As we launch our Green Traveller's Guide to Northumberland National Park, here's our guide to travelling to and around Northumberland National Park without a car. Getting to Northumberland without a car: By Train: While Newcastle is not in the National Park, it is a major gateway city and is well connected by rail. East Coast links Edinburgh, York, Peterborough and London to Newcastle and Berwick-upon-Tweed; Virgin operates services from London, Manchester, Glasgow, Carlisle, Leeds, Sheffield, Birmingham and South West England; and Transpennine services serves Newcastle from Liverpool, Manchester, Leeds and York. From Newcastle, the Tyne Valley Line takes you into the southern part of Northumberland National Park, with stations close to Hadrian’s Wall World Heritage Site. Key stations for visitors are located at Wylam, Prudhoe, Stocksfield, Riding Mill, Corbridge, Hexham, Haydon Bridge, Bardon Mill and Haltwhistle. Trains are operated by Northern Rail and First ScotRail. By Coach or Bus: There are National Express and Megabus services from throughout the UK to Newcastle and Carlisle. From Newcastle or Carlisle, there are various Arriva, Go North East and Stagecoach services into the National Park, as well as a summer service called The Hadrian’s Wall Country Bus, which links major sites along the Hadrian’s Wall corridor between Newcastle and Carlisle (services operating out of both cities; more information below). B. Getting around without a car: By Train: The principal line of use for visitors to Northumberland National Park is the Tyne Valley Line, which links Newcastle and Carlisle with destinations along the Tyne Valley through Hadrian’s Wall country, a full list of useful stations can be found above. Though this line doesn’t cover the whole of the National Park, there are many inspiring walks to be made from the stations along the line, the national trail offers a selection of walks in the East Tyne Valley and walks in the West Tyne Valley, accessible by railway. By Bus: Part of the beauty of Northumberland National Park is its isolated, rural nature: this is a place where you can really escape to windswept hill and dark skies. The corresponding lack of population centres does however mean that much of the National Park remains beyond the reach of regular bus services. There are still some useful services for visitors, however most of these are concentrated in and around the more populated Tyne Valley to the south. Hadrian’s Wall Country Bus The flagship bus service for Northumberland National Park is the AD122 Hadrian’s Wall Country Bus (commemorating the year in which construction of the Wall commenced). Running from Easter throughout the summer, it operates a hop-on, hop-off system of ‘rover’ tickets with a one-, three-, and seven-day pricing structure (reductions for students, children, and families); the tickets are also valid on some other local routes such as the 10, 185, 880 and Tynedale Links. There is also provision to carry bikes, if pre-booked (more information below). The AD122 runs between Newcastle and Carlisle, stopping at Corbridge, Hexham, Once Brewed National Park Visitor Centre, Haltwhistle, Gilsland, Brampton, and various points in between: see the timetable. Other bus services 10/10A: Hexham - Corbridge - Stocksfield - Prudhoe - Rockwood Hill (10A) - Greenside (10A) - Crawcrook - Ryton - Blaydon - Metrocentre - Newcastle 14/X14: Newcastle - Morpeth (for East Coast mainline and local railway services) - Thropton (located just to the east of the National Park). Service offering access to the northern parts of the National Park. 185: Carlisle – Brampton – Gilsland – Haltwhistle 685 Carlisle – Newcastle and X85 Hexham - Newcastle 808: Newcastle – Otterburn 880: Hexham – Bellingham (- Kielder) Tynedale Links runs various local services to rural areas of the Tyne Valley. National Express 383 services connects Newcastle with Edinburgh through Northumberland National Park, stopping at Otterburn and Byrness. Cycling Mile after mile of wonderful country lanes offering spectacular views, with barely a vehicle in sight: this is what awaits cyclists in Northumberland. Combined with extensive off-road trails, cycle hubs, and well-marked routes, Northumberland is a cyclist’s dream – from families looking for quiet, flat roads to mountain bikers seeking a challenge and a thrill. If you want to bring your two-wheeled friend along, all mainline train services (and many local ones) have spaces for bikes, but to avoid problems or disappointment, it is always best to reserve your spot in advance. To do this, you can either call the train operator, or head to your local railway station’s ticket office. The majority of buses in the area do not take bikes, however it may occasionally be possible at the drivers’ discretion. One notable exception is the AD122 Hadrian’s Wall Country Bus: however you must contact the service operator before 3pm the day before intended travel – click here for contact numbers. If you want to hire a bike upon arrival in Northumberland, or get hold of maps and useful advice and information, there is a wide range of cycle provision on offer both in the National Park and around (in places such as Newcastle). Check out the National Park’s visitor website for a full list of bike hire and cycle providers. Two of the major long distance cycle routes which run through Northumberland National Park are the Pennine Cycleway and Reivers Cycle Route; the National Park also boasts two cycle hubs at Wooler (starting point for the Wooler Wheel, a scenic cycle ‘challenge’ through the Cheviot Hills) and Haltwhistle. Around Bellingham, the lovely Kielder Forest boasts a wonderful array of routes for cyclists of different abilities, plus its own cycle challenge. Sustrans offers great information and route ideas for cyclists and sustainable travellers in Northumberland and beyond, and for a wealth of information and links to cycle resources, have a look at Northumberland National Park cycling page. Electric Vehicles The National Park also has a network of electric vehicle charging posts, from Hadrian’s Wall to the Cheviots and the Scottish border. Why not recharge your batteries with a lovely walk in the hills, whilst your car does the same! Maps and further information On the official Park website there's an interactive map of the Northumberland National Park. For more maps, plus a whole host more information, guides and friendly local advice, head to the award-winning Once Brewed National Park Centre. There are also several other tourist information centres in the National Park and surrounding area. For more information about visiting Northumberland National Park, see the websites of the Northumberland National Park and Visit Nortumberland.

As we launch our Green Traveller's Guide to Northumberland National Park, Jo Keeling explores Hadrian’s Wall by foot and on the AD122 bus, making sense of the geology that underpins this immense human endeavour and reimagining life on the northern edge of the Roman empire The yellow  bus skips along the B6318 – the military road that cuts a fairly straight Roman line just south of Hadrian’s Wall. To my right, walkers are silhouetted on the brow of the hill as they make their way along the 84-mile National Trail, running coast to coast from the River Tyne to the Solway Firth. I disembark at the Twice Brewed Inn, already humming with ramblers. The origins of this pub’s name are somewhat woolly – one story links it back to Yorkist foot soldiers who demanded stronger beer on the eve of the Battle of Hexham in 1464; others refer to the way Hadrian’s Wall snakes its way along the brows (or brews) of the two hills opposite. Either way, the pub provides me with a cracking packed lunch of freshly-made sandwiches wrapped in foil, and now I'm ready to join the trail, heading east on the most dramatic section of the Wall. Climbing up to Steel Rigg, I'm not greeted by acres of vast moorland, as I'd expected, but a wealth of colour. The light beaming down between the thick grey-blue clouds seems to coax out the richness of purple thistle heads pushing through bracken, vivid pink foxgloves and the soft violet hues of the far too delicate harebells. Looking south from the top of the ridge are the kind of views that really mess with your sense of scale. The hills to the south ripple like shockwaves away from the Wall, the dips peppered with sheep or striped by tractors; the tops crested with dense clumps of forest like thick neat eyebrows. The ripples aren’t all as they seem: some are the ragged edges of rock layers, formed when a huge earth movement injected molten lava between horizontal beds of limestone, mudstone and sandstone 295 million years ago and titled the land so it dips to the south. Another ripple is the Vallum, an enormous man-made earthwork dug as part of the Wall’s defences, which stretches from coast to coast. Milecastle 39 is known as Castle Nick as it sits on the nick of the hill with views over what was once the northernmost frontier of the Roman Empire. Beyond lived the old tribes of Britain – the powerful Brigantes who refused to bow down to Roman occupation. I drop down into Sycamore Gap, well-known as the place a quick-footed Kevin Costner saves a young lad from deer hounds just a few hours after landing at Dover in Prince of Thieves (1991). It’s a photogenic spot – the perfect picture of a tree set in a neat dip between two symmetrical hills. I continue along the path, following the grass-topped wall as skylarks ascend to either side, before cutting through tall pines as tiny goldcrests nip between branches. After three miles, I arrive at Housesteads, Britain’s most complete Roman fort. Here one can begin to imagine what life must have been like on the Roman frontier. Vercovicium, as it was known at the time, was built in AD124, two years after they started work on the Wall. Today, you can walk amongst the lichen covered stone foundations past the hospital, now taken over by weasels, to the bath house, taverns, granary and latrines. On the northern edge you’ll find the barracks where up to 800 men slept, waiting to be called upon for battle. After another mile I drop down to the military road and wind up for the night at the Old Repeater Station, a well-loved pit stop on the National Trail. Once a telephone signal booster, this down-to-earth B&B is rather like a Tardis with five basic bedrooms offering bunks or en-suite doubles (for those who book early). Its avuncular host Les cooks a hearty portion of lasagne for supper, before I settle down in the homely lounge and share Allendale Ales and banter with four bikers from Scunthorpe. Les, ever the raconteur, spins yarns and sips whiskey from his corner of the room. As he gets up to pour himself another drink he mutters cheekily: 'and don't anyone even think about taking my seat or there'll be hell to pay.' It would, I realise, take a Roman army to wrestle Les out of his favourite armchair. Further information: The AD122 bus operates daily April-Sept, hourly between 9am-6pm. It connects up with buses in Hexham for onward travel to Newcastle, and with trains at Haltwhistle. Hadrian’s Wall has its own country code called Every Footstep Counts, devised by the National Trail partnership, with tips on how visitors can help look after the Wall for future generations. Please read this before walking in the area, but most importantly you should never climb or walk on top of Hadrian’s Wall.

As we launch our Green Traveller's Guide to Northumberland National Park, Jo Keeling visits England's remotest protected area to explore Europe’s largest area of protected night sky. It was my first night in Northumberland National Park and the clouds were beginning to clear. Our group of six stood expectant (and rather full) in Battlesteads Hotel's observatory, a wooden stargazing station in the pub garden. As we waited for the sky to darken our host, planetary physicist Roy Alexander, was spinning yarns about his childhood obsession with astronomy: “I used to put on as many layers as I could and sit on Norfolk beaches until I got cold,” he said, before talking about his current hobby of layering up and stargazing from the A1. In 2013, 572 square miles of Northumberland was granted Gold Star Dark Sky Status, making this Europe’s largest area of protected night sky. With such low levels of light pollution, you can see the Milky Way with your bare eyes and, if you’re lucky, the northern lights. At 55º north, it’s not just the aurora borealis you should be looking out for but the equally-sublime noctilucent clouds. A polar cloud on the edge of space, these ice crystals shine like spun silk in summer between latitudes 50º-70º. Roy explained them rather more poetically as, “water vapour mixed with the dust of shooting stars.” Now that it was fully dark, we pushed the tempting red button and the roof pulled back to give the 11” telescope full view of the sky. As one unfamiliar with computer-controlled stargazing devices, I can tell you there’s something rather eerie about a spyglass that knows its location in time and space and moves on its own accord. Our group spoke to the telescope in the revered manner one would save for the HAL 9000 in Space Odyssey. “Show us the moon, HAL,” we said, as we typed the location into the handset, and it calmly slewed round to point at our nearest neighbour. With a catalogue of 40,000 objects, the moon was easy to find, but not as easy for us to see. “The moon is just past those clouds,” Roy said, laughing. “Welcome to astronomy!” Once the clouds shifted, we began to notice things about the moon we’d never seen before. The white parts are more heavily cratered than the dark ‘seas’. Meteors hit evenly, Roy said, but the darker parts were once pools of lava which absorbed the shocks. As the rock hardened it formed ripples like cooling milk. After practicing the basics of “smartphone astro-photography,” and viewing Saturn and its “innumerable moonlets” (one of many poetic celestial phrases we heard that evening), we retreated into the lecture room to drink hot chocolate and examine Roy’s handmade solar filter. Using one is vital; observe the sun without one and the UV light would boil your retinas. You wouldn’t notice you were blind until you looked away. “That’s when the screaming starts,” Roy said, as silence descended on the room. Then he smiled: “So who wants to see a scale model of the NASA space shuttle?” Replete with stargazing facts, we made camp deep in the Dark Sky Zone at Wild Northumbrian Tipis & Yurts. Our home for the night was Merle Yurt, accessed via a rope bridge and hidden within a woodland, owner Rob Hersey promised, was “filled with owls”. Rob has thoroughly embraced the National Park’s Dark Sky status, focusing on simple, joyful ways to experience Northumberland skies. He provides guests with a rug, star map and hamper of treats so they can explore the starlit landscape under their own steam. “We’re so far north that in summer, you can track the sun below the horizon,” he told us. “In winter, the moonlight reflects on the snow and it’s as bright as daylight.” We plied the log burner with wood, slow-cooked a sausage stew and listened to the rain on the roof, more aware than ever of all the astral objects skimming across the sky above us. Further information Jo stayed at: Battlesteads Hotel & Restaurant, a multi award-winning green hotel which organises dark sky events – from family stargazing evenings to 'Aurora hunting' workshops – from its own observatory. Wild Northumbrian Tipis & Yurts, a tranquil tipi and yurt camp in the Tarset Valley, which runs regular stargazing discovery events throughout the year.

As we launch our Greentraveller's Guide to the Northumberland Coast Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, Jo Keeling boards a boat to the Farne Islands and gets up close to some of the islands' inhabitants, including puffins, guillemots and seals. “Hold on to your hats folks, the sea’s looking a little bit lively,” the skipper calls back to us as we set out of the harbour at Seahouses towards the Farne Islands. I turn to see several rows of grinning faces – none of which have turned green yet. After riding a few rather feisty swells, the waves settle and we start to be overtaken by skeins of seabirds skimming over the waves: first gannets, then cormorants and terns, as if every living thing is being drawn towards the archipelago by some invisible force. As we near the first island, Inner Farne, the call of ‘puffins!’ causes passengers to rush to the boat edges, as these hardy little birds skitter away from our wake like clockwork toys. The Shiel family has been running boat trips around the Farne Islands since 1918, when the odd ornithologist would ask for a lift out on the lobster boats. Today, Billy Shiel Junior (otherwise known as just William) leads a fleet of seven passenger boats and a high speed RIB on a choice of 11 trips – a slightly more sophisticated set up than when his grandfather started rowing out tour groups in his open Northumbrian coble. We edge closer to the cliff face, sheer columns of pitch black dolerite bleached by decades of guano. The seabirds seem to be arranged in layers: cormorants drying their wings on the lower steps, nesting kittiwakes in the middle and the last of this year’s guillemots. This cluster of islands has been attracting ornithologists for decades – and looking at the scores of seabirds arranged in front of us, it’s not hard to see why. Between May and July, the archipelago becomes a frantic seabird colony – and a puffin fanciers’ dream. 37,000 pairs of these colourful and hardy auks breed here each year, along with 22 other species of seabird. Among them you might spot eider ducks, kittiwakes, guillemots, razorbills, fulmars and Arctic terns, which regularly dive-bomb visitors during their nesting season (bring a hat). If you time your visit well, you’re in with a chance of witnessing some of Britain’s most incredible wildlife spectacles: 1,000 grey seal pups resting on the rocks; gannets exploding into the sea to fish; humpback whales breaching; basking sharks circling the shallows and jumplings (guillemot chicks) taking a leap of faith as they leave their nests. On 11 November 2007, 28,800 little auks streamed past the Islands. It’s still an unbeaten British record and I can’t begin to imagine what that must have been like to see. As the boat motors towards Staple Sound, I can feel the gaze of many eyes upon us and look out to see seals nodding sagely from the water, or turning their heads from their position on the rocks as if we’d rudely woken them from a nap. Up to 3,000-4,000 grey seals live here, making it the largest colony in England. We explore the water around Staple Island and Longstone Island, as the crew spin tales about Grace Darling, the 22-year-old lighthouse keeper’s daughter who risked her life by rowing out to reach the wrecked SS Forfarshire in raging seas on 7 September 1838. A paddlesteamer called the Forfarshire had foundered on rocks and broken in half. After Grace spotted the wreck in the night, her father decided it was too rough for the lifeboat to put out from Seahouses so they replied to the call in their open coble, saving nine surviving members of the 62 crew and passengers. Grace returned a celebrity and was showered with honours. There’s an RNLI museum about her life in Bamburgh. I can’t imagine trying to row in today’s slightly chopping conditions, let alone in a full-blown gale. Nowadays, the lighthouse is powered by solar panels and the only people to live on the Farne Islands are National Trust assistant rangers, who sleep in the old pele tower and the lighthouse cottage. As the guardian of these islands for the past 90 years, the Trust has many tales to tell. One of my favourites happened on one December morning in the late 80s, when the seal team delayed their return to the mainland in order to indulge in a huge breakfast and a game of cricket using their remaining potatoes. However, before long, a huge storm blew up and it was another two days before they could be picked up – meaning they had to scour the island for their cricket ball potatoes in order to eat, before they could return home for the winter! On that note, we turn and start to head back to dry land – a camera filled with photos of puffins and thoughts of fish and chips on our minds. Written by Jo Keeling == Further information Jo Keeling travelled with Billy Shiel's Farne Islands Tours, who organise boat trips around the Farne Islands throughout the year on a high speed RIB. There's a choice of 11 tours, from the Inner Farn tour to dolphin and porpoise watching on the Pelagic Criuse tour. Diana Jarvis travelled with Serenity Boat Tours who run trips around the Inner Farne Islands, Staple Island and all-day birding trips, as well as sunset cruises and wildlife photography workshops. The RNLI Grace Darling Museum in Bamburgh is a fascinating museum commemorating the life of the 19th-century lighthouse keeper's daugher who risked her own life to row out to a wrecked ship in raging seas. >> For more ideas on places to stay, eat, and things to see and do on the Northumberland Coast, see: Greentraveller's Guide to the Northumberland Coast

As we launch our Greentraveller's Guide to the Northumberland Coast, Jo Keeling enjoys a seafood lovers' walk between two of the region's best pubs – The Ship Inn in Low Newton and The Jolly Sailor in Craster via Dunstanburgh Castle. Ever since I visited seven years ago, I’d always vowed to come back to The Ship Inn, which is tucked within a row of 19th-century fishermen’s cottages in Low Newton. There’s just something eminently comforting about it. Perhaps it’s because it’s one of those rare British pubs that still feels like someone’s front room – albeit, right now, the busiest front room you’ve ever been in. We budge on to the end of a table, the windows behind us steaming up with the mix of warm bodies and drying waterproofs, as a gentle hum of Gordie and Scottish accents fills the air. No matter how tempting the pork pie ploughman’s lunch and fresh lobster sounds, there’s only one thing on my mind: Craster kippers served with brown bread, butter and a slice of lemon. Good honest northern food, washed down with a half of squid ink ale, brewed onsite by the hardworking (and rather fiery) mother and daughter team. Well sated, we set out along the coast path towards Dunstanburgh Castle. After traversing the edge of a golf course and skirting around a number of enviably-set but rather ramshackle wooden holiday huts, the two-mile arc of Embleton Bay opens up to our left. At the tip of the bay, the ruins of Dunstanburgh draw us on. We follow the path as it climbs the crest of a sand dune, picking our way through dense bracken and stopping every so often to check the sea for seals and seabirds. Eider ducks, which you might seeing bobbing around in the surf, are known locally as Cuddy Ducks after Saint Cuthbert who established laws to protect them in 676 AD. It’s thought to be the world’s earliest bird protection act. After scanning Greymare Rock for kittiwakes and fulmars, we reach the remains of the 14th-century castle. It was built on top of a former Iron Age hill fort between 1313-1322 just as relations between King Edward II and his most powerful baron, Earl Thomas of Lancaster, were becoming openly hostile. It soon became the focus of fierce fighting during the War of the Roses and changed hands five times. The castle never recovered from the sieges and it began to fall into what the 16th-century Warden of the Scottish Marches called a "wonderfull great decaye,” becoming a popular subject with artists, including M. W. Turner. Since then it has been used as an observation post to guard the coast from German invasion, been refortified with trenches, pill boxes and mine fields and, worst of all, become besieged by a golf course. Today, it’s said to be haunted by a number of ghosts – most notably Thomas Plantagenet, who was executed for treason in 1322. Apparently the bumbling executioner delivered 11 strokes before he finally decapitated Thomas, who is said to roam the ruins carrying his mangled head. We push on to Craster, walking on a gorse-lined grassy path until we reach the harbour, flanked by stone and white-washed cottages. Along with nearby Seahouses, Craster claims to be the birthplace of smoked kippers so it's an apt conclusion to a walk that has fuelled by them! L. Robson and Sons have been smoking fish here since 1856, and today the grandson Neil and great granddaughter Olivia still use the same traditional methods, hanging their ‘silver darlings’ on tenter hooks in the cavernous smoking rooms over oak sawdust so that the full taste of the fish comes through. With its open fire and battered leather sofas, the Jolly Fisherman provides a cosy end to our ramble. Established by Charles Archbold in 1847, the pub even pre-dates the invention of kippers and has been well-loved by Craster residents. As the name implies there’s a cracking selection of cask beers – we round off the day with a pint of Mordue Workie Ticket (made in a microbrewery on Hadrian’s Wall) before gently dozing on the bus back to Low Newton. Written by Jo Keeling == Further information For more ideas of places to stay, eat, and things to see and do in the area, see our Greentraveller's Guide to the Northumberland Coast Jo ate at: The Ship Inn, a pub and microbrewery on the coast at Newton-by-the-Sea, who serve locally-caught fish and run folk events throughout the year. The Jolly Fisherman, a 19th-century pub popular for its crab sandwiches and buckets of mussels, with pretty garden overlooking the harbour and along the coast to Dunstanburgh Castle. Jo visited L. Robson and Sons, a family-run traditional kipper smokehouse in Craster with restaurant and shop.

Andrea and Jack Montgomery head to a wine-growing region in the Sierra Nevada mountains in Las Alpujarras, Spain, to visit Juan Palomar's vineyards and sample his award-winning wine What do the foothills of the Sierra Nevada mountains and California's Napa Valley have in common? To anyone arriving amongst the softly rolling plains and snow capped peaks of Las Alpujarras with its white-walled villages huddled like sheep into the folds of the hills and its olive and almond groves, the answer is very little. In Las Alpujarras wide avenues, neatly mowed lawns, white picket fencing and country manor style homes are as evident as Cadillac cars. But make your way to the town of Úgijar and the home of Veleta wines and you'll find Napa Valley's vines flourishing and producing wines of such high quality that they're winning awards 'back home'. “Just to give you an idea of how old I am,” says Juan Palomar as he leads us down the drive of Dominio Buenavista Farm towards his bodega. “I planted these palms from dates.” I glance at the row of tall, fat date palms standing sentry along our route and then back at the smiling face of Juan and conclude that either date palms are extremely fast growing or there is a painting of a very old man in the attic. At the turn of the 21st century, there were two passions in Juan Palomar's life, his work as a surgeon in Ohio and his love of California Napa Valley wines. Realising the similarities in climate and geography between Napa Valley and his home town of Ugijar, Juan decided to try to grow some of the varieties so successfully produced in California on his family farm in Las Alpujarras. In 1994, carefully carrying root stock from Santa Rosa vines by hand back to Spain and grafting them onto wild root stock planted two years earlier, Juan began to cultivate Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay vines to produce wine for his family and friends. With time and care the vines adapted perfectly to their new home and the experiment proved so successful that Juan planted more vineyards with root stock brought from California, adding Merlot and Cabernet Franc to his menu. By 1998 the Bodega Dominio Buenavista was born and when, four years later Juan was forced to retire from medicine due to the arthritis in his hands, his hobby became his second career. Medicine's loss was viticulture’s gain as Juan turned his surgeon's skill to grafting, pruning and tending the vines that carpet the hillsides of his family farm, irrigated by the fresh spring waters flowing down from the mountains. Veleta wines grace the tables of the Restaurant Las Chimeneas in Mairena from where David and Emma Illsley arrange tours and tastings for their guests. After we tour the fermentation room and cellars of the bodega, Juan leads us to everyone's favourite part of the visit, the tasting room. Seated amongst the award certificates and press clippings that adorn the walls of the tasting room we sample the fruits of Juan's labours; a Veleta Chardonnay 2011 with its crisp, dry peachiness; a chocolate and blackcurrent, full bodied Tempranilla Reserve 2007 and my personal favourite, the elegant, cherry, chocolate and almond perfection of the Veleta Nolados 2008 which marries Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc grapes with traditional Tempranilla. Juan's Veleta wines regularly scoop awards in Holland and across Spain but sweetest of all are the honours that are bestowed from across the pond, at Cincinnatti and San Francisco International Wine Festivals where the Tempranilla Reserve won gold at Cincinnatti and silver at San Francisco in 2010 and the Nolados won silver at Cincinatti in 2011. Putting a beaming smile on Juan's face today is the news that one of the USA's most respected digital, wine specialist magazines, Snooth, has just named Veleta Nolados 2008 and 'reserva' Veleta Tempranilla 2009 as two of the nine best wines of Spain in the United States. Veleta wines, from California, via Úgijar, with love. Written by Andrea and Jack Montgomery Further information Jack and Sarah visited the Bodega Dominio Buenavista, an organic vineyard and wine shop run by Juan Palomar who can organise tours and tastings. Restaurant Las Chimeneas is a wonderful restaurant and cookery school set on an organic farm with self-catering cottages; the owners can organise walking and birdwatching tours, and children's activities.

As we celebrate our Greentraveller's Guide to Las Alpujarras, in association with Inntravel, Paul Bloomfield heads to the region to get a taste for ham-drying and home-cooking around Mairena and discovers that the flavours of Las Alpujarras reflect the ingredients, lifestyles and history of its people. Do you have a pig? Is it well fed, perhaps having munched plenty of acorns during its free-ranging daily snuffling? And finally, do you have a spare €650? If the answers to these questions is yes, you could be in for the meatiest treat of your life. Simply head to Jamones Muñoz in the small village of Yegen, in the eastern Alpujarra, drop off your porker and – after a suitable interval – you’ll have a larder stocked with the finest sausages and air-dried hams imaginable. OK, €650 isn’t exactly cheap. But if you have a top-notch pig – perhaps a pata negra (‘black hoof’, a black Iberian), maybe bellota(acorn-fed) – and given the labour-intensive traditional artisanal methods used by this family-run outfit, which has producing its renowned hams and other goodies for well over half a century, it’s a price well worth paying. I don’t have a pig of any kind, but after taking a brief tour of Jamones Muñoz with Isabel, I almost wished I did. This area, you see, is famed for its air-cured (mountain ham); the cool, almost supernaturally dry air of the higher southern slopes of the Sierra Nevada creates the perfect conditions for dehydrating pork. In some parts of Las Alpujarras, production has expanded vastly – head to Trevélez, for example, and you’ll find upwards of 20 producers, with perhaps a million hams hanging to dry at any one time. Jamones Muñoz is very much a small, artisanal outfit, but even so my jaw dropped at the sight of some 30,000 hams hanging in a refrigerated warehouse. All had been salted, massaged and lovingly coated in manteca – a preserving balm of fat and oil, like a natural cellophane wrap – before being hung for upwards of a year. They’re checked regularly (the outsides are tapped to check they’re curing properly, and manteca re-applied if necessary), and carefully labelled with origin, classification and weight before and after drying. If its up to scratch, 18 months or even three years later, a gran reserva jamón is taken down and carved with the loving care and precision that such a superbly crafted delicacy deserves. Once we’d gawped at the ranks of drying hams, Isabel herded us into the back room of the shop for an impromptu tasting. Along with tissue-thin slices of were produced and sliced: chorizo, of course, but also salchichón (more like salami), longaniza(similar to chorizo, but with black pepper in place of paprika) and delectable lomo, tenderloin coated with salt and pepper and lovingly cured. Home-made wine was sipped and declared dangerously swiggable – something none of us was expecting when it was sloshed from the large plastic jerry-can. The idea of having ham dried from your own pig is very much in tune with the culinary ethos of the Alpujarra. There’s no pretension – just a knowledge of what tastes best, and an instinct for using whatever ingredients are to hand. A cookery lesson with Conchi and Sole, the kitchen maestros at the charming Las Chimeneas guesthouse in nearby Mairena, followed the same theory. With what do you stuff your aubergines? Well, of what do you have a glut? Here it might be tomatoes, onions or courgettes, with plenty of your own olive oil, of course, and topped with your home-made goats’ cheese. The act of cooking was similarly instinctive. Both of these women learned their craft in a kitchen without a table or worktop, so onions were chopped in the hand, twisting and slicing the bulbs with slick dexterity. They’d had no cooker as we know it, either; instead, a big burner like a hefty camping stove was topped with a large pan, into which was tossed a healthy glug of olive oil, followed by those rustically sliced onions and the rest of the ingredients. The same process was repeated for each dish, so that within an hour, a whole menu was miraculously produced. Chunks of tomato, garlic, apple, peppers and bread were thrown together and blended to make a creamy gazpacho – an ever-present in summer, when an abundance of tomatoes ensures a never-ending supply. Jugs of gazpacho are crammed into fridges, hauled out when a cool, savoury drink is needed. Ajo blanco, white almond soup, followed a similar procedure, though without the tomatoes. Aubergines were stuffed, chicken casserole simmered, orange and fig salad drizzled with just a few drops of orange-blossom water for a refreshingly floral dessert. As the heat of the June afternoon lifted, I took a pre-dinner stroll down to the finca of David and Emma Illsley, owners of Las Chimeneas, to admire the source of some of the ingredients. If I’d ever been in doubt of the appeal of life in Las Alpujarras, it swiftly leached away. At almost any spot on the terraced smallholding I was within plucking distance of a cherry or a kaki (persimmon), a deliciously sweet nispero (Japanese quince), apricot or olive. The scent of wild mint, crushed underfoot, infused the air; courgettes and aubergines burgeoned in vegetable beds. No-one with an understanding of local history would be blasé enough to call this region a land of plenty. Even with the irrigation marvels of the acequias (water-channel network) installed centuries ago by the Moors, life here has always been pretty demanding. Things are a little easier today, certainly, though people still work very hard to get by. And fuel as delicious as that I’d tasted today must provide at least some recompense. Words by Paul Bloomfield Information Jamones Muñoz has a tempting shop selling its hams and other pork products, along with crafts, wines, cheeses, honey, jams and other locally produces goodies, in Yegen. Ask to be shown the production for the lowdown on drying hams the artisanal way. Las Chimeneas is a delightful guesthouse occupying several houses around the main square in the little village of Mairenas, has a wonderful restaurant where Conchi and Sole dish up a daily changing dinner menu; expect ajo blanco (white almond and garlic soup), gazpacho, stuffed aubergines and a host of local dishes, along with sinfully delicious cakes. Cookery classes can be organised as part of a stay, and chefs including Sam Clark of renowned London restaurant Moro tutor at dedicated cooking holidays.

As we launch our Green Traveller's Guide to Las Alpujarras, in association with Inntravel, Paul Bloomfield goes on a guided nature walk in this glorious mountainous region in southern Spain, where the dual overlapping protected areas of Sierra Nevada Natural Park and National Park host countless bird, plant and insect species. After dozens of outings with naturalist guides across six continents, the most important wildlife-watching lesson I’ve learned is this: the slower you walk, and the less distance you cover, the more you see. On a nature walk on a hot June morning in Las Alpujarras – where, let’s face it, life moves at a pretty relaxed pace anyway – we were practically at a standstill within yards of setting out. And the experience was all the richer for it. I’d joined a small group of half a dozen or so visitor on a day’s walk with specialist nature guide Jorge. Actually, having worked across Europe and North Africa, as well as living in Australia and New Zealand, and being qualified to guide among the architectural and historic gems of Granada, he’s a specialist in lots of things. But within minutes of meeting it became clear that his real passion is the natural history of the mountains that form the northern limits of Las Alpujarras. “Sierra Nevada is paradise,” he enthused. “It’s a biodiversity hotspot, one of the richest in species in the world.” What does that mean in practice? “Well, in Spain we have 232 butterfly species – and you’ll find 135 of them in Sierra Nevada, including several endemic species that you’ll find nowhere else, along with many more endemic subspecies. We also have over a quarter of Spain’s planet species – more that 2,500 of them – and 215 bird species.” This natural abundance became evident almost as soon as we set out from the tiny village of Júbar, taking the track running north from alongside the ancient whitewashed church. This house of worship is itself worth exploring, having been previously a synagogue, before that a mosque, and possibly earlier still the site of a Roman temple. Our cadre on the walk was a mixed bunch, our levels of interest and knowledge ranging from those really just out for a pleasant stroll to others with camera lenses as long as their arm, and species wishlists far longer. My own inclinations lay somewhere between the two, and we gradually adjusted our pace to suit the whole group. Fifty paces (and quite a few minutes) after setting out, we were paused in admiration of the parade of butterflies flickering around us like confetti – swallowtails, painted ladies, small tortoiseshells – and the plants that lined the path. We learned about the Spanish oak, Quercus ilex, and how it is largely responsible for a whole ecosystem: its leaves – rounded higher up, curiously spiky like holly near the base of the trunk – are shed year-round, creating the perfect level of soil acidity for local species to flourish. The galls on such oaks, formed when wasp larvae hatch and valuable for use in leather tanning, were once used as currency along the ancient trade routes established in Roman times. We examined St John’s wort, known in Britain as a herbal antidepressant but used here, Jorge explained, for centuries in treating skin conditions (why St John’s? It typically blooms on 24 June – St John’s day.) There was fake indigo, producing rich blue dye as used by the Touaregs (‘Blue Men’) of the Sahara in North Africa. We sniffed wild thyme and oregano, and stroked the soft leaves of Verbascum, the ‘toilet paper plant’ (no, I didn’t!) Eventually we all accepted that a slightly (only slightly) speedier pace might be advisable if we were to reach our objective for the day. Still, there was plenty of time to halt and identify whether the trills emanating from the treetops were the calls of a cirl bunting or a Bonelli’s warbler, and to admire the sure-footed Spanish ibex hopping around the sheer rocks on the opposite face of the valley. Sierra Nevada, Jorge informed us to our delight, boasts the highest density of the mighty-horned wild goat. After a couple of miles the chattering of water announced that we’d reached an acequia – one of the irrigation channels first established by the Moors, and so typical of Las Alpujarras (indeed, essential for agriculture here). Like the levadas of Madeira, this acequia provided an idea flat path through the scrub, largely shaded from the midday sun and blessed with delightfully cool breezes. Another few hundred metres brought us to our lunch stop at a lush glade alongside a stream, dominated by a huge chestnut tree at least 800 years old, maybe a thousand. We lolled beneath its branches, munching cheese, olives, tomatoes and rustic bread as a golden oriole sang its fluting contact call from high in the tree canopy above. The veteran chestnut’s bark was so gnarled it looked almost knitted, its branches so heavy they needed support from self-sprouted struts like walking sticks, yet it was flourishing still and crowned with a dense bolus of leaves. “This was already a sturdy young tree when the exquisite palaces of the Alhambra were being crafted,” mused Jorge. “And it was mature and well established by the time Boabdil, the last emir, left Granada in 1492, vacating the city for Isabella and Ferdinand.” This venerable tree has stood sentinel at the head of this valley for centuries; with luck, its vast trunk will be here, steadied by hefty buttress roots for centuries to come. The efforts of people like Jorge, enthusing visitors and locals alike to help protect its environment in the Sierra Nevada Natural Park, can only help secure its future – as well as providing a fascinating insight into the natural wealth of its domain. Words by Paul Bloomfield Further information: Jorge offers a range of tours and courses via http://www.al-natural.eu (his website is in Spanish, though his English is excellent). Paul stayed at Las Chimeneas, a characterful, welcoming guesthouse in the charming village of Mairenas, just 1km or so from Júbar, whose owners can organise nature walks with Jorge as part of a stay. >> The UK-based tour operator Inntravel (the 'Slow Holiday People') runs a range of holidays in Las Alpujarras.

As we launch our Green Traveller's Guide to Green Spain, Ginny Light samples the food scene and the great outdoors in Galicia, Asturias, Cantabria and the Basque Country. Food is often a product of geography and history, and no more so than in Green Spain where the local fare goes far beyond the typical seaside menu - there are many familiar items like tortilla, paella and squid but also products of the ‘terroir’, such as beef, cheese and beans. Gastronomy is a big draw for Green Spain, but so too is the huge variety of activities and attractions in a relatively compact area, especially given the proximity of the mountains to the coastline and the region's avante garde cities such as Bilbao and San Sebastián. You say Tapas, I say Pintxos What is considered tapas in most parts of Spain is called ‘pintxos’ in Green Spain. It is best known in the bars of San Sebastián, where pintxos culture is very much part of city life. The pintxos experience is a multi-generational affair, and on a Friday or Saturday night one can expect pintxos bars in San Sebastián to be spilling their customers onto the street From the tiny matchbox neighbourhood bar to the latest fashionable eatery, this is no tourist tarry - everyone tucks in from 6pm. But come 10pm, the crowds disperse and the floors are littered with little napkins and cocktail sticks - all that is left of a bar once overflowing with a rainbow of pintxos dishes. Many items come on toasted bread resting on a napkin - tortillas, mushrooms, padron peppers and cured ham, crab or salt cod. Or there are sticks that pierce a chunk of chorizo, an anchovy, olive and jalapeno pepper or a garlicky mushroom. Tortilla is always served runny, as it should be, not dried out and rubbery, and often comes sandwiched around a central filling of something like ham and cheese or spinach. These plates could cost anywhere between €1 and €5 depending on the institution, or on rare occasions, come free with a drink. But more often than not, you are charged for each plate of food that you choose while your drink is prepared. A sweetshop mentality is essential - restraint is the order of the day but it is hard not to take too much - towers of morcilla sausage atop sweet roasted pepper and bread, crispy croquettes of jamon Iberico, and tempura salt cod. Pastures Green Grazing cows, cheese matured in caves and hearty stews are a staple of the upland regions of Galicia, Asturias, Cantabria and the Basque Country. This is a consequence of the lush pasture that supports pastoral farming. Nigel Burch owns the Hotel Posada del Valle in Asturias and grows much of his own produce but sources the rest locally. He explained to me that: “The mountain landscape of Asturias means it is difficult to farm on a commercial scale so there is a huge diversity of cheese in the area owing to the many smallholdings”. The beans in traditional dishes such as fabada stews, have their roots in the influence of Latin America culture, brought back by emigres who fled Spain and found their fortunes from across the Atlantic. There is another change from southern Spain; the menus mostly come in two languages - Spanish and Basque. The latter is a mythical and exotic tongue - all x’s, z’s and k’s. It is quite unlike any other European language, and together with the influence of beef, cheese and beans, can make navigating a menu in this part of Spain feel like unfamiliar territory. Food markets Eating in can be just as enticing in Green Spain - there are fresh produce markets across the region. Bilbao, Santander and San Sebastián are among the cities with superb fish markets that also have stalls selling vegetables, fruit, meat, cheese and deli items. The fish comes from the Bay of Biscay and includes the somewhat alien-like local delicacy - percebes, or goose barnacles. These crustaceans are indigenous to this coastline and are usually steamed or boiled, then the insides pulled out and eaten. The taste is said to be rather like octopus and oyster. What to drink A popular drink with seafood and pintxos is the local white wine, txakoli, and, particularly in Asturias, cider. Both drinks are poured from a great height into a glass - the idea being that the liquid is ‘broken’ on contact with the glass and left aerated with a slight fizz. Burn it off In between meals, the variety of landscape across Green Spain means there is a vast range of activities from the sedate to the intense. Exploring the cities on foot is the best way to get your bearings and in San Sebastián there is a fascinating route around the arc of La Concha Bay.Two hills mark the entrances to La Concha Bay like standing sentries, and offer spectacular viewpoints from which to see the city and the hills beyond. Urgull Hill is to the east and on the other side is Monte Igueldo, which has been served by the same rickety wooden funicular for over 100 years. At the top is a shabby but charming amusement park and cafes and restaurants.Tourists and locals have been taking the train since Victorian times when a casino and dance hall were the big draws at the summit. It is worth the ride just for the the changing panorama as the train ascends the hill and the sudden refreshing blast of Atlantic air as one emerges from the shadow of the hill. Along the arc of the bay one can take the upper promenade on the arching sweep of the famous La Concha iron railings.Or escape the heat in the covered lower walkway, onto which countless surf and paddleboard schools open out - many of them year-round. Also on this route is a big Ferris wheel and behind it the Old Town, home to the fish market, pintxos bars and the beautiful baroque church, Basilica of Saint Mary of the Chorus. On and under the water Watersports stretch far beyond the city beaches. Surfing is hugely popular the entire length of the coast because of the range of breaks and reliability of the swell in the Bay of Biscay. Kiteboarding and windsurfing are also on offer in destinations such as Somo and Oyambre. There is quiet water here too - the many rivers that carry run-off down from the Picos de Europa open into broad estuaries along the coast and many are protected by coves and outcrops. These are superb to explore by paddle board - notably San Vicente de la Barquera and Llanes. The wind and waves of the Bay of Biscay have made it a treacherous stretch of water for shipping over the centuries and many vessels have fallen foul of rough weather. This makes it exciting territory for wreck dives. The Aries shipwreck in Galicia is a dive site offered by Wild Sea and is known for its well preserved cabins and the marine creatures that live within it. Mountain highs One of the most extraordinary things about the region of Green Spain are the vistas - the backdrop to the coastal scenery is the Picos de Europa mountains, part of the spine of the Cantabrian mountains that run east-west across northern Spain. All over the mountains are miradors, or viewpoints, as well as walking routes and stunning glacial lakes. Some of the most popular published walks, which tend to be between three and six hours long, are Cares Route, the Covadonga Lakes, the Ordiales viewing point, the Vega de Ario plain and the ascent to the Fuente Dé cable car. Like walking in the Scottish Cairngorms or the Lake District, one should be prepared for rapid changes of weather with a variety of clothes and good boots. Pack a picnic of Cabrales cheese, fresh bread, crisps from Asturian potatoes and the local biscocho cake with apple juice or cider and you can enjoy a regional feast, often with miles of the Cantabrian mountains all to yourself. Words by Ginny Light. Photos by Christoper Willan. == More information: Spanish Tourist Office: www.spain.info Galicia: www.turismo.gal/inicio Asturias: www.turismoasturias.es/en/home Cantabria: www.turismodecantabria.com/inicio Basque Country: www.tourism.euskadi.eus/en == Disclosure: Ginny Light was a guest of the Spanish Tourist Office. Ginny had full editorial control of the review, which is written in her own words based on her experience of visiting Green Spain in the winter of 2018 for Green Traveller's Guide to Green Spain. All opinions are the author's own.

Green Traveller's #EcoSpain competition (the "Competition") is open to residents of the UK aged 18 and over Only entries from UK addresses will be eligible for the competition. The winner must have been a UK resident for a minimum of 6 months. Employees or agencies of Greentraveller Limited or their family members, or anyone else connected with the Competition may not enter the Competition. Entry into the Competition is acceptance of these Terms and Conditions. Those who submit their photos by 23.59 on 21 December 2020 will be judged by a representative of Green Traveller. One winner from all eligible entries will be selected by Greentraveller Limited as the winner. Subject always to paragraph 7, the Competition closes at 23.59 on 21 December 2020. Entries received after this date and time will not be considered. No responsibility is taken for entries that are lost, delayed, misdirected or incomplete or cannot be delivered or entered for any technical or other reason. 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As we publish our Greentraveller's Guide to Dorset's Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, the author of the guide, Harriet O'Brien, provides an overview of the region's real-food revolution Wild boar salami, gooey goat cheese, black garlic, walnut and rosemary soda bread… From the Cranborne estate chalk lands of northern Dorset to the coastal riches of the south, over the last few years a real-food revolution has been gaining momentum across the county. It has in part taken its cue from the ongoing success of a few relatively big Dorset players. Dorset Cereals had been quietly making muesli for 20 years when it radically overhauled its product line – and image - in 2005. It now thrives, and spreads the Dorset name, from its base at Dorchester. Hall & Woodhouse has been brewing ales since 1777 – the company started in Weymouth, making beer for troops stationed there – and today produces award-winning Badger beers and a more recent selection of ciders. Purbeck Ice Cream began life in the late 1980s as a diversification project at Hazel and Pete Hartle’s dairy farm near Corfe Castle. It now takes the Purbeck name far and wide: as well as a great host of local cafes, restaurants and shops, it supplies many London hotels, P&O Cruises and Japanese Airlines among others. Meantime the number of small producers in Dorset has been steadily growing – and they are becoming ever more zealous about capturing the flavours of the area. Much of their success is down to an appealing community spirit, which has been very much fostered by the new Dorset Food & Drink organisation, set up in 2013. For example, at smokehouse and charcuterie maker Capreolus in Rampisham, west Dorset, owners Karen and David Richards periodically smoke cheese for nearby Woolsery Cheese. And they’ve orchestrated a neatly beneficial system whereby otherwise unused whey from Woolsery is fed to Sam's pigs at Rob and Sam Holloway’s Locke Farm down the road. In turn this results in wonderfully flavourful meat that the Richards process at Capreolus. Formerly a boardroom executive, David Richards turned his gourmet hobby of curing meats into a business when he was made redundant. In the four years since setting up in Dorset, he and Karen have won armloads of trophies including the top prize of Champion Product at the Taste of the West Awards 2013, and in February 2014 they were finalists in the BBC Food and Farming Awards. West Dorset, with its butchers, bakers, and even fine wine makers – Furleigh Estate near Bridport and Langham Wine near Dorchester - is progressively regarded as an outstanding foodie destination. Further north, From Dorset with Love was set up just a few years ago at Blandford Forum and has been having a big impact across the county and beyond. It was already much acclaimed for its jams and chutneys when it launched piquant Dorsetshire Sauce, which gourmets swear is now an essential ingredient for in any self-respecting kitchen. Meanwhile, the Purbeck area is starting to get into a gourmet stride. Among its producers are Dorset Charcuterie operating fom Lytchett Minster and happy to be an honourable rival to Capreolus – competition keeps quality at a high say owners Lee Morton and Ben Sugden. Purbeck’s food revolution was in part started by Chococo. Run by husband and wife team Claire and Andy Burnet, Chococo creates some of the best chocolates in Britain (they’ve won more than 40 top awards), all handmade using sustainably produced raw chocolate from Venezuala, Grenada and Madagascar, along with fresh cream from family-run Craig’s Dairy Farm at Osmington. The fillings are for the most part a terrific celebration of Dorset: Chococo creates a special chocolate for each month, such as Dorset Blue made with Blue Vinny cheese, and Black Garlic, a product from South West Garlic Farm near Bridport that has been causing waves of excitement in the food world. Chococo’s workshops are in Wareham, but the company started up in 2002 in Swanage, where it continues to run its main outlet, a shop and café that despite being tucked away down narrow lanes inevitably draws steady streams of people. They come for the quality, but the pricing here is also wonderfully keen, well below the cost of prime chocolates in, say, Brussels or Paris. Chococo hasn’t – yet – devised a Dorset Knob chocolate. This savoury biscuit encapsulates much of the idiosyncratic spirit of Dorset: it’s a unique, amusing looking product shaped as a small round about the size of a golf ball and made by family-run Moores bakery in Morecombelake, west Dorset, since 1880. And it has been enjoying a great surge of popularity ever since 2008 when a Dorset Knob throwing competition was incorporated into the Frome Valley Food Festival held at Cattistock on the first Sunday of May (dorsetknobthrowing.com). This attracts hundreds of ‘biscuit atheletes’ and thousands of spectators. Other Dorset food festivals include Spring Tide in Bridport in May and Bridport Food Festival in June; Church Knowle Food Fayre in July; Eat Dorset Food Fair at Parnham House, Beaminster, in October; Dorset Food Week at the end of the October/beginning of November and the Dorset Food Festival at Athelhampton House in November (dorsetaonb.org.uk/food-and-drink/food-week-and-events). Between times you’ll find a happy concentration of top Dorset producers at farmers’ markets which take place variously at Dorchester, Blandford, Sherborne, Bridport, Wimborne and Shaftesbury. Look out for wonderful bread from Lizzie and Bekki the Baking Birds (www.homemadebylb.co.uk); sustainably caught crab from Dorset shellfish; and pies from Dorset pies which launched earlier in 2014 to much acclaim. More information: dorsetaonb.org.uk/food-and-drink dorsetfarmersmarkets.co.uk Words by Harriet O'Brien

Chris Woodley-Stewart explores the Jurassic Coast and the South West Coast Path, and says Dorset is "arguably England's best county for wildlife". Much of Dorset is a designated Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) and as well as having wonderful landscapes and a rich historic environment, it's also arguably England's best county for wildlife. In summer, I head to the heathlands, buzzing with a stellar cast of jewelled insects, enigmatic reptiles and birdlife that includes the mysterious nightjar, the dartford warbler and the parachuting tree pipit. Inland, winter is a time when the cultural heritage takes over from the natural to some degree, and attention turns to trying to read the 'humps and bumps' in the landscape. But now it's the windswept, wave-battered coast that draws me, and I'm heading to Thorneycombe Beacon and then along the South West Coast Path to Charmouth, over Golden Cap. The moment I set off I'm greeted by two buzzards, whirling in courtship flight above the field to my left. Buzzards are a common sight across the country now, but they never cease to delight, and their mewing is England's real call of the wild. Looking back north beyond the cone of Colmers Hill, it's possible to discern the original plateau through which the rivers have cut today's network of valleys, leaving more prominent conical hills like Colmers. Many of these are the sight of hillforts and tumuli and it's easy to see why they were the focus of ancient settlements. By the time I reach Thorneycombe Beacon and the ruffled blanket of sea below, I'm joined by three ravens, tumbling together through the sky. Watching them it's hard not to conclude that they are simply doing this for the sheer joy it brings them (and me). In summer a diversity of flowers, butterflies and birds can be found up here. But today it's just the ravens sharing my sweeping view to the east to Chesil Beach and Portland, and to the west the imposing hulk of Golden Cap, with Lyme Regis and the Jurassic Coast beyond. I'd spend the night at Highway Farm, just west of Bridport, which has the warmest of welcomes from Pauline and John Bale. Their self-catering cottage is cosy, well-equipped and beautifully kept, as are their B&B rooms in the main house. The Bales farmed further inland before they ran this business and they have a tremendous knowledge of the local area and are warm and articulate champions for all that Dorset has to offer. Their food is locally-sourced or homemade, and they are great examples of the notion that the most important ambassador for a place can be the person who gives you your breakfast and talks passionately and knowledgeably about the area they love. As well as providing B&B and self-catering, the Bales host courses in textiles, woodworking and much else besides, arrange fossil walks, produce cook books (for local and Malawian charities) and have a peaceful fishing lake. Highway Farm is so lovely that I could be forgiven for not wanting to venture out, but this is the first decent weather in weeks. The Jurassic Coast is the UK's first natural World Heritage Site, as well as being part of the AONB, and is famed for its fossils. It was here that Mary Anning, the 'founding Mother' of modern palaeontology, proved through her discoveries that women could 'do dinosaurs too' – and better than the men. Fossil hunting is hugely popular here – there's a simple fossil hunting code that everyone should follow – and if you can't find an ammonite of your own then there are plenty of guided fossil hunts available in summer to help you. The sea is constantly reshaping this dynamic coastline, and each fossil revealed is a memory of life hundreds of millions of years old. By the time I reached Charmouth, I'd been reminded that the coves, valleys and cliffs of the South West Coast Path have a great many ups and downs – several ascents of Everest worth on the whole route; I feel I earned my delicious locally-sourced dinner in the Ilchester Arms at Symondsbury that night – and the 'beer miles' were very low too, with some of the local brewery's finest on offer. My journey to Dorset from the North Pennines had been a 10-hour mini-adventure in its own right, and was only possible because of the fantastic bus service along the Dorset coast that provides linear walking opportunities by public transport. The amity and helpfulness of the driver on the number 31 was mirrored in everyone I met, from host to publican and from farmer to shopkeeper. Chris stayed at Highway Farm, near Bridport, which costs from £88 a night B&B. To get there by public transport: take the train to Dorchester South railway station then take the X31 bus to the Bridport stop from where you will be able to see the farm. == Words by Chris Woodley-Stewart

David Atkinson and daughter Maya spend a day hunting for mini sea creatures in the rock pools on Llandanwg Beach, a remote spot on Snowdonia National Park's coastline It’s a bright, wind-gusting day at the beach. We stand on the shingle, looking north towards the Llyn Peninsula and east towards the snow-saddled pyramidal peak of Snowdon. Spring, it feels, is bursting into life around us. Sandwich Terns dive for fish out to sea, while seals and dolphins will bob playfully past this way in summer. My daughter, Maya, and I have come to Llandanwg beach to meet Brian Macdonald of Wildlife Wales, who arranges a weekly programme of guided wildlife trips around a remote stretch Ardudwy coastline between Harlech and Barmouth. Wiltshire-born Brian, a former botanist at Kew Gardens, has made the area his home and now writes a Country Diary-style blog about the local wildlife. He also leads nature walks on northern shore of the River Artro estuary, takes fly-fishing trips and cooks up foraged beach suppers over driftwood fires in summer. But Maya and I are here for a spot of spring rock pooling, hunting for mini-beasts amongst the ecosystem of tide-turned rocks and glistening-green seaweed. “Rock-pooling is a lucky dip,” laughs Brain, explaining that the secret is to find a rock with space underneath and a good smothering of sea-salty reeds. As we clamber over the rocks with green-mesh dipping nets, we find winkles, barnacles and limpets, the latter clinging steadfastly to the rocks. Brian attempts to catch one off guard with a sharp jab of his Wellington boot. “You only get one chance with limpets,” he smiles. “Once they’re startled, they cling on for dear life.” Of our catch, Maya is most impressed by the sea anemone and a solitary prawn, its wiry tentacles feeling the Perspex tank as we hold it up to the sun. Prawns, Brian explains, have what looks like yellow-and-blue stripy socks on their feet and, like crabs, they grow by moulting, casting off their old shells like growing into a new school coat. “How do they make babies?” asks Maya, and Brian explains how the females keep eggs under their tails to be fertilised externally. Back at Y Maes, Llandanwg’s sunshiny beach café, we compile a list of our finds over mugs of hot chocolate and scoops of raspberry ripple ice cream before returning the creatures to the sea. From the beach, we head back into the heart of the Snowdonia National Park, stopping for lunch and a gentle afternoon mooch around the grey-slate market town of Dolgellau, the visitor hub of southern Snowdonia – it's worth remembering that lots of places close on Wednesdays around Dolgellau. Plates of freshly made Welsh rarebit, slices of bread slathered with sautéed leeks, melted cheese and wholegrain mustard, go down a treat at T.H. Roberts, a charmingly traditional independent café. The adapted fittings of the old ironmongers shop are now home to coffee machines, homemade cakes and daily newspapers. After lunch we take a peek at the current exhibition in the upstairs art gallery and I order a fresh-baked loaf of bara brith, a local speciality fruit loaf, to take home. The streets around Eldon Square, the centre of town, are home to lots of interesting little independent shops, notably local deli Popty’r Dref and Grug, a funky little emporium where a collective of local craftspeople showcase their works. The latter is on the ground floor of Ty Siamas, the National Centre for Welsh Folk Music with its exhibition and regular live events. The centre is particularly buzzy during Session Fawr, an annual festival of Welsh music staged in July. To stay on, there are some good accommodation options nearby. To combine Dolgellau with walking the Mawddach Way long-distance trail, the owners of Coed Cae are very knowledgeable about walking routes. Ffynnon is a stylish boutique guesthouse in Dolgellau itself with six homely rooms and a breakfast table heaving with locally sourced produce. Bring your own yellow-and-blue stripy socks.

David Atkinson and daughter Maya spend a day exploring the woodland trails in Coed y Brenin, a mountain-biking centre in Snowdonia National Park We’re going on a treasure hunt. It’s a bright but chilly spring day as Maya, my seven-year-old daughter, and I set off from the Visitor Centre at Coed y Brenin Forest Park just north of Dolgellau. Coed y Brenin is best known as a mountain-biking centre (it’s also on a Sustrans route), but we’ve come to try out some of the new themed walking trails. We start to explore the sun-dappled woodland paths, starting with the Geo-cache Trail. Maya takes charge of the the-lime-green GPS and leads the way, heading southeast along the moss-carpeted trail in search of the first treasure trove. Spring birdlife chirps a cheery greeting as we tramp pass. We follow the arrow to the Viewpoint, a raised bank overlooking the entire 9,000-acre site. The snow-capped Snowdonia range looms stoically beyond the treetops. “Let’s look for mini-beasts,” says Maya. “It’s all twiggy and mossy here, so there must be lots of animals.” We uncover our first geo-cache, a waterproof box, signing the logbook and swopping treasures of a keyring for one of our pencils, before heading on. This is ancient gold-mining territory (the Dolgellau gold rush gripped Snowdonia in the 19th century) and the most dramatic of our finds comes as we pass the Pistyll Cain waterfall and uncover the geo-cahe by the old Gwynfynydd Gold Mine. After a picnic lunch in the sun, spring-migrating birdlife pecking around our boots for crumbs, we go back to the Visitor Centre to pick up one of the new audio trails. We chose to learn about the forest’s giant fir tress trees on the gentle King’s Guards Trails, having first downloaded the MP3 to my phone. This, like the others, is designed so you can walk the whole trail, or dip into it for a few sections. There’s also an Animal Puzzle Trail for young children. Coed y Brenin recently expanded its facilities, adding an overflow cafe, a new bike skills centre and new interpretation material about its gold-mining heritage. Come late afternoon we drive on, skirting Dolgellau on the Tywyn road to Graig Wen, a close-to-nature collection of slate-roofed cottages, secluded yurts and camping, plus a smart, five-bed B&B. We’re staying in the new eco-cabin, a sustainable-built, dismountable structure with a blanket-warmed double futon, a camping stove and a wood-burning fire to ward off bedtime chills. Maya takes to the hobbit-house design straight away, exploring the grounds while I unpack. Graig Wen’s owner, Sarah Heyworth, arrives with a whicker basket of essential utensils and local goodies – local honey, Welshcakes and a bottle of Purple Moose ale from a local microbrewery, amongst them. "The big different between a yurt and the Caban in the Glade,” explains Sarah, “is that, while the yurt feels closer to nature, the caban leaves no trace on the landscape. We dissemble it each year in October. And given the spring we’ve had this year,” she smiles, “it has better insulation.” After unpacking, we walk down through the trees to meet the water-trammeled Mawddach Estuary. The Mawddach Way, a long-distance circular walk around the estuary, passes right by the site and we take a short sun-setting stroll, spotting Ringed Plover along the way. For a longer, car-free day walk, you can walk left out of Graig Wen towards Barmouth, catch the passenger ferry across the estuary and then take the Fairbourne Miniature Railway back to the nearest station at Morfa Mawddach. Dinner that night was a short drive away at the Gwernan Hotel, climbing up to the mythology-shrouded mountain of Cadair Idris to the hearth-warmed little bar and dining room with views across Lake Gwernan. The pub majors on locally sourced produce with mains around £12. My Welsh beef burger, topped with Snowdonia cheese, was hearty and tender, and all the better for a pint of Butty Bach from the Wye Valley Brewery with it. "We know all our producers and suppliers," says manager Geraint Roberts. "That way we’re sure our meat from the butcher in Bala is top quality." That night Maya and I head for bed in our hobbit house under a canvas of sky-illuminating stars. The treasure hunt may have brought us geo-caching trinkets, but a father-daughter bonding night in southern Snowdonia is something far more valuable to treasure. Graig Wen’s Caban in the Glade costs £285 per weekend (Friday-Monday), including a continental breakfast; more information on activities from discoverdolgellau.com.

Our writer, Paul Miles, makes the rocky crossing to car-free Bardsey Island, just off the Llŷn peninsula, to enjoy some birdwatching and local folklore “People used to believe that if they died on Bardsey Island, they went straight to heaven, missing out on purgatory,” says Colin Evans as we stand on the shore of this tiny holy island, known in Welsh as Ynys Enlli. He has just skippered us on a 20-minute crossing through waters swirling with fierce currents from a bay on the Llŷn peninsula. Pilgrims used to brave this two mile stretch of water in rowing boats but we have zipped across, dodging spray, in a boat with two 135Hp engines: not exactly environmentally sound, it has to be said, but it’s the only way for holidaymakers to reach this car-free speck, population eight. Colin tells us more of the history: how there was a population of 92 at its peak and how archaeologists have found no remains of the first, 6th century, abbey (although fragments of the 13th century one still stand) and that the cemetery, where legend says 20,000 early Christians (or ‘saints’) are buried, is “many skeletons deep and sometimes you might find, say, a hip bone coming to the surface.” Whereas once there were nine farms on the 0.7 square mile island, now there’s just one. Sheep and cattle graze and feed crops are grown. The island is half flat, fertile plain and half hill, that the residents call a ‘mountain’. In profile, from the mainland, it looks like a baseball cap. As well as oats and barley for the cattle, there are wildflower meadows for conservation. The island, now owned by a charitable trust, is financially supported by the RSPB and there is a bird observatory. Volunteers assist paid staff to monitor the bird life. Rare, red-billed choughs live here as well as a few puffins and, on the ‘mountain’ two pairs of peregrines nest but it is the population of thousands of Manx shearwaters that birders most associate with Bardsey. These strange, burrowing seabirds have a call that sounds like fighting alley cats. Noisy Atlantic grey seals also make their home here, some 200 of them. But only eight humans, all year round. In the summer, this increases as there are nine holiday homes to rent – the former vicarage and farm cottages, with no mains electricity and water from a spring. The houses straggle along an unpaved track at the foot of the ‘mountain’, facing meadows and fields to a square-sided lighthouse and the sea. Winding up his introductory talk, Colin points ahead of him and says: “If you haven’t been here before, I’d suggest you walk up this track here, have a tea or coffee at Jo and Steve’s house – they also sell water – and then carry on walking.” So that’s exactly what we did. Jo Porter has lived on the island for seven years. “I used to come here on holidays,” she says, as she serves us a cafetiere of coffee at picnic tables outside her house. “I fell in love with the place.” Two nanny goats wander among the tables and Jo shoos them away from her customers. When there aren’t visitors to sell teas and coffees to, she makes felt purses and weaves baskets. “It keeps me busy in the winter,” she says. Her handicrafts are on sale in a small stone-built outhouse. Following sheep tracks among bracken, between lichen-covered rocks, we hiked to the top of the ‘mountain’, that must be all of 300ft high, and paused to admire the view of farmhouse and paddocks in one direction and, in the other, a near vertical drop to the foaming ocean, above which fulmars soared. A little wood mouse peeped out from sweet-smelling bracken and I thought I heard the strange calls of shearwaters in the distance. Then, around some rocks on the spine of the hill, came a troupe of half a dozen children and four adults. They were dressed in cheesecloth shirts, sandals, stripy leggings and floppy hats. One of the women carried a small bucket that was full of clumps of lichen and shells. “We’re going to make a model of the island,” explained a little blonde girl excitedly. “And we’re going to use raisins as the cow poo!” she continued, to giggles. “Which house are you staying in?” asked a man, peering over his designer sunglasses. “We’re not,” we said, “we’re just day-trippers.” But what a perfectly old-fashioned holiday it would be. If you needed inspiration for rainy day activities, there’s a resident artist, in summer anyway. Carole Shearman runs art sessions using recycled and found materials. She showed us prints made from mushroom spores and a dangling mobile made from limpet shells. Near Carole’s studio, past gardens bursting with colourful fuchsias and hebes, along a track, edged with yellow lady’s bedstraw, is the bird observatory. It has a small exhibition on the flora and fauna of the island. You can learn how to distinguish a guillemot from a razorbill and learn why people used to dislike choughs. (“They were once thought to steal lighted candles and use them to set fire to homes,” says a display board.) The bird observatory offers good value accommodation for those who don’t want to rent a whole house. Here, you share kitchen, toilet and washing facilities with others but have your own bedroom. There’s also a library chock-full of books on flora, fauna, geography and history and the chance to assist the warden monitor the island’s birds, whether that’s setting net traps or weighing fluffy shearwater chicks.  If you feel inspired by the fact that the Welsh language is very much alive and well here, you can even partake in many Welsh language and bilingual activities and learning courses at Nant Gwrtheyrn. We peered through the windows of an empty holiday home – simple, period furniture, wooden worktops in the kitchen and a Belfast sink. It all looked lovely. We sat quietly in the chapel for a few minutes and then continued walking towards the lighthouse. Oyster catchers piped frantically from rocks and a ringed plover darted ahead of us. But the wildlife highlight was the seal colony. As we sat above the beach, we watched and listened to dozens of Atlantic grey seals resting on seaweed-covered rocks. They snorted, moaned and roared while slumbering, wobbling and occasionally squabbling. “They’re like badly behaved Brits abroad,” said my friend. Our four hours on the island were over too soon. On the crossing back, Colin skippered the boat below the cliffs. Guillemots flapped madly past us and we spotted puffins by their bright bills. Shags dived below the surface. The sea around the island, as around most of the Llŷn peninsula, is part of one of the largest ‘Special Areas of Conservation’ in the UK, thanks to its diverse habitats and plentiful marine life. That evening we dined on some of it – crab caught by local fishermen and served up in a delicious salad in the very good restaurant of the Ship Hotel in nearby Aberdaron, the setting off point for Bardsey pilgrims for generations. For today’s pilgrims, getting to and from the ‘island of the saints’ is no longer a hardship, it’s a holiday. This article was written by Paul Miles.

As part of our series on the eight Welsh Protected Landscapes, Sian Lewis visits the Gower Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and tries local delicacies, ales and 'Welshman's caviar' Make sure you come hungry both for food and beauty when you pack your bags for Gower. This little peninsula may be of modest size at just 70-square miles, but it's magically packed with wonderful places to explore, from epic stretches of perfect coastline to moorland villages, quiet woodlands and proud stone castles. It stands to reason that the place where Dylan Thomas loved to ramble be well known for its natural beauty and wealth of history, but one of my favourite reasons to head to this magical corner of South Wales is the incredible local produce on offer. Food here is fresh, plentiful and simply prepared to show off the flavours of the land, salt marsh, moorland and sea. The reason Gower's grub is so fabulous lies in its geography. Until the twentieth century the peninsula acted rather like an island, cut off from the wider world due to poor roads and a lack of trainlines. Locals had to be self sufficient to some degree and turned to the land and the water for sustenance. An emphasis on fresh, locally sourced delicacies is as strong on Gower now as it ever was. Ready for a gastronomical safari? It's impossible not to come back from the peninsula laden with handmade treats. For a caffeine buzz to kick start a day of exploring outdoors try Gower Coffee, created by surf-loving local Marcus Luporini. Each blend is named for one of the local beaches, with the strength of the bean matched by the intensity of the break. Try their Slade Bay roast and you'll be hooked. After something a little stronger? The peninsula's very own Gower Brewery creates a heavenly, award-winning nectar known as Gower Gold. If there was ever a reason to stop off for a long pub lunch it's to sample a pint of it - best served cold after a long day wandering on the cliffs in the sunshine. As for the main course, the flavours of the coast are ever present. Local women from the North Gower villages of Crofty and Penclawdd once picked cockles in the Burry Inlet, striding out into the marshes barefoot even in the depths of winter to gather the fruits of the sea and pack them off to Swansea on the backs on donkeys. You can still buy cockles from stalls in Swansea market today, although the times have changed a little and now it's hardy Landrovers out working the sands. At Selwyn Seaweeds the Selwyn family still collects cockles, mussels and delicious seaweed, which is sold to local restaurants to make 'Welshman's caviar' or laverbread, or dried in strips as a tasty snack. If there's one taste of Gower you must try it's the enticingly-named salt marsh lamb. Sheep graze the marshes eating samphire and sea lavender, and the result is a delicate flavour you'll dream of for weeks afterwards. If you visit Weobley Castle pop in to the farm shop next door and buy a shank of lamb from Gower Marsh Salt Lamb to take home. Round off dinner with something sweet. Kate Jenkin's award-winning brownies, made from her cottage kitchen with fresh Gower free-range eggs, have achieved a cult status among chocolate-obsessed foodies. Be warned if you decide to try one - you'll be hooked forever on a cocoa high. Gower changes dramatically with the seasons, and so do my gastronomical explorations. On a cold winter's day head I always head to Reynoldston and warm up at my favourite pub - the King Arthur Hotel. The ever-blazing fire in the bar is heaven after a tramp on the moors, especially with a local ale and a plate of something hearty. When summer arrives Gower is ablaze with colour, from the green cliffs to bright market stalls. At Nicholston Farm you can really get among all the produce yourself and pick your own raspberries and strawberries and veggies such as broad beans and asparagus. From pub grub to a doorstop-sized slice of cake in a cafe, you'll always eat well on Gower. But if you're after something extra special I'd suggest two must-try eateries. The Coalhouse may be new but it has already amassed an army of fans of its beautifully restored interior, stunning panoramic views of the coast and, of course, its marvellous menu. If you struggle to pick from the fabulous selection on offer I'd suggest the hake, cockle and laverbread chowder. From the coast head inland to Gower's woodlands and seek out Fairyhill Hotel's restaurant. Head Chef David Whitecross sources all his ingredients within a 10-mile radius, including veggies from the walled garden and eggs from the ducks wandering about in the hotel's grounds. It's definitely worth turning up early for a stroll around the beautiful parkland surrounding Fairyhill's ivy-clad walls before tucking into a showcase of local flavours such as sea bass, Welsh black beef and laverbread.

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to the Pembrokeshire Coast, here is our guide to how to travel to and around the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park without a car. A forward thinking local partnership that integrates public transport in the area has made it cheap, comfortable and hassle-free to travel car-free to some of the country's finest beaches. Getting to the Pembrokeshire Coast without a car By Train: The Pembrokeshire Coast and surrounding area is well served by the rail network, with major stations at Tenby, Haverfordwest, and Fishguard. Lying on the West Wales Lines, they are all served by regular services from Swansea, as well as trains right through from Manchester, as well as to Tenby from London Paddington. Most of the time, visitors from the rest of Wales and Britain will have to change at Swansea for the last part of the journey to the Pembrokeshire Coast; Swansea has regular mainline services from a range of destinations across the country, including Cardiff and London. Transport for Wales (formerly Arriva Trains Wales) also operates local services to Whitland, Pembroke Dock, and Milford Haven. By Coach or Bus: As well as local Pembrokeshire buses serving the National Park, various destinations along the Pembrokeshire Coast, such as Haverfordwest, Pembroke Dock, and Tenby are served by National Express and/or Megabus from London, Cardiff, Bristol, and several other destinations. By Ferry: If you are coming from Ireland, you can take the ferry from Rosslare to Fishguard or Pembroke Dock (both handily connecting into the rail and bus networks), with either Stena Line or Irish Ferries respectively. Getting around the Pembrokeshire Coast without a car By Train: Once in Pembrokeshire, the train is not necessarily the easiest way to travel around the National Park, however local services on the West Wales Lines do cover several destinations close to and within the National Park, and the branch along the south coast of Pembrokeshire takes in some lovely scenery. For more details and timetables, see: Arriva Trains Wales. By bus: Pembrokeshire Coast National Park has an excellent network of buses that skirt beach and cliff to take you right to many of the popular beaches, villages and towns along the coast. The Coastal Bus services consist of five main interconnecting routes (plus the 315 Between Dale, Milford Haven and Haverfordwest, the 349 running from Tenby west to Pembroke, and the 351 from Tenby east to Amroth). Each service runs along a different section of the famous coastline. There are PDFs of the following routes at: https://www.pembrokeshire.gov.uk/bus-routes-and-timetables/bus-routes-list-coastal-buses 387/388: ‘The Coastal Cruiser’ circles around the Pembroke Peninsula 400: ‘The Puffin Shuttle’, runs from St Davids to Martin's Haven 403: ‘The Celtic Coaster’ skirts the St Davids peninsula 404: ‘The Strumble Shuttle’ from St Davids to Fishguard 405: ‘The Poppit Rocket’ from Cardigan to Fishguard via Newport There are good connections with the railway network at Tenby (routes 349 & 351), Pembroke Dock (the ‘Coastal Cruiser’, route 387/388), Milford Haven (the ‘Puffin Shuttle’, the route 315), and Fishguard (the ‘Strumble Shuttle’, route 404 & the ‘Poppit Rocket’, route 405). These buses have different winter and summer timetables, but run year-round, and are supplemented by further buses criss-crossing the Pembrokeshire peninsula. For more details of all the routes and timetables in the area, see the Pembrokeshire council bus services mini-site. By bike: Pembrokeshire’s glorious coast features miles of well-maintained roads, including numerous quiet country lanes, which are virtually traffic free. The National Park is also criss-crossed by bridleways, and offers fantastic off-road biking opportunities. Cycling can be the ideal way to get to a hidden cove or hill-top view, just be sure not to cycle on footpaths such as the Coast Path if they are not specifically indicated as bike-appropriate routes. You can take bikes on most mainline train services, however places are limited so you should always reserve a space at least 24 hours in advance, by calling up the train operator (reservations are free - call 0333 3211 202, which is open 0800 – 2000 Monday to Saturday and 1100 – 2000 Sunday), or head to your local railway station ticket office. On local services in Pembrokeshire, reservations will not always be available and it will depend on space and business on individual services. Sadly, for the time being bikes cannot be taken on buses in the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park, due to the generally small size of the vehicles. The map on the National Park cycling page can help you to plan your route around the Pembrokeshire Coast, and better yet Cycle Pembrokeshire offers a range of inspiring routes to try, see: Cycle Breaks, including some fantastic interactive maps. You can search for individual cycle routes around Pembrokeshire and the rest of Wales at GPS Cycle and Walking Routes in Wales. You could also find out about the work of Sustrans in Pembrokeshire and the rest of Wales, including useful information for cyclists at Sustrans Cymru. For more information, see Pembrokeshire Coast National Park cycling. Maps and further information If you’re looking for more tailored-made help and advice for your trip to the Pembrokeshire Coast, visit the National Park’s visitor centre at Oriel y Parc, St Davids where the well-trained staff can give you lots of handy local advice, as well as plenty of maps, guides and leaflets. For the latest news, see the official website of the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park. For information about where to stay, eat, local attractions and outdoor adventure, see: Green Traveller's Guide to Pembrokeshire

Nick Stewart introduces an innovative scheme in the Brecon Beacons that involves local tourism businesses championing the uniqueness of the National Park The Brecon Beacon Ambassadors Scheme aims to provide visitors with an insight into what makes the park so special. Selected 'Ambassadors' are usually owners of local businesses who have undergone several days of training to help them share with visitors the distinctiveness of the Park's wildlife, history, cultural heritage and geology. While the National Park Authority staff (such as the wardens you might see out on the hills) are the official representatives, the Ambassadors are informal advocates of the area. Examples of Ambassadors include Punch Maughan, Glynmeddig Bunkhouse, Sennybridge, Ceri Scott Howell, Coity Bach Cottages, Talybont-on-Usk, and Keith White, Brynhonddu B&B, Abergavenny. The idea of the scheme is that by learning about the special qualities of the destination such as the wildlife, history, cultural heritage and geology, the Ambassadors are able to enhance their visitors’ understanding and appreciation of the place they are holidaying in. It’s all about the experience: getting under the skin and appreciating the special and distinctive qualities of the Brecon Beacons. In tourism circles, it’s part of what is known as creating a ‘sense of place’ – a sense that where you are is different to everywhere else. It’s done through the use of local food for example, the use of local arts and crafts in decor and the telling of true stories or myths and legends specific to the area. There’s a serious conservation aspect to training up tourism Ambassadors too. Since they have attended days of training to give visitors a better understanding of the Brecon Beacons National Park, in this way it’s hoped that tourists will leave - and come back - as keen supporters of the protected landscape. Ambassador businesses range from accommodation providers to pub landlords to walks and other activity-based businesses. The Brecon Beacons National Park Authority has gone further than this though by laying on a subset of the Ambassadors training specifically for taxi-drivers. Aptly named the ‘National Park Knowledge’ – a name that might make anyone who knows anything about London black cab driver training smile – these taxi drivers can give visitors more than just a ride to their destination. If you fancy more than your usual salt-of-the-earth cabbie type chat whilst on holiday, using a National Park Knowledge driver will reveal some interesting nuggets of information as you journey en route to your destination. Subjects National Park Ambassadors cover include ‘Sense of Place’, ‘Customer Care’ and something delightfully called ‘Park in Your Heart’ which gives a trot through 480 million years of geology and wildlife as well as topics like how climate change might impact on the Brecon Beacons – and how tourism businesses and their guests can help to mitigate these changes through the use of public transport for example. There are always more keen budding Ambassadors than there are places on courses which says something about the enthusiasm and appetite of local businesses to learn about and promote sustainable tourism wrapped up with giving their customers richer, more distinctive experiences. Details of the Ambassadors scheme can be found on the Brecon Beacons National Park Authority’s website: http://www.breconbeacons.org

As part of our celebration of the Wye Valley Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, Abi Whyte walks her favourite stretch and finds industrial relics, Cistercian ruins and a view that inspired one of our greatest poets. Whenever I think of the Wye Valley, I think of lush forested hills, carpets of bluebells and wild garlic and, of course, that meandering river winding through sleepy villages and historic market towns. I don’t often think of its industrial past but indeed there was a time, from the 16th to 19th century, that the Wye Valley was one of the most important industrial hubs in the UK. Surprisingly, amid the churn of waterwheels, the hammering of iron and the roaring of furnaces, wandered visitors drawn by its natural beauty. The ‘Wye Tour’ from Ross-on-Wye to Chepstow became fashionable and so it was that this area can be considered as the birthplace of British tourism. Day trippers, artists, writers and poets have all drawn life-affirming inspiration from the Wye Valley’s natural beauty, picturesque topography and romantic ruins. Today, the bulk of the industry has gone but the extraordinary beauty remains and I was here to see it in all its splendour on my mini pilgrimage from Monmouth to Tintern Abbey, the oldest Cistercian abbey in Wales. This 10-mile walk follows part of the Wye Valley Walk, a 136-mile route from Chepstow near where the Wye joins the Severn to the river's source on Plynlimon (also the source of the Severn). I set off from Monmouth on a cold winter morning, the river high and running rapidly after a deluge upstream the day before. Across the river I could see the enormous Monmouth viaduct, a relic of the Wye Valley Railway that closed in 1959. I soon came across another railway remnant in Redbrook; an old iron bridge that I crossed over to Penallt and its very inviting looking Boat Inn. But it was early in the morning and the pub wasn’t open yet so I moved on, following the river past trees dripping with lichen and moss. I soon came to Whitebrook, a hamlet once famed for its wireworks and paper mills that produced banknotes and wallpaper. Today Whitebrook is best known for its Michelin-starred restaurant owned by head chef Chris Harrod. Chris is all too aware of the edible bounty the Wye Valley has to offer, and is often out with his foraging basket gathering yarrow, fennel and chanterelles to wow his diners. For his lunchtime menu at The Whitebrook he'd even managed to find the sort of things you'd expect to gather along the seashore, such as rock samphire and scurvy grass, which he'd picked along the Wye's estuary. "I'm literally putting the Wye Valley on a plate - it's a constant source of inspiration," he told me, feeding me with pheasant and pumpkin canapes before it was time for me to head off again. The Wye Valley Walk took me away from the river and up into the steep forested hills onto the Duchess Ride, so named for being the Duchess of Beaufort's favourite ride in her carriage. Along the ride are perfectly situated benches offering views out over the Wye on its way to Chepstow. I could even make out the white towers of the Severn Bridge in the distance. I imagined trows (flat-bottomed boats specifically built for the Wye and Severn) laden with copper, wire, wallpaper and limestone, making their slow way down river heading to the Welsh Back docks in Bristol and out into the world of the early British Empire. After a rest and a flask of tea, I came to Cleddon Falls, cascading high above the village of Llandogo. Nearby are the Bread and Cheese Stones, a famous viewpoint supposedly where William Wordsworth in 1798 sat and wrote the poem Lines Written a Few Miles Above Tintern Abbey in 1798. From then on it was downhill through dense forest, past moss-covered stone walls and snowdrops, until I came to the Tintern Old Station across the A466. This rather special place is a perfect example of what to do with a derelict railway station – simply turn it into an award-winning tearoom and picnic area, complete with a signal box art gallery and revamped railway carriages housing a visitor information area and a shop. The site even has its own Circle of Legends carved wooden statues depicting local, historical and mythical Welsh figures. I was back at the river's edge and so close to Tintern I could almost smell a joint of Welsh lamb roasting in one its pubs. Or was I imagining it? My pace quickened as I followed the last bend of the river into this beautiful village with a restored working watermill and historic quayside. There can be no doubt that the Abbey is the star of the show; I've gazed up at the haunting ruin so many times, but somehow walking 10 miles to see it made the experience more memorable. After a Sunday roast at The Rose & Crown and a quick stop at Parva Farm Vineyard to buy a bottle of Welsh mead, it was time to unlace the muddy walking boots and dry out my waterproofs in front of a fire – in my very own log cabin at Kingstone Brewery on the edge of Tintern. As well as being a very talented micro-brewer (trust me, I've tried his ale), Ed Biggs also owns and runs a glamping village of shepherd's huts, cabins and bell tents on his meadow. Legs tired, belly full and a glass of local mead quaffed, it's safe to say I slept pretty well that night in my little wooden cabin, with the Wye river murmuring close by.

The Spanish city of Valencia is measuring the carbon footprint generated by tourism as part of a new Sustainable Tourist Strategy 2030. Visit Valencia has already carried out a study with Global Omnium that measured the sources of carbon emissions produced by tourism activity in ten different areas, including public and private infrastructure; water management; solid waste; transport to and within the city; tourists, day visitors and cruise passengers; and accommodation. The research found that "all tourism activity produced 1.3 million tonnes of CO2 in 2019, of which 81% related to tourists’ transport to the city but only 0.92% to the use of transport within the city". Just 0.01% of the tourism footprint came from water consumption and emissions from all tourist activity are equivalent to one third of the carbon footprint generated by residents’ food consumption. The report findings have been certified by the Spanish Association for Standardisation and Certification (AENOR). Visit Valencia says it has become "the first in the world to verify its carbon emissions from tourist activity", the first step in a commitment to become a carbon-neutral destination by 2025. Valencia already has two million square metres of gardens, notably the Turia Gardens and the Viveros, which act as the green lungs of the city absorbing carbon emissions; as well as 20 kilometres of European Blue Flag status beaches. Travellers are also able to explore the city on 150 kilometres of cycle paths and 40 ciclocalles (cycle-priority streets). In addition, the futuristic City of Arts and Sciences provides an eye-opening insight into what is capable at the cutting-edge of new technology and innovation. Visit Valencia’s strategy is examining the potential for energy generation using renewable sources, the possibility of having a fully electric transport system given its flat orography and maximising natural spaces such as the Turia Gardens or La Albufera in absorbing CO2. Further information: www.visitvalencia.com

by Richard Hammond Update: I travelled on the Climate Train on Saturday 30 October and have produced this short video about the youth activists on board the train who were determined to hold the politicians to account at COP: Previously: Eurostar has announced it will be running a special service from Amsterdam, Rotterdam and Brussels to Glasgow via London for delegates to travel to COP26. The 'Climate Train' Eurostar service will depart Amsterdam Central on 30th October travelling to London St. Pancras International via Brussels-Midi. From here passengers will travel to London Euston to board an Avanti West Coast service to Glasgow Central. The initiative is a partnership between ProRail, Eurostar, NS, Avanti West Coast and Youth for Sustainable Travel. In 2019, young people from Youth for Sustainable Travel organised a sailing trip to the Climate Summit in Chile. After the summit was moved to Madrid, they called on other young people in Europe to visit the climate summit by train. This initiative, called 'Sail to the COP', is now followed up with 'Rail to the COP'. Eurostar says that 'Rail to the COP' will bring together "as diverse a group as possible from all over Europe". Frans Timmermans, European Commissioner, said: "What could be nicer than travelling by train to an international climate summit? The train is sustainable and provides a lot of comfort, whether you travel for work or pleasure. More and more passengers in Europe are recognising the advantages of travelling by rail. We want to increase this number in the coming years by, for example, doubling the amount of high-speed train traffic and making international rail travel even easier. I am really looking forward to leaving for Glasgow by train with our delegation." During the trip, Youth for Sustainable Travel and the rail partners will organise a series of debates and seminars to draw attention to the important role that rail and sustainable travel can play in achieving the global Climate Change Goals. Green Traveller's Guide to How to travel to COP26 by public transport Eurostar launches direct train between London and Amsterdam (return)

(Updated January 2020) The Observer's Travel section headline article this weekend was:  Are you being greenwashed? "From B&Bs to Boeing, everyone is jumping on the environmental bandwagon, but how can we be sure that what they promise is what they deliver?" by award-winning journalist, Tom Robbins (now the travel editor of the Financial Times, Jan 2020). "Of course many firms are genuinely improving their environmental and ethical performance and are doing so with only the best motives. But others have more cynical intentions - recognising a potent new marketing tool, they are exaggerating how green, sustainable, ethical and responsible they are. The problem is working out who's doing their bit, and who's just cashing in on eco-guilt." Read the full article on Greenwashing in Tourism. Also featured in The Observer: Seven Steps to More Responsible Travel, by Liane Katz and GreenTraveller's Richard Hammond. The Expert Panel: 'Which is your favourite eco escape?" (with contributions from GreenTraveller's Richard Hammond; Lucy Siegle, Observer Ethical Correspondent; Ed Gillespie, Slow Travel exponent and co-founder of Futerra; Pat Thomas, editor, The Ecologist; Harriet Lamb, executive director, The Fairtrade Foundation).

As we launch our Green Traveller's Guide to Suffolk Coast and Heaths, Juliette Dyke discovers a slower way to see the sights as she travels under her own steam and on buses, trains and a rather quaint ferry. I’m the first to admit that I’m a nervous driver. As a Londoner, it’s not a problem as I have access to a plentiful supply of tubes, trains and buses, and so can merrily ignore the car for weeks at a time. However, when it comes to exploring the countryside, this state of denial becomes a bit of an issue. Rural public transport can be patchy and some bus services have suffered badly from cutbacks in recent years. Often it seems much easier just to hop in the car to reach the nearest lovely garden or historic house (with my boyfriend at the wheel yet again, bribed heavily with promises of cake), rather than spend time pouring over train timetables and OS maps in order to figure out how we’ll get there. However, it’s hard to ignore the fact that congestion is becoming a real problem in many popular and beautiful parts of our countryside. So when I decided to explore Suffolk Coast and Heaths AONB, I was keen to prove that it is possible to travel around without clogging up its narrow country lanes. After all, with three long distance paths and miles of cycle routes, bridleways and plenty of open access land, it sounds like an ideal place for the car-less to visit. My first port of call was Southwold on the northern edge of the AONB, which is easily reached by train to nearby Halesworth, followed by a short bus journey into town. From there you can take the ‘ferry’ from Southwold to Walberswick, which actually consists of rowing boat expertly navigated by one lady captain who charges 90p each way for what has to be the most memorable morning commute in England. Once across, it’s a short stroll into Walberswick, or you can then pick up the scenic Suffolk Coast Path to Dunwich, either along the shingle beach or inland via Walberswick Nature Reserve and DIngle Marshes or along the edge of Dunwich Forest. For cyclists, you can bring your bike on the train then join the local cycle routes from Ipswich and Woodbridge, or park at Darsham and Halesworth and then access the area by bike from there. Woodbridge itself is a great base for exploring some of the most popular local tourist attractions. There are regular bus services to Snape Maltings and the pretty coastal town of Aldeburgh, and the ancient Saxon burial ground of Sutton Hoo is within walking distance along the Deben Estuary. The National Trust will even give you a discount on your entry fee if you arrive without a car. So would I do it again? Well the best thing about exploring the AONB on foot was discovering all those quiet, hidden corners that I would never have seen by car. Stopping to ask locals for directions would often lead to friendly chats, offers of tea and some excellent insider recommendations. Sometimes it was frustrating having to wait for a bus and it did require a little extra organisation, but if you’re prepared to slow down, savour the details, and be open to the places and faces that come your way, then you’re in for an absolutely priceless experience. For bus timetables and details about the Coast Link service, visit www.suffolkonboard.com For information on walking and cycling routes visit www.discoversuffolk.org.uk For train timetables, visit www.greateranglia.co.uk Where to stay The Crown Inn is a 15th century smugglers inn, close to Snape Maltings and its world famous concert hall. They offer two en-suite B&B rooms, both stylishly decorated but still retaining a traditional feel with their old beams and sloping floors. Cheerful hosts Gary and Teresa Cook have run the Crown Inn since 2007 and are justifiably proud of their menu which includes their own home reared meats and produce from the allotment. Amongst the locally sourced dishes I tried were a delicate goat’s cheese tart, made with milk from their Anglo Nubian goats, and Dover Sole landed at Orford Quay that same morning. By all accounts the potted pork is also one of the stars of the menu, but having met Gary and Tessa’s resident pigs and even learned their names, I didn’t have the heart to order it. Which, according to the locals, makes me a big ‘city softie’. The Crown Inn is only a five minute walk to Snape Maltings, where you can enjoy lunch at Café 1885 or a sit outside the Granary Tea Room overlooking the River Alde and tuck in to a delicious cream tea. By Juliette Dyke

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Arnside & Silverdale AONB, here's our guide to how to how to travel there without a car. Photos: Diana Jarvis/Green Traveller Getting to Arnside & Silverdale AONB by public transport It's possible to take the train right into the heart of the Arnside and Silverdale AONB: there are two stations actually within the AONB: Arnside station and Silverdale station, while just outside the AONB is Carnforth station (made famous by the film Brief Encounter). The Trans-Pennine Express services connect Lancaster with Barrow-in-Furness via all three stations. From Lancaster, you can change onto mainline services, and there are frequent and direct trains to London Euston (2hr 24 mins), Manchester (58 minutes hours) and Birmingham (1hr 52 mins). For more information and to book tickets, see tpexpress.co.uk Though the trains are a great way to reach the AONB, they're not just a means of transportation... given the superb scenery from the train, travelling around by train in this part of the country is a wonderful journey in itself and a great day trip. See our feature on the great train journey Carnforth to Barrow-in-Furness. To book tickets see: furnessline.co.uk Silverdale station is also ideally situated for visiting one of the area’s main attractions, Leighton Moss RSPB Nature Reserve (250m walk from the station). Visitors arriving by public transport get free entry! Beyond Barrow, you can continue on the scenic West Coast Line to Carlisle, stopping at Foxfield, Kirkby in Furness and Ravenglass along the way. For details on steamtrains that run this scenic route, see ravenglass-railway.co.uk Getting around the Arnside & Silverdale AONB by public transport The Silverdale Shuttle bus service aims to meet trains arriving into Silverdale and runs a meandering circular route to the village centre, stopping wherever people need to disembark along the way. It’s a friendly hail and ride service, so just let the driver know where to drop you off. The service runs Monday-Saturday, except public holidays. For more information and to book tickets see: lancashire.gov.uk/corporate/web/?Bus_Services/19923 Regular Stagecoach Bus services run throughout the area, calling in at villages along the way, including: Kendal to Arnside (551, 552; 40 mins; Mon-Sat); Keswick to Lancaster via Milnthorpe and Carnforth (555); and Lancaster and Carnforth to the Yealands (55). For more information and to book tickets see: stagecoachbus.com The eastern side of the AONB is less-well served by public transport, but is criss crossed with walking routes and easily-traversed by bike. For more information on cycling routes and bike hire, see Jo Keeling's blog featured on Cycling in Arnside and Silverdale

4 Feb 2020: As Eurostar launches its new direct service both to and from the Netherlands, Richard Hammond joins the inaugural service from Amsterdam Centraal. Since 2018, Eurostar has carried over half a million passengers on its service from London St Pancras to Amsterdam (and Rotterdam), but on the return journey, passengers have to disembark at Brussels to go through passport control (adding about an hour to the journey time). With the launch of this new service, passport check-in is now carried out at Amsterdam Centraal station before passengers board the direct train through to London. The train does still stop at Brussels to pick up passengers, but those who boarded at Amsterdam no longer have to disembark and go through passport control at Brussels. This cuts the overall journey time significantly - it will now be just over 4 hours (4 hours 9 minutes) to go from Amsterdam to London, door to door. The new service will start from 30th April from Amsterdam and 18th May from Rotterdam. Tickets will be from £35 each way and will go on sale from 11th February. Eurostar tickets can be booked at www.eurostar.com or via the Eurostar contact centre on 03432 186 186. Cora van Nieuwenhuizen, Minister of Infrastructure and Water Management in the Netherlands, said: “The direct connection makes the train journey to London easier and faster. Checks in Brussels will no longer be necessary, saving travellers an hour of travel time. This way the train really becomes a fully-fledged alternative to the plane.” Video of the inaugural Eurostar service this morning at Amsterdam Centraal railway station: Mike Cooper, Chief Executive, Eurostar, said: “Our fully direct service marks an exciting advance for high-speed rail and provides consumers with a comfortable, environmentally friendly alternative to the airlines on one of Europe’s busiest leisure and business routes.” By Richard Hammond == Richard Hammond was also on the first Eurostar from Brussels to London St Pancras, read his article in the Guardian: Brussels to London in a blur