Green places to stay
Review of Gregans Castle Hotel, County Clare, Ireland
> For contact details, availability and booking, see greentraveller's full listing of Gregan's Castle Hotel.

“At Gregans Castle Hotel, we strive to minimise our footprint on the environment”, says the welcome pack in The Galway Bay Suite. It is not hard to see why, when you look out the window onto one of the most unique landscapes in Ireland. This is the Burren, one of Ireland’s most celebrated National Parks. Simon and Frederieke, the owners, are more than aware of the privileged position they hold, high up in a valley of this extraordinary limestone landscape. The interior design of each room or suite is individual, yet always majestic. The colours seem to be inspired by the view beyond each window. Purple greys for the heathers, lichen greens, soft creamy whites and pinks of the alpine flowers and soft greys of the flat stones spreading out for miles around them. It is fitting, therefore, that the majority of paints used are natural.
Simon and Fred do not play Lord and Lady of the manor, which many might be tempted to, as owners of such an exquisite mid-century house. They are leaders in the community, taking a strong stance on sustaining the Burren, as well as the livelihoods of those who live there. Most importantly, the farmers. The hotel is a member of the Burren Beef and Lamb Producers Group and has committed to sourcing all such meat locally. Likewise, the chef buys all the smoked fish, salads, eggs and cheeses from small Burren producers.
It is also one of the first luxury hotels of this standard in Ireland, to pursue the EU Flower green certification scheme. They have started with a natural peat moss water treatment plant, cleaned by coppiced Scarlet Willow. There is a wood pellet boiler in the staff accommodation, with a further one for guests planned in 2010. Eight bicycles are available for visitors, and their neighbour, a local guide, archaeologist, local historian and farmer, gives daily walking tours across the Burren. These are not just grand gestures from the grand house. It has been the family's ethos since they opened. That is why there are no tellies in the rooms, “for uninterrupted views of the stunning landscape”. Thank goodness, they are doing their bit to protect it.
Top tip
Visit the Burren Perfumery, where you can take a free tour of the plant-based, all natural, organic herb garden, with culinary, medicinal and cosmetic herbs on show. This place is an aromatic arena of simple beauty. There is an audiovisual slideshow about the Burren and its flora, after which you can tuck into many of the Perfumery’s fine organic cuisine in its tea rooms. Herbal tea is, of course, a must. The tea rooms are open daily March until September, and at weekends in April.
Don't miss a trip out to the world famous Cliffs of Moher, where the visitor centre has been concealed underground, not to detract from the natural magnificence all around. Not that anything can upstage the Cliffs. They are simply breathtaking. Avoid the coachloads and go at the end of the day, and walk there if possible. Gregans will give you the best walking or cycling routes.
Verdict
Perfect (if pricey) romantic weekend territory. Great beds, with linen to die for, and amazing collection of organic wines to celebrate love and life. The best of The Burren – don’t just stop here one night en route to County Kerry. Worth a long weekend break in its own right.
Getting there
Take the train or bus to Galway, then there’s a choice of two buses, one to Ballyvaughan village (5km from Gregans), or the Galway to Doolin bus passes the front gate of Gregans. There are two of these a day, and one in winter.
For contact details, availability and booking, see greentraveller's full listing of Gregan's Castle Hotel.
Catherine is the author of ecoescape: Ireland, £8.99 (+£1.50 p&p)





















