As part of our ongoing series on Car-Free Travel, Richard Hammond provides a few examples of car-free itineraries in Britain You’re never far from a footpath in Britain – there are about 150,000 miles of public rights of way in England, Scotland and Wales, and many of them can be reached by public transport. Walking to catch a bus, boat or train is a great way to begin a walk – the adventure starts as soon as you leave your house – whether you’re going on a day walk out of a city centre, or a long-distance walk across areas of great natural beauty. Many train, bus and boat operators are keen for walkers to use their services, especially at weekends, and provide multi-modal ranger tickets that you can use across their networks. Here are a few examples of car-free itineraries – simply lace up your boots and away you go. Rail To Trail This is a series of 12 self-guided walks from train stations along the Bentham Line, totalling 68 miles (109km) from Heysham Port to Skipton across Yorkshire and Lancashire. The train travels through the lovely valleys of Aire, Ribble, Wenning and Lune, passing the hills of the Yorkshire Dales National Park, before reaching the huge estuary of Morecambe Bay. Four of the stations along the route, Wennington, Bentham, Clapham and Giggleswick are handy gateways to the Forest of Bowland. The shortest walk is just 2½ miles (4km) – from Morecambe station to Bare Lane station – while the longest is the 11⅓ miles (18.2km) from Wennington station to Carnforth, the station that famously featured in the classic 1945 film Brief Encounter directed by David Lean. communityraillancashire.co.uk People Power: Find hundreds of carfree walks in the UK at carfreewalks.org and a network of walking routes that connect Britain’s towns and villages at sloways. org. Keep an eye out too for the ‘Walkers are Welcome’ logo given to over 100 towns and villages that are particularly welcoming to walkers. Heart of Wales Line Trail This trail is linked to the many of the stations along the rural Heart of Wales railway that runs between Swansea and Shrewsbury, passing through remote uplands of the Shropshire Hills Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, the Radnorshire Forest and Brecon Beacons, the woodland and salt marshes of the Loughor valley and on to the Millennium Coastal Park in Llanelli. The entire route is 143 miles (230km), but you can easily do it in car-free stages, accessing it at the various railway stations along the way. The trail also links up with several other long-distance paths such as the Shropshire Way at Craven Arms; Offa’s Dyke Path and Glyndwr’s Way at Knighton/Llangynllo; the Wye Valley walk at Newbridge-on-Wye/Builth Wells; and the Wales Coast Path at Loughor, near to Llanelli (heart-of-wales.co.uk). England’s Coast Path England’s Coast Path is a new National Trail (nationaltrail.co.uk), which will run all the way around the country’s seashore. Most sections are already open, and when it’s complete it will be around 2,800-mile long, making it the longest continuous coastal path in the world. There are any number of railways and bus connections along the route. One of the most fascinating stretches is the 11-mile (17.7km) walk along the Durham Heritage Coast from Seaham railway station to Crimdon (you can get the train back at Hartlepool railway station). Walk through the region’s industrial heritage, passing wonderful wildflower meadows and via some beautiful beaches. Keep an eye out at sea for basking sharks, they’re frequently sighted off the Durham Heritage Coast during the summer. durhamheritagecoast.org Pembrokeshire Coast Path The 186-mile Pembrokeshire Coast Path, from St Dogmaels in the north to Amroth in the south, is connected by five coastal bus services – the Puffin Shuttle, Poppit Rocket, Strumble Shuttle, Celtic Coaster and Coastal Cruiser – operating seven days a week from May to September, and two days a week in winter. They all operate on a Hail and Ride basis in rural areas, so you have to flag down the driver to stop. It means you can be picked up or set down at any point along the bus route, providing it is safe to do so. The buses go to many of the crucial stages along the coastal path, such as St Brides Bay, Marloes and Bosherston. The main gateway railway station for the coastal path is at Carmarthen, and there are bus services from Haverfordwest where the Puffin Shuttle connects with St Davids and Milford Haven. pembrokeshire.gov.uk Walks from railway stations Several rail operators provide information on walking routes from their stations: Scotrail.co.uk/scotland-by-rail/things-do/walking-routes-train northernrailway.co.uk/great-days-out/days-out/ midcheshirerail.org.uk northstaffsrail.org.uk/rails-totrails-station-walks settle-carlisle.co.uk/walks southeasternrailway.co.uk/destinations-and-offers/local-escapes/ eastsuffolklines.co.uk/walks west-somerset-railway.co.uk/walking-and-running-beside-thewest-somerset-railway greatscenicrailways.co.uk/great-days-out/walks == This is an edited extract from The Green Traveller (£18.99 Pavilion Books) by Richard Hammond

As part of our ongoing series on Car-Free Travel, Richard Hammond provides a few examples of car-free days out in Britain (see also our post on Car-free walks in Britain) Travelling on trains and buses makes the journey all part of the day out. On the way you can read the paper, play cards, take time to switch off. Without being tied to where you’ve parked the car, you can do linear walks and bike rides, and of course you can enjoy a drink before returning home. Most major cities have excellent rail and bus networks, so you can travel across town without the hassle of parking, or head out to the countryside to many wonderful visitor attractions that often give discounts if you arrive by public transport. Here are a few examples of car-free days out: leave the car and the congestion behind, and away you go! Centre for Alternative Technology (CAT), Machynlleth, Wales Learn all about modern sustainable living at the epicentre for all things green in the UK. CAT was established by a group of environmental scientists and engineers in 1973 on the site of a disused slate quarry, initially to reinvent green technologies, but it then evolved into a demonstration and teaching centre for practical solutions for a decarbonizing world. Despite its name, it now provides hands-on learning for all aspects of sustainability (not just alternative energy), including environmentally friendly building techniques, woodland management, organic gardening, ecology and conservation of biodiversity. The large outdoor centre has lots of fun wildlife activities for children to connect with nature and the environment. You can also stay overnight at CAT in one of several eco cabins (each sleeps up to 18) or in the Wales Institute for Sustainable Education (WISE) building, which has 24 twin and double rooms. From the railway station in Machynlleth, take Bus 34 or T2 to CAT. At the ticket office, it’s a 10-minute walk up the steep steps to the site’s entrance, but from Easter to October you can take a water-powered cliff railway up to the top (cat.org.uk). Plan a good journey: Find how to travel car-free to many of the UK’s best visitor attractions with discounts when you arrive by train, bus, bike or on foot at goodjourney.org.uk New Forest Tour, Hampshire The car-free New Forest Tour is a hop-on, hop-off bus service that runs each summer on three circular routes around the ancient forest and to the coast at Barton-on-Sea and Milford-on-Sea. From the top deck of the open-top bus, there are grandstand views of the wild ponies grazing and the many historic villages of the New Forest, en route to places such as the Beaulieu National Motor Museum, Ringwood Brewery and Hythe Ferry, home to the world’s oldest pier train where you can take the short return ferry ride over to Southampton. The flexible hop-on, hop-off tickets mean you can stop off and spend some time at one of the attractions along the way and re-join the bus later in the day. The tour calls at Brockenhurst railway station, which has frequent trains from London, so it’s an effortless, car-free day out from the capital as well as from cities along the south coast, such as Southampton, Bournemouth, and Salisbury. thenewforesttour.info Whinlatter Forest Park, Keswick, Cumbria England’s only true mountain forest, Whinlatter Forest provides views across Bassenthwaite Lake, Derwentwater and Keswick and is home to the longest purpose-built mountain bike trails in the Lake District. You can hire bikes and head off on one of the bike trails (Altura, Gorse and Quercus) to reach the viewpoints with speedy descents or take part in mountain bike orienteering along a combination of forest roads and parts of the Quercus trail. There’s also horse riding through the forest, guided walks with alpacas, or you could spend a few hours on the high-ropes course at the onsite activity centre. During the summer, you can reach Whinlatter on the hourly 77/77A bus from Keswick, a wonderful route that’s also known as the Honister Rambler – one of Britain’s most scenic bus routes. Route dates and times may vary so do check the Stagecoach timetable before you travel (stagecoachbus.com). You get free admission if you arrive by bus or by bike (forestryengland.uk). St Mawes Castle, Truro, Cornwall The English Heritage St Mawes Castle is one of the most elaborately decorated and best-preserved of Henry VIII’s coastal artillery fortresses built to defend the anchorage of Carrick Roads by the Fal estuary on the south coast of Cornwall. The best way to approach the castle is by sea on the foot ferry from Falmouth, which runs almost every day of the year. The ferry departs from the Prince of Wales Pier, just a short walk from Falmouth Town railway station. After a morning at the castle, you can spend the afternoon at Gyllyngvase Beach, a wide, arching Blue Flag sandy beach from where it’s just a 10-minute walk back to the station for the journey home (english-heritage.org.uk). Scottish Seabird Centre, North Berwick, Scotland Learn about Scottish marine life – deep sea corals, kelp forests, marine mammals and the 5 million seabirds that breed around the Scottish coast each year – at this innovative interactive discovery centre. There are live cameras to zoom in on the local wildlife but if you want to get closer to the action, there are several boat trips out to the Firth of Forth, including a 1-hour cruise around the island of Craigleith and the Bass Rock, home to the world’s largest colony of northern gannets – if you’re lucky you may also spot a dolphin. The centre is a 15-minute walk from North Berwick railway station, which is about 30 minutes by train from Edinburgh Waverley (seabird.org).  Weekend first For a small fee, many UK train operators allow you to upgrade to first class at the weekend and on Bank Holidays. Prices vary depending on the operator and the length of your journey, but they all allow you access to the larger, more comfortable seats with extra legroom, plus facilities such as enhanced Wi-Fi and hot and cold drinks served at your seat in the usually quieter first-class carriages (nationalrail.co.uk). == This is an edited extract from The Green Traveller (£18.99 Pavilion Books) by Richard Hammond

Natalie Beckett reveals a series of new eco tours aimed at protecting the Mediterranean's biodiversity across a network of natural parks that are taking the lead on responsible tourism The Mediterranean, with its sparkling blue sea, sandy coves tucked among cliffs and many picturesque islands, is famed for its natural beauty. And over the past decade, certain trends and events, including the move towards greater awareness of wellbeing, the impact of the pandemic and the increased reach of social media, have propelled nature-centric trips and holidays into the mainstream. As more tourists flock to the Med, natural parks in the region have reaped the benefits, but the footfall has come at a cost. Exploitation of the Mediterranean’s most precious natural habitats has increased and this popularity is putting a strain on the Med’s biodiversity. Ironically, it is the beauty of these natural landscapes and their Instagrammable potential that has everyone visiting in the first place. Yet despite this, there are also natural parks in the region that remain undiscovered and are suffering the opposite problem, a lack of tourism. But a group of natural parks and conservation and tourism organisations are combating this by taking the reins and running their own ecotourism experiences. Operating as the MEET (Mediterranean Experience of Eco Tourism) Network and set up in 2018, the parks are empowering their local communities and supporting nature conservation efforts, while also attracting tourists. MEET was created with the belief that if the parks played a more active role in tourism, their biodiversity would be protected and any profits would drive local economic growth. Some of MEET's ecotourism experiences across the 9 protected areas of the Mediterranean Photos @MEET (authors: Christoper Willan and Richard Hammond/Green Traveller) With support from EU-funded programmes (which has identified sustainable tourism development as a priority for the region), with funding for the trips provided by DestiMED PLUS, the MEET Network created a catalogue of what they call ‘park-led’ ecotourism experiences. These multi-day ecotourism packages aim to allow visitors to re-discover Mediterranean natural parks through a new nature-focused lens, while also giving them the opportunity to connect with local people and their traditions. The footprint per tourist was measured for each trip and is expressed below in terms of Global hectares* (gha). ======= Green Traveller’s videographer Richard Hammond journeyed around the Mediterranean to experience MEET’s unique form of ecotourism first hand, filming a series of videos about the unique experiences in each location. Below are all the videos he produced, providing a taste of what travellers can expect: Asterousia Mountains Biosphere Reserve, Greece This is the stunning Asterousia Mountains Biosphere Reserve in Crete, Greece with its rocky cliffs, sandy beaches, and fascinating wildlife. From olive oil production to hiking the sacred summit of Kofinas, MEET’s multi-day experience includes a memorable hike through the Agiofarago Gorge and the chance of a refreshing swim at Agiofarago beach. >> This itinerary has an ecological footprint of around 0.025 gha* per tourist Divjakë Karavasta National Park, Albania Albania isn’t always first on the list for Western tourists, which is what makes visiting the largely untouched Divjakë Karavasta National Park such a special experience. Including boat tours and sunrise hikes, as well as beer tasting and a stonemasonary workshop, MEET’s multi-day tour here strikes a balance between adventure and relaxation. >> This itinerary has an ecological footprint of around 0.11 gha* per tourist Cres Lošinj Natura 2000 Site, Croatia In Croatia we explore the stunning Cres Lošinj Natura 2000 Site on an ecotourism tour designed to appeal to all the senses. Discover the mountainous islands of Cres and Losinj and enjoy their pristine beaches and clear blue waters which are home to the only resident populations of dolphins in the Adriatic Sea. >> This itinerary has an ecological footprint of around 0.061 gha* per tourist Porto Conte, Sardinia A walking, e-bike and sailing tour of this special part of the island. Visit the prehistoric megalithic known as Nuraghi and sail to the Cape known as the “Sleeping Giant” where inside there's the famous stalactite cave of “Neptune’s Grotto”. >> This itinerary has an ecological footprint of 0.0076 gha* per tourist per day Ventotene and Santo Stefano Nature Reserve, Italy The Pontine Islands in Italy are also known as the ‘Pearls of the Mediterranean’. MEET has worked with Ventotene and Santo Stefano Nature Reserve to carefully curate an itinerary that shows them at their best. You can expect delicious vegetarian dinners, guided tours of local historical sites and marine reserves, and charming cobbled Italian streets. >> This itinerary has an ecological footprint of 0.008 gha* per tourist per day Cabo de Gata-Níjar Natural Park, Andalusia, Spain Expect a proper escape into the wilderness on a four- or five-day tour through Andalusia’s Cabo de Gata-Níjar Natural Park. The ecotourism experience here aims to emphasise the park’s lesser-known parts and includes a hike with a local shepherd and their endangered Celtiberian goats, stargazing, and a visit to a traditional salt flat. >> This itinerary has an ecological footprint of 0.09 gha* per tourist Bouches de Bonifacio, Corsica From Bonifacio, the oldest city on Corsica, you’ll head out to the Natural Reserve where you meet local producers who will show you their land, their craft and will introduce you to local production and tradition, including a Corsican wine Tasting, permaculture garden with seasonal fruits and vegetables and edible flowers. You’ll also take a trip out by boat to go snorkelling in the clear waters of the Lavezzu Island. >> This itinerary has an ecological footprint of around 0.078 gha per tourist La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park, Spain La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park in Catalonia has become a role model for sustainable tourism across the Mediterranean region. The highlight is walking across dormant volcanoes, while learning about geology from a local guide. >> This itinerary has an ecological footprint of 0.097 gha per tourist. Protected Area of North Karpathos and Saria Island, Greece If you’re looking for a taste of local life in Greece, you’ll do no better than a visit to the North Karpathos and Saria Island Protected Area. The multi-day ecotourism experience here includes snorkelling in crystal-clear waters, guided walks around historic towns, visits to local archaeological museums and a cooking demonstration followed by live Karpathian music and dance lessons. >> This itinerary has an ecological footprint of around 0.065 gha* per tourist == This article appeared in the April/May 2024 issue of the Green Traveller magazine. *According to the Global Footprint Network, Global Hectares "are the accounting unit for the Ecological Footprint and Biocapacity accounts. These productivity weighted biologically productive hectares allow researchers to report both the biocapacity of the earth or a region and the demand on biocapacity (the Ecological Footprint)".

As part of our feature on safaris that give back, Paul Bloomfield spoke to several experts on responsible safaris in Africa and provides a round-up of six safaris that are making a positive impact on nature conservation and local communities Ol Pejeta Conservancy, Kenya “The tourism options at Ol Pejeta are very diverse, and it’s very affordable and accessible,” says Neil Birnie. “Perhaps the majority of the visitors are local Kenyans, and it generates a lot of revenue and a lot of jobs, winning prizes for tax contributions at the county level. So it’s making a real social, economic and, consequently, political contribution to Kenya.” It also combines cutting-edge wildlife conservation work, notably helping endangered rhinos, with sustainable cattle ranching. Watch our video about Ol Pejeta: A Green Traveller production for the World Travel and Tourism Council Tongole Wilderness Lodge, Malawi “This lovely little lodge has a great community aspect,” says Chris McIntyre. The eco-friendly lodge is the only luxury accommodation in the Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve, with some fabulous walking and birdlife. Through the Tongole Foundation, it has strong links with the local community, helping build schools and share knowledge about conservation to help change attitudes to poaching. Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge, Rwanda “This community-owned lodge has been immensely successful in gorilla tourism, and has generated a huge amount of money for the community,” says Birnie. “And it’s made a valuable contribution in terms of the wider gorilla tourism model.” Income from the luxurious lodge funds conservation initiatives in the Kinigi area and surrounding Volcanoes National Park. It’s also a major driver of socio-economic development in the area, with projects ranging from constructing villages for genocide survivors to creating vegetable gardens for community farming projects. Doro Nawas, Namibia “Is it a business? Yes. Is it a community project? Yes – it’s both,” says McIntyre. Like the nearby Damaraland Camp, it’s a joint venture between Wilderness and the local community – and is a good example of the growing cooperation in Namibia between the tourism industry and individual communities. Most of the staff at the eco-friendly lodge come from the surrounding villages, having been trained to fill various positions here, and the conservancy and its people benefit from the revenue generated. Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge, Zimbabwe “Clive Stockil, who set up this lodge in Gonarezhou National Park, has won more environmental sustainability awards than I’ve had hot dinners,” says McIntyre. The lodge has an intimate working relationship with the local Shangaan community. At its core is the concept of ‘Community Led Conservation’ in Zimbabwe’s secondlargest national park, renowned for its elephant population and a great place for walking safaris. Cottar’s 1920s Camp, Kenya “This centuries-old Masai Mara camp in the Olderkesi Conservancy is a shining example of sustainable luxury travel,” says Juliet Kinsman, author of The Green Edit: Travel (Ebury Publishing, September 2020). “Its commitment to a holistic balance of the Long Run’s 4C framework, and consideration of conservation, community, culture and commerce as a means to contribute meaningfully to the biodiversity and the people of the local region, sets a benchmark.” == This article appeared in the August/September 2023 issue of the Green Traveller magazine.

As part of our feature on Walking the world, responsibly, Sarah Baxter picks out trekking companies to consider for your next trip Climbing Kilimanjaro Trekking specialist Adventure Alternative doesn’t just employ people on the ground to run its trips, it has set up local companies that operate as sustainable, independent entities. Workers get the same rights as they’d get in the UK; money stays in the country; and profits are ploughed back into training. On its Kilimanjaro climbs, trekkers are encouraged to engage with the local crew. “I encourage my guides to have deeper conversations with guests; they have the green light to bring up big subjects such as water equity on the mountain,” says Bate. Hiking into the Himalaya Village Ways runs village-to-village walks in spectacular, little-visited corners of the Himalayas that ensure communities directly benefit. They’re pictured throughout this feature, and include Binsar, Kathdhara and Gonap in the Indian Himalayas. “It begins with selecting places with the potential for low-impact tourism,” says managing director Manisha Pande. “We then involve host communities from the start, making them partners in the project and ensuring benefits are spread throughout the community.” This increase in local pride has translated into environmental positives: for example, in the Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary, sightings of rare birds and mammals are on the rise. Walking Wild in Colombia Adventure travel specialist Much Better Adventures (MBA) admits there’s a problem with tourism – “We will never say ‘this is a sustainable holiday’,” says Megan Devenish, head of product expansion and sustainability, “All we can say is that this trip is taking steps towards being sustainable.” MBA only works with 100% locally-owned ground-handlers, specifically seeking out those that go the extra mile to benefit local communities. For example, its Lost City trek in Colombia is guided by members of one of the last remaining tribes in the region, and its one-of-a-kind jungle trek-and-raft trip is led by locals that have turned an area previously wracked by civil war into a conservation success. Perambulating in Peru Intrepid, which runs a huge variety of trips across the globe, including treks, is a certified B Corporation. This means everything the company does has been externally assessed and verified, and is a helpful steer for trekkers when they’re deciding which company to travel with – especially on routes that are not regulated. Such is the case in Peru, when it comes to looking beyond the classic Inca Trail. Intrepid runs an Inca Quarry Trail that offers spectacular scenery and lesser-known archaeological sites without the crowds, while Amazonas Explorer, also a B Corporation, takes trekkers on alternative Inca routes, such as its newly created Waqrapukara Trek above the Apurimac Canyon. Ambling across Andros The network of trails on the rugged Greek island of Andros is one of the few to have been awarded Leading Quality Trails status by the European Ramblers Association. Hikers visiting Andros don’t only help extend the island’s holiday season beyond the typical July/August window, they help to maintain the island’s heritage: the trails here have been used for millennia but, due to recent depopulation and lifestyle changes, are at risk of being lost forever. “Trekkers coming, transmitting that there is something of value here, generates pride and positivity,” says the founder of Andros Routes, Olga Karayiannis. “By walking you’re keeping the history alive.” == This article appeared in the October/November 2023 issue of the Green Traveller magazine.

Tackling a meaty trek is a wonderful way to explore, but how do you make sure you’re giving back as much as you’re getting from the experience? Sarah Baxter shares her essential insight (see also Sarah's feature on responsible trekking companies to consider for your next trip) Trekking can be the most rewarding way to travel: slow-paced, big-spaced, away from the crowds, immersed in the great outdoors. And it is, by its nature, a more sustainable way to explore. You’re travelling under your own steam, often in small groups, usually in remoter regions. But how can you ensure your footsteps have the lightest impact on the environment and the most positive effect on local people? The key is to do your research. Know who you are travelling with and what that company’s principles are, which means asking your tour operator proper questions. “Don’t just ask: are you sustainable? That’s too easy to just have the answer be ‘yes’,” says Christina Beckman, senior director of strategy and impact with the Adventure Travel Trade Association. “Ask: how are you a sustainable company? Have you invested in sustainability? How will locals benefit from this tour I’m considering?” Ask how staff are treated. Are porters and guides paid fairly? Is information on climate change and environmental protection part of their training? How does the company invest in their future? Ask what size your group will be. Large groups can overwhelm local communities. “Tourism needs to be small and empathetic,” says Gavin Bate from trekking specialists Adventure Alternative. “We try to not be part of the problem by not sending too many people to the same place.” Don’t just rely on the company itself for answers. Seek testimonials from past clients too Don’t be embarrassed to get into the details. Ask: Will I be given loads of plastic bottles? Is food sourced locally? Do you use biodegradable waste bags? Solarpowered lamps? Local transport? Don’t just rely on the company itself for answers. Seek testimonials from past clients – a good operator will be happy to share that information. Research whether the company is a member of a carbon offset scheme or organisation such as 1% for the Planet (contributing at least 1% of annual sales to environmental causes). Has the company been evaluated by third parties such as the Rainforest Alliance? Is it a B Corporation? “It’s pretty easy for companies to fake their sustainability credentials through their own marketing channels, so travellers need to dig beneath that,” says Gary Cohen, Intrepid Travel’s managing director for Latin America. “Consider whether operators have any reliable external certification, which is far more objective.” A good way to lessen your impact is not to trek where everyone else is – to hike away from tourist honeypots and into areas where tourism can still bring considerable benefits. “The world is waking up to overtourism – look at those images of heaving trails on Everest and Snowdon,” says Megan Devenish, head of product expansion and sustainability at Much Better Adventures. “Instead, go off the beaten track as much as possible. Think about the experience; break the bucket list mentality.” Of course, trekkers will always be drawn to high profile routes such as Kilimanjaro and Everest Base Camp. And there are some positives to come from popularity. “In the 1980s the numbers climbing Kilimanjaro were far lower but those people made more mess. Now Kili sees around 40,000 trekkers a year but the mountain is pretty clean,” says Bate. But if you choose to tick off a headline trek, you still need to quiz your tour operator. “Going to Kilimanjaro? Ask about the company your operator works with in Tanzania – what is their relationship to them? Do they pay their staff well? Do staff get proper rest between trips? Ensure you’re going on a holiday that gives people economic dignity,” adds Bate. And compare prices. Paul Cripps is the founder of Cusco-based Amazonas Explorer, which takes people on adventures around the Sacred Valley and beyond – including the Inca Trail. “In Peru you get what you pay for,” he says. “If it’s cheap, you need to be asking questions.” There are things you can do on a practical level, too. For instance, ensure your toiletries are biodegradable and don’t contain chemicals that will leach into the soil. Consider your use of trekking poles – they can be beneficial for your knees but damaging to the soil and vegetation. If you take them, use them only when needed, be mindful of where you plant them and consider fitting rubber tips to the metal ends. Don’t litter – carry out rubbish you create and pick up other people’s rubbish too, if possible. And talk about litter, to keep the issue on the agenda. That means asking trek operators, hoteliers and restaurant owners what happens with waste, what their policies are on single-use items, and whether they have recycling facilities. Learn about where you’re going to. Talk to the people – learn some language and don’t be afraid to try using it Take responsibility for your water consumption too. Ask your trekking company how they provide water to clients. And research how you can treat your own water – bring your own filtration bottle or purification system. At the end of your trek, consider donating any excess outdoor clothing or kit directly to your porters. Perhaps most important is not to just trek though a place, but to interact and engage with it. Learn about where you’re going. Talk to the people – learn some language and don’t be afraid to try using it. Spend money on local crafts and at small, local-run businesses. “One of my biggest peeves is seeing travellers treating locals poorly either in outright lack of respect or taking advantage of the beauty of their locations or cultures without any giving back,” says Beckman. “Travel is a privilege, and people should learn while they are doing it,” says Cripps. “It’s all part of an environmental lesson. We show people places in order to help protect them; the aim is to create advocates for the planet.” == This article appeared in the October/November 2023 issue of the Green Traveller magazine.

Travel writer Paul Bloomfield explores how we can choose African safaris that support both nature preservation and local communities (see also Six of the best conservation and community safaris) A leopard lounges on a branch, sheltering from the midday heat. A giraffe plucks leaves from a thorny acacia with its long, black, curiously prehensile tongue. An elephant snorts up water in its trunk from a muddy pool before hosing it into its mouth. Heart-stopping moments like these make an African safari unforgettable – and, for many of us, a once-in-a-lifetime experience. After all, such holidays come at a cost – not just to your bank balance but also to the environment: for most travellers, reaching Africa involves flying, and while airlines continue to use fossil fuels to power their aircraft, there are significant carbon emissions involved in such journeys. Safaris themselves also place demands on the local environment, natural resources, and people. However, wildlife conservation on the continent is heavily dependent on tourism, which largely caters to overseas visitors – if tourists stop flying to Africa, the situation for much of its wildlife is likely to deteriorate. “Most state-run national parks and protected areas receive only about 30% of their total budgets from governments, and rely on tourism to fund the balance,” says Colin Bell, co-founder of Natural Selection Safaris. “Private game reserves, in contrast, rely completely on tourism revenues to cover their management costs.” Safaris also provide important support for communities. “In many southern Africa lodges, the community that leases their lands to the safari company earns a base annual rental plus a percentage of turnover that can be anywhere from 4% to 10% of gross revenues (not profits) of the lodge,” adds Bell. “Under these revenue-sharing models, communities always earn money for leasing their wildlife lands regardless of occupancies, even in the worst years.” “Many countries are moving away from mass tourism towards a lower density, higher revenue safari tourism model which results in far less impact on the environment and is ultimately more sustainable,” he continues. “The job ratio in higher-end safari lodges in most parts of Africa now often results in one guest supporting anywhere from two to five jobs in a lodge – and a staff member in a rural area has between 10 and 15 dependents, so the tourism reach into communities can be significant.” Safari operators are increasingly making claims about their social and environmental credentials, so how can you tell the green from the greenwash? The devil is in the detail. Who owns the safari operator – local communities, an individual or private company in the country you’re visiting, or a large international business? Fortunately, operators offering the most memorable safari experiences and accommodation also tend to be those with a strong conservation and community ethos. “Those with the good ethics are typically also the ones clients really like,” observes Chris McIntyre, managing director of specialist tour operator Expert Africa. It’s worth knowing whether local communities have any equity or revenue share in the business – if so, that should ensure not just benefits for that community, but may also enhance their investment in conservation of the wildlife in their region, the long-term viability of the safari business, its lasting commitment to conservation, and the visitor experience. “If it’s a longer agreement, very often the property management has a greater platform to invest in people, to invest in the quality of their product, to invest in marketing, to make a better business, to train local people, and to make it a much more meaningful operation,” says Neil Birnie, from Conservation Capital, which facilitates the financing of natural capital projects throughout Africa. “A lodge that supports a small area of high biodiversity importance is playing a hugely valuable role”. If possible, find out how the reserve, park, or conservancy you’re visiting operates – their funding, and how the managing organisation assists communities and conservation. “Private conservation areas with landowners who pay levies, or privately managed areas that are well funded through international philanthropy, have a more sustainable funding base than many national parks and other government or community-owned areas that are often largely or even entirely dependent on tourism to fund conservation efforts,” says Andrew Parker, co-founder of Conserve and former director of Conservation Development at African Parks. Often, rates listed by accommodation providers specify payments to local communities and conservation levies. But what other contributions to communities does the operator make? Just as important as cash income is the provision of jobs backed by skills transfer and mentorship, especially for more senior roles. What proportion of employees come from local communities? This often increases over the length of a concession, as more people are trained up and become skilled. “It’s unlikely that a senior guide or top chef will come from the local area initially,” comments Birnie, “but most of the wider staff could – and, with training, they could rise through the ranks. So if there’s a long term agreement, by year 10 or 15 perhaps 90% or more of the staff might be drawn from the local area.” Where some fall down is on the quality of accommodation provided to staff, many of whom may be recruited from the local community. “An often overlooked issue is how staff are looked after,” says Parker. “Guests should ask to see back-of-house facilities to hold the operator accountable.” Other questions might be: does the safari operator use local companies for the procurement of goods and services such as food products and cleaning? Are they also involved in conservation or research work – for example, anti-poaching patrols or scientific projects? And are these very local, or larger in scope? “Scale is an important issue,” says Parker. “There are huge economies of scale in conservation, and conservation works better in terms of contributing to functioning ecosystems at scale. Hence a lodge that supports efforts over a larger area is playing a more important role than a lodge that benefits a smaller area. That said, a lodge that supports a small area of high biodiversity importance is playing a hugely valuable role.” Consider off-season travel, where this can help sustain communities and offer a completely different perspective Even small local projects can have a significant impact. “The direct contribution of camps and lodges might be relatively minimal,” adds Birnie, “but they have the capacity to act as an engine inspiring guests to support conservation or support local community development initiatives, which in turn foster greater support by local people for conservation.” You can also make a difference with the choices you make before booking and during your trip. Consider visiting less well known countries to distribute revenue more widely – Angola, Mozambique or Zimbabwe, perhaps. “In countries where conservation as a land use is under pressure, foreign exchange earnings from tourism confer significant political collateral,” says Parker. “Booking with one of the bigger operators that has a facility in a less-known area is probably the best approach, as the financial flows will be guarded by the prevailing concession agreement.” Consider off-season travel, where this can help sustain communities and offer a completely different perspective on an area that even experienced safari enthusiasts may find rewarding – the rainy ‘emerald season’ (November to May) in Zambia is an increasingly popular option, for example, with lower rates, lush vegetation and rich birdlife. Think about visiting community conservancies or private reserves as alternatives to the more popular national parks. The conservancies around Kenya’s Masai Mara offer exclusive experiences and fine wildlife sightings, as well as contributing to communities and conservation. Finally, consider the impact you want your holiday to have on you and the destination. “A key idea is for people to approach travel as an opportunity to effect meaningful change rather than to simply indulge,” says Parker. “Transformational travel is the new buzzword – people want to be changed by their experience, and also to leave the world a better place because of their interaction with it.” == This article appeared in the August/September 2023 issue of the Green Traveller magazine.

Tapping into community-run ventures and social enterprises is a great way to get into the heart and soul of a place while giving back to the places you love to visit. Some of these hubs are run as non-profits, others are run by passionate local people and volunteers and wouldn’t exist without their commitment. Here are five brilliant community run enterprises in the UK: 1 THE VILLAGE SHOP In the historic Somerset village of Mells, the shop and post office is run by a team of about 50 volunteers, rotating shifts, job- sharing, fundraising and caring for the window displays and plants. It supports a wide range of local producers, including cold meats from Thorner’s of Somerset and home-baked cakes from Frome Country Market. The community also raised funds to build a café next door to the shop, which was opened by Mary Berry and serves hearty breakfasts, home-cooked lunches and teas seven days a week. mellsvillage.co.uk 2 THE PUB The Pack Horse Inn is a 17th century pub in the village of South Stoke on the outskirts of Bath, and was given a makeover when it was bought by the local community in 2016. The interior has a wonderful olde English charm with inglenooks and ancient beams, while outside there’s a lovely beer garden from where you can feast on locally inspired dishes and sup cider and local ale looking out over the glorious Midford Valley. packhorsebath.co.uk PUB IS THE HUB Inspired by Prince Charles in 2001, Pub is the Hub is a not-for-profit organisation that works to strengthen the connection between pubs and their local communities. There are over 150 across the UK, including many that have diversified into other retail outlets, such as delis, bakeries, farm shops, and village stores. To find one near you, search pubisthehub.org.uk 3 THE RESTAURANT Brigade Bar + Bistro is in a beautiful old Victorian fire station near London Bridge Station, serving brunch, lunch and dinner. It’s run by a social enterprise, Beyond Food, that helps homeless people get into work by giving them work experience in the kitchens and training them to become chefs. thebrigade.co.uk 4 THE ARTS CENTRE Dartington Trust is an arts, ecology and social justice charity, which runs a social-enterprise hub for retreats, festivals and summer schools as well as a visitor centre on a 1,200-acre estate near Totnes in South Devon. There’s a campsite, hostel- style rooms and a fisherman’s cabin next to the River Dart. Explore the glorious gardens and deer park trails and dine on local food in the medieval Great Hall. dartington.org 5 THE HERITAGE CENTRE Maidenhead Heritage Centre is run mainly by volunteers to showcase the history of the town, particularly the operations of the Air Transport Auxiliary, whose headquarters was at White Waltham Airfield during the Second World War. The star attraction is the Spitfire Simulator Experience, where you can sit in the pilot’s seat of a Spitfire rigged up to a wide-screen electronic simulator and get a taste of the thrill of flying these awesome machines. maidenheadheritage.org.uk This article also appeared in the February/March 2024 issue of the Green Traveller magazine.

Richard Hammond introduces The Long Run, a global alliance of nature-based tourism businesses that’s had a recent flurry of new members. These pioneering holidays are based on a holistic balance of conservation, community, culture, and commerce, protecting important biodiverse habitats while building local livelihoods. When The Long Run says it collectively conserves 23 million acres of land and its biodiversity, it can be hard to grapple with just how large a space that is. Picture the size of Portugal and you’re pretty much there – it’s a lot. A global alliance of nature-based tourism businesses, The Long Run was founded in 2009 by Jochen Zeitz (who’s also founder of the ZEITZ Foundation for Intercultural Ecosphere Safety), when it was profiling nine destinations chosen for their commitment and unique approach to sustainability. Watch this video introducing The Long Run: Video produced by Green Traveller productions The collaboration of these nine destinations provided the basis on which The Long Run developed its approach and strategy — “protecting wilderness in perpetuity” via the 4Cs, a holistic balance of conservation, community, culture, and commerce. The initiative has evolved to become one of the world’s largest nature- based business initiatives and now has over 60 members worldwide. “Bringing like-minded people together and leveraging connectivity between them to accelerate change makes The Long Run a very powerful community” Dr Anne-Kathrin Zschiegner, executive director at The Long Run. “Because then you’re sharing best practice and inspiring one another; what somebody did in Costa Rica can be replicated in New Zealand, can be replicated in Kenya; in a different way, but ideas and sparks come from talking with others. The Long Run has a lot of diversity of approaches, locations, business models – and that diversity really helps create change and drive innovation.” Accommodations, lodges, and privately protected areas join The Long Run as Fellow Members (recently joined members include Castle Leslie in Ireland and Sirikoi Lodge in the Lewa Conservancy, Kenya) and work towards becoming a ‘Global Ecosphere Retreat’ (GER), a standard for best practice that involves a rigorous, onsite, external assessment recognised by the Global Sustainable Tourism Council. Spot this accreditation and it's a marker of excellence. The GER standard looks for evidence that the business goes beyond merely mitigating its negative environmental impacts and actively works to positively impact the well- being of the planet and the local people. Members must be commercially profitable or commit to attaining commercial viability, “demonstrating that conserving nature is an economic imperative beyond the ethical arguments of posterity”. While many of The Long Run members serve the luxury travel market, the organisation is looking to widen its portfolio of businesses to cater for all budgets. “It’s a very accessible model,” explains Holly Tuppen, head of communications at The Long Run. “Anyone can apply the 4Cs to their business, whether a community-owned wildlife reserve or a 20,000-acre conservancy involving multiple stakeholders.” For more information: thelongrun.org The Crème de la Crème Book a stay at one of The Long Run’s 10 Global Ecosphere Retreats and know you’re supporting nature conservation and local livelihoods: BORANA LODGE, KENYA One of East Africa’s original fully hosted, family-owned lodges, the lodge is within the 32,000-acre Borana conservation area at the foot of Mount Kenya, home to black and white rhino and many other endangered species. Guests are encouraged to get involved in conservation initiatives tracking rhino with the scouts on foot, monitoring lion movements, and engaging in local community projects. All retained earnings generated by Borana Lodge and other ranching enterprises are re-invested into the sustainable conservation of natural capital and the wildlife it supports, along with building local livelihoods. SASAAB, SAMBURU, KENYA Close to the Buffalo Springs National Reserve in Kenya’s Northern Frontier District, Sasaab is a joint venture between The Safari Collection, Westgate Community Conservancy and The Northern Rangelands Trust. With far-reaching views across the Laikipia Plateau towards Mount Kenya, the reserve is home to the ‘Samburu Special Five’– beisa oryx, reticulated giraffe, Grevy’s zebra, gerenuk antelope and Somali ostrich. The local Samburu community plays an active role in the conservation of endangered species while also benefiting from Sasaab-supported health and education projects (that improve the lives of over 600 families). GROOTBOS NATURE RESERVE, SOUTH AFRICA In one of the world’s biodiversity hotspots, amid mountains and ancient indigenous forest, Grootbos – together with the Grootbos Foundation – protects 790 plant species, many of which are found nowhere else on Earth. Its five-star eco-lodges and exclusive use, private villas provide an immersive luxury experience among the fynbos and offer expansive views over the rich marine haven of Walker Bay. Recently, Grootbos has undergone an external audit that found that Grootbos sequesters more carbon than it emits. COTTAR’S 1920’S SAFARI CAMP, KENYA On its own 6,000-acre private conservancy in south-east Mara, guests are well placed to experience the great wildebeest migration from July to October. The area is home to the remaining 7% of woodlands that support several species that are under threat, including Impala, buffalo, and giraffe, and it is also home to a large proportion of the Mara’s rhino population. Since establishing the Cottars’ Wildlife Conservation Trust (CWCT) in 1996, the camp has persuaded local communities that it is more financially viable to protect wildlife than damage it. The CWCT is now advocating for the establishment of a new Olderikesi Conservancy, which would be managed by CWCT on behalf of the community and help conserve 6,600 acres of acacia and cedar forests, natural springs, grasslands, and salt pans. NIKOI ISLAND, INDONESIA A 37-acre private island resort, two and a half hours by boat from Singapore, Nikoi’s co-founder Andrew Dixon set about to conserve as much of this nature- abundant enclave of rainforest, beaches and coral reefs as possible while creating a community-friendly resort. The 15 villas were constructed from sustainably sourced driftwood and alang alang grass roofing; a nod to both traditional Indonesian architecture and modern design. Designed to maximise air flow, there is no air- conditioning (or fridges) in the villas, and solar panels provide the hot water. Catering to a maximum of 50 guests at any one time, Nikoi bills itself as “a paradise island where the environment is king”. CAIMAN, PANTANAL, BRAZIL Founded 35 years ago by a nature-loving conservationist, Caiman is named after one of the many species found within its 53,000-hectares — the caiman Yacaré — and is also home to jaguars, blue-fronted parrots, hyacinth macaws, giant anteaters and howler monkeys. Caiman uses income from ecotourism to fund conservation efforts, while simultaneously preserving traditional ranching methods. The refuge is also the base for pioneer conservation initiatives such as Onçafari, Hyacinth Macaw Institute and Blue Fronted Parrot. TAHI, NORTH ISLAND, NEW ZEALAND Maori for ‘first place of plenty’, Ohuatahi in New Zealand’s North Island is home to the secluded sanctuary of Tahi: 800 acres of golden sands and South Pacific surf meet estuaries, wetlands and native forest. As the result of an extensive wetland restoration, indigenous planting and pest control programme, Tahi is a model for commercially-minded conservation. The owners adhere to sustainable principles in everything they do; luxury hospitality is integrated with a profound respect for natural surroundings. Over 11 years, 280,000 indigenous trees have been planted and 14 wetlands have been restored. As a testament to their success, birds have returned to Tahi, having vanished after years of neglect as a run-down cattle farm. The sanctuary is now home to over 65 species of native birds, including the endangered Australian brown bittern. The reawakening of Tahi is as much about the local Maori community as it is about the land. Priority is given to neighbouring residents when it comes to procurement and employment and the sanctuary carries out several Maori education initiatives. WOLWEDANS, NAMIBRAND NATURE RESERVE, NAMIBIA A portfolio of luxury camps within one of Southern Africa’s largest private reserves – over 400,000 acres of the otherworldly landscape of the NamibRand Nature Reserve in southwestern Namibia. As the principal concessionaire, Wolwedans has contributed more than $1.5 million towards the conservation of NamibRand Nature Reserve. Namibian culture is also at the heart of the business – the Wolwedans Foundation supports the social uplift of local communities through vocational training at the Desert Academy and the Namibian Institute of Culinary Education. The camps have been designed using low-impact building techniques and sustainable technologies; the environment can fully restore itself within just a few months of a camp’s deconstruction. A ‘sustainability tour’ educates guests about the onsite organic garden, grey-water system, solar farm and organic waste management. SEGERA RANCH AND RETREAT, KENYA Established by The Long Run’s founder Jochen Zeitz in 2005, Segera’s 50,000 acres of African wilderness, “proves that luxury can be sustainable”. It’s here that the Zeitz Foundation, The Long Run and the 4C’s were pioneered. What was previously overgrazed land, struggling to support the surrounding communities and wildlife, is now thriving; Segera has been a catalyst for positive change. These days elephant, lion, buffalo and eland, as well as the endangered Grevy’s zebra, patas monkey and African wild dog, roam freely. Alongside establishing a Conservation Unit Programme with the Laikipia Wildlife Forum to train rangers in conservation issues, Segera runs a 20-acre agriculture plot at one of the local primary schools – to demonstrate best practice in sustainable farming and provide a valuable food resource. Citizen Science is also utilised at the ranch, with programmes like the Resource Use Assessments to empower local elders to take control of the issues that concern them, rather than relying on external experts. SINAL DO VALE, SANTO ANTONIO, BRAZIL A retreat and education centre nestled in Brazil’s lush Atlantic Rainforest (Mata Atlantica), 50km from Rio de Janeiro. Founded in 2012 by Thais Corral, a renowned social innovator, Sinal’s purpose has been to be a catalyst for tangible social and environmental change. Surrounded by one of the world’s most diverse and threatened biomes, six stucco houses and event spaces facilitate creativity, sustainable development and getting in touch with nature. Its Living Laboratory provides a platform for sustainable experimentation, providing solutions for waste management, water quality and infrastructure. The organic gardens and bio-construction projects help Sinal to explore and develop ecological food systems and eco-building techniques – both of which are passed on to the local and international community. == This article appeared in the February/March 2024 issue of the Green Traveller magazine.

by Ginny Light Over ten days in winter, we travelled from Bilbao along the spectacular coastline of northern Spain to the historic city of Santiago de Compostela, passing through the spectacular mountains of the Picos de Europa. The highlight of our trip was staying at Posada del Valle in the foothills of the Picos de Europa. It’s a family run hotel in 18 acres of organic orchards, pasture and a vegetable garden that supply the restaurant with much of its produce. We were treated to homemade apple juice and bread for breakfast, while in the evening the daily changing set menu included a soup, salad, main course, dessert or cheese, much of it picked just hours before it was served. Food is often a product of geography and history, and no more so than in Green Spain where the local fare goes far beyond the typical seaside menu – there are many familiar items such as tortilla, paella and squid but also products of the terroir, such as beef, cheese and beans. One of our favourite places was Casa Vergara 1948, a pintxos bar (small snacks held together with toothpicks) in San Sebastian’s old town, which specialises in cod, including cod cheeks and bacalao, but there were also the pintxos classics, such as tortilla and jamon Iberico. The vibe, especially on Friday and Saturday nights, is buzzy and the staff, in fashionable white shirts and black aprons, are ebullient and efficient, pouring local cider and wine from a height while diners choose from the buffet along the bar. The joy of pintxos here is that everyone eats together – old, young, tourists and locals.Gastronomy is a big draw for Green Spain, but so too is the huge variety of activities and attractions in a relatively compact area, especially given the proximity of the mountains to the coastline and the region’s avante garde cities such as Bilbao and San Sebastián. One of the most dramatic we saw was Eduardo Chillida’s three steel sculptures mounted on rocks at the western end of Ondarreta beach in San Sebastián. The situation was chosen by Basque architect Luis Peña Ganchegui to be within the tidal ranges so the sculptures look very different when viewed at high or low tide. For more information, see Green Traveller’s Guide to Green Spain This article also appeared in the February/March 2024 issue of our Green Traveller magazine.

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Nouvelle-Aquitaine , here's our pick of outdoor activities across this beautiful part of southwest France. Photos left to right: Family boating in Marais Poitevin, known as 'Green Venice': Mathieu Anglada @CRTNA; Traffic-free cycling on the Vélodyssée: Alban Gilbert @CRTNA; Land art at Lac de Vassivière. Photo: Perinaud @CRTNA; Cycling in Bordeaux: Vincent Bengold/Bordeaux Tourism; Surfing: Federation Francaise de Surf/JUSTES @CRTNA; Canoeing on the Dordogne. Photo: Akim Benbrahim/Sarlat Tourism; Hiking the GR Bordeaux Métropole: Richard Hammond; Wine tasting at The Union de Producteurs de Saint-Émilion: Richard Hammond; Cycling along the Flow Velo: Nicola Forsyth Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Nouvelle-Aquitaine :  Green = Places to stay   Blue = Food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Guided bike tour of Bordeaux Graceful and beguiling, Bordeaux is a city relishing its joie de vivre – years after the restoration of its centre restored the original golden hues of its buildings, residents and visitors alike are exploring its UNESCO-protected historic centre and sipping coffees in its numerous cafés. With first-rate museums and galleries, splendid architecture and a wealth of restaurants, squares, and shops, Bordeaux is a pint-sized rival to Paris: but with its own distinct charms and without the capital’s tourist hordes. Cycling is a great way to get around the city. There are over 1,100km of cycle paths across the entire Metropole so there are plenty of options whether you want to go for a few hours, a full day, or longer. Bordeaux Tourism recommends the Roger Lapébie cycle path which follows an old railway line away from the city towards Créon or La Sauve, home of the magnificent Abbey of La Sauve-Majeure. There are also several parks on the outskirts of Bordeaux worth visiting, including Hermitage in Lormont, the Majolan in Blanquefort, and the ecological reserve of the Barails, to the north. For advice on the best cycle routes both within the city and on its outskirts, Esprit Cycles  has been renting (as well as selling) bikes in the city centre since 2009 and has a range of bikes for all ages and abilities, including electric bikes. Bordeaux Bike Experience  runs several tours of the city: its 'Essentials' trip last for a few hours and is billed as a 'gentle', covering about 15km along the quays to see some of the city's latest innovations "without straying too far from the architectural and historical treasures of the city centre", including the city's spectacular neoclassical architecture; it's 'Big Ride' is a full day's outing covering 25km that goes to the old part of the city as well as out into the countryside to some of the vineyards at the edge of Bordeaux. It also includes a 'pause gourmande' lunch stop at a typical local brasserie for you to sample classic Bordeaux gastronomy. It also offers private tours for those wanting to do something different, such as a night tour, include a wine tasting, ride by the sea, etc. GR Bordeaux Métropole” hiking trail The first urban Grande Randonnée (GR), or long-distance hiking trail, in France, the route winds through seventeen of the territory's 28 municipalities along its 160km length. Peppered along its path are 11 idiosyncratic suburban shelters where you can pre-book, for free, to stay overnight. Simple walking itineraries konwn as 'Super balades" have been devised for a range of options, from those wishing to go for just a 40 minute stroll to a full day's walking. See below for the map of these routes. bordeaux-metropole.fr A stretch of the GR Bordeaux Métropole” hiking trail that Green Traveller's Richard Hammond and Nicola Forsyth walked with local guide Dominique Busnel in the summer of 2024. Top right is 'The Cloud', one of the suburban shelters that you can book to stay overnight on the trail. Photos: Richard Hammond Wine-tasting at Union de Producteurs de Saint-Émilion Think you know Saint Emilion Merlot? A tasting at The Union de Producteurs de Saint-Émilion will put your knowledge to the test. With over 80 years of experience, representing more than 12% of the entire Saint-Émilion AOC, the Union supports 145 winegrowers across 600 hectares of vines. It is a sustainable cooperative known largely, like so many local producers, for its Merlot; its wines can be tasted by the glass at its HQ in Saint-Émilion (a short walk from the railway station) where over 50 châteaux and various branded wines are on sale, or straight from the co-operative’s wine truck at local producers’ and farmers’ markets. udpse.com Hiking along the Chemin d'Amadour, Dordogne Valley Join this historic long-distance pilgrimage route that runs from Soulac-sur-mer on the Atlantic Coast inland to Rocamadour, through some of the most beautiful landscapes in southwest France (such as the Gironde estuary, the Entre-deux-Mers, the Dropt valley, the Dordogne valley, and the Causses du Quercy) and via several spectacular examples of built heritage (such as those in Bordeaux, Duras, and Bergerac, the numerous châteaux of the Dordogne valley, and the medieval cities of Domme, Sarlat, and Rocamadour). The entire length runs for 500 kilometres and includes 21 stages. Listed by UNESCO as part of the Camino de Santiago heritage, it is named after the legend of Amadour who, in the 1AD landed on the coast of Medoc and founded the first church that became Notre-Dame-de-la-fin-des-Terres in Soulac-sur-Mer. Green Traveller's Richard Hammond and Nicola Forsyth walked part of this trail in the summer of 2024, taking the train from Bordeaux to Le Buisson-de-Cadouin where we walked a six-kilometre section of the Chemin d’Amadour to the spectacular World Heritage Site of the 1,000 year-old Abbey of Cadouin. chemin-amadour.fr The 1,000 year-old Abbey of Cadouin (left and centre) and Cloitre de Cadouin (right). Photos: Richard Hammond Breathe in, Breathe out, Pedal... on the Flow Vélo A new 400km cycle route that runs from Sarlat-la-Canéda in The Dordogne Valley to the island of Aix in Charente-Maritime, passing through the Perigord Limousin Regional National Park and Angouleme, along the Charente River, and through the towns of Cognac, Saintes and Rochefort that are designed as 'Art and History' stops along the way. There's a handy website laflowvelo.com , which lists a range of accommodation along all stages of the route, including campsites, gites, and hotels, flagging up those that are recognised as 'Accueil Vélo' offering specific services for cyclists. It also provides information on bike rental and repair shops, as well as over 30 recommended places to visit should you wish to stop off en route, such as the National Maritime Museum and Treetop Adventure Park in Rochefort, Penloy Castle Park in Port d'Envaux, The Walnut Grove of Borderies in Louzac-Saint-Andre, and the Abbaye aux Dames de Saintes. Canoeing along the Dordogne River It's no surprise that thousands flock to the Dordogne River each year to go canoeing and kayaking. With calm, crystal-clear waters often enclosed by towering limestone cliffs, an abundance of wildlife on the riverbanks, and a wealth of historic castles, medieval fortresses, and villages dotted along its 130-mile course, it has something for everyone. Declared a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve for its outstanding setting and heritage, there are numerous operators that operate along the river, hiring out the canoes and providing shuttle services to either drive you upstream in a minibus so that you paddle back down the river, or if you set off from the hire centre, they'll pick up at a selected location downstream. Most off half-day excursions (typically 14km) or full days (anywhere between 14km and 28km, depending on your level of fitness and experience. You can also opt for multi-day itineraries, typically 2–5 days, where you stop off en route to stay in campsites. visit-dordogne-valley.co.uk Surfing in Biarritz Surfing came to Biarritz (and France) in the 1950s and over the decades it has evolved into a sophisticated year-round sport here on the Atlantic Coast. There are five main places to go surfing: Mirama, which is popular with bodyboarders; the Basque Coast, whose easy waves are great for beginners; Marbella, a favourite with the locals; and Milady, great for experienced surfers at mid-tide. There are about 20 surf schools, such as Biarritz Surf Ocean and Biarritz Association Surf Club that can provide lessons and equipment individually or for groups, for all levels of experience. For a full list of all the schools, including prices, see destination-biarritz.fr Discover Lac de Vassivière, Limoges A whopping 1,000 hectares of water high up in the mountains of Limousin, Lac de Vassivière is one of the largest artificial lakes in France and an adventure playground for all the family. Beaumont-du-Lac is the focal point but the entire lake attracts tourists all year round. There are trails fo rhiker and mountain bikers through the forests around the lake, a variety of watersports on the lake, and free boat water taxis between the centres at Auphelle, l’Ile de Vassivière, Masgrangeas and Broussas, and for those looking for a more sedate break, there are mini cruises across the lake. Don't miss crossing over the footbridge to the island where there's a sculpture park at the Centre International d'Art et du Paysage. Kids will love Terra Adventure's geocaching treasure hunts and the Vertige Accro (Adventure park) in a forest by the edge of the lake. More information : www.vassiviere.com Surfing in Les Landes, Atlantic Coast South of Bordeaux, The Landes is a huge expanse of land in the heart of Gascony (it's the second largest department in France) with over 100 kilometres of coastline (including 15 seaside resorts) bordered by a dune ridge all the way from the mouth of the Adour river in the south up to Biscarrosse, just south of the Bay of Arcachon. The forest that covers nearly 60% of the area is Europe's largest pine forest, and there is also a series of vast freshwater lakes, as well as marshes and wetlands that are an important wintering ground for migratory birds. The extensive coastline attracts surfers of all abilities; surfing hotspots such as La Gravière in Hossegor, Les Estagnots in Seignosse, La Piste, Santocha in Capbreton, draw the best surfers in the world but there are many more in between, such as Labenne, Soustons, and Moliets that depending on the conditions, can be as attractive for novices. The website guide-des-landes.com lists a range of surf schools at all the major surfing sites in Les Landes. See also: landes-holidays.com Cycling on the Vélodyssée, Atlanic Coast Launched in 2012 as part of the Atlantic Coast Route - EuroVelo 1 , La Vélodyssée is a 1,300km marked cycle route down the Atlantic west coast of France, running all the way from Roscoff in Brittany to the border town of Hendaye. For those that like their cycling free of cars, over three quarters of the route is on traffic-free paths. The section of the route in Nouvelle-Aquitaine starts from La Rochelle and travels via 17 stages, such as Rochefort, Hourtin-Plage, Arcachon, Capbreton, and Biarritz passing numerous coastal villages and attractive harbours, through a range of terrain, including pine forests and alongside canals, with lots of opportunities to spot flora and fauna en route, particular in sections that pass nature reserves. The dedicated website cycling-lavelodyssee.com contains lots of useful information to help plan cycling all or part of the route, including GPS tracking and links to businesses along the route that have the 'Accueil Vélo' label, which means they satisfy a set of criteria that welcome cyclists, such as they are less than 5km from the route, have facilities for cyclists, such as secure bike storage, bike rental, washing machines, etc. amd provide useful information, such as weather forecasts. The website also features a section on The 10 Commandments of Sustainable Tourism , which includes information on caring for nature along the route, reducing waste, buying local, and suggestions for taking eco-friendly kit. Cycling on the Vélosud, Pyrennees Although this 650km cycle route crossed the Pyreneean range , it's billed as a more relaxing alternative to the Vélodyssée, as it runs along the moderate slopes of the foothills of this scenic natural border from Biarritz on the west Atlantic coast to Le Barcarès on the Mediterranean coast, split into 13 stages across the six mountain departments: Pyrénées-Atlantiques; Hautes-Pyrénées; Haute-Garonne; Ariège; Aude; and Pyrénées-Orientales. The majority of the route is on roads shared with traffic, but along the way there are some utterly gorgeous stretches along traffic-free trails - about a third of the route is either on greenways or cycle paths and lanes, such as the section on the stage between Salies-de-Béarn to Orthez where you cycle on a former railway line in the Gave de Pau Valley. The section in Nouvelle-Aquitaine runs from Biarritz to Pau, following beaches, fishing harbours, and the banks of rivers through picturesque countryside. Access the route from railway stations at either end - in the west, at Biarritz (on the high-speed line Bordeaux to Hendaye) where there's a 5km cycle link from the station to the main beach Grande Plage de Biarrtitz, at Pau (end point of the Nouvelle-Aquitaine section), and in the east, at either Rivesaltes railway station or Perpignan railway station – both are connected to Narbonne and Toulouse, and on the TER regional trains you can transport your bike for free with a reservation. en.francevelotourisme.com Explore Marais Poitevin – 'Green Venice' The protected Poitevin marshes, just a few kilometres from the city of Niort (the only city in France to be in a Natural Park), extending from the Bay of Aiguillon up to a manmade area known as 'Green Venice', is a 100,000 hectare site that's a maze of waterways containing a rich variety of biodiversity, including 250 species of birds, nearly 40 species of fish, 60 species of dragonflies, 80 species of butterflies, and over 130 species of flora that are unique to the area. The best way to explore the canals, channels and conches of the Green Venice section is by boat or canoe and there are plenty of boatman guides (similar to the gondoliers in Venice) on hand to help you reach the best places. Alternatively, you can rent a boat and discover this spectacular nature reserve for yourself. The website niortmaraispoitevin.com lists over a dozen operators who provide boats and guides with suggested tours from a few hours to all day. == For nearby characterful places to stay, local food and drink, and local sights of interest, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Nouvelle-Aquitaine

As part of our feature on Climate Smart Holidays in West Sweden, Sarah Baxter took the train from the UK to West Sweden in September to visits five low carbon places to stay. Here is the fifth place she visited: Dalslands Activities In a nutshell: An outdoor activity centre where you stay in lakeside glasshouses and can pretty much do everything in the great outdoors, including beaver safaris, bushcraft, campfire cooking, fishing, foraging, gold-panning, high ropes, horseback hacks, SUP-ing. The centre offers an array of human-powered, low-impact activities that encourage a deep-dive into the surrounding lakes, forests and fields. Rooms: Glass cabins (the stuff dreams are made of!) in woods by the water's edge. There’s an outside toilet near the glass cabin but the shower is in the activity centre 800 metres away. Price: 3-night package from 8695 SEK per person for single booking and 5595 SEK per person for two people. It is also possible to book a glasshouse for 1 night for 3200 SEK on a B&B basis Meals: Three breakfasts delivered to your glasshouse, two lunches and three dinners Open: April to October Carbon count: One night at Dalslands Aktiviteter creates around 1.5kg CO2-equivalent per person (the carbon emissions at an average hotel in Sweden is approximately 6.8kg CO2-equivalent) Dalsland Activities. All photos Richard Hammond except sunset canoeing: Roger Borgelid/Westsweden.com; sauna: West Sweden Tourist Board Sarah Baxter's insight: “I burn for nature,” Pontus Gyllenberg told me on lunchtime, over a dish of local-caught venison. “I want people to experience the countryside – when they see it they want to conserve it.” And seeing it at Dalslands Aktiviteter comes in every imaginable form. This activity hub in West Sweden’s ‘lake province’ was founded by Pountus’s father as a horse-riding centre 30 years ago; Pontus took over in 2011. Now, you can do pretty much anything here: beaver safaris, bushcraft, campfire cooking, fishing, foraging, gold-panning, high ropes, horseback hacks, SUP-ing. The centre offers an array of human-powered, low-impact activities that encourage a deep-dive into the surrounding lakes, forests and fields. I opted for a kayak trip down the tree-flanked Stenebyälven River, Jesper as my guide. As we ducked under branches and paddled gleefully through the faster ripples, he told me about the area, about its Ice Age potholes, river pearl mussels, 13th-century church and ancient ritual sites. “Obviously,” he said, “people have long been attracted to this special place.” However, as fun as it was to go out adventuring, I fell hardest for staying in. My room for the night was a secluded and off-grid glass cabin, perched on the weathered-smooth rocks by Lake Iväg. Reclining on my crisp white sheets, doors thrown wide, all I could see were the fragrant forest, the mirror lake and the cloudless blue above. I laid and watched the sky change as the day began to fade, paling to blush-pink, deepening through shades of blue, finishing as a canopy of stars. Who wouldn’t want to conserve this? How to get to Dalslands Activities The activity centre is half way between Gothenburg and Oslo. By train/bus: From Gothenburg it's just over an hour Ed station from where you can take the local bus to the Steneby Kyrka stop (around 40 minutes) then walk five minutes to the activity centre. You can also get the train to Mellerud or Åmål and change to local bus there, again to the Steneby Kyrka stop. From Stockholm the train journey takes around five hours. By Bike: The two national cycle trails, Unionsleden and Vänerleden, pass the town of Dals Långed 6km from the activity centre. More information: Book a stay at Dalsland Activities: dalslandsaktiviteter.se In splendid isolation at a lakeside glass house, Dalsland Activities. Photo: Richard Hammond

As part of our feature on Climate Smart Holidays in West Sweden, Sarah Baxter took the train from the UK to West Sweden in September to visits five low carbon places to stay. Here is the first place she visited: Erikson Cottage In a nutshell: A tranquil glass cabin in south Västergötland. The owners run their own onsite bakery and offer fabulous breakfasts (at your cabin or at the farm bakery) and candlelit dinners at the farm bakery Rooms: 2 glass cabins, one in the woods the other by a lake Price: 2-night package from 7,200 Swedish Krona for two people, includes two breakfast and dinner plus use of kayak and SUP. Meals: Two Breakfasts (either at the Farm Bakery or in by basket delivered to your Glass Cabin) and Two Dinners Open: 1 May-15 October Carbon count: One night at Erikson Cottage creates around 0.3kg CO2-equivalent per person (the carbon emissions at an average hotel in Sweden is approximately 6.8kg CO2-equivalent per person) Erikson Eco Cottage, showing the glass houses, sauna, meals (delivered by electric bike), night sky and the interior of the beautiful traditional cottage. Photos: Richard Hammond Sarah's insight: Elisabeth Erikson worked the dough for tomorrow’s cinnamon buns as we chatted in her farmhouse bakery; soothing music played, candles flickered. “Before people come to stay here, they ask: what activities can we do?,” she told me, kneading away. “But then they arrive. And do nothing. They read, lie in bed, read some more, drink coffee.” I took a slurp myself – a rich brew served in the perfect mug, handmade by a local ceramicist. “They just enjoy slowing down.” I’d only been at Erikson Cottage for a few hours and could already feel the place dialling down my speedometer. At this trio of glasshouses in the calming forests of Västergötland, it would seem rude to rush. My home for the night was Skogen, a glass cabin hidden in a glade of pine, fir, blueberry bushes, mushrooms and, unquestionably, magic. Completely off-grid, with separate toilet and kitchen huts, and no electricity, the site rests gently yet luxuriously on this fourth-generation farm. There was a shower I could use near the (solar-powered) main buildings, but the following morning I opted to use Lake Lagmanshagasjön instead. From the jetty I slipped into its brilliantly brisk water, startling a heron. Back at my private enclave, breakfast was delivered by electric van: a full basket, including local Lillebacke cheese, blueberry marmalade, sliced apples and plums, and Elisabeth’s sourdough rolls, baked using organic heritage grains. I ate well and considered what to do next: borrow a kayak or SUP? Forage for chanterelles? Take a stroll through the woods? Or just curl up back in bed with my book…? How to get to Erikson cottage By train: Less than two hours from Gothenburg – the "Coast to Coast" train (which runs from Gothenburg to Kalmar/Karlskrona) stops at Limmared and Hestra where you can be picked up by electric car (by arrangement with the owners) - it's about 20 minutes from the railway station to Erikson Cottage. By electric car: it's about 120 km (just over an hour and a half) from Gothenburg. There's a solar energy/green electric charge point on site. More information: Book a stay at Erikson Cottage: eriksoncottage.com

As part of our feature on Climate Smart Holidays in West Sweden, Sarah Baxter took the train from the UK to West Sweden in September to visits five low carbon places to stay. Here is the third place she visited: Lugnåsberget Ekohotell In a nutshell: A simple, homely, wholesome family-owned eco hotel on a small holding (hens in the garden and sheep in the field) that provides mostly home-made food from the owner's small holding Rooms: Single, twin and family rooms (six rooms in the annex plus an apartment in an old farmhouse) Price: 2-night package from 1,975 Swedish Krona for two people, includes two breakfasts and dinner plus use of the sauna and maps of the local area Meals: Organic breakfast (don't miss the home-baked bread with homemade jams and conserve), lunch basket, dinner basket with bean salad and smoked lamb/feta cheese. Food is either from the owner's farm or is from nearby suppliers and is organic and fairtrade. Open: March–June and September–October. Carbon count: One night at Lugnåsberget Ekohotell creates around 0.2kg CO2-equivalent per person (the carbon emissions at an average hotel in Sweden is approximately 6.8kg CO2-equivalent per person per night) Our stay at Lugnåsberget Ekohotell, including staying in the main house, relaxing in the barrel-top sauna, and visiting the fascinating Lugnåsberget millstone mines. Photos: Richard Hammond Sarah Baxter's insight: When Pia Åkesson and Jesper Persson first met, both clutching copies of John Seymour’s seminal Complete Book of Self-Sufficiency, they knew they were made for each other. Now, decades on, they run Lugnåsberget Ekohotell, a simple guesthouse within the Vänerskärgården & Kinnekulle UNESCO Biosphere Reserve that has the lightest of carbon footprints. Indeed, a wall meter displays how much energy the ecohotel generates via its solar panels – which is far more than it uses. For this couple, sustainability isn’t a buzzword, it’s a way of life. “We long dreamed of having a hostel – we like to meet people, and wanted to show there are different ways of living,” Jesper told me as we sat in the garden, eating homebaked cinnamon buns. This seemed appropriate. The original 19th-century farm is called Sofielund, after one of three sisters who once lived here, baking kanelbullar for the workers of Lugnåsberget’s millstone mines; one of those mines, Minnesfjället, is now an excellent museum. There are six rooms in the Ekohotell’s red-timber annex plus an apartment in the old yellow farmhouse. I stayed in the latter; my homey room had a balcony overlooking the grazing sheep. Truly minimal food miles: dinner that evening included smoked lamb from Pia and Jesper’s flock, as well as fruit and veg from their smallholding and local producers. The Ekohotell is a great base. You can pick up hiking and cycling trails from the doorstep, swim and canoe at Lake Vristulven, explore the Biosphere; there’s a train station just 4km away. But be sure to do as I did and return to hit the west-facing wood-fired sauna for the hottest sunset views. Things to do Hiking: The Biosphere Trail passes right outside the hotel - it's a wonderful 140km hiking trail that hugs the southern shore of Lake Vänern, passing through through beautiful, varied landscapes with viewpoints, islands, town centres, and forests, between Läckö and Mariestad. In just five miles, Sarah walked the flanks of Mount Kinnekulle, explored two nature reserves, browsed the gardens, gallery and flea market of Hellekis Manor, "and ate the best cinnamon bun I’ve ever tasted on a rock ledge overlooking Vänern’s endless waters". Guided tour of Qvarnstensgruvan museum: There are guided tours of the fabulous Millstone Quarry and museum at Qvarnstensgruvan. For more about this, read Sarah's article West Sweden, the humble hero Cycling: Stage 4 of the Vänerleden cycle trail (the bit between Mariestad and Lidköping) passes 7km from the hotel Canoeing: Take the hotel's canoes down to the nearby Lake Vristulven (they can be driven down there by electric car and trailer) Wild Swimming: There's a lovely natural swimming area in Lake Vristulven, 5 km from the hotel. Sauna: The hotel has it's own onsite sauna. How to get to Lugnåsberget Eco Hotel By train: About 2.5 hours by train from Gothenburg, 3.5 hours from Stockholm. Get off at Lugnås station, from where you can either walk to the eco-hotel (around 3 km) or arrange to be picked up by the owner's electric car. By electric car: There are three EV chargers on site from the hotel's own solar array. On foot: Stages 7 and 8 of the Biosphere Trail pass right outside the house. By Bike: Stage 4 of the Vänerleden Trail between Mariestad and Lidköping can be accessed around 7 km from Ekohotellet. More information: Book at stay at the Lugnåsberget Eco Hotel: www.lugnasberget.se

As part of our feature on Climate Smart Holidays in West Sweden, Sarah Baxter took the train from the UK to West Sweden to visits five low carbon places to stay. Here is the second place she visited: Inforest In a nutshell: An off-grid cabin (they call it a 'tiny house') in the forests just outside Hjo on Lake Vättern. Rooms: 1 double bed plus mezzanie double. Price: 2-night package from 7,200 Swedish Krona for two people, includes bedding, towels, wood and final cleaning plus transport to and from Hjo bus station. Meals: Self-catering Open: April to October Carbon count: One night at Inforest creates around 0.9kg CO2-equivalent per person (the carbon emissions at an average hotel in Sweden is approximately 6.8kg CO2-eq per person) Our stay at Inforest, cooking on the outdoor fire, cycling to the lake, and star-gazing at night Photos: Richard Hammond Sarah's insight: Laying back on the bench by the side of the cabin, I watched the stars multiply. The more I stared, the more appeared, pin-pricking the inky sky above the silhouetted tree tops. The fire pit was still glowing; the remnants of dinner – toasted bread and buttered chanterelles – needed clearing but they’d have to wait. I was transfixed by the late-night show. It was 30 years ago that Jesper Uvesten’s father bought this peaceful patch of forest, just outside the historic trästaden (wooden town) of Hjo on Lake Vättern. In 2020 he opened his first of four secluded, self-sufficient tiny houses here. Handmade from natural materials by a local company, each cosy, off-grid cabin has a Scandinavian-minimalist design, well-kitted kitchen and a bathroom with a separating toilet and shower. But even better they have batteries that are charged via solar panels and water tanks with meters, so you can monitor your use. Both power and water should last two days, if used mindfully – something Jesper is keen to encourage. A stay at Inforest is about being immersed in this pretty pocket of nature but also about considering your impact: how much energy you consume, how much you really need. “For example, there’s plenty of hot water for a shower,” Jesper explained, “just not for a teenager-type 30-minute shower!” During my restful stay, I revelled in seeing how little I could consume. I charged my phone by day, when the sun was bright; cooked on the fire outside; kept the lights off, to better see the stars. And I left with my own batteries fully recharged. How to get to Inforest By train: about two hours from Gothenburg (three hours from Stockholm): take the train to Skövde and then the bus to Hjo bus station, where you will be picked up by electric car and taken to Inforest. More information: Book a stay at Inforest: inforest.se

As part of our guide to Climate Smart Holidays in West Sweden, Sarah Baxter discovers the green heart of West Sweden. As we wandered past the secondhand stores on Magasinsgatan – perfectly curated dens of vintage vinyl, cool dresses and worn-leather jackets – guide Ricky thought through my question. “Has Gothenburg been proactive in pursuing sustainability – or was it just doing those things anyway?” he mused. “I think it’s just a way of life here.” Gothenburg has been ranked ‘world’s most sustainable destination’ six times in a row according to the Global Destination Sustainability Index. But most locals don’t go on about their city’s excellent public transport (95% of which runs on renewable energy) or share-bike scheme; about the restaurants serving organic food or the fact that 92% of the hotels are environmentally certified – including grand Hotel Eggers, which has its own wind turbine. They go to Liseberg for fun, not because it’s the first amusement park in the world to receive sustainability certification. The city is clearly doing a lot right. Just in a very Gothenburgian way. “It’s a low-key place,” Ricky explained. “We don’t blow our own trumpet.” The stylish Hotel Eggers is opposite Gothenburg's main railway station. Photos: Richard Hammond Certainly, Gothenburg makes a great green mini-break. But it’s also the gateway to great green breaks in wider West Sweden. To the east and north of the city lies an easily accessible hinterland of lakes, more lakes, globally important mountains, meditative forest, moose, arable land, ancient history and characterful, climate-smart places to stay. It’s also a region that’s Stepping up Sustainability, a new initiative working on limiting tourism’s environmental impact, driving visits to wider areas and in different seasons, and ensuring the hospitality industry is good for both residents and visitors. I’d come to explore. First, I found Platåbergens, 3,690 sq km of table mountains and important rock on the south shores of Lake Vänern that was designated Sweden’s first UNESCO Global Geopark in 2022. Reachable by train, Platåbergens a fine place for hiking, biking, canoeing, wildlife-spotting – and also, I discovered, time travel. “Look slowly from ground to ceiling,” instructed Pia Åkesson, chair of the Minnesfjället mine museum, as she swung her torch around the cavern’s dark belly, from the gneiss bedrock to the sandstone above our heads. “That’s 1,000 million years in one go.” Not only that, Pia added, “you have the first life on earth here.” She focused her torch on the roof, revealing imprints of worms, jellyfish, feathery trilobites – animals that lived 540 million years ago. The mine itself dates from the 19th century; the men who worked it for its first-class millstones called these fossils moons and stars. “They didn’t know what they were,” Pia said, “but they sold them to geologists who did.” Pia is also co-owner of Lugnåsberget Ekohotell, a climate-smart guesthouse nearby, which proved to be an excellent base. As well as being only 4km from the nearest train station (from which she can pick you up), the 140km-long Biosphere Trail runs right past the Ekohotell’s door. I used the train to hike a section of the trail, between the little request-stop stations of Råbäck and Hällekis. In just five miles I walked the flanks of Mount Kinnekulle, explored two nature reserves, browsed the gardens, gallery and flea market of Hellekis Manor, and ate the best cinnamon bun I’ve ever tasted on a rock ledge overlooking Vänern’s endless waters. I used the train to hike a section of the trail, between the little request-stop stations of Råbäck and Hällekis, with local guide Amanda Hessle. In just five miles we walked the flanks of Mount Kinnekulle, explored two nature reserves and browsed the gardens, gallery and flea market of Hellekis Manor. Amanda brought along some buns from the bakery in nearby Blomberg, which we ate on a rock ledge overlooking Vänern's endless waters. Flavoured with vanilla and cardamom, they were some of the best I've ever tasted. The Biosphere Trail begins in the town of Mariestad. It ends at Läckö Slott. People have lived at this strategic site on the tip of Kållandsö island for at least 2,000 years – there’s rock art to prove it. But what stands today is a baroque castle, built by Count Magnus Gabriel De la Gardie in the 17th century – and little changed since. What has changed is Läckö’s walled garden. British horticulturalist Simon Irvine took it on 30-odd years ago, and set about transforming what was then a sterile patch of lawn and roses into an ecologically cultivated kitchen garden that is now both beautiful and abundant. After admiring its walnut trees, bulbous tomatoes and gargantuan kale, I took a seat at nearby Hvita Hjorten, the award-winning restaurant it feeds. “Some things are 20 minutes from picking to serving,” said chef Katrin Ljungblom as she placed a dish in front of me: pike-perch from the lake, courgettes, leek and sage from the garden, wild garlic powder, made from leaves picked on Kinnekulle. “Produce comes into the kitchen when it’s ready; you have to take care of it, respect it. It’s a creative way to work.” Two of the hermitages at Swedish Country Living. Photos: Richard Hammond Heading clockwise from Läckö, continuing around Lake Vänern, you eventually end up in Dalsland, a province with a tiny population but a huge amount of water. Indeed, it’s a quarter covered by lakes, with much of the rest cloaked in dense, uninhabited forest. Trains do penetrate here too, though. It takes just over an hour to ride from Gothenburg to Mellerud, where David and Marie Naraine can collect you and whisk you to their eco-friendly homestead, Swedish Country Living. Warning: once you’ve arrived, it’s hard to leave. The three, off-grid tiny houses here are the perfect marriage of sustainable materials, eco-design and Scandi-cool. Snuggled in my wood-and-slate hermitage (pictured above, centre and right), woodburner roaring, candles twinkling, I didn’t really want to be anywhere else. However, the next day, after an invigorating lake dip and a breakfast of homebaked bread, cheese and eggs from the couple’s chickens, I decided to wander a little further afield. The 100km Pilgrimsleden in Dalsland traces part of the route medieval pilgrims once used to reach the tomb of St Olaf in Nidaros (now Trondheim). And it passes close to Swedish Country Living. Unable to resist a tramp in historical footprints, I caught a lift to the Svankila Nature Reserve and followed the pilgrim path from there. The sun shone through the trees, shimmered on the lake and kissed the clapperboard summerhouses as I headed north on the easy track, my only company a low-flying buzzard. Soon I reached the village of Upperud, a one-time industrial hub and key centre during the construction of the Dalsland Canal. It was quiet here, too; I was the only visitor at the eco-designed Art Museum, and happily browsed the lyrical landscape paintings of local-born Otto Hesselbom. There was also a wonderful collection of traditional Dalsland crafts and furniture, including painted cabinets and wooden figures. “The area was really poor 200 years ago,” the lady at the front desk told me. “The people here didn’t have much but they used what they had, and made it beautiful. A humble, quiet beauty.” Which seemed to sum up West Sweden. A place of glorious landscapes where conserving, reusing, creating beauty and striving for sustainability is, for many, just a way of life. ==== Disclosure: Sarah Baxter was a guest of the West Sweden Tourist Board. She has full editorial control of the review, which is written in her own words based on her experience of visiting West Sweden in September 2023. All opinions are the author’s own. More information: To book a holiday in West Sweden with a UK tour operator, see: sustainablejourneys.co.uk/journeys/low-carbon-grand-tour-of-west-sweden-by-ev More information on West Sweden: westsweden.com

As part of our guide to Climate Smart Holidays in West Sweden, Sarah Baxter tries out the options for a low carbon holiday The glasshouse had curtains. But I didn’t draw them. Out here, in the lake-edge forest, there was no one to peer in except the birds, perhaps a beaver. So, exposed to the alarm clock of Mother Nature, I woke at first light, watched the day begin to form. Eventually I left my bed’s warm hug, flung open the doors, walked a few steps, over smooth rock and pine needles, and plunged into the lake’s chilled stillness. Electricity? Hot shower? Who needs them? It was the final day of my trip to West Sweden and I was getting used to such idyllic simplicity. I’d come to try out the region’s new Climate Smart Holidays, a new strand in West Sweden’s Stepping up Sustainability initiative. These are packages with the lowest possible carbon emissions, staying at small, family-run businesses, in unique accommodation, with local-sourced food, accessible by public transport (with pick-ups from nearby stations in electric cars, if required). At Dalslands Aktiviteter that meant low-impact kayaking down the Stenebyälven River, eating local-caught wild game, lounging in a wood-fired hot-tub and sleeping in the aforementioned glass cabin, totally off-grid, completely out of this world. The fun had begun from my front door, having reached Sweden on a train odyssey via London, Brussels, Cologne, Hamburg (overnighting in Germany’s first cabin hotel), Copenhagen and finally Gothenburg. After an opulent sleep in grand Hotel Eggers, right by Gothenburg’s main station, it was a four-minute walk to pick up a Polestar, an electric car with a range of 400km, perfect for my eco adventure. Soon, the city faded into tree-flanked highway, the roads squeezing progressively narrower and narrower as I drove east into the forests of Västergötland, to Erikson Cottage. This farm near the shores of Lagmanshagasjön Lake has been in the same family since 1850; now sisters Elisabeth and Katarina run it as a bakery, pizza-making workshop and place for people to relax and de-stress in their three gorgeous glass cabins. “There’s no electricity,” Elisabeth explained as she showed me to my woodland dell, home to a glasshouse, and separate kitchen and toilet huts. “They can all be lifted off and taken away – you’d see no trace. We also have solar panels, our own well and septic tank, and a charging point for cars.” They also have something special, a mood conjured from the exhalation of the trees, the lap of the lake, the smell of fresh-baked bread, the soft music and candlelight, the twittering birds and dashing deer. Ingredients, when mixed, that create something supremely comforting and delicious. I could have stayed, sunk into Erikson Cottage, for days. But I had a date further north, near Hjo, where Jesper Uvesten has hidden a handful of off-grid cabins around his family forest. I was staying in Esther (named after Jesper’s oldest daughter), a cosy, self-catering bolthole for up to four with a large fire pit outside and a hare living underneath. Esther is also supremely smart: her solar panels power-up batteries that can last two days, even when the sun’s not shining; the waste from her toilet is turned to compost; her big water tank and meter mean you can happily shower, while keeping an eye on your usage. She was a charming, secluded, peaceful place to stay. I cooked up a feast on the campfire, listened to the snap-crackle of the woods – perhaps wild boar, snuffling for acorns? – and cycled to nearby Lingonudden (Lingonberry Head) to watch the day’s last rays reflected in the little pond. From Inforest it was only an hour’s drive to Lugnåsberget, one of the smallest mountains in Västergötland but – as I soon discovered from Pia Åkesson and Jesper Persson – one of the most fascinating. Determined to live a more sustainable life, the couple bought an old farm here 13 years ago; after two years of renovations, involving recycled materials, secondhand furniture, grazing goats and sheep, and plenty of hard work, they opened it as Lugnåsberget Ekohotell. Rooms are simple and comfortable, food is local-sourced and homemade, power comes from solar panels, heat from the biomass boiler. Of the five climate-smart properties, it’s the smartest: one night here creates around 0.2kg CO2-equivalent per person (the average hotel in Sweden creates around 6.8kg CO2-eq). I plugged in my car, fortified myself with one of Pia’s cinnamon buns and set off to explore. The mountain, though small, is special. Cistercian monks, who came here in the 12th century, discovered its top layer of bedrock was especially well-suited for making millstones. For 800 years this industry was vital to the people here; more than 600 quarries and 50 mines were cut into the slopes. I hiked the 6km Stenhuggarstigen (Stonecutter’s Trail), which begins near the ecohotel, and found it littered with reminders. Abandoned millstones lay higgle-piggle among the oak and birch trees, wigged with moss; the ruins of a smithy sat by an overgrown quarry; old workers’ cottages were subsumed by the forest. Lugnåsberget rises just below Lake Vänern and, next, I steered around the southernmost tip of Sweden’s largest lake, to enter the province of Dalsland. After a smooth two-hour drive, I arrived at Swedish Country Living. This rural retreat isn’t far off the main road, or from the nearest train station. But it feels a million miles away. There are three individually designed tiny houses here, well-spaced between the native trees, pond and pasture surrounding David and Marie Naraine’s own home. Aesthetically, the hermitages are a delight. The Slate House, in which I stayed (picture bottom centre and right), looked snatched from a fairytale. It was handmade from wood felled on site, and clad in gingerbread-like tiles; inside were candle lanterns, sheepskins from the farm, antique kilims. The hermitates at Swedish Country Living. Photos: Richard Hammond But even more impressive was the couple’s eco-ethos, from their use of recycled building materials to the shower block’s circular water system to their regenerative farming techniques. “We learnt the skills as we went along,” David told me in the orangery (also built from secondhand glass and brick); it’s here the former chef serves delicious dinners. Tonight: slow-cooked lamb, reared and butchered on site, and homegrown potatoes, lemon, parsley and garlic. “We wanted to keep it small scale,” he added, “so you feel part of the family when you’re here.” I felt it. Because, like all the other climate-smart places, David and Marie have created something sustainable without sacrificing the splendour, the cosiness or the joy of being in nature one bit. ==== Disclosure: Sarah Baxter was a guest of the West Sweden Tourist Board. She has full editorial control of the review, which is written in her own words based on her experience of visiting West Sweden in September 2023. All opinions are the author’s own. More information: To book a holiday in West Sweden with a UK tour operator, see: sustainablejourneys.co.uk/journeys/low-carbon-grand-tour-of-west-sweden-by-ev More information on West Sweden: westsweden.com

As part of our feature on Climate Smart Holidays in West Sweden, Sarah Baxter took the train from the UK to West Sweden in September to visits five low carbon places to stay. Here is the fourth place she visited: Swedish Country Living The hermitages at Swedish Country Living: left: A-frame Hermitage. right: Slate-house Hermitage Photos: Richard Hammond In a nutshell: Three stylish but cosy, off-grid cottages, surrounded by forest and next to a huge lake where you can paddle out to an island or just kick-back and enjoy an outdoor heated bath by the tall grass. The owners - former restaurants owners – provide everything from meat from their grazing sheep to home grown veg and serve up a fabulous dining experience in a beautiful Orangery. Rooms: Three Hermitage Cottages in woodland, all sleep two: the orginal Hermitage is a beautiful tiny house; the A-Frame Hermitage has a stylish Scandinavian interior with the bed up a ladder in the loft; the Slate House Hermitage is a gingerbread house covered with over 4,000 slate tiles - looks out over a pond. Price: 2-night package from 5,450 Swedish Krona per person, minimum two people, includes two breakfast, one packed lunch, and two dinners plus use of canoe or kayak with life jacket Meals: Breakfasts in your room or in the Orangery Open: April to September Carbon count: One night at Swedish Country Living creates around 0.4kg CO2-equivalent per person (the carbon emissions at an average hotel in Sweden is approximately 6.8kg CO2-eq) Our stay at Swedish Country Living, including staying in the hermitages, kayaking on the lake, relaxing in an outdoor hot bath overlooking the lake, and cooking our own pizza in the evening. All photos: Richard Hammond, except final food photo: Badass. Sarah Baxter's insight: Looking at the Slate House, watching smoke curl from its chimney up into the surrounding trees, I thought: this could be centuries old. Its thick doors were timeworn, its roof traditionally tarred, its windows antique, its walls clad in grey slate tiles, no two quite the same. And yet, it was hand-built in 2021. A mini-monument to recycling at its most chic. The Slate House is one of three unique cabins at Swedish Country Living, the brainchild of David and Marie Naraine (pictured below). They used to work in restaurants and designer fashion. Now, they’ve turned the land around their 1850s Dalsland summerhouse into a idyllic rural retreat. It’s an exemplar of how to live sustainably and in style. The whole site is circular. The showers are fed by lake water, which is then filtered via the greenhouse and pumped back into the lake. The waste from the separating toilets composts the land. Sheep graze on rotation, promoting biodiversity; lambs are butchered on site and served, deliciously, in the orangery by the veg patch – not food miles but metres. The cabins have no electricity, running water or en suites (though each has access to a private shower room). What they do have is character in spades. The couple’s architect son, Jonathan, designed them, starting not with floor plans but with the salvaged windows, bricks and doors his parents had accrued. “It was fun, doing it that way,” he said as we canoed on the lake one dazzling afternoon. “This way of designing, based on what you have, is the way of the future, and the challenge we face with climate change.” How to get to Swedish Country Living By train: It's just over an hour from Gothenburg (five hours from Stockholm) – the train stops at Mellerud station, where you can organise with the owners to book transfer to Swedish Country Living (it's about 10km) by electric car. By electric car: It's about 140km (just under 2 hours) from Gothenburg. There’s a 22kW solar EV charge point on site. More information: Book a stay at Swedish Country Living: swedishcountryliving.com

Living up to its name as the ‘Garden of England’, Kent has an abundance of beautiful countryside, natural habitats and local produce to explore. Offering ways to conserve, protect and celebrate this bountiful county, Katy Mason, Girl About Kent, shares five rewarding activities to make the most of your next staycation JOIN A COMMUNITY BEACH CLEAN IN MARGATE ‘Rise Up. Clean Up’ is a community-driven movement that hosts regular beach cleans in the seaside town of Margate. With sessions on weekends and evenings, join a group to help clear up any rubbish left behind on the beach and bask in the glow of joining this sociable and rewarding activity. Litter pickers and bin bags are provided; visit the website for upcoming dates. riseupcleanup.co.uk PADDLE DOWN THE RIVER STOUR WITH CANOE WILD Spend a blissful couple of hours exploring the waterways of Canterbury’s River Stour by kayak, canoe or paddle board with Canoe Wild. Based just 2.5 miles outside of Canterbury, Canoe Wild run both guided tours and private hire of their water equipment throughout the year from their base in Fordwich – England’s smallest town. It’s a tranquil way to see some of Kent’s natural habitats. canoewild.co.uk GO FORAGING WITH FORTH & FORAGE Discover some of Kent’s spectacular array of wild foods on one of Forth & Forage’s friendly foraging walking tours through the coast, woodlands and towns of Herne Bay, Whitstable and Canterbury. A brilliant way of engaging with nature, on one of Amy’s fabulous tours you’ll learn how to identify some of the hidden gems in our environment, from the edible flowers and healing herbs, to wild spices and seasonal fruits. forthandforage.co.uk ESCAPE INTO THE FOREST AT BEDGEBURY PINETUM Set in the heart of the High Weald’s AONB, Bedgebury Pinetum is home to a worldleading collection of conifers and over 12,000 specimen trees. Spanning 350 acres, this magnificent Forestry England site boasts spectacular views, serene trails and natural play areas for youngsters. If you’re keen to really immerse yourself in forest life, there is the fabulous, family-run Stay At Forest Edge glamping site nearby. forestryengland.uk/bedgebury FOLLOW A NATURE TRAIL AT ROMNEY MARSH Boasting a diverse range of wildlife, nature trails and an award-winning visitor centre (thanks to its host of sustainable features), Romney Marsh Nature Reserve is a prime spot for a day out on the Kent coast. Managed by the Kent Wildlife Trust, conservation is at the heart of the reserve and it’s a designated Site of Scientific Interest. Spend some time here and you’ll come away with a deeper understanding of the region’s rich history and diverse habitats. kentwildlifetrust.org.uk == Katy Mason on instagram @girl.aboutkent

Rhiannon Batten reports on a new micro-dining experience that celebrates Somerset's local larder It’s surely the closest Somerset gets to the North Pole. Not because we happen to visit on a night when the temperature has dipped but because the barn in which Jules and Steve Horrell and their children, Harvey and Lauren, are scurrying around like cheerful elves is hung with baskets, lit by candles, warmed by a wood-burner and festooned with seasonal foliage. The magical former cow byre may be the setting for Horrell & Horrell, the family’s new micro-dining experience at their home in Sparkford, but if Santa was ever looking for a stylish new grotto it would be a shoo-in. Jules and Steve, who previously worked together at Bruton’s Roth Bar & Grill, have honed their cooking and hosting skills over many years and their experience shows. Seating just 30 diners at one long table, the approach may be rustic, with much of the menu cooked over fire, but it’s done with real polish. A snapshot of Somerset’s farm-to-fork food scene in three courses, we graze our way through plates of homegrown beetroot with buffalo mozzarella and sesame-sprinkled Persian bread, slowcooked beef brisket with celeriac gratin and cavolo nero, and flaky quince and apple turnovers. Almost all of the ingredients have been grown on site, or sourced from small-scale local producers. Delicious and decadent in equal measure, it feels the right way to eat in Somerset, packed as it is with regenerative farms, cider orchards and cheesemakers. Shifting the focus from more formal dining experiences to those that are closer to the farming end of the spectrum creates culinary alchemy in this rural county, where growers and diners are so closely connected. This ethos reaches its pinnacle in July, when the Somerset Food Trail champions the county’s farmers and producers. Yet micro-dining operators like Horrell & Horrell, Pennard Hill Farm near Glastonbury (which has launched a series of winter feasts made with wild, foraged or sustainably farmed local ingredients), Margot in Bruton and Pomona Supperclub in Frome are now making this more muddy-booted style of eating available year-round. == Follow Rhiannon Batten on Instagram @rhiannonbatten

Few winter holidays can beat the exhilaration of skiing through fresh powdered snow in the clean mountain air, surrounded by spectacular mountain views, followed by feasting on a fondue with friends in a cosy, fireside chalet at the end of a muscle-aching day. But historically, the infrastructure that’s been put in place to cater for the downhill winter sports industry has put a great strain on mountain ecosystems, including the levelling of wildlife-friendly pine forests in order to make way for long, gently sloping pistes, while local water supplies have been drained to provide billions of gallons of water for artificial snowmaking machines at purpose-built resorts. In recent years, many ski areas have sought to lessen their environmental impact, using renewable energy to operate chairlifts and power accommodation, and improving their public transport network to reduce the need for cars. But you can do your bit too, by travelling to resorts by train to reduce your holiday’s carbon emissions and by choosing alternative low-impact winter activities where your footprint on the mountains will be only snow deep. Next time you’re on the snow, why not try one of these wintersports instead? They are exhilarating yet peaceful and offer an escape into the wild. Snowshoeing The gentlest way to enjoy the powder and pine trees is to go snowshoeing. Wonderfully straightforward, it means attaching specialised outer footwear (‘snowshoes’) to your shoes or boots that distribute your weight over a larger area to prevent your feet from sinking into the snow. Snowshoes are in the shape of tennis rackets, hence why the French call them raquettes. Think of it as simply a winter walk made easier. Kitting up with just the usual ski clothing, gloves and poles is all you need to head into the wintry landscape, where you’re far more likely to see mountain wildlife and appreciate the beauty of the mountain environment than you would hurtling down a manicured slope on skis. The Swiss Alps and the Italian Dolomites are popular locations for snowshoeing (or snow trekking), though one of the best places is the Pyrenees. Spanning 270 miles (435km) across the south-west of France, northern Spain and Andorra, the region lacks the scale and crowds of the Alps but it’s no less rewarding. Cross-country skiing Using skis that are thinner, lighter and longer than downhill skis, with a free-heel binding system that you use with lightweight boots, crosscountry skiing typically takes place on prepared tracks on the valley floor, often alongside mountain rivers and through pine forests. The skis have scales on the underside to help stop you slipping backwards so that you can push and glide quickly and smoothly across the snow. The technique involves sliding one foot directly forwards followed by the other foot, using poles alternately. It’s a great way to travel quickly across long distances on the flat. As with all forms of skiing, while fitness is important, balance and co-ordination are crucial if you’re to enjoy this strenuous form of exercise. Many popular ski resorts have groomed pistes for cross-country skiers, so it is widely available across the Alps (particularly in Switzerland and the Dolomites), but there are also excellent tracks in other areas, such as Poland and Slovakia. In Norway, Finland and Sweden (including Västergötland, pictured above) cross-country skiing is a national sport. Ski Touring At first glance, ski touring can seem odd. It involves attaching synthetic ‘skins’ to the underside of your skis to give you traction to walk up a snowy slope. Then, once you’ve gained some height, you detach and pack away the skins and start your descent, enjoying the exhilaration of skiing down deserted untracked snow. To any seasoned downhill skier, it can be baffling as to why you wouldn’t simply take a lift up, then venture off piste if you so wished. Yet aficionados of ski touring (known as ski de randonnée in France) say the climb up can often be more enjoyable and rewarding than the ski down. It’s worth noting going off piste can be dangerous and should only be done once you have attained an appropriate level of skill, fitness and familiarity with navigating in the mountains, including the ability to read weather systems and the variable snow conditions. It’s highly recommended to go with a qualified mountain guide. There are many organisations that offer courses in ski touring where you’ll learn how to skin and kick-turn efficiently, how to avoid avalanche terrain, and use essential safety equipment. Once you’re proficient in ski touring, it opens up a whole new dimension to skiing where you can stay overnight in mountain huts and continue touring day after day in the glorious wild hinterland. In Scotland, there are lots of ski touring routes that traverse many of the Munros (mountains over 3,000ft/914m high), such as the 6¼-mile (10km) traverse of the Pass of Drumochter, the main mountain route between the northern and southern central Scottish Highlands, and the 10-mile (16km) traverse of Ben Macdui in the Cairngorms, where you can take the longer tour of the five 4,000ft (1,219m) peaks that takes in Cairn Gorm, Ben Macdui, Angel’s Peak, Cairn Toul and Braeriach. In Europe, one of the most popular ski touring routes is the Haute Route – a seven-day 75-mile (120km) tour traversing sections of two of the highest Alpine ranges between Zermatt and Chamonix. But there are many other equally rewarding ski tours in Europe, including the Silvretta Traverse in the Austrian Alps, south of the ski resort of St Anton, which is a great tour for those just starting out as the summits are lower than in the West Alps; the Bernese Oberland Traverse in central Switzerland, with superb views of the Jungfrau, Mönch and Eiger; the Dolomites Circuit, which passes through remote valleys, dominated by the iconic towering limestone cliffs and pinnacles; and the Gran Paradiso Traverse, which includes a strenuous trek up to the summit of the Paradiso itself (13,323ft/4,061m), followed by a thrilling descent of over 6,500ft (2,000m). ====== This is an edited extract from The Green Traveller, published by Pavilion (£18.99), which also appeared in the December 2023/January 2024 issue of the Green Traveller magazine.

As part of our series of Green Traveller's Guides to European cities, here we focus on Cologne, one of Germany's oldest cities. Sheltering on the banks of the Rhine, Cologne was founded by the Romans in 38 BC. A vast Gothic cathedral, the city’s best-known landmark and most visited site in the country, presides over an architectural patchwork of Roman towers, medieval churches and post-war office blocks. Around the cathedral is the Altstadt, or Old Town, where hops-loving visitors indulge in Kölsch, the distinctive local brew. With over one million inhabitants, and a lively student population, Cologne is a vibrant metropolis: The Cologne Opera, Cologne Philharmonic Orchestra and numerous theatres are just some of the cultural events and attractions on offer. Although Cologne is one of the most important hubs in Northern Europe, over a quarter of the city is made up of green spaces so it's not hard to escape the crowds. Cologne is the most populous student town in Germany so there's no shortage of bars and clubs, and with 36 museums, 120 galleries and an enormous shopping district, it's a great place to go for a city break. From London St Pancras it takes just under 5 hours by train (via a simple platform change at Brussels) - see our guide to how to take the train from London to Cologne. Getting around Cologne by public transport Cologne Central train station (Hauptbahnhof) is in the centre of the city, so it’s just a short stroll from the station to the magnificent Dom Cathedral, the city’s main tourist office, and many shops, bars and restaurants. The city also has an excellent public transport network to take you across the city and further afield. Cologne’s handy Welcome Card (€9) enables you to travel on any public transport for up to 24 hours as well as discounts on many of the city’s main attractions, tours and facilities, including the Cologne City Museum, the Chocolate Museum, and the Rent a Bike service. As part of the huge Rhine-Ruhr urban region, Cologne is served by several lines of the local S-bahn rail network, and its Hauptbahnhof is a major hub thereof: here is a map of the S-bahn in Cologne and the surrounding area, the website also offers ticketing information (in German, can be translated). Cologne’s underground (U-bahn) is run by KVB, you can download network maps on their website, as well as ticket information and a journey planner. Trams and buses are operated by VRS, and have uniform tickets and fares; the VRS site offers a journey planner to find routes useful for you. If you’ll be travelling around a lot, it might be worth investing in the KölnCard, which offers unlimited travel and a range of discounts across the city. Places to eat in Cologne - for local, seasonal, organic food There are few better ways to spend a Sunday morning in Cologne – or to seek out the best regional food - than tucking into a civilised brunch. Café Vreiheit, Café Feynsinn, Café Bauturm, Café Stanton and Café Lichtenberg are a co-operative of certified organic coffee shops and restaurants across the city and are all part of the local Slow Food movement. All do great breakfasts and brunches as well as other meals. Or head to Café Sehnsucht, an independent café with pretty tiled walls, mismatched wooden furniture and a commitment to organic produce. It does everything from cakes to evening meals but it’s especially known for its elaborate monthly Sunday brunches. Souppresso Organic Cafe offers a cheap and tasty menu of impressively organic and vegetarian dishes, such as fennel or tomato soup, salad or fresh carrot and ginger juice. Alternatively, visit the restaurant in the evening for a sumptuous 3-course meal (including lamb stew and truffle ravioli) complemented by a range of organic wines. The on-site delicatessen also has organic olive oils and balsamic creams to take away. Brauhaus Fruh am Dom is a cavernous brewery tavern sat right behind Cologne's cathedral. Order a local Fruh Kolsch directly from the barrel and head out to the beer garden to bask in the sunshine. Alternatively, sit down to dinner in the Hofbraustuben restaurant and tuck into a traditional Cologne dish and admire the stunning panoramic views of the enormous gothic cathedral. The basement brewery dates back to 1235 and drinks are poured from wooden barrels on the bar. A few other great places to eat are: Café Vreiheit, Wallstraße 91; Café Feynsinn, Rathenauplatz 7; Café Bauturm, Aachener Straße 24-26; Café Stanton, Schildergasse 57; Café Lichtenberg, Richmodstraße 13; and Café Sehnsucht, Körnerstraße 67. What to see in Cologne Germany's most visited tourist attraction pulls in over 6.5 million visitors a year. Chances are, the cathedral - or Dom - will be the first thing you lay eyes on when you exit the main station. Dating back to 1248, the massive gothic cathedral took some six decades to complete and was once the tallest building in the world. There are some 509 steps to climb to the top of the south tower, but the view of the city at the top is well worth the effort. Its treasury also contains a wealth of artefacts and artworks. Just beside it is the Romano-Germanic Museum, where exhibits include the famous Dionysus mosaic and the world’s largest collection of Roman glassware. There are many other wonderful local attractions in Cologne (many of which you can see from the top of the cathedral!). Here are a few more suggestions: If you’re seeking solace outdoors, the 40-hectare Rheinpark is one of the most easily accessed green spaces in Cologne. It runs alongside the right bank of the Rhine River, can be accessed by both cable car and ferry and is home to all manner of distractions from children’s playgrounds to the sophisticated Claudius thermal spa (claudius-therme.de). But there are plenty of other parks to explore. For plant lovers there’s the Flora and Botanical Garden and the Forstbotanischer Garten, for picnickers and ramblers the 14-hectare Volksgarten park and for families the Finkens Garten nature-based theme park. A blend of ancient and modern, the Kolumba Museum in Cologne was previously known as the Diocesan Museum but changed its name when it moved to its current location, on the site of the former St Columba church, in 2007. Though many visitors come purely to enjoy its collections of religious art and artefacts, others are attracted by the building itself. Designed by Modernist Swiss architect Peter Zumthor, and integrating the remains of several churches into its fabric, it is an extremely peaceful and appropriately contemplative space. Sustainability is also at work here, with rooms heated geothermally. Germans love chocolate... they make nearly 1 million tonnes of the stuff every year. On the banks of the Rhine, Cologne's chocolate museum is a tour through chocolate's 3,000 year history - from the Aztec love of cocoa beans to the most modern brands and recipes and the introduction of fair trade labelling. There's a huge chocolate shop at the exit where you can buy chocolate in all shapes and sizes, including the famous Three Kings Gateau. Admission costs €7.50 per adult, and you can pay extra to take a guided tour (complete with free samples). Right: Not quite Charlie's Chocolate Factory, but oodles of Lindt chocolate tumble out of a fountain at Cologne's Chocolate Museum. Photo Richard Hammond. A must for anyone interested in contemporary art, the bold and airy purpose-built gallery at Museum Ludwig houses works in a huge range of styles, from pop art to surrealism via the abstract movement and expressionism. Highlights including one of the largest Picasso collections in Europe and an impressive compilation of early avant-garde Russian works. A thoughtfully curated programme of exhibitions keeps visitors coming back, as does the café-restaurant attached to the museum, which specialises in farm-fresh produce sourced from local, often organic, suppliers. Green Places to stay in Cologne A personal service is all part of the draw at Hotel Domstern – a spick and span three-star 16-room hotel right by the cathedral. So, too, is sustainability. Electricity comes from a green energy supplier and breakfasts are sourced ethically: organic, fair trade coffee comes from a small local roasting company; eggs, honey and more come from farmers around Cologne – the owners discovered their fruit juice supplier on a bicycle tour in the surrounding “Bergische Land”. Other items they make themselves, including yoghurt, jam, bread, butter and cream cheese. Art’Otel has artistic sensibilities and a modern outlook. Its 218 guest rooms are bright and largely white, its restaurant serves pan-Asian food, it hosts a permanent exhibition of collages by Korean-born artist SEO and its terrace overlooks a harbour that was recently gentrified as part of the Rheinhaufen urban redevelopment project. Set in the southern reaches of the city’s Old Town, it’s also one of the city’s greener hotels with water-saving showers, sophisticated ventilation systems and energy-efficient lighting. Radisson Blu Hotel Köln is an ultra-contemporary, four-star property in the city’s Deutz district, this 393-room hotel is a popular choice among business visitors. Free wifi, extensive gym and sauna facilities and easy access to the city’s leafy Rheinpark help guests unwind after hours, as does the hotel’s Feng Shui-inspired architecture. Motion detector lighting and green cleaning supplies help boost the hotel’s eco credentials. Hostel Kohn is a modern, seven-story former office building (with 262 beds in 72 rooms) on a quiet side street between Neumarkt and Rudolph Place. It's just about the perfect place to stay for the flashpacker - rooms are smart, light and minimal, and cost from €19 in a 6-bed dorm, €24 in a 4-bed dorm, €30 per person for a twin room, or €45 for a single room to yourself. Prices include ample breakfast with wide choice of cereals, yogurt and bread.

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to West Sweden we've picked out a selection of local attractions. Countless idyllic islands, stunning nature reserves, rock carvings dating back thousands of years and canals that snake on for miles - the only difficulty will be fitting it all in. West Sweden is a true haven of natural beauty. Vast nature reserves are home to hundreds of species of flora and fauna, while a myriad of animals, birds and fish thrive on the canals and islands just off the western coast. Head to the Weather Islands to catch sunbathing seals, or delve into Dalsland's forests for the chance to enounter the King of Sweden's forests, the moose. The area is also extremely rich in culture and history, with the rock carvings at Tanum dating back to the Bronze Age and the gardens at Gunnebo House charting man's changing relationship with nature. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to West Sweden: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places of interest in West Sweden The Weather Islands Otherwise known as the Väderöarna Islands, the Weather Islands number in their hundreds and offer some of the wamest and windiest climates in Sweden. This climate has created a wealth of vegetation amidst the craggy peaks, making this an ideal location for exploration. There's also plenty of space to relax - every summer, scores of Norwegians sail across to bask on the sun-kissed rocks. For nature enthusiasts there are plenty of birdwatching opportunities, and the islands are also home to one of Sweden's largest seal colonies. If you're looking to stay overnight, the Väderöarnas Värdshus is the islands' only accommodation and is famed for its fresh seafood. vastsverige.com The Koster Islands North and South Koster, Sweden's most westerly inhabited islands, are largely made up of picturesque nature reserves. Both islands offer beaches, moors, forests and rocky landscapes that are great for both walkers and cyclists - bikes can be hired at almost every pier on either island. South Koster offers some fantastic beaches, including Rörvik and Kilesand, as well as great views out over the archipelago at Valfjall. North Koster is slightly smaller (only 4km sq) and boasts a newly restored lighthouse - the view from the top is well worth the effort of climbing the steps. If you're a nature lover, there's also the chance to spot a number of endemic species of orchid throughout the north island. It's not surprise to us that it was shortlisted for the Best Emerging Destination in the World in the High Life Award 2011. vastsverige.com/en/Kosterhavet Marstrand Island Marstrand is perhaps one of the most recognisable towns on the coast of Bohuslän, renowned for its boating culture, Carlsten's Fortress, and for being a playground for the social elite since the 19th century. With a great deal of attractive wooden architecture, the island is worth at least a few hours of exploration while Carlsten's Fortress, once considered one of Europe's strongest maritime defence facilities, can be explored on your own or with a guide, and it even has its own hotel for those looking for a little unusual accommodation. The Grand Hotel Marstrand (this has been renovated but the grand architecture remains) and the Societetshuset are also beautiful areas from which to admire the town. vastsverige.com Biosphere at Lake Vänern Lake Vänern is Sweden's largest lake, and the Biosphere Reserve comprises of around 63% of the total surface area (including 4,569 islands). The lake itself dates back to 6500 BC and boasts over 20,000 small islands, islets and rocks making it the largest freshwater archipelago in the world. Also at the centre of the biosphere reserve is the impressive Mount Kinnekulle, Västergötland’s highest plateau mountain, and the entire reserve has been protected by UNESCO since 2010. With a national park to explore, plus numerous nature reserves, this is an ideal adventure for all nature lovers. On top of that, a project is currently underway to make the area Sweden's first 'Destination of Eco Tourism'. This involves creating lots of new hiking and biking trails, as well as strengthening ties with the local community. Gota Canal Constructed in the early 19th century, the Göta canal is 118 miles long and stretches from the Great Lake Vänern in the west to Söderköping on the Baltic Sea. The banks of the canal are lined with scenic vistas, beautiful towns and quaint villages. One of the canal's most popular attractions is the chain of locks at Berg, where seven connected locks lift the boats some 18 metres out of the water. Many visitors explore the canal in their own boats, but it is also possible to book classic canal boats offering both long and short-term trips. If you fancy exploring on land, the old labour road is a popular cycling track and there are a number of walking and hiking paths along the way. gotakanal.se Dalsland Canal Dalsland Canal is a haven for canoeists and kayakers, a 240km system of serene lakes, lush wilderness and picturesque campsites. A number of tour operators also offer organised canal cruises between May and September. There are a selection of sights and attractions along the canal, including the passage at Haverud - a combination of roadway bridge, railway bridge and aqueduct dating back to 1868. The House of Crafts, located by the beautiful Lake Upperudsholjen, is one of the best places to find local Swedish arts and crafts, and Dalsland's Museum is also close by. Gunnebo House and Gardens Just outside of central Gothenburg, Gunnebo House and Gardens is known as one of Europe's foremost 18th Century country estates. A fine example of neoclassical architecture, the grounds also feature three separate gardens; the formal garden, the landscape park and the kitchen garden - all of which are open every day, all year between sunrise and sunset. Each of these was originally designed by architect Carl Wilhelm Carlberg and are lovingly maintained by hand, without using any pesticides. Particularly interesting is the landscape or 'English' park, which tells the story of the late 18th Century, in which the Age of Enlightenment saw a changing of attitudes towards man's relationship with nature. Gunnebo boasts impressive environmental credentials, having been awarded Gothenburg's Environment Diploma in May 2006, and guests can try fruit and veg grown on site in the restaurant. vastsverige.com Tanum Rock Carvings In the north of Bohuslän, the area around the locality of Tanumshede has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to the large collection of 'petroglyphs' or rock carvings that date back to the Bronze Age. These fascinating carvings are believed to have been created at around 1700 - 500 BC, stretching along some 25km of coastline. Scandinavian Bronze Age people were sophisticated craftsmen and competent travellers by water, with many of the carvings depicting boats and fishermen as well as numerous animals and weapons. They have been interpreted as primitive symbolic art with specific motifs and carefully planned positioning. As such, the carvings offer a great insight into the social and religious life of the Bronze Age people. vastsverige.com Karlsborgs Fortress With a circumference of 5km, this awe-inspiring fortress is one of Europe's largest built structures. Originally created to house the Swedish parliament, the crown jewels, the royal family and the country's gold reserves in the event of war, this magnificent building is deservedly popular throughout the year. Visitors can join one of the guided tours, which starts with a film on life in the fortress in the late 19th-century; you'll then explore the underground network of tunnels below and get a fascinating insight into the role of the fortress throughout the past two centuries. Definitely worth the detour. Läckö Slott The magnificent baroque castle with its fairytale splendour of turrets and domes lies on the edge of Lake Vânern, Sweden's largest lake. There are beautiful gardens to roam, including herb and kitchen gardens, and wildflower gardens. There are various places to eat, such as the restaurant which uses vegetables from the garden and fish caught in the lake, and a lovely café on the embankment with homebaked bread. The castle hosts a series of fascinating exhibitions throughout the year, as well as opera evenings in the beautiful courtyard. Plenty to keep the children entertained too, from puzzles and trails to puppet theatre. lackoslott.se Carlsten's Fortress This impressive stone fortress on Marstrand Island was originally built by King Carl X of Sweden in 1658 to defend the newly acquired province of Bohuslän from invaders. The dramatic history of the fort is perhaps best experienced with the help of an expert guide, while those that conquer the steps up to the top of the tower will be rewarded with with truly stunning views out over the entire Marstrand archipelago. During the traditional fort festival, life in the 1700s is colourfully recontructed, complete with prisoners, soldiers and firing cannons. A range of re-enactments, conferences and historical meals are arranged at the fort throughout the year. Nordiska Akvarellmuseet Jutting out over the water on a rocky outpost, the long, sleek, award-winning Nordic Watercolour Museum houses an impressive collection of world-class art from across the Nordic countries. The venue also holds courses in watercolour painting, as well as hosting children’s workshops, art lectures, music concerts and guided tours. Four studios across the water are available to rent overnight. There’s a gourmet café and restaurant specialising in fish dishes, and an interesting, well-stocked museum shop. Take a bracing dip outside, paint in one of the open workshops, enjoy a concert: this is definitely an art museum with a difference. akvarellmuseet.org Glasets Hus Founded in 1740, Glasets Hus is Sweden’s oldest glassworks, producing over 1.5 million glass bottles daily. Although best known for the production of the iconic Absolute Vodka bottles, which accounts for 95% of glass produced, the glassworks also oversees screen printing, etching and glass painting. In 2012, it opened its doors to the public, allowing visitors the opportunity to delve into four centuries of the glassworks’ history, as well as view exhibitions by local and national artists. You can even try your hand at glassblowing in the workshops. Round the visit off with a coffee in the beautiful winter garden. glasetshuslimmared.se Havets Hus Watch congers swim overhead in the 140,000 litre tunnel aquarium, get up close and personal to starfish and crabs in the touch pool, learn about the different sea beds and the sorts of creatures that live down below. There are over 100 species in Havets Hus, from the colourful Cuckoo Wrasse to the endangered lesser spotted dogfish, all of which you will find in the Skagerrak and Kattegak Seas outside the aquarium. There’s a daily seal safari departing from Lysekil, as well as guided tours, an underwater safari, and a great gift shop where you can pick up a memento of your visit. havetshus.se Gothenburg Botanical Garden Home to one of the finest collections of wild Japanese plants, and widely regarded as the most beautiful public gardens in Sweden, Gothenburg Botanical Gardens comprises 175 hectares of wild and cultivated gardens, including rock and bamboo gardens, rhododendron gardens, herb gardens, woods, a Japanese glade and a nature reserve, as well as greenhouses filled to the brim with tropical plant species, including 1,500 orchids. You can easily lose a day wandering round the various areas, and there are trails and puzzles to keep the children amused, as well as a shop and a small garden centre. botaniska.se Kosters Gardens The old fish farm has been completely transformed into a series of orgnically-run gardens – produce from the land goes straight to the restaurant and café on site, where head chef Anna uses the seasonal ingredients to whip up fantastic dishes, from freshly-baked bread and cakes to simple lunches and delicious dinners. The old sheds are now a clutch of intriguing shops and workshops: visitors can stock up on garden goodies in the farm shop, such as homemade jams, eggs, as well as gardening tools, art and pottery, hammocks and other garden items. Pop by for a wander round the gardens and a lesson in permaculture: the dedicated team will happily share their gardening tips with visitors. kosterstradgardar.se

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to West Sweden we've picked out a selection of places to stay. On top of a rich and varied natural landscape, West Sweden has a great number of eco-friendly accommodations to choose from, suiting all tastes and budgets. With dense woodland, rugged coastline and deserted islands in equal measure, it is no wonder West Sweden is home to such a wide variety of eco-accommodations. At one end you'll find the most luxurious of hotels, one of which even offers its own floating sauna. At the other, a collection of homely B&Bs rustle up organic breakfasts to enjoy while looking out over lakes and archipelagos. Finally, our selection of fantastic treehouses offer all the luxuries of a hotel combined with lots of natural light and a bird’s-eye-view of the world. Read on to find out which of our accommodations best suits you. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to West Sweden: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places to stay in West Sweden Slussens Pensionat Music venue, charming hotel, award-winning organic restaurant. Slussens Pensionat wears many hats. Between the months of May and August, performers big and small descend upon the venue, creating a, vibrant midsummer festival feel to this lively place. There are various packages to chose from, ranging from spa weekends to ‘slow stay’ weekends which includes kayaking and cycling, to coast to coast cycling holidays. Whichever package you opt for you’ll be treated to wonderful overnight accommodation and fabulous organic food throughout your stay. An exciting, alternative venue to soak up the magic of some of Sweden's best musicians. slussenspensionat.se Salt and Sill Hotel Sweden's first floating hotel. That's right - bobbing gently beside the harbour of a small fishing community on the herring island of Klädesholmen, this ingenious hotel offers 22 and one suite (complete with private roof-top jacuzzi), all of which boast their own outdoor seating areas that offer fantastic views out over the archipelago. Each room has been given a simple, stylish interior using locally sourced materials, while the award-winning restaurant is renowned for serving some of the freshest fish dishes around. The hotel also offers complementary bikes for guests looking to explore the surrounding area, but you must also make sure to take a trip on the hotel's floating sauna and spend the day alternating between the sauna itself and swimming in the cool sea water. saltosill.se Storåns Pensionat Schoolhouse, orphanage, home to the famous English Composer Howard Blake, this building has certainly had a colourful past. These days, the pretty cream-painted house offers delicious seasonal food in its restaurant and café and six homely B&B rooms upstairs. The house is surrounded by an old-fashioned garden dotted with tables and chairs and, beyond, open fields and forests which beg exploration by foot, bike or horse. While away an afternoon with a rod down by the lake, hunt for mushrooms or berries in the woods in season, go canoeing or hiking: you’re spoilt for choice for things to do and the friendly owners will point you in the right direction if you’re stuck for ideas. storanspensionat.se Lekanders Bär och Boende On a rocky outcrop and surrounded by strawberry fields, this farm has been in Mats’ family since the 17th century. The old stables now house seven double rooms (two with bunks for families), each leading onto a patio with views over the fields and out towards the wooded hills; there are also two 2-bed flats if you prefer to self-cater. Come here to get involved in the intriguing range of activities: set off at first light on a nature safari, where you’ll eat breakfast in a hut in the woods! Or give willow plaiting or candle making a go. The sea’s only 3km away, too. lekander.nu Resö Gamla Skola The little rocky outcrop of Resö, which is just 61 hectares in size, is a thriving fishing community and is part of Sweden’s only marine national park, Kosterhavet. Built in the 1920’s, the pale yellow schoolhouse has been recently refurbished and offers charming accommodation, either as B&B, self-catering or for hire for corporate events. Alternatively, you can hire the whole house for your own family gathering or event. Breakfast is a feast of local goodies, and there’s a lovely restaurant at the other end of the harbour for evenings out. Come here to do as much or as little as you like: swim, cycle (there are bikes to borrow), take the small boat out on the water. Or kick back with a book in the beautiful gardens. resogamlaskola.se Hajstorp Slusscafé & Vandrarhem Passionate potter Marianna has transformed this old smithy on the Gota Canal into a charming little B&B. The low slung building comprises four surprisingly light and airy double rooms, each with pretty floral wallpaper and good beds; alternatively you can opt for bunk accommodation in the cottages. Breakfast is enjoyed in the lock keeper’s cottage, where freshly-baked pastries arrive each morning from the bakery down the road. There’s plenty to do in the area: take a dip in the canal (it’s clean!), try your hand at throwing a pot at Marianne’s workshop, ply the canal in a boat or explore the towpaths on foot or by bike. hajstorp.com Pensionat Prästgården Töreboda Brother and sister team Urban and Yvonne have breathed new life into the old vicarage, built in 1910, in the heart of Töreboda. Ten beautifully furnished bedrooms are serene and calm: white-painted bedsteads, original polished floorboards, floaty floor to ceiling curtains frame large windows where views roll down over the lovely gardens; bathrooms sparkle. You’ll eat well in the cosy restaurant – the owners have extensive catering experience between them – and you’re spoilt for choice for things to do: hire bikes and potter along the canal, pootle up the canal in a boat, trek into the Tiveden Forests. Time your visit with the town’s lively festival in July for midsummer music and entertainment. prastgarden.nu Herrtorps Qvarn There’s little here to disturb the peace except the rhythmic trickle of running water and the gentle hum of wildlife. The neat rooms, each with a well-equipped kitchen, have views over the stream. You’ll be treated to fabulous regional seasonal food, and the gardens are a joy to explore, with little bridges crisscrossing the water, wooded areas, herb gardens and colourful floral displays at every turn. Make the most of the location and take out a canoe for the day; Lake Hornborgo is 6km upstream. Or take a rod to the water and fish for trout. A captivating oasis in one of West Sweden’s oldest cultural spots. herrtorpsqvarn.se Nästegårdens B&B This cosy little B&B has only recently been renovated using traditional craftsmanship and materials. The owners have created an 18th Century aesthetic complete with handmade wallpapers, antique linen, natural paints and hand-blown window panes. The two guest bedrooms are comfortable and airy, while the kitchen boasts an old Husqvarna wood burning stove. The surrounding area is particularly stunning, and has been described as one of the most beautiful and well-preserved cultural landscapes in Sweden. Just north of the house is Hornborga lake, where, each year, thousands of 'dancing' cranes come to perform a courtship dance. nastegarden.se Pensionat Styrsö Skäret You'll find Styrsö Skäret Guest House on the beautiful Styrsö Island, only half an hour's boat ride from Salthomen in Gothenburg. Each of the thirteen guestrooms is individually decorated, while guests can choose to have either a sea view or a room that overlooks the garden.The guesthouse offers a sumptuous buffet breakfast, as well as a number of dishes prepared using veg from their garden and a whole variety of local, organic produce. As you might expect from an accommodation with such a fantastic location, there's a whole range of walking routes right on your doorstep. There's also the chance to fish, sail and kayak nearby. pensionatskaret.se Tingvall B&B Tingvall's simple Scandinavian design acts to complement the hotel's natural environment, and the building itself is impressively eco-minded - they source most of their electricity from solar panels and wood turbines, while water is treated using a greywater purification system. Breakfast is prepared using local ingredients and fresh produce from the garden and greenhouse, and there's also a cafe that serves up delicious homemade cakes. Three circular walking routes start right outside the house, plus you can canoe, hike, bike, fish and swim nearby. There's also the opportunity to visit the beautiful coastal fishing villages of Grebbestad and Fjällbacka. minto-tingvall.com Läckö Strand B&B With the beauty of Lake Vänern in front, and the dense forest behind, Läckö Strand B&B offers both B&B and hostel rooms within the ultimate natural setting. The B&B sections has double, single and twin rooms, all of which are comfortable and modern. The price of the B&B room includes a delicious organic buffet breakfast that includes homemade bread, local eggs and organic coffee. In high season, the breakfast is set up in the main building, in low season the owners will pop your breakfast into your fridge. Hostel rooms are either two-bed or four-bed and are found in separate houses, as well as a communal living room and terrace boasting fantastic views over Lake Vänern. There's a wealth of activities in the area, and guests can rent bikes, kayaks and canoes from the owners. lackostrand.se STF Lugnåsbergets Vandrarhem This hostel makes a great base for exploring the lakes, quarries and mills of the region. But if you’d rather stay put, the large garden and onsite activities will be enough to keep you happy for days. The 6-room hostel is run as sustainably as possible, particularly when it comes to food: their dinner baskets are packed with local, seasonal produce, such as traditional sausage, local honey and locally-smoked salmon. The large wooden veranda has views over the grazing cows in the nearby fields – a lovely spot to soak up the morning sun with a cup of coffee. If you’re looking for wildlife-watching, wander down to the lake to spot beavers. lugnasberget.se Utpost Hållö Just off Smögen on Sweden’s west coast lies the rocky little island (and nature reserve) of Hållö, with its pink granite rocks and crystal clear waters – perfect for swimming and watersports. Within touching distance of the water’s edge, this small but lively hostel, formed of a cluster of red wooden buildings, houses ten chalet-style rooms for two and four people; the café serves up plenty of homemade treats. Arrive in winter for deep snow, or watch the waves break on the shore in stormy weather. The reserve is teeming with wildlife throughout the year making this spot a nature lovers’ paradise. utposthallo.se Hafsten Swecamp Resort Once the holiday spot of Swedish kings, the area of Uddevalla, on Sweden’s west coast, is a beautiful place to wind up. If you’re looking for a family-friendly place where the kids can safely roam free and you can catch up on some much needed R&R, then the Hafsten Swecamp Resort, a stone’s throw from the beach, is hard to beat. The vast resort is packed with family-friendly accommodation, from tents and campers to caravans and cabins, and bursting with activities to keep the whole family entertained, from canoeing and horse riding to fishing and hiking. There’s also a wellness centre with spa and hot tubs. hafsten.se Backa Loge Those looking to escape modern day life on holiday will find comfort at this no-frills hostel on the banks of Lake Fegen. The old 17th-century house has recently been renovated but the creaking floorboards and old fireplaces are reminders of its heritage. The rooms (6 doubles, 1 single) are simple yet charming, and the kitchens look out over the lake which is brimming with wildlife year-round; sit back and watch the ospreys play over the water. At breakfast you’ll be treated to homemade bread, cakes and waffles served in the cosy café onsite. The hostel hosts events throughout the year. backaloge.se Stora Hotellet Bryggan, Fjällbacka, Sweden A fabulous collection of places to stay and places to eat on the picturesque jetty at Fjällbacka. A lovely hotel or self-catering apartment, plus café-bar, restaurant and bistros. Lots to do in the area, from boat trips to hiking and fishing. brygganfjallbacka.se

Here are a few of my photos from my visit to Cleveland Pools in Bath - the UK's oldest lido that re-opened earlier this week. Built in 1815 (in Jane Austen's lifetime), the site first opened as a river-fed pool and was used throughout the Victorian era. The halcyon days of the lido were in the 1970s, but competition from the indoor Bath Sports and Leisure Centre led to the closure of Cleveland Pools in 1984. Thanks to the efforts of three local people, Ann Dunlop (see photo below), Janice Dreisbach and Roger Houghton, the Cleveland Pools Trust (CPT) was formed in 2004 to rescue the pools from disrepair. The site has now been given a makeover thanks to a grant from the National Heritage Lottery (with support from the local council, Historic England and local people) and the work of lots of dedicated volunteers, ably led by Project Director Anna Baker. Dates will be announced shortly for cold water swimming over the winter before the first heated season begins next year. Cleveland Pools have done a fabulous job retaining the character of the place. For more info, see: clevelandpools.org.uk. Rhiannon Batten has written a lovely article in the Guardian capturing the spirit of the re-opening: ‘Today is a magic moment’: Bath’s 207-year-old lido reopens after four decades of neglect On Friday 30th September, The BBC's The One Show broadcast a piece about the opening, you can watch it here (just a few minute's into the show): https://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/m001clcy/the-one-show-30092022 All photos Copyright © Richard Hammond/Greentraveller