Kasbah du Toubkal

For contact details see greentraveller's full listing of Kasbah du Toubkal

The stunning mountain view of the Kasbah du Toubkal, Atlas Mountains, Morocco

On the drive up through the Imlil Valley into the foothills of the Atlas Mountains, you have an unerring sense that you’re going somewhere special. The road passes rose-coloured adobe villages and fields terraced with ancient irrigation channels that nourish apple, cherry and walnut orchards. As you swing around steep-sided bends, you get short-lived glimpses of the looming massif at the head of the valley, and by the time you reach the end of the road at the mountain village of Imlil – just 65km from Marrakesh – you know you’re in another world. The light is brighter, the air is thinner, the streets are empty, and the jagged peaks resplendent against the sky.

An Aladdin's Cave: The Kasbah's magical candle-lit dining roomThe Rooms
Run and staffed by Berbers, the Kasbah calls itself a “hospitality centre” rather than a hotel, so expect wide, yellow-toothed grins, pots of mint tea on your arrival and jellabahs (long-sleeved robes) and leather babouches (traditional leather slippers) to slip into. The rooms have been furnished by Berber craftsmen using local materials and range from basic communal salons (often used by school groups - see below right) to comfortable private double rooms and one lavish, three-bedroom apartment.

For travellers on a budget: the saloon rooms at the Kasbah

Green Accommodation
The Kasbah is managed and staffed by local Berber people in partnership with British-owned Discover Ltd, a relationship which has flourished since 1978. The Kasbah provides employment for local mountain guides, income for local producers and a 5% levy goes towards community projects organised by the local Imlil Valley Association. The Kasbah has raised £50,000 to help build a village hammam and donated an ambulance to the village. According to Discover Ltd's managing director Mike McHugo, "the interest in the Kasbah has shown both the locals and the government that the region's environment is worthy of appropriate protection and development and that what they have achieved can be duplicated in other rural areas of Morocco".

The Activities
Guests come on day-trips from the capital to dine on tagines on the large rooftop terrace, from where there are sweeping views of the mountains and valley. But you’ll need to stay here for a few days to make the most of the spectacular setting. You can hire a guide and climb Mount Toubkal in a day, then return to the hammam (steam bath) and dine in the Kasbah’s restaurant. 

The wonderful walk over the valley to the Kasbah's sister accommodation, Toubkal LodgeTop Tip
October is a great time to go to the Atlas Mountains - the heat of the summer has gone but it's still warm enough to sit out on the wonderful rooftop. If you're there for a few days, don't miss the four-hour trek to Toubkal Lodge in the Berber village of Idissa, which overlooks wheat fields in the Azzadene Valley. Its three double rooms are similar in style to the plush apartment at the Kasbah, and are designed for just a handful of guests to use a base for day-hikes in the mountains or as part of an overnight circular walking route from the Kasbah du Toubkal. And if you don’t fancy the four-hour trek over the mountain pass from the Kasbah to the village, you can ride in on horseback or go by mountain bike.

Verdict
The stunning scenery, the unrivalled hospitality of the Berbers and the gradual upgrading of apartments has meant that the Kasbah has become the premier mountain retreat in Morocco. I've been back three times to the Kasbah - at New Year (when I climbed up Mount Toubkal), at Easter, and in October (when I trekked over to the sister accommodation, Toukbal Lodge, the week it opened). Expect first class service in a first class setting. 

For contact details see greentraveller's full listing of Kasbah du Toubkal.

The above review contains information extracted from the book Richard co-wrote (with Jeremy Smith): Clean Breaks - 500 new ways to see the world (Rough Guides, £18.99).