Review of Chleire Haven Yurt Camp, Cape Clear, Ireland

> For contact details and to check availability, see our full listing of: Chleire Haven Yurt Camp

Wake up to the gentle sound of the water at Chleire Haven. Photo: Catherine Mack

The accommodation
A small campsite with yurts and tipis, set up by Sally Davies and Dave Calvert who discovered the joys of Cape Chleire on a holiday a few years ago, and never left. It was love at first ‘site’, and they have succeeded in sharing the love with other happy campers in an upmarket, but not uptight, way. The yurts, raised on wooden platforms, are spacious, with double bed and fold out sofa bed (both with copious bedding), beanbags, a coffee table, a cooker, cool box and, like all good yurts, are well insulated cosy cocoons. All you need is a towel although you can hire one on site if you forget. Or drip dry in front of the wood burning stove, all set and ready to go when you arrive. Although do check with the owners on this, as not all the yurts have them in summer months. The tipis are more basic, with slim camping mattresses and rugs, so bring your own sleeping bags and everything else. You may also bring your own tents, but spaces are limited so ring to check.

The locationKids love running and playing in the large open space. Photo: Catherine Mack
This is the first Yurt campsite in Ireland and boy did they pick the right site to start one. Located on a clifftop on this stunning island just off Ireland’s south west coast, Cape Clear (Chleire in Irish) is worth the trek. It is only three miles long by 1 mile wide, a forty five minute ferry journey from the mainland’s Baltimore. As we walk around the bay and look back at our yurt perched majestically on its cliff, its white canvas reflecting the sunlight, my young son says that the view is “like one of those posters saying, Come To Greece.” The Med it ‘aint, but this is as close to paradise as I have come recently. 

The activities
This is an island for walking and chilling. Despite the island’s small but perfect size, there is plenty to see on a morning expedition. The landscape is hilly and varied, with heritage highlights such as megalithic standing stones, a 5000 year old passage grave, a 12th Century church ruin and a 14th Century castle. There’s plenty of living culture too at the café/shop in the harbour, An Siopa Beag, where local people and tourists gather for cappuccinos, ice creams, great homemade food, or just to watch boats come and go. You can also hire sea kayaks from islander Paula (Tel: 00 353 (0) 85 2029094), or ask Sally and Dave for directions. Don't forget to visit the Heritage Museum, or if you are more a mariner, the Maritime Museum. 

Take a stroll to the harbour and watch the boats come and go. Photo: Catherine MackI have visited some islands where local people turn their backs on tourists, but everyone here was friendly, full of stories, and wanting to hear ours. We sat sunning ourselves at the tables outside An Siopa Beag, while the kids played on the beach beside us with welcoming local children, popping up over the harbour wall now again to wolf the delicious pizzas. An important way to embrace local culture was to down a few at the very welcoming Cotters Pub too. Would have been rude not to, really. Hot whisky after an evening dip is the way to go. 

The Green
Sally and Dave are very committed to ethical practices, with solar powered shower rooms (installed because they use 40% less water), recycling, good advice on restricting water (a major island issue), and they maintain the site in an ecologically sound way. You can’t get a much greener holiday than this anyway, as you can’t bring your car on the ferry, and you can get everything you need on the island in terms of food so you are supporting a couple of local businesses as well.

The Journey
Take the bus to Baltimore and the ferry to Cape Clear from the harbour. Return fares, adults €16 children €8, family of four €40. The island’s Bus Chléire meets the ferry and drops you and your bags wherever you want, for €2. For more information about travelling to Ireland by ferry, see our guide to How to travel to Ireland without flying.

Top Tips
Go whale watching off Baltimore at the beginning or end of your trip, with Whale Watch West Cork led by marineYou'll never want to leave with a view like this on your doorstep. Photo: Catherine Mack conservationist Nic Slocum, and committed lobbyist for responsible whale watching practices. Also a brilliant head for knowledge of local marine species. Even bigger tip, head to Cape Clear out of season. Although it never gets totally overrun, having this place all to yourself is such a magical way to see it. 

The Verdict
We stayed for two nights, and wish we had come for a week. The scenery here is so spectacular it stops you in your steps, and the people so friendly and open, there is always another story to hear. Which is perhaps why Cape Clear’s International Storytelling Festival in September has become a world renowned event. But you can come and swap stories here anytime, and no better place to start than in a warm, felt-lined yurt, with the soundtrack of the Atlantic in the distance, and natural lighting from the moon and stars. The Irish Tourist Board should look no further for its next photo shoot. This one’s a diamond in its emerald crown. 

 For contact details and to check availability, see our full listing of: Chleire Haven Yurt Camp