciting mix of places to eat, drink and stay. World-renowned attractions such as the Houses of Parliament, Big Ben, Westminster Abbey and the London Eye jostle for visitor’s attention with theatre, live music, street art, shopping and a range of acclaimed museums. For those looking for a bit more activity, options include walking tours, cycling, or boating and kayaking on the Thames. Food here is definitely a highlight, with everything from Michelin-starred restaurants to a diverse range of international street food and cafes. Where to Stay London's history spans millennia, and nowhere is this more evident than in its architecture. Centuries-old townhouses rub shoulders with sleek, modern creations; 1960s apartment blocks live happily alongside more salubrious addresses. And with so many quiet canalsides, lush gardens and endless green space, you'll sometimes find it hard to believe you're slap bang in one of the world's most populous cities. North to south, east to west, London is cosmopolitan to its core, and, as one of the most visited cities in the world, the accommodation scene is similarly diverse. Whether you're looking for a traditional B&B experience, a frills-free hotel that won't burst the budget, an all-out stay in a penthouse apartment or something a bit more unusual, London caters for all. Below are some of our favourite, environmentally-sensitive places to stay in this lively, loveable city. If you're planning to stay near St Pancras International Railway Station, see: Hotels near St Pancras, including the Great Northern Hotel, St Pancras Renaissance Hotel, or for a cheaper option, the Excelsior Hotel in Camden. If you're looking for an informal alternative there are plenty of hostels in London, see: Hostels in London, including Journeys King's Cross and YHA London St Pancras. One Aldwych, London, England One of the standout places to stay in London, this is a luxury hotel with an environmental conscience. Convenient for enjoying the shops and sights of Covent Garden and even has a sleek, chlorine-free swimming pool equipped with underwater music. Handily located for the theatres, shops and restaurants of Covent Garden, this five-star, 105-room hotel has become one of the standout places to stay in the capital since it opened its gloriously re-imagined Edwardian surroundings to guests in 1998. Behind all the show, however, is a deep conscience. Holder of a gold grading from the Green Tourism Business Scheme and the Luxury Eco Certification Standard (LECS) from Sustainable Travel International, it recycles, uses low-flush drainage systems, follows a responsible sourcing policy in its kitchens and, best of all, has a sleek, chlorine-free swimming pool equipped with underwater music. onealdwych.com/ Apex Hotel London Wall, London, England This four-star hotel has become a favourite among both green-minded tourists and business guests, with brightly furnished bedrooms and a restaurant serving locally-sourced fresh produce, a heat recovery system and energy-saving appliances. It may only have opened in 2009 but this four-star hotel has already become a favourite among both green-minded tourists and business guests. Set in the city’s financial district but within easy reach of the Barbican and Spitalfields, it features 89 brightly furnished bedrooms and a restaurant that serves dishes made largely from locally sourced produce. Winning green points for initiatives such as a heat recovery system, water and energy saving appliances and a green roof, look out too for its new sister property, Apex Temple Court, just off Fleet Street. Equally environmentally sensitive, this features high-grade insulation, heat pumps, card readers that switch off electrical appliances and lights when rooms are not in use and a combined heat and power system designed to generate electricity with ‘waste’ heat energy. apexhotels.co.uk/ The Zetter, London, England Voted one of the world's '50 coolest hotels' by Conde Nast Traveller, this Clerkenwell boutique hotel takes sustainability as seriously as style. Housed in a fully renovated Victorian warehouse, it is designed for maximum energy efficiency. Both a member of the Sustainable Restaurant Association and a Green Tourism Business Scheme gold award holder, this Clerkenwell boutique hotel takes sustainability as seriously as style. Designed for maximum energy efficiency, its 59 bedrooms boast more eco friendly features than you could shake a hippy at. These include utilising a borehole beneath the building for drinking water, toilet flushing and to maintain a natural cooling system and bath products that contain no unnatural nasties. Bike hire and route maps are also available for guests. thezetter.com/ Beresford Terrace 2, London, England A different kind of homestay, this provides guests with a hotel experience but in a private home, and also offers a pick-your-own vegetable garden. Experience London like a local, and with a much lower carbon footprint than staying in a hotel. One of hundreds of chic London properties on OneFineStay’s books, at this two-bedroom apartment in Highbury the idea is to offer guests a hotel experience (think professional cleaning, beds made with posh linen sheets and personalised guides to the local area) but in a private home. A new spin on the homestay experience, as the apartments are only rented out when the owners are away, guests here experience London life like a local. It’s also a greener option, with a recent report by The Carbon Coach suggesting that the carbon footprint of the average homestay is 80% smaller than an energy-guzzling hotel stay. An added bonus for guests at Beresford Terrace is an immaculate, private, walled garden, with vegetable plots you can pick-your-own from. onefinestay.com/london/ Lancaster London, London, England Overlooking Hyde Park, this 416-room, four-star hotel gets a lot of repeat guests thanks to high standards of service and dramatic views. Their environmental efforts are impressive - in particular housing half a million honey bees on the roof! Overlooking Hyde Park, this 416-room, four-star hotel gets a lot of repeat guests thanks to high standards of service and dramatic views. The décor may not be as up-to-date as that at some of its competitors but there’s no questioning its eco credentials. Named AA Eco Hotel of the Year 2011-2012, awarded Gold by the Green Tourism Business Scheme, and the winner of several awards in recent years from the Considerate Hoteliers Association, not only does Lancaster London have an impressively comprehensive environmental responsibility policy but it has even installed half a million bees on its roof. Supplies allowing, the fruits of their labours are served in the hotel, and given as gifts to visiting honeymooners. royallancaster.com/ Where to Eat Waterhouse, London Owned by a social enterprise, the Shoreditch Trust, this eco-friendly restaurant serves food that’s as easy on the eye as it is on the environment. Dishes such as mushroom and tarragon ravioli in a thyme and butter sauce and three-peppered rib eye steak with duck fat potatoes and garlic mushroom sauce are beautifully presented, and made with sustainably sourced and low-carbon principles in mind. All suppliers are asked to deliver their produce free of packaging, electricity comes from solar and hydro sources, water is bottled and purified on site and a wormery digests food waste on-site. The restaurant also offers training and employment to local people. waterhouserestaurant.co.uk/ Street Kitchen, London Street food is one of the biggest eating trends in the capital at the moment. If you want to get on board there are plenty of four-wheeled fast-food outlets serving ethical and delicious street food. One of the best is Street Kitchen, which serves 100% British-sourced - and usually organic - dishes from a gleaming Airstream trailer in bio-plastic containers. Anyone for roasted Jerusalem artichokes with warm crushed potatoes, pickled red onions, Old Winchester cheese, mustard leaves and rosemary vinaigrette? thefoodinitiative.com/ The Duke of Cambridge, London The UK’s first Soil Association-certified gastropub, Islington’s Duke of Cambridge, is also one of the most atmospheric places to eat in the capital. Pop in for a pint of organic Eco Warrior ale or take a seat at one of its stripped-down wooden tables to tuck into beer battered pollack with chips, mushy peas and tartar sauce or mussels in tomato, chorizo and ale sauce. Everything on the menu is organic, seasonal and ethically sourced, with meat from small farms that are big on animal welfare, MSC-certified fish and 80% of produce sourced from farmers in neighbouring counties. It also sources its electricity from wind and solar suppliers. dukeorganic.co.uk/ Local Attractions in London Shopping in London London is well known as a shopping destination. If you want to steer a more ethical course around the city’s tills, however, there are some great specialist stores. For underwear, knitwear, jewellery, stylish bamboo yoga gear and homeware, all with a sustainable angle, try Notting Hill’s In Bloom London (call first as it’s by appointment-only on some days). For food, shop the stalls at one of London’s farmers’ markets, stock up on groceries at BeUnpackaged, where you can take your own containers to fill up by weight, or head to Thornton’s Budgens in Crouch End. Here, on Fridays in season, its organic vegetable shelves are stocked with produce from a volunteer-run garden on the shop’s roof. London Wetland Centre, London Run by the Wildfowl and Wetlands Trust (WWT) the London Wetland Centre, in Barnes, southwest London, holds a gold award from the Green Tourism Business Scheme and is one of the best places in London to escape the urban grind. Within this 105-acre wildlife reserve are lakes, pools and gardens that are home to dragonflies, bats, frogs and over 200 species of birds; depending on the time of day, and year, you visit you might glimpse swifts, sand martins, wigeon, teal, pintails, lapwings, warblers or bitterns. The centre also runs free guided tours and a regular programme of family-friendly events. wwt.org.uk/ Green spaces in London With 300 acres of carefully tended trees and plants, historic glasshouses and a treetop walkway to explore, it’s little wonder that the Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew is a UNESCO world heritage site. The holder of a gold award from the Green Tourism Business Scheme, Kew remains one of London’s prime green spaces. More recent on the scene is Thames Barrier Park, in East London, a 22-acre riverside redevelopment that opened a little over a decade ago, with picnic areas, flower meadows, lawns and great views of the Thames Barrier. Mudchute City Farm, London There are several city farms across the capital but Mudchute is the largest. Set on the Isle of Dogs, here visiting families can enjoy 32 acres of countryside carved out of what was once derelict land. Established as a park in the early 1970s, there are now over 200 animals on the site and it still operates very much as a community initiative. Volunteers form a large part of the workforce and its remit is as much about providing a recreational space for local people as it is with conservation and animal welfare. There’s also a café. Other city farms in London that are open to the public include Spitalfields and Hackney. mudchute.org/ The Crystal, London The Crystal is a £30 million urban sustainability initiative, funded by Siemens, and the first big development of the city’s new Green Enterprise District. A showcase for sustainable urban design, it provides easily accessible information on renewable energy and low-carbon transport and infrastructure while also directly illustrating how greener building techniques can make better places to live and work in. Open to school groups, city planners and members of the public, the site also includes a visitor café and restaurant serving regionally sourced food. thecrystal.org/ Activities in London Arcola Theatre, London Known for its ambitious programming, which runs the literary spectrum from classic plays to works by upcoming young writers and European dramas, the Arcola Theatre draws a dedicated audience to its slightly offbeat location, a former paint factory in Hackney. Awarded a gold rating by the Green Tourism Business Scheme, it is on a mission to become the world’s first carbon-neutral theatre, it recycles old sets, has installed hydrogen fuel cell-powered lighting in its cafe/bar and campaigns for greater sustainability in the arts. arcolatheatre.com/ Walking tours in London For a fresh – and low-carbon – insight into London, lace up some stout shoes and hit the city’s pavements with an expert guide to direct you. Urban Gentry runs a range of special interest walking tours for private groups across the capital, from fashion-focused tours to strolls around Sunday markets and hip neighbourhoods. Or, try one of Blue Badge guide Sophie Campbell’s personalised walking tours. These range from a slow pub crawl (think Slow Food but transferred to some of London’s most historic pubs) to more challenging urban treks. Kayaking in London The Thames is one of the great landmarks of London and though it’s easy enough to get a sense of this great waterway with a gentle stroll along one of its banks, if you’re looking for more adventure, see the city from a ducks’ eye view. One of the best-known local kayak operators is Kayaking London, which include a 2.5-hour trip that paddles past Big Ben at night. kayakinglondon.com/ Cycling in London If you’re looking for a classic bike tour of London, you’ll need a classic bicycle, which is where Tally Ho! Cycle Tours comes in. Launched in 2011, the company takes visitors on guided tours of the city’s sights by vintage-style Pashley bicycles that have been equipped with traditional Brooks saddles. Choose from a classic 2.5-hour Central London ride, a 4.5-hour East Thames Amble or the Royal Loop, a 4-hour jaunt around the capital’s best-loved attractions that includes a pit-stop for tea and cakes at Soho’s Secret Tea Room, a deliciously quirky, 1940s-style cafe. tallyho.cc/ Drink and Draw in London Meeting locals can be a hard task for any tourist, yet it’s often one of the highlights of a trip. If you don’t have London friends to show you their favourite neighbourhood bars, restaurants and markets, help is at hand from Frui. Although the company specialises in creative holidays, it also runs regular gatherings in London that are open to both locals and visitors. One of its most popular events is its Drink & Draw evening, where visitors spend a couple of hours meeting at a specified location for an informal drawing lesson before heading on to a pub afterwards to socialise. frui.co.uk/

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Dartmoor National Park, Paul Bloomfield picks out a selection of characterful places to stay, including B&Bs, hotels, self-catering and camping in this wild and beautiful protected area in south west England. In delightful contrast with Dartmoor’s often wild beauty is its warm hospitality: from bucolic campsites and barn conversions to stylish B&Bs and grand country-house hotels, there’s a wealth of choice here, all imbued with local character and most blessed with dramatic moorland views. We’ve rounded up a selection of the best – and most eco-sensitive – places to stay in and around the national park, all accredited with the Dartmoor First appellation, recognising their efforts to promote sustainability and local development. That might mean biomass boilers and discounts for visitors arriving on foot or by bike; it could involve special energy-saving measures or creation of wildlife-friendly habitats; it almost certainly means delicious, locally sourced or homegrown fare. Whether you’re after a family holiday or a romantic weekend break, a base for a walking adventure or somewhere to relax and be pampered, we’ve found an array of welcoming places to host you on your Dartmoor visit. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Travel Guide to Dartmoor National Park: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places to stay in Dartmoor National Park Harford Bridge Holiday Park, Dartmoor, England Alongside the River Tavy in the west of Dartmoor, Harford Bridge is a delightfully landscaped site managed to encourage local wildlife, with nestboxes, hedges, wildflowers and bird food provided. It is a Conservation Award winning park (David Bellamy Blooming Marvellous 2022) and won Gold in the 2021/22 Visit Devon Best Camping and Caravanning Park of the Year. Provides camping, caravans, cottages and lodges. harfordbridge.co.uk Lifton Hall Hotel, Devon, England A family run, relaxed and friendly hotel in the heart of southwest England. There are 10 individual ensuite bedrooms, a cosy bar and a stylish restaurant serving freshly prepared, locally sourced meals. Just what you need for a relaxing getaway! liftonhall.co.uk Overcombe House, Devon, England A four-star award winning guesthouse in Dartmoor National Park, close to the beautiful Tamar Valley Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Breakfasts are a treat, with a fab selection of local, organic, fairtrade and homemade produce. overcombehotel.co.uk Barnabas House, Dartmoor, England Barnabas House is a lovely Edwardian property beautifully refurbished to provide 6 bedrooms, all with en-suite or private bathroom and free wi-fi. Recently awarded VisitBritain 4-star award, with the Walkers' and Cyclists' Welcome accreditation. barnabas-house.co.uk Beechwood B&B, Dartmoor, England Ideally placed for exploring the wild central tors, Beechwood boasts wonderful views, beautiful gardens and delicious food. This charming B&B retains the feel of a country cottage, updated with home comforts to welcome returning walkers and cyclists. beechwood-dartmoor.co.uk Gages Mill Country Guest House, Dartmoor, England Gages Mill is a stylish and relaxed guesthouse near Ashburton and Buckfast Abbey. Six elegant en-suite bedrooms channel country style with pine furniture, contemporary floral patterns and the most comfortable beds. Serves delicious local breakfasts. gagesmill.co.uk Lowertown Farm, Dartmoor, England The quintessential Dartmoor farm, Lowertown is complete with a flickering woodburner, horses across the yard and hens scratching around the garden. Comfortable rooms and a beautiful secluded location make this the perfect rural getaway. lowertownfarmdartmoor.co.uk Wingstone Farm, Dartmoor, England A working farm, Wingstone offers excellent self-catering and B&B accommodation in the beautiful heart of Dartmoor. In a tremendous setting, and with endless possibilities for outdoor activities, this is the perfect place for an active rural getaway. wingstonefarm.co.uk West Blackdown Cottage, Dartmoor, England A bucolic 18th-century farm cottage set in its own three acres of grounds, West Blackdown is blissfully peaceful and offers tremendous views across the western moor. Spacious and comfortable, it is the perfect base from which to explore Dartmoor. westblackdowncottage.com Hunters Moon, Dartmoor, England Just north of the national park, on the Granite Way cycle trail between Okehampton and Lydford, Hunters Moon is a great base for exploring this corner of the moor. The charming 17th century cottage provides modern day comforts in a stunning setting. huntersmoon-devon.co.uk Lovaton Farmhouse, Dartmoor, England Situated on the moor’s northern edge, Lovaton is a beautiful 18th-century farmhouse carefully renovated to provide comfortable, contemporary accommodation in a stunning location. With a huge garden and 15-acre wood, this is a great rural getaway. lovatonfarm.co.uk Mitchelcroft B&B, Dartmoor, England A magical hideaway in the moor’s south-eastern quarter, Mitchelcroft manages to combine the rustic ambience of a wood cabin with elegant contemporary style and a real sense of immersion in nature. mitchelcroft.co.uk The LongHouse, Dartmoor, England This 15th-century cottage is wonderfully tucked away yet conveniently sited in the centre of the vibrant town of Moretonhampstead. Three cosy bedrooms, a beautiful garden and welcoming hosts make this a great base from which to explore Dartmoor. longhousebnb.co.uk The Arundell Arms Hotel, Dartmoor, England A fine country hotel, The Arundell Arms offers luxury accommodation, fishing and country sports, wonderful restaurants, wedding facilities and a conference centre. Perfect for events, large groups and couples. arundellarms.com Bedford Hotel, Dartmoor, England Situated in the heart of the beautiful market town of Tavistock, the Bedford is a grand, crenelated hotel with welcoming rooms, a restaurant serving delicious local cuisine and venues for weddings and conferences. bedford-hotel.co.uk Harrabeer Country House, Dartmoor, England Tucked away down a narrow lane in the village of Yelverton, Harrabeer Country House offers comfortable, friendly accommodation in the western moor. Five welcoming bedrooms are accompanied by a guest sitting room and a sock, fire-warmed bar. harrabeer.co.uk Prince Hall Hotel, Dartmoor, England This charming country house hotel has eight en-suite bedrooms, each with individual style and character and all offering sweeping views over the moors or the historic courtyard. Other highlights are the award winning restaurant and the guided walks. princehall.co.uk Bovey Castle, Dartmoor, England One of Dartmoor's grandest and most luxurious hotels, Bovey Castle is set amid wonderfully landscaped grounds with croquet lawns, tennis courts, two restaurants and its own 18-hole golf course. boveycastle.com Two Bridges Hotel, Dartmoor, England Settling into 60 acres of verdant riverside lawns alongside the West Dart, this luxurious hotel lies in the heart of the moors. With 32 elegant en-suite bedrooms, the hotel is a warm, welcoming base for exploring the moor. twobridges.co.uk Old Sowtontown, Dartmoor, England Two delightfully converted farm buildings offer comfortable, characterful accommodation with exposed stone walls and wood beams. Situated just outside Peter Tavy, close to the wild, empty expanses of the western moor, wonderful for lonely walks. dartmoorholidays.co.uk Blackadon Barn Holiday Cottages, Dartmoor, England Blackadon Farm is a fine example of a South Devon farm, its courtyard constructed of Dartmoor granite and surrounded by four acres of grounds. All of the six converted self-catering cottages offer comfortable family-friendly accommodation. cottagesatblackadonfarm.co.uk Swallow Barn, Dartmoor, England A granite barn converted in simple but elegant style, this charming cottage on the outskirts of Lydford sleeps five in three bedrooms. Boasts superb views, beautiful gardens and comfortable, stylish accommodation. swallowbarndartmoor.co.uk Langstone Manor Holiday Park, Dartmoor, England Nestling in the park’s western fringes, Langstone Manor provides the full gamut of self-catering accommodation, from tent and van pitches through wooden glamping pods to fixed holiday homes, an apartment and a pair of cottages. langstonemanor.co.uk Sparrowhawk Backpackers Hostel, Dartmoor, England One of the country’s friendliest, cosiest hostels is set in a beautifully converted stone stable, its hay loft providing space for the dorm beds. Run with the environment firmly in mind the hostel has a well-equipped kitchen and sheltered courtyard. sparrowhawkbackpackers.co.uk Woodland Springs Touring Park, Dartmoor, England A peaceful site in the northern quarter of the moor, Woodland Springs provides pitches for caravans and tents in a child-free environment. Surrounded by farm and woodland, the park is carefully managed to encourage wildlife. woodlandsprings.co.uk River Dart Country Park, Dartmoor, England A natural adventure playground for children and adults alike, River Dart Country Park is surrounded by over 90 acres of woods, lakes, riverside and grassland. Offers high quality camping and caravan facilities, as well as B&B in the main house. riverdart.co.uk Woodovis Park, Dartmoor, England Set in a lovely spot among rolling green hills above the Tamar Valley, Woodovis is a small site offering high-end camping and self-catering accommodation. Warm and friendly, the site has won many awards for its facilities and services. woodovis.com YHA Okehampton, Dartmoor, England This handy hostel has two sites – the original Goods Shed, next to Okehampton Railway Station, and Bracken Tor. Both sites offer a range of bunk rooms, some with private bathrooms, plus drying rooms, catering and dinning facilities and camping areas. yha.org.uk Devon Dens, Devon, England A unique, solid cabin made by the owners from sustainable, local wood in a pretty & private off-grid site, amidst glorious countryside. Walks, wood burner, jigsaws, guitar, books, fire pit, hot outdoor shower, peace, quiet & starry skies. Bliss. barreltopwagons.co.uk For information on local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Dartmoor National Park

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Dartmoor National Park, Paul Bloomfield picks out a selection of pubs, restaurants, and cafés to find the best local food and drink in this glorious National Park in south west England . The food scene in Dartmoor needs little introduction. Farming still plays a dominant role in the region's ecomony – about 90% of the national park land is used for farming – and the national park is scattered with beef and sheep farms, organic veg growers, breweries, and even vineyards. Farming initiatives, such as Dartmoor Farmers have sprung up to promote and safeguard local produce. We think that the food you eat on holiday is as important as where you pick to stay – wherever you chose to stay, you're guaranteed to be surrounded by good, local food. Whether it's eggs from the owners' hens for breakfast at a B&B, delicious aged Dartmoor steak at a pub with rooms, or a summer camping barbecue with ingredients sourced from the local farm shop, you can be sure you'll be supporting the local economy by putting money back into the pockets of growers, farmers and producers across the region. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Travel Guide to Dartmoor National Park: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places to eat in Dartmoor National Park The Dartmoor Inn The unprepossessing exterior to this pub, just off the A386 between Tavistock and Okehampton, shouldn’t put you off. Famed for its fabulous food, incredibly friendly service and gorgeous interiors, this pub is always packed, so make sure you book ahead. Downstairs there are parquet floors, wonky settles and open fires; upstairs, three stunning bedrooms have French upholstered beds, paisley or toile fabrics, crystal-drop chandeliers, Roberts radios. The chef has worked up a fantastic reputation in the kitchen – expect dishes such as duck with spiced pear and star anise sauce, or pink roasted rump of Devon beef. Stay the night and be treated to a feast of local goodies the following morning. dartmoorinn.com The Royal Oak Inn Named after the 800-year-old oak standing proudly on the village green opposite, and with a history that goes back almost as far, this pub has original flagstone floors, open fires, church pews at knotty oak tables – little has changed over the years. Classic pub dishes, such as hand battered fish and chips, ham, egg and chips, and ploughman’s, are made with ingredients from local suppliers – their website lists the provenance of all their produce. Drinking is taken just as seriously – the list of local ales is extensive. The beautiful reservoir at Burrator is close by, and Drake’s Trail, a network of walking and cycling trails between Tavistock and Plymouth, is easily accessed from the pub. royaloakinn.org.uk Warren House Inn High and remote, surrounded by lonely moors and frequently cut off by snowdrifts in winter, the inn has been welcoming travellers into its warm embrace for centuries. Inside, it has all the beamy, open fire, low lit cosiness you long for after a bracing, windswept ramble on the moor. The food showcases the best of the local larder: steak and ale pies using Dartmoor beef are topped with the inn’s delicious short-crust pastry, hearty soups are packed with local ingredients, delicious Dartmoor lamb shanks are infused with rosemary. The ales have come similarly short distances to get here; guest beers, such as Teignworthy, make regular appearances behind the bar. warrenhouseinn.co.uk Fox Tor Café Everyone’s welcome here – families with their noisy brood, walkers with muddy dogs in tow, business men in search of free WiFi. It’s a cosy place to while away an hour or two in, with squishy sofas, a woodburner, a kids area to keep little ones amused. Everything is made on the premises from scratch, from the scones and chocolate and beetroot cake, to the chilli and stroganoff. The café has a licence so you can wash your lunch down with local Dartmoor Brewery ale. There’s also a bunkhouse onsite, sleeping twelve people in three rooms, which has space for bikes and a drying room for boots and wet gear. Princetown is bang in the middle of Dartmoor – and the views over the surrounding moor are fabulous. foxtorcafe.com Home Farm Café You know you’re going to eat well in a café run by the founder of the renowned Ashburton Cookery School. Stella also set up the UK’s first ever organic restaurant in the 80’s and has championed local, seasonal produce from the very beginning. She and her talented team serve up a menu which is 98% local, with an emphasis on rustic, slow-cooked dishes – tuck into chunky Devon game paté, followed by slow cooked ruby Devon beef and Teignworthy ale suet pudding, and round it all off with homemade organic ice creams. The café’s walls host an ever-changing exhibition of local art, too. Located in the lovely courtyard of the National Trust Parke Estate, there are lots of local walks nearby to work off all that indulgence. homefarmcafe.co.uk For information on local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Dartmoor National Park

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Dartmoor National Park, Paul Bloomfield picks out a selection of historical and natural family-friendly attractions in this wild and beautiful protected area in south west England. Shaped by perhaps four millennia of human habitation and millions of years of geology and weather, Dartmoor encompasses a wealth of natural and historic wonders. Today its flora and fauna (well, some of them) have been tamed in enchanting gardens, farms and pony centres offering delightful days out for visitors young and not-so. The varied landscape – sometimes bleak or forbiddingly dramatic, elsewhere bucolically charming – invites you to explore gorges carved by babbling rivers, delve into fossil-festooned caves or roam rolling estates, all the while watching for wildlife and Dartmoor’s own breed of ponies. And the history – well, alongside Bronze Age cists and standing stones, you’ll find grand castles, Victorian forges and museums. A series of National Park Visitor Centres are staffed with enthusiastic locals bursting with information and ideas to help you plan your visit. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Travel Guide to Dartmoor National Park: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places of interest in Dartmoor National Park Castle Drogo ‘The last castle built in England’ is not, as a first glance might suggest, a Norman stronghold but a 20th-century confection – the dream of Edwardian retail magnate Julius Drewe and designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens. A meld of medieval and modern, this imposing granite palace lords it over the Teign Gorge; inside lurks a family home designed to provide all comforts for a wealthy country clan. The castle itself is currently closed to visitors (as of February 2014) but visit to explore the magnificent gardens and grounds, and discover the work being carried out by the National Trust to save this most extraordinary edifice. nationaltrust.org.uk/castle-drogo Finch Foundry The last working water-powered forge in England, now a National Trust property, gives a unique insight into village life in the 19th century. In its heyday the foundry was at the centre of a thriving industry, making and grinding tools for West Country farmers and miners. Today this fascinating museum, set amid beautiful north Dartmoor countryside in the village of Sticklepath, is the site of a gallery depicting the area’s heriage as well as a lovely cottage garden. Kids can forage in the dressing-up box and don Victorian costume to get in period character. nationaltrust.org.uk/finch-foundry William Pengelly Cave Studies Trust Centred on the cave complex first discovered in the mid-19th century during quarrying near Buckfastleigh, this trust works to conserve caves and the bats that live in them, as well as promoting the study and understanding of caves. Joint Mitnor is popularly known as ‘Bone Cave’ because of the important deposits dating back some 125,000 years that have been found here, including elephants, bears and rhinoceroses. It can be visited by the public on a guided walk on Wednesdays and Thursdays in August, and is open to groups between Easter and mid September. Other caves are open to members of caving clubs, and the small museum presents interesting exhibits on the geology and paleontological finds uncovered in the caves. pengellytrust.org Becky Falls Woodland Park Visitors have been delighted by the eponymous cascades and woodlands at Becky Falls for more than a century, and the range of attractions here has bloomed to include a host of family-friendly activities. Among the beautiful ancient oakwoods you’ll find wonderful walking paths, boulder scrambling and picnic areas, plus a petting zoo hosting rabbits, guinea pigs, Shetland ponies and goats. Shows display more exotic beasts such as tarantulas, boa constrictors and giant millipedes, as well as cuddly creatures including Chinese hamsters and rescued birds of prey. Kids can get involved with nature crafts at the indoor theatre. beckyfalls.com Dartmoor Nature Tours Want to learn more about the wildlife and habitats of this wonderful landscape? Phil Page has been leading tours on Dartmoor for almost three decades, and loves to share his in-depth knowledge of the moor’s species. Phil takes small groups of nature-lovers on carefully curated walks, tailored to suit the time of year. In summer you might spot butterflies, or stroll out at dusk to look for badgers, glow-worms and nightjars; autumn yields fungal treasures, and even in winter you’ll spot hardy birds that overwinter here, including fieldfares, redwings and woodcocks, as well as year-round residents including Dartford warblers. dartmoornaturetours.co.uk Lydford Gorge Dramatic, mysterious, historic: the deepest gorge in south-west England is an enticing place for a meander through shady oak woods alongside the babbling River Lyd and past sculptures, the spectacular 30m-high Whitelady Waterfall and rock formations carved by the rushing water: Devil’s Cauldron and Tunnel Falls. Walking trails offer a variety of routes, from the full two-hour Gorge Walk to shorter strolls; among the dripping ferns and mosses, there’s plenty of animal and plantlife to spot, from woodland birds to wild garlic in the spring and fungi in the autumn, and tearooms to refuel after your exertions at the moor’s western edge. nationaltrust.org.uk/lydford-gorge Parke Estate This historic estate on the eastern fringes of Dartmoor offers acres of beautiful, wildlife-rich parkland, woods and river meadows through which to wander – pick up a free leaflet describing a selection of walks. Once the home of a wealthy local family, the estate encompasses a vegetable garden, fruit orchard, ice house and other historic elements that helped the family become self sufficient, including a wonderful walled garden. Dartmoor ponies graze the meadows, which in summer are studded with wildflowers, and there’s locally baked cakes and other goodies at the café opposide the walled garden. nationaltrust.org.uk/parke Stone Lane Gardens A magical habitat of woodland and water gardens, this five-acre patch on Dartmoor’s northern edge encompasses a national collection of alders and birch trees and is a wonderful spot to explore. Dotted with sculptures – the site showcases an annual Mythic Garden Sculpture Exhibition, but many pieces remain year-round – the gardens, planted with rare and beautiful tree species, are threaded with streams and shimmering with pools, creating a serene sanctuary for roaming. The adjacent nursery sells a range of unusual and hard-to-track-down species. stonelanegardens.com Waterleat Walks & Talks In 1995, Miles and Gail Fursdon developed a micro-hydro system at their Old Walls farm, creating clean, renewable energy to power the farm and more besides. Now they offer visitors the chance to learn about how the energy from falling water is converted into electricity on a ‘Water to Wire’ walk, showing how water from the West Webburn is channelled into a leat and through turbines before returning to the river. These fascinating walks offer insights into how small projects can realistically provide reliable sources of renewable energy. waterleat.co.uk Miniature Pony Centre The clue to the main attraction is in the name – and the almost unbearably cute pony foals are certainly a big draw. But with plenty of other wonderful animals to meet – including shire and Suffolk punch horses, goats, birds, rabbits and other small furries – as well as talks and demonstrations, delightful gardens and picnic areas, assault course, indoor and outdoor adventure playgrounds, zipwire and trampolines, indoor soft play area and trampolines, there’s enough to keep kids happy all day. miniatureponycentre.com Pennywell Farm Blending a working farm with a children’s playground, Pennywell offers a diverse array of activities for kids of all ages (and has plenty to keep parents occupied, too). Animals kept here include miniature ponies, ducks, donkeys, lambs, the ever-popular micro pigs and deer – join a regular hand-feeding session. There are also four farm-themed rides, a farmyard theatre, pond-dipping zone, show field, falconry displays, cafes, wildlife assault course and plenty of play options including trampolines and an inside soft-play area. There’s a low-key educational aspect, looking at agriculture and wildlife, but the emphasis is on fun. pennywellfarm.co.uk For information on local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Dartmoor National Park