As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Gozo, Yvonne Gordon picks out a selection of places to eat, from traditional bakeries to scenic restaurants and food tours.
Gozo has an abundance of fresh produce and a variety of traditional dishes, from the pizza-like ftira bread, often topped with sliced potatoes, to Ġbejniet, the small round cheese made from goat’s or sheep’s milk and eaten either fresh or dried.
For a scenic, waterside location choose to eat at Xlendi Bay, Mgarr Harbour or Marsalforn, or for something more traditional try the tiny streets of the old Citadel in Gozo’s capital, Victoria.
The local bakeries come alive in the mornings – drop in to see some fresh ftira or qassatat pies coming out of the wood-fired ovens.
Tatitas
Tatitas is in a lovely setting with pavement-side tables on the main cobbled square (pjazza) in the tiny village of San Lawrenz in Gozo. The emphasis is on Maltese/Mediterranean cuisine, with fresh fish delivered daily. Specialities include grilled lobster, steak and home-made local goat’s cheese ravioli. facebook.com/tatitas2
Ta' Rikardu
A traditional restaurant tucked away in one of the tiny streets of the historic fortified Citadel in Victoria, traditional delicacies on the menu here include rabbit stew, and fresh and dried Ġbejniet (sheep and goat’s cheeselets). These are made by the restaurant owner Rikardu Zammit in his cheeseroom nearby, with goat and sheep’s milk from his farm. Rikardu also has a vineyard and the wine from here is served in the restaurant. 4 Triq il-Fosos, Cittadella, Victoria, Gozo
Il-Kartell
Set on the water’s edge at the quieter end of the seafront at Marsalforn, Il-Kartell has lovely views over Marsalforn Bay and offers a variety of local and Mediterranean cuisine using traditional Gozitan recipes. A plate of mixed local antipasto will come with both fresh sheep cheeselets and peppered cheeselets (Ġbejniet). Other traditional dishes include rabbit and stuffed aubergine, and there’s a wide selection of fresh fish. The restaurant’s eco policy includes the goal of a zero mile product. kartellrestaurant.com
Il-Kcina Ghawdxija
There’s a feast of Gozitan dishes on the menu here, from Ġbejniet t'Għawdex Moqlija (deep fried Gozo sheep’s cheese glazed with honey) to spaghetti with rabbit sauce, Gozitan rabbit stew or a selection of fresh fish. Try the Ftira – the traditional pizza bread topped with Ġbejniet and potatoes. Traditional desserts include Imqaret – pastry filled with dates – followed by the traditional ‘cooked coffee’. facebook.com/Il-Kcina-Ghawdxija
Ta’ Mena
Set in an old farmhouse surrounded by views of the countryside, Ta’ Frenc is the place to go for a special dining experience. As well as an à la carte menu, there’s a three-course ‘market menu’ and three six-course tasting menus, Earth, Sea and Vegetarian, which all feature the best produce from the local market, farms and the restaurant’s herb garden. Chickens, quails and rabbits are reared especially for the restaurant, bread is baked in house and salt come from the local salt pans. After dinner, try one of the herbal infusions from the herb garden instead of coffee. The restaurant also has olive trees and plans to press its own olive oil. tafrenc.mt
Tmum Mgarr
Set right on Mgarr harbour, the main harbour in Gozo, fresh fish is a big feature at Tmum Mgarr, with an array of fish on display, which can either be grilled or cooked al cartoccio (baked in a packet). Local swordfish and calamari are regulars on the menu, as well as chicken, duck, quail and veal. innana.wixsite.com/tmun
Maxokk Bakery
The ftira from this family-run bakery, which has been running since the 1930s, is one of the best on the island. It’s cooked in an old brick oven, used with dry wood (usually oak) and they also specialise in pizzas with local ingredients. maxokkbakery.com
Mekren’s Bakery
Drop in here early in the morning to see the wood-fired oven being loaded up with trays of ftira or qassatat – while locals queue in the centre and point to the bread or ftira they’d like – as well as the tasty produce, you get a great flavour of local culture. Try the ftira with Ġbejniet cheese and potatoes or a pea-filled qassatat pie. Hanaq Street, Nadur
Tal-Furnar
This is a bakery and also a restaurant – their takes on the traditional ftira include fresh fruit and honey ftira and they also do gluten-free ftiras and Qassatat tal-Ghid – pies with mature Gozo cheese. 136, Gnien Xibla Str Xaghra
Ta’ Mena
At Ta’ Mena you can get a taste of Gozitan countryside and farming life. The estate has vineyards, a fruit garden, an orange grove and an olive grove, from where they press their own cold pressed extra virgin olive oil. A small shop sells these plus traditional liqueurs and foods – the sundried tomato paste is recommended. Small groups can book in for a guided tour of the estate, a wine or food tasting session and a light lunch, and there are also free walking tours of the estate twice daily. tamena-gozo.com
Tal-Massar Winery
This winery was founded in 1934 and has adopted an organic programme including the elimination of herbicides and non-organic insecticides. Weekly wine tasting sessions (Tuesdays and Saturdays) in the vineyard allow guests to meet the wine maker and vine cultivator, Anthony, and you can also try some Gozitan finger foods along with four different wines. tal-massarwinery.business.site
Magro Food Village
You can see local food-making and crafts here. Watch the rivers of tomatoes being processed in the tomato plant, or see traditional Gozitan cheeselets being made in the dairy. At the artisan food-making section you can see everything from oils and vinegars being bottled to fruit jam s and cakes, and sample some delicacies along the way. Tours take an hour and are free of charge, starting at 9.45am, 11am and 12.15 (booking is necessary). You can also book cooking classes and lectures (check website for prices). magro.com.mt/tours
For information on local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities, see our
