In all our articles, photographs and films we try to show characterful places, real people doing real things and insightful experiences that benefit biodiversity conservation and local communities. Here is a selection of our favourite experiences from the year, as chosen by our team of contributors Paul Bloomfield, Sarah Baxter, Rhiannon Batten, Harriet O'Brien, Mark Rowe, Ginny Light, Jini Reddy, Holly Rooke and Richard Hammond. Best rural accommodation One of Greentraveller's film unit stayed at Rural Casa Mas Garganta, Catalonia while producing a video about the Catalan Pyrenees: From the Summits to the Sea (which will be out in early 2018). It's a beautifully renovated 14th Century farmhouse on a hill overlooking the D'en Bas valley close to the Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park in the Catalan Pyrenees. Richard said: "It's about as homely as you could imagine, and in a ridiculously picturesque setting. The cosy fireplace was just what you wanted to come home to after a day's filming." Short clip showing the exterior and setting of Mas Garganta: Best group gathering In early December Rhiannon and family joined friends for a birthday celebration at Dartington Hall in Devon, and it was an ideal setting for an all-ages group. The accommodation was as comfortable and decadent as many a hotel. There were cosy private lounges for sitting and chatting plus a spectacular 14th Century Great Hall for a birthday supper and ceilidh. Children had the run of the site’s stunning gardens, and playground. And with a pub, cinema and various cafes on site, there were plenty of spaces for individual families and old friends to slip away to between whole-group activities. Plus Dartmoor on the doorstep for longer blustery walks. Best summer escape A review trip for Olive Magazine took Rhiannon to Levendis Estate on the Ionian island of Ithaca in the summer and she’s now dreaming of returning for a family holiday. Run by an Aussie-Greek couple, Spero and Marilyn Raftopulos - plus their (grown-up) children, Kate and Niko - this collection of four cottages plus swimming pool, is set on Spero’s family homestead. Cottage kitchens are pre-stocked with delicious Greek wine, olives and pistachios for that first holiday sundowner (plus peach juice, bread, tea, coffee, milk, homemade jams, local thyme honey, freshly laid eggs and own-recipe muesli for the first morning’s breakfast). The estate opens a coffee shop each morning, which also acts as a reception of sorts; whether you want to stock up on Levendis’ homegrown olives or local bread, order a ready meal or barbecue pack, borrow a coolbox or pick up a map of walks. For getting out to local villages, restaurants and beaches, you can pedal off on one of the estate’s bikes, or use the hire cars that all cottages come with (the only charge is for petrol) - beach towels and beach bags are left in the cars ready to go and sunhats and jelly shoes are there for the borrowing too. Most inspirational Eco Resort As part of the series 'Transforming Our World' we produced for WTTC (see earlier), we helped put together this short film (with destination footage by the incredible Shawn Heinrichs) about Misool - an eco resort in Raja Ampat, Indonesia, which won the Environment Award in this year's Tourism for Tomorrow Awards. Here's their story: Best sunrise Greentraveller's films crews spent much of the autumn and early winter filming the coast of England for the National Coastal Tourism Academy's England's Coast project (due in early 2018). These films capture landscape as well as visitor attractions, so the filming days were from dawn til dusk, and one of the best things about these trips are the early mornings at some of England's finest coastal locations. Richard's favourite was sunrise at Lulworth Cove in Dorset. Best unexpected wildness On a trip to Cyprus, Sarah Baxter got up early, headed away from the touristy beach resorts and hiked down the Avakas Gorge before anyone else arrived. Just her and the goats, stream-splashing and squeezing through an ever-narrowing rocky ravine. Spectacular. Best wildlife experience in UK Watching puffins flying in and out of their nests at Sumburgh head on Shetland was the most magical wildlife encounter of the year for Mark and his family. “You could watch them from a drystone wall, you were completely unobtrusive but you could even see their chests breathe in and out” says Mark. “The kids were utterly overawed by it.” Best café Castle Cary, in Somerset, made it firmly onto Rhiannon's local food map this year. Joining long-standing culinary businesses like Levant and Charlie Hill Butcher and Pie Maker are newcomers such as the Somerset Wine Company and Home - a veggie café run by Paul and Fiona Mattesini. “Home’s unpretentious, wholesome, modern cooking also happens to be delicious,” says Rhiannon. “I stopped off with my son and had a fabulous African peanut soup - smooth and rich with just a hint of chilli and a scattering of crunchy roast chickpeas - and the signature warm haloumi salad while my son approved so highly of his sponge cake with fresh cream and blackcurrant jam that it was gone before I’d managed to forage a single crumb”. Best Community-owned pub The Cat and Custard Pot is a shining example of community spirit, say Harriet O'Brien. It's a handsome old inn bought by four local families in 2014 in order to ensure it remained a proper, traditional facility for the village. "And so it is" says Harriet. "it’s an honest-to-goodness pub with a fine range of ales, a generous bar area, horse brasses, comfy chairs, log burner and excellent food sourced from the area and priced very reasonably. Set in the pretty Cotswold village of Shipton Moyne, the pub is close to Westonbirt and Highgrove and occasionally attracts A-list customers - who blend in with others enjoying this place of warmth, quality and pleasing simplicity." Most inspirational personal story Evalyn Sintoya Mayetu's journey is a remarkable one, says Richard. Against considerable odds, she managed to get herself an education in remote part of rural Kenya, learnt to be a safari spotter and eventually became a full qualified safari guide at Naboisho Camp in the Masai Mara. Greentraveller's film crew interviewed her as part of a series of films Greentraveller produced for the World Travel and Tourism Council called Transforming Our World. Here she tells her story: Most remote experience For Mark, a seasoned international travel writer, this was actually in the UK, walking around the lochs of South Uist in the late evening midsummer light. “At 10.30pm it was still light, there was no-one around and the outline of the South Uist mountains was diamond sharp. I walked past a picked-clean sheep’s skull, saw a hobby munching a dragonfly and swans motionless on Loch Druidibeg. South Uist is the edge of the UK and it really looked the part.” Best father and daughter experience Walking up Helvellyn via Striding Edge with his daughter Hannah (12) was Mark’s most exhilarating moment of the year. The loop from the village of Glenridding took 4.5 hours up and down and involved an impromptu bit of running along Striding Edge, the narrow ledge that leads from the Hole in the wall to the summit. “We didn’t plan it but we do a lot of running together and it kind of made sense” says Mark. Lives up to the hype Paul Bloomfield's friends had waxed lyrical about the Picos de Europa range in northern Spain, but a week-long hike from east to north-west was even better than he'd hoped: "nearly empty trails, craggy limestone peaks, dozens of soaring birds of prey, wildflowers galore, terrific blue cheeses and, in the Cares Gorge, one of the most spectacular canyon walks in Europe." Best Big Data initiative As part of the series 'Transforming Our World' we produced for WTTC (see earlier), we helped put together this short film about The Nature Conservancy's Mapping Ocean Wealth Project, which aims to put an economic value on coral reefs. It won the Innovation Award in this year's Tourism for Tomorrow Awards. Here's their story: Best bike ride for softies Via Verde from Horta de Sant Joan to Benifallet, Catalonia. Picasso loved Horta, but Paul Bloomfield couldn't wait to get out. Not that he thought there's anything wrong with this attractive, historic little town on the edge of Els Ports National Park, "but the bike path winding through the countryside below the town towards Tortosa was irresistable, snaking gently downhill for dozens of miles past rocky canyons, craggy outcrops and forested gorges. Easy, but epic." Best welcome At Easter Rhiannon Batten and family headed to Cauterets for a first family ski trip. Not only were they blessed with both snow and sunshine but their base, an apartment at the family-run Hotel Lion D’Or, couldn’t have been more comfortable, or welcoming. “We knew we were off to a good start when we arrived to find a jug of fresh lilacs, a straight-from-the-oven gingerbread loaf and a jar of homemade marmalade waiting for us in the kitchen,” says Rhiannon. Best discovery This summer Sarah traced some of the Stop Line Green, the defensive line erected in the 1940s in case the Germans invaded. She'd never heard of it before she started researching, but pieced together a section mere miles from her doorstep, seeking out the trenches and pillboxes that still exist – a great excuse for a long walk. Best hostel stay In 2017 Rhiannon Batten continued her rediscovery of the YHA (youth hostel association) with several stays. One of the most memorable, however, was a Father’s Day weekend trip to YHA Street, staying in a cosy family room and venturing out to swim in the local outdoor pool, Greenbank Pool, and eat from a hyper-locally sourced menu at Bocabar in nearby Glastonbury. Independent hostels also got a look-in from the Batten household this year, notably the Kyle Blue in Bristol (pictured below), a geothermally heated barge moored up near Cargo, the city’s growing container park restaurant enclave, and the must-visit SS Great Britain. The smartly refurbished boat has a custom-built kitchen, decent showers, a large lounge area (wifi is free) and a range of bedrooms, including doubles, dorms and family rooms. Best Winter Activity Holly discovered dog sledding in the Catalan Pyrenees, the perfect way to experience the beauty of the snowy mountains away from the bustle of ski resorts. “We were lucky enough to be the dogs first outing of the winter. After a whole summer of training, their excitement, and the excitement of the musher Marc, added an amazing energy to the experience.” Best small island escape Jini was charmed by the Hebridean island of Iona. "It’s small and magical, an ancient landscape where the veil between worlds feels thin. If you’re the reflective sort who loves to walk you’ll feel instantly at ease. There are hidden coves, white-sand beaches filled with tiny cowrie shells, bays full of serpentine stones, lush glens and wild, mysterious corners to explore, away from the day-trippers who, in season, throng the village. I loved it in the sunshine, and in the fierce rain and wind too. ‘I stayed at Torrasa, a B&B on a farm with sheep and a horse named ‘Dio’, towards the Machair, with views of neighbouring Erraid." Best refuge After a tough couple of days' trekking on the Tour du Mont Blanc (and a tough night not sleeping in a dormitory alongside a heavily snoring fellow hiker) Paul's arrival at the Auberge de la Nova was a delight: "friendly, neat, cute, beautiful views and terrific food. Few beers taste as glorious as my first pression sipped in the auberge garden after kicking off my boots in the late afternoon sun." Best Wildlife Watching Experience Abroad As part of Greentraveller's series of films for WTTC's Transforming Our World initiative, we filmed the work of Botswana Tourism Organisation in Makgadikgadi, Okavango Delta and Chobe. "Filming elephants swimming in a lake in Makgadikgadi was pretty special," says Richard, "but on our last night, while staying at Thobolo Bush Lodge near the border with Namibia, we saw over 500 elephants arrive at night to a watering hole. It was magical." Best pitstop “Whenever we’ve found ourselves doing a long UK drive as a family this year we have had reason to be thankful for the National Trust,” says Rhiannon. “Just when we’ve needed a loo break, a cup of tea and space for the children to run around and work off all that pent-up energy, a National Trust site has stepped in and saved the day. Highlights this year included a cup of tea and a look at the giant waterwheel at Quarry Bank in Cheshire, a climb of the tree hide and a meet-up with grandparents at Moseley Old Hall in Staffordshire and a rainy run around the garden followed by tea and scones in the wood-panelled tea room at Barrington Court in Somerset.” Best neighbourhood restaurant Brassica is the kind of restaurant you dream of finding in small towns around the UK and, in Beaminster, Rhiannon Batten’s dreams came true. In a light, bright, colourful and very stylish dining room, liberally dotted with posies of fresh flowers (co-owner Louise Chidgey was once senior buyer for The Conran Shop and knows her stuff – if you love the crockery you can buy it in the accompanying shop next door), chef and co-owner Cass Titcombe serves the kind of food that appears simple but takes great skill to pull off so well. “Start with a seasonal cocktail (blood orange mimosa) or mocktail (quince soda) then move on to roast squash with pecorino, black garlic and chestnuts or whole grilled seabass with fennel and anchovy aioli, making sure you save space for a slice of lemon, almond and polenta cake with vanilla ice cream” advises Rhiannon. Best coastal hiking loop Paul Blomfield's unexpected few hours on Exmoor on a quiet autumn Sunday morning yielded one of his best four hours' walking ever. Walking from Oare to County Gate, Countisbury Hill, Watersmeet and back: "peaceful wooded paths, dramatic views across the Bristol Channel and along the coast to Lynmouth, the babbling East Lyn River... gorgeous." Best Foodie Destination Beyond Barcelona and the coast, Paul and Richard both say the variety of Catalonia's landscapes, cuisines and activities is astonishing. Who knew that snails, simply grilled and served with garlicky aioli in Lleida (where they worship the mollusc with a huge festival each year) could be so delicious? Or that food all over the region is such high quality and great value? A great example is the fabulous Hotel 1935, Costa Brava. Best family holiday Mark and his family loved their trip to the Isles of Scilly. “It was like Cornwall in the 1950s, except with good food and updated accommodation” says Mark. “We kayaked around Bryher in the footsteps of Michael Morpurgo’s novel, Why the Whales Came, and snorkelled with seals. The highlight was sailing to the Bishop Rock lighthouse at the south-west extremity of the islands - it was a little choppy but dramatic and thrilling.” The one that got away Ginny missed out on a paddleboarding tour of the salt marshes on her trip to Ile de Ré in June, but hopes to return to this "island idyll" to do it: "The marshes put on an ever-changing spectacle of flora and fauna as well as being host to a recovering artisan/small scale oyster industry (which can now be sampled any time of the day or night thanks to the 24 hour vending machine installed by one of the oyster producers this year). Ile de Re is most famously explored by bike but a paddleboard tour of the marshes, or the Atlantic shores, would be an invigorating alternative." And finally.... Best interviewee clip Greentraveller's film unit was commissioned by the Travel Foundation to produce a series of videos about its work in Jamaica, Croatia and Cape Verde. The highlight of the Jamaica shoot, Richard says, was visiting the Rastafari Indigenous Village in the hills above Montego Bay. Here is a short clip with Queen B who leads tours around the village: A very happy 2018 from all of us at Greentraveller!

From skyrunning in the Dolomites, bodyboating in North Wales and cycling in southern England to travelling around Switzerland by train, staying in a lighthouse in Northern Ireland and yoga on an organic farm in Ibiza, here are some of our favourite experiences from 2016, as chosen by our team of contributors James Stewart, Rhiannon Batten, Paul Bloomfield, Sarah Baxter, Harriet O'Brien, Yvonne Gordon, Florence Fortman, Lucy Symons and Richard Hammond. Best mountain run Sky running in the Alta Badia valley in the Italian Dolomites does what it says on the tin, says Paul Bloomfield. Start running. Run up the nearest mountain, as close to the sky as you can. Run down again. Spectacular – and the perfect excuse for gorging on the amazing local cuisine. Best train journey Florence travelled on the Glacier Express from St Moritz to Zermatt in Switzerland in May as part of her Grand Train Tour of Switzerland. "It's such an epic journey – too many best bits to mention – but two particular highlights have to be crossing the awecome 6-arched, 213 ft-high Landwasser Viaduct, and climbing the Olberalp Pass, a pass so high (2,033m) it required a cogwheel train to push the carriages to the summit". Watch our short video of the Grand Train Tour of Switzerland: Best Discovery Germany is gloriously, prolifically wild. Despite being best known for its big, buzzing cities, it has over 22,000 protected areas, ranging from national parks to sites of community importance. Together these account for around 40% of German land and seas. Which makes it – surprisingly – one of the most protected countries in the world. As Sarah Baxter writes in her feature on Germany's protected areas, "There is also huge variety in these preserved places. Therapeutic mudflats, meandering rivers, artist-inspiring islands, awesome Alps, forests that seem plucked out of a fairytales – Germany’s protected areas are wonderfully diverse, and often come with a dash of the unexpected." Best local food experience On a trip to Naxos and the Small Cyclades, Florence visited a cheese-making farm on the south of the island where Stelios and his 700-strong herd of goats produce a tangy, award-winning Mizithra. Each goat has a different sounding bell and Stelios can recognise each individual one. As he opened the gate, the goats stampeded into the surrounding valleys – one of the most awesome sights of the trip. "My ears were ringing with the sound of 700 goat bells for the rest of the day!" Watch our video to Naxos and the Small Cyclades: Best wildlife experience In November and December thousands of seals congregate ashore on the east coast of England. Two of the best places to see them are at Horsey in Norfolk and Donna Nook in East Lincolnshire, where Richard and his film crew saw several thousand adult grey seals and pups on the beaches while filming for the National Coastal Tourism Academy. "It's the kind of mass wildlife spectacle that you'd expect in Africa or the Galapagos" says Richard, "yet it's right here on our doorstop". Best Public Art While public art can be commissioned with the best intentions, it can quickly become a somewhat rusty dissapointment if not given some TLC. Not so with the striking Scallop Shell on the beach between Aldeburgh and Thorpeness in Suffolk. It was conceived by Suffolk-born artist Maggi Hambling (and made by Aldeburgh craftsmen Sam and Dennis Pegg) as a tribute to Benjamin Britten who spent much of his life in Aldeburgh and nearby Snape. Best views Yvonne Gordon stayed St John's Point Lighthouse, Co Down for a travel feature for The Guardian. The 40m-high lighthouse has been working since 1844 and visitors can now stay in the former lightkeeper's cottages. As well as views over the open sea, the cottages also have views of Northern Ireland's beautiful Mourne Mountains across the bay. Best new adventure The surprise of the year for James Stewart was when he joined Wilderness Scotland on its first road-bike trip across the Scottish Highlands. The east to west route – Aberdeen to Applecross, via domed hills in the Cairngorms, Loch Ness then Loch Torridon -– had some tough ascents over 6 days and 262 miles (not least Bealach na Ba, the UK's own King of the Mountains ascent, on the final day) and involved some cycling in snow (of course), but there was wonderful company and lovely highlands accommodation: the immersion into scenery that expanded by the mile, the quiet satisfaction of a summit made. "By the end I almost got the point of Lycra, too", he adds. Best Cycle Ride Richard loved sampling some of the best cycle routes in southern England while filming for our video for Cycle Southern England. Highlights for Richard were the wooded sections of the Shipwrights Way and the Meon Valley Trail - a 10-mile flat trail along a disused rail track between Wickam and West Meon. If you've time, don't miss the wonderful Thomas Lord pub in West Meon - it became a regular stop for film crew who loved the home cooked sandwiches in the glorious garden. Best city break Lucy loved Lisbon. "The city of seven hills is a little gem," she says, "and rickety, rattly Tram 28 is the best way to get from the bottom of the city to the top (get your ticket on board)." Portugal owns more sea than land, so you can be assured of some of the freshest seafood you have ever eaten, and listen to some traditional, passionate Fado (Mariza is her favourite). Best green initiative James' most enjoyable green interview was with Martin Dorey, founder of #2minutebeachclean; an inspirational guy and project. He not only show how easy it is for each of us to tackle one of the biggest environmental issues of our era – marine rubbish – but how one person can make a difference. His one simple idea – we can all do our bit to clean the beach launched in 2013 – has now gone global; the #2minutecampaign Instagram page has posts from the UK, of course, but also throughout Europe North America – New York to Florida, Anchorage to California – and from Australia, New Zealand, Bali, Brazil, Peru even Papua New Guinea. Brilliant. Best British foodie experience On a trip to the Brecon Beacons, James discovered that as well as soul-stirring scenery and literary festivals, the Welsh borders also support the messianic farmers and single-ingredient obsessives who in turn supply traditional shops, hopeful food start-ups and brilliant young restaurateurs. It’s a virtuous circle; a thriving foodie culture that’s yet to be gussied up. >> Greentraveller's Guide to Brecon Beacons Best Family Holiday Richard and his family joined in with turtle conservation while staying at Azur Hotel in Cirali, Turkey. You can read about the trip in an article he wrote for Family Traveller magazine: Turtle Conservation in Turkey, which was part of the magazine's Ocean's Issue, which was shortlisted in this year's British Travel Media Awards. Best unexpected foodie delight On a trip to Wales earlier this year, Paul discovered the delights of Anglesey sea salt: not only did he find out why it's the best in the world (the secret is super-clean seawater filtered by mussels) but that it tastes amazing in chocolate! Best holiday moment A local pint with a show-stopping view at the Druidstone Hotel in Pembrokeshire, was her best Holiday moment, says Rhiannon. Sit out at the front looking over the bay or grab a table in the walled garden and let the children explore its treehouse. Best museum Grimsy Fishing Heritage Museum was Richard's favourite visitor attraction while spending the best part of a month filming on the east coast of England in November and December. "We (the film crew) were led round the museum by a former skipper of one of the old fishing trawlers and we were so engrossed in the tour we put down our equipment to listen to the captivating tales of life at sea. It was a harsh life that's fantastically well told and re-created at this fabulous museum", said Richard. Best coastal activity Whilst shooting a video in Wales, Florence leaped off the cliffs into the sea near Rhossili in the Gower. Having never tried coasteering before, when the opportunity came up she jumped – literally – at the chance. The water was quite choppy but the crew eventually found a sheltered spot where she could launch off. "I couldn't sit down for the rest of the day but it was an exhilarating experience," she said.  If you want to follow in Florence's (wet) footsteps, watch our video at the foot of this page. Also, check out Preseli Venture, which runs coasteering trips in Pembrokeshire. Best green gizmo Rhiannon loves her amazing electric bike. Not only has it made the school run a dream but she wouldn't be without it for trips around town now. You choose the power, from 0 (you pedal just like a normal bike) to 5 (still pedalling, but without the burn, as she tackles the steepest of Bath's hills) and away you go. No waiting for a bus or faffing with parking. Best food Yvonne Gordon tucked into fresh anchovy salad, tuna carpaccio and octopus cakes at Konoba Kod Marka at Šipanska Luka on Šipan island in the Elaphiti islands in Croatia, reached by a sailing boat. There's no menu - diners get a choice of meat or fish, and it's all local produce. Best heritage moment One of the stand-out moments for Sarah was walking to Stonehenge. Ditching the car, she followed the Great Stones way from Swindon to Salisbury, passing Wiltshire countryside infested with ancient stuff: barrows, mounds, defensive dykes, white horses, hill forts, standing stones. "One of the best moments", she says, "was approaching Stonehenge from Durrington Walls on foot, picking up the processional avenue and not encountering another tourist until I was standing right at the stones' modern-day fence." Best new watersport Is the Dee Valley the UK’s most active valley? Sarah Baxter thinks it might be. She enjoyed flinging herself down the Dee River in February on a glorified sun-lounger tbanks to Antony Fleming-Williams's new body-boating company, one of several small, passionately-run local businesses that are helping people explore the Clwydian Range & Dee Valley by board, bike, boat, kayak, horse and more. Best romantic project For the last three years, visitors and residents in Exmoor have been scribbling limericks and lines, sonnets and rhymes in tin poetry boxes left across Exmoor in the summer. A collection of these have been published in a book, The Exmoor Poetry Boxes – A Harvest of Wild Words available at all three of the Exmoor Visitor Centres at Dulverton, Dunster and Lynmouth. Best family-friendly YHAs Rhiannon's favourites are Dufton in Cumbria with a wendy house and treehouse in its garden (and lovely pub opposite – the Stag Inn) and YHA Dartmoor with its spectacular setting and access to outdoor swimming pools and country parks. Best eco island Lucy discovered that Ibiza is home to some imaginative eco solutions: try the wonderful Can Marti where you can explore the northern part of the white isle if you are bored of swimming in their natural pool, practicing yoga or lurking in the hammam. Sheila at Walking Ibiza runs regular guided foot tours (Wednesday and Friday) of the lesser known corners of the Island for residents and visitors. Best Glamping Experience Richard loved his first Featherdown Farm holiday at East Shilvinghampton, Dorset. His review says: "Loved it! If you’re used to the traditional put-up-your-own-tent camping (like me), you’ll find Featherdown Farms an indulgence. It really is ‘luxury camping’ thanks to the comfy bed, duvet, running water and other well-thought out facilities. Though don’t forget you’re still under canvas and evenings by the fire can still be cool… it may be 'luxury' but you’re not staying in a hotel! If you’re looking for camping in comfort (especially welcome if it rains), these tents are marvellous, our boys loved the farm and facilities (especially the wheelbarrows required to transport luggage and wood) and the food was imaginative yet practical and delicious." Best heritage attraction Richard loved visiting the ceiling to floor roofed wooden and stone houses, underground rivers and fabulous traditional fare at Hotel Prvan Vrgorac Ethno Village while filming for the Travel Foundation in Croatia. Best car rental We were thrilled to be asked to promote the launch of Co-wheels on the Isle of Wight. The hybrid vehicles rented out by this award-winning social enterprise will be available at various key locations, transport hubs and visitor hotspots across the island, including Ryde, Cowes, Newport, Freshwater and Sandown. After joining the car club, members receive a smartcard, allowing them to book online and have keyless access the cars. The high specification hybrid and low emission cars can be booked for short periods – from half an hour - or for days at a time at discounted rates. Hire is from £4.50 per hour or £31.50 per day, plus a small mileage fee of 15p per mile. Best UK escape In the northern Cotswolds is the The Ebrington Arms. "A cosy-chic haven with real soul," says Harriet. It brews it own beer, hosts live music and offers dishes packed with local flavour. "Oh, and it’s in a particularly lovely area; off the beaten track yet easily accessible," she adds. If you want to visit the area, have a squizz at Greentraveller's Guide to the Cotswolds AONB. Best mystical experience On one warm summer evening, while hiking the 53-mile Great Stones Way between Barbury Castle south of Swindon and the hilltop castle-cathedral site at Old Sarum, Paul strolled back to his B&B from the pub near Avebury. The setting sun lit the curious manmade Silbury Hill, the ancient burial mound of West Kennet Long Barrow glowered from the ridge to the south, and a solitary roe deer skipped away through the cornfield alongside the path. Best pop-up place Rhiannon loves the fresh-from-the-garden food with heaps of imagination but no silly fripperies at Horto, a pop-up restaurant (now going permanent) at Rudding Park hotel in Yorkshire. The focus is on the property’s kitchen garden home to 100-plus herbs, flowers, fruits and veg. Rhiannon's favourite dish was Whitby crab with broad beans, a pea sorbet, buttermilk and horseradish granita, pea water and chive flowers. Yum! Best hike With 50 lakes and a land which is two thirds covered by mountains, Macedonia is a hiker's paradise and Yvonne Gordon loved the hike to Treskavec Monastery on Mount Zlatovrv, 8 km north of Prilep. Located at 1,420m above sea level, the monastery is home to just one resident monk and has frescoes dating back to the 15th century. Best rural-chic delight Harriet loves the wonderfully refurbed Plough at Kelmscott on the eastern fringes of the Cotswolds, with upcycled furnishings (such as a gym horse used as a bench) and a small (and beautiful) menu based on local produce. It’s just down the road from William Morris’s Kelmscott Manor. As a salute to last year's initiative, we continue our Best cheese experience Yvonne Gordon's highlight was watching Rikardu Zammit of Ta’ Rikardu restaurant in the old Citadel in Victoria, Gozo, make Ġbejniet cheeselets in his cheese-making room in an ancient fortress in the Citadel – and then tasting the cheese afterwards for lunch. She wrote about in her Greentraveller blog. And finally... Best national tourism campaign We loved Visit Wales' #FindYourEpic campaign to inspire adventure travel in Wales, though we declare that we contributed our bit to this initiative, producing an online guide and video to mini adventures in its 8 protected landscapes: A very happy 2017 from all of us at Greentraveller!

From hiking Glyndŵr's Way and witnessing Northumberland's Dark Skies to transporting beer to Brittany, swimming in the Aegean and mountain biking in the Sierra Nevada, here are some of our favourite experiences from 2015, as chosen by our team of contributors James Stewart, Rhiannon Batten, Sian Lewis, Paul Bloomfield, Harriet O'Brien, David Atkinson, Florence Fortman, Liz Granirer, Lucy Symons, Yvonne Gordon and Richard Hammond. Best family holiday Rhiannon's favourite family holiday this year was swimming with turtles (and watching their baby siblings hatch) in Cirali, Turkey. "A lovely low-key village right on a beautiful beach, backed by pomegranate groves and pine-peppered mountains and full of lovely family-owned businesses, from Hotel Azur to Hayriye’s restaurant, a shady flower and cushion-strewn cafe serving delicious salads and traditional Turkish mezzes made with produce grown on the owner's farm". Prettiest hotel: Liz Granirer loved Hôtel Les Orangeries, in Lussac-les-Château, just south of Poitiers, France. "Verdigris window trim and doors, terracotta floor tiles, repurposed farm buildings, French doors onto impossibly perfect gardens... The sort of place where, somehow, they even know how to make breakfast look beautiful". Best morning video shoot location Okay so it's not exactly an unknown location, but filming at Stonehenge (and Avebury) at dawn was one of the highlights of the year for our film crew. We produced two videos this year about how to reach these iconic mystical attractions by public transport. Best wildlife-watching experiences In late summer, Jo visited the Northumberland Coast Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and boarded a boat to the Farne Islands and had some fantastic views of some of the islands' inhabitants, including puffins, guillemots and seals. Read her full article: Wildlife watching on the Farne Islands, Northumberland Coast In late November, Lucy visited Gwel an Mor where she went on her best wildlife experience; nearly three hours of wandering through local fields and woods at the coastal location of Portreath in Cornwall with enthusiast and biologist Ranger Gary whose passion extends beyond the indigenous furry creatures to championing the local ants. Fly Chunk the Owl, charm the snakes and feed the rescue foxes. £12 well spent! Best hike Undertaking a couple of days' taster walking the Glyndŵr's Way around Machynlleth, starting from the truly remote Star Inn at Dylife and staying at the charming self-catering cottage Yr Hen Stablau (a converted stable), revealed the green beauty of this patch of mid-Wales, passing through the Dyfi Biosphere Reserve. Red kites soar overhead; serene, mirror-like lakes glimmer in the sun; trails wind through moors, down into verdant combes and past isolated sheep farmsteads. Magical. Best ecolodge Wheatland Farm in Devon has long been a favourite of ours, so it was great to see it rewarded at the VisitEngland Awards where it won Gold for Sustainable Tourism. Above is a short video we made about it this summer. Best International Moment Liz Granirer's favourite moment of 2015 was a home-cooked dinner at Une Campagne en Provence, an agrotourism-based hotel and range of self-catering cottages in southern France with hosts, Claude (from Alsace) and Martina (from Germany), along with their teenage son (born in France, fluent in English, French, German and Spanish, learning Russian...), and fellow guests who came from Turkey and Italy, and us (British and American). "There was so much good feeling and jolliness around the table," says Liz,, "it was truly a night to remember". Best camping experience James's most unusual camping experience was cliff-camping with Gaia Adventures. Staying overnight on a portaledge, the flat frames that climbers use to tackle multiday ascent, hung from Angelsey's sea cliffs and dangling off the edge of the world on what looks like a cheap sunlounger, basically. James said it felt about as safe as abseiling yet was a genuinely escapist experience and is "a fantastic way to slow down, drop out of the world and immerse in beautiful views of sea and sky". Bonkers! Best beach-side taverna The Aegean island of Chios is known as the island of the senses, and the air itself smells like tasty things to eat, from fragrant tangerines and ripening tomatoes to the piney tang of mastic sap. For the best beachside tavernas try the Nostos Tavern in Lagada - where they serve up fresh, traditional and beautifully prepared dishes, from bright Greek salads to just-caught and salted sardines - try them with a glass of cloudy ouzo on the side. Our favourites, though, are the puddings - pastries sweetened with mastic liquor or a 'spoon sweet' - rich homemade marmalades eaten with Greek yoghurt. >> Greentraveller's Guide to Lesvos and Chios Best step-back-in-time accommodation Paul rated the Château de Chantore - a charming 18th-century mini-palace packed with period art and furnishings – breakfast coffee is poured from a silver-plated Napoleonic pot! Bernard and Iñaki, the antiques-loving pair who have restored the chateau, are incredibly welcoming and passionate about this place – perfect hosts. Sip cider made with apples from the château’s orchards, and breakfast on eggs from the Sebright hens pecking in the yard. And bed down with views of Mont St-Michel peeking through the trees Best bike rides The trail from the Puerto de la Ragua pass in Andalucia’s Sierra Nevada to the lovely whitewashed Alpujarran village of Mairena traverses boar-grubbed forests, rocks topped by big-horned ibex, and peaceful farmsteads watered by acequias – irrigation channels created by the moors a millennium ago, gets Paul Bloomfield's vote for best bike ride of the year. Best of all, he says, "with David – owner of lovely guesthouse Las Chimeneas – as a guide, you won't miss a thing. Second best, it’s downhill all the way…" In the summer, Yvonne Gordon cycled around the car-free islands in the southern Gothenburg Archipelago in West Sweden - exploring pretty harbours, swimming spots, lookout points and nature reserves on islands like Styrsö and Vrångö. There are more than 20 islands in the archipelago, with regular ferries between them. After a day of activities, retire back to your guesthouse for a supper of freshly-caught crayfish. Best teaching experience Richard spent a weekend in Cornwall at Watergate Bay Hotel with Swimlab where he was given a two-day tutorial on swimming technique by the experienced swimming professional teacher Saim Ahmed. "The teaching was first-class - I've been swimming for years, but learnt so much about how to improve my technique, thanks especially to the underwater filming and analysis that Salim provides. I'd recommend this course to anyone - from novice swimmer to those that think they have their technique nailed - bet they would learn something from Salim's expert eye", said Richard. Best tipple Paul Bloomfield's most unexpectedly tasty tipple was a pear aperitif from the farm near Domfront, Normandy. A blend of pear brandy mixed with pear juice, Paul said "it's the essence of rural Normandy in a glass (which just kept emptying and being mysteriously refilled...)". Sipped while gazing out at cow-grazed pear orchards, Paul says: "It was more delicious than I could have imagined." Best wine-tasting Hiking a section of the recently opened Moselsteig walking trail between Trier and Beilstein, Paul Bloomfield enjoyed gazing at the meandering river, Roman remains and fairytale castles lording it over towns including Bernkasel-Kues and Traben-Trabach. But mostly he enjoyed sampling the many – and he means many – vintages en route; with the valley sides almost uniformly blanketed with vines and a Weingut (winery) or Strausswirtschaften (seasonal pop-up wine bar) at literally every corner, there’s no escaping the Riesling here. Paul suggests this as the best wine-tasting experience especially the Spätlese, slightly sweet but incredibly refreshing wine made with late-harvested grapes. Join the route with self-guided walking specialist Inntravel. Best bits of the Cotswolds We invited Harriet O'Brien (the Telegraph's Cotswolds correspondent) to write our Greentraveller's Guide to the Cotswolds AONB - her favourite discoveries were The Chef's Dozen at Chipping Campden for exquisite, innovative cuisine with total commitment to local produce and to supporting suppliers in the immediate area. For more foodie heaven, she recommends trying the Jolly Nice Cafe and Farm Shop near Minchinhampton for the brilliant use of a once derelict petrol station, and for a really great selection of veg, meat and deli goods, she also suggests you stop by the Moreton-in-Marsh Show as it is a wonderful family event. "This is a charmingly old-fashioned country show complete with tractors, sheep shows and engaging pigs," she says. Also, don't miss the many pop up shows and events in 2016 to mark the 50th anniversary of the Cotswolds AONB. Best bits of Kent Harriet also wrote our Greentraveller's Guide to the Kent Downs staying on Brenley Farm B&B- on a working hop and apple farm, which she recommends as a bucolic, elegant place to stay, with delicious breakfasts from host Maggie Berry. While you are there, grab your bins and pop by Lydden Temple Ewell Reserve - a glorious stretch of countryside full of birds (sky larks, woodpeckers and more) and supporting a great variety of plants from orchids to wild herbs - and butterflies too, and visit Doddington Place Gardens - a magnificent blend of nature and nurture; the clipped yew hedges are amazing, the woodland garden magical. Jot it down in your diary for the month of April as a place to go to see the terrific displays of rhododendrons. Best Dark Skies experience In late summer, Jo visited the Northumberland National Park to experience the area's dark skies. "Once the clouds shifted, we began to notice things about the moon we’d never seen before. The white parts are more heavily cratered than the dark ‘seas’. Meteors hit evenly, Roy said, but the darker parts were once pools of lava which absorbed the shocks. As the rock hardened it formed ripples like cooling milk." Read the full article: Northumberland National Park's Dark Skies Best châteaux bike tour Our staff writer, Florence Fortnam, rates cycling the wonderful 'Châteaux à Vélo' in France - 400km of cycle lanes that wind through vineyards, lovely villages and stunning countryside linking some of the Loire's grandest châteaux, such as Chambord, Blois and Cheverny. She suggests that you take a well-earned dip in the crystal clear waters at the Baignade Naturelle du Grand Chambord after a day in the saddle exploring the Châteaux à Vélo cycle routes. Best home-from-home guesthouse David Atkinson says Geufron Hall is best home-from-home guesthouse. A B&B set on a widescreen-view hillside overlooking the vibrant North Walian town of Llangollen. Owner Beth Boyce served David a delicious breakfast in the morning with scrambled eggs from the hens wandering her flower-strewn garden. Best of all, it's just a short walk along the footpath to the ancient ruins on Castell Dins Bran. Best eco retreat Tyddyn Retreat outside Machynlleth in Mid Wales, is a delightfully tranquil, three-acre site with two cosy stone barn conversations, sleeping up to six people each, plus a tipi, a workshop for seminars, even has a secluded, sleep-in summerhouse. The owner, Romy Shovelton, arranges regular events at the retreat from reiki to writing retreats and helps to guide visitors along local sections of the Glyndwr's Way National Trail. Best al fresco festival feast We loved sampling local crab and oysters and learning how to forage for your dinner at the Food Rocks festival in Lyme Regis, Dorset, held just above the famous Cobb with the Jurassic Coast stretching off into the distance. Best breakfast Rhiannon Batten says her best breakfast was the mustardy, cheesey rarebit with buttered but crunchy greens at the surprisingly green Ham Yard Hotel in Soho and she really enjoyed seeing local Somerset brandy (pomona) on the wine list alongside the usual dessert wines at Cross Lane House on the fringes of Exmoor and the best cooking course she attended was a relaxed autumn tasting evening at The Talbot in Mells courtesy of Kitchen Table Cookery. Lots of local produce, a sociable - and prettily candlelit - atmosphere and food you'd actually want to cook again: hearty mushroom bourguignon made with local mushrooms, a gorgeous cardamom-laced yoghurt to use in place of cream and a fresh, green apple coleslaw. Yum! Best gluten-free grub Lucy Symons discovered that Lifton Farm Shop on the Cornwall/Devon borders had the most extraordinary selection of gluten free everything she has ever seen. Cheese, store cupboard items and hand crafted Cornish Pasties… The gigantic car park should prepare you for the heaving mass of punters all wandering the aisles open mouthed at the sheer volume of deliciousness under a single roof. The staff are all as excited as their customers, as they share their recommendations and enthusiasm for the farm produce. Best cheese experience Sian Lewis still dreams about the Swiss Cheese Train she discovered on her Grand Train Tour of Switzerland. Platform 5 of Montreux's pretty station is the starting point for what must be the tastiest mode of slow travel in Europe - the Cheese Train, which runs from December to April along Switzerland's famous, mountainous Golden Pass line in its own train carriage - an original from the Belle Epoque, complete with plush seats and gold-trimmed interiors. If you have a Swiss Travel Pass then a Cheese Train ticket is just 39CHF, which includes cheese and wine on the platform and a fondue lunch in a chalet in the mountain town of Chateaux-D'Oex. Read a summary of Sian's trip: Summary and Route Map of Greentraveller's Grand Tour of Switzerland and also a Storify summary of the social media coverage. Best sea swims Sian loved swimming off the beaches of Lesvos: The inviting, clear blue waters that hug the coast of Lesvos are impossible to resist says Sian: "Go swimming on the beachfront of gay-friendly Skala of Eressos, swim above the beautiful reef at Agios Isidoros beach or wait until nightfall to see if you can spot starry phosphorescence on the waves". Best gorge walk James Stewart says the Vikos Gorge is truly astonishing. However many times you see the world’s deepest gorge, it continues to reveal new perspectives of itself to wow you all over again. His favourite gorge experiences were the short walk to the Voidomatis Springs, the six-hour trek along its length (if only to have the place to yourself midway along), the viewpoint at Oxia and the Convent of Agia Paraskevi. Best accommodation in Greece James Stewart rated the accommodation in Zagori. Marry genuine Greek hospitality in a family B&B to the good looks of historic stone buildings and you have some wonderful accommodation in the picture-postcard villages of the Zagori. Who needs the coast when you have such fantastic stays as Kipi Suites, Papaevengelou, Aristi Mountain Retreat and Thoukididis Guest House... James says he’d return tomorrow. Best working holiday James Stewart says his best working holiday was when he took a booze cruise with a difference and joined Grayhound, a 108ft Cornish sailing lugger, to transport a cargo of beer to Brittany. It's not just pure escapism, he swears – he sailed as working crew, with his itinerary dictated by the whim of the winds – as part of a genuine cargo trip to provide green, low-carbon transport. James says: "Lovely owners, too!" Best bit of news in the autumn spending review The protection of over £350 million funding for public forests, National Parks and Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Here's our video of one such area: The Isle of Wight Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty: And finally... we were delighted that Greentraveller was awarded the Top Green Travel Blog in 2015 badge by Flipkey.

From tasting delicious Dorset-made chocolates and glimpsing Britain's rarest flower, to going behind the scenes at the International Sustainable Restaurant of the Year, enjoying astounding artistic performances on the Isle of Canna, and discovering new mountain bike trails at Glenlivet, here's a selection of our favourite experiences from 2014, as chosen by our team of contributors Paul Bloomfield, Sarah Barrell, Rhiannon Batten, Paul Miles, David Atkinson, Helen Voce, Rob McDaid and Beccy Jeeson, Yvonne Gordon and Richard Hammond. Best Slow Travel experience The longest and highest navigable aqueduct in Britain is in Wales. Cruising at 4mph across the Dee valley in a trough of water with just a few inches of iron between this ‘stream in the sky’ and the river, 126ft below, is thrilling. Paul Miles recommends taking a train to Chirk from where you can take bus 64 or 64a to Llangollen, taking 20 minutes. (The energetic can stride – or cycle – eight miles along the towpath and over the aqueduct.) From Llangollen, join a narrowboat trip along a twisty stretch of canal then across THE aqueduct, Pontcysyllte (Pont-cus-uth-teh). Book in advance. After the crossing, disembark and walk the remaining three miles along the towpath to Chirk station. Alternatively, return to Llangollen where there’s a steam railway  – Berwyn stationmaster’s house is a grade-II listed self-catering property - and horse-drawn narrowboat trips. Best cocktail A delicious Dirty Beets mix (house-infused beetroot vodka with apple syrup and crème de cassis: £6.50) that Rhiannon enjoyed before a fabulous meal of perfectly pan-fried plaice (£11.95) and loin of hare (£13.95) at Norse in Harrogate. Richard also visited Harrogate later in the year for the Inntravel Discovery Day and stayed at the excellent Acorn Lodge, a great place to stay (free wifi, honesty bar and fab breakfast including local Masham sausages) just a few minute's walk from the town's international conference centre. Best food discovery Flower and herb waters used in cooking to add subtle flavours to dishes at the wonderful Les Orangeries (for example, sage water added to apple sauce for a delicate herby hit), which was the winner of the International Sustainable Restaurant of the Year 2014. Rhiannon and Richard were lucky to be given a behind-the-scenes tour with Nicole, who has built up a huge outdoor kitchen garden where she grows herbs and flowers for the hotel's kitchen. Best Slow Travel Destination Richard loved the Alentejo region of southern Portugal. It's a huge area covering almost a third of the country, from the Rio Tejo to the northern area of the Algarve, and from the eastern border with Spain to the beaches of the Atlantic Ocean to the west (see map). He stayed at the Hotel Moura near the wonderful medieval walled town of Monsaraz. You can book the hotel through Alentejo specialist tour operator Sunvil. Richard is not the only one who thinks it's a great find; Isobel Choat wrote earlier this year in the Guardian: "Forget Ibiza. Forget the Riviera. In fact, forget the Med altogether. Portugal’s Alentejo region is lined with glorious beaches – but not many people seem to know about them". Richard tweeted this short vine video of the glorious swimming pool when he was there in November saying: "Now's a great time to be in the Alentejo, Portugal. 24 degrees today (over 30 last week)". Best Flower Discovery Professional photographer Diana Jarvis was lucky enough to get a glimpse of the rare Lady’s Slipper Orchid while on a photographic assignment for our Greentraveller's Guide to Arnside & Silverdale. She saw this beautiful orchid (Britain's rarest flower) at Gait Barrows National Nature Reserve - here you’ll find rare limestone-loving plants such as the rigid buckler fern, dark-red helleborine and limestone fern within the sheltered grykes, as well as an array of woodland birds, rare butterflies and wildflowers. Best Walk Walking the Herriot Way. September proved the ideal month for Helen Voce to tackle the 55 mile circular Herriot Way walk in the Yorkshire Dales. The 4 day route took in varied terrain - tin mines, rivers and waterfalls, heather topped moors peppered with black grouse and Swaledale Sheep and at its highest point, Great Shunner Fell. Stuart W. Grieg's guide book with detailed route maps, descriptions of landmarks (including a rusted tractor!) and excellent local knowledge was permanently at hand. Every narrow gated style was noted and climbed through diligently. It was a wonderful way to take in the Dales and meet fellow walkers on the Pennine Way and Coast to Coast which the Herriot Way intersects. A night in Keld luxury Yurts was an excellent reward for completing the Herriot Way. A half way point on the Coast to Coast and an overnight on the Herriot Way it caters marvelously for walkers; home made food is available all day including warm breakfast baguettes served in your Yurt, washing and overnight boot drying facilities. We didn't indulge in the Private Hot Tub but it is good to know it is there for next time! Best artistic performance Air falbh leis na h-eòin, Eilean Chanaigh/Away with the Birds, Isle of Canna turned out to be the perfect reason for Helen to explore in late-August the island of Canna, one of Scotland's small isles. Conceived and composed by Hanna Tuullikki and performed by a female vocal ensemble, Away with the Birds explores the mimesis of birds in Gaelic song. The performance was sited on the shore of the island's historic harbour and embraced the rising tide. The small, vibrant community of the National Trust for Scotland island welcomed cast, crew and audience members with tours of Canna House (gifted to NTS in 1981 by then owners John Lorne Campbell and Margaret Fay Shaw, renowned folklorists and ethnomusicologists and home to their extraordinary collection of Gaelic material), home made cakes before the performance, a beach BBQ at Café Canna and a fully stocked honesty shop featuring much local produce. Best low impact local tour company Sarah Barrell says Foot Trails walking tours "are a great way to get off the beaten track - and the oversubscribed national trails - with walking tours tailor-made for all ages and abilities". The couple that arrange these trips - owners Alison and David Howell have trail-beaten the routes themselves, often with their kids in tow. Each trip comes with walking notes rich with local stories and historical facts, maps, and reading material that outlines flora and fauna - plus accommodation is in independent hotels. It’s a great, low-impact way to explore England. Sarah's daughter, Ella (8) and Sarah loved the two-day hike that took in Bath’s hills and outlying hamlets, followed by a day in the city itself. It was Ella's first proper walk - she lasted six hours each day, at a sustained pace and now considers herself a “real hiker.” Result! Best Video Greentraveller's team loved the videos produced by the Wilderness Scotland this year. They get across the true essence of wilderness, be it walking, cycling, sailing, kayaking or canoeing. Wilderness Scotland is one of Greentraveller's founder members and this year, they were the winner of the World's Leading Green Tour Operators in the World Travel Awards. As one of their head guides Myles Farnbank explained, what they are trying to do is about "making green products seem normal rather than making normal products seem green". Here's their video on wilderness walking... enjoy! Best new cycle trail Helen loved the new Glenlivet mountaing biking trails: "The drive out to the purpose-built MTB trails on the Glenlivet Estate is worth it whatever your ability". The 9km Blue Trail is very family friendly offering young mountain bike enthusiasts a taster of trails to come. If your kids are more confident on an off road bike then quite a bit of the Red Trail is accessible, just be trail-savvy and listen out for speedier riders whizzing up behind you. The 6.5km single track downhill on the Red Trail is a great reward for getting to the top as are the spectacular views of Cairngorm. The Coffee Still Cafe at the end of the Trails has a menu of tasty home made cakes, tray bakes, soup, breakfast rolls, sweeties and ice cream (for adults and kids!). Best step-back-in-time experience Striding between the Bronze-Age burial cists and homesteads around dramatic Bellever Tor on Dartmoor – in this wild landscape it's easy to imagine life 4,000 years ago. Read Paul Bloomfield's article: Walking through the Bronze age on Dartmoor Best local pint Cleric's Cure at The Three Bridges pub in southern Shropshire - one of the pub's own microbrews. Best sausage rolls Made to a secret recipe and served oven-warm from The Hidden Hut cafe on Porthcurnick Beach in Cornwall (hiddenhut.co.uk). Just the thing after a swim in the sea. Best local cheese Paul Bloomfield recommends a specially matured Wyfe of Bath cheese from the Bath Soft Cheese Co in his home town of Bath - he says it's a bit firmer and stronger, but still nutty and rich. You can pop up to the creamery door at Park Farm in Kelston and pick one up - after a lovely country walk over the ancient Round Hill, and before a pint of Butcombe in the Old Crown! Best Chocolate Find Harriet O'Brien discovered Chococo while researching for our Greentraveller's Guide to Dorset. The company is run by husband and wife team Claire and Andy Burnet creating some of the best chocolates in Britain (they’ve won more than 40 top awards), all handmade using sustainably produced raw chocolate from Venezuala, Grenada and Madagascar, along with fresh cream from family-run Craig’s Dairy Farm at Osmington. The fillings are for the most part a terrific celebration of Dorset: Chococo creates a special chocolate for each month, such as Dorset Blue made with Blue Vinny cheese, and Black Garlic, a product from South West Garlic Farm near Bridport that has been causing waves of excitement in the food world. Chococo’s workshops are in Wareham, but the company started up in 2002 in Swanage, where it continues to run its main outlet, a shop and café that despite being tucked away down narrow lanes inevitably draws steady streams of people. Chococo is just one one a large number of local food outlets in Dorset that Harriet wrote about in her article on Dorset Food & Drink: "Wild boar salami, gooey goat cheese, black garlic, walnut and rosemary soda bread… From the Cranborne estate chalk lands of northern Dorset to the coastal riches of the south, over the last few years a real-food revolution has been gaining momentum across the county." Best train trip Paul Miles loved the train up from coastal Flam to Myrdal, Norway, where, even in summer he says you will see snow, and then cycling back down. The steep, twisty train ride up passes magical waterfalls and has views to ochre farmhouses. The free-wheel down is a white-knuckle ride through a waterfall-laced valley with a goat farm at the bottom where, if you stop, you have to watch the cute nannies don't nibble your brake cables. Best Garden David visited Elizabeth Gaskell’s House, the family home of the Cranford author, reopened to the public in October, restoring the Grade II-listed Regency villa "as if the family had just popped out and left the table set for dinner". As part of the refurbishment, a team restored also restored the gardens with popular plants and shrubs from the 19th century to reflect the way Gaskell was inspired to write by the view across the garden from her desk. Best Ferry Round Trip Plymouth to Roscoff and Le Havre to Portsmouth with Brittany Ferries. Highlights: a superb meal eaten on board before the ferry departed (compared with having to spend hours holed up on your car queueing to board), a calm overnight crossing (kids loved the cabin and slept through until breakfast), then arrival at Roscoff, a surprisingly charming town and surely one of the best arrival ports in Europe. The return journey was a calm, sunny, quick channel crossing; Richard tweeted: "no wonder ferry travel is booming". Best ferry-trip-with-a-view Yvonne Gordon loved a trip on the MV Glenachulish from Kylerhea on the Isle of Skye to Glenelg on the Scottish mainland. It's the last manually operated turntable ferry in Scotland, and one of the most hardworking crewmemebers is a sheepdog called Nak who takes charge of the ropes. Best India Summer Moment A sunny, summery walk around the National Trust's Fountains Abbey in Yorkshire in late autumn. Best city break in France by train Exploring Le Mans' Cité Plantagenet – the compact medieval centre, with timbered houses, fascinating carved door lintels and might cathedral (Paul Bloomfield recommends looking for the musical angels in the Chapel of the Virgin). Best Cycle Kit: Over the last 3 months, Rob and Becky have travelled across France, Spain and Morocco predominantly by bike, using public transport when necessary and hitchhiking occasionally. In November, Morocco saw the worst rain and floods it has had in 20 years that meant cycle touring and wild camping "was quite a challenge" but they say they are "eternally grateful" for their waterproof cycling jackets (Pearl Izumi Men's Select Barrier WxB and Women's Elite Barrier WxB) that "have kept us dry through the worst rain we have ever encountered... the jackets are lightweight, breathable and are such a good fit you don't feel like you're wearing a cycling jacket when you're off the bike and exploring the sights". Best view Paul Bloomfield loved the sweeping vista across the Mendip Hills to Glastonbury, while rambling in Somerset. This year, Visit Somerset launched a new series of downloadable wildlife walks that give information on walks to six hilltop views that provide far-reaching views of the Somerset levels, including the wonderful view of Brent Knoll and the Bristol Channel from Draycott Sleights Nature Reserve. And finally... a few things we're looking forward to in 2015: The extension of the Coleridge Way from Porlock to Lynmouth, adding a beautiful section (via Oare and lovely Watersmeet) to what's already a fantastic multi-day walk. Combine with a return to Porlock along the South-West Coast Path for a superb four- or five-day trip. The extension of the Norfolk Coast Path from Cromer to Sea Palling is also great news. >> coleridgeway.co.uk Confirmation of extra government funding to speed up opening of England Coast Path by 2020 - all 3,000 miles of coastline accessible to walkers!  >> ramblers.org.uk/what-we-do/news/2014/december/coastal-path-funding.aspx The successful five-year Great Crane Project is to reintroduce cranes to the Somerset Levels finishes in 2015. >> thegreatcraneproject.org.uk/project Improvements to the Eurostar services: New Eurostar service to Geneva, which means it is just 6 hours to Geneva for access to the Alps... the journey travels from London and Ashford to the centre of Lyon in just over four and a half hours, to Avignon in under six hours, and Marseille in just over six hours. Tickets for the new year-round route start at £89 return for Lyon and £99 return for Avignon and Marseille, with up to five services a week, depending on the time of year. New Direct Eurostar service from London to Lyon, Avignon and Marseille Eurostar's upgraded fleet that will boost seat numbers by 20%: ===== Posted by Richard Hammond A VERY HAPPY 2015 FROM ALL OF US AT GREENTRAVELLER

by Richard Hammond Pura Aventura, the specialist in holidays to Spain, Portugal, and Latin America, has announced it is carbon labelling all its trips. Crucially, the carbon labelling includes international flights. For instance, Pura Aventura’s 22-day Patagonia’s Carretera Austral road trip is calculated to generate 4.1 tonnes of carbon per person. This measurement calculates the travel between each point of the holiday, from the guest’s front door (or Brighton, where Pura Aventura is based, as reference) to the airport/port and all other journeys by road, air and sea throughout the trip, including international travel. Closer to home, Pura Aventura’s 7-night Picos de Europa Inn to Inn walking holiday in Spain produces 285kg of carbon. For each kilometre travelled, Pura Aventura carbon compensates by a mile (160%). Therefore, to compensate for the 4.1 tonnes produced for its Patagonia trip, Pura Aventura balances 6.5 tonnes per person, while for its Picos de Europa trip it balances 456kg. Pura Aventura’s carbon action is independently verified and administered by carbon consultancy C-Level and it carbon balances its operations in partnership with rural development project TakingRoot.org in Nicaragua, which creates new local employment opportunities, restores depleted ecosystems and helps mitigate climate change, whilst delivering lasting carbon sequestration that is independently monitored, certified and rewarded over a period of 10 years. Thomas Power, Pura Aventura’s CEO and Co-Founder, said: “Measuring and publishing the carbon produced on all holidays is crucial in helping us all understand the environmental impact of our travels. With this information, consumers can demand to see what action is being taken, empowering them to make more considered choices about their travels.” Pura Aventura is certified as a B Corp, a public and legally binding commitment to balance profit with people and the planet.

by Rhiannon Batten A few weeks ago I wrote a feature on new developments to look out for at the Youth Hostel Association. Now I'm turning my attention to the UK’s indies, many of which can be found via the Independent Hostels UK network. Among an eclectic range of independently run hostels, bunkhouses and camping barns across England, Wales and Scotland, here are some of the most significant new developments to check out over the coming months, from brand new hostels to stay at to hostels that are launching wellbeing courses and home-cooked readymeal services. New hostels Tapping into the European trend for boatels (floating hotels and hostels), the Kyle Blue opened in Bristol at the beginning of the year. A smartly reconfigured Dutch barge (apparently it once served as the green room for guests on Richard & Judy’s TV show at the Albert Dock), it’s now moored up in a peaceful spot on the city’s Wapping Wharf, handy for visits to the SS Great Britain and to Cargo, a collection of restaurants, cafes and street food stalls set in former shipping containers. Geothermally heated, inside there is a custom-built kitchen plus decent showers, a large lounge area (wifi is free) and a range of bedrooms, including doubles, dorms and family rooms. In Manchester’s Northern Quarter, the 200-bed Hilton Chambers branch of Hatter’s Hostel re-opened in February after a major refurbishment. Now featuring 15 private rooms (decorated with local artwork) and 20 dormitory rooms (each with en-suite bathrooms and memory foam mattresses), it also offers guests free breakfasts. The building is also home to a new all-day deli, diner and cocktail bar, West Corner, overseen by ex-Hawksmoor chef Romin Farahini, where the focus is on produce sourced from local suppliers including Barbakan Bakery, Out of the Blue fishmongers, Gornall’s Dairy, The Butcher’s Quarter and Heart & Graft coffee roasters. Further north still, a cluster of 18th-century buildings by the sea in Portsoy, a village on the Moray Firth, have been restored and turned into The Sail Loft bunkhouse. A former sail-maker’s loft, Georgian house and two cottages, the four-star hostel can sleep up to 25 (and store bikes for the same number), in a range of dorms and family rooms. It also has an open-plan kitchen and dining area and a lounge with a woodburner. Thoughtfully designed for families as well as independent travellers, high chairs, travel cots and toys and games can all be borrowed. For grown-ups there’s a barbecue area and, for an extra charge, you can have dip in a stylish wood-fired hot tub while stargazing (the Northern Lights have even, occasionally, been spotted from it). On Mull, Achaban House poshtel and bunkhouse is also new this year. Spread across a 19th-century manse and a neighbouring cottage, a mile from Fionnphort, its six en suite hostel rooms sleep 14 while the bunkhouse sleeps a further eight. Beds and bunks are dressed with white bedlinen and pretty woollen throws and, outside, there are six acres of grounds for children to let off steam in. Fionnphort is also handy for ferries to Iona and boat trips to Staffa and the Treshnish Isles. In Glencoe the iconic Kings House Hotel (currently undergoing a major overhaul) has recently opened a bunkhouse in its grounds. A sleek timber building, designed by Scottish architect, Ben Tindall, it is likely to become a popular stopping off point for walkers tackling the West Highland Way. In the country’s capital, Safestay Edinburgh is also within its first year of operation. Right in the heart of the city’s Old Town, this large (272-bed) hostel has been significantly renovated, having previously operated as the Smart City Hostel. While its bedrooms and dorm rooms are fairly basic all are en-suite and the reception area, with its exposed stone walls and wing-backed arm chairs, has a buzz about it. As well as hostel essentials like lockers and cycle racks, there’s also a bar and kitchen. Over in Northern Ireland, the Hutt Hostel re-opened earlier this year following a renovation and extension. Set right by the sea in Newcastle, a hub for adventure activity enthusiasts in Co. Down, it’s also a useful base for anyone planning to head out into the Mourne Mountains for hiking and biking. Back south, in the South Downs to be precise, the 20-bed South Downs Bunkhouse opened earlier this year. Converted from a beautiful old brick stable block on Houghton Farm, bunk rooms here are chic and bright with memory foam mattresses, thick plaid curtains and solid timber doors. A spin-off from the owners’ farm B&B business, this is run with the same hands-on care. And in Wales, Fishguard’s tiny Hamilton Lodge (it sleeps just nine) has just had a refurbishment, in its trademark homely style. Greener hostels Holidaying in the UK’s hostels is a pretty low-impact way to holiday but if you’re looking for accommodation with a deeper commitment to sustainability, over a quarter of the hostels and bunkhouses in the Independent Hostels UK network have a dedicated green ethos; many also offer discounts for guests arriving on foot, by bike or on public transport. Two to watch include The Old Brooder Bunkhouse, outside Lavenham in Sussex, and BB’s Bunkhouse on the north coast of Scotland. The Old Brooder is in its first year of operation and takes a whole-farm approach to conservation. Joiner-made oak beds, colourful kantha bedspreads and patterned kitchen floor tiles give the 20-bed, exclusive-use property character while energy is solar- and sustainable timber-powered, there are 20 bikes for guests to borrow and guests can help themselves to a herb garden. Groups can also sign up for eco-adventure activities and country skills courses. When BB's Bunkhouse, a new barn conversion, opens later this summer it will be the most northerly hostel on the Scottish mainland. In the village of East Mey, on the North Coast 500 route, its heating will be air-source and solar-powered.  Sleeping up to 10, the nightly rate will include a home-cooked, locally sourced breakfast while homemade veggie readymeals will also be available to buy. Other green hostel developments this year include those of Outdoor Alternative, in Anglesey, whose eco initiatives include the installation of an electric car and charging point, Badrallach Bothy, near Ullapool, which plans to start running nature-based wellbeing courses, and Helmsdale Hostel, in Sutherland, which is currently closed for the installation of renewable energy heating and water systems. Not-so-new new hostels Finally, with the announcement that the YHA has, this year, cut ties with some of its affiliate partners (notably rural camping barns), there is now a new crop of fully independent hostels joining the flock. Among them are the The Elenydd Wilderness Hostels, in the Cambrian Mountains; its 20-bed Dolgoch property is a pretty whitewashed farmhouse overlooking spectacular scenery, that’s completely off-grid. Hot water and lighting are solar-powered and heating is via a wood-burning stove. Just remember to book early. A boom is coming for hostel accommodation according to Keith Legge, the outgoing chief executive of the Scottish Youth Hostels Association. Legge recently declared that hostels have come full circle in the digital age. A growing number of guests “don’t want fluffy towels and TVs in their rooms but are more interested in authentic experiences, protecting the environment, in fitness, well-being and adventure”, he stated, even if what they are escaping from these days “is not factories and coal mines but their computer screens and smart devices.” More information: Independent Hostels UK

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to the Broads, Jackie King and Nic Forsyth pick out the options for a greener holiday among this magical waterland in the East of England. Photos: Diana Jarvis/Green Traveller The Broads is an atmospheric wilderness of 125 miles of lock-free rivers and lakes, of huge skies and far-off horizons. Unsurprisingly, it is regarded as Britain’s magical waterland. Three main rivers – the Yare, Waveney and Bure – flow into large expanses created by Middle Ages’ peat-digging. It’s the resultant lakes and rivers that inspire visitors and locals to hop on all kinds of vessels and explore the easily navigable waterways. Canoes and classic, engine-less Broads’ sailing boats are arguably the best way to explore the area, but we reckon that walkers and cyclists get a lot of bang for their buck, too, from trails, woodlands and river paths. The omnipresent watery stretches give off an ever-changing quality of light – as vivid as the brightest filter one moment, soft and silvery the next. And, always, the sound of birdsong, the spectacle of swooping harriers and the ethereal flutter of butterflies; at Hickling Broad from late May you may catch the Swallowtail, one of Britain’s largest butterflies. The Broads sits next to the Norfolk coastal AONB and runs into the neighbouring county of Suffolk, too. It’s an area that covers less than 1% of the country’s land area, yet is home to more than a quarter of species of rare wildlife, such as cuckoos and voles. Where to stay in the Broads We’ve picked an eclectic mix of the region’s accommodation, from self-catering in a windmill to the luxury of boutique hotels. Each makes a positive environmental difference, whether it’s painstaking sourcing of local produce by their chefs or composting, recycling or installing self-sustaining sources of power to reduce their carbon footprint. Wherever you stay from our selection you can be sure you will be in the company of those who care and who want to ensure that this beautiful place is here for you to enjoy for years to come. Our pick of the many self-catering cottages in the Broads is Cranmer Country Cottages whose award-winning self-catering converted barns are a great base from which to explore the Broads as well as the stunning north Norfolk coastline. Our reviewer Richard Hammond says: “I can't think of another five-star self-catering accommodation in the UK that is as green as Cranmer. There's under floor heating throughout the cottages, and hot water and space heating are supplemented by solar, wind power and a ground heat source pump. Cranmer is well worth the visit - particularly for families/groups who want modern facilities, and anyone that likes a decent-sized swimming pool." If you're looking for a luxury hotel, Strattons in the market town of Swaffham sets the gold eco standard for luxury hotels. It has been way ahead of the curve; Vanessa the owner has been paring back her ecological footprint for many years now at her Grade-II listed Queen Anne villa. Stylish, artistic and pleasingly wild here and there, Strattons has 14 rooms, canopied four-posters, open fires, free-standing baths and serves outstanding food. The Norfolk Mead Hotel also hits the boutique hotel notes, yet is warm and personal, too, run as it is by owners James and Anna and a close-knit team. There is an acre of landscaped gardens and a lake to explore, plus a spa service offering massages. Children and dogs are welcome. For B&B with great locally sourced farm produce for breakfast, head to Dairy Barns on the outskirts of Hickling village, within touching distance of the coast at Sea Palling. There are 6 lovely B&B rooms and 3 suites, plus two self-catering cottages on what remains a working farm. Dairy Barns form part of Lound Farm, a working family farm covering 360 acres of environmentally managed grazing marshes and arable land owned and run by Hannah and Ian Deane who have created a very relaxed atmosphere, a gentle smattering of luxury and plenty of flexibility. Farmhouse suppers available on request as are picnics. Super-fresh and stylish sums up Mill Farm Eco Barns – the Eco Barn sleeps 8 while the Hay Barn is just for 2 people. Owners Neil and Emma have a deep love for the area; Neil helps protect the Broads National Park and Emma is a committed environmentalist and local food champ. They have a burgeoning kitchen garden and their welcoming cakes are legendary apparently! The Eco Barn has a living space, twin room and wet room all on one floor with wide doorways so is suitable for wheelchair users, as is Hay Barn. If you're looking for a budget stay, then Deepdale Backpackers & Camping is a backpackers' hostel and campsite on the Norfolk Coast where you can choose from a range of self-catering accommodation: private ensuite rooms; tipis; yurts; shepherds huts; camping for tents and campervans; group hostel with dorm beds. It's open all year round, even during Christmas and New Year. The hostel and campsite are a great place just to chill out or be as active as you like. All the facilities you need are on the doorstep, including a cafe, information centre, supermarket, shops, walking and hiking, cycling, watersports and kiting. You can hire bikes from Deepdale Bike Hire or bring your own; enjoy watersports and kiting along the coast or pull on a pair of walking boots and go for a yomp. The Coasthopper frequent bus service runs to and from the front door so you can abandon your car and embrace the public transport confident that it will be reliable. For the full-on Broads experience, opt for a floating home from Boats at Richardsons. Established for over 60 years, and still a family-owned and -run firm, based in the small town of Stalham, Richardson’s has the largest fleet of motor cruisers on the Broads - for first timers as well as experienced boaties. It’s long been one of the more traditional boatyards, but is beginning to reinvent itself by investing in new craft with low-wash hulls and solar panels, and is a silver member of the Green Business Tourism Scheme. They have a vast array of boats, available at a mind-boggling range of prices, and are a great choice if you want to start your journey among some of the lesser-explored reaches of the Northern Broads. Watch the sun come up over the water with a cuppa and see it disappear with a beer. For a more traditional option, Boats at Hunter's Yard - a charity dedicated to preserving and celebrating the classic wooden Broads yachts and half-decker sailing boats - rents them by the day, week or more for you to stay afloat, or take a skippered sail to give you a taster. Where to eat in the Broads East Anglia is in the throes of a mini food revolution, and Norfolk is at the heart of it, with increasing numbers of places celebrating the best of the rich store of local produce the area has to offer, from locally caught fish and meat reared organically to the full breadth of the arable produce that defines the county’s landscape. The Broads has taken a little while to raise its reputation for great food and there have been some riverside pubs failing to live up to the magic of their settings. Things have changed, though, and there are fabulous places run by people not just with a passion for food and drink, but with a mission to bring the best of the local area to visitors. Who doesn’t love an excellent farm shop? Aisles filled with the best of Norfolk produce and the freshest fish will see you filling up your basket at Farm to Fork & Fish. Snaffle delicious items for your picnic hamper – how about freshly made scotch eggs, serrano ham, artisan bread and zingy chutneys for starters? Binham Blue, Norfolk Dapple and White Lady may catch your eye, too, if you’re planning a cheese board. Wroxham Barns is a mecca for all the family – the sort of place you’re delighted to find, especially if the weather is unkind… a bit of retail therapy for the adults, a junior farm, fun park, artists’ studios and a fresh airy restaurant serving meals throughout the day, including afternoon tea and Sunday roast. Or maybe the Farmyard Café works better if you’ve little ones in tow. They can create their own lunchbox from a range of dishes and eat al fresco. Another place that packs a big punch is The Galley in Horning, which is a delicatessen, café and gift shop rolled in to one in this charming village. Vegans are catered for with dishes such as beetroot falafel and smashed avocado or homemade coconut date and banana bars, or you can choose local cheeses and hams for a lunchtime sandwich. Bikes to borrow for outings, too. When it comes to fish restaurants there’s something reassuring about a chalkboard menu – it smacks of daily changing menus driven by the day’s catch. Perfect! At The Bure River Cottage Restaurant that’s just what you get. Find specials like Brancaster or Morston mussels, local crab and lobster and gently smoked salmon. Great service too, from staff who seem to genuinely like working here. Where to visit in the Broads Salhouse, Trinity (visit by boat only), Wheaften, Barton, Ranworth and Upton are just a few of the 63 Broads. Just 13 broads are fully open to navigation, with others having navigable channels. All Broads offer different experiences and it’s worth a little research ahead of time to see which fits your mood and, arguably, the weather! The largest and perhaps the prettiest is Hickling Broad in the upper reaches of the Thurne river. The Norfolk Wildlife Trust runs it and offers a good range of facilities to help you get the most of your day out. Children are well catered for at Bewilderwood, where a homespun fantasy world brings to life a series of books by a local author. And they will love the Bure Valley Railway, which runs steam and diesel engines. Fairhaven Water Gardens is the Broads writ-small: a pristine piece of wet woodland edging its very own stretch of water at South Walsham Broad. From here you can take a boat trip around the Broad or to St Benet’s Abbey. Woodforde Brewery is the place to go to experience the alchemy of mixing a few key ingredients to create something memorable… visit the tap room, the brewery, the café and their own pub, The Fur & Feather. Things to do in the Broads The Broads is the perfect environment for activities of all kinds and you can explore on the water, on foot or by bicycle. Even if you’re not permanently afloat you can get out on the water in numerous ways: hire a day boat or canoe, take a guided canoe tour of the region’s wildlife, or take a skippered wooden dinghy for a spot of sailing. We’ve listed lots of the best – and greenest – alternatives, but the Broads Authority also has lots of information on where to hire bikes, canoes and boats, and indeed where best to take them. You can also explore the Broads on foot by way of marked paths through designated nature reserves, plus the 35-mile Wherryman’s Way and Weaver’s Way pass through the region. Bushcraft, bankside tepees, snorkelling and guided canoe trails conjure up the Swallows & Amazons vibe offered by The CanoeMan. There are wildlife activities and trips offered throughout the year. A larger-scale guided experience is aboard the Broads Tours trips, where your glide through the waters is accompanied by refreshments and tannoy commentary. Getting to the Broads by public transport It’s easy to reach the Broads without a car: Norwich is on the main line from London Liverpool Street, which takes in Colchester and Ipswich, and also reachable direct from Peterborough, from where there are numerous connections to both the Midlands (Birmingham, Leicester) and the north west (Liverpool, Manchester). From Norwich there are two branch lines: the Wherry Line, which runs due east, through both the Northern and Southern Broads, from Norwich to Great Yarmouth and Lowestoft, taking in Acle, Brundall, Reedham and Berney Arms, and the Bittern Line, which heads up to Sheringham on Norfolk’s north coast, taking in Salhouse, Wroxham & Hoveton, North Walsham and Cromer. The most obvious place to head for is Wroxham & Hoveton, just fifteen minutes out of Norwich, which has the best onward transport options and many boatyards and facilities; it’s also a short bus or cycle ride from Horning and Ludham. Acle and Brundall are also good spots, or you could start your exploration of the Broads further south, in Lowestoft and Oulton Broad, or in nearby Beccles, reachable from Ipswich or Lowestoft, and gradually head north. Getting around the Broads By boat: really, this is the only way to see the Broads, if only because it is genuinely the only way to get to some of the best places. You’re in the perfect place for a spot of novice boating: you don’t need any experience, at least for a motor cruiser or canoe, and although the major centres are crowded in peak season, with a bit of planning and a sense of adventure it’s not usually hard to escape the crowds. There are boatyards all over, but the main centres are Wroxham, Horning, Ludham and Potter Heigham in the northern Broads, and Brundall, Reedham, Beccles and Lowestoft in the southern Broads. By bus: It’s possible, if not particularly recommended, to get around by bus once you’re here but, other than major services between Norwich and Great Yarmouth and Lowestoft, and from Norwich to Wroxham and up to North Walsham, frequencies are not good. Indeed, with the rivers providing the most direct routes anyway, buses are only really recommended for onward connections to the major centres, rather than as a way of touring. By bike: the Broads is a great place to see by bike - it is flat and cycling can be easily combined with a spot of boating. There could – and should – be more designated off-road cycle paths, however, the roads are often quiet enough for it not to matter too much. Among many bike hire outlets are Cippesby Hall, Broadland Bike hire at Bewilderwood, and the CanoeMan in Wroxham, well placed for heart of the northern Broads; Sea Palling Bike Hire over on the coast at Waxham Barn is another option and in the southern Broads you can hire bikes at the Waveney River Centre in Burgh St Peter. For more ideas of places to stay, local food and drink, visitor attractions and activities, see Green Traveller’s Guide to the Broads

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to the Northumberland Coast, Nicola Forsyth picks out some of the things to see and do along this Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, which spans 39 miles of coastline from Berwick-upon-Tweed in the north to the Coquet Estuary near Alnmouth. Marvel at the dramatic scenery; explore salt marshes and spot the numerous species of birds along this glorious stretch of coastline. The coast is also home to an isolated archipelago – the Farne Islands. While the cluster of 15-20 islands has no permanent human population, it does count numerous species of birds, including puffins, and a grey seal colony. Photos: Diana Jarvis/Green Traveller Where to stay The Northumberland Coast has a wide range of accommodation for all budgets, from caravan parks catering for families to luxury stays in traditionally decorated castles. Ramblers and ornithologists should head straight to the dunes of the north coast between the mainland and Lindisfarne for the best chances of spotting the 170 or so native bird species. One such place overlooking Holy Island is Fenham Farm, which offers seven independently accessed en-suite rooms, converted from original farm buildings. During winter bird spotters spy some of the six internationally important species of wildfowl and wading birds that reside in Lindisfarne Nature Reserve. The farm’s commitment to sustainability has earned it a Gold award from the Green Tourism Business Scheme. Heritage seekers can bed down in a 200 year old former Presbyterian church with a pulpit that watches over those communing at breakfast. St Cuthbert's House is a 5-star luxury B&B located in a 200 year old former church in the village of Seahouses on the coast, and near the Cheviot Hills. If you want to experience staying in a Medieval Castle then Langley Castle Hotel is for you. It has nine rooms within the Castle and another 18 within the grounds. It’s luxurious but traditional features include four-poster beds, oak-panelled walls and an open fire in the drawing room. The castle is perfectly located for wandering the woodlands and open meadows of the South Tyne valley. Game of Thrones fans can even have a themed wedding here! For a cosy cottage stay with evenings spent gazing into a campfire there's Laverock Law - in two acres of woodland and within a stone’s throw of the coast, castles and wildlife, you’ll have plenty to occupy yourself with if you don’t succumb to merely relaxing. You can also enroll on a bread-making or felt-making course. For something a little more unusual, Springhill Farm offers a number of wigwams, complete with firepits and velux windows for stargazing. If that doesn’t take your fancy, there’s always the old cowshed which has been transformed into a bunkhouse that sleeps 32 guests, or a number of cottages and hideaways to choose from and a campsite. The location is in close proximity to the beach, walking and cycling routes, Banburgh Castle and the Alnwick Garden. Where to eat It wouldn’t be right to be so close to the North Sea and not indulge in the local fruits of the sea - including fresh lobster, crab stotties and kippers and brown bread and butter. Unsurprisingly, many of the eateries proudly serve locally-sourced food. Sniff out a local fishing hub, such as Seahouses and Craster. If you visit the former be sure to stop by Swallowfish - a traditional smokery hidden above the harbour on South Street where you’ll witness producers using methods that date back 170 years to smoke their catch over oak sawdust. Legend has it this may be the birthplace of the smoked kipper. The kitchen has an array of seafood and seasonal shellfish, including homemade potted shrimp. One place to sample Craster kippers, crab stotties and award winning pies - along with a pint of real ale from its microbrewery - is The Ship Inn. Nestled between fishermen’s cottages in Low Newton, it has the feel of being in someone’s front room and sometimes plays host to live music. It gets busy at lunchtime so get there early. To try more local delicacies such as Border tart (rich fruit tart encrusted in pastry), singing hinnies (Northumbrian bannock) with jam and clotted cream or its signature homemade Lavender cake head to The Lavender Tea Rooms in the pretty village of Etal. A bit of a one stop shop, the cafe is also up a post office, general store and garden centre! Bookworms can combine their love of literature with a dose of caffeine and cake at Barter Books. Situated in a Victorian railway station designed by William Bell in 1887, its shelves are filled with secondhand books. The once forgotten room now houses the Station Buffet, cosy armchair and fire for you to enjoy your food while getting lost in a book. For dessert or a well earned pit stop try Doddington’s ice cream, which also has a few ‘locally flavoured’ ice creams including Newcastle Brown Ale, Alnwick Rum Truffle and Roman Britain. To stock up on local goodies before heading home, drop by Alnwick Farmers’ Market (the last Friday of each month). As well as artisanal food and drink - from game to homemade kiln bread - it also has a number of craft stalls selling vintage gifts and jewellery. Check if your visit coincides with one of the market’s events, including live music. Where to visit A paradise for boat trippers, ramblers, cyclists and bird spotters, the Northumberland coast is full of outdoors adventures. The Farne Islands is a must for animal lovers. Famous for its 37,000 pairs of puffins, jumplings (guillemot chicks) and arctic terns, it attracts many species of birds. It is also home to a large colony of Atlantic or Grey Seals. If you time your visit between autumn and winter you may witness pupping season, when more than 2,000 pups are born. One way to take in the coastal views while wildlife spotting is on a boat trip. Choose from a number of tour operators, including Golden Gate Farne Islands Boat Trips, which has a choice of five tours, taking in seabird and seal colonies as well as tours designed for ornithologists, photographers and local history enthusiasts. Serenity Boat Tours runs a sunset cruise, whale watching tour and a wildlife photography workshop with conservation photographer Alan Hewitt - with a 360º stable platform on board to help customers capture the perfect photo. The Shiel family have been guiding visitors around the Farne Islands since 1918 and today Billy Shiel's Farne Islands Tours runs a large choice of boat trips, taking in puffins on Staple Island, a cruise of Holy Island and whale and dolphin watching. For more local history of the waters, RNLI Grace Darling Museum, pays tribute to the life of 22-year-old Grace Darling, a lighthouse keeper’s daughter, who risked her life by rowing out to reach nine survivors of the wrecked SS Forfarshire in 1838. History buffs may want to visit one - or a number - of the local castles and pay homage to more turbulent times gone by. 16th Century Lindisfarne Castle was particularly vulnerable in its day, but has since been subjected to a refurbishment with natural materials to create a rustic, spartan space. Bamburgh Castle also took a battering from Viking raids, sieges and revolts before being restored to its former glory by Victorian industrialist Lord Armstrong (who also built nearby Cragside) can we link to Cragside in the Northumberland NP blog? Today you can wander the 14 public rooms, take in the 2,000 artefacts and scare yourself witness with (literally) haunting tales of ghostly goings on at the castle. Arguably the highlight of your trip, Dunstanburgh Castle, also boasts a number of grisly tales - allegedly including the decapitated ghost of Thomas Plantagenet, who was executed for treason in 1322. The castle was built on the remains of an Iron Age hill fort between 1313-1322, and as a result of fierce fighting, changed hands a number of times during the War of the Roses. To witness history brought to life through costumed guides, visit Alnwick Castle, Britain’s second largest inhabited castle, which dates back to the Norman period. Horticulturists will want to stop by The Alnwick Garden, which boasts 300 variations of English rose and the world’s largest Tai Haku Cherry Orchard within its 12 acres. As well as water sculptures that explore the effects of physics on water, there’s also a Poison Garden with more than 100 toxic plants such as deadly nightshade, foxglove, strychnine and hemlock. Things to do The North Sea coastline has something for waterbabies and land lovers alike. While cold, the waters are clear and teeming with marine life and ship wrecks for those willing to go a little deeper while adrenaline junkies can get their kicks surfing the waves in a kayak or wild swimming. On dry land, you can learn the history behind the landscapes on a geowalk with Northumbrian Earth. Combine your walk with wild swimming to Linhope Spout and explore the history of St Cuthbert’s Cave or book onto a mountain training or map and compass reading course with Footsteps Northumberland. For a guided tour of the 700 years of border history along Berwick’s Elizabethan walls, try Explore Northumberland which will also allow you a peek inside buildings not normally open to the public. For hiking tours on Holy Island, an important nature reserve, which is also the “cradle of Christianity” for pagan Northumbria, consider the selection of tours on offer at Holy Island Hikes. If you’d rather go solo, there’s 64 miles of coastal pathways awaiting your exploration running from Cresswell in the south up to Berwick in the north. Northumberland Coast Path takes in dramatic cliffs, sandy beaches, hidden coves, colourful fishing villages and ancient castles. The path is mostly well signposted, following bridleways and footpaths and can easily be divided into six day-long sections. Thrill seekers looking to surf in a kayak, rock climb, paddle the River Coquet or camp out on a 2-day adventure in the less-explored side of Kielder Water check out Adventure Northumberland. Water sports fans looking to learn to sail, kayak, canoe, windsurf, powerboat and build rafts can consider Coquet Shorebase Trust. Bird lovers may want to kayak to eider and shelduck duckling creches or take a guided tour to Coquet Island, a tiny RSPB reserve that’s home to 35,000 nesting terns, kittiwakes, fulmar, gulls and eider ducks in summer. Sovereign Diving will help you explore shipwrecks and search for conger eels, wolfish, spider crabs, brittle stars, sea urchins and sun stars as well as the local seal colony. For more ideas on where to stay, local food and drink, visitor attractions and activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to the Northumberland Coast

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to the North York Moors, Nicola Forsyth explores one of England’s largest heather moorlands, its woodlands, dales, valleys and great British coastline. Lose yourself in the Moors - before finding yourself tucking into world famous fish and chips in Whitby or learning about the lives of one or two classic writers who often visited this glorious National Park in the north of England. Photos: North York Moors National Park Authority Where to stay Choose from the stately comfort of country houses, period B&Bs nestled in bustling market towns, converted farm buildings and even novelty and themed accommodation. The quaint market town of Pickering makes for a good base, or there’s the castle-guarded Helmsley where you can discover the southern and western reaches. On the east coast you’ll find Boggle Hole, Ravenscar or Whitby or Danby to the North. If you do love to be beside the seaside, then head East to the popular seaside resorts of Scarborough or Whitby just a little further north of the North Sea coast. Whilst known for their classic British seaside town charm, you’ll find 4* comfort (and a spa) in Crown Spa Hotel. Perched on a cliff top overlooking South Bay beach, the listed period building has been awarded a Sustainable Tourism Award in the Enjoy England Awards for Excellence. Head further North towards Whitby and you’ll stumble across Raven Hall Country House Hotel, which sits 600 feet above sea level, overlooking Robin Hood's Bay. Whilst the main hotel is steeped in history - having been first built in 1774 - it has now has the more recent addition of eight Finnish-designed environmentally-friendly lodges. To combine your break with learning a new skill, Cober Hill Hotel in Cloughton specialises in creative holidays - including photography, lacemaking, jewelry making, painting and stained glass. If themed escapes are more your thing, and it’s been a lifelong dream to stay in a Wild West themed holiday park, then you’re in luck. Family friendly, Pinewood Holiday Park, less than two miles out of Scarborough, is the UK’s only - complete with tipis, wagons and cowboy camping shacks. Furnishings are simple so check in advance what you need to bring. If you’re of a more “Curiouser and curiouser” disposition, then look no further than the cliff top La Rosa in Whitby. A famed favourite of Lewis Carroll (its blue plaque confirms the tales), it will take you down the rabbit hole and into a world of kitsch antiques, all carefully collected from thrift stores and used to decorate each of its rooms in a unique style. Throw in views of the Harbour and Whitby Abbey and you’ll be grinning like the Cheshire cat. If you want award winning accommodation complete with a champagne bar, then 17 Burgate in Pickering is for you. It’s a renovated Georgian townhouse B&B with a cosy wood-burning stove, cruelty-free toiletries, homemade bread at breakfast, and just a few minutes stroll from the castle. When it comes to eco travel, how much more sustainable can you get than staying in a former train carriage? The Old Station in Pickering offers self catering stays in three formerly first class carriages, originally built in the late 1960s in Derby. Now renovated to offer all mod cons - and no less than 2-3 bedrooms each. To unwind and shut off, venture a little deeper inland into the Moors and hole up in Kale Pot Cottage. From the doorstep of this 18th Century barn you can easily join the North York Moors’ network of cycle and walking paths. Enjoy living as one with nature - and look out for badgers and foxes, which are frequently sighted on the three acres of land in which the cottage sits. Even further inland, the marketown of Helmsley is a good base for exploring the North York Moors National Park. The Carlton Lodge, a grand B&B perfectly located just inside the Park gives way to many long and short distance trails leading into the moors - making it a paradise for cyclists, walkers and star gazers. It’s well stocked with maps and guides, so no excuses for not booting up and heading out. Family and dog friendly visitors looking for a more back to basics style stay will be pleased to know there are five YHA hostels in the area - Boggle Hole, Whitby, Scarborough, Dalby Forest and Helmsley. Boggle Hole, which is mere steps from the beach near Robin Hood’s Bay, which recently added the Crow's Nest - an environmentally friendly building that can sleep 44 people, in addition to the 42 beds in the original building, the Old Mill. Where to eat The hills, fields and seas surrounding the Moors are home to an abundance of homegrown vegetables, rare-breed cattle, sheep, pigs, game, seafood and fish - so wherever you eat, you can be fairly certain your food is as local as it gets. And it would be almost criminal to leave Whitby without sampling its (freshly caught) fish and chips - arguably the best in the UK. All of the eateries listed in this guide, from pubs in slumbering hamlets and vintage tearooms to chic restaurants and country inns, take pride in their produce, many growing their own vegetables and salads in gardens and allotments – and the result is a distinctive array of flavours unique to the region. The Cleveland Tontine has it all - formal dining in the bisto and conservatory while more relaxed dining and lighter snacks are served in the lounge area or the Morning room - and private dining options, including the ‘snug’. They have strong relationships with local suppliers and can trace their produce from field to fork. For a “rustic gourmet bolthole” as it describes itself, head to the Star Inn in Harome, just outside Helmsley. Star by name and nature, the 14th Century inn has been awarded a Michelin star for its culinary creations. For truly decadent dining in a traditional pub setting, the Black Swan in Oldstead boasts a Michelin Star and three AA Rosettes. The seasonal and locally grown or foraged menu is the work of Chef Tommy Banks - Britain’s youngest Michelin-starred chef in 2013. The artistry doesn’t stop with the food - the coffee and most of the spirits, herbal teas and cocktails are unique to the pub, or feature herbs and botanicals from the garden. For a very intimate eating and drinking experience, Birch Hall Inn, just 10 miles south of Whitby is made up of two tiny bars - separated by a sweet shop - whose record attendance is 30 people, and two small dogs. The menu is simple - think pie, stotties and scones - but be sure to try its famous Beck Hole beer cake as you listen to folklore tales of a giant worm with the mouth of a dragon that was said to have lived in the nearby forests before being slain. If you crave a little after dinner entertainment, the New Inn & Cropton Brewery near Pickering has nightly live music and offers tours of its brewery which is conveniently located in its garden, so no excuses not to! The small and family-run pub has a separate dining room, village bar, conservatory and cosy coffee lounge. At the southern edge of the National Park, in the small village of Gillamoor, you’ll find the Royal Oak - a Grade-II-listed 17th-century inn serving up an a la carte menu of local produce, and many vegetarian options. There are eight bedrooms should you decide to stay a little longer. For lighter and on-the-go options, the Moors offers an array of quaint cafes, farm shops and bakeries steeped in tradition or with the addition of arts and crafts. Cedarbarn Farm Shop and Cafe is an eco-conscious husband and wife outfit offering locally sourced and reared food with its own butchery, shop, miniature railway and growing fields for customers to pick their own fruit. Walkers attempting the Coast to Coast Path and nature lovers marvelling at nearby Falling Foss waterfall should consider stopping at Falling Foss Tea Garden for a sandwich or cream tea. The seasonal cafe (check opening times) is nestled in the grounds of Midge Hall, a tiny cottage which lay abandoned for half a century, before being restored in 2008. Visitors with a sweet tooth may want to take a trip down memory lane at Suggitt’s Café and Shop. Originally as an ice cream shop in 1925, it now stocks a retro range of sweets and confectionery. Be warned - queues can become very long in the summer months. Ice cream lovers shouldn’t miss the opportunity to sample the array of flavours on offer at Ryeburn in Helmsley - twice voted best in the country. I mean, it’d be rude not to! The Black Cherry ice cream was recently named national winner and the Toffee and Fudge and Cookies and Cream previously won gold in the National Ice Cream awards. If these gastronomic delights tickle your tastebuds why not try your luck as a budding chef while you’re here? Arches Cookery School offers lessons from its chef Sarah Muir, who has been personal chef to a number of music’s greats (including Elton John, The Prodigy, Whitney Houston, George Michael and Bob Dylan to namerop a few…). A family-run affair, the school uses vegetables and herbs grown by Sarah’s mother. Put your new found skills to use once you return home - but be sure to stock up on your local favourites first at the weekly Friday morning Wykeham Village Market, where you’ll find everything cheese, fresh or frozen game, handmade cookies to hand tied flowers and locally grown plants. Where to visit The Moors not only provides a natural playground - from its coastline to its expansive wilderness - but it has also nurtured the artistic talents of many painters, photographers, carvers and craftspeople, meaning there is much to see and experience during your stay. Starting with Byland Abbey, which was discovered in the 12th Century by Savigniac monks. The historic building, whose long history has seen it sacked by Robert the Bruce, devastated by the Black Death and surrendered to Henry VIII, was a blueprint for the ideal monastic architecture and the inspiration for the rose window at York Minster. To continue your history tour, consider visiting a castle or two. 900 year old Helmsley Castle is one of the region’s finest and most important, beginning life as a medieval fortress before becoming a Tudor mansion and then a Civil War stronghold. Meanwhile, Pickering Castle harks back to the days when the market town was a thriving strategic centre of 13th Century northern England - and was once a royal hunting lodge and home for medieval kings. To retrace the footsteps of ancient ancestors, embark on the mile long stretch of the Wheeldale Roman Road. Art lovers won’t be disappointed in the Moors. To view local masterpieces, or hone your own artistic talents, drop by Staithes Gallery & Art School where lessons often take place in the fresh sea air of the little fishing village. If you visit in September you may catch the Staithes Festival which celebrates its artistic history - starting with the 19th century Staithes Group of Artists to today. Whilst you’re here, why not make the most of the fishing village’s heritage and take a fishing or wildlife boat trip with Real Staithes. Families can get up close and personal with animals at Betton Farm before enjoying a picnic of freshly baked bread, cakes and snacks from the onsite cafe. Run by social enterprise, Basics Plus, it provides training and work opportunities for young people with learning difficulties – which you’ll be supporting with your visit. Things to do The diverse landscape of the area means you’ll be spoilt for choice when it comes to activities - and why not when there are so many tasty local dishes and specialty foods to reward yourself with afterwards. Inntravel offers a self-guided Yorkshire Gastronomic Walking holiday with exactly this in mind. Gone Mountain Biking in Pickering, offers a similar service for cyclists. To explore the moorland and forestry by horseback, Bilsdale Riding Centre has a wide selection of horses and ponies and treks for all abilities. For more independent travel, there’s a dizzying array of walking and cycling trails to tackle, from gentle day strolls to multi-day adventures. A walk around the 6,800-acre Conservation Area of Fylingdales Moor near Whitby may reward you with a glimpse of its rare wildlife. Managed by the Hawk and Owl Trust, the moorland is managed with environmentally sustainable techniques. Adrenaline junkies will be well catered for at Carlton Lodge Activity Centre in Thirsk. Popular with schools, scout groups, youth clubs and corporate away days, its programmes are designed to boost self-confidence and team working skills through activities including archery, caving and zip lining to name a few. To truly take in the scenery here, you enjoy the breathtaking views from 33,000ft in a glider with Yorkshire Gliding Club. Water babies may prefer sailing, windsurfing or open water swimming with Scaling Dam Sailing Club. If you never thought you’d find a surfing spot up North, think again - the seaside town of Saltburn serves up some decent waves for and you can take lessons with Flow Surf School. For more ideas of eco breaks in the North York Moors, including places to stay, local food and drink, attractions and activities, see our: Green Traveller's Guide to the North York Moors

As part of our celebration of the eight Welsh Protected Landscapes, Sarah Baxter discovers the Clwydian Range & Dee Valley AONB offers a fantastic range of outdoor adventure Is the Dee Valley the UK’s most active valley? I think it might be. After a brief introduction to it I’ll tell you why I am face down in the raging white water of the River Dee steeling myself for my own almighty adventure. The Dee Valley was added to North Wales’s Clwydian Range AONB in 2011, more than doubling the size of the existing Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. And it IS outstanding. The Dee has long been considered a special river: its name derives from the Celtic ‘deva’, meaning River of the Goddess. The landscapes all around it are dramatic - from endlessly interfolding hills to sharp-edged escarpments - and the history is deep and diverse. However, the Dee Valley is more than a pretty picture or a fascinating history lesson. It’s a playground for everyone, which brings me back to that impending tidal wave... The reason I am facing down an angry burble of ice-cold river is because I am aboard a bodyboat, a sort of sun-lounger for adrenalin junkies. You lay on a contoured piece of plastic on your belly and paddle with your arms; there are handles on the sides but, unlike a kayak, nothing to keep you in. Antony Fleming-Williams started his bodyboating company in 2015 and he is the country’s only commercial operator of these easy-to-hop-on vessels. I am braving the February chill to fling myself head first down the Dee with Antony, negotiating the 3-km stretch from Horseshoe Falls (a Telford-designed weir, built in 1808) to the town of Llangollen. I want to see if the valley can live up to its ‘most active’ claim, even in winter. Fortunately I am wearing A LOT of neoprene, including a pair of webbed gloves. “Congratulations,” says Antony, as I flex my fingers, “you are now half otter.” Despite the cosy wetsuit, I rather hope I might stay on my board; that the rapids raging ahead won’t toss me into their angry depths. No such luck. With a cold smack, I am off, spluttering in the whirling river, dunked, gasping, resurfacing, giggling like an idiot. Brilliant fun! This isn’t the only time the Dee beasts me. Bodyboating is simple – virtually anyone can have a go – but rapids have minds of their own. I paddle under the recently restored Chain Bridge that has spanned the river since 1817. I whoop successfully through the surf while glimpsing views up to the rolling hills, but I come a cropper again as we near Llangollen and a particularly gnarly swell jettisons me with gusto. I swim-laugh to the calm pool at the river’s edge, where Antony hauls me in, typically upbeat: “Perfect! What a leap! We needed to get off here anyway...” There’s arguably no way to get closer to the Dee than by bodyboating, your face mere inches from its eddies. However, this is far from the only way to get active in and around the valley. You can also raft, kayak, canoe or stand-up paddle. You can stroll, hike, cycle, hop on a horse-drawn barge, board the steam locos of the Llangollen Railway, or combine all of the above, perhaps cycling one way to the vertiginous Pontcysyllte Aquaduct, then taking a boat back. In fact, there’s no need for a car. Take a train to Chirk or Ruabon (about 2.5 hours from London, via Chester), then a quick bus to Llangollen, and a week-full of walking trails, heritage rails and waterways are yours for the taking. If you take the steam train along the valley to Glyndyfrdwy Station, you can disembark for something a little more sedate. Ant and Leanne, owners of Stand-Up Paddle Board UK, also offer archery in a meadow by the Dee. Wearing a Robin Hood hat is mandatory, Leanne insists, as she teaches me to ping arrows into the target. My first one disappears into the grass, but I blame my incompetency on the distracting views: glorious green folds brushed russet with winter bracken, all dotted with fluffy sheep. The Dee gurgles as I draw back my bow once more – an action that feels quite natural in this ancient borderland, where many such shots would have been fired between warring Saxons and Celts. Indeed, Offa’s Dyke Path National Trail, which follows the eighth-century earthwork that once divided England and Wales, runs the entire length of the Clwydian Range and Dee Valley AONB. Later I follow a tiny section of the historic footpath,where it skirts past Llangollen, to walk up onto the Trevor Rocks escarpment. The views – to the Berwyn Mountains and deeper into the Dee Valley – are striking, enhanced by a biblical sky, shafts of sunlight bursting through cloud like a message from the gods. Dominating my view is the snaggle-toothed hilltop ruin of Dinas Brân castle, built in the thirteenth century by a local Welsh prince on the site of a prehistoric fort. Some claim it’s also home to the legendary cup of Christ. Maybe, maybe not but, whether it is true or not, scores of adventurers regard the Dee Valley as something of a Holy Grail.

As we celebrate our Greentraveller's Guide to Lesvos and Chios, Sian Lewis explores the tastes of the island of Chios, from fragrant tangerines to treasured mastic sap. I don't think I've been anywhere where food is such a simple and yet integral part of day-to-day life as Chios. The so-called 'island of the senses' is aptly named for the fragrant scent of jasmine hanging heavily in evening air and the sight of the deep blue sea as you drive along the coastal roads, but the abiding sensorial memory I have of this charming, laid-back corner of the North Aegean is of taste. Admittedly, I'm the kind of person who daydreams about lunch whilst polishing off breakfast, but I'd bet that the lovingly prepared, simply served dishes that abound on Chios are enough to turn anyone into a serious foodie. Chios is the 5th largest Greek island and a place with a chequered and turbulent past, inextrictably linked to its gastronomical riches. Through the centuries the island was ruled by many different peoples and regularly invaded by pirates desperate for a taste of its bounty. Chios' coveted produce, such as scented tangerines, rich olives and priceless mastic sap, has even shaped its architecture. Hidden in the hills are fascinating fortified villages, designed to be unpenetrable to protect local farmers and their precious crops from unwanted visitors. And along the coast a line of watchtowers still stand proud, relics from the days when fires would be lit along the shoreline to announce approaching pirate ships. Chios may now be a peaceful place to visit but you can get a taste of wilder times. Many of the island's specialities are produced using centuries-old methods, and food is part of the rhythm of the day here - early one morning in Avgonyma I found hunters busy skinning rabbits outside my cottage, whilst in the evening twilight local women gathered in the squares of the village to gossip as they dexterously washed mastic sap. Local produce is even used as decoration, from octopus tentacles strung up outside beachside tavernas to fat garlands of tomatoes ripening in the sun on stone walls. The perfect way to discover Chios' foodie heritage is a guided walk with Vassilis Ballas. He's a Chiot with a wealth of knowledge of local history, and left a job in an office in Athens to return to the island and help visitors discover its gastronomical past. We met Vassilis in medieval Mesta village and he walked us through the quiet stone archways and empty corners of this peaceful old place, spinning tales as we went of what life was like for the farmers who harvested mastic here. There are 24 mastic villages, each different and uniquely decorated, but Mesta was my favourite. Designed to be an inpregnable and confusing fortress to would-be thieves, it appears to be just a huge, rather off-putting wall from outside. But venture in through the gates and you'll find a magical, secret settlement - a warren of tightly-packed stone cottages and narrow cobbled streets. Vasillis explained that the houses are so close together that villagers can visit each other by climbing over the roofs. We walked past shaded squares and locals sitting at wooden tables drinking 'souma', a potent local liquor made of distilled figs and grapes. We eventually found the old gate again and ventured out into the mastic groves, full of little, wizened trees hunched over like old men. Vassilis taught us the fine art of harvesting mastic sap, once worth its weight in gold to trade and still used to flavour desserts, as medicine or as a unique chewing gum. Vassilis showed us how to take a sharp little knife and make nicks in the scarred bark of our chosen tree victims. Sap immediately began to ooze out, liquid and sticky. Older cuts on the trees yielded hard jewels of the sap - when they fall to the ground they are ready to be collected. We tried doing as the Chiots do and chewing on the mastic tears - they have a delicate piney taste and are surprisingly refreshing. Another delightful place to discover the heritage of Chios is hidden in the shady glades of the area of Kampos. Founded by Genoese invaders in the 14th century, this fertile part of the island is dotted with Italian-style villas, citrus orchards and flower gardens, and one of the grand old mansions has been lovingly turned into a museum dedicated to the island's citrus fruits. The collection of curios here makes for a fascinating insight into a time when Chiot gentry lived very well indeed from the sale of oranges, which were carefully wrapped in beautifully decorated paper before being shipped around the world. The legacy of the citrus trade lives on in Citrus Chios, a company which still produces a rainbow of incredible preserves, marizipans and sweets delicated flavoured with oranges, lemons and figs. We retired to a table in the museum's shady square for cold Greek frappe coffees and a tasting of the jams and candied fruit on offer, which are traditionally served as 'spoon sweets'. Eaten with a dollop of Greek yoghurt, or just, as the name suggests, with a spoon, they're a deliciously tart end to a meal. Despite how rewarding gastronomic-themed days out are on Chios, there's no need to do any organising to enjoy the pleasure of eating well - just pop into any beachside taverna. They all serve very similar, traditional dishes, and after a few days on the island I gave up trying to navigate my way through menus and just asked the waiters to bring us what they recommended. Try it and your table will groan with bright Greek salads, just-off-the-boat fish and tasty meat dishes, served with glasses of cloudy ouzo or a brain-rattlingly strong coffee. Words by Sian Lewis. --- Sian took a tour of Mesta with Vassilis Ballas of Masticulture Tours, who offers day or evening trips around the village and out into the mastic groves, including a picnic of Chiot produce The Citrus Museum in Kampos can arrange tastings of jams and spoon sweets made by Citrus Chios, also for sale in their shop

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Athens, Clare Hargreaves sample Athen's street food on a food tour of the city Athens has always been good at street food. Think oregano-perfumed pork souvlaki, served from a hole in the wall, inside a comforting cushion of doughy pita along with chopped tomato, red onion and a dash of yoghurt. Or nut-packed baklava oozing with honey that leaves your hands sticky for days. Or cheese pie that Greeks often eat a hefty slice of for breakfast with their wake-up morning coffee (though it’s also good at any time of day!). Now Athens is taking its street food to another level. Enterprising Athenians are setting up delis selling Greece’s best health-giving olive oils and salty artisan cheeses or opening ice-cream joints specialising in kaimaki, a delectable ‘stretchy’ ice cream made from buffalo milk and mastika resin from the trees of Chios. Creative chefs such as Greek MasterChef’s Harry Bonanos are dishing out fusion food from colourful vans while others are giving innovative twists to Greek classics on streetside stalls or setting up fantastical themed cafes. And the annual Street Food Festival in the up-and-coming neighbourhood of Gazi now draws crowds of several thousand hungry visitors. A great way to get a taste of Athens’ vibrant street food scene is to join one of the Food Tours run by Alternative Athens, a small company that started in 2013 with the aim of showing travellers “the genuine side of Greece, away from easy tourist stereotypes.” Its young, enthusiastic guides take you to places you might not normally find to give you the delicious inside track. “Clothes shops folded during The Crisis but street food stalls multiplied,” says Food Tour leader Tania Fiore as we set off. “People need quick and cheap but tasty food, so we saw lots of new places springing up.” We kicked off in smart Nikis Street, off Syntagma Square, at a shop simply called Baklava selling every possible permutation of the honey, nut and filo pastry (bring wet wipes for your post-baclava fingers.) One tray holds neat rows of green bundles, baklavas whose pastry is made with ground pistachios and have become a best-seller. Their honey baklava with cream is proving a winner too. You couldn’t do a food tour without tasting olives and olive oil, and Malotira Deli, on Apollonos Street, is the place to do it. Co-owner Cretan-born Errika specialises in products from small producers, which you won’t find in supermarkets. “We do this because we’re foodies and we’re very proud of what we have here in Greece,” she says. “Basically we stock the foods we like eating ourselves, so you could say the business is a bit selfish!” Errika sees her role as not just selling food but sharing her knowledge about how it’s been produced. She also advises on food pairings, so she might marry morsels of Cretan smoked pork with cubes of a special graviera cheese (like gruyere) and sikomaida (dried fig-cake from Corfu). Nibble your way through a platter and see if you agree. Having been brought up on an olive grove in Crete, Errika knows how to tell a superb oil from a good one. All her oils are early harvest, organic and extra-virgin. But she also selects for a high content of polyphenols which, according to academics in California, have been found to have significant health benefits. They recommend a 20g spoonful a day. But when you taste the smooth liquid gold on offer here, like Corfu’s The Governor, that doesn’t seem too great a hardship. Flagging? Time for a coffee. And there’s nowhere better to enjoy one than on the terrace of Cherchez La Femme, a cafe on Athens’ famous Mitropoleos (Cathedral) Street. The coffee is not an insipid expresso or cafe au lait, you understand, but a proper ‘Greek’ (again its origins are disputed) coffee, black as tar and so strong it’ll get your pulse racing in seconds. You watch the grains being measured and brought to the boil with water in their purpose-made copper pot, known as a briki, at the bar, then down the coffee with a chunk or two of rose-perfumed loukoumi. You might spot a few youngsters adding milk to their Greek coffees, something that would get the old guard in Greece’s more traditional kafenia doing double speed on their worry beads. But here at Cherchez la Femme, anything goes. Happily, an early “lunch”, in the form of souvlaki, is on offer just a few blocks away, in picturesque Agias Irinis square. Tania leads you to Kostas, which at first glance looks like a scruffy hole in the wall. But the queues in front reveal that this is no ordinary souvlaki joint. Here Kostas has been braving the heat of his grill to produce first-rate kebabs for over 65 years. They’re topped with a dash of yoghurt and a spoonful of hot chilli sauce, but you’re wasting your breath if you try to ask for its secret recipe. Such is the place’s enduring popularity that if you turn up after 3pm you’ll find the place boarded up. “Kostas closes when he’s sold out, and that’s usually by three,” says Tania. It’s probably a good idea to have eaten before reaching your next stop, the central market, housed in a magnificent wrought-iron hall that gives London’s Spitalfields and Borough markets a run for their money. Ruby-red lamb carcases (heads on) hang mournfully in rows inside glass cases, but if that’s too much for your stomach or nostrils you can move on to stalls of gleaming silver fish (skilfully positioned so their eyes catch those of their customers), shiny aubergines, super-size beef tomatoes, and neat pyramids of spices, olives and nuts. The pricetag on some of the pistachios signals they’re something special: blonde-shelled fistikia from the island of Aegina, renowned as some of the finest the world, with their own PDO protected name to prove it. The tour, like all the best restaurants, ends on two desserts. The first is loukoumades, prepared at Krinos, a retro-style cafeteria that since 1923 has resided in the majestic 19th-century building that was once Athens’ first pharmacy. Loukoumades are dough balls, roughly the size of golf balls, that are deep fried, then liberally doused in honey syrup and cinnamon. The final stop is a cafe in Iroon Square in Psiri, Athens’ answer to Soho. Give your stomach a few minutes’ rest before the final onslaught by watching the dough acrobatics performed by a local pastry-maker. These involve rolling a slab of butter-rich filo, then stretching it by throwing it into the air until it’s roughly a metre in diameter. The paper-thin pastry is then filled with soft, oozy custard filling to make bougatsa, a flaky-pastry custard pie. “Grab a piece in your hand to take with you,” says Tania. Well, perhaps she could make that two. Or three. Athens’ street food is so good, the more you eat the more you want. More info: Alternative Athens: www.alternativeathens.com Words and Photos by Clare Hargreaves. == Disclosure: Clare Hargreaves was a guest of the Greece National Tourism Organisation. Clare had full editorial control of the review, which is written in her own words based on her experience of visiting Athens in October 2019 for Green Traveller's Guide to Athens. All opinions are the author's own.

Holly Rooke visits French resort Villages Nature Paris, a collection of holiday cottages just 20 miles from the French capital, to see how it has incorporated sustainable principles into its large scale design and operations. The new resort Villages Nature Paris, a collaboration between EuroDisney S.C.A. and Groupe Pierre & Vacances Centre Parcs, is a collection of over 900 holiday cottages and apartments set in a tranquil, car-free landscape of forests, lakes and gardens. The resort was planned, built and operated according to Bioregional’s One Planet Living Framework – ten principles covering aspects such as energy, carbon, water and waste. After more than a decade of planning and construction, and a total budget of €500 million, the site opened to guests in September 2017. Five Immersive Worlds The presence of Disney is unmissable in the layout of Villages Nature. Split into five ‘immersive worlds’ – The Aqualagon, the Bellevie Farm, the Extraordinary Gardens, the Forest of Legends and the Lakeside Promenade – the design aims to reconcile nature with the highly organised and schematic vision of Disney’s ‘imagineers’, and does so with surprising success. Each of the five worlds has a different theme and target age-range, but all are intended to allow and encourage guests to reconnect with nature, something that is obviously hugely important to the people behind Villages Nature. The heart of Villages Nature – both geographically and conceptually – this huge waterpark, complete with seven waterslides, numerous pools, rapids, jacuzzis and a wave machine, is heated year-round entirely by geothermal energy. The geothermal source which heats the water also provides 100% of the heat energy demand of the site, and even generates excess power which is sent to Disneyland. The fun of the Aqualagon encapsulates what is so promising about Villages Nature: its commitment to providing a destination that makes being sustainable enjoyable and effortless for its guests. After all, what could be better than swimming in the April sun in deliciously warm water in the knowledge that it was heated by a completely renewable energy source. Accommodation The accommodation is provided in a mixture of cottages and apartments, all built using low-carbon cement and sustainable timber, which saved approximately 12,000 tonnes of carbon emissions compared to the French construction average. Each accommodation has its own private garden or green space, creating a sense of spaciousness that I was not expecting from a resort of this size. Inside, my apartment was comfortable and light, the design simple but attractive. The pack of eco washing up liquid and other kitchen necessities was a particularly nice touch, demonstrating a meticulousness that was apparent throughout my time in Villages Nature. Some 97% of waste created during the construction of the accommodation and the remainder of the resort was sorted and diverted from landfill – not quite reaching the One Planet target of zero waste, but not far off. Emelie Reiss, CSR Manager at Groupe Pierre & Vacances, was honest about the challenges presented by maintaining the One Planet principles throughout a project of this size: getting each one of the countless firms involved in the construction to buy into the zero waste vision was, she said, definitely one of these. Activities Like the immersive worlds, the various activities available on site are all centred around the desire to get guests in contact with nature. For adults, there’s everything ranging from cross-country running and paddleboarding to bee-keeping and wine tasting, while for kids there’s hut building, cooking classes and a designated kid’s club, developed in partnership with Disneynature. Listening to this list of diverse pursuits I had the sense, which had come up at numerous points before, that the developers were constantly searching for those activities that have a double benefit: good for the health and happiness of the guest and good for the planet. Getting there Just 20 miles from the centre of Paris, Villages Nature is easily accessible by public transport. From London, I took the Eurostar to Paris and then caught the RER train to Marne-la-Vallée, where a bus runs directly to Villages Nature. The whole journey can be done in around four hours. The site itself is car-free, which, it is hoped, will encourage guests to lower their carbon footprint while staying in the resort. The meticulous care with which so many aspects of the planning, construction and operation of the project was and is referred back to the One Planet Living Principles is impressive for a resort of this size. Additionally, the commitment to doing so in a way that is fun and easy for guests is hugely promising for the future of sustainable tourism, in a world in which many people still see ‘being green’ as a chore – not something to do on holiday. As Emelie Reiss told me: “Villages Nature was designed to offer a positive vision of sustainability. We have to keep in mind that people are here primarily for leisure, relaxation and enjoyment, and offer them the opportunity to do this in a way that does not damage the planet.” More information: Villages Nature ParisBioregional's One Planet Living Framework == Disclosure: Holly Rooke was a guest of Village Nature Paris and Bioregional. Holly had full editorial control of the review, which is written in her own words based on her experience of visiting Villages Nature Paris in the spring of 2018. All opinions are the author's own.

Catherine Mack takes the ferry from Ros a' Mhíl (Rossaveal) port on the west of Ireland to visit the inspiring Inis Meáin Restaurant and Suites. In a nutshell: A luxury hotel and restaurant on the Aran Islands off the west coast of Ireland. Rooms: 5 suites Price: From €960 for 2 nights, including breakfast and lunch, transfer to/from the island (when travelling via Rossaveal Ferryport) Meals: Island Dinner (4 courses) is €80 per person Open: Mid March to end of October. Good to know: It's very much a private retreat, run personally by the owners and their small team. The island is just 5km by 3km and is easily explorable by bike or on foot - there are lovely coastal hikes from two to eight hours to see sea-cliffs, wave cut platforms, puffing holes, beaches and dunes. Good for green: The restaurant specialises in island ingredients, including lobster and crab from local fishermen; vegetables from kitchen garden. There's a rainwater harvesting system and mains water is supplied via the island’s wind-powered desalination plant. === Catherine's Review of Inis Meáin: The Setting: No one describes Inis Meáin, one of the least visited of Ireland’s Aran Islands, better than John Millington Synge, Ireland’s most celebrated playwright, who spent four long summers here, between 1896 and 1902. His journal of these visits, The Aran Islands, is a poetic study of life on the island, the people he met, their struggle to survive through fishing or minimal farming, and is packed with local fables and fairytales. I recommend buying the book here before you go. Today, the island’s natural heritage is relatively unchanged, with the same Atlantic waves pounding on perilous cliffs, soft waters still flowing into secret coves, and karst limestone headlands as sparsely populated as they ever were. Visitors can’t bring cars onto the island, which is only three by five kilometres and yet, when you walk around it, you can get totally lost in what feels like another world, with thousands of stone walls, ancient forts tucked behind more stone walls, and thatched cottages protected from winter winds by yet more stone walls. The Rooms: There are five luxury suites tucked into the limestone terrace, all camouflaged by the building’s limestone façade, which segues seamlessly into the island’s same native stone. In Suites 1-4 also known as The Burren Suites, windows stretch the length of each room, giving a cinematic perspective on the surrounding sea and landscapes. In the larger Suite 5, the Connemara Suite, there is both a living room and bedroom, the former boasting a beautiful wood burning stove. All of Inis Meain’s suites ooze contemporary luxury, with enormous white beds, draped in locally knitted alpaca throws, all in shades of grey, to reflect the surrounding karst limestone. The mini-fridge is stocked with fine wines, salamis, local cheeses, and Fairtrade chocolate. Each room has a lobby where they store bikes, fishing rods, and swimming towels for each guest. There is a wooden bench and bar stretching the length of this vast room, so that you can eat, drink and watch the wild Atlantic world go by, until the island's magic finally calls you out there to join it. The Food: It is hard to know which can take the highest credit here - the restaurant or the suites. However as islander Ruairí de Blacam, who founded this island idyll with his wife Marie-Thérèse, is also the chef here, I think he may have opted to have ‘Restaurant’ come first in the credits. The kitchen is clearly his kingdom, all open plan in the heart of his 16 seater restaurant, where he stands centre stage producing the likes of lobster with golden beet, John Dory with baby carrots to the most simple and stunningly prepared dry aged sirloin. All while his guests sit around him, taking in more panoramic views of sunsets, storms or pure and simple stillness. There are no pretensions or preciousness about food here, with menus kept simple yet sublime and revolving around two main elements, usually with a big bowl of spuds to boot. However, everything is clearly and carefully planned, from planting to plating, as they also successfully farm this tough land to grow their own vegetables, salads and fruit. All other ingredients are from the Atlantic or locally reared. Dinner is the only meal served in the restaurant, with breakfast delivered to your suite, and left quietly in the suite’s lobby, so that you can help yourself when you rise and shine. Another feast, I tucked into a cleverly concocted mélange of goodies, including freshly baked scones and bread, boiled eggs, salami and cheese, fresh fruit, muesli and yoghurt, all in copious quantities to allow you to pack up the leftovers for picnic while out on a trek or a cycle. Not that you will go hungry, as they also leave a backback with a flask of homemade soup and bread to make sure you get out on those trails, rain or shine. Activities: Bikes, fishing rods and swimming towels are provided with each suite, and I highly recommend availing of all three. If you think it is going to be too cold for a dip, pack a wetsuit, as the water is so soft and transparent, it is worth experiencing. I hadn’t fished since I was a child, so was delighted to catch some Pollock off the old pier. Ruairí had insisted I bring back my catch if big enough, which he presented later at dinner, beautifully prepared in raw sashimi style slices, sprinkled with sesame seeds and ginger, and a bowl of wasabi sauce. Pack your hiking boots too, as the walking is spectacular, and each suite also boasts ash walking sticks to help you manage the uneven ground. There is a lovely booklet which describes the local walks. My favourite was the wild, mostly uninhabited south west coast, which took almost four hours and that was going at a pace. Most of this is an uncharted mass of limestone, some parts jagged and rough, other patches of smooth slab, all leading to scary cliff tops with waves pounding over the edge, sending sea water all around my feet. I kept my distance from the edge, and followed the stone walls which line the coast, feeling protected by their history of staying power. The Green: As well as growing their own fruit and vegetables, (all fertilised with seaweed which is the traditional island method), rearing chickens, pigs and cows, they have an impressive rainwater harvesting system and mains water is supplied via the island’s wind-powered desalination plant. As visitors can’t bring cars onto the island, cycling and walking are the only options while you are here, although the de Blacams meet you off the ferry in their minibus when you arrive. Inis Meáin Restaurant and Suites is also an important employer on the island where work opportunities are limited as well as bringing good business to the island’s pub, just a limestone’s throw from the hotel. As Irish speakers, the de Blacams are also keen conservationists of island culture and heritage, promoting all aspects of this through literature and art in the suites, as well as sharing their own extensive knowledge of island history. Get to Inis Meáin the low carbon way: Travel by ferry (a 45-minute crossing) to the island of Inis Meáin with Aran Island Ferries from Ros a' Mhíl (Rossaveal) port, 37kms west of Galway City centre (where you can pick up a shuttle bus at Queen Street). You need to get the shuttle bus 1.5 hours before your sailing time. From €30 return for the ferry and €9 for bus. For those coming from outside Ireland, see our guide: How to travel to Ireland without flying. Verdict: Inis Meáin, the island, is a place of great solace and, in some ways, still harbours a mysterious sadness. It feels as if every stone wall, and there are thousands, tells a story of survival or loss. It is remote and rugged, wild and mysterious, and it is easy to see why it has inspired artists, writers, photographers and musicians. Inis Meáin Restaurant and Suites is also a work of art, in that it sustains and celebrates all of this natural and cultural heritage while still managing to wrap guests up in a cocoon that is chic but not pretentious, warm but not in your face, and with hospitality that exceeds all expectations of what we have grown to expect of an Irish welcome. And it is, quite simply, one of those places, which makes me very proud to be Irish. Top Tip: Inis Meáin Restaurant and Suites’ reputation has spread far and wide. Which is not surprising given its status as one of Ireland’s most unique and exquisite places to stay if you want to get back to the elements. So, you need to have the finger on the pulse when it comes to booking. As it is only open between mid-March and mid-October, suites book up a year in advance, with bookings opening at the end of one season for the next. Priority is given to returning guests and then to guests signed up to their mailing list. So sign up and treat yourself! Book a Holiday at Inis Meáin: Check their availability calendar and book online or email: post@inismeain.com ========== Disclosure: Green Traveller's reviews have been written with the support of one or more of the following: accommodation owner, activity provider, operator, equipment supplier, tourist board, protected landscape authority or other destination-focussed authority. The reviewer retains full editorial control of the work, which has been written in the reviewer's own words based on their experience of the accommodation, activity, equipment or destination.

Catherine Mack visits the campsite, off-grid cabins and glampsite run by 'Pure Camping' on the Loop Head peninsula, County Clare, Ireland In a nutshell: A collection of bell tents, off-grid wooden cabins as well as a few pitches for a tents in a glorious spiritual setting on the Loop Head peninsula created by two passionate nature/outdoors enthusiasts as a joint project with community members. The site is also a venue for events and yoga/meditation retreats. Rooms: 5 bell tents (three furnished 5m tents and two unfurnished 4m tents), 3 wooden cabins, several tent pitches and 2 small campervan bays Price: Tent or campervan pitch from €12 per person per night; 4m unfurnished bell tent €15 per person per night; 5m furnished bell tent from €60 per night (minimum two nights); wooden cabin from €90 per night (minimum two nights) Meals: Onsite pizza oven; seafood available at nearby award-winning gastropub The Long Dock, in Carrigaholt, and seafood chowder at Keatings Pub in Kilbaha Open: year round Facilities: Campers kitchen equipped with pots and pans, crockery and cutlery and electric hob; Sauna; Yoga and Meditation classes; Good for Green: Walkers & Cyclists Welcome; Owners have planted 4 hectares of native woodland; Get there by train and bus to Kilkee where you can hire a bike or take a taxi for final leg. Watch a Video about Pure Camping === Catherine's Review of Pure Camping The setting: One of the west of Ireland’s peninsulas that stretches out into the Atlantic like a jewel bedecked finger, Loop Head has a perfect combination of calm and crashing waves. The former is on the River Shannon’s estuary which flanks Loop Head’s southern side, and the latter is on the north side where the dramatic cliffs and seascapes are shaped by the surge of the Atlantic. Pure Camping is located at Querrin, on the more sheltered Shannon side, just 15 mins walk from the shore and it is an oasis of calm in all senses of the word. Pure Camping is also located on the 65km Loop Head Cycleway, which goes around the whole peninsula, top to toe. The accommodation: Pure Camping has an array of accommodation to suit every outdoorsy person’s needs and budgets. There are fully furnished bell tents, each with a deck and firepit, but there are also unfurnished ones with sleeping mats provided. New to the campsite in 2020 are three off-grid wooden cabins, with wood-burning stoves and ensuite bathrooms. Having these cosy spots has meant that Trea and Kevin Heape, Pure Camping’s owners, have been able to extend their season to cover spring and autumn now. There are also a few pitches for campers with their own tents, as well as a communal bathroom and a fully equipped camping kitchen. Very popular with all guests, there is also a beautiful wood-burning barrel sauna on site. The food: It’s a campsite, so cooking is up to you, although there is a pizza oven on site and of course wellness retreats are fully catered, with vegan and vegetarian fare. However there is no shortage of great Irish pubs and restaurants on Loop Head if you want to dine out. Two of my favourite foodie experiences were a symphony of seafood at award-winning gastropub The Long Dock, in Carrigaholt, and the seafood chowder at Keatings Pub in Kilbaha, overlooking the southward facing side of the peninsula’s tip. For the best places to eat along Ireland’s west coast, don’t travel without this book: The Wild Atlantic Way, Where to eat and stay, by Ireland’s best food writers and devotees of local deliciousness, Sally and John Mckenna. The activities: Trea and Kevin Heape created Pure Camping because, among many reasons, their natural heritage is indeed pure. This is a work of two people’s passion for both the natural world and natural healing. Kevin and Trea are also natural hosts and welcoming people to their exquisite corner of Ireland clearly comes totally naturally to them. Trea is a yoga and meditation teacher and so there are courses and classes throughout the year here, and spiritual practitioners of yoga will love the site’s labyrinth, which was created as a joint project with community members. Loop Head Tourism has won awards for its commitment to eco and community led tourism projects. As well as Loop Head Cycleway there are glorious coastal walks, guided or self-guided) birding tours, coasteering and horse riding. The most memorable experience for me, however, was seeing the dolphins which live in the Shannon estuary. Dolphinwatch’s Geoff & Susanne Magee run exemplary ecotourism trips, experts not only in cetaceans but all things coastal. They are another example of fine Loop Head people who are committed to the natural world and leave visitors falling in love with the Loop. The Green: As well as being leading members of the exemplary Loop Head Tourism network, which has sustainability of the area as its core mission, Pure Camping is wholly committed to maintaining the biodiversity of the area. They have details of local flora and fauna on their website, work with local experts to provide guided nature tours and have planted 4 hectares of native woodland. They have a rainwater harvesting system for the communal bathroom and hot water for the shower block is generated by a wood-burning stove. Hot water for the communal kitchen is generated by solar power and there is also solar lighting around the campsite. Top Tip: If you are a keen outdoor swimmer, ask for directions to the Pollock Holes in Kilkee where, when the tide goes out, natural swimming pools are left among the rocks. Then head to The Kilkee Thalassotherapy Centre, a small family-run business where you can experience an Irish tradition of a seaweed bath. From Pure Camping to pure bladderwrack bliss. The Verdict: Pure Camping isn’t just green, it’s a sparkling emerald in a special corner of the island. There is something very calming about this place, and it is also very family friendly. Trea and Kevin are parents themselves and they know how wonderful it is when we see the young people in our lives connect with nature again. It’s glamping without any designer welly boots, spiritual without being in your face about it and pure in an Irish rain sort of way. It seems to just come naturally. Getting there: Loop Head is not the easiest by public transport, but it is worth it. And with fully equipped tents and cabins you don’t need a car. You can travel by train to Limerick or Ennis train stations and then take a bus to Kilkee. Pure Camping will recommend a taxi company to pick you up, or you can hire a bike in Kilkee at Williams Rent A Bike, Tel: +353 65 9056041 (no website), or rent an electric one at Loop Head Bike Hire. >> See our Guide to How to travel to Ireland without flying Book a holiday at Pure Camping: Email Trea and Kevin on info@purecamping.ie or call them on: +353 (0)86 3819216.

Paul Bloomfield explores Catalonia's Montsec mountains on foot and by kayak "Turquoise."
 "No, teal."
 "That water is turquoise." "I told you: it's teal. "
Pause... and just when I thought it was settled: "Turquoise." As wrangles go, it was hardly world war three. But since our debate about the colour of the water was conducted while negotiating a narrow bridle path etched into near-vertical cliffs plummeting 500m into that teal-turquoise-blue-green channel below, it was possibly not as crucial as keeping our eyes on the trail. Particularly since peckish vultures circled overhead, ready to feast on the unfortunate remains of any less sure-footed hikers. If the exact hue of the river was in dispute, the grandeur of the canyon certainly wasn't., a narrow gorge slicing through the wide, vertiginous sweep of the Serra de Montsec range in Catalonia's wild west, is a highpoint – literally and figuratively – of Lleida province. Carved through the mountain by the Noguera Ribagorçana river, the gorge isn't just a thing of beauty: for centuries it was the main route through the range from north to south, and today it forms the border between Catalonia and Aragon. The important ancient trail near the valley floor was flooded when the Canelles dam was built in the mid-20th century, and a new path gouged from the rock high above the new water level. It was a bright May morning when a companion and I joined local guide Jaume Marvà to traverse this dramatic track, part of the GR1 long-distance trail. From the boat drop-off nearnorth of the gorge proper, the path climbs briefly as the rock walls rapidly close in. Intimidating though these cliffs appear, they're far from inhospitable; Jaume pointed out clefts where bearded vultures, golden eagles and peregrine falcons nest. Upwards and onwards we strode, glancing back over our shoulders to admire the jagged ruins of the Castell de Girbeta silhouetted against distant, snow-capped Pyrenean peaks. "The tower was built in 1070 by Christians undertaking the conquest of the Iberian peninsula from the Moors," Jaume told me. "It guarded this important route into the rest of Spain – though it was another half-century before the mountains were taken by the Christians." After half an hour the canyon widened and the path wound beneath a reminder of even older human habitation: gaping Cova Colomera. "This cave is still being studied by archaeologists, who have discovered neolithic remains inside," Jaume told me. "Indeed, there are more than 70 caves in the Montsec area, many decorated with ancient rock art." A little further on, the new hanging bridge of la Maçana spans the gorge; here the path splits, one branch crossing into Aragon and leading on to the refuge at Montfalcó ('Falcon Mountain'). We continued on the Catalan side instead, admiring paragliders riding thermals overhead and pausing to sniff wild rosemary lining the track. The day was rapidly heating up, and the shade provided as the path snaked into aromatic pinewoods was welcome, particularly as the trail began a long ascent. Finally we emerged from rocky scrub onto a ridge topped by the medieval Ermita de la Mare de Déu de la Pertusa chapel, where we perched to drink in the panoramic vistas. To the north rose rust-streaked cliffs; to the west, the glistening Canelles reservoir (Catalonia's largest lake); and below I traced the wake of a lone kayak emerging from the gorge – a tempting trailer for our afternoon activity. After a hearty lunch of escudella amb pilota (traditional mountain soup with pasta and meatballs) and butifarra sausage, based on an ancient Roman recipe, the kayak sat a little lower in the water than I'd like. But that extra ballast was soon forgotten as I paddled across the reservoir with adventure guide Joel Mirón, the extraordinary shade of the water even more striking at close range. My craft skimmed across the still water with easy strokes, the elephant-skin wrinkled rock walls funnelling us into the canyon. From this perspective the rock-top eyrie of La Pertusa seemed even more dramatic, the cliffs more daunting; no wonder rock-climbers flock here. "Legendary American climber Chris Sharma pioneered one of the world's toughest routes here last year," Joel told me. On this warm spring afternoon, though, we had the place to ourselves. The only sounds were the gentle splash-and-drip as our paddles dipped in that mineral-tinged water, and the florid trills and warbles of birds darting above. North we forged, tracing the morning's route in reverse, beneath steps bolted into the rock forming the Aragonese path, and under the bridge of la Maçana into the gorge. Here I leaned back in my craft and drifted free, gazing up at electric-blue sky framed tightly by the tall rock walls, speckled with circling black dots betraying birds of prey soaring high on thermals – though in this timeless spot I wouldn't have been surprised if Joel had identified them as pterodactyls. The firmament above Montsec has more than just avian life to draw the attention, as I would soon discover. Thanks to its clear air, low population and minimal light pollution, the area has been designation a Unesco Starlight Reserve – a wonderful place to experience the wonders of astronomy. So late that night I headed just a few miles east of the gorge to Montsec Astronomical Park, an observatory dedicated to bringing the wonders of the universe vividly to life for novice stargazers. Sadly, the evening brought clouds and rain, so the huge telescope remained covered. No matter: in the central dome cinema, after a lively 3D film introducing basic astronomical concepts beginning with the big bang, an astonishingly sophisticated computer-generated simulation carried us deep into the cosmos. Through time and space we were whisked, to distant stars as they were born and died, showing how constellations fit together and bringing the vastness of the universe into sharp focus – a fitting end to a day showcasing the galaxy of activities and attractions in Lleida. Words and photos by Paul Bloomfield Further information: >> Montsec Activa offers activities including hiking, kayaking and paddle-surfing. >> Joel's company Zenith Aventura rents kayaks, runs via ferrata sessions and provides training and tandem flights on hang-gliders and paragliders. >> Parc Astronòmic Montsec is open to visitors till 2am during spring and summer. == Disclosure: Paul Bloomfield was a guest of the Catalan Tourist Board. He has full editorial control of the review, which is written in his own words based on his experience of visiting Catalonia in the early summer of 2017 for Greentraveller's Guide to Catalonia. All opinions are the author’s own.

Published 7 May 2011 Here's a country-by-country guide to how to take a bike on the rail networks in key destinations within Europe. We also take a look at ways in which some rail networks are encouraging passengers to continue their journey by bike. Eurostar to Paris and Brussels There are three options for travelling on Eurostar with your own bicycle. Firstly, you can take it in a bike bag as described at the bottom of this article, free of charge. If you don't fancy having to re-assemble your bike after every journey, you can reserve one of the on-board storage places on-board Eurostar, which costs £30 each way. You need to book your ticket then call 0844 822 5822 (or email EuroDespatch@eurostar.com) with your booking reference number to reserve a spot. If your bike can't be accommodated on the train you're travelling on, the registered baggage service guarantees it will get there within 24 hours - you could send your bike ahead so that it's waiting at the other end. The £30 charge still applies. For more information, see the information page on Eurostar's website: Taking a Bike on Eurostar. Here's their video which describes the options: Beyond Paris and Brussels: Austria There is a charge to take your bike on all ÖBB lines, though some special ticket deals in certain provinces might include the fee. Rates are €12 on international journeys; €10 on long distance journeys within Austria and €5 on short. Short distance trains have space for between 6 and 20 bicycles and you don't need to reserve. Long distance trains can have as few as two and as many as 40 and you definitely need to reserve; call +43 5 1717. Belgium Belgium's SNCB charges passengers €4 per trip to take their bikes onboard. If the train controller can't fit you on the train you wish to travel on, you can transfer the ticket or have it refunded if you book your train ticket online - see the SNCB website. SNCB offers some great cycling packages, called 'B-Excursions', which combine return train travel to one of 17 destinations with the hire of a bike when you get there. An adult can take up to four kids for free with one of these packages. SNCB has also developed cyclepoints at 16 stations, providing bike hire and minor repairs. Croatia On Croatian Railways, every train has a designated bicycle carriage, with space for an impressive 30 bikes. This makes it an excellent destination for group cycling holidays - though the coast is not well served by the rail network. There are three further bike racks in standard coaches.  It costs HRK 30 (around £3.40) for each bicycle. Czech Republic Czech Lines does allow bikes on most trains at most times but check the timetable for the symbol which says bikes are allowed. You can either take it on the train with you, costing from CZK 25 (around 80p) for each leg of your journey, or place it in the designated section of the train, costing slightly more. You can also buy a one-day bike pass. If you book a space in advance, it costs a little more, from CZK 15 to 200 (around 50p - £6.70). There are lockers at some stations, and bikes for hire. Helpfully, you can rent a bike at one station and return it to another. Denmark De Danske Statsbaner (DSB) is generally bike-friendly, with special spaces for bikes normally located in the front and back carriages - look out for the bike symbol on the side of the carriage. In Copenhagen, you can take bikes for free on 'S-trains', but on others you need to buy a bike ticket. Prices vary from DKK 12 - 60 (around £1.70 - £6.70) depending how many zones you pass through. Outside Copenhagen, on InterCity and InterCityLyn services, prebooking is not normally essential but it is advised. Pre-book at the station or call +45 70 13 15. May - August, prebooking is required. Estonia Edelaraudtee is the main operator in Estonia. Bike stands are normally located in the first or last carriage, labelled with a sign, and a bike ticket costs around a fifth of the standard ticket price. On Elektriraudtee, or the Tallinn Suburban Railway, you don't need an extra ticket. One carriage of each train has bike spaces - it's always the second carriage in from the Tallinn end of the train. On GoRail, which travels between Tallinn and Moscow, only folding bikes are allowed. Finland It is particularly easy to take bikes on VR's long-distance trains, where there are no real restrictions and it's free of charge. On intercity trains, you need to pre-book (+358 9 2319 2902) and spaces are more limited. It costs €9 per bicycle. The double-decker carriage of intercity trains contains lockable bike racks, requiring a 50 cent coin. France SNCF has one of Europe's less simple policies. Dismantled bikes in special bags or cases are allowed on most trains free of charge. Only a small number of TGV (high speed) trains have any bike spaces on-board. Lille and Paris TGV services to Avignon, Marseille, Cannes and Nice usually let you put your bike in the luggage van, costing around £10 but you need to reserve it when you book your ticket.  Lunéa (overnight) trains usually have space for six fully-assembled bikes, again costing around £10. Most other trains around France will take your bike in the luggage van free of charge, though some peak time restrictions may apply. Look for the bike symbol on train timetables. Germany Some City Night Line trains have storage space for bikes: download the timetable and look for the bicycle symbol. It costs around €15. High-speed Thalys and ICE trains don't have special bike spaces, so you'd need to take your bike onboard in a special bike bag, or use regional trains (more likely to have bike spaces) instead. Helpfully, you can opt to search by trains which can take bikes when you book on the DB Bahn website. Hungary Rates within Hungary vary according to distance travelled, starting from HUF 230 9(about 70p) for up to 50km, up to HUF 1580 (£4.80) over 500km, though prices can be lower if you book in advance. InterCity trains with the bike symbol can carry 12 bikes; even those without the symbol will usually take a couple each at the front and rear of the train. You can search the MAV website by trains which carry bikes. International services to Slovakia and Slovenia cost €5; the Czech Republic, Austria, Germany and Croatia cost €10. The tourist office is working on a comprehensive publication for cyclists which will show the rail network and recommended cycle routes. Italy Passengers on Trenitalia's Regional trains can take their bikes on-board those trains which have the bike symbol beside them on the timetable. It costs €3.50 per bike, for non-dismantled bikes. It is not possible to reserve a space and even if you buy a bike ticket there's no guarantee you'll be able to get a space. As on many trains in Europe, you can take it for free if it's in a special bike carry case not exceeding certain dimensions (80 x 110 x 40 cms in this case). Most stations will look after your case for 24 hours for you, while you go off and explore. The Trenitalia website lists which international services you can take a bike onto - the cost on these trains is €12. The Netherlands Dutch Railways (Nederlandse Spoorwegen, or NS) allows bikes to be carried in designated parts of the train, as long as they do not cause an obstruction. Some peak time restrictions apply, and a bike ticket costs around €6 per day. The conditions of carriage are on the NS website. Norway Most Norwegian trains have a designated storage area for bicycles; prebook at an NSB station or by calling +47 815 00 888. It costs around half the price of a standard ticket, up to a maximum of NOK 175 (around £19). Spain Renfe allows passengers on regional (Media Distancia) trains to take their bikes for free when space allows. If there are five or more of you, you need to arrange it in advance. On night-time and long distance services, you can take bikes only in a family sleeper cabin, if you are the sole occupier/s of the cabin, and it must have a cover. The number of spaces on each of the 12 urban networks (Cercanias) varies but, again, is free of charge. Sweden SJ (Statens Jarnvagar) charges SEK 149 (around £13) per bicycle, and you need to buy your bike ticket by midnight the day before you wish to travel; call +46 771 75 75 75 or go into an SJ office. The number of bikes which can be taken onboard varies by route, and by season. All year round, the Alvesta–Kalmar–Alvesta line allows up to nine bikes to be carried; the Varberg–Borås–Uddevalla line allows three, and Göteborg–Skee, four. Look out for discounted rates in the summer. Switzerland On Swiss Federal Railways (SBB), passengers can take bikes onboard if space allows; you need to buy a special bike ticket which costs CHF 15 (about £9) per day. There are around 80,000 free-of-charge bike parking spaces at train stations across the country, with more on the way by 2012. There are some staffed bike parks for greater security. In a proper carry case, bikes can be taken on as hand luggage free of charge at all times, and the SBB website also has details on how you can send your bike on ahead as luggage. Swiss Railways also runs Rent A Bike, with bikes available to rent at 80 stations across Switzerland. Passengers booking train travel and bike hire together get a discount of up to 20% on cycle hire. Folding bikes: Travelling by rail around Europe with your bike can be complicated, with every country having its own policy on fees and restrictions. However, few trains will refuse to let you take a bike if it is dismantled and carried in a special bike bag as normal luggage. Bike bags range from about £90 for a soft bike bag one up to about £200 for a hard case bike bag. They are a good investment, since you should be able to take it on almost all trains in Europe free of charge, as long as it looks reasonably suitcase-like. >> More information: The European Cyclists' Federation campaigns for railway companies in Europe to make it easier for cyclists to transport bikes. The website also has details of EuroVelo - a cross-Europe cycle network project. For lots of fantastic holidays by bike, see Cycling Holidays Reachable By Train.

As we launched our Green Traveller's Guide to the Isle of Wight AONB, this summer, Green Traveller headed back to Bestival to have fun in the sun on the Isle of Wight and find out about all the initiatives in place to help make it a greener festival Every year, over 50,000 people head to Robin Hill Country Park on the Isle of Wight for a 4-day party featuring big headline acts and 88 acres of pure entertainment. One of the best things about Bestival, and its family-friendly younger sibling Camp Bestival, is that there’s something for everyone. Whilst difficult to leave the main stage, this year it became home to Stevie Wonder, Florence and the Machine, Orbital, New Order, The XX and lots more; it’s only when you go further afield that you see Bestival’s true colours. From raving in the Bollywood themed tent, lazing in hammocks dotted throughout the ambient forest, catching an old classic in the secret cinema, learning to waltz and getting involved in a political rap off, there was never a dull moment. And on top of all that, Bestival 2012 has to be remembered for the 4 days of solid sunshine! Unlike plenty of other festivals, the team behind Bestival and Camp Bestival seriously take on board the responsibility that comes with putting on such a mammoth event. A big part of that responsibility is related to the environment – minimisng the negative impact of thousands of people travelling to and living in fields for a few days, alongside using the festival as a platform for education and engagement. Here are some of our favourite green initiatives: The Big Green Coach Company: Coach travel is approximately four times more environmentally friendly than getting in a car to go to a music festival. The Big Green Coach Company was set up to promote this fact and make coach travel to and from festivals easier and cheaper. In 2010, the total amount of carbon saved by people using Big Green Coach rather than car was 13,000KG - the equivalent of 928,531 boiling kettles worth of energy! Tomorrow’s world: This year Bestival set up a whole field dedicated to inspiring and educating people about the importance of a green and sustainable future. The farmer’s market was the perfect spot to stock up on local goods including crab and chips, corn on the cob and BestiBrew Ale before checking out the acts on the solar powered bandstand. For anyone wanting to swat-up the Besti-versity tent featured talks from Greenpeace’s UK director John Sauven and WaterAid’s Sandy Stallen and, in the Science Tent, Keele University set up renewable energy demonstrations. Tea for Trash: Unfortunately vast amounts of rubbish and festivals go hand-in-hand. However, Bestival does its best to keep the site tidy and recycles as much as possible. Every year each campsite has a central hub where a member of the Green Team will be ready to hand out recycling bags and give you a free cup of tea if you hand a full one back – so everyone’s a winner! Instead of bins, recycling stations are dotted around the site, making it impossible to throw things away without putting them in the correct recycling bin. The festival aims for zero landfill and ensures all non-recyclable waste goes to the Isle of Wight’s gasification plant to be converted from waste to energy. Local sourcing: Bestival makes a genuine commitment to source as much as possible from the local area including food traders, staging and sound equipment, staff, marquees and production vehicles. The Isle of Wight’s leading eco tourism organisation, Eco Island, helps out on this front and also provides the festival with solar-powered charging stations. Whilst Bestival has plenty to boast about when it comes to green initiatives, individuals have to do their bit too. Next time you head off to a festival make your experience a little greener by travelling by public transport, taking a reusable bottle for tap water on site, using the compost toilets and taking everything away with you. Exploring a festival’s local area is also a good idea, giving you the chance to support the local economy and avoid busy transport times. If heading to Bestival next year why not combine it with some time on the Isle of Wight? Shuttle buses run from the festival to Newport, which being only 15 minutes away is a great little town to stock up on supplies or take a break from the hoards in a local café. If you want to spend a couple of days on the island once the festival has finished Newport’s tourist office and bus station will help you with transport. We wound down our festival experience on Sandwich beach sleeping in the sun, dipping in and out of the sea and munching on fish and chips – the perfect way to refresh and relax before heading back to reality! For more reviews of Bestival 2012 and info about next year’s festival go to www.bestival.net. For information about Camp Bestival see our article Festival Fun on the Jurassic Coast For more information about travelling to the Isle of Wight, check out our guide on taking the ferry from Portsmouth to Fishbourne or the ferry from Lymington to Yarmouth. 
Read also Greentraveller's guide to the Car-free scheme on the Isle of Wight and for package and coach travel contact the Big Green Coach Company.

David Atkinson follows in the footsteps of George Borrow, whose 19th-century travelogue Wild Wales is now available as an app, allowing walkers to retrace the author's route from Chester. George Borrow’s Wild Wales is not an easy read. The travelogue, first published in 1862, is hardly a page-turner by today’s standards and the author’s views are very much of the era. But the Wild Wales app from digital interpretation specialists Audiotrails.co.uk is bringing new life to Borrow’s scholarly quest for understanding of the Welsh language and culture, highlighting the colourful landscape and legends behind his purple prose through use of shorter soundbites from the book that are more suitable for a 21st Century audience. “Wild Wales is a great slow travel book — even if Borrow sets himself high on a pedestal,” says Mike Smart, organsier of the Llangollen Walking Festival, which will next year include a Borrow-inspired walk to the Ceiriog Valley. I had come to North Wales to find out more, setting off from Chester as Borrow did to walk sections of the Wild Wales trail around Llangollen and the Dee Valley Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Setting off from Chester Borrow, his wife and daughter arrived in Chester by train in July 1854. He describes the bustling street around Northgate and The Rows, the twin-level shopping parade, both of which remain to this day. After a couple of days he embarked on his odyssey, walking some 20 miles on the first day from Chester across the Welsh border to Llangollen, where he made his base. “I felt very happy — and no wonder,” he wrote. “The morning was beautiful, the birds sang merrily, and I was bound for Wales.” I made my own base at Geufron Hall, a homely B&B with a strong environmental policy, set on a widescreen-view hillside overlooking the vibrant North Walian town. “Whereas the surrounding landscape can be quite inhospitable, the Dee Valley feels like a safe haven for travellers,” said owner Beth Boyce, laying out a hearty breakfast of homemade granola and scrambled eggs from the hens wandering her flower-strewn garden. “But Llangollen also had a freewheeling border-town feel with a bohemian undercurrent,” she added. Town trail Borrow was probably attracted by the bohemian reputation of the town in the mid 19th century, inspired by the story of the Ladies of Llangollen, who had eloped to the town from Ireland. The elderly ladies received artists and writers such as Wordsworth and Lord Byron at their stately mansion, Plas Newydd around 1800. Llangollen remains a bustling cultural centre to this day with the Llangollen International Musical Eisteddfod opening its doors July 7 and the annual Fringe Festival running July 16-26 this year. I set out, armed with my iPad, to explore. Having downloaded the Llangollen trail as part of the app, I wanted to retrace Borrow’s footsteps to locate the tumbledown old cottage where the family lodged during August 1854. The five-mile circular trail lead me out of town from the tourist information centre, crossing the sturdy stone bridge over to the River Dee and out on the Ruabon Road. I soon spotted the sign for Dee Cottage, peeking at the privately owned property from the roadside as if Borrow was about to stride through the door. The trail lead me back into town to walk along the canal towpath from Llangollen Wharf to the Horseshoe Falls, then looped back round to explore the atmospheric ruins of Vale Crucis Abbey. I felt as if on set for the TV drama Wolf Hall. Stream in the sky Later I followed another of Borrow’s walks, heading four miles along the Llangollen Canal to the Unesco World Heritage Site, which stretches from Llangollen to Chirk with the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct at its heart. This feet of Victorian engineering was supervised by the engineer Thomas Telford and completed in 1805 using local stone. A local man took Borrow to see the aqueduct, proclaiming it, “The greatest bridge on earth”. Today it remains the tallest navigable aqueduct in the world and the gravity-defying route some 125ft above the River Dee a favourite stretch of the Llangollen Canal for narrow boat holidays — hence known as the “stream in the sky”. Ancient spirits But of the paths and trails around Llangollen, the most evocative walk for me was the energetic yomp to Castell Dinas Bran, the ancient ruined castle set high above the town. The current structure is believed to date from the 12th century but it served an Iron Age hill fort before that. The view from the summit was spectacular: Llangollen below, Offa’s Dyke National Trail to the north, the Berwyn and Clwydian ranges meeting on the horizon. “People still come here as a place of spiritual pilgrimage,” said walking guide Andrew Parish who joined me for the evening stroll to the summit, taking in the panorama just as Borrow would have done on August 2, 1854. “Dinas Bran is a place shrouded in folklore. It is linked to the Welsh princes, the legends of King Arthur and maybe even as a place of sacrifice.” We could almost touch the pristine-blue sky, dipping our fingertips into candyfloss clouds as the ancient spirits circled around us. Borrow left Llangollen on October 21, 1854 to continue his odyssey to south Wales but the view from Dinas Bran would have encapsulated for him the sense of discovery of his quest. On a summer’s evening above Llangollen, the wonders of Wild Wales beckon to us all. by David Atkinson More info: Wild Wales app: www.audiotrails.co.uk/wildwales

Green Tourism (was formerly known as The Green Tourism Business Scheme - GTBS) is a national sustainable tourism grading scheme in the UK that has been endorsed by VisitEngland, VisitScotland and VisitWales and has been validated by the International Centre for Responsible Tourism since 2008. Operated by a not-for-profit organisation, Green Business, there are over 2,300 GTBS members throughout the UK and Ireland. Businesses are graded by qualified environmental assessors and can benefit from significant marketing advantage and reduced running costs of up to 20%. Green Traveller has visited and filmed over 100 Green Tourism graded businesses in the UK, writing, photographing and filming the businesses as part of our Green Travel Guides series. Here's a video that explains how video can be used to to promote green tourism businesses: More information about how it works and all its members, see green-tourism.com/members

Nicola Forsyth describes this 9-night self-guided, walking holiday taking you across the Atlantic Pyrenees to the Spanish Coastal city of San Sebastián. In a nutshell: Make your way across the French Pyrenees to Spain’s stunning coastal city of San Sebastián, enjoying the stunning mountain views, Basque villages and delicious cuisine en route, while your bags are transferred ahead. You may even spot a bird of prey as the journey takes in their migration route. Nights: 9 Price: £1,380 per person What's included: 9 nights at eight selected hotels (one country inn; two 2-star hotels; two 3-star hotels; three 4-star hotels); your luggage transported for you from hotel to hotel; route notes and maps; transfers to the start of the walks on two days; 6 dinners; 6 picnics; 9 breakfasts. Departures: May, June, July, September, October. Nearest station to start of trip: Bayonne Nearest station to end of trip: Hendaye (at the Spanish border) How to travel by train to Bayonne: It's easy to travel from London to Bayonne by train. You have to change stations in Paris from Gare du Nord to Montparnasse, which can take about half an hour on the Paris metro (though we recommend you leave at least 50 minutes for the entire transfer - see our guide to How to transfer between train stations across Paris). For more details on the train journey from London to Bayonne, including some suggestions for where to stay near the train station in Paris if you want to break up the journey and spend more time in Paris, see our flight-free journey planner: Train from London to Bayonne. Optional extra: Shorten the journey to 7 nights (from £1,075pp). What's the trip like: Start your walking holiday, with a choice of two routes (12.5km or 13.5km) from your start point of St Etienne to Bidarray. The longer route (6hrs; ascent/descent 1000m) starts with an ascent through woodland to the Harietta Pass (on the border with Spain), which gives way to stunning views of the Pyrenean chain before descending to Bidarray where you will reach your destination, Hotel Barberaenea. The shorter option (5hrs; ascent/descent 640m) is a lower level alternative to the east of the Iparla ridge, taking you across open moorland through connecting hamlets and farms with pretty views of the valleys. Day 2 offers two routes from Bidarray to Itxassou (19.5km, 7.5hrs; ascent 1105m/descent 1160m; shorter option: 14km, 5.5hrs; ascent 685m/descent 740m) taking you towards to the summit of Mount Artzamendi (926 metres) where the High Pyrenees can be seen on clear days. Pass along the River Nive to Itxassou, passing the Pas de Roland, a hole in the rock - which was allegedly carved out by Roland to let Charlemagne's army pass through - before arriving at the Hotel du Fronton. The shorter option bypasses the climb to Artzamendi. On Day 3 you will leave Itxassou by walking the route to Ainhoa (14.5km, 5.5hrs; ascent 715m, descent 695m), which passes under the Pic de Mondarrain (749 metres). The descent offers beautiful views of villages and the Atlantic before arriving at Hotel Argi Eder in Ainhoa. Leaving the pretty Basque village of Ainhoa on Day 4 you will take the gentle walk to Sare (13km, 4.5hrs; ascent 330m/descent 405m). Follow country lanes, passing tiny hamlets, to reach the Hotel Arraya. The next day (Day 5) you will continue to Biriatou (18km, 6hrs; ascent 460m/descent 1250m) where a cog railway will take you to the summit of La Rhune (900 metres), for views of the Bay of Biscay, Les Landes and the Pyrenean chain. From here you will cross into Spain before crossing the Ibardin Pass back through France before resting up at Les Jardins de Bakea for the night. On Day 6 make the journey through coastal paths to Hondarribia (17.5km, 6hrs; ascent 395m/descent 830m) where you will stay at the Hotel Obispo. Marvel at the old Basque houses of the Old Town and explore the Barrio de la Marina district in search of the delicious array of tapas and seafood on offer. The next day (Day 7) you will walk to your final destination of San Sebastián (21km, 7.5hrs; ascent 865m/descent 995m), ending at Hotel Niza, a stones throw to the Playa de la Concha. Make the most of this gastronomic city that boasts the highest number of Michelin stars per capita, making sure to book ahead - or try a txititeo (pintxo crawl). Afterall, you’ve earned it! Day 8 involves a full and final day exploring the coastal city - that’s if you can tear yourself away from the gastronomical delights! How to enquire/book this holiday: This holiday is provided by Inntravel, one of the founding tour operator members of Green Traveller. One of the great things about this holiday is its flexibility: you have a choice of start/end dates and you can add additional nights on to the itinerary. If you'd like to know more about this holiday, please see more details on the relevant page given below and if you'd like to book it, do contact them directly or complete their booking form and a member of their team will be in touch with you. Book this walking holiday across the French Pyrenees to the Spanish coast >> Bon Voyage!

Sarah Baxter travels to the French region of Caen via train, ferry and bike, discovering the green spaces and rich history of this often overlooked destination And relax... As the train pulled up at Portsmouth Harbour station, disgorging me amid the tallship masts of the city’s historic dockyard, I felt the adventure beginning. Soon after, cabin-cosy aboard the overnight MV Normandie, bound across the Channel for Caen, I was definitely on holiday. One night’s sleep, then breakfast on the continent... I’m not a keen driver, nor lover of airports. So heading to Normandy via train and ferry was ideal, not to mention easy and extremely efficient. By 7am, unstressed and rested, I was on French soil, seeking my first croissant. Ouistreham, the port city of Caen, was just warming up. Golden light played on the Pointe du Siège nature reserve and the boats bobbing at the mouth of the River Orne. The rising sun also cast a glow on the long, sandy strand: Sword Beach, easternmost of the D-Day landing sites, taken on the fateful morning of 6 June 1944 by British and Free French troops. Now, though, all was quiet, save the whirling gulls and the flags of many nations flapping in the breeze. I sipped coffee, watching the place awaken, before collecting my wheels – a sky-blue bicycle – and riding west along the beach. It was flat, delightful going, with the sea to one side, handsome villas to the other and few other people: another cyclist with a dog in her basket, a man riding a horse-cart along the sand. At Lion-sur-Mer I parked my bike to explore on foot. In summer 2018, the little town launched an audio-guided walk with a GPS embedded parasol and, as I strolled with the smart-umbrella, I heard Lion in soundscape, ears filled with bygone market traders, laughing children, casino bustle. I also heard the stories of people who’ve lived here for decades: memories of Edith Piaf staying at art nouveau Villa Louis, of the muscle boats hauling ashore 40 sacks a day, of the timber-frame house that survived the war, though lost its chandelier when a shell blew in one side and out the other. After my walk, I rode back to Ouistreham and picked up the Vélo Francette. This cycle path leads all the way to La Rochelle, over 600km south, but I was following only the first, traffic-free 15km along the canal to Caen. Nostrils full of sea salt, I glided beside the duck-dabbled waterway. A few people were fishing, a few were foraging for berries; several more were drinking outside Café Gondré, the first building to be liberated in June 1944 as the Allies took the adjacent Bénouville – aka Pegasus – Bridge. Memorials to the troops now line the far bank. I pressed on, and soon arrived in Caen. The city was put on the map in 1060, when William the Conqueror made it his main base, building a huge castle-fortress here; he’s buried in Caen’s huge Abbaye-aux-Hommes while wife Matilda lies in the equally impressive Abbaye-aux-Dames. Caen has taken a battering in the centuries since, not least from Second World War bombs, and many motorists drive off the ferry and give it a miss. But I was in no rush. And I’m glad I stuck around. For a start, the city was pleasingly green. Cycle paths sneak around the centre while parks and grassy spots pop up around corners, behind walls and beneath castles. I hired a kayak and paddled south along the Orne, and within a few minutes I’d lost the streets. My watery way was flanked by weeping willows, mansion gardens and the expansive Prairie plain, formerly farmland and an urban lung where locals come to race horses and amble beneath the trees. This river, so instrumental in William settling in Caen, and of such strategic importance during the 1944 Battle of Normandy, was now a tranquil place to float. Just me, the quick-skipping pond-skaters and the wading moorhens. If I continued this way I’d eventually end up in the lush hills of ‘Norman Switzerland’ – a tempting prospect. But in the end I turned back, keen to find the green within the city itself. There are many appealing spaces, from the gardens of the Caen Mémorial, dotted with sites honouring those who died during the war, to the quiet cloisters of William’s abbey, but my favourite was a more accidental find. Passing the lively pavement tables of Place St-Sauveur, heading north via the Fossés Saint Julien (home to a large Friday market) and streets of 19th-century houses, I found the Cimetière des 4 Nations. One of Caen’s ‘sleeping cemeteries’ – no longer used for burials and seemingly untended – the high-walled graveyard was macabrely serene. I walked along empty, leafy avenues of leaning and fallen headstones, ivy-draped memorials and crosses gnawed by rust. It felt less like a cemetery than a film set (indeed, François Truffaut once set a movie here). And it seemed to sum up the city itself: green, historically layered, bearing the scars of the past, but a secret worth finding. More information: For further information on Normandy, visit www.normandy-tourism.org For further information on Caen and Ouistreham, visit www.caenlamer-tourisme.fr Book your accommodation in Normandy with Sawdays: www.sawdays.co.uk/france/normandy Book your transport to Normandy with Brittany Ferries: www.brittany-ferries.co.uk Words and photos by Sarah Baxter == Disclosure: Sarah Baxter was a guest of Normandy Tourism and Brittany Ferries. Sarah had full editorial control of the review, which is written in her own words based on her experience of visiting Caen in the late summer of 2018 for Greentraveller's Guide to Normandy. All opinions are the author's own.

From the sandy beaches and coastal towns of Costa Brava to the snowy forests and towering peaks of Val d’Aran, Greentraveller’s bloggers Richard Hammond and Holly Rooke travelled with photographer Chris Willan through the wonderfully diverse landscapes of northern Catalonia into the Pyrenees. The trip was featured on Twitter and Instagram using the hashtags #CatalunyaExperience #Visitpirineus. Below are some of the highlights of the trip. Watch our video of the trip: 1935 Hotel & Apartments Our first night was a great introduction to Catalan cuisine. In our opinion, the food in Catalonia is as good as you’ll find anywhere. Here’s a taste of what was on offer: Salt cod fritters with red sweet peppers marmalade and lemon purée; Sautéed artichokes in garlic sauce with “Paletilla ibérica de cebo’; Lamb’s lettuce salad with apple, parmesan, walnuts and raisins; Rock octopus with teriyaki sauce, potatoes and mushrooms creamy parmentier, sesame and seaweed salad; Duck confit thigh with ratafia sauce, green apple and cardamom oil with powder of citrus. Yum! Cadaqués Proclaimed by Dali to be “the most beautiful town in the world”, nowadays Cadaqués is a popular seaside bolthole for wealthy Barcelonians. But while holiday homes here go for a pricey sum, the town still retains its age-old charm with narrow, cobbled steep streets, white and blue buildings, and a wonderful sweeping waterfront. Castelfollit de la Roca Perched atop a 50m-high crag, originally formed by lava flows thousands of years ago, this small village is a spectacular sight from a distance, even more so against a backdrop of the brilliant morning light. We ambled around the town in the sunshine stopping to climb the bell tower of the 13th-century Sant Salvador church with wonderful view of the town’s jumble of terracotta roofs snaking down the outcrop and into the distant hills. Besalú At the entrance to this well-preserved town is the magnificent Romanesque bridge, whose seven arches and two gated towers span the Fluvià river (Besalú means ‘fort on a mountain between two rivers’ – the other river, the Capellades, flows to the north). At the far end of the Besalú bridge, ancient cobbles lead off into a maze of meandering streets lined with shops selling all sorts of handicrafts and produce. Poking our heads through the door of one we're met with the warming aroma of fragrant herbs and spices, the walls of the stamp-sized shop stocked to the rafters with teas and coffees; in another, local hams hang in the window and rounds of cheese jostle for space on the counter below. The famous mikveh (Jewish bath), with its beautiful vaulted ceiling, is incredibly well preserved despite its 900-year history – forgotten for centuries, it was only rediscovered in the 1960s during construction on a neighbouring building. Mas Garganta On the outskirts of the natural park, approximately 16km west of Santa Pau, the 14th-century Mas Garganta is run by the affable Inis. There are 12 simple, comfortable bedrooms at the ‘casa rural’, a wonderful farmhouse kitchen with huge fireplace, a lovely pool, and mountain views from every angle. Despite the evening chill and the roaring fire indoors, we couldn’t tear ourselves away from the valley views and instead sat out on the terrace feasting late into the night. Clip of the exterior of Mas Garganta: Beget Wandering around the virtually empty village (no cars permitted) had the feeling of being on a film set, with stone bridges spanning the river, houses with carved wooden balconies and photo opportunities at every corner. We had a stroll around the Sant Cristòfol church – a typical 12th-century Romanesque church with a wonderful 2.7m-high wooden carving and a four-storey bell tower. Zoo del Pirineu Nestled high in the mountains outside Cabrils, Zoo del Pirineu is a sanctuary for injured, mistreated or abandoned animals. After coffee and entrepà de truita (huge baguettes filled with hot omelette), we met the director, Stania Kuspertova, who moved to Catalonia from the Czech Republic and set up the project with her family. As well as making it a fun place to visit, Stania is committed to using the site to educate visitors on the local environment, and all the residents at the zoo – from a young and very friendly deer called (of course) Bambi, to an impressive collection of owls, vultures and eagles – are native to the Pyrenees. While we were there, we witnessed some of their birds of prey flying overhead, a spectacular sight that was made even more impressive by the dramatic mountainous backdrop and the wild vultures circling overhead. Dogsledding in Val d’Aran The sight of perfectly white snow is exciting at any time, but perhaps no more so than when you're about to be hurtling through it behind twelve huskies. Near a ski resort in Val d’Aran, Montgarri Outdoor offer dogsledding trips to those wanting to explore the wintry landscape without strapping on skis. Right at the beginning of December, we were the dogs' first outing of the winter, and, after training all summer, their enthusiasm was matched only by that of the musher and self-proclaimed ‘alpha of the pack’, Marc. The cacophony of barks ceased as soon as the running began and, as we glided silently into the Narnia-like forest, Marc’s love of the activity was easy to understand. Vall de Boí This beautiful church, in the tiny village of Taüll in the Vall de Boí, a narrow valley in Lleida province, is one of nine similar churches in the valley, the highest concentration of Romanesque architecture to be found anywhere in Europe. Inside the building is a magnificent piece of Catalan Romanesque painting, a copy of the original which is on display in the National Museum of Catalan Art. Lake Montcortes Our final days in Catalonia were spent walking a section of El Cinquè Llac (‘the Fifth Lake’), a five-day hiking route between tiny villages and around unimaginably beautiful lakes in the foothills of the Pyrenees. An impressive example of sustainable tourism, the money generated by the scheme is being used to protect and conserve the local area, funding projects such as the restoration of traditional dry-stone walls and investment in local food producers. Núria, Mireia and Ramon, some of the organisers behind the enterprise, showed us their highlights of the route, and took us for a traditional picnic lunch beside the eponymous fifth lake, which walkers reach on their last day. As well as the scenery, the route is impressive for the way it allows visitors to connect with the landscape and the history of the region. One notable example of this is the shepherd’s staff, which, given to all walkers on arrival, is then marked each night to signify the completion of that day’s walking. Ramon explained to me that, as the paths travelled by the hikers are traditionally shepherd’s paths, the staff is “a way to connect visitors to the reality of the territory, and to give them an insight into its history and traditions”. While walking the route, we were lucky enough to meet Josep, one of the last shepherds in the area still using traditional farming methods, who gave us a perfect demonstration of the staff in action. Compiled by Richard Hammond and Holly Rooke with additional research by Florence Fortnam. Disclosure: Richard Hammond, Holly Rooke and Chris Willan were guests of the Catalan Tourist Board. Richard and Holly had full editorial control of the review, which is written in their own words based on their experience of visiting Catalonia in the winter of 2017. All opinions are the authors' own.

Not just for potential Olympians, dedicated swim clinic weekend courses at the Watergate Bay Hotel in Cornwall are designed to help any level of swimmer improve their technique. Here’s what the course did for me. Cornwall’s Watergate Bay Hotel, just east of Newquay, has been a somewhat shape-shifting beacon of coastal hospitality for generations. Built in Victorian times as a railway hotel for a stretch of track that never reached it, it has been owned by the Ashworth family since the 1960s. For most of those years it operated as a classic, family-friendly seaside hotel but the last 10 or so have seen it reinvented once more. This time the hotel has cleverly tapped into the way surfing, wild swimming, cycling and triathlons have gone mainstream, offering outdoor activities (in a very relaxed way - think ski resort rather than training camp) as an add-on to stylish, pampering accommodation that comes with great food and a dedicated Kids’ Zone (including an Ofsted-registered play room, an outdoor play area, a separate games room for older children and supervised activity sessions twice a day). Guests who want to tap into the sporting facilities will find everything on the doorstep (including a watersports hire and tuition outfit) while their partners and families can either join them or occupy themselves with less energetic pursuits before re-connecting at the end of the day for what regulars call the hotel’s après-surf scene: fine wines overlooking the waves in the Ocean Room bar; grilled plaice with cockles, samphire, parsley, lemon and brown butter in Zacry’s Restaurant, perhaps – or similarly fine food with an ethical flavour at Fifteen Cornwall, two minutes’ walk away; a burger or local mussels at The Beach Hut; or just a stroll, or a post-tea play, on the two mile-long beach below the hotel. One other big attraction of the hotel is its stunning 25m swimming pool, with dramatic floor-to-ceiling windows (get the angle right and it’s tricky to work out where the pool ends and the sea begins). The hotel capitalises on this several times a year by hosting dedicated Swim Clinic weekends run by experienced professional swimming teacher Salim Ahmed, of Swim Lab. I’m a keen swimmer, regularly swimming in my local pool and rivers, and when I get the chance, in open water but I was intrigued by Salim’s promise to help anyone improve their technique. I duly signed up and headed down to Cornwall to join one of his weekends. Running from Friday evening to Sunday lunchtime (with tuition on the Saturday and Sunday but free access to the pool across the weekend), each course mixes classroom tuition with time in the water; expect three one-hour classroom sessions and three one-hour pool sessions plus a yoga class, a group hike along the coast and plenty of free time. Salim also makes himself available after the Saturday afternoon sessions for ongoing discussion. Our group of six began in the classroom on the Saturday morning (over smoothies, porridge, fresh croissants, strawberry jam and steaming cups of coffee) with a run-through of the whys and wherefores of good swimming technique. Proving his point that these courses can help all levels of swimmer Salim showed us a video of a student in another class who had “the perfect technique” (for them – the perfect technique, we discovered, varies from person to person). This was a great way to ease us into the course – and quell any nerves – because this person wasn’t an Olympic swimmer. They weren’t even particularly fast. The point was that they looked effortless in the water. The next step was to assess the individual technique of everyone in the group. Some of us were intermediate swimmers, others more advanced, but we all needed to figure out exactly where any issues might be so that we could make sure we all got the basics right, and could pinpoint individual areas for improvement. To do that, we headed to the swimming pool, where Salim filmed us (above and below the water), then ran back through the footage with us. This was a fantastic way to learn. We all thought we could swim pretty well in our group but, having watched our videos, we immediately understood where we were going wrong. In my case I was shocked to realise how little I was using my legs when I swam. Having to focus and absorb information for several hours can be exhausting and Salim understood this, so the next activity on the schedule was a complete break – a group walk along the coastline. Not only was this a clever change of pace – and a welcome dose of fresh air – but there was a tangible feeling of the group beginning to relax with each other, and bond a little. This isn’t an athlete’s training camp after all. The courses are meant to be mini holidays, too – albeit holidays with a focus – which is why they take place in such scenic, pampering, surroundings, with access to lovely food and drink and stylish accommodation. Many of our group had come with partners or families in tow and being at Watergate Bay meant everyone in that wider circle was also having an enjoyable experience. Over the next day or so this pattern of lessons, practical sessions and downtime was repeated. Salim’s relaxed but knowledgeable teaching was first-class and I came away feeling that I had improved my technique immeasurably, much of that down to the underwater filming and subsequent analysis. The other crucial point I took away was how anyone can learn something from Salim’s expert eye, not just experienced swimmers. As for me, I’ve since put Salim’s coaching into practice on a few longer open-water swims (such as the Bantham Swoosh) and I can’t quite believe how much I learnt from it. Would I recommend it? Absolutely – dive in! The next Swim Lab swim clinics take place at Watergate Bay’s newly opened Lake District sister hotel, Another Place – The Lake, in September and October and at Watergate Bay in November and December. Prices start from £170pp without accommodation or £310pp with accommodation (in which case breakfasts are included but not lunches or dinners); watergatebay.co.uk

Jini Reddy, author of a new book Wild Times, picks out a few of her favourite travel experiences in the UK that connect us with nature and provide a sense of place The Ancient Coastal Paint Palette, North Yorkshire Coast In Britain, we’re evangelical about the joys of the seaside. But I reckon few of us can say we’ve experienced the coast in the spirit of our artistically inclined Neolithic ancestors. The earth, we seem to have forgotten, is an artist’s apothecary. But those who came before us understood this well: ochre was one of the first paints used by man. A 70,000-year-old ochre cave painting found in South Africa is thought to be the oldest work of art in the world. The mineral and fossil-rich cliffs and foreshore on Staithes Beach, on the North Yorkshire Coast, are the place to head for a day spent harvesting the earth pigment and creating a natural paint palette. The beach fronts a fishing village, once teeming with seafaring heroes and boasting of an artistic tradition that dates back to the 1800s. Today many artists still live in the village, including Tricia Huchinson, who, together with her husband Sean Baxter, a local fisherman, co-hosts the days. It starts with an exhilarating foreshore walk led by Sean to find and harvest the raw ochre pigment and ends with a session of prehistoric paint-making with Tricia round a headland on the beach at Port Mulgrave. Not only will she share her secrets, she (and Sean) will feed you to with a magnificent home-cooked seafood feast, featuring fresh lobster. The best bit? You absolutely don’t have to be Picasso to enjoy this: the day is all about the beach adventure and the slow enjoyment of the doing, not the end product. Real Staithes offer the one-day Ancient Paint Palette Day including lunch, through the year, both on set group and bespoke dates. The closest train station to Staithes is Saltburn-by-the-sea about 20 minutes away, on the branch line from Darlington served by Northern Rail. Whilst in Staithes, stay at Roraima House (rooms from £85 per night), in the upper part of the village. With notice, the owner can pick you up from the station, or the no.4 bus passes nearby. The Art of Horse Whispering, Dartmoor Wild herds or retired horses aside, rarely are horses allowed to roam freely and to live as a herd animal, as nature intended. By the same token, rarely do we get to spend time with horses without jumping into the saddle. Happily, hidden away on the edge of Dartmoor National Park, you can ‘join’ a herd and learn the compelling art of horse whispering. No riding skills needed, just a desire to connect with Harry, Arthur, William and Tristan, the handsome quartet who make the magic happen. Of course, they have a little help from their human companion, instructor Sue Blagburn, once a horse trainer and high-level competitor, trained in natural horsemanship. Connecting with horses in their natural environment is her passion and one she’s keen to share at her home at Middlestoke Farm, bordering Holne, a National Trust woodland. So what happens exactly on a session or day-long ‘retreat’? Some gentle exercises and mindful time with the horses designed to help you tune into the equine mind in more instinctual ways as well as an opportunity to walk one of the herd round a ring without a rope, ‘in partnership’: perserverence and zen levels of calm can lead to some truly exhilarating moments. Sue also leads walks on Dartmoor with the horses. Adventures with Horses offer one-to-one sessions, small-group adventure days and weekends throughout the year. Totnes is the nearest big town to Middle Stoke Farm, about 6km to the south east, served by Great Western Railway. From here you can take a taxi. Otherwise buses are available from Totnes station to Buckfastleigh (2.5km away) or Ashburton (3km away) with timetables and info on Traveline. From either town you can get a cab to Middle Stoke Farm. Try Ashburton Taxis (Tel: 01364 652423). Sue Blagburn can also arrange taxis to and from Totnes Station. The Nature Quest A solo fast in the wild: I can’t think of a more raw, direct way to plunge headlong into nature. This is a traditional rite of passage within many indigenous cultures: you immerse yourself in the elements, without food – as fasting is said to sharpen the senses, though you drink water – and return filled with insight and a sense of wonder reignited. The promise of transformation under open skies has, for many, proven irresistible. But how often do we get to venture forth in this way? Not very often, most of us would answer. Of course, this kind of experience needs proper guidance and preparation. In Britain, Way of Nature UK offer retreats that include supported solo time in nature. These escapes happen in locations that change from year to year so that founder-guides Adrian Kowal and Andres Roberts can keep things fresh. I’d experienced longer nature quests in previous years in the Pyrenees and the Sinai desert (with other ventures) but the gentle three-day retreat I try on a wildlife-rich farm near Wiltshire’s Salisbury Plain with the pair, amidst a landscape of rolling hills valleys and megalithic stone circles strikes me as the perfect introduction: two nights group camping in a hawthorn copse, communal picnic feasts and reflective time spent exploring how we might deepen our relationship with the wild, followed by a 24-hour period of solo camping and fasting. Trust me: when you’re lying in a meadow with the sun beating down and you lose a sense of yourself as separate from the sky, the earth and the flowers around you, it’s all worthwhile. Way of Nature UK host adventures around Britain and further afield, ranging from weekend to week-long excursions. The locations vary from year to year and aren’t always revisited. A Full-Moon Meander, Suffolk A full moon, shining in a clear night sky. How often have you craned your neck for a glimpse when this celestial body is at its peak? The moon is undeniably compelling and magical. Yet rarely do even the most ardent of nature lovers among us set out on a walk at nightfall with the light of the moon to guide us. Which is a shame. For in the witching hours our perspective on the world changes: a familiar landscape becomes terra incognita, full of shadows, bumps, textures and unfamiliar sounds and smells. There is surely no better way to experience its poetry than on a full-moon hike. To do this in good company, head to Suffolk. About 16km west of the beaches of Southwold and Walberswick, you’ll find the award-winning Ivy Grange Farm. Tranquil, eco-friendly and full of charm, this rural hideaway is the perfect retreat for low-impact glamping. Kim and Nick Hoare, the friendly couple who own and run the farm lead full-moon walks every month of the year. The route differs from month to month, although all hikes start within a 16km radius of the farm. Depending on the season, you could find yourself on a river, coastal, estuary, forest or heath walk – the one I went on was an 8km circular loop through Halesworth’s Millennium Green, a night of shape-shifting tree silhouettes, haunting tawny owl calls and silences as thick as molasses. Gentle meanders, rather than route marches, they last anything from two to three hours. Kim and Nick Hoare lead the full moon walks all year round, in all weathers, free of charge. In season you can glamp in one of five comfortable yurts in the meadow (from £100 per night). Between November and March, two rooms, including an en-suite are available at the farmhouse to those joining the walk. £75 per night, including a light evening meal and breakfast, as well as lifts to and from Brampton train station. Brampton train station is on the Lowestoft line from Ipswich served by Abellio East Anglia.