As part of our Conservation Traveller's Guide to Saint Lucia , travel writer Josephine Price writes about her visit to the interior of the island where she finds the island’s plants, people, practices and produce, too. National pride comes in many forms but she finds a dedication to nature – and sharing the lessons it teaches us – is informing and inspiring the tourism offerings across the island's interior. Photos: Richard Hammond “You are standing right here in my backyard where I was born and raised,” Arthur Anthony is fizzing with pride. “Today, the world comes to my home.” Towering trees, giant palms, pops of tropical flowers and tangled vines surround us in this plot which was once his childhood home. It’s a verdant utopia and that pride is rightly earned. He’s offering us a glimpse into his upbringing and into Saint Lucia’s verdant centre. This is the luscious fertile interior which lures guests away from those serene Caribbean beaches and into the island’s big green heart. “I think people are coming back to nature, to the land. They are coming back to the good and the simple. This is how life used to be,” he gestures to the simple wooden structures dotted around this forested trail. This trail is just one part of his Lushan Country Life experience that the 48-year-old visionary and founder created in 2020 on the seven-acre site of his parental home. It’s weaving me through the ages and stages of jungle life in the northeast of the island. “Look, the Saint Lucians are some of the friendliest people in the world,” he shrugs as we walk and talk, cracking coconuts and tasting bananas, and I imagine the world agrees as his whole family unit welcomes in swathes of tourists, from cruise ships to individual groups, each day. It’s impossible not to fall for this eco heritage tourism attraction he’s created, and for Arthur’s charm. Voices of Saint Lucia: Arthur Anthony, Owner, Lushan Country Life Interview filmed by Richard Hammond   However, the charm is not without motive. He wants to teach people about life here but also hopes to instil a sense of “eco responsibility” and love for nature, too. “I wish that the whole world would appreciate the value of nature and keeping things green, protecting the soil and having a consciousness wherever they go so that we will always be able to have a green world,” he buzzes with energy. He’s right. The more people are immersed in nature and learn about it, the more engaged they are then likely to be in pro-conservation efforts in the face of the climate emergency, through exposure to the parts worth preserving and caring for. This island is brimming with nature-based ways to feel inspired and with tourism on a healthy upward trajectory – 2024 saw arrivals up 14% at over 435,000 visitors – there’s a real opportunity to capture people’s attention and engage them. With a growing audience, it’s more important than ever to interact with the island responsibly. A flash of an iridescent hummingbird is all I need to get me engaged. The intoxicating challenge of spotting them is an island-wide activity, but it’s inland where it gets interesting. The green-throated carib is one of the three hummingbird species endemic to Saint Lucia and utterly captivates me with its small frame, darting movements and metallic colourways. My head whips from the helliconias – their preferred feeding spot which functions as a beautiful, botanical watering hole – to the trees overhead where they appear to stop for a second’s pause before flitting off again. It’s fast and fantastic – they flirt and it’s too easy to succumb. I’m floating through the four levels of the rainforest: from the forest floor, through the dense understory, the romantic, entwined canopy and the sun-soaked emergent layer. Ficus stranglers up above and boa constrictors down below add a layer of inhospitability, but the liana vines, symbiotic ecosystem, flirtatious hummingbirds and divulgent locals, eager to share their botanical knowledge, welcome you in. I’m traversing this towering ecosystem by aerial tram – one of the many options to get into the heart of the eco-park on the Castries Waterworks Reserve, a protected primary rainforest at the base of La Sorciere Mountain in the community of Chassin. Cackles of zipliners echo and fade below as we work our way higher and higher into the forest. This year-round experience immerses visitors in the lush rainforest introducing the botanical bounty along with their scientific names, local names and the stories and uses behind each. My guide Ciskia hands me a leaf from the white incense tree, or the Lansan tree, and shows me how to wipe it on my skin to help repel mosquitoes. This aromatic resin is used as a slow-burning incense island-wide too, but due to these alluring qualities the tree species is now endangered and the subject of new research to help try and promote new extraction methods and protection, according to the Flora & Fauna organisation. These lofty ecosystems invite you to care about the island’s natural splendour. But nothing impresses as urgently as the Pitons. Striking out on the southwest coast outside the former capital Soufrière, these two verdant volcano peaks imprint on the horizon as well as the memory. Further inland, the Tet Paul Nature Trail showcases one of the best views of the powerful pair and the hiking trail is a gentle way to wind up to the unforgettable viewpoint of the Gros Piton and Petit Piton. My guide, Mishak, is as full of life as you should be aged 24 but brimming with stories as if he’s lived a thousand lives. Voices of Saint Lucia: Mishach Alcee, Tour Guide, Tet Paul Nature Trail Interview filmed by Richard Hammond   He points out where he grew up on the horizon, tells me stories of his grandmother who lived till she was 111 – the oldest person in Saint Lucia, he claims – and identifies endless plant species and their healing and delicious qualities. There’s a playful confidence to his storytelling, but his concerns are clear. He points up to the mangos which haven’t dropped yet this year because of the shift in the climate. “Hopefully it’s worth the wait,” he says. The farmers are having to adapt their practices to accommodate such changes and as the island, which used to be predominately a farming island, relies heavily on tourism now, the case for tourism providing a nature-focused education and an invitation to engage with conservation efforts is vital. On instruction, I crush a bay leaf in my hand to release the bright and overpowering citrus scent, nothing like the stale, crispy ones we use at home. This green bounty here is captivating. A hummingbird flits past and lands on a helliconia. The island has offered me an education and I feel compelled to look after it. Wherever you look there are bright and captivating reminders of where you are, what’s humming around, how to tread lightly alongside an invitation to look after this precious spot. Where to stay East Winds is one of Saint Lucia’s longest-running boutique resorts and it’s easy to understand why the guests keep coming back to this all-inclusive haven. Stay here for laidback luxury set in lush verdant gardens next to a serene sandy bay. Garden tours showcase the island’s medicinal and much-loved flora and the all-new kitchen garden. Characterful accommodation, rest areas and swimming pool at East Winds. Photos: Richard Hammond == Disclosure: Josephine Price was a guest of East Winds and Saint Lucia Tourism Authority. She had full editorial control of this review, which has been written in her own words based on her experience of visiting Saint Lucia in 2025. All opinions are the authors’ own.

As part of our Conservation Traveller's Guide to Saint Lucia , travel writer Josephine Price writes about her visit to the island to see community tourism in action. From the quieter coastlines moving carefully into sustainable tourism practices to an international chocolate powerhouse supporting organic farming incentives, St Lucia is brimming with initiatives that are revitalising and future-proofing the island's offering. Photos: Richard Hammond “The green detoxifies, the purple is full of antioxidants and the gold is high in zinc”. I’m getting a health and nutrition lesson as I stand on the beach with Mervin Mathurin, the 48-year old sea moss farmer, who quit his office job in the hotel sector three years ago after 15 years in the business to return home to this bay and his heritage, taking stock of his crop. Sea moss, also known as Irish moss or by its scientific name Chondrus crispus, boasts 92 of the 102 minerals that the human body needs earning its recent reputation globally as a superfood. But it is no recent trend here. “[[Sea moss farming]] started a long time ago here with my dad and just a cluster of farmers. Nothing too much”. But business is booming in this little bay on the east of the island now – it’s the island’s biggest export – and they’re inviting you in for a taste. It’s a prime example of a thriving ecosystem entwining the local and tourism ventures. The farmers – between 150 and 170 in this bay, but around 500 island-wide – do their thing and the world has cottoned on to what they’ve got. As demand grows, there’s a younger generation of farmers, male and female, getting involved which is good for both business and the community. Across the bay, a small setup called Kayak on the Bay (a family-run restaurant and kayak hire outlet) provides the opportunity for people to go and visit the sea moss farmers and learn about the practice and their product, bringing interest and income to this part of the island where the tourism product and infrastructure is still light touch and local. Voices of Saint Lucia: Mervin Matherlin, Seamoss Farmer, Praslin Interview filmed by Richard Hammond Later, I’m standing waist-deep in the Atlantic, among the submerged plants with Mervin. “This is one of the most beautiful bays on the island for sea moss,” he tells me. It’s picture perfect to me. And it’s accessible for local farmers too. On a low tide you can access as far as the island by foot which means it attracts the farmers who can’t or don’t swim too. On top of its accessibility credentials, it’s a low-impact, short-harvest affair. You plant, you leave, you harvest, you dry, you sell. It takes six weeks from planting to product. This is small-scale farming with a light environmental footprint but a big local money impact and a global reputation. It’s even impacting activity across the community. Meveline Daage, the 35-year-old founder of the kayaking spot tells me: “Initially when I started Kayak on the Bay [[eight years ago]] it was to bring a sustainable, ecological watersporting activity to the bay. But it has shifted because all of the attention has focused on the sea moss farmers. All our guests come to see them. What is this sea moss? Everyone is intrigued about what it is.” Voices of Saint Lucia: Meveline Colmet Daage, Kayak on the Bay Interview filmed by Richard Hammond   And now the purpose of the tours has shifted and expanded to incorporate it. Local fishermen provide the daily catch, lunch is cooked by Meveline’s family (she urged her parents to move back home from Texas, USA to pitch in with the family business) at her waterside restaurant before heading out to meet the sea moss farmers, learn more about the intriguing product and visit nearby Praslin Island. It’s a symbiotic relationship that engages and feeds the community. This is an example of an impactful setup that could be modeled across the island. As one of the most tourism-dependent economies in the world, the Caribbean is a delicate proposition. Faced with rising temperatures and tides impacting coastlines, fishing industries and seaweed invasions, for example, there’s an urgency to do things with a positive impact to protect and preserve the string of islands. With more visitors than ever before and tourism development on an upward trajectory, I’m here in the eastern Caribbean island nation of St Lucia to see just how the West Indies is looking after their patch. Protecting the future is a project, but it’s also an invitation. Their island-wide warm welcomes and gracious hosting should almost come with a disclaimer: come in and get involved. And thanks to community tourism initiatives, it’s easy to. There are no alarming calls to arms here, but a gentle invitation to interact and get involved. The community tourism initiatives I experience across the island are propelled by local characters who realise what a good offering they’ve got and want to share it with the world. That’s certainly the case with Stephan at the St Lucia Bamboo Rafting project. This 22-year-old energetic soul is the supervisor here and my guide for the experience. He grew up on a nearby tributary of the Roseau River, which was once a lifeline for the producers upstream: the island’s biggest banana plantations would send their crops down on bamboo rafts to be picked up for export from the beach. It was also where Stephan played, messing about on the river with friends. And today, locals and tourists are taken down on similar bamboo rafts built by local boys. It only takes them a couple of hours to build a raft and the bamboo is in such surplus that it remains a low-impact activity. This initiative doesn’t change the landscape, coastline or the river but it does introduce visitors to one of the natural lifelines of the island and provides the local community with another way to earn money from the visitors. Voices of Saint Lucia: Stephan Charlie, Bamboo rafting guide Interview filmed by Richard Hammond   These tours have been running for three years now and it’s a gentle way to catch a glimpse of life on the water. We make our way downstream past fruiting almond trees, loud moorhens and rocky cliffs pockmarked with honey bee hives to Roseau Beach. It may be just round the bay from the hotels and restaurants of the prestigious marina at Marigot Bay but here there’s nothing more than a shack and piles of sand from government-approved sand-mining ventures. Kids dive into the water from surplus rafts, probably just like Stephan did in his day. Maybe these kids will be the ones launching the next new venture in years to come. Longevity is key to such projects, the act of giving ideas time to bed down and have an impact. Next up, I’m exploring Emerald Farm with Elijah Jules, the 43-year-old executive sous chef at the Anse Chastanet and Jade Mountain resorts. The farm has been running here for 18 years and he’s been with the resorts for 16 years. He’s having a good time, especially with his creations, and it’s infectious. Voices of Saint Lucia: Elijah Jules, Executive Sous Chef, Anse Chastanet and Jade Mountain Interview filmed by Richard Hammond   He feeds me dish after dish, adorned with herbs and ingredients from the garden, bursting with flavour and colour. A tomato gazpacho that I’m still thinking about. Fat buttery curried prawns with coconut-milk-braised green banana. Seared, herb-crusted tuna atop a shaved cucumber and grapefruit salad. This experience is available to hotel guests, connecting them with the land as well as the hotel’s community outreach and organic farming initiatives. The organic farm located in the Soufrière Hills is all about the farm-to-table experience as guests find out more about local ingredients and the provenance of the dishes onsite but it goes beyond that, enabling the resort to have a conversation and a relationship with local farmers, too. “We have the space to plant [and grow] everything we want to but we plant what the locals don’t plant,” Eli tells me. “And if we have to plant what they don’t plant, then don’t plant a lot.” Slightly further south, in the inland valley of the Pitons, Project Chocolat is another St Lucian gem with a far-reaching impact. The estate behind the UK powerhouse, Hotel Chocolat, has been pioneering sustainable and organic farming changes on the island since they launched operations here in 1994. With this vast 140-acre site, they could plant all their own crops and function independently but instead they work in collaboration with the local farmers. “The core purpose of being here was to revitalise cocoa as an industry on the island. They started with a handful of farmers in this area and they set up a programme called Island Growers where they would grow and heavily subsidise cocoa seedlings, give them to farmers and we would guarantee to buy it at a premium price,” the UK-born CEO, Emma Peacock explains. Voices of Saint Lucia: Emma Peacock, CEO Saint Lucia, Hotel Chocolat Interview filmed by Richard Hammond   It’s this style of gentle hand-holding from the island’s custodians that sets a tone and leads me through St Lucia, educating and empowering me – as they hope to with more and more visitors. There are plans to launch new tours and experiences later in 2025 through the tourism agency’s sister organisation, the Community Tourism Agency. And as Meveline at Kayak on the Bay says community involvement is key. “My hope for Praslin Bay is to see a lot more sustainable tourism practices being picked up,” she comments on the nascent industry in her corner of the island. And from the looks of it, it looks positive. The Caribbean – and St Lucia – may have its fair share of resorts but the future looks set to get more sustainable by putting the community first. Where to stay Anse Chastanet might as well be a byword for luxurious views of the Pitons on St Lucia. This resort hotel ticks the beachfront box as well as offering indulgent hillside accommodation and immersive experiences for guests. But its work goes beyond the resort. Projects include the Soufriere Foundation (a non-government organisation for the benefit of the neighbouring community), supporting coral restoration with nurseries and education as well as wider projects to help conservation, sustainable livelihoods on the island and marine health. The stunning beach at Anse Chastanet. Photo: Richard Hammond == Disclosure: Josephine Price was a guest of Anse Chastanet and Saint Lucia Tourism Authority. She had full editorial control of this review, which has been written in her own words based on her experience of visiting Saint Lucia in 2025. All opinions are the authors’ own.

Saint Lucia is blessed with some truly exceptional places to stay. Resorts like Anse Chastanet and Ladera are internationally renowned thanks to their epic setting by the island's World Heritage Piton mountains, but there are many other characterful, places like the long-established East Winds that have set the standard for low impact accommodation in the Caribbean. Here's our pick of places to stay across the island all of which have been eco-checked by a certification scheme. One of two stunning soft-sand beaches at Anse Chastanet, with the mighty Piton mountains in the distance. Photo: Richard Hammond Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Conservation Traveller's Guide to Saint Lucia :  Green = Places to stay   Blue = Food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Anse Chastanet Resort An exclusive luxury eco-resort nestled in the heart of the island’s breathtaking natural beauty in the south west, with stunning views of the Piton mountains and the Caribbean Sea. Set within a private estate of 600 lush tropical acres, Anse Chastanet borders two soft-sand beaches with access to coral reefs just offshore, so it's a great base for snorkelling and scuba diving. Rabot Hotel from Hotel Chocolat Rabot Hotel from Hotel Chocolat sits on the thriving cocoa farm owned and run by the famous chocolatier. It’s an open-air, adults-only, boutique resort overlooking Saint Lucia’s iconic Piton mountains. Located near Soufriere in the southwest of the island, the hotel is within the Rabot Estate, with 25 private luxury lodges, a restaurant and bar, infinity pool and spa. Cocoa farming is a successful and growing industry on the island thanks to Hotel Chocolat which supports over 50 farmers with its gentle farming initiatives. Fond Doux Eco Resort Saint Lucian-owned, managed and staffed, Fond Doux is within the UNESCO World Heritage site of Soufriere on a historic 19th-century working cocoa estate. Framed by 135 acres of rainforest, cocoa fields and tropical gardens, its houses originally stood around the island and have been lovingly restored and rebuilt by artisans who specialise in old building techniques. East Winds The second oldest hotel in Saint Lucia, East Winds is a small all-inclusive resort in the north, just south of Rodney Bay, that's a peaceful escape from the hustle and bustle. With 30 cottages and suites in a beautiful botanical garden adjacent to the beach, it is also home to the island’s first ‘living banana museum’. The garden produces fruit from up to 10 different varieties – in yellow, red and green. The museum was planted as part of East Winds’ efforts to help preserve varieties of bananas that are becoming rare either because they are difficult to grow or are difficult to transport and so only have a small local market. Watch our short interview with East Winds' naturalist Sylvanus Lewis: Voices of Saint Lucia: Sylvanus Lewis, Naturalist, East Winds: Stonefield Villa Resort Stay in one of 17 French colonial style villas each with its own private pool and striking views of the Pitons and Caribbean Sea. Stonefield has been identified as a place rich in history by the St. Lucia Historical Society as the owners of the resort discovered ancient rock carvings by Carib Indians on the property that directly face the Petit Piton Mountain. The calming and serene energy here is one of the first things that visitors notice. The Mango Tree Restaurant has a farm-to-table menu using fresh local ingredients such as organic herbs, fruits, and vegetables grown on the property. Weekly events and live music are also on the menu. Bay Gardens Resorts Four distinct locally-owned all-inclusive properties in the heart of Rodney Bay Village in the north of the island, close to local markets, bars and restaurants so you're never far from the action. The resorts often host Creole-themed events, including cooking classes and live entertainment. Balenbouche Estate For the past seven decades, the former plantation at Balenbouche in the south has been owned and managed by the Lawaetz family. Over the years, the family gradually converted the property into a low-impact guesthouse, organic farm and retreat centre. They are dedicated to the preservation and enhancement of the Balenbouche Estate, which remains an important national landmark, open to the public and involved in many environmental and social initiatives. Coconut Bay Beach Resort & Spa : Established 20 years ago, Coconut Bay Beach Resort & Spa is on 85 acres in the south east, just five minutes from the island's main international airport, and is home to two resorts; adults-only Harmony & family-friendly Splash. Designed to please all ages (it's home to the island’s largest waterpark), this casually Caribbean, all-inclusive resort is popular year round. From March to November the beaches are nesting grounds for three species of endangered sea turtles. During the nesting season, sea turtle watching at Coconut Bay includes beach walks, nest identification and protection as well as the thrill of seeing hatchlings begin their epic journey of survival. Photo: Coconut Bay Beach Resort Press Ti Kaye Resort & Spa On the cliff side of the west coast, Ti Kaye overlooks Anse Cochon beach. Billed as being ‘inspired by nature’, each of the 33 cottages are built into the lush natural landscape. Equipped with modern amenities and some unusual quirks, here you can unplug and indulge in outdoor showers and relax in the double hammock while watching the sunset from their balcony. Cap Maison Resort & Spa This family-owned boutique resort feels private and secluded despite its proximity to some of the liveliest parts of the island. It has also recently been selected as a Relais & Chateau hotel with an array of foodie-favourite dining experiences overseen by its award-winning executive chef, Craig Jones. Ladera Built by hand, on a UNESCO world heritage site, this resort was a pioneer in the open wall (or three-wall) concept with exceptional views of the Pitons, made possible due to the prevailing trade winds that blow in from the opposite eastern side of the resort. The 37 luxury rooms and suites are built into a ridge among overflowing tropical foliage and flowers on Saint Lucia’s southern end, near Soufrière. Sandals Resorts We don't tend to feature large all-inclusive resorts on Green Traveller, preferring instead to focus on small, characterful accommodation, but Sandals is different. Pioneers of the all-inclusive holiday experience in the Caribbean, family-owned Sandals Resorts has three beachfront resorts in Saint Lucia that include the Caribbean's first Overwater Villas. For an insight into the work it does to championing the region see its philanthropic arm, the Sandals Foundation . For ideas on where to eat, sights of interest and outdoor activities across the island, see our Conservation Traveller's Guide to Saint Lucia .

The World Heritage Pitons mountains are the mother of all attractions on Saint Lucia, but there are many other natural and cultural attractions on this fascinating, beautiful Caribbean island, from bathing mineral pools and waterfalls in the lush rainforest of the interior to community-based farming, art and craft initiatives that provide a diversity of income for local women. The Pitons are Saint Lucia’s most famous landmark; two volcanic mountains on the southwestern coast of the island. Each Piton has its own name: Gros Piton (at 2,530 ft high) and Petit Piton (at 2,438 ft high). Enjoy a guided hike on Gros Piton, Petit Piton too but it’s more of a challenging climb. Or simply admire them from the water or the many viewing points along the west coast. Photo: Saint Lucia Tourism Authority Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Conservation Traveller's Guide to Saint Lucia :  Green = Places to stay   Blue = Food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Des Cartiers Rainforest Explore the island’s lush rainforest from the east cost. Go on a guided trek to spot the rare Saint Lucia Parrot (Jacquot). Visitors will also discover the island’s birdlife along this four kilometre trail. Billed as the Caribbean’s only ‘drive-in volcano’, Sulphur Springs is home to naturally mineral rich mud pools perfect for balneotherapy healing through the practice of bathing in therapeutic waters. Locals and visitors come to dip in the hot waters and apply the sulphur mud to their skin. The mud is said to detoxify the body and helps heal sunburns, eczema, sore joints and more. It’s the ultimate natural spa treatment. Local legend insists that this experience will make you look and feel younger! Bathe in therapeutic waters at Sulphur Springs. Photo: Saint Lucia Tourism Authority Moule-a-Chique Lighthouse The Moule-a-Chique Lighthouse was built in 1912 and is said to be the world’s second highest lighthouse. It sits 740 feet above sea level and is located on the southernmost tip of Saint Lucia. Known for its breathtaking views of the island, it’s frequently visited by tourists and locals on a hike or with a picnic. The views are particularly stunning at sunset. This lighthouse also served as guidance for sailors during World War I and provided assistance in communication during the Grenada revolution. Emerald Farm is Anse Chastanet’s organic farm in the Soufriere hills, 20 minutes from the resort. A visit to Emerald Farm can be combined with a tour to the Sulphur Springs and Botanical Gardens which all together will take about 3-4 hours. Since 2007, Emerald Estate has been growing organic produce – from vegetables, micro greens, salads to fruits, spices, nuts and herbs- for the resort kitchens, There are over 1000 cocoa trees providing the cocoa beans used in the resort’s own chocolate production. Photo: Richard Hammond Sapphire Falls and Jungle Spa This guided adventure takes you through lush landscapes to the stunning Sapphire Falls, where you can unwind in naturally heated mineral pools. Perfect for nature lovers, this is a quieter alternative to the nearby Sulphur Springs. Relax in a jungle garden surrounded by palm trees and native plants, under a thatched roof Bamboo for shade. Tet Paul Nature Trai l is a family-owned trail have been described as providing the best panoramic view of the southern part of the island including the Pitons. It’s an easy climb to the viewing point and along the way you are guided through an organic farm. There’s also a picnic area to enjoy lunch. Photo: Richard Hammond Pigeon Island National Landmark Saint Lucia’s national park combines history and nature. It was a separate isle until 1972, when the government built a causeway between it and the main island for easy access. It’s also where the infamous pirate, Jamb de Bois, created a camp to ambush Spanish trade ships. Visitors can also climb around the ruins of Fort Rodney, which was built by the English to fight the French. It’s also a top spot for snorkelling. Soufrière is one of the most recognisable towns in Saint Lucia. The town’s name comes from the sulphurous aromas created by the volcanoes. Explore the town square while shopping for a few souvenirs along the way. It’s also the gateway to some of the natural wonders of the islands such as the Diamond Falls Botanical Gardens. Visitors use Soufrière as a base to hike to Toraille waterfall to cool off in the natural rainforest. Photo: Saint Lucia Tourism Authority La Tille Falls The waterfalls on the east side of Saint Lucia in Micoud is quiet and peaceful. A 20ft waterfall cascades into a pool where visitors can swim. To get to the falls and pool, you walk through a beautiful organic fruit, herbal and flower garden tended by the friendly owner. It’s the perfect picnic spot for a tranquil afternoon. For ideas on where to stay, where to find local food, and outdoor adventure activities, see our Conservation Traveller's Guide to Saint Lucia .

Saint Lucia has a wealth of soft-sandy golden beaches but if you'd the time and energy, there are lots of wonderful activities to help you discover more of this beautiful island, from sailing and scuba-diving to bamboo rafting, zip-lining, and aerial trams that provides wonderful canopy views of the lush interior. Here's our pick of outdoor adventure activities across the island. Zip-lining over the rainforest canopy. Photo: SLTA Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Conservation Traveller's Guide to Saint Lucia :   Green = Places to stay   Blue = Food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Helen’s Daughters’ Agri-tourism Helen’s Daughters is a non-profit organisation with a mission to amplify the role of agriculture and women (in the industry) in Saint Lucia and the region. Farm tours are part of the programme to raise funds and proving hugely popular. Visit a working farm and meet a local ‘FarmHER’. Hear their life stories and learn about the flora and fauna, plant some seedlings, make jam and relax by the river. Jus’ Sail is the creation of husband and wife team James and Pepsi Crockett, It offers unique, laid back sailing experiences such as day charters or sunset cruises and special moments such as proposals and memorials aboard the lovingly restored Carriacou Sloop ~ Good Expectation. The boat is crewed by the warm and welcoming duo of Captain and First Mate who were trained by the team at Jus’ Sail. Part of the company’s focus is on supporting the maritime culture through its award-winning training programmes during off-season summer months. Photo: Nigel Camp/Green Traveller Bamboo river rafting Enjoy a relaxing float along the Roseau river on a bamboo raft. Travel sedately along the almost two-mile expanse with your guide and along the way, learn about the rich history of the community on the west side of the island. The tour pauses to sample local fruits along the banks of the river. Voices of Saint Lucia: Stephan Charlie, Bamboo rafting guide Zip Lining Saint Lucia has three courses across the island. At Morne Coubaril in the south west, you can whizz through the trees with the stunning backdrop of the Pitons. Over on the east coast in Dennery is the Treetop Adventure Park. Rainforest Adventures in the north is also the home of the aerial tram (below). Rainforest Aerial Tram At around 2000 feet above sea level, the community of Chassin lies at the base of La Sorcière Mountain, which is home to Rainforest Adventures, Saint Lucia’s premiere eco-adventure park. Here, you can glide slowly up on a tram ride that takes visitors up and above the tree canopy. Experienced guides point out plants and trees and identify the calls and the plumage of the birdlife in the rainforest. The descent affords a bird’s eye view of the forest and a spectacular panoramic vista of the north of the island. Lushan Country Life On seven acres of land owned by a local family, this popular heritage experience takes you to visit an authentic Amerindian Hut, enjoy bird watching, sample fruits and local cuisine, visit the herb and flower gardens and take a leisurely walk through the forest. This is the tour to learn about the culture of Saint Lucia. Voices of Saint Lucia: Arthur Anthony, Lushan Country Life Three Peaks Challenge Bringing together all three climbs, the Saint Lucia Three Peaks Challenge invites visitors to climb each one during their stay on the island. Local experts and guides from The 758 Adventurers provide an escorted series of the three hikes which can be booked across the duration of your visit. The Challenge includes Gros Piton, Mount Gimie, the tallest peak of the three and Petit Piton is the more technical and difficult endeavour requiring ropes to climb certain sections and it is recommended that this is the first peak to be climbed. Scuba Diving Diving in Saint Lucia offers a world class experience with the island ideally situated between the Caribbean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean. With 22 dive locations featuring ship wreckages, corals, underwater trenches and valleys and even to the base of the Pitons, there is something for all levels of diving experience. The dive operators are all fully certified by international organisations with ASHI, PADI and NAUI ratings. Choose from scuba, snorkelling, SNUBA and Sea-trek. Choiseul Arts & Crafts Centre Visit this collective of Saint Lucian artisans to see them at work and buy a gift or souvenir from a wide selection of items include baskets, art, pottery and furniture. Meet the skilled crafts men and women from the creative community of Choiseul. Voices of Saint Lucia: Velda George, Craftswoman Small Six Safari The ‘Big Five’ African safari challenge has been turned on its head in Saint Lucia with a nature adventure experience affectionately called the ‘Small Six’. The tour is led by Saint Lucian birding expert and conservationist Adams Toussaint and his team including Matthew ‘Willow’ Francois. Adams originally identified the list of these small indigenous creatures that can be spotted as you explore the island. The Saint Lucian parrot is one of the ”Small Six’ and is notoriously difficult to spot. Father Nature’s Chasing Waterfalls This tour offers thrilling off-the-beaten track outdoor experiences. Explore the island whilst snorkelling, chasing waterfalls, mountain climbing and more. Experienced guides lead small groups ensuring attention and safety. Kayak on the Bay This rustic tour is nestled on the water’s edge on the east coast of the Island in the community of Praslin. Join guided kayaking across the calm Praslin inlet and visit a seamoss farm to find out how this super food is grown and harvested. There’s also an opportunity to kayak to Praslin island, home to the rare Saint Lucian Whiptail lizard. Voices of Saint Lucia: Meveline Colmet Daage, Kayak on the Bay Eudovic Art Studio Joseph Eudovic was the island’s first successful wood sculptor. He opened his Art Studio more than 45 years ago and it is still situated at Goodlands, Castries welcoming over a million visitors. An internationally successful sculptor, he uses local woods for his abstract carvings, and since no two roots are the same, every single sculpture is unique and different. At his studio on Morne Fortune, you can see his magnificent pieces on display. Horseriding Sandy Hoofs runs beach rides along the north eastern coast on hillside trails and through forgotten valleys within access to several secluded beaches. Take in the country view of grazing cows and local fishermen along the coastline. Enjoy a canter along the beach and if sea conditions allow, ride your horse in the cool sea. Project Chocolat , Rabot Estate This is an immersive initiative from Hotel Chocolat, set across six acres of the Rabot Estate. The working cocoa farm provides a hands-on experience for chocolate lovers through its Tree to Bar experience where you’ll tour the farm and learn how cacao gets from a seedling to the end-product, delicious chocolate. On the shorter experience, the Bean to Bar, you skip straight to making your own chocolate bar while gaining delicious insider knowledge. Voices of Saint Lucia: Emma Peacock, Hotel Chocolat For more ideas on where to stay, where to find local food and drink, and sights of interest , see our Conservation Traveller's Guide to Saint Lucia .

Saint Lucia packs a punch when it comes to food. From roadside grills serving freshly caught seafood to five star restaurants with international reputations, the emphasise at the many food outlets throughout the island is on local, seasonal, flavoursome dishes. Fresh, local seasonal food in Saint Lucia. Photo : Saint Lucia Tourism Authority Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Conservation Traveller's Guide to Saint Lucia :  Green = Places to stay   Blue = Food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Gros Islet Fish Fry Every Friday, this regular get together in one of the island’s picturesque fishing villages sees local vendors set up their grills serving freshly caught seafood. Enjoy the sizzling sounds and smells of street food as you sip a rum and listen to music. The fish fry is followed by a street party later in the evening so it gets lively! I-TAL experience at BodyHoliday This is a unique farm-to-fork dining experience inspired by Jamaica’s Rastafari movement. Set amidst a lush jungle environment, this vegetarian dining option focuses on nutrient-dense, organic meals that promote energy and well-being. The experience also includes a tour of BodyHoliday’s 2-acre organic farm, emphasising sustainable practices and ecological awareness. The I-TAL restaurant with its organic garden is tucked behind Coubaril Valley, sitting amongst the trees on top of a beautiful hillside. We invite you to discover a world of organic gardening and to experience lunch or dinner with a panoramic view of Cariblue Bay. Anse Chastanet Vegan restaurant The resort (see Places to Stay in Saint Lucia ) introduced an entirely vegan concept menu as part of the daily culinary offerings. Anse Chastanet offers guests a choice of four menus most nights. All menus feature vegetarian and vegan choices but the Emerald’s restaurant caters exclusively to vegans with a modern tapas style menu. Voices of Saint Lucia: Elijah Jules, Executive Sous Chef, Anse Chastanet and Jade Mountain Marjorie’s Visit the new site of Marjorie's, a local restaurant on Cas-en-Bas beach in the north. The original Marjorie's, just a stone's throw from the new venue is a Saint Lucian institution and was a favourite of singer Amy Winehouse during her extended stay on the island. This completely transformed version was completed in partnership with Cabot Saint Lucia. Enjoy local fayre whilst watching the horseriders and kitesurfers. Castries Market This lively and colourful market has been running since the 1890s and sells a range of fresh fruit and vegetables along with crafts, gifts, clothes and local spices. Head to the back of the market to find a line of food kiosks where you can try freshly prepared local dishes made with market produce. Castries Central Market has been running since the 1890s. Photo: Richard Hammond Chateau Mygo , Marigot Bay This friendly restaurant on the west coast is a third generation west Indian eaterie open for breakfast lunch and dinner. Enjoy dishes with a local touch with a great view of Marigot Bay and the marina. The restaurant also has regular live music. Duke’s Place – Gros Islet This local eaterie on the waterfront in Gros Islet is a popular spot serving up fresh seafood on the grill. It gets busy early on Friday nights before the regular street party. Naked Fisherman , Cap Maison Nestled in a natural cove just below Cap Maison, is The Naked Fisherman Beach Bar & Grill, a relaxed beach front restaurant. Due to its popularity it is highly recommended to make reservations in advance, if tables are not readily available you can take a casual seat at the bar. Orlando’s Orlando was head chef at one of the island’s leading resort restaurants before setting up his own intimate dining experience in the south west in Soufriere. This award-winning restaurant has secured a reputation internationally bringing Saint Lucian cuisine to the fore, thanks to its delicious menu of locally inspired dishes that make the most of seasonal produce. Orlando's has an international reputation for its Saint Lucian cuisine. Photo: Richard Hammond Dasheene , Soufriere Dasheene is housed at Ladera Resort (see Places to stay in Saint Lucia ), offering spectacular views of the Pitons. Executive Chef Nigel Mitchel and his award-winning culinary team have created exciting menus of innovative farm-to-table dishes of fresh takes on classic Saint Lucian dishes like Old Fashioned Pepper Pot and Shrimp Dasheene. The Coal Pot Situated on the Vigie Marina waterfront in an open-air setting, enjoy local fish such as snapper and dorado served with a choice of West Indian sauces along with rice and peas, steamed veggies, and salad. The restaurant gets its name from the traditional Caribbean cooking method used across the islands for generations. Also check out the sister restaurant the Pink Plantation House. The Reef Beach Café Head down to the south east coast to find this eaterie in Vieux Fort, serving a simple menu of Creole and international dishes. The Reef Kite and Surf is located right next to The Reef Beach Cafe, and there are tables inside as well as outside under the gum and sea grape trees on the beach. Kabawe Krawl If you’re interested in exploring Saint Lucia whilst sipping a Piton beer or sampling a rum punch then you’ll love the Kabawé Krawl. It’s Creole for pub crawl or bar crawl and is a trail of bars around the island that give you a real flavour of the different communities. It’s an opportunity to meet the locals, swap stories and enjoy Saint Lucian hospitality. You can book a guided tour around the bars with one of our local tour companies, alternatively, if you’re out and about, look for the Kabawé Krawl sign at a participating venue. Participating bars are all on Google maps. For ideas on where to stay, sights of interest and outdoor activities across the island, see our Conservation Traveller's Guide to Saint Lucia .

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Belize , Meera Dattani selects a range of outdoor adventure activities, including island nature trails, birdwatching, kayaking, and snorkelling (all with an emphasis on conservation), and a range of carefully considered, community-led cultural experiences in this fascinating and beautiful Central American country. With nature and culture at the heart of what makes Belize such a special place, low-impact activities are easy to find here. From expertly crafted food tours that go out of their way to tell the wider story of a place (as well as fill your rumbling tummy) and carefully considered, community-led cultural experiences that educate and inform about Belize’s myriad cultural groups from the Maya to Garifuna, to nature-led activities, such as island nature trails, birdwatching, kayaking, and snorkelling, with an emphasis on conservation, and local guide-led walking tours that champion small food producers and lesser-known histories, there’s no shortage of bona fide options in Belize. Meera with guide Eldon August, a tourism conservation officer from Turneffe Atoll Sustainability Association, at the 40-foot high bird tower on the Calabash Nature Trail. Photo: Richard Hammond Calabash Nature Trail, Turneffe Atoll Few things beat walking along a hammock bridge surrounded by forest before climbing a 40-foot-high bird tower on a tiny island in the middle of an atoll in the Caribbean Sea and seeing nothing but miles and miles of mangroves, interrupted only the deep blues and greens of the Caribbean Sea. This is part the Calabash Nature Trail, so-called after the towering calabash tree that the ancient Maya probably planted (you might see ancient Maya mounds made of coral rubble). You’ll learn about the poisonwood tree and its antidote, the ‘peeling skin’ gumbolimbo tree, understand the importance of mangroves in the face of climate change, and you might spot blue land crabs and iguanas. Book via Visit Turneffe (a partnership between TASA/Turneffe Atoll Sustainability Association and BlueWild Ecoventures) but it’s more likely you’ll visit via your resort or tour operator. Calabash Nature Trail is run by Turneffe Atoll Sustainabilty Association. Photo: Richard Hammond Half-Moon Caye National Monument, Turneffe Atoll This gorgeous, tiny, crescent-shaped island on Turneffe Atoll is an Audubon Society-managed national park and bird sanctuary with a lovely nature trail from the jetty to the beach. Usually crowd-free, its highlight is the treetop platform for birdwatching over the canopy, where the island's resident red-footed boobies and frigate birds congregate. Look out for hermit crabs, iguanas and turtles as you walk through the old-growth forest. For divers (and snorkellers), the caye's 900-metre reef wall makes for a memorable wall dive. See also: travelbelize.org/destinations/belize-reef/half-moon-caye Red-footed boobies nesting among frigate birds on Half Moon Caye. Photo: Richard Hammond Snorkel trail, Turneffe Atoll Belize’s first official snorkel or underwater trail is by Calabash Caye in Turneffe Atoll, and it’s been designed to show the best of reef life in the area but also educate snorkellers about the reef ecosystem and marine conservation. While the trail is only around 300 metres long, life underwater takes on a new meaning; don’t be surprised if you’ve been hypnotised for an hour or so by shoals of fish, colourful coral and swaying seagrass. Sometimes it’s worth just stopping to hover, to see who or what might pass below you. Guides will also show you the seaweed farm, an enterprising way to offer alternative livelihoods to local farmers. On the snorkel trail, Turneffe Atoll. Photo: Richard Hammond Birdwatching in Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary , Belize District, northeastern Belize A boat tour through this protected area of waterways, swamps and a 20-mile lagoon is a fantastic birdwatching spot during the November-May dry season for numerous resident and migratory birds. Crooked Tree, between Belize City and Orange Walk Town, was initially set up by the Belize Audubon Society, who manage several protected areas in Belize, and originally to protect the jabiru stork, but many other species, including kingfishers, egrets and herons reside here too. It’s a wildlife haven in general, and you might spot iguanas, howler monkeys, coatimundis, and even river turtles and crocodiles. A boat tour or kayak/canoe is a lovely way to experience the sanctuary but you can also hike along the boardwalks and enjoy incredible views from the observation towers. Crooked Tree village is also a longstanding Creole community with cultural and cooking experiences available. Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary was initially established to protect the Jabiru stork. Photo: Belize Tourism Board Taste Belize village food tour , Placencia, Stann Creek District, southeastern Belize There are food tours and there are food tours. Dr Lyra Spang is a food anthropologist who educates and feeds you over a few hours as you walk through Belize’s laidback beach town of Placencia. Starting with a chocolate tasting in her Taste Belize store, where you can also buy 100% Belize-made honey, spices and beauty products, she introduces you to her own farming background and to Belize’s cultural and historical influences. From collecting tamales (steamed corn tacos) from a Maya lady, eating rice and beans made with real coconut milk outside a roadside kitchen, and trying corn tacos at a taco stand, to herbal bitters and fried breadfruit sticks in a beach bar and trying seaweed shakes, this is a top-notch food tour that champions the diversity of Belizean cuisine. Lunch and dinner tours available, plus Placencia bar crawl, cacao farm visits, and Garifuna and Maya cooking classes. Meera with Dr Lyra Spang on a food tour of the laidback beach town of Placencia. Photo: Richard Hammond Garifuna Cultural Immersion Experience at Lebeha Drummers, Hopkins, Stann Creek District, southeastern Belize This cultural experience run by Hopkins Uncut is a fantastic introduction to Garifuna drumming, traditions and food, with an underlying objective of keeping Garifuna culture alive and accessible for future generations. After watching a mesmerising drumming performance, you’re invited to take a seat and have a go yourself – it’s a privilege to drum alongside the Lebeha Drummers who perform around Belize and internationally. The cooking lesson is just as fun and perfectly steered by chef Kenima Williams who teaches you to make a delicious hudut soup of coconut milk, peppers, chillies and fish (optional), and served with plantain. It’s very interactive and you’ll be grating coconut husks, mashing plantain using a huge (person-height) pestle and stirring it all up before sitting down to a delicious lunch. More info: Booked via Hopkins Uncut | Lebeha Drumming Centre | Kenima’s Garifuna Cooking Class Meera learning to drum alongside Lebaha Drummers. Photo: Richard Hammond River kayaking on the Macal River , San Ignacio, Cayo District, western Belize For stellar birdwatching, green iguana-spotting or simply a relaxing paddle, go kayaking or canoeing down the Macal River. It’s relatively tame i.e., the water is mostly flat and Grade 1 if we’re talking rapids, making it one of the best spots for river kayaking for all abilities, and you can do it guided or self-guided. Depending on how long you have, you might want to stop at the botanical garden, butterfly farm or tour the medicine trail at Chaa Creek Lodge. Look out for kingfishers, mangrove swallow and the Black Phoebe, or you can book a specialist birdwatching guide too. Even if you just want to row the calm waters of the lower Macal, it’s a real treat. Experienced kayakers might want to consider the Mopan River instead. San Antonio Women’s Co-operative , Cayo District, western Belize Just outside the town of San Ignacio, San Antonio Women’s Co-operative is a female-empowered, community initiative led by Timotea Mesh with a dual purpose of empowering local women and young girls, and preserving Yucatec Maya cultural traditions, from recipes to pottery to embroidery. After an introduction to the cooperative, guests take part in an interactive cooking class, learning to grind corn kernels into a soft dough and making homemade corn tortillas. There's a chance to try your pottery skills - a lot harder than it looks - before enjoying one of the best lunches you'll have in Belize. Learning how to work with soft dough at San Antonio Women’s Co-operative. Photo: Richard Hammond Eladio’s Farm & Chocolate , Punta Gorda, Toledo District, southern Belize The cacao bean is Maya ‘gold’. In Belize’s southern region of Toledo, Eladio Pop has been taking guests on cacao farm tours for many years where guests can take a short trail through the forests where Eladio cracks a cacao husk , before learning about the bean-to-bar process. You get the chance to take part in cracking, winnowing and grinding the cacao bean, before tasting the chocolate the Maya way; an unsweetened chocolate drink served from a gourd. That’s when you’ll realise how much sugar and milk goes into the chocolate we know! Living Maya Experience , Big Falls, Toledo district, southern Belize Since 2012, the family have been sharing local Kek'chi Maya customs and culture from a recreated traditional Maya home, as it might have been as recently as 50 years ago, in the village of Big Falls. You might watch a skilled artisan produce detailed the Maya craftwork or play traditional musical instruments, and learn about the importance of the forest to Mayas - everything from food and medicine to furniture – and a tour around the yard reveals the importance of plants, herbs and spices. Guests can also get involved in preparing food, such as making corn tortillas or grinding cacao beans, before helping to cook on an open fire. Vegetarians are catered for too; just let them know when booking. Mennonite community visit, Orange Walk District, northern Belize Know for their tight-knit, often private communities, the Mennonites of Belize are conservative Christians of Dutch/German descent who fled Europe from the 17th century; there are around six communities numbering 12,000 in northern Belize’s Orange Walk and Cayo Districts. Tours are limited but sensitively organised with families, such as Cornelius and Anna Schmitt, who are comfortable sharing stories and traditions. Using limited modern technology, they’re known for their work ethic, and own and run some of Belize’s biggest dairies and farms (not without contention, of course, but that’s another story). A horse-and-buggy tour at Indian Creek ends with a delicious lunch of schnitzel, pickles, salads and potatoes. Mennonite communities, like any, vary from the traditional to modern, and the tour challenges assumptions and invites you to ask questions. Booked via lamanai.com . The Mennonites of Belize are conservative Christians of Dutch/German descent. Photo: Richard Hammond Orange Walk Town taco and town tour , Orange Walk District, northern Belize Northern Belize doesn’t appear on all itineraries, but Orange Walk Town, Belize’s third largest city, has a rich history captured in Banquitas House of Culture, and is a great place to observe everyday life. Tour guide Manuel Novelo’s passion for his hometown is infectious. Tracing its history from its time as a Maya trading route to an outpost for the British-run logging camps, Novelo shares his knowledge, including OWT’s status as the town of tacos (each year, it hosts a TacoFest), leading you to his favourite spots in town including his must-visit taco stands. Novelo is also an environmentalist; during lockdown with his grandchildren, he planted mahogany trees, a species logged to near-extinction during colonial rule. Tour guides with heart and soul can bring the most unassuming town to life. The start of Meera's Orange Walk Town tour with local guide Manuel. Photo: Richard Hammond For characterful places to stay, where to find local food and drink, and places of interest throughout Belize, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Belize

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Belize , Meera Dattani selects a range of visitor attractions, from food markets and national parks to scuba diving sites and ancient Maya sites, in this historic Central American country. National parks, world-class dive sites, community tourism, and Maya temples are among Belize’s many attractions. While logging and hurricanes have left their mark on Belize’s forests, with much of it secondary growth, ancient trees remain in protected areas where the canopy ranges from 40 to 120 feet and wildlife flourishes. Belize’s Maya sites are impressive and numerous and it’s worth visiting at least a couple to get a sense of its past. Where possible, book local guides, particularly for the Maya sites in order to have a true insight from a knowledgeable Maya guide. Guides are generally very knowledgeable, friendly, and it’s a way of supporting the local economy in an equitable way. Meera with guide Eduardo at High Temple, Lamanai. Photo: Richard Hammond San Ignacio town, Cayo District, western Belize The largest town in western Belize, San Ignacio is a place you can easily while away a few days; there are some great hotels, excellent bars and restaurants, and it’s a brilliant base for experiencing the region’s Maya sites, hiking trails and rivers. But the town itself has plenty to offer too. San Ignacio Market on Tuesdays and Saturdays is a lively, local market where you can enjoy delicious tacos, burritos, pupusas (corn griddle cake) and grilled meats, and pick up fresh fruits, nuts, crafts and clothes. San Ignacio Resort Hotel’s Green Iguana Conservation Project  is also worth a trip (hourly tours from 8am-4pm; book online) while a 10-minute uphilll walk takes you to the Maya site of Cahal Pech, settled around 1200-1000 BC and former home for an elite Maya family. Go early or late afternoon to avoid the heat and catch the best light for views over the temple and river. Entrance to the San Ignacio market. Photo: Richard Hammond Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary, Hopkins, Stann Creek District, southeastern Belize While Cockscomb is best known as home to the highest number of jaguars, it’s difficult to spot these elusive creatures. If you’re determined, book a guided evening tour or stay at least two or three nights; even then, keep expectations in check… the sanctuary covers over 128,000 acres of jungle in the Cockscombe Range of the Maya Mountains, add another 120,000 acres of neighbouring Bladen Nature Reserve, and you can see why jaguar-spotting is a challenge. But by day, there’s a chance of seeing animals such as ocelots, deer and tapir – and you should hear the howler monkeys too. There’s great birdlife with over 300 species including the keel-billed toucan, scarlet macaws and several species of hawk, and the jungle hiking is some of Belize’s best. Belize has over a rich diversity of wildlife, including ocelots (top right), toucans and howler monkeys Photos: Belize Tourism Board Lubantuun Maya site , Toledo district, southern Belize The largest Maya site in southern Belize, Lubaantun has become known for the number of ceramic objects found among the stones, believed to be charmstones or items using during Maya rituals. One of the most common items is a type of whistle-figurine which can play three different notes. Lubaantun looks different to many similar Maya sites, using mostly large stones of black slate, laid so carefully that no mortar was used, and the name translates to "place of fallen stone.”  There are various theories about the role of Lubantuun; the Grand Plaza is so vast that some believe it was a commercial centre, perhaps for a central market and on a trading route. It’s worth taking your time for a wonder to see the ball courts and rituals area. Xunantunich, Cayo District, western Belize The old-school, hand-cranked (free) ferry that takes visitors to Xunantunich across the Mopan River is reason enough to visit this vast, impressive Maya site. With six plazas and over 25 temples, palaces and ball courts (plus countless Maya mounds yet to be excavated), this site really conveys the breadth and scale of Maya architecture and skill. The largest pyramid is El Castillo at 130 feet high (second tallest in Belize after Caracol) and if the weather is clear, views stretch across into Guatemala and up towards Caracol in the Mountain Pine Ridge Forest Reserve. A guided tour is highly recommended for a real understanding of the site, plus it supports local guides. The impressive Mayan site at Xunantunich. Photo: Nathan Allen/Belize Tourism Board Lamanai Maya temples, Orange Walk District, northern Belize With its enviable spot on the New River, Lamanai, which means ‘Submerged Crocodile’, is one of the most intriguing sites in northern Belize. Set in the rainforest, there are stunning views from some of the temples, although at time of writing, you can’t climb the High Temple. Don’t miss the carved limestone masks of the Mask Temple and the stone jaguar formation on Jaguar Temple before climbing up for views. Lamanai was occupied for over 3,000 years and as a result, had a large, long-standing, prosperous Maya community until  European contact in 1544. The Archaeological Reserve also has a museum – there’s a well-preserved mask showing a Maya ruler appearing from a crocodile headdress – two Spanish church ruins and a 19th-century brick sugar mill. The boat ride to/from Orange Walk Town is gorgeous (and avoids the alternative – a bumpy road) with a chance of seeing iguanas, Morelet’s crocodile, and plenty of birdlife. The impressive Mask Temple at Lamanai. Photo: Richard Hammond ATM - Actun Tunichil Muknal, Cayo District, western Belize A 45-minute drive from San Ignacio followed by a 45-minute to one-hour hike through the Tapir Mountain Nature Reserve leads you to the cave opening of Belize’s legendary Actun Tunichil Muknal (ATM) cave, known locally as Xibalba and translates to ‘cave of the stone sepulchre’. A combo of swimming, wading, clambering and hiking takes you to one of Belize’s most fascinating Maya sites, its subterranean chambers home to the calcified bones of a teenager girl (known as ‘The Crystal Maiden’) alongside skeletons, stoneware and ceramics including the famous ‘Monkey Pot’ with its rare design. A reasonable level of fitness is recommended and claustrophobes might want to avoid. Book in advance as there’s a daily limit and note all tours are guided and weather-dependent. Belize Botanic Gardens, Cayo District, western Belize If you’re botanically minded, these 45 acres of gardens set in a valley on the Macal River surrounded by the foothills of the Maya Mountains are a must if you’re near or on your way to San Ignacio. With two miles of trails, it’s an excellent place to learn about the medicinal plants and their use in Maya medicine on the medicine trail, while the orchid house is home to some spectacular treats from Mother Nature. There are mahogany trees, once the centre of Belize’s logging industry, on the rainforest trail, over 100 palm species in the palm areas, and an impressive collection of gingers and heliconias in the ‘zingiber alley’. Hamilton Hide is a good spot for birders. Great Blue Hole, near Lighthouse Reef Picture, if you will, a huge sinkhole surrounded by a glittering ring of coral in the middle of the Caribbean. That’s the Blue Hole, a UNESCO site probably formed at the end of the last Ice Age, one of Belize’s most popular spots, and a must for divers. With Belize home to the world’s second longest barrier reef, the Blue Hole is part of this Belize Barrier Reef Reserve System and is approximately 1,000 feet across and over 400 feet deep - the site was made famous by oceanographer Jacques Cousteau who called it one of the world’s top dive sites. Marine life includes reef sharks and giant groupers, but it’s also the rock formations that lure divers there. Book with a reputable operator who has guidelines on marine conservation and advice on diving responsibly. Great Blue Hole, Belize. Phote: Belize Tourism Board Mayflower Bocawina National Park, Alta Vista, Stann Creek District, southeastern Belize If you’re lucky, one of the first things to greet you as you enter Mayflower Bocawina National Park is the eardrum-busting sound of the howler monkeys. Rarely as close as they sound, but as the world’s loudest primate, you might feel a monster is upon you. Established in 2001 to protect the area’s biodiversity and the park’s Maya sites, Bocawina which is just 20 minutes from Hopkins and Dangriga villages, has a good selection of hikes such as the do-able Bocawina Falls Trail to the more challenging Antelope Falls Trail, and there’s zip-lining and abseiling too. Take swimwear if you’re partial to a dip as there are several waterfalls inside the park. If you’re without a guide, ask the rangers for up-to-date advice. Entering the Mayflower Bocawina National Park with a local guide. Photo: Richard Hammond Belize Zoo and Tropical Education Center, Belize District, northeastern Belize More of a rescue centre than a zoo, its 29 acres of forest are home to around 150 injured, rehabilitated and orphaned animals covering 45 native species such as tapirs, coatimundi, and scarlet macaws. With wildlife conservation and education its central mission, animals are returned to the wild if viable. Belize Zoo is also frequented by creatures from the outside jungle - night tours are best as many resident creatures are nocturnal. With strict rules such as no feeding or touching animals, there's a concerted effort to promote better human-wildlife engagement. It's also fully accessible for wheelchair users and anyone with physical disabilities. Monkeys are one of the 20 species at Belize Zoo. Photo: Belize Tourism Board The Museum of Belize, Belize City, Belize District, northeastern Belize Set inside a former prison in the city’s Fort George District, the building was built during British colonial rule in the mid-19th-century, and turned into the Museum of Belize in 2002. Inside, Maya artefacts, historic Belize stamps, vintage photos and interesting memorabilia does a good job of telling the story of Belize from ancient Mesoamerican times to slavery and colonisation when it was British Honduras, and through to independence. It doesn’t have as many items as you might want or expect; many reside in museums and other organisations around the world. There’s also an art gallery, gift shop and a small exhibit on Belize’s birdlife. Caracol Maya temples, Caracol District, northern Belize Belize’s largest Maya site is also one of its most impressive, buried in Chiquibul Forest Reserve near the Guatemalan border. It’s believed that at its peak in Ad 650, this Maya city occupied anything from 40 to 70 square miles with a population of around 100,000. It was an example of Maya ‘technology’ at its best, with rainwater reservoirs and cleverly designed terraces to grow all the crops they needed, and the complex was full of markets, palaces and temples including Caana, Belize’s highest structure. Caracol may not be the easiest site to reach, but it’s worth it and half the adventure lies in reaching this Maya city deep in the jungle. Caracol is an example of Maya technology at its best. Photo: Belize Tourism Board Find characterful places to stay, places that serve local, traditional seasonal food and drink, as well as outdoor adventure activities and carefully crafted community-run cultural experiences in our Green Traveller's Guide to Belize .

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Belize , Meera Dattani selects a range of places to eat, from food tours and food parks to locally run cafes and beachside restaurants. The diversity of food in Belize may seem remarkable, but less surprising when you consider its history. From traditional Maya recipes and Kriol cuisine to Garifuna dishes from the country’s Afro-Indigenous population where coconut, fish and spices are the key, Belize’s food culture and choice is a history lesson in itself. Rice and beans, and beans and rice, are a staple – and no, they’re not the same thing – with chicken, fish and seafood always on the side, while filled corn tacos and tortillas are a mainstay of most Belizean restaurants. For vegetarians, there are always options even if fish, seafood and meat dominate many menus, and friendly staff and chefs are usually happy to make tweaks. If you like things hot, there’s always a bottle of Marie Sharp’s hot sauce nearby… Some of the local flavours in Belize. Photos: Richard Hammond The Truck Stop, Ambergris Caye There’s no shortage of places to eat in San Pedro but a mile north of the bridge en route to Secret Beach is Belize’s first shipping container food park and beer garden, complete with a saltwater pool, swim-up bar, 18-foot film screen, three restaurants, outdoor games and a dizzying schedule of events from 11am to 10pm daily. While owned by non-Belizeans, there is an emphasis on community events and charities, and a monthly market where sellers come from around Belize to sell their food, crafts and other goods. There's a great selection of dishes – favourites include kung pao egg rolls from Raja, fried sweet plantain from Sol Fresca, and ice cream and shakes at Cool Cone.   Estel's Dine by the Sea, San Pedro, Ambergris Caye This beachfront restaurant is one of the best spots for breakfast and lunch in a place with countless food options . Run by Charlie Sr., Estella, and Charlie Jr. it's a lovely place to start the day with filling breakfast burritos, huevos rancheros, French toast and fresh juices while lunch includes fresh fish, tamales, Kriol rice and beans, sandwiches and more. They also do daily lunch specials like salbutes (deep fried tortillas), empanadas or conch soup with coconut rice. You can also stop by coffee or a drink on your beach walk, and weekend BBQs are advertised on their Facebook page. Chef Juan’s Kitchen & Pastries, Caye Caulker Sometimes the most unassuming spots turn out to be the best ones, and this is one of those with shared tables and a convivial atmosphere. You can also bring your own beer/wine. Open everyday bar Tuesday from lunchtime onwards, Chef Juan’s Kitchen & Pastries serves up a tasty menu. Favourite dishes include the aromatic seafood curry with coconut milk, jerk conch, and whole red snapper, and spice levels are fairly Belizean so don’t be too gung-ho when asking for ‘extra spicy’… Dessert-wise, it’s the key lime pie has punters salivating (and returning) – get there by mid/late afternoon to avoid missing out on the last slice. Barefoot Beach Bar, Placencia Owned and run by two Belizean sisters, this Belize-owned and run bar on Placencia’s beach, just off the ‘Strip’ is full of life and warmth with colourful furniture, lively staff and a top beachside location. As well as a great selection of reasonably priced cocktails and local beers, they also have a bespoke ‘bitters’ made from local herbs which is delicious (down or sip, as you please). Foodwise, the smoked fish dip with tortilla chips is one of their top sellers, and the fried breadfruit is very more-ish. By night, travellers often flit between here and neighbouring, also Belizean-owned and operated bar Tipsy Tuna , where you can tuck into wings, burgers and wraps, with Garifuna drumming and other events on selected nights. Brewed Awakenings, Placencia The daily roasted coffee beans and sublime coffees are not the only reason to visit this airy, inviting upstairs café with a patio in Placencia; they also serve over 30 different seaweed shakes. Seaweed is said to contain a wide variety of vitamins and nutrients and shake flavours include key lime pie, mint ‘n’ chip, and espresso; they are genuinely delicious (and no, you can’t ‘taste’ the seaweed). Brewed Awakenings also serve up tropical fruit smoothies and protein bowls, with ingredients such as aloe vera pods added, plus innovative cakes such as courgette and pineapple muffins and rum and chocolate cake. Guava Limb, San Ignacio One of San Ignacio’s most popular restaurants, Guava Limb deserves its place for its consistently delicious food and fun atmosphere. Fruit and vegetables come from their 32 -acre Maya farm in the Macal River valley, and dairy and meat is sourced locally. It’s an eclectic menu with dishes such as shrimp and conch ceviche, Maya farm salad, Indonesian gado-gado, blackened fish and Thai lettuce wraps. And if you fancy burgers, pizza or pasta, they really do come highly recommended here. There’s indoor seating, a large patio, and an upstairs porch – perfect for enjoying coffee with a view over the Macal River. Ko-Ox Han Nah (Let's Go Eat), San Ignacio If you’re after classic, local Belizean and Caribbean dishes in a friendly, family-run setting, Ko-Ox Han Nah ticks all the boxes. Open from 6am, they serve filling Belizean and European-style breakfasts, but it’s the lunch/dinner dishes that stand out, for vegetarians too. There’s an excellent choice of dishes such as coconut rice with beans and chicken while callaloo greens or chaya (similar to spinach) and fried plantain make great sides too, plus Belizean and South Asian curries including a super-hot vindaloo, if you dare. You’ll also find a pretty extensive list of quesadillas, burritos, sandwiches and burgers, and a huge drinks menu including craft beers, local rums, shakes and kombucha.   Smookeez Seaside Restaurant & Bar, Belize City Right on the water with views of the Caribbean Sea and a soundtrack that ranges from reggae to 80s pop, this 100%-Belizean owned seaside spot is known for its great food, sundowner cocktails and friendly staff. Its ‘cracked conch’ deep-fried fritters, fried fish, ceviche dishes and pulled pork tacos are well-loved by locals and visitors, and they also have a good vegetarian selection including an aromatic coconut vegetable curry and Beyond Meat burgers, steak and pasta dishes, plus a medley of salads, tacos, wraps (including lettuce wraps) and nachos. It’s the waterside setting that really makes this place and it’s well worth coming for a cocktail and snack if nothing else. Island Breeze Bar & Grill, Dangriga With a spacious outdoor deck looking onto the beach, Island Breeze Bar & Grill is a lovely spot in Dangriga (formerly known as Stann Creek Town by colonialists ), even if it’s just for a drink and snack. The menu is skewed towards meat, fish and other seafood, but there’s a decent vegetarian selection including chips and salsa, veggie burger and quesadilla, salads, and fried cassava or plantain. The highlights though are dishes like shrimp kabob, arrachera meat tacos, whole fish fillets, and sizzling fajitas, and portions are pretty hearty. Like many spots in Belize, their cocktails and mocktails are worth a swig, and the views make it a top spot for a sunset drink. Swinging Armadillo Beach Bar & Restaurant, Hopkins Hopkins is widely known as the cultural centre of Belize’s Afro-Indigenous Garifuna culture, and this over-water bar and restaurant on the beach does a great job of celebrating Garifuna and Belizean cuisine, and there’s Garifuna drumming on Thursdays. Coconut milk and fruits such as pineapple and mango make a frequent appearance in dishes created by the village chef, whether fresh lobster (in season), prawns or chicken, and sides include sweet potatoes, yams and cassava, all of it organic. It’s a great place to sip a Belikin or Lighthouse beer or enjoy a slice of cake and coffee. Coffee beans come from G allon Jug, a Belizean coffee farm, and seasonal desserts include banana bread, sweet potato pudding or ice cream from a Mennonite-run B elizean dairy.   Asha’s Culture Kitchen, Punta Gorda Looking out onto the water, Asha’s Culture Kitchen is a special spot in the coastal town of Punta Gorda (or PG) in Belize’s southern Toledo region. With an emphasis on Kriol cuisine, it’s paradise for seafood lovers especially, with a daily changing menu that may include sustainably caught snapper fillet (sometimes caught by head chef Asha himself), fried conch or the invasive lionfish, while their tropical fruit shakes are a real palate-pleaser. The waterfront deck is also a great place for wildlife-spotting and if you’re lucky, you might just glimpse dolphins or even manatees. There’s live music on occasion which celebrates Belize’s diversity so you could hear Creole or Garifuna drumming or the sounds of Maya marimba. You can also book cooking lessons and sustainable fishing trips.   Fi Wii Food Restaurant, Punta Gorda, Toledo district, southern Belize Right on the seafront at one end of Punta Gorda town, this no-frills, welcoming independent restaurant ticks all the boxes when it comes to great food (and prices). Local and seasonal ingredients shape the Belizean-inspired menu with dishes such as conch coconut curry (they make their own coconut milk) fresh snapper and lionfish (and lobster, in season), as well as serving up global dishes such as pasta, BBQ ribs and onion rings. Even if you don't eat here, come for the juices, said to be the best in town, with innovative combos such as beetroot and ginger, and refreshing, cooling cucumber concoctions. For characterful places to stay, places of interest and a range of outdoor adventure and carefully crafted community-run cultural experiences, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Belize

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Belize , Meera Dattani selects a range of characterful places to stay, including hotels, rainforest lodges and beach cabanas, in this beautiful Central American country Fancy staying in an atmospheric rainforest lodge and waking up to the joyous sounds of Belize jungle life? Or a barefoot-luxury beach cabana on Ambergris Caye or Caye Caulker with brilliant blue Caribbean views or staying in a remote island resort in one of Belize’s atolls, where you feel a million miles from anywhere? Perhaps you’re after a boutique hotel in Belize City or somewhere along Belize’s 174-mile (280-kilometre) Caribbean coastline? From locally owned and/or locally run hotels, villas and lodges to accommodations that are environmentally and socially conscious, this lesser known destination in Central America packs in a wide variety of places to stay.  A bird's eye view of the diving jetty at Blackbird Caye. Photo: Richard Hammond Blackbird Caye Resort, Turneffe Atoll Few things beat a Belikin beer or Panty Rippa cocktail by the oceanfront pool bar or seaview terrace of Blackbird Caye Resort’s thatched bar, where guests gather for pre-dinner snacks and conversation. An all-inclusive (no atoll high street) PADI-certified dive resort, Blackbird Caye works with TASA (Turneffe Atoll Sustainability Association) to promote best-practice ocean conservation on its diving and snorkelling excursions. 17 spacious, oceanfront cabanas (the walk-in shower is huge) stretch out along the sand, with screened balconies. Food is delicious from the kitchen headed up by chef Elvis, using local fish, fresh fruit, and Belizean breakfast favourites such as fry jacks and banana bread. Filtered water, thanks to reverse osmosis purification, limits plastic bottle use too. Glover’s Reef Basecamp, Southwest Caye On the tip of a coral island on Southwest Caye 35 miles off Belize’s coastline, this 13-acre island has been owned by a local family since 1942 where a solar-powered safari-style tented camp offers an alternative to the resort experience, with trips operated by Island Expeditions. For divers and snorkellers, it’s a sublime spot, with the barrier reef stretching along one side, and a seven-mile, reef-packed lagoon on the other, and guests have free use of kayaks, SUP (paddleboarding) and snorkel gear. Tents are simple, with proper beds, kerosene lamps and private decks - it’s cosy, sociable and nature-powered. Xanadu Island Resort, Ambergris Caye As Belize’s first hotel to receive the UN-affiliated Green Globe certification, Xanadu deserves a mention as one of the country’s pioneering ‘green’ accommodations, particularly given its location in Belize’s top tourist destination of San Pedro on Ambergris Caye. Five huge domes are home to 20 colourfully decorated apartment-style suites where you can cook (no on-site restaurant) using local ingredients; there is a small bar though serving coffees, smoothies and alcoholic drinks, otherwise you’re a short walk from San Pedro’s many local restaurants. Activity-wise, there’s a freshwater pool, seaview whirlpool, man-made reef for snorkelling, and tons of hammocks and sun loungers in the gardens and palapa (open-sided, thatch-covered seating). Jan’s Hotel, Caye Caulker Describing itself as a “home away from home”, Jan’s Hotel on low-key Caye Caulker is a locally owned hotel that’s a five-minute walk from The Split, the heart of Caye Caulker and where all the restaurants, bars and nightlife live. Rooms are super-clean, simple and comfortable, all with a mini-fridge (handy as there is no restaurant on-site) plus a handful of suites with a kitchenette. Rainfall showers and eco-friendly toiletries are welcome too. The hotel has its own small, palm-shaded beach area with plenty of loungers, a jetty, free use of kayaks, and staff can arrange diving and snorkelling trips. Don’t miss the beautiful views across the island from the rooftop patio, especially at sunset. Mariposa Beach Resort, Placencia The six treehouses are the highlight of this small, boutique beach resort, set in the tropical gardens en route to the main building (where the five renovated oceanfront suites and 11 rooms are). The treehouses are inviting and comfortable, each with a private deck and hammock to while away the hours. Food at the resort’s all-day Breezeway Restaurant and Pool Bar, which features local art and Belizean-made furniture and looks onto the resort’s beach (kayaks, snorkel gear and paddleboards free for guests), includes ceviche, pizzas, salads, pork, pibil tacos, and Creole gumbo; try Mariposa’s roasted garlic bulb with goat’s cheese and apple chutney. Breakfasts are interesting, with usual suspects plus Belizean favourites, such as fry jacks with refried beans and Maya breakfast with eggs, chaya (a local spinach), and fresh cheese. The cocktail menu is fantastic too. Treehouses at Mariposa Beach Resort. Photo: Richard Hammond The Ellysian Boutique Hotel, Placencia This luxury, calming 13-room boutique beachfront spa hotel, in the laidback beach town of Placencia has extra kudos for being curated by the former first lady of Belize. Kim Simplis Barrow, whose work focuses on helping disenfranchised children through various organisations, while her ‘SHE for BELIZE’ Foundation advocates for women’s rights and supports women entrepreneurs. Relax with a mixologist-made cocktail at The Trap pool bar while the Muna Rooftop Restaurant & Bar makes the most of local produce; try the Belikin Stout braised short ribs, conch fritters and fresh salads – and at breakfast, the stuffed fry jacks and quinoa-corn pancakes offer some local flavours. Coconut Row, Hopkins The coastal town of Hopkins is a brilliant base to experience the culture of the Garifuna, descendants of an Afro-Indigenous population from St Vincent who were exiled to the Honduran coast then moved to Belize. Locally owned and run, Coconut Row is a boutique hotel with a saltwater pool in Hopkins village that has also one of the village’s best restaurants, pool/beach-side The Coconut Husk; popular dishes include plantain fries, coconut curry, Fish N Jack (fried fish in a fry jack bun) and Belizean breakfasts. Rooms are gorgeously decorated with Belizean prints and furniture and are a mixture of beachside cabins, standard rooms and larger suites apartments. The owners live on-site and also own Buttonwood Belize, three blocks away, which has beachview rooms and suites, and a rooftop. Falling Leaves Lodge, San Ignacio Owned and run by a Belizean family since it opened in 2019, this boutique lodge is warmly run by Miss Paula and Christina. With a great choice of rooms with private patio, rustic stone house rooms, cabanas and honeymoon cabanas (with whirlpool), and a holiday villa, best of all is its location on Cahal Pech Hill, a short walk from the atmospheric Cahal Pech Archaeological Reserve. A pool is scheduled to open later in 2024. Their Obsidian Restaurant has sweeping views over the surrounding countryside and the Belizean-inspired menu includes a breakfast chaya and refried beans burrito, Belizean fritters, pineapple jerk pork or chicken, and fish seasoned with Maya spices. The gardens are glorious; ask the staff to point out the tree where toucans sometimes pop their heads out in the morning. Walking up to Falling Leaves Lodge at sunset. Photo: Richard Hammond San Ignacio Resort Hotel, San Ignacio San Ignacio-born Escandar Bedran is the brains behind this locally owned hotel, now owned and managed by his children. Beginning his career by building bars and dance halls in San Ignacio including the Stork Club. In 1973, he set his sights on building San Ignacio Hotel, now one of the town’s best-known hotels. Its 27 luxury rooms and suites have rainforest, hillside or garden views, and furniture is made of Belizean hardwood and sustainable mahogany. The Running W Restaurant is worth trying for Belizean dishes such as Cracked Conch, plus the meat comes from the family’s ranch; and there’s pizza, salads and sushi too. You might catch live music at the classy Lobby Bar too. Hotel de la Fuente, Orange Walk Town Northern Belize has long been overlooked on the main tourist trail, but there’s so much to recommend it, not least Lamanai’s extensive Maya temples. Orange Walk Town offers is a lively snippet of everyday Belizean life, and the 25-room (including four suites) Hotel de la Fuente, centred around a courtyard, is a good base. Belizean-run since it opened in 2005, the (included) breakfast, also available to non-guests, is generous (and they do a budget backpackers’ breakfast) plus complimentary hot drinks all day for guests. Its sister hotel is the Gran Mestizo resort on the New River, 10 minutes via a free shuttle on request, where you can use the pool and eat lunch/dinner at the Maracas Bar & Grill. Hotel de la Fuente. Photo: Richard Hammond Lamanai Outpost, Orange Walk District, northern Belize Listen to the noises of the jungle as you drift to sleep under a thatched cabana at this renowned jungle lodge on the banks of the New River. In northern Belize and a boat ride away from Lamanai's spectacular Maya Archaeological Reserve, it's at the upper end of budgets, but long regarded as worth the money if you do go there. They often have good-value packages especially during shoulder season which can include meals, a trip to the Lamanai Maya temples, sunset cruise, nature walks and night safaris. The lodge is a dream for bird and wildlife lovers; look out for otters, kingfishers, and even crocs in the river. Blue Belize, Punta Gorda, Toledo district, southern Belize Punta Gorda is the kind of town you want to savour, if you have the time, so staying somewhere you can go back to and relax in is a bonus. The star of this independently owned guesthouse is the beautifully kept garden, where you can find a nook and read or bird-watch. The apartment-style rooms feel like a home from home – they’ve all got sea views, and either a balcony/veranda or a hammock on a private patio. The beds are super-comfortable here and breakfasts are delicious, with fresh bread, fruit and juice brought to your rooms. Blue Belize also has complimentary bicycles for guests and cycling in Punta Gorda is a nifty way to get around. For places offering local, seasonal, traditional food, places of interest and a range of outdoor adventure and cultural experiences, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Belize

As part of our Greentraveller's Guide to Belize , Meera Dattani tastes a range of hyper-local food provided by local communities. Miss Cecila Ack is sitting at the bus stop in the Belizean beach town of Placencia with a cool box on her lap. Inside are tamales, the Mesoamerican dish made from Masa, a traditional dough from nixtamalized (more on that later) corn, filled with meat, cheese or beans, then steamed and wrapped in banana or plantain leaves. “She comes here every week – she takes the Hokey Pokey water taxi from Mango Creek village to sell tamales and handmade corn tortillas in Placencia,” my food tour guide Dr Lyra Spang tells me. “It’s the real deal, from a traditional Maya recipe.” Meera enjoying her food tour with Dr Lyra Spang of Taste Belize. Photo: Richard Hammond Deliveroo, eat your heart out. This is my kind of food tour and Lyra Spang is no ordinary guide. She’s a thinker, innovator and author who’s long been involved in disseminating how Belize’s diverse cuisines have evolved out of a country that, as she says in her book Bite Yu Funga! Innovating Belizean Cuisine , was “initially created as a colonial logging camp". With a population of approximately 400,000, Belize is relatively small (it’s the least populated country in Central America), but there’s a wide mix of cultures including Mestizo (Spanish Indian), Kriol (African European), Maya, Garifuna (Black Caribbean), Chinese, East Indian and European – Punta Gorda in southern Toledo district is one of the best examples of this cultural diversity. Lyra set up Taste Belize in 2014 to celebrate the range and quality of local cuisine – she has a shop in Placencia selling 100% Belizean goods where I taste Belize-grown chocolate, and a food and cultural tours outfit. Given the inevitable mix of cultural influence on local food, Lyra is keen that visitors should keep an open mind over what is traditional food; “Who's saying, 'This or that is Belizean food’?” she questions. Belize-grown chocolates from Taste Belize's shop in Placencia. Photo: Richard Hammond The most interesting food is usually cooked in people’s homes, which is why Miss Cecila’s tamales (also known as bollos) are so good. We head to streetside restaurant Carmen’s Kitchen where we unwrap the tamales, and buy puffed, fried corn tortillas called ‘Salbutes’ and delicious pork tacos. The tamales are filled with recado-spiced (local spice blend) beans and meat, and the texture chewier as the dough isn’t pre-cooked. All of it begs for seconds. Tasting tamales, puffed, fried corn tortillas and pork tacos at Carmen's Kitchen. Photo: Richard Hammond At Miss Geneva’s Fine Foods, another Placencia roadside restaurant, we try Kriol rice and beans, an all-in-one dish, with meat or fish cooked in a sauce. It’s different to beans and rice (sometimes ‘rice and gravy’) where they’re separate, beans are saucier, and the meat/fish is often fried. Miss Geneva also makes her own coconut milk; a security guard who works nearby heads here around 5am after his night shift to grate it for her. We finish at Barefoot Beach Bar, set up by two Belizean sisters who’ve created a warm, welcoming vibe. One bartender has been there for 12 years, Lyra says. Their bitters from local herbs are a Barefoot specialty; woody, easy on the palate, and nicely paired with fried breadfruit and smoked fish dip. Later, I head to neighbouring Tipsy Tuna, another beach bar, also Belizean-owned and operated, where after a day of local food, I submit to their chicken wings special. The Belizean-owned Tipsy Tuna beach bar. Photo: Richard Hammond Hopkins village, north of Placencia, is considered the cultural centre of the Garifuna, descendants of an Afro-Indigenous people from St Vincent, exiled in the 18th century to Honduras before moving to Belize. The Garifuna Cultural Immersion Tour organised by Hopkins UnCut starts with a drumming session with the Lebeha drummers, followed by a cooking lesson with resident chef Kenima Williams. It's interactive and I (happily) sing for my supper. Kenima teaches me to grate coconut from the husk using a grater clamped to the table, before squeezing out the milk. I learn to make hudut, a coconut milk soup with onions, peppers, herbs, chillies and fish, served with mashed ripe plantain, which I squash down using a pole-sized pestle into a mortar on the ground. It’s delicious. These experiences show Belize’s story in a way that’s so engaging you don't realise you're also getting a history lesson. In northern Belize, near Orange Walk Town, I visit the Mennonite community of Indian Creek with my guide Eduardo Ruano. Cornelius and Anna Schmitt welcome us to their home and Cornelius takes us on a horse-and-buggy tour (no motorised vehicles here) of this community, his farmland, local church, and the store. It’s an insight into a culture often perceived as closed, but like any community of thousands of people, there’s a spectrum. Some Mennonites are stricter; some use electricity and drink alcohol; others don’t have electricity. It's a practical, outdoors life. Things are made, fixed, farmed, cooked from scratch. When we sit down to lunch to enjoy Anna’s feast of chicken schnitzel, picked vegetables, mashed potatoes and delicious salads, there’s a palpable sense of joy and satisfaction at the table. A visit to the visit the Mennonite community of Indian Creek. Photo: Richard Hammond Breaking bread has always been a way of connecting with people. About 40 miles north on the New River in northern Belize, upriver from Lamanai's Maya temple complex, tour guide Manuel Novelo enthusiastically welcomes me to his hometown of Orange Walk Town. Home to Mestizo, Kriol, Mennonite, and East/South Asian communities, it’s an industrious place, known as ‘Sugar City’ for its sugar production, and host of an annual TacoFest. Manuel shares its history from Maya settlement, Holpatin, to a colonial logging hub through to now. "I've lived here my whole life," he says. "My uncle lives over there, cousins here, my grandchildren over there," he gestures around us. Our morning tour ends at Chengs Tacos De Cochinita, effectively the kitchen and front yard of husband-and-wife team Cheng and Yanira, where we dive into homemade tacos, tortillas and juices on a shared table. Manuel knows everyone who rocks up to collect a delivery, including the town's mayor. “Although we're famous for tacos, the best ones are by the roadside, not the restaurants,” says Manuel. Orange Walk Town is known as 'Sugar City' for its sugar production. Photo: Richard Hammond Hyper-local is always a winner. On the outskirts of San Ignacio, the gateway town for western Belize, is the San Antonio Women’s Cooperative. A grassroots organisation, it was created by local Maya women. “We wanted to promote our culture and empower young girls,” Timotea Mesh, one of its founders, says. Here, elders speak in Maya, traditions are honoured, and medicinal plants are the first port-of-call. With Timotea, I learn more about the heart and soul of Maya food: Corn. She explains the nixtamalisation process used by the ancient Maya to make corn kernels less acidic, using limestone powder. Grinding kernels into a smooth wet dough is tough, then we flatten and shape them into round tortillas; it reminds me of making round chapatis (rotli) as a young South Asian girl - and never quite nailing it. I watch Timotea cook them on the hot griddle, the fire crackling below; hers rise perfectly, forming an airy pocket. Mine remain flat. Meera learns how to grind kernels into dough then shaping them into round tortillas. Photo: Richard Hammond After learning about Maya pottery techniques and visiting their gift shop for local souvenirs, I rejoin Timotea for lunch and tuck into one of the tastiest meals I’ve enjoyed in Belize with homemade tortillas, fried plantain with a sweet tamarind marinade, chaya (a type of spinach) and a garden-fresh salad. As I eat the last tortilla under the thatched hut, I think back to a conversation with Lyra Spang. “We need to make sure people get a chance to represent their own culture,” she’d told me. “There are dishes disappearing and only a few old women know how to make them. Done the right way, food tourism encourages people to hold onto their cultural skills.” For nearby places to stay, local attractions and a range of outdoor adventure activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Belize

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Belize , Meera Dattani sees how community, conservation and cultural preservation go hand-in-hand in this beautiful Central American country There’s a bird tower in Belize, in the middle of the Caribbean Sea where there’s a sight that even the least twitchy birdwatcher will be interested in. On Half Moon Caye (also known as Half Moon Caye Natural Monument) in Lighthouse Reef Atoll, the island’s famous frigate birds gather and when it’s mating season, which it was, the males puff out their throats so much that they form large red pouches. When they fly, it looks like they’re transporting emergency medical equipment. And it’s not just the frigates. Also resident here (for 10 months of the year) are the caye’s red-footed boobies, the reason this tiny island became a protected area. The distinctive large red pouch of a male frigate bird at Half Moon Caye. Photo: Richard Hammond Half Moon Caye is the first marine protected area in Central America, designated a bird sanctuary in 1924 to protect the habitat of the red-footed booby birds. The Belize Audubon Society, a bird and habitat protection organisation, co-manages Half Moon Caye, alongside six other protected areas in Belize including the birdwatching haven of Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary and the jaguar preserve of Cockscomb Basin. Half Moon Caye is more than the caye’s red-footed boobies and frigates though. Hundreds of hermit crabs scurry about the forest floor, in a Goldilocks-attempt to find the perfect shell and if you’ve a keen eye, you may spot iguanas, and if you’re lucky, hawksbill, green and loggerhead turtles in season too. The nature trail along this tiny, crescent-shaped island leads to a small, sunset-view beach, where the Caribbean unfolds in front of you as you ponder the meaning of life or frigate birds. Earlier, I’d barefoot-walked the Calabash Caye Nature Trail, an easy walk through the interior of Calabash Caye, a Turneffe Atoll island. I’m guided by Eldon August, a tourism conservation officer from Turneffe Atoll Sustainability Association, known as TASA, which works with marine protection organisations BlueWild EcoVentures and Blue Alliance to protect Turneffe and promote the ‘blue economy’. Eldon has been working for TASA for two years and is enthusiastic about his prospects in conservation. Meera and Eldon at the entrance to the Calabash Caye Nature Trail. Photo: Richard Hammond As we walk and talk, he tells me about the importance of the mangrove ecosystem for flood protection and providing a haven for juvenile species, to the seaweed farms offering alternative livelihoods to fishermen with its beauty and health benefits (‘mariculture’). I learn about the gumbo limbo tree - it’s called the ’tourist tree’ because of its peeling skin exterior (a timely reminder to re-apply sun cream) and that it’s an antidote to the sometimes-neighbouring poisonwood tree. Our walk leads us across the hammock bridge and to the trail’s bird tower. I don’t think I’d ever taken in such a sight. As I turn my head, I’m treated to a 360-degree view of miles of mangroves, broken up only by the blue hues of the Caribbean Sea. Seeing something with your own eyes reinforces what you’ve just learnt, and you realise just how important it is to protect it. Eldon explains to Meera about the importance of mangroves for flood protection. Photo: Richard Hammond Before snorkelling the Calabash Caye Snorkel Trail, we pay an underwater visit to the seaweed farm. That morning, I’d seen the seaweed at a later stage, laid out on drying racks until crunchy; down here, it’s a grid system of nets and poles, frequently checked by TASA. The snorkel trail itself is only around 300 metres long, but as any snorkeller or diver will tell you, time takes on new meaning underwater - before you know it, you’ve been drifting for an hour. A shoal of blue tang swims our way, and corals sway and shimmer below us. I realise we’ve barely seen anyone else during the day. “We’re about high-value, low-impact,” says Eldon. “We never have two groups at the same time. If, say Blackbird Resort has a group going to one dive spot, no-one else goes that day.” Snorkelling at the underwater seaweed farm, Calabash Caye. Photo: Richard Hammond Blackbird Caye Resort where I’m staying on Turneffe Atoll, has developed a close partnership with TASA. One evening, over Belikin beers, Panty Rippa cocktails and mini pizzas during the daily, convivial pre-dinner bar ritual, Eldon shares more about their work, looking after Belize's largest marine protected area of some 36,000 acres. Many fishermen wanted the atoll to be protected, he says, but because of tourism, it’s difficult to have off-limits areas. Instead, “Enforcement is the backbone of our organisation,” he tells us, with strict rules and high fines for illegal fishing. They have 16 conservation officers and three conservation outposts, and work two-week shifts with six days off. 100% of donations they receive support their wildlife conservation work and community initiatives. Eldon on the jetty at Calabash Caye. Photo: Richard Hammond Conservation goes beyond marine areas. On the mainland, one of the most visited national parks is Cockscombe Basin Wildlife Sanctuary, the world’s first jaguar preserve, stretching from the Maya Mountains to the Caribbean Sea. In 1986, Cockscombe was declared a nature reserve and thanks to conservation efforts, the sanctuary now has some of Belize’s best jungle treks, a lush habitat of towering ferns and palms, a healthy if elusive jaguar population, plenty of birdlife including keel-billed toucans and king vultures, and resident ocelots, tapir, monkeys and more. Co-managed by the Belize Audubon Society, the sanctuary also collaborates with the Maya Centre Village visitor centre and gift shop; the community receives 10% of park revenue. Righting past land ownership wrongs isn’t easy - when Maya residents were first re-located from Cockscomb, many were against it. At nearby Bocawina Mayflower National Park, there’s a different story where a foreign-owned adventure resort remained, while Indigenous communities had to leave the Cockscomb Basin region. My guide Dirk points out plantain and coconut farms on our drive to Bocawina. “When you see plantain in forest, it's secondary growth forest,” he tells us. “It's regenerating.” In fact, almost 40% of Belize’s land is protected in some way, partly thanks to co-management. Meera and Dirk at the entrance to Bocawina Mayflower National Park. Photo: Richard Hammond A keen birdwatcher (and member of Dangriga-based band, The Garifuna Collective), multi-talented Dirk is a knowledgeable guide. He spots an orange-billed sparrow, a ‘deep forest’ species, explains that the red ribbons mark a carbon data trail, and points out the cohune palm, the first tree to grow when a forest is cleared, outgrowing others. “It’s a ‘give-and-take-palm’,” he says. “It pricks you, but the sap inside is an antidote.” Obviously, I touch it. He looks down as much as up, and on the forest floor, we spot a train of leaf cutter ants, capable of carrying ten times their own body weight, transporting leaves in a high-level logistics operation. We hear the thunderous sound of howler monkeys in the distance, and after a straightforward but sweaty hike, I cool off in a waterfall pool. Meera cooling off in the waterfall pool in Bocawina Mayflower National Park. Photo: Richard Hammond In northern Belize, the majestic Maya temples of Lamanai, right on the New River, highlight another type of conservation, that of cultural heritage. My guide Eduardo Ruano has Maya heritage and comes from a family of former Guatemalan refugees fleeing civil war in the 1980s. He grew up in neighbouring Indian Church village, created in 1990 when communities were moved out of Lamanai. “Indian Church has guesthouses, restaurants, a women’s cooperative, Las Orquideas, and you can eat local Belizean dishes here,” Eduardo says. It’s not on enough itineraries with many tourists whisked to and from the temple complex. Eduardo explained how Lamanai is also a haven for wildlife. Photo: Richard Hammond Set deep in the jungle, Lamanai is also a wildlife haven, especially for birds. The howler monkeys are also out as we explore the Jaguar Temple and High Temple in the late afternoon. Revenue from tourism funds preservation, but grassroots community engagement is sometimes missing when it comes to big-ticket sights. Time and time again, you realise why community, conservation and cultural preservation go hand-in-hand and that this holistic approach is crucial, whether a marine reserve or an archaeological treasure. Meera and Eduardo at The High Temple at Lamanai. Photo: Richard Hammond

From Tuesday 14th January, passengers will be able to buy millions of train tickets at half the price as part of the government’s annual rail sale. Until Monday 20th January 2025, selected advance and off-peak fares will be on sale at up to 50% off for travel between 17th January and 31st March 2025. As part of this year’s rail sale, thousands of popular routes across almost all UK train operators, including Transport for Wales and ScotRail, will be offering discounted tickets with journeys spreading the length and breadth of Great Britain. Passengers in Liverpool could visit London for as little as £7, a journey from Preston to Edinburgh could be as cheap as £8.40 and a ticket from Nottingham to Manchester could cost less than a tenner. Following the success of last year’s sale – which saved passengers around £5.8 million in total – the government tasked the rail industry to deliver an even bigger sale to offer cheaper tickets for passengers and encourage more people to travel by train. Secretary of State, Heidi Alexander, said: "I’m launching the biggest ever rail sale so more passengers can get big discounts on train tickets to visit destinations across the country. "Whether you’re planning a getaway or wanting to visit friends or family, this sale offers huge reductions on all sorts of journeys. Make the most of this sale, get your tickets while you can!" [Tickets provided by Trainline, rail sale discounts available only from Tuesday 14th January 2025. Discounts vary, terms apply] The Cambrian Coast Line is one of the most scenic train routes in Britain. Photo: Arriva Trains Wales Example fares during the rail sale Journey Sale price Full price St Pancras to Whitstable £7.20 £11.30 Ashford to Ramsgate £2.60 £5.20 Newcastle to Carlisle £6.00 £12.00 Liverpool to London Euston £7.00 £14.00 Nottingham to Manchester £9.20 £18.50 Leeds to Sheffield £3.60 £7.20 London to Edinburgh £26.15 £62.50 Aberdeen to Edinburgh* £14.50 £29.00 Glasgow to Inverness* £14.10 £28.10 Preston to Edinburgh £8.40 £16.80 London to Newcastle £23.60 £52.10 *Journeys on ScotRail source: Department for Transport This year’s rail sale returns after more than 600,000 tickets were sold in last year’s sale, worth £5.1 million in ticket sales for the industry and resulted in an extra 440,000 journeys taken by train. This comes on the 200th anniversary of the first steam-powered passenger train with celebrations expected throughout the year as part of Railway 200. This will honour Britain’s heritage as the birthplace of the modern railway and recognise the role rail continues to play in forming critical infrastructure and boosting local economies throughout the country. Jacqueline Starr, Chief Executive of Rail Delivery Group, said: "This year, as we celebrate 200 years of railways in the UK, we’re reminded that rail travel is about much more than simply getting from A to B – it’s about bringing people, communities and opportunities together. "Over 2 centuries, rail has become a vital part of the UK, shaping the economy and lives of millions. "The year’s rail sale will offer over 2 million discounted advance fares starting on 14 January 2025, which is a great way to save on your travel and celebrate 200 years of railway connections." [Tickets provided by Trainline, rail sale discounts available only from Tuesday 14th January 2025. Discounts vary, terms apply]

Our writer Harriet O'Brien provides a few tips for how to have a green eco escape in Lille. Once the capital of medieval Flanders, Lille is a wonderful collision of cultures. This French city with a (very) strong Flemish accent offers a glorious range of architectural styles with tall gabled townhouses, atmospheric old convents, a 17th-century citadel built by the French military architect Vauban and some fine Art Nouveau and Art Deco flourishes. There’s a striking heritage of industrial buildings too. Lille thrived in the 19th century – and went into grimy decline during the 20th. And what’s most remarkable about the city today is how it has revived and reinvented itself – with much of its rejuvenation kickstarted by the arrival of high speed rail. Since the building of the sleek Lille-Europe train station in the early 1990s, Lille has become spruced up and reinvigorated. Meanwhile the residents of Lille - called Ch’tis after the local dialect – have become dab hands at devising new uses for historic buildings – medieval hospital to hotel; textile mill to arts centre and so on. La Grande Place, Lille. Photo: Lille Tourisme/Laurent Ghesquière What’s more, as the hub of the Nord Pas de Calais region, Lille has impressive transport links with about 60 bus routes serving the greater city area, two tram lines and one of the world’s longest automated metro systems. So it is easy to explore the outer reaches of this enterprising area. Beyond the core of Vieux Lille, in the suburbs of Roubaix, Faches-Thumesnil and more, a great green programme is currently underway, enhancing the existing natural spaces, creating more, adding footpaths and improving environmentally-related sights such as the recently revamped Open-Air Museum at Villeneuve d’Ascq. For an interactive map on Lille’s green spaces visit www.enm-lille.fr . Practicalities How to get there: see our guide to how to travel by train from London to Lille >> Getting around Lille: From Lille Europe station, it’s just a short walk to Lille’s main square and the city’s main shopping centre. Lille Europe has both métro and tram lines as well as a number of bus services, for more information, see www.transpole.fr. The city's public bike system is called V’Lille: you simply pay a deposit of €1.40 for a day’s use at any of the 100-plus V’Lille stations, and you can then take a bike for half an hour with no further cost. Thereafter you’ll be charged €1 per additional half hour. For more information, see www.vlille.fr . Cycling Parc Matisse. Photo: Lille Tourisme/Maxime Dufour photographies Where to stay L’Hermitage Gantois: Founded as a hospital in 1462, this landmark building continued to be a working hospice right up until the mid 1990s. The makeover to hotel has been deft achieved. Thanks to 10-year period of clever and painstaking conversion - during which materials were sensitively sourced - it retains many historic features. There’s a Gothic gable here, a stained-glass window there, and even a small museum area displaying antique medical instruments. The 72 bedrooms are all very different, having been individually furnished according to size and shape. The public spaces exhibit the works of local, regional artists. The restaurant serves locally sourced food. 224 rue de Paris (+33 (0)3 20 85 30 30; www.hotelhermitagegantois.com ). La Villa 30: Support a local enterprise in the heart of town. La Villa 30 is a welcoming chambres d’hotes set over five floors of a tall 1930s house that is within walking distance of the town’s cobbled pedestrian sector. The four bedrooms are spacious and furnished in quiet colours. Meanwhile your hosts, the Dufrenne family, are a mine of information and enthusiasm about Lille. 24 rue du Plat (+33 (0)3 66 73 61 30; www.lavilla30.fr ). B&B Hotel Lille Centre Grand Palais: This comfortable budget hotel is very conveniently situated in a quiet residential neighbourhood close to the Lille-Europe station. The 127 rooms are slightly small, but size is mitigated by keen pricing and useful add-ons such as free wifi. The hotel has recently earned Clef Verte accreditation for its measures in conserving energy and water. Rue Berthe Morisot (+33 (0)8 92 70 22 06; www.hotel-bb.com ). Comfort Hotel Lille-Tourcoing: About 8km from the centre of Lille, this 51-room hotel seems on the face of it a well-priced if slightly bland option to staying in town. Yet in fact it is a revolutionary place that has been turning heads in the hotel industry. Recent refurbishment by the building’s owners, Michael and Marilyn Galerne, has turned the hotel into a model of sustainability, from special LED lighting to responsibly sourced bed linen. There’s even a kitchen garden here. Rue Becquerel, Bondues (+33 (0)3 20 36 01 96; www.comfortinn.com ). Hotel du Croise, Marcq en Baroeul: This quiet, comfy little two-star hotel is set near the famous racecourse of Marcq en Baroeul and close to trams that will take you 4km into the heart of Lille. The 11 rooms here are simply and neatly furnished, and each offers its own small terrace. The hotel has been awarded Clef Verte accreditation for its environmental policies. 191 rue de la Rianderie, Marcq en Baroeul (+33 (0)3 20 72 25 63; www.hotelcroise.com ). Where to eat 2 Sous de Table: This attractive little brasserie on one of Lille’s main restaurant streets opened last spring 2011. From artful salads to wonderfully textured aubergine and tomato tarts, the menu features organic, seasonal, and locally sourced ingredients – and much care has been taken to seek out the best producers. There’s a pleasing open-mindedness, too: dishes are offered for vegetarians, vegans, carnivores and even those on gluten-free regimes. Expect to pay around €22 for two courses. 56 rue de Gand (+33 (0)3 62 57 25; www.2sousdetable.com ). Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. Café Citoyen: Since it opened in September 2005, the small, bustling Café Citoyen has become a Lille institution and a visit here reveals a great deal about the ethical and political dimensions of the city. This small outfit near the Palais des Beaux Arts is run as a cooperative offering Fair Trade or organic food and drink and promoting debate on environmental and social issues. So order a lunchtime salad and an organic, microbrewed beer and join the discussion, or come in the evening for a range of talks and lively little concerts. 7 place du Vieux Marche aux Chevaux (+33 (0)3 20 13 73; www.cafecitoyen.org ) Open Monday to Friday noon to midnight (until 10pm on Monday) and Saturday 2-8pm. La Source : A trailblazer when it opened in 1979, this well-regarded organic deli and restaurant is a short walk from the Euralille shopping complex and Lille-Europe station. On the ground floor is a spacious shop selling everything from fresh fruit and veg to organic wines and pastries. You dine upstairs where the menu changes according to what’s in the market, with vegetarian dishes priced around €10 and fish of the day about €12. 13 rue du Plat (+33 (0)3 20 57 53 07; www.denislasource.com ). Open Monday to Thursday 8.30am-7pm; Friday 8.30am-9pm; Saturday 8.30am-7pm. O Fil des Saisons: It is well worth striking west of Vieux Lille to find this unassuming looking restaurant near the leafy reaches of Vauban’s citadel and the city’s Bois de Boulogne. As the name implies, at O Fils des Saisons they cook only the very freshest ingredients – which come straight from the market or from local farms. The daily-changing menu might include braised rabbit with endive and potato rissoles or salmon baked with garlic and served with leek and potato gratin. Expect to pay around €16 for two courses. 224 rue Colbert (+33 (0)3 20 57 41 19; www.ofildessaisons.com ). Open Monday to Friday for lunch, and Thursday and Friday for dinner. De Rode Koe: Organic farmer Rik Delhaye from Westouter across the border in Flemish Belgium is the force behind this slick café-resto in the heart of Lille. De Rode Koe (The Red Cow) is an organic fast-food operation offering takeaway and eat-in dishes. Expect to pay between €6 and €16 for soups, pies, lusciously fresh salads and more. 71 rue de la Monnaie (+33 (0)3 28 04 96 68; www.derodekoe.fr ). Open for lunch Monday to Saturday. Where to visit Vieux Lille: Winding out from the city’s two striking principal squares - Place du Theatre and Place General de Gaulle - the lanes of old Lille are ideal for pottering and browsing. Start at Lille’s historic stock market, the Baroque Vieille Bourse, complete with opulent carvings and surrounded by bookstalls and galleries (come in the afternoon and you’ll also take in the daily antiques market here). Then wander northwards along narrow streets lined with enticing stores. On rue de la Clef you’ll find Atelier de la Sorciere Verte (number 19), a wonderful repository of paper – recycled, handmade and shaped into cards, umbrellas, books, lampshades and more. On rue du Cure Saint-Etienne, Fromagerie Philippe-Olivier (number 3) presents a display of about 300 cheeses – with an emphasis on those made locally. On rue des Vieux Murs, l’Abbaye des Saveurs (number 13) is a haven of the region’s beers and foods. Maps of Lille are available from the Tourist Office, Palais Rihour, place Rihour (+33 (0)3 59 57 94 00; www.lilletourism.com ). Musee d’Histoire Naturelle et de Geologie: This museum exudes old-time grandeur. Whale skeletons hang from the wrought-iron rafters of the lofty main hall; beneath them there’s a terrific array of creatures collected in the 19th century and reflecting the enormous enthusiasm of the founding fathers of this establishment. The array of birds is especially striking. Ironically some of these are now extinct (notably the dodo) – but the museum doesn’t shy away from such issues and its changing exhibitions focus on topics such as biodiversity and conservation. 19 rue de Bruxelles (+33 (0)3 28 55 30 80; www.mairie-lille.fr ). Open 9am-noon; 2-5pm, and on Sundays 10-5pm (closed Tuesday and Saturday). Adults €3; children €2; under-12s go free. Market values: Head south of the centre to the traditionally working-class district of Wazemmes where one of France’s biggest and most vibrant markets takes place at place de la Nouvelle Aventure. The Sunday market is the most colourful but on any day of the week except Monday you’ll find stallholders offering a wide choice of local cheese, charcuterie, bread and. While you’re in the area, stroll on from the market down rue Leon Gambetta and along to Maison Folie de Wazemmes, an old textile mill refurbished as an arts centre - complete with a Turkish-style hammam. Maison Folie de Wazemmes arts centre, 70 rue des Sarrazines (+33 (0)3 20 78 20 23; www.mfwazemmes.mairie-lille.fr ); Zein hammam (+33 (0)3 20 14 34 34; www.wazemmes.zeinorientalspa.fr ). Recycled swimming pool: Take the metro out to Gare Jean Lebas in the suburb of Roubaix – growing ever more green thanks to the ongoing parks project of the Lille Metropole council. A short walk west of the station you’ll find an Art Deco wonder: a swimming pool reconfigured into a stunning museum. Completed in 1932, this was once the playground the textile workers of the Lille area. Today it houses the Musee d’Art et d’Industrie. The pool is now lined by sculptures while around it the former changing rooms display textiles and other applied arts. Musee d’Art et d’Industrie, 23 rue de l’Esperanc, Roubaix (+33 (0)3 20 69 23 60; www.roubaix-lapiscine.com ). Weekends open afternoons only, closed Monday. Adults €7; children €4.50. Open-air museum: There’s a great celebration of traditional rural life at this bucolic museum set in the countryside a few kilometres to the east of Lille. Twenty or so old country houses, once at risk, have been dismantled and rebuilt here, preserving and displaying a variety of vernacular styles from the 17th to the 19th centuries. Their vegetable plots, herb gardens, orchards and more have also been recreated. And there’s a section, too, for domestic animals from horses to donkeys and ducks. From the centre of Lille the museum is accessible by metro to Pont de Bois or by bus 43 – get off at the Massena stop. In each case there’s about a 10-minute walk on to the site. 143 rue Colbert, Villeneuve d’Ascq (+33 (0)3 20 63 11 25; www.museedepleinair-asso.org ). Open spring to mid-autumn, Wednesday-Sunday (2012: 7 April-7 November). Adults €4, children €2. Boat on the Canal. Photo: Lille Tourisme/Maxime Dufour photographies What to do Take a ride They’re fun, they look cool yet cute, and they’re eco-friendly: Lille’s electric trishaw-taxis will take you on guided tours of the city. The driver picks you and up to two others up at the railway station or the tourist office and offers spirited commentary on the history and politics of Lille – as well as tips on where to eat and where to shop. Cyclo Ville (+33 (0)6 24 16 08 18; www.cycloville.com ). Guided tours from €19 per hour. Take a glide: Hire a Segway and roll your way gently around town. Complete with suggested routes around the main sights of Lille, these two-wheeled electric machines are available from Station Oxygene at Champ de Mars. Transpole (+33 (0)3 20 40 40 40; www.transpole.fr ). Segways are available Monday to Saturday, €4 for half an hour, €15 for half a day. Look and listen: Take a guided walking tour of Lille - at your own pace. Free audio tours in English (or French) are available to download on to I-pods, MP3s or mobile phones from Zevisit’s website www.zevisit.com – or via the tourist office website www.lilletourism.com . These tours will take you around the seven highlights of the old town – the two main squares, the glorious Hospice Comtesse, the Cathedral of Notre Dame de la Treille and so on. Eat out: On a sunny day buy organic picnic ingredients from La Source deli (at 13 rue du Plat) then stroll through town to Quai du Wault - off the Deule canal which runs through the northern part of town. Lined with tall Flemish-style houses, the quai has fairly recently been revamped is now a place of much charm. Jardin Vauban lies adjacent and makes an ideal destination for an outdoor lunch. Created in 1863, the garden is beautifully laid out and attracts a happy stream of local residents – so it’s an excellent spot for people watching, too. Written by Harriet O'Brien == [Photo credits. Main photos: Lille Tourisme/Laurent Ghesquière; Eurostar. Small photos, left to right: Hermitage Gantois bar; Lille Tourisme; Lille Tourisme/Alain Leprince M.A.I.A.D Roubaix; © Maxime Dufour photographie. Train photo: © Eurostar. Cycling photo: © Maxime Dufour photographie]

Green Traveller's guide to the two main overnight sleeper rail services in the UK Travelling overnight on a train is a great way to travel long distances without having to stay in a hotel en route. There are two main overnight services in the UK: 1. The Caledonian Sleeper between London and Scotland 2. The Night Riviera between London and Cornwall Photo: Wix Media Caledonian Sleeper between London and Scotland The Caledonian Sleeper stops off a several Scottish railway stations and is actually the collective name for several overnight services from London Euston to Scotland – The Lowlander travels direct to Glasgow and Edinburgh (the train splits in the early hours of the morning, taking passengers to Edinburgh Waverley or Glasgow Central), whereas The Highlander travels further, connecting London with popular destinations like Aberdeen, Inverness, Aviemore, and Fort William. You can also board the train for both services from Watford Junction, Carlisle, Crewe and Preston. It’s a brilliant way to travel up from England to the mountainous fresh and wild of Scotland, and vice-versa. The Caledonian Sleeper is operated by Serco on behalf of Transport Scotland. It runs every night, except Saturday night . One of my favourite trips by Caledonian Sleeper is get off at Corrour station (4 stops before Fort William) and walk a mile to the wonderful off-grid Loch Ossian hostel on the northern edge of Rannoch Moor (pictured below). Another is to continue further up to Fort William and catch the connecting train to Mallaig from where you take a ferry over to the beautiful Knoydart Peninsula – a fantastic place for wild camping and walking - and home to The Old Forge pub , the most remote pub on mainland Britain. See my guide to booking sleeper tickets with TheTrainline Loch Ossian Hostel is a short walk from Corrour Station on the sleeper route. Photo: Scottish Hostelling The Night Riviera between London and Cornwall The Night Riviera service runs six days a week from London Paddington Railway Station to Penzance Railway Station at the far western tip of Cornwall: it takes just over 8 hours (8 hrs 5mins) on weekday services, and just under 9 hours (8 hrs 59mins) on Sundays. The Night Riviera calls overnight at Plymouth, Truro, and St Erth en route to its final stop at Penzance. There is a range of options on board, from standard seats to double-berth sleepers. Prices range from £25.50 to £135 depending on the type of accommodation and when you book. [NB. Due to engineering work, the Night Riviera service isn't running between Monday and Thursdays from 24th January – 17th March 2022. The normal timetable is due to resume from Monday 21st March 2022.] One of the great things about the Night Riviera service is that you can use it to connect with the ferry service from Penzance to the Isles of Scilly . It’s just a 10-minute walk from Penzance railway station to the check-in at Penzance Harbour for the Scillonian ferry departure to Hugh Town on St Mary’s; just enough time to grab yourself a pasty and set off for one of the best flight-free adventures in the country. See below for my guide to booking sleeper tickets with TheTrainline Bryher Cliff Beach on the Isles of Scilly. Photo: Roger Broughton/Visit Isles of Scilly Booking sleeper trains through TheTrainline Booking a sleeper train in the UK require a bit more work than a usual train ticket. Here's a step-by-step guide to booking the ticket through the website of TheTrainline train ticketing agency: Go to Advanced Search Journey Planner Enter where you're travelling to and from, for instance, London to Penzance. Important: make sure you select a departure time in the evening , preferably after 20:00 (this will filter out the day-time services from the results) Sleeper services have 'sleeper' written underneath the number of changes on the journey. The cheapest (seated) fares are shown first, by default. To see the full list of accommodation options available, click on 'View all single tickets' below the price matrix. Select your desired berth and check out. And away you go!

Raising a glass with Mark Smith in the Eurostar lounge. His website has long been the go-to place for information about rail travel worldwide. Photo: Richard Hammond I recently caught up with train expert Mark Smith who runs The Main in Seat 61 website, and we got talking about the renaissance of rail and how the long term future is looking bright for overland travel in Europe, especially given the recent liberalisation of the European rail network and the resurgence of new services, such as the European Sleeper services from Brussels to Prague via Amsterdam and Berlin, and from Brussels to Venice via Cologne and Innsbruck. However, Mark lamented that some of the great train journeys of yesteryear were no longer available. So I asked him about his favourite routes that he wished were still running and below is what he said. It's a look back at great train journeys that no longer exist, but could it also be a glimpse of the future? The Paris-Madrid 'trainhotel' Every night from 1980 until 2013, this little articulated sleeper train left Paris around 20:00 and arrived in Madrid around 09:00.  With an easy connection by high-speed train from London, Amsterdam, Brussels or Cologne to Paris, and onward high-speed trains from Madrid to Cordoba, Seville or Malaga this wonderful hotel-on-rails linked much of northern Europe with the Spanish capital and Southern Spain. I used to love having dinner with wine in the restaurant then returning to my compartment for a good night's sleep, with views of the walled city of Avila over breakfast next morning.  Today, you travel by high-speed train throughout, with an overnight stop necessary in Barcelona.  Ironically, high-speed trains are slower! The Paris-Italy sleepers Not so long ago, a fleet of sleeper trains left Paris every night, the Palatino for Rome, the Rlalto/Galilei for Venice and Florence, Stendahl for Turin and Milan and Napoli Express for Genoa, Pisa, Rome & Naples. Now there are none. Fast trains link Paris with Milan, but they take 7h and an overnight stop is now needed in Paris or Milan when travelling to central Italy. The Newcastle-Norway-Sweden ferry There used to be two excellent ferry companies competing across the North Sea to Norway, and DFDS's ferry extended to Gothenburg in Sweden.  Comfy en suite cabins, restaurants, bars, cinema, open deck, a 1-night crossing direct from the UK to Scandinavia. Two companies became one, then in 2008, none.  Incredibly, there are now no passenger ferries between the UK and anywhere in Denmark, Norway or Sweden. It's a long way round by train through Brussels, Hamburg and Copenhagen, especially if you live north of London - when it's just 1560 miles across the North Sea!  There seems to be no sign of any ferry resuming The Cologne-Copenhagen sleeper In the absence of a ferry, the Amsterdam/Cologne-Copenhagen sleeper provided a time-effective link to Scandinavia, with connections by high-speed train from London, Paris & Brussels to Cologne, and from Copenhagen to Stockholm and Gothenburg next morning. Today, the journey must be done by daytime trains, with an overnight stop in Hamburg if you're trying to get from London or Paris to Copenhagen or Stockholm. Again, fast trains are slower than a sleeper!  However, a Hamburg-Berlin sleeper has now resumed thanks to the Swedish government, so reaching Sweden is now easier. The Hellas Express, Munich-Zagreb-Belgrade-Thessaloniki-Athens A long-gone train, this, which I used to reach Athens in 1984, 1989 and (en route to Egypt by train and ferry) 1990.  You now need to change in Zagreb, in Belgrade and in Thessaloniki, and the Belgrade-Thessaloniki section has become summer-only with no trains at all off-season. It was an epic journey across the Balkans, with seats, couchettes and a Yugoslavian sleeping-car - no restaurant or catering car, on my first trip to Greece in '84 I got most of the way on two packets of chocolate digestives. Incredibly, it was one of two daily Munich-Athens trains, with a third international train to Greece running Venice-Belgrade-Athens. Popular with interRailers and migrant workers, it now seems as much part of ancient history as sailing to India by P&O liner. But I'd love to see it back! Mark Smith's website is the go-to place for information on train travel worldwide: seat61.com Rail travel in Europe is undergoing a renaissance given the recent open access liberalisation of the network. Wix Media == This article was first published in 2020 when I chatted with Mark at the Eurostar terminal in St Pancras and has been updated on Saturday 15 February 2025 following a zoom chat I had with Mark. His initial list included lamenting the demise of the Paris-Munich/Berlin/Hamburg sleeper , which has now been restored :)

If you're not used to Paris, transferring train stations may seem daunting but in practice the connections are fairly seamless - some involve a simple change of platform within the station, while those that are require a change of station are well connected by the city's metro system (which is very similar to the London underground) or fast overground rail network RER - 'Regional Express Network'. In this guide, we've tried to show how easy it is, plus we've included a few tips on places to have lunch and a few nearby hotels, should you wish to stopover before the onward connection. There's also information for the return journey - and don't forget - when you take the return Eurostar back to London, you should factor in the compulsory check-in time in addition to the transfer time. For connections from London, see the Map of Eurostar's Routes The connections between the major railway stations are fairly seamless. Photo: Wix Media Please note: The transfer times given here are the minimum amount of time we recommend you should allow between the scheduled arrival of your Eurostar in Paris and the scheduled departure time of your connecting train from Paris. Photo: Wix Media Eurostar Connections in Paris The Eurostar train arrives from London St Pancras at Gare du Nord, which is in the 10th arrondissement (district) of Paris near the Canal St. Martin and the historic Place de la République, which has many bars, restaurants and cafés. Gare du Nord has many connections to Northern France and onwards by Thalys trains to Belgium, Germany and the Netherlands. Click here for a map of the Paris Metro . Tip for Eurostar:  You can buy a Navigo Easy card (the new, prepaid Paris travel card to use instead of the old individual paper Paris Metro tickets) to use on the Paris metro at the bar buffet on board Eurostar – it will save you time on arrival at Gare du Nord where the queues at the staffed counters can be long. Click on the links below to read the guides: Gare du Nord to Gare de l’Est Gare du Nord to Gare de Lyon Gare du Nord to Gare d’Austerlitz Gare du Nord to Gare Montparnasse Gare du Nord to Gare de Bercy Gare du Nord to Gare Saint Lazare Gare du Nord to Gare de l’Est For travelling to: Basel, Strasbourg, Reims, Zurich, the ICE train to Frankfurt and the City Night Line sleeper train 'Perseus' to Berlin and the City Night Line sleeper train 'Cassiopeia' to Stuttgart and Munich. On foot: exit Gare du Nord, turn left then at the main intersection turn right (slightly downhill) along Rue du Fauberg Saint-Denis for about 400m then left along Rue de Chabrol to Gare de l'Est. It's about a 10-minute walk, but if you've got alot of luggage, allow for longer. We recommend you allow at least 25 minutes for the transfer. It's worth getting to Gare de L'Est in good time as there's a lovely cafe/restaurant just inside the station that serves decent coffee. By metro: it's just one stop on the metro line - from the Eurostar platform, turn left, walk down the stairs and follow the signs for Metro line M4 to Gare de l'Est (which is signposted 'direction Porte d'Orléans'). The Return Journey: Turn right at the end of the platform, walk along the concourse and exit Gare de l'Est via the side entrance. Turn right, climb the long set of stairs and turn left onto Rue de Dunkerque. Gare du Nord will be straight ahead. Alternatively, follow the signs for Metro Line M4 (which is signposted 'direction Porte de Clignancourt). Transfer time: Allow 25 minutes. Don't forget the 90 minute check-in for Eurostar. Where to stay near Gare du Nord/Gare de l'Est: these hotels close to Gare de Nord get good reviews Gare du Nord to Gare de Lyon For onward travel to Grenoble, Nice, Lyon, Chambery, Avignon, Marseille, Perpignan, Geneva, Lausanne, the high-speed TGV train to Barcelona and the high speed Artesia TGV to Turin and Milan. From the Eurostar platform, turn left, walk down the stairs and follow the signs for  RER line D  (which will be signposted 'direction' 'Melun', 'Malesherbes' or 'Corbeil Essonnes').  It's just 2 stops from Gare du Nord to Gare de Lyon and takes a little over 10 minutes (plus there's a short 5 minute walk to the connecting TGV departure platforms), but we recommend you leave at least 50 minutes for the entire transfer. The magnificent Train Bleu Restaurant at Gare de Lyon. Photo: Richard Hammond The Return Journey (Gare de Lyon to Gare du Nord): Follow the signs for RER line D (which will be signposted 'direction Orry la Ville' - usually platforms 2 & 4). Take the line two stops direct to Gare du Nord.Transfer time: Allow 50 minutes. Don't forget, when you take the return Eurostar back to London, you should factor in the compulsory 90-minute check-in time in addition to the transfer time. Where to eat near to Gare de Lyon: The magnificent interior of the Le Train Bleu in the heart of Gare de Lyon station. Surely it's the best station restaurant in Europe. Where to stay near to Gare de Lyon: These hotels close to Gare de Lyon get good reviews. Gare du Nord to Gare d’Austerlitz For travelling to: Cahors, Rodez, Montauban, St Gervais, Chamonix, Carcassonne, on the Elipsos train hotel 'Francisco de Goya' to Madrid and the Elipsos trainhotel 'Joan Miro' to Barcelona. From the Eurostar platform, turn left, walk down the stairs and follow the signs for Metro line M5 to Gare d'Austerlitz (which is signposted 'direction Place d'Italie'). It's 9 stops from Gare du Nord to Gare d'Austerlitz and takes 20-30 minutes, but we recommend you leave at least 50 minutes for the entire transfer. The Return Journey (Gare d’Austerlitz to Gare du Nord): Follow the signs for Metro line M5 to Gare du Nord (which will be signposted 'direction Bobigny Pablo Picasso). At this station, the Metro Line M5 is overground, opposite the main station entrance. The metro will cross the Seine before heading underground for the rest of the journey.Transfer time: Allow 50 minutes. Don't forget, when you take the return Eurostar back to London, you should factor in the compulsory 90-minute check-in time in addition to the transfer time. Where to stay near to Gare de Lyon:  These hotels close to Gare d'Austerlitz get good reviews Gare du Nord to Gare Montparnasse: For travelling to Agen, Biarritz, Bayonne, Bordeaux, Nantes, Pau, Toulouse. From the Eurostar platform, turn left, walk down the stairs and follow the signs for Metro line M4 to Montparnasse Bienvenue (which is signposted 'direction Porte d'Orléans'). It's 14 stops from Gare du Nord to Montparnasse and takes 25-35 minutes, but we recommend you leave at least 50 minutes for the entire transfer time. The Return Journey (Gare Montparnasse to Gare du Nord): Take the Metro line M4 to Gare du Nord (which will be signposted 'direction Porte de Clignancourt'). Transfer time: Allow 50 minutes. Don't forget, when you take the return Eurostar back to London, you should factor in the compulsory 90-minute check-in time in addition to the transfer time. Where to stay near to Gare Montparnasse: These hotels close to Gare Montparnasse get good reviews. Signage for the walk between Gare de Lyon and Gare de Bercy. Photo: Richard Hammond Gare du Nord to Gare de Bercy For travelling to Auxerre, Aurillac, Avalon, Clermont Ferrand, Sens, and the Artesia sleeper train, 'Palatino' to  Bologna, Florence, Rome and Naples or the Artesia sleeper train 'Stendhal' to Milan or Venice. From the Eurostar platform, turn left, walk down the stairs and follow the signs for RER Line D (which will be signposted 'direction' 'Melun', 'Malesherbes' or 'Corbeil Essonnes'). Take RER Line D two stops to Gare de Lyon. Take Metro line 14 a single stop from Gare de Leon to Bercy (which will be signposted ‘M14 direction Olympiades’)> Alternatively, you can walk from Gare de Lyon. Exit the station and walk onto the forecourt, turn left into the rue de Bercy, running alongside the station. Gare de Bercy is 700-800m away. The Return Journey (Gare de Bercy to Gare du Nord): exit the station and walk onto the forecourt, down the steps and across the road straight ahead of you. The Metro station will be just around the corner. Take Metro line 14 one stop to Gare de Lyon. From here, take RER line D two stops to Gare du Nord (which will be signposted 'direction Orry la Ville'). Transfer time: Allow 50 minutes. Don't forget, when you take the return Eurostar back to London, you should factor in the compulsory 90-minute check-in time in addition to the transfer time. Where to stay near Gare de Bercy: These hotels near Gare de Bercy get good reviews. Gare du Nord to Gare Saint Lazare: For travelling to Vernon, Cherbourg, Dieppe, Lisieux. From the Eurostar platform, turn left, walk down the stairs and follow signs for RER Line E (which will be signposted ‘Haussmann Saint Lazare’) It’s one stop from Gare du Nord to Gare Saint Lazare. The Return Journey: Follow signs for RER line E (which will be signposted 'direction Tournan & Chelles Gournay'). Take the line 1 stop to Magenta, which is connected to Gare du Nord. Transfer time: Allow 25 minutes. Don't forget, when you take the return Eurostar back to London, you should factor in the compulsory 90-minute check-in time in addition to the transfer time. Where to stay near Gare Saint Lazare: These hotels near Gare Saint Lazare get good reviews Brussels In Brussels Midi (‘Zuid’) station, Eurostar coaches 11 to 16 provide the quickest route to access the platforms for onward journeys. From the Quick Connections exit, turn left out of the double doors and look for your connecting train on the departure boards. High speed trains to various destinations (including Amsterdam and Cologne), normally depart from platforms 3-6, though do check the departure boards to be sure. For ‘Any Belgian Station’ including Bruges and Ghent, remember to look out for the terminating station on the departure boards. For Bruges, this tends to be either Ostend of Knokke/Blankenberge. For Ghent it can be Ostend, Knokke/Blankenberge or De Panne. Lille For connections to destinations in France, go upstairs from the platform to the main station where the departure board gives the train times and platform number for your onward journey. Trains are normally displayed on the departure board about 15 minutes before departure.

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Spain , Richard Hammond describes how Spain is embracing the rail renaissance Looking out of the panoramic window from a seat in the train’s bar-restaurant, I could see vineyards heavy with fruit, row upon row of olive groves, wildflower meadows and attractive rural villages. I picked up my book, sipped from a glass of Rioja, and savoured the journey. Arriving in Madrid in the early evening, it had been a joy to travel all the way to Spain from the UK by train. After taking the Eurostar from London the previous evening to overnight in Paris, I'd travelled overland to the Spanish capital in a day: Breakfast in Paris, lunch in Barcelona, dinner in Madrid. Welcome to the renaissance of rail. High-speed AVE train from Madrid Puerta de Atocha bound for Figueres. Photo: David Barrero Labari/iStock Thanks to the ‘open access’ liberalisation of the European rail network, increased competition among rail operators has led to improved services and reduced costs of tickets. Nowhere is this more apparent than on the high-speed line between Barcelona and Madrid, which is now served by four operators: two standard ‘full-service’ operators AVE (operated by Spanish Railways, Renfe), which runs 10 or departures a day, and Iryo (a joint venture of Trenitalia & Air Nostrum using Italian-designed Frecciarossa trains) – both have a café-bar and first class leather seats with a meal and wine included; and two low-cost operators OUIGO (a subsidy of French Railways, SNCF), which runs about 5 departures a day on double-decker TGV trains, and Avlo (a subsidiary of Spanish Railways, Renfe), which runs about 3 departures a day. Prices for the two and a half hour 386 mile journey can be from as little as €7 from Avlo (there are strict baggage limits, passengers have to pay an extra €10 for a suitcase or backpack). The success of these services has led to increased competition on other high-speed lines in Spain, for instance, OUIGO has since expanded to include Madrid-Valencia in 2022 and Madrid-Alicante in 2023. Tickets for the Barcelona to Madrid train can be as little as €7 one way. Photo: Richard Hammond These operators are also capitalising on Spain’s extensive high-speed rail network – with over 3,400km of track, it’s the longest network of high-speed lines in Europe (and second only to China in the world), with AVE trains (Alta Velocidad Española) linking all the major cities, including Barcelona, Granada, Madrid, Murcia, Malaga, Seville, Valencia and Zaragoza, as well as connecting with France's high-speed network connecting Lyon and Marseille with Barcelona, via Avignon, Montpellier, Perpignan, and Girona. One of the longest high-speed connections in Europe is between Barcelona and Malaga on the south coast of Spain, travelling via Tarragona, Lleida, Zaragoza, Madrid, and Córdoba. One of the most recent high-speed installations was between Puebla de Sanabria and Ourense in Galicia, following 16 years of construction, which means it's now possible to take high-speed trains all the way from Barcelona to Ourense. There are also high-speed connections from Madrid to the northern town of León, to Alicante and Valencia (on the Mediterranean coast), south to Murcia, and Toledo (just south of the Spanish capital) and to Seville (via Córdoba). Faster trains are being introduced to these networks to make the most of the new track. When a new high-speed line opened in 2023 between Madrid and Oviedo, it cut travel time between the Spanish capital and Asturias by over an hour, and then when Renfe introduced faster Talgo AVRIL trains on the route earlier this year, the journey has been cut down further, to 2 hours 43 minutes, with at least three trains per day. The high-speed train runs from Madrid to Pola de Lena, stopping at Segovia, Valladolid, Palencia and León and then to Mieres, Oviedo, terminating at Gijón. Green Traveller's video of Spain (below) aims to showcase the best of the country’s year-round low impact experiences, encouraging visitors to use the country's extensive rail network and travel in a slower more meaningful way, stay longer and make the most of locally run adventure activities : Video filmed and produced by Richard Hammond with contributions from Alex Cantouris, Nigel Camp and Christopher Willan While high-speed rail is the quickest way to travel by train, there are plenty of slower services that can take you long distance to some of the most beautiful parts of the country, such as Badajoz in the west, Huelva in the southwest, and Cadiz, Algeciras and Almeria in the south – Renfe has produced a handy map of all the high-speed and long distance train lines in Spain . There are also a few slower train services, such as the metre-gauge FEVE network, which has recently been absorbed into Renfe, serves the coast of northern Spain (from Bilbao to Ferrol via Santander, Oviedo and Gijón). Luggage In general on trains in Spain, you can carry up to 3 pieces of hand luggage, provided that the sum of the three does not exceed 25kg or 290cm. The maximum dimensions allowed per piece of luggage are 85x55x35cm (height-width-depth). If you are travelling on the AVE International high-speed trains between France and Spain, the same terms and conditions apply to hand luggage, but luggage tagging is mandatory . You are free to carry on bikes so long as they are folded inside a carrying case or bag whose total dimensions do not exceed 180cm. NB. These conditions are for regular Renfe services, do bear in mind that the luggage policy is stricter on Avlo trains, see Avlo's full terms and conditions . Pet friendly travel Passengers are eligible to take pets, such as dogs, cats, guinea pigs and rabbits on the AVE (high-speed) lines both within Spain and between Spain and France, as well as the 'Larga Distancia' (Long Distance) trains so long as they weigh not more than 10kg, can be taken in a carrier, and the ticket for the adult allows for pet travel. There is also the option to take a dog without a carrier on those trains that have allocated seats for dogs (for those that weigh up to 40kg) on select AVE high-speed trains on the routes Madrid-Barcelona, Madrid-Malaga, Madrid-Alicante, Madrid-Valencia, Madrid-Zaragoza and Madrid-Granada. You will need to arrive 40 minutes in advance at the Renfe Service Centre of the station to submit a 'declaration of responsibility', as well as the pet's vaccination card and insurance policy. For full conditions, see renfe.com/es/en/travel/informacion-util/pets Assistance services Adif Acerca is a free assistance service for people with disabilities or reduced mobility, managed by Adif (Administrator of Rail Infrastructures). It's a specialist service providing guidance, information and assistance during access and transit at stations and for help getting on and off trains. People with disabilities or reduced mobility can request the Adif Acerca assistance service for their journeys through any Renfe ticket sales channel, on the Avlo website when purchasing the ticket and through the Assistance Service app. Tourist trains In addition to the standard train services, there is also a network of over 250 luxury ‘tourist trains’ that span across Spain, offering long distance trips that replicate the train travel of days gone by, stopping off at picturesque, historic places along the way. Many are in classic train carriages from where you can enjoy the views while feasting on first class dining as a pianist reels out the tunes of yesteryear. Examples include The Transcantábrico between San Sebastián and Santiago de Compostela across the region known as ‘Green Spain’, Al-Andalus in the south, which calls at Cadiz, Ronda, Cordoba, Úbeda, Baeza and sights like the Alhambra in Granada, the Strawberry Train (great for weekends in spring and autumn) from Madrid to Aranjuez during which you’ll be plied with strawberries from the region, and La Robla Express, a 3-night trip from Bilbao to Leon stopping at Espinosa de los Monteros, a beautiful town in Las Merindades in Burgos and ending at the Hotel Real Colegiata de San Isidoro de León. While these trips hark back to the glory days of rail, their popularity also heralds a new renaissance of rail that is sweeping across the country. == More information: Here’s a handy map of Spain’s high-speed lines Renfe Luxury Tourist Trains has launched a new website where you can browse and purchase all journeys, see spanishluxurytrain.com For detailed information about train travel worldwide, see seat61.com Tom Chesshyre has written an excellent book about Slow Trains Around Spain (right)

The best thing about train travel is that you can use the time to do something other than stare at the miles of road ahead. You can play cards, read the newspaper or a book, catch up on emails and text, watch a film, enjoy a meal, or just gaze out of the window and enjoy the views of the great British countryside. It’s a great way to cover large distances across the country: you can travel from London to Bristol in less than 80 minutes, from Edinburgh to Birmingham in 4 hours, and from Exeter to London in just over 2 hours. Most railway stations are in city centres, so on arrival you can disembark and quickly reach the heart of the city without the hassle of parking.   Trains are a great way to cover large distances across the country. Photo: Wix Media Railcards and passes   Friends and family railcard Save a third on rail tickets and 60 per cent off children’s fares with the Friends and Family Railcard. It’s valid for up to four adults and four children aged 5–15 (plus you can have two adults named on one card, so if one cardholder isn’t using it, the other can) so long as it’s used after morning peak times. It can also be used for the Caledonian Sleeper and also on some rail/sea journeys with Wightlink and Red Funnel Ferries to stations on the Isle of Wight (as well as Hoverport services to and from Ryde Hoverport), and Stena Line ferries to Ireland – where it’s part of a train and ferry journey ( familyandfriends-railcard.co.uk ).   Two together railcard For adults who travel together, the Two Together Railcard provides one-third off train tickets when those two people travel on the same journey. It can used for both standard or first class tickets after morning peak times, and any time at weekends and on Public Holidays ( twotogether-railcard.co.uk ).   Regional ‘rover’ travel passes If you’re planning to spend a few days travelling by train then regional travel passes can make train travel much more affordable than buying individual tickets. They can often be used in conjunction with bus travel. There are 60 passes in the UK, such as the North of England Rover, which gives you four days unlimited rail travel between Liverpool, Manchester, Leeds and Hull, and the Great West Way Discoverer Pass, which gives you unlimited rail and bus travel along a 125-mile (200-km) touring route between London and Bristol, including Bath, Salisbury and Windsor. The All Line Rover pass provides unlimited rail travel throughout Great Britain for seven or 14 consecutive days, so it’s great for longer journeys. It includes travel on the Ffestiniog Railway as well as the Welsh Highland Railway, and is also valid on the UK’s overnight sleeper services. The GB Rail Rover Guide has information and links to rover tickets available throughout Britain ( railrover.org ).   Buying train tickets National Rail publishes the fares for all rail tickets so there’s no need to shop around for the best price, though there can be a small booking fee that can vary depending on the agent, such as thetrainline.com , raileasy.com , mytrainticket.co.uk and redspottedhanky.com . Agents that don’t add a booking fee include trainsplit.com , railsmartr.co.uk , and the Transport for Wales website ( tfwrail.wales ), which sells tickets for all rail routes in Britain (except sleepers). For every ticket booked on trainhugger.com , they plant a tree in the UK.   Set up a ‘ticket alert’ Rail tickets for are usually released 8–12 weeks ahead of travel, but you can set up a free email ‘ticket alert’ at thetrainline.com/ticketalert to let you know as soon bookings open for your chosen route so you can snap up the cheapest tickets as soon as they become available.

Green Traveller's Guide to taking the train from London St Pancras International Railway Station to Milan, Italy. Important: The Paris–Milan line has been blocked due to a landslide in the French Alps. An alternative route is to go from Paris via Switzerland (changing at Geneva, Lauranne, Basel or Zurich) to Milan. If you leave on one of the early Eurostar departures from London St Pancras you can get to Milan the same day. Update, 2 February 2025: Good news! The Paris-Milan line is to resume on 1 April 2025. Vittorio Emanuele is Italy's oldest shopping centre. Photo: Wix Media Journey Time: from 10 hours 40 minutes Sample timetable: Depart London 9.22am, arrive Milan 9.50pm Changes: 1 Transfer: Paris Gare du Nord to Paris Gare de Lyon Frequency of Departures: 23/day Carbon emissions: 18 .51kg (flight would be 243.9kg)* Train tickets provided by Trainline: Tickets provided by Trainline, which allows you to buy tickets for multiple train operators in multiple European countries. It does charge a small booking fee, but offers several useful facilities, such as a free email alert service to let you know as soon as bookings open for your chosen route so you can snap up the cheapest tickets when they become available. How to book train tickets as part of a package with accommodation If you want someone to book the whole journey for you or combine it with staying in hotels en route, get in touch with the travel agent Byway through its page for booking enquiries . What's the journey like? You have to change stations in Paris from Gare du Nord to Gare de Lyon, which can take about half an hour on the Paris RER line (it's only two stops, though we recommend you leave at least 50 minutes for the entire transfer - you have about an hour and a quarter to get the connection). See our guide to How to transfer between train stations across Paris . At Gare de Lyon, you board a TGV high speed train to 'Milan Centrale' station. Stopover hotels to break the journey in Paris If you want to break the journey and stay overnight to see a bit more of Paris while you're travelling through, there are lots of lovely places to stay near both Gare du Nord and Gare de Lyon. Here are some examples of hotels that are conveniently near these stations: Hotels near Gare du Nord Hotels near Gare de Lyon Miss your connection in Paris? Don’t panic. Railteam’s ‘Hop on the Next Available Train’ service means that if you have missed your connection between high speed trains because of a delay on the preceding leg of your journey, you’ll automatically be put on the next available high-speed TGV train. NB Remember to get your ticket stamped by your Train Manager. Whenever you’re connecting, always remember to validate your onward train ticket at the machine on the platform before departing (these are often coloured yellow). For more overland routes to Italy, see Green Traveller's Flight-Free Train/Ferry Journey Planner On arrival at Milan Centrale station Benvenuto a Milano! If you’re arriving on an international train service, you will probably arrive at Milano Centrale, the city’s main rail terminus – however various intercity services also serve Cardona and Garibaldi stations: all three are connected to Milan’s metro and bus services for onward travel around the city. There are plenty of hotels close to the station, see below: Hotels near Milan's train station (Milan Centrale): Milan has one of Italy’s best developed public transport systems, consisting of a metro network, trams, buses, and a suburban rail system (the latter is unlikely to be of use to visitors). Whilst many of the city centre’s main sights are within walking distance of one another, you’ll probably end up using public transport at some point during your stay. The metro consists of four lines, with a fifth under construction; there are seventeen tram lines crossing the city – trams are emblematic of travel in Milan; and numerous bus services, they are co-ordinated by ATM. You can find maps of the metro and suburban rail network on ATM’s website - see Milan Journey Planner , as well as a breakdown of the different tickets (including useful tickets for tourists), and a journey planner for transport within the Milan urban area. Like many European cities, Milan has a bike sharing scheme, allowing you to hire a bike from numerous points across the city and then return it to a different docking point when you have completed your journey: for more information, and maps, check out BikeMi (information in English). Buon Viaggio! * Data for carbon emissions

Eurostar runs a 'snow train' to the French Alps throughout the winter enabling skiers and snowboarders to take a flight-free route to the slopes in less than 8 hours from London. The good news is that in addition to the usual (generous) luggage allowance on Eurostar (ie up to two bags), you can take on board all your ski luggage (skis, snowboards, boots) for free! The journey from London to Bourg-Saint-Maurice takes just under 8 hours and the return journey is just under 9 hours. It's the fast, convenient, greener way to some of the best French ski resorts in the Alps. Eurostar's snow train departs from London St Pancras and involves a simple same-station platform change at Lille Europe before continuing on to the French Alps. Photo: Eurostar Where does it go?  The Snow Train whizzes straight from London St Pancras through the channel tunnel to Lille (the station is called Lille Europe), where you have a short turnaround (about 30 minutes), crossing the (usually adjacent) platform within the same station to change trains and catch the onward Eurostar service to the heart of the Tarentaise Valley in the French Alps. The onward train stops at Chambéry, Albertville, Moûtiers (the station's full name is 'Moûtiers-Salins-Brides-Les-Bains'), Aime-la-Plagne, and finally Bourg-Saint-Maurice where you can take the 10-minute electric funicular ride up to Les Arcs (Europe's first B Corp ski resort) or take bus transfers to Tignes and Val d'Isere. Which resorts can I get to? See the map below for those resorts that are easily reachable by bus or funicular railway from the main Snow Train railway stations (ie. Moûtiers, Aime-la-Plagne, and Bourg-Saint-Maurice): Transfers to ski resorts Altibus provide transfers from all these stations to the most popular resorts. NB. buying tickets online via Altibus is cheaper than at the station. Tickets and timetables are available at www.altibus.com .  NB. You can take the funicular from Bourg Saint Maurice up to Les Arcs for free if you show the person at the ticket gate your Snow Train ticket. How does it work? The service departs from London St Pancras International Railway Station every Saturday throughout the winter season, from 21st December to 1st March, at 9.01am, arriving at Bourg Saint Maurice at 5.45pm, and returns every Sunday from 29th December and 2 March, departing Bourg Saint Maurice at 8.09am and arriving at London St Pancras at 3.57pm. Don't forget, on your way home, when you arrive at Lille Europe for final train to London you’ll need to go through border control and security before you board the Eurostar train. As the snow train returns on the Sunday, you can fit in an extra days' skiing at the end of the week on the relatively quieter Saturday changeover day (while those flying home will have most likely have already left the resort). Baggage Allowances One of the major attractions of the Eurostar Snow Train is the extended baggage allowance, with no weight restrictions. Each passenger can now take an extra item of luggage on top of the standard 2 cases measuring up to 85cm at their longest length, plus one item of hand luggage. Eurostar have also set aside an area in each carriage dedicated to stowing your large luggage, so you can keep your expensive skis or snowboard close at hand.  Check-in Eurostar recommend that you arrive 60 minutes prior to the Snow Train's scheduled departure time . Just the time necessary to walk to your platform, stow your luggage, and crack open a bottle of French wine to get your holiday underway. Which brings us on to... Food and drink on board There are several options for dining on the Snow Train. If you opt for a 1st class ticket (Eurostar Plus) you can expect a light breakfast, along with drinks, served in your carriage on the Eurostar leg of the journey and also a light lunch on the Lille to Bourg Saint Maurice leg. For those with standard tickets, food is not provided at your seat, but there's a bar-buffet carriage, where you can buy a range of hot and cold meals, as well as snacks and drinks. You can, of course, also take your own food and drink on board, and unlike airlines, Eurostar doesn’t limit the volume of liquids you can carry, so you can take bottles of wine and bubbly. Fares Adult fares start at £99 each way in second class or £149 in 1st class. There are no hidden extras, only the cost of bus or taxi, from whichever railway station you get off at to your ski resort. You can take the funicular from Bourg Saint Maurice up to Les Arcs for free if you show the person at the ticket gate your Snow Train ticket. Tickets provided by Trainline, which does charge a small booking fee, but offers several useful facilities, such as a free email alert service to let you know as soon as bookings open so you can snap up the cheapest tickets when they become available. Arrival times and hotel check-in Bus and taxi journeys from the stations to the resorts take between 30 minutes and a maximum of 2 hours, depending on your resort and the weather conditions (the funicular trip from Bourge St Maurice to Les Arcs takes just 7 minutes). Bon Voyage! Les Arcs 1600. Photo: Richard Hammond

Rhiannon Batten provides a few tips for how to have a green eco escape in Brussels. Standing awestruck in the Grand Place, strolling among graceful Art Nouveau buildings, imagining Tintin chasing round the Comic Strip Centre or politicians debating in the European Parliament. These are perhaps the stereotypical preconceptions of many visitors to the Belgian capital, yet while Brussels may not immediately associated with leafy open spaces, cycles routes or clean air, perhaps it should. Porte de Hal, Hallepoort. Photo: OPT-JP Remy Since the mid-1990s the greater Brussels region has been developing cycle networks, investing in its parks and forests and encouraging the formation of “green continuities” such as the Promenade Verte, a 63km-long pathway for hikers and cyclists that circles the city. It is also in the process of drawing up a regional development plan that should see the creation of sustainable neighbourhoods across the city and an environmentally sensitive redevelopment of the Heysel Plateau, the first time the site has been updated since the 1958 World’s Fair, for which its famous Atomium monument was built. A demand from Brussels’s citizens for more eco-minded facilities has seen a blossoming of sophisticated organic restaurants, ethical shops and other low-carbon businesses over recent years, making its greener side more obvious – and available - to visitors, as well as locals. Practicalities Getting there: For how to travel to Brussels by train from the UK, see our guide to: How to take the train from London to Brussels Getting around the city: From Brussels Midi station, it’s about a 25-minute walk to the city centre. You can also take a tram to the city centre from just outside the station on Rue Couverte, and there are two bike hire stands outside the station that are part of the city’s bike hire scheme known as ‘Villo’, where you can use a bike for free for the first 30 minutes. Thereafter it costs 50 cents for an extra 30 minutes, then €1 for the next 30 mins, then €2 Euros for every subsequent 30 minutes. There is also a handy app ‘AllBikesNow’ for iPhone and Android, see www.en.villo.be . Housestories Apartments Where to stay Housestories : Demonstrating that Brussels has a seriously stylish side, these five Art Deco serviced apartments, in the southwest of the city, are expertly dressed with modern and vintage furniture. Looks aside, there’s also an emphasis on environmental sensitivities; when the owners renovated the apartments in 2009 they did so by following some very stringent eco credentials. Green features include showers and toilets that run off a greywater system, solar panels, high-grade insulation, and a ground-source heat pump. Avenu Besmelaan 107 (+32 473 641 851; www.housestories.be ). Radisson Blu Royal Hotel The 281 rooms at this towering, five-star hotel near the Grand Place are deeply luxurious, with kingsize beds, down duvets and powerful showers. If you sleep easier in surroundings that take environmental sensitivities seriously, you’ll be at peace here. Currently holding a three-star Ecodynamic Enterprise label from the Brussels government for its environmental efforts, the hotel also boasts a Green Key certificate for measures such as energy efficient lighting and a recycling programme that includes donating food, and used furniture and clothing, to charity groups. Rue du Fossé-aux-Loups 47 (+32 2 219 2828; www.radissonblu.com ). Aloft Brussels Schuman The latest brand to join the Starwood Hotels group fold, Aloft hotels are aimed squarely at a younger, socially connected, urban audience. This 147-room branch in the centre of Brussels features rooms with oversized showerheads, free wifi and kingsize beds, a bar that’s home to both a resident DJ and a pool table, a 24-hour “grab and go” cafe and an in-house gym. It’s also Green Key certified, with electricity supplied from renewable sources and rooms cleaned with biodegradable products. Place Jean Rey (+32 2 800 0888; www.aloftbrussels.com ). Sleep Well Hostel Here's somewhere for those that like to do style on a budget. Sleep Well is one of a new breed of hostels providing maximum comfort at minimum prices. Just north of the Grand Place, its 240 beds range from basic but clean dorms with shared facilities to “luxe” versions with en-suite bathrooms and private, B&B-style rooms. Guests also have access to a restaurant, bar, relaxation area and bike hire service. Holding a two-star Ecodynamic Enterprise label for initiatives such 100% green electricity and low-energy lighting the hostel also gives a proportion of its profits to charitable projects. Rue du Damier 23 (+32 2 218 5050; www.sleepwell.be ). Hotel Silken Berlaymont With its location in the businesslike European Quarter and some rather bland modern architecture, this is never going to be the sexiest hotel in Brussels. What it lacks in style, however, the 214-room Silken Berlaymont makes up for in environmental conviction. It’s currently in possession of a two-star Ecodynamic Enterprise label thanks to features such as low-flow showerheads, low-energy lighting and guest packages that include city tours by bike. Don’t miss the hotel’s quarterly photography exhibitions, many of which showcase work by up and coming local artists. 11-19 Boulevard Charlemagne (+32 2 231 0909; www.hoteles-silken.com ). Where to eat Organic fast food There isn’t always time for a sit-down meal when you’re trying to cram in as many of the city’s sights as possible. If you want to fuel up healthily, however, Brussels has plenty of sustainable fast-food options. Current top picks include HopDog, which does a brisk trade in hot dogs made with veggie, organic or free-range ingredients, Cool Bun, which specialises in homemade, organic burgers, and EXKi, a Belgium-based but Europe-wide chain of healthy fast-food restaurants with menus packed with organic ingredients and branches across Brussels, including one store conveniently located in Brussels Midi train station. HopDog, Rue des Fripiers 21 (no phone; www.hopdog.be ); Cool Bun, Rue Berckmans 34 (+32 2 537 8002; www.cool-bun.be ); EXKi in various locations, including Rue Marché aux Herbes 93 (+32 2 502 8248; www.exki.be ). Midi Station As the name suggests, this swanky new restaurant is set just outside Brussels’ Midi station. Owned by Belgian Railways and with culinary journalist Dirk De Prins as general manager, its recipe for regionally inspired cooking, carefully provenanced ingredients (including grass-fed beef from “nose to tail” cooking evangelist and butcher Jack O’Shea, who has a local outlet), over 30 organic or natural wines and beers procured from small local breweries should keep it on the right gastronomic track. Place Victor Horta 26 (+32 2 526 8800; www.midi-station.be ). Trop Bon Open only on weekday lunchtimes, it’s well worth making a detour to this cheerful, homely bistro near Place Flagey. Run by local Slow Food enthusiasts, its small but immaculately assembled daily menu sticks to fresh, seasonal, organic ingredients, cooked from scratch. Dishes range from sophisticated chicken salads to blood sausage served with apple chutney and bulgur salad and polenta served with olives, ewes’ milk cheese and fresh vegetables. Chaussée de Vleurgat 1 (+32 2 640 4057; www.tropbon.be ). Rouge Tomate Sister restaurant to its namesake in New York, Brussels’ Rouge Tomate takes the organic, slow food ethos as far as possible from the socks and sandals brigade, retaining the ethical philosophy but giving it a contemporary, fine dining spin. A member of the Green Restaurant Association, it also subscribes to a nutritional charter called Sanitas Per Escam, or “Health Through Food”; hence the nutritionist employed to work alongside its chefs. Dishes such as glazed venison shank with salsify, radicchio, gingerbread crumbs, root vegetable chips and sauce poivrade can be washed down with a wide choice of organic wines. 190 Avenue Louise (00 32 2 647 7044; www.rougetomate.be ). Les Filles - Plaisirs Culinaires Run by three creative friends, Les Filles is a chic cookery studio in Saint Gilles. With décor that might have been designed by the editors of Elle Decoration, not only does it run courses (for adults and children) and deliver lunches to local offices but it also serves fresh, seasonal, organic meals around a friendly communal table from noon to 2.30pm on weekdays. Menus change daily but expect delicately prepared dishes such as green salad with asparagus, violet radishes, green beans and soft-boiled egg, Moroccan chicken pastilla with fresh mango sauce and “very very” chocolate puddings. There’s also a list of natural wines to choose from. Rue Vanderschrick 85 (+32 2 534 0483; www.lesfillesplaisirsculinaires.be ). Les Filles – Plaisirs Culinaires Where to visit The Magritte Museum A three-storey tribute to the Belgian artist René Magritte, this museum displays over 200 of his works in the neoclassical Hotel Altenloh building. The displays of Magritte’s paintings, drawings, sculptures and posters are as surreal as you would expect from the man who painted The Treachery of Images (Ceci n’est pas une pipe) – though that particular work is not here but at Los Angeles County Museum of Art – but the building is also a showcase for environmentally sensitive design with photovoltaic panels on the roof, 100% green electricity, low energy lighting and windows equipped with solar protection films. Place Royale 1 (+32 2 508 3211; www.musee-magritte-museum.be ). To market Brussels has lots of characterful bustling markets that sell organic honey, cheese, bread, fruit juices and jams direct from local producers. The markets at Place Sainte-Catherine on Wednesdays and, indoors, at the Ateliers des Tanneurs (58-62 Rue des Tanneurs; ateliersdestanneurs.be ) on Wednesdays and Sundays are classic hunting grounds. You’ll also find some organic products on sale among the stalls around Place du Châtelain in Ixelles on Wednesday afternoons. On summer evenings, it’s worth going later, when the selling turns into socialising. Park life Brussels’ 8,500 hectares of parkland, gardens and forest make it one of Europe’s greenest capitals. You don’t have to wander far to find a stretch of trees and grass, from the diminutive Parc de Bruxelles in the city centre to the vast Bois de la Cambre in the south or the manicured Parc du Cinquantenaire in the southeast. One of the most unusual is the Park Maximilien, just north of the Grand Place, which is home to an urban farm complete with vegetable patch, orchard and animals. It’s also equipped with rainwater tanks, greywater systems, a composting site and solar-powered heating. Quai du batelage 2 (+32 2 201 5609; www.lafermeduparcmaximilien.be ). Free entrance, open weekdays only. Brasserie Cantillon Museum of Gueuze Chocolate, waffles and moules frites aside, one of the edible highlights of a trip to Brussels is beer. But go for quality rather than quantity, starting with a visit to the Cantillon brewery. A family-owned business, founded in 1900, Cantillon is the company behind Lambic, Gueuze, Faro and Kriek. All its beers have been made with organic cereals since 1999, using the same age-old processes its founders did. Join a tour here before setting off to explore some of the city’s famous Art Nouveau drinking dens. 56 rue Gheude (+32 2 521 4928; www.cantillon.be ). Regular daily tours, except Sunday; €6 per person, including a glass of beer. Hit the shops You won’t find hairshirts on sale at Halelujah. The sustainable threads here are as high-end in the style stakes as they are ethical, with brands such as Henrietta Ludgate, Goodone, Christopher Raeburn and Freitag producing clothing and accessories that are either made from natural materials or have been upcycled from pre-loved clothes and fabrics. For one-stop ethical shopping, head instead to SuperGreenMe, an eco-focused department store stocking everything from organic beauty brands to clothing, shoes and homewares. Haleluja, 6 Place du Nouveau Marché aux Grains (+32 2 513 4250; www.haleluja.be ); SuperGreenMe, 10, Rue Van Arteveldestraat (+32 2 513 3220; www.supergreenme.be ). What to do Meet the locals For a surefire shortcut into local culture, contact Brussels Greeters and you can enjoy an insider insight into the city steered by a trusted local volunteer. Whether your personal passion is comics, cycling or chocolate, if you contact the team through their website two weeks before your stay they will fix you up with a suitable Greeter to meet you and take you on a free, personalised, two- to four-hour tour of the city. For more information see www.brussel.greeters.be . Boating at Chalet Robinson Go boating Chalet Robinson should be better known outside Brussels than it is. A pastoral idyll within the city limits, it’s a restaurant and bar set in wooden chalet on Robinson Island in the Bois de la Cambre. The closest you’ll get to a country escape without leaving town, all sorts of activities are on offer in the surroundings woods and parkland, from Ultimate Frisbee courses to themed walks, rollerblading tours and bike rides. For true romance, however, hire a rowing boat from the shoreline by the chalet and set off onto the water à deux. Sentier de l’Embarcadère 1, Bois de la Cambre (+32 2 372 9292; www.chaletrobinson.be ). On your bike Local cycling operators Cactus&co and Pro Velo both offer innovative guided cycling tours of Brussels. To get off the beaten cycle path, Cactus&co’s four-hour Undiscovered Brussels ride covers the city’s more offbeat neighbourhoods and architectural attractions while ProVelo runs a whole range of guided and self-guided tours, including several on a green theme that take in some of Brussels’ best parks, gardens and nature reserves. Undiscovered Brussels tours cost from €20pp, including bike hire (www.cactus-co.be). ProVelo tours cost from €17pp per half-day, including bike rental and guiding; self-guided tours can be downloaded, free, from the company’s website www.provelo.org . On foot Find out more about Brussels’ cocoa-dusted heritage by joining a four-hour chocolate themed walking - and tasting - tour of the city. As well as classic outlets such as Wittamer, Neuhaus and Godiva, the route covers small specialist shops such as Pure, in the Grand Sablon, which specialises in organic varieties. It also includes a hands-on workshop with a Master Chocolatier where you’ll learn how to craft your own confections. Too much indulgence? Strap on your trainers instead and join an hour-long, guided “sightjogging” trip around the city. (+32 4793 19003; www.globalenterprises.be ; sightjogging tours 00 32 4716 66424; www.brusselssightjogging.com ) Take the plunge It may not be quite the same as jumping off a boat in Polynesia but the Nemo 33 dive training facility is designed to enable locals and visitors to work on their sub-aqua skills without flying to tropical climes. The closest Brussels gets to Bora Bora, the deepest manmade pool in the world was built using such sustainable building techniques as energy recovery systems and solar panels. The end result is a site that consumes 50% less energy than a traditional swimming pool. +32 2 332 3334; www.nemo33.com . Beginners courses are available. Written by Rhiannon Batten == [Photo credits: Main photo: Porte de Hal, Hallepoort. Copyright: OPT-JP Remy. Small photos, left to right: Housestories Apartments; Les Filles – Plaisirs Culinaires; Brasserie Cantillon, Copyright: Brasserie Cantillon; boating at Chalet Robinson. Train photo and cycling photo: Copyright Eurostar]

There are many ways to travel to and from Ireland without flying, thanks to a variety of train and coach services that link with ferry services across the Irish Sea connecting several ports in England, Wales and Scotland with Irish ferry ports. Our team has tried and tested many of them and so we have tried to summarise all the available options in this post based on our experience. In both Ireland and the UK, there are plenty of options for arriving at ferry terminals by rail and bus and for subsequent onward travel by public transport. Click on the following links to go to the relevant section on this page: Irish Ferries: Pembroke – Rosslare, Holyhead–Dublin Stena Line: Holyhead – Dublin Port, Fishguard – Rosslare, Liverpool – Belfast, Cairnryan – Belfast P&O Ferries: Cairnryan – Larne, Liverpool – Dublin Brittany Ferries: Roscoff – Cork Isle of Man Steam Packet Company: Douglas, Isle of Man to Dublin and Belfast Rail and Sail UK–Ireland Travelling with bikes on trains in the UK and Ireland Public transport connections at ferry port s Travel by train within Ireland Coach Travel between UK-Ireland and within Ireland Important: Due to bad weather causing the current closure of Holyhead Port in early 2025, ferry services between Holyhead and Ireland have been disrupted. They may be alternative routes via Rosslare and Pembroke but you should check with the relevant operator before booking. WB Yeats ferry en route to Dublin. Photo: Irish Ferries Ferries to Ireland There are several ferry options for travelling between the UK and the island of Ireland: you can choose a fast ferry or slow ferry, travel by foot or as a car passenger to Dublin, Cork and Rosslare in the Republic of Ireland, or Larne and Belfast in Northern Ireland. In most cases, when travelling as a foot passenger, you can also buy a ticket which combines 'Rail and Sail' options to Ireland ( see the 'Rail and Sail' section below ). NB the Swansea to Cork ferry no longer runs. Irish Ferries Irish Ferries runs 'slow ferry' services between Pembroke in Wales to Rosslare on Ireland's southeast coast, and between Holyhead in Wales to Dublin Port. Dublin Port is 6km from Dublin city centre. Foot passengers are welcome on most of these crossings. Irish Ferries also has a 'fast ferry' catamaran service, Dublin Swift, on the Holyhead to Dublin route, which takes 2 hours, although it is more prone to cancellation if the weather is choppy, in which case you will be put on the next slower crossing. It is often taken out of service during winter months, with more regular services offered from April onwards. Bikes may be taken on to the ferry at a cost of £10.00 each way, which you can add to your online booking. To buy Irish Ferries tickets to/from Ireland, click on the link below: The large flat-topped rock formation of Benbulben, County Sligo, Ireland. Photo: Tourism Ireland Stena Line Stena Line runs 'slow ferry' crossings from Holyhead in Wales to Dublin Port, from Fishguard in Wales to Rosslare in southeast Ireland, from Liverpool in England to Belfast, and from Cairnryan in Scotland to Belfast, all of which are available for both foot and car passengers. Bikes can be taken on the ferry from £10.00 each way. Choose the option for ‘bicycle’ when you book rather than ‘foot passenger’. There are train stations at Fishguard and Rosslare with easy transfers on to the ferry. Cairnryan is a bit more tricky: take a train to Ayr, then a Stena Line shuttle bus to the port (this is available to passengers who have booked using the 'Sail and Rail' facility on Stena Line’s website - see the 'Rail and Sail' section below). To buy Stena Line ferry tickets to/from Ireland, click on the link below: P&O Offering fast and frequent crossings between Cairnryan in Scotland to Larne in Northern Ireland, as well as between Liverpool and Dublin. The Liverpool-Dublin route does not carry foot passengers, however the Scotland to Ireland services carry both foot and car passengers. If you are bringing a bike, choose ‘bicycle’ option when booking instead of ‘foot passenger’ - there is an additional charge of approximately £9 one-way for cyclists. The Liverpool to Dublin crossing is one of the longest Irish crossings at 8 hours and 30 minutes, with cabins available. Note that all meals are included in the price of the London-Liverpool crossings. To compare P&O crossings with other services, see Direct Ferries on the link below: Ferry tickets provided by Direct Ferries, which allows you to search and compare prices for the different operators and routes from the mainland ports in the UK to Ireland. Brittany Ferries - connecting Ireland and France There are generally two sailings a week between Roscoff in Brittany, France and Cork in the southwest of Ireland. The ‘Cruise’ ferry Pont-Aven goes from Roscoff to Cork on Fridays and does the return Cork to Roscoff on Saturdays. During winter months they also have an ‘économie’ service on board the ‘Connemara’ which is their budget, no-frill service, going from Cork to Roscoff every Monday and doing the return Roscoff to Cork on Tuesdays. The average journey time is 14 hours. Foot passengers are allowed to travel on both these services, and Brittany Ferries carry bicycles for an additional €5 one-way. Choose ‘bicycle’ option at time of booking instead of ‘foot passenger. Note that Brittany Ferries is also launching two new routes in 2020: A ferry between Rosslare, Ireland and Bilbao, Spain launches 28 February 2020 but booking was not open at time of publication. There will also be a new service between Rosslare, Ireland and Roscoff, France in 2020, but dates are still to be confirmed. For the latest on this see the website of Brittany Ferries . Isle of Man Steam Packet Company With frequent and fast crossings between Douglas, Isle of Man to Dublin and Belfast, these services are open to foot and car passengers. You can also bring your bike, free of charge. The Belfast ferry comes into Albert Quay, where you can get a bus to the city centre. See details below for travelling to and from ferry ports. Rail and Sail from the UK to Ireland. Photo: Irish Ferries Rail and Sail to Ireland Both Stena Line and Irish Ferries offer a combined sail and rail package that you can buy online at RailEasy.co.uk . These combined ferry and train tickets allow you to book from some of the UK’s leading mainline stations to Ireland via UK ferry ports of Holyhead, Fishguard or Cairnryan, then on board the ferry to Dublin or Belfast and, last but not least, onwards throughout the island of Ireland to other train stations. All on one neatly packaged ticket. You can, therefore, cover three countries in one day with some of these packages, with price examples as follows: £44.50 one-way from London Euston to Dublin ferry port (with 50% off for 5-15 year olds and 0-4 year olds travel free). You can extend your package to include other UK or Irish train stations but the package prices are only from leading city train stations including Manchester, Leeds, Liverpool and Birmingham. So these stations will add an additional cost but if you book well in advance you can get some good value fares on these legs. There is no option to upgrade with these sail rail fares to Ireland, but one of the distinct advantages of this sail rail package to Ireland is that the fares come at a fixed price which don’t increase with peak travel periods or depending on how far in advance you book. Sail rail tickets travelling from Ireland If you're starting off from Ireland, you can buy one-way rail and sail packages from any train station in Ireland, with tickets collectable at the Irish Ferries travel desk at Dublin Port (or they can post them to you). More info on the website of Irish Ferries . Travelling with bikes on trains in the UK and Ireland It is possible to take bikes on most train services, although restrictions apply so do check with the individual train operator to see what their conditions are. Here are the details for Irish Rail , Northern Ireland Railways , Transport for Wales , Avanti West Coast and Scotrail . You can bring your bike when travelling with a rail and sail ticket to Ireland, but you will need to get a ticket for your bike separately at the train stations and ferry ports. Train from Bray to Greystones Public transport connections at ferry ports There are train stations at most ferry ports (including Holyhead, Liverpool, Pembroke, Roscoff and Rosslare) but here are a few more details below of facilities at some of these and other ports. Dublin: From Dublin Port there is an hourly 53 bus service to various points in Dublin, including Connolly local DART Rail Station. There is also a private coach service which meets the Dublin Port ferries and takes you between Dublin Port and Westmoreland Street in the city centre, as well as Dublin’s Heuston Station. With fares from €2, you can book these in advance online with Ferrylink , or pay on board. For French and UK rail bookings there's Rail Europe , or for Irish ones go to the national rail operator’s website Irish Rail . Belfast: If arriving into Belfast on a Stena Line ferry, you come into Victoria Quay. Take the 96 bus from Upper Queen Street, near Belfast’s City Hall, to the ferry terminal. The return service which meets the ferries at the terminal takes you to Donegall Place in Belfast’s city centre. Single adult cash fare is currently £2 single, children £1 single and you are advised to have cash for this one. On the Isle of Man service into Belfast, you arrive into Albert Quay, and the nearest bus stop/station is at Yorkgate approximately 10 minutes walk from the terminal where you can catch the number 2 bus to Donegall Square in the city centre: Belfast bus timetables . Rosslare: If you arrive into Rosslare ferry port, there are hourly bus services to Dublin and to Waterford. For more information see the national bus operator Bus Eireann . There is also a train station at Rosslare (Rosslare Europort) which is 15 minutes walk from the port. For train times and to book tickets, see Irish Rail . If you take the train from Rosslare, you will have to pay a supplement to take a bicycle on. See Irish Rail for updates on which trains offer bike facilities. Cork: If you are arriving into Cork from Roscoff, France with Brittany Ferries, there is very little in the way of public transport. There are taxis at the ferry port to take you into Cork City which is 19km away. Cairnryan: If you are travelling to and from Cairnryan, you have two options: the nearest train station is at Stranraer, about 6km away by taxi or, if you want to go by bike, it’s about a half hour cycle around the shore of Lough Ryan. However, the easiest is to take a train to Ayr, then a Stena Line shuttle bus to the port. This is available to passengers who have booked using the Sail and Rail facility on Stena Line’s website. Arriving in Northern Ireland, there is an hourly train between Larne port and Belfast Lanyon Place station, and you can put your bike on the train at no extra cost in a designated bike area. Liverpool: Birkenhead Hamilton Square train station is a 15 minutes walk from Stena Line’s ferry terminal (P&O’s ferry from Liverpool doesn’t take foot passengers) and there is no shuttle bus service. However, you can book a taxi in advance, at this very useful website, Train Taxi , which finds taxis for any station in the UK. Roscoff, France: Coming into Roscoff port in Brittany, France, there is a local rail and bus service from Roscoff to Morlaix, where you can pick up higher speed trains to other parts of France. Exploring the Gleniff Horseshoe, County Sligo. Photo: Tourism Ireland Travel by train within Ireland Irish Rail (Iarnród Éireann) In the Republic of Ireland trains are operated by the national rail company, Irish Rail , with a network spreading across the country to cities such as Sligo, Galway, Cork, Westport, Tralee, Waterford and Limerick. The DART (Dublin Area Rapid Transport) is a service local to Dublin, popular for visiting one of the capital’s nearby beauty spots as it runs along the coast of Dublin Bay, from Howth in north County Dublin to Bray, just south of Dublin in County Wicklow. Bicycles may now be taken on to these trains, although only at certain times. There are two central stations in Dublin: Heuston station which generally serves the west, and Connolly Station, which serves the north and southeast. The Luas tram service connects both stations, travelling on the Red Line. For visitors travelling with bikes, you can take them free of charge on most services outside peak travel times. You need to reserve a bike space on intercity services, however, which you can do at the end of your booking on Irish Rail’s booking facility. For more information on bikes on Irish Rail, click here. Another useful website is Rail Users Ireland , a dynamic organisation which campaigns for better rail services in Ireland. If you are considering the train and bus as your main forms of transport while travelling around Ireland, it is worth considering one of Irish Rail’s Explorer or Trekker passes . They vary in price depending on the length of your stay in Ireland. Child Explorer tickets are half the price of adult tickets. For one-off trips, families should request a family ticket, which is valid for one or two adults and up to four children less than 16 years. There is no charge for under fives. Northern Ireland Railways: Within Northern Ireland, the train network includes places of visitor interest such as Bangor, County Down, Derry and Portrush on the Antrim Coast, as well as Larne for incoming ferry services from Scotland. There are five main stations in Belfast, and services vary out of each. They are Lanyon Place, Botanic (for Belfast’s Botanic Gardens and Ulster Museum), City Hospital, Gt. Victoria Street and Yorkgate. There is a fast and frequent service between Belfast and Dublin known as The Enterprise, which serves Dublin’s Connolly Station and Belfast’s Lanyon Place station. For more details of Northern Ireland’s train and bus services, see Translink . Bicycles are carried free of charge on all Northern Ireland Railway services, including the cross-border Enterprise service, and the train meeting the ferries coming into Larne. There is no reservation system, and they will be carried on a first-come first-served basis. InterRail tickets: If you are travelling across Europe using a Global InterRail Pass, or an InterRail One Country Pass for Ireland , this can, of course, be used throughout Ireland. The Ireland Pass also entitles you to a discount on most ferry crossings with Irish Ferries and Stena Line. The Luas tram system: Dublin’s light railway or tram system opened in 2004, and is known as the Luas, which is Irish for light. There are two Luas tram lines; the Red line and the Green line covering 67 stations. The Red Line runs east to west through the city centre from Connolly station to Heuston station, continuing towards south Dublin, and terminates in the suburb of Tallaght. The Green Line runs from St.Stephen’s Green in the city centre out to Sandyford Industrial Estate on the south side of the city. Children under three travel free of charge, and young people up to the age of fifteen (or students in possession of a student card) can buy a child’s fare. Only fold-up bicycles can be carried on the Luas, and there are bike racks at nearly all Luas stops. The Luas is not only a great way of travelling between the city’s main stations but also for reaching places of interest such as The National Museum at Collins Barracks, The Guinness Storehouse, the Irish Museum of Modern Art or Kilmainham Gaol. Tickets can be bought at machines at every Luas stop. Also available are Flexi Tickets, which allow travel to all zones across the Red and Green Lines. The Leap card: Save up to 30% on some public transport services in Ireland with a prepaid Leap Card, which you can use on buses, trams and local train services. Read more at Leap Card . Travel by coach to and within Ireland Flixbus: This international coach network is a relatively cheap and efficient way to travel by coach between the UK and Ireland. You board the coaches in cities and then travel on the coach on the ferry for crossing the Irish Sea. One of the biggest advantages of travelling by coach is that you are taken directly to the city centre, so no worries about transfers, taxis or trailing luggage. Tickets from Dublin to London are currently from £48.99 one way. Eurolines: Another European-wide coach network is a cheap and efficient way to travel by bus between the UK and Ireland . They offer services between several UK towns and cities to/from Dublin, Belfast and Cork, with connections with many other Irish towns. Bus Eireann: Ireland’s leading coach service, Bus Eireann , has services to many towns and villages with great value tickets. You can also buy an Open Road Tourist Pass, which allows you unlimited travel on all of Bus Eireann’s services. The main coach station in Dublin is Bus Arás, located on the Red Line of the Luas on the north side of the River LIffey near Connolly railway station. Ulsterbus : Northern Ireland’s extensive coach service accesses a lot of rural areas, as well offering its Goldline service - an express intercity service. North and eastbound services from Belfast depart from Laganside Bus Centre - south and west depart from the Europa Bus Centre. Times and fares are available from Translink , an organisation which has integrated Northern Ireland’s public transport facilities, and provides information on one website. Their journey planner is an excellent way of working out which form of transport you need to take from one place to another. Bicycles are carried free of charge if the bus has a boot and space is available. Fold-up bicycles can be carried at any time on-board the vehicle. Read more on the very useful website Cycle NI . Portmagee, County Kerry. Photo: Tourism Ireland ============ Please note : The information on this page aims to give you a reasonable idea of train and ferry routes, times and tickets, in order that hopefully there’s enough detail to know what's available, how to plan a journey and where to book tickets. The information was up to date at time of publication, but services do change from time to time and we cannot take responsibility for any errors or inaccuracies we provide. Always confirm details when you book with the relevant travel operator. This feature was first compiled in 2014 and since then it has been updated annually. The most recent update was done in October 2023, but if you are aware of any inaccuracies, we'd really appreciate being informed via our contact page so we can make the relevant changes to the information provided for the benefit of other travellers.

Green Traveller's Guide to taking the train from London St Pancras International Railway Station to Zürich Hauptbahnhof, Switzerland. Aerial view of Zurich. Photo Switzerland Tourism/Daniel Loosli It is possible to travel from London to Zürich in less than seven and a half hours if you take the Eurostar to Paris Gare du Nord then change to Gare de Lyon and catch the high-speed train to Zürich. Renowned for its quality of life and cultural offer, Zürich is Switzerland’s largest city with a thriving international business scene. With panoramic Alpine views from its lakeside position, Zürich offers a relaxed, healthy outdoor lifestyle combined with a buoyant restaurant and nightlife scene (over 1,500 restaurants offer cuisine from around the world), and a vast number of museums and galleries. A university city with a history dating back before the Romans, Zürich is at once young and ancient – and it wears its past proudly in its architectural heritage. Whether you come for the culture, the lifestyle, or just for business, there is plenty to enjoy in this dynamic city. Train routes from London connecting with TGV Lyria rail services in Switzerland: Flight-free travel from London to Zürich: Journey Time: from 7 hours 25 mins Sample timetable: Depart London 11.31am, arrive Zürich 8.26pm Changes: 1 Transfer: Paris Gare du Nord to Paris Gare de Lyon Frequency of Departures: 16/day Carbon emissions: 4.96 kg (flight would be 123.19kg)* Tickets provided by Trainline, which allows you to buy tickets for multiple train operators in multiple European countries. It does charge a small booking fee, but offers several useful facilities, such as a free email alert service to let you know as soon as bookings open for your chosen route so you can snap up the cheapest tickets when they become available. How to book train tickets as part of a package with accommodation If you want someone to book the whole journey for you or combine it with staying in hotels en route, get in touch with the travel agent Byway through its page for booking enquiries . What's the journey like? You have to change stations in Paris from Gare du Nord to Gare de Lyon, which can take about half an hour on the Paris RER line (it's only two stops, though we recommend you leave at least 50 minutes for the entire transfer - you have about an hour and a quarter to get the connection). See our guide to How to transfer between train stations across Paris . At Gare de Lyon, you board a TGV high speed train to 'Zürich Hauptbahnhof' station. Stopover hotels to break the journey in Paris If you want to break the journey and stay overnight to see a bit more of Paris while you're travelling through, there are lots of lovely places to stay near both Gare du Nord and Gare de Lyon. Here are some examples of hotels that are conveniently near these stations: Hotels near Gare du Nord Hotels near Gare de Lyon Miss your connection in Paris? Don’t panic. Railteam’s ‘Hop on the Next Available Train’ service means that if you have missed your connection between high speed trains because of a delay on the preceding leg of your journey, you’ll automatically be put on the next available high-speed TGV train. NB Remember to get your ticket stamped by your Train Manager. Whenever you’re connecting, always remember to validate your onward train ticket at the machine on the platform before departing (these are often coloured yellow). For more overland routes to Switzerland, see our Flight-Free Train/Ferry Journey Planner On arrival at Zürich station Willkommen in Zürich! Zürich Hauptbahnhof is the city’s main point of arrival for mainline and international rail services, and is one of the world’s busiest railway stations. A hub of S-bahn, tram, bus, and trolley lines, it is well connected for travel across the rest of the city, and its central location at the northern tip of the old town puts the station within easy walking distance of much of central Zürich. Hotels near Zurich Train Station (Zurich HauptBahnhof) Despite being Switzerland’s largest city, Zürich remains a compact, manageable place and the central area is very walkable – your feet could be your best option for getting around. However, its (renowned) dense and comprehensive public transport system means that if you want or need to make a hop by bus, trolley, tram, or s-bahn (suburban rail), it’s definitely possible. Zürich's trams, trolleybuses and buses are operated by VBZ (Verkehrsbetriebe Zürich), but whilst the S-bahn railway network is separately run, the same tickets, travelcards and fares apply across the city’s transport network – which is collectively known as ZVV. The ZVV website has a map of the Zürich area’s train network, with bus and boat connections, a detailed map of all transport in the city of Zürich and a useful Zürich public transport journey planner . If you’ll be using public transport a lot and intend to visit several of the city’s museums and attractions, it might be worth considering buying a Zürich Card for the duration of your stay – it offers unlimited travel as well as free entry into most museums, and a range of other offers and discounts. You could also consider cycling in Zürich as a way of getting around: relatively compact and with good segregated bike lanes, the city has a bike sharing scheme called Züri Velo that allows you to borrow bikes for a small charge - you have to register with the scheme and then you can see in your customer account how much each ride cost and the amount that was debited from your credit card. Gute Reise! * Data for carbon emissions

Green Traveller's Guide to taking the train from London St Pancras International Railway Station to Valence, France. Photo: Richard Hammond It is possible to travel from London to Valence in less than five and a half hours if you take the Eurostar from London St Pancras to Paris Gare du Nord then change to Paris Gare de Lyon to catch the train south to Valence. Between the French Alps and the Massive Central, Valence is the gateway to Provence. It might easily be overlooked in favour of the nearby cities of Lyon and Avignon, but if you venture to this historic, chilled-out city, in the heart of La Drome region, you're in for a treat. Flight-Free travel from London to Valence: Journey Time: from 5 hours 23 minutes Sample timetable: Depart London 11.04am, arrive Lyon 5.00pm Changes: 1 Transfer: Paris Gare du Nord to Paris Gare de Lyon Frequency of Departures: 17/day Carbon emissions: 40 .5kg (flight would be 221.4kg)* Tickets provided by Trainline, which allows you to buy tickets for multiple train operators in multiple European countries. It does charge a small booking fee, but offers several useful facilities, such as a free email alert service to let you know as soon as bookings open for your chosen route so you can snap up the cheapest tickets when they become available. How to book train tickets as part of a package with accommodation If you want someone to book the whole journey for you or combine it with staying in hotels en route, get in touch with the travel agent Byway through its page for booking enquiries . What's the journey like? You have to change stations in Paris from Gare du Nord to Gare de Lyon, which can take about half an hour on the Paris RER line (it's only two stops, though we recommend you leave at least 50 minutes for the entire transfer - you have about an hour and a quarter to get the connection). See our guide to How to transfer between train stations across Paris . At Gare de Lyon, you board a TGV high speed train to Valence station. Stopover hotels to break the journey in Paris If you want to break the journey and stay overnight to see a bit more of Paris while you're travelling through, there are lots of lovely places to stay near both Gare du Nord and Gare de Lyon. Here are some examples of hotels that are conveniently near these stations: Hotels near Gare du Nord Hotels near Gare de Lyon Miss your connection in Paris? Don’t panic. Railteam’s ‘Hop on the Next Available Train’ service means that if you have missed your connection between high speed trains because of a delay on the preceding leg of your journey, you’ll automatically be put on the next available high-speed TGV train. NB Remember to get your ticket stamped by your Train Manager. Whenever you’re connecting, always remember to validate your onward train ticket at the machine on the platform before departing (these are often coloured yellow). On arrival at Valence station Bienvenue à Valence! There are plenty of hotels in the centre of the city, see below: Hotels in Valence Like an increasing number of French cities, Valence has its own government-funded bike hire scheme: in Valence it's called 'Libelo'. There are 20 stations throughout the city where you can access the bikes. A 1 Euro charge and a 150 Euro deposit will give you access the bikes for 1 day, with additional charges if you use the bike for more than 2 and a half hours. A whole day with one bike will cost approximately 6 Euros. Libelo Bike Scheme . Valence and the surrounding area have an excellent public transport network on coaches and buses, with 38 regular lines. Information and timetables are available from Tourist Offices or tel 08 10 26 26 07 or visit CTAV Valence Bus Map to plan a journey. For more information about where to stay and things to do, see our Green Travel Guide to Valence . Bon Voyage! See our Flight-Free Train/Ferry Journey Planner * Data for carbon emissions