Tandem to the Pyrenees

Two wheels, four legs. Photo: Holly GeeI was skeptical and a little nervous when my boyfriend first announced his interest in buying a tandem. A bicycle for two conjures up images of 1940s musicals, worryingly active over 65 year olds or forgotten fads rusting in garages. Not only did Nick want to buy a tandem, he wanted to use it, lots, in public, with me on the back of it. I gradually came around to the plan when I worked out that the alternative of joint cycling trips would involve me slogging away independently, miles behind Nick, and sitting on the back of a bicycle sounded like a fantastic tanning opportunity. And so it wasn't long before Nick snapped up a bargain on eBay and we were merrily cycling through London on our second hand Dawes tandem.

The thing that first attracted Nick to the concept of the tandem was that we would be able to, and had to, cycle together. The tandem is a shared pleasure. After all, the initial purpose of a tandem was more to do with this sharing of pleasure than anything else; it was invented as a means pick up young ladies in the surrounding villages. It is not surprising they were designed a little differently back then. I'm sure 19th Century ladies would be horrified at having to stare at their lovers sweaty backside all day. Having done a few practice runs in London parks and weekend tandeming breaks in the UK, much to the bewilderment of friends and family, two years ago we set out on our first big trip. In three weeks we traveled from London to St Jean Pied de Port in the Pyrenees, which is thankfully at the foot of the mountains. 1600km on the back of a tandem and I was sold for life.

Chateau of The Loire. Photo: Holly Gee

Despite the slightly less desirable design elements of looking at your partner's bottom all day, the tandem remains a great way to explore places together. When riding a tandem obeying the laws of teamwork is essential and a lesson learned rather quickly since any form of disagreement in what way you are going will generally result in toppling over. This also avoids the frustrations of one person waiting for the other to catch up whilst the other feels increasing despondent about their inferior leg power. You are working together, can talk amongst one another, have to go the same way and the laws of physics suggest that you will go faster than on two separate bikes – the strength of four legs but the same wind resistance as that of two. By plotting a route that largely follows cycle paths and river valleys, it is possible to stay mostly on flat ground all the way from Dieppe to The Dordogne. The ease of the landscape means that you can take your time and by loading the tandem with four panniers and a tent perched on the back you have everything you need to be as flexible as you like. On this trip we cycled between 3 – 6 hours a day, stopping at villages that took our fancy for coffees, snacks and lunch, camping when we'd had enough of being on the bike and stopping at some places for two nights to explore on foot when it suits.

Quiet, winding roads of The Dordogne. Photo: Holly GeeDetails of the route: From Dieppe we rode down the Avenue Verte for 40km South to Forges-les-Eaux, a disused railway track that has been paved for cyclists lined with big old crumbling farm houses and orchards. At Forges-les-Eaux we picked up small roads following the River Eure through riverside villages and woodland until we spied the 12th and 16th Century spires of Chartres Cathedral. After stopping to absorb some culture in Chartres, we spent a day cycling through France's industrial farming plains where the road cuts straight through crops that stretch as far as the eye can see. Hungry for prettier roads we joined the Loire river at Blois, whose castle is famed for spanning 4 centuries worth of architecture, and followed the river past perfectly manicured chateaus, vineyards and sunflowers all the way to Chinon. From the castles, wine and brocantes of Chinon we followed The Vienne river to the Medieval town Chauvigny and from there we weaved our way into the Dordogne, through back roads littered with rustic country mansions. Once we had mastered some of the hills of The Dordogne we followed the river from Ste Foy le Grande through to St Emillion, world heritage sight and particularly good feasting and wine territory. On leaving The Dordogne we continued further into the forests of Aquitaine to Bazas, a few thermal spa towns and then coast before it was time to climb up the breathtaking (and a little back breaking) foothills of The Pyrenees to St Jean Pied de Port.

Whilst these places could have easily been seen by car or camper van, being on a tandem changes how you experience the country you are passing through. The lack of engine and main roads makes you considerably more at one with the surrounding environment, leaving birds and other wildlife undisturbed and in full view as you pedal pass; we saw endless numbers of birds of prey, woodpeckers, herons, egrets, pheasants, red squirrels and kingfishers. The lack of closed windows and doors also makes you an unintimidating and intriguing traveler, open to interactions with complete strangers wherever you are. Throughout France the tandem was welcomed in with open arms. We even got welcomed into people's homes for nights of French cooking, wine and debate!

Tandem hire and info in UK: www.tandem-club.org.uk, www.tandems.co.uk

Tandem hire and info in France: www.veloloco.com/bike-rental/bikes.php#tandem

Cycle routes: If the prospect of some good old fashioned map reading doesn't float your boat then the French and English governments are doing their bit to persuade you to hop on a bike nonetheless.  To achieve the full potential for environmentally-friendly tourism and travel, the project partners are working together to complete a joined-up network of safe and attractive cycle routes and greenways (mainly car-free routes for people of all abilities to use on foot, bike or horseback), of which the Tour de la Manche (a circular cycle route that follows the south coast of England and the northern coast of France) and the Avenue Verte London-Paris form the main schemes. 

For more fantastic cycling holidays in France (though not on a tandem!), see: Cycling Holidays in France