"Happy is the man who before dying had the good fortune to travel the Aegean sea," wrote Nikos Kazantzakis in Zorba the Greek. And while the image that comes to mind of the archipelago to the east of Greece's mainland is often one of white and blue houses and stark stone outcrops, there's a warmer and wilder set of islands waiting to be discovered to the north. Lesvos and Chios are a treasure trove of history and natural beauty, of untouched landscapes, azure waters and a very friendly welcome in ancient stone villages. April to October is still the liveliest time to visit, yet both islands are real, busy communities and rewarding to explore year-round.